i. 



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^r.lwV .'r,?/ y;-;-::-, . ,. : 







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LIONS PULLING DOWN GIRAFFE. 



LAIE NGAMI 



OK, 



EXPLORATIONS AND DISCOVERIES 



DURING 



FOUR YEARS' WANDERINGS IN THE WILDS 



OF 



SOUTHWESTERN AFRICA. 



BY 



CHARLES JOHN ANDEESSON. 



WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS, 

REPRESENTING SPORTING ADVENTUPvES, SUBJECTS OF NATURAL HISTORY, 
DEVICES FOR DESTROYING WILD ANIMALS, &C. 



NEW YORK: 

II A R P E E & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 

FRANKLIN SQUATxE. 

1861. 



h^\ 




Misses Ida and Sara S. Qiinp»on 
14 1928 



/ If^^f 



PREFACE. 



The following Narrative of Explorations and Dis- 
coveries during four years in the wilds of the south- 
western parts of Africa contains the account of two ex- 
peditions in that continent between the years 1850 and 
1854. In the first of these journeys, the countries of 
the Damaras (previously all but unknown in Europe) 
and of the Ovambo (till now a terra incognita) were 
explored; in the second, the newly-discovered Lake 
Ngami was reached by a route that had always been 
deemed impracticable. It is more than probable that 
!]iis route (the shortest and best) will be adopted as the 
one by which commerce and civilization may eventual- 
ij find their way to the Lake regions. 

The first journey was performed in company with 
Mr. Francis Galton, to whom we are indebted for a 
work on '* Tropical South Africa ;" on the second the 
Author was alone, and altogether dependent on his own 
very scanty resources. 

It was suggested to the Author, as regards the first 
journey, that, from the ground having been preoccu- 
pied, it would be best for him to commence where his 
friend left off. There was some reason for this ; but, 
on mature consideration, he deemed it desirable to start 
fi:om the beginning, otherwise he could not have given 



IV PREFACE. 



a connected and detailed account of the regions he vis- 
ited. Moreover, from the Author having remained two 
years longer in Africa than Mr. Galton, he has not only 
been enabled to ascertain the truth respecting much 
that at first appeared obscure and doubtful, but has had 
many opportunities of enlarging the stock of informa- 
tion acquired by himself and friend when together. 
Besides, they were often separated for long periods, 
during which many incidents and adventures occurred 
to the Author that are scarcely alluded to in " Tropical 
South Africa." And, lastly, the impressions received 
by different individuals, even under similar circum- 
stances, are generally found to vary greatly, which, in 
itself, would be a sufficient reason for the course the 
Author has decided on pursuing. 

As will be seen, the present writer has not only de- 
scribed the general appearance of the regions he visited, 
but has given the best information he was able to col- 
lect of the geological features of the country, and of its 
probable mineral wealth ; and, slight though it may be, 
he had the gratification of finding that the hints he 
threw out at the Cape and elsewhere were acted upon, 
that mining companies were formed, and that mining 
operations are now carried on to some extent in regions 
heretofore considered as utterly worthless. 

The Author has also spoken at some length of the 
religion, and manners, and customs of such of the na- 
tive tribes (previously all but unknown to Europeans) 
visited by him during his several journeys. He also 
noted many of their superstitions, for too much atten- 
tion, as has been truly observed, can not be paid to the 
mythological traditions of savages. Considerable dis- 



PREFACE. 



cretion is, of course, needful in this matter, as, if every 
portion were to be literally received, we might be led 
into grievous errors ; still, by attending to what many 
might call absurd superstitions, we not only attain to a 
knowledge of the mental tendencies of the natives, but 
are made acquainted with interesting facts touching the 
geographical distribution of men and inferior animals. 

Since the different members constituting the brute 
creation are so intimately connected with the economy 
of man, and since many of the beasts and birds indige- 
nous to those parts of Africa visited by the Author are 
still but imperfectly known, he has thought it advisable 
to enter largely into their habits, &c., the rather as nat-" 
ural history has from childhood been his favorite pur- 
suit, and is a subject on which he therefore feels con- 
versant ; and though part of what he has stated regard- 
ing the rhinoceros, the hippopotamus, the koodoo, the 
ostrich, and others of the almost incalculable varieties 
of animals found in the African wilderness may be 
known to some inquirers, it is still hoped that the gen- 
eral reader will find matter he has not previously met 
with. 

The larger portion of the beautiful plates to be found 
in this work (faithfully depicting the scenes described) 
are by Mr. Wolf—" the Landseer of animals and vege- 
tation," to quote the words of the Earl of Ellesmere in 
a note which his lordship did me the honor to write to 
me. 

The Author has endeavored in the following pages 
faithfully, and in plain and unassuming language, to 
record his experiences, impressions, feelings, and im- 
pulses, under circumstances often peculiarly trying. 



VI PREFACE. 



He lays claim to no more credit than may attach to an 
earnest desire to make himself useful and to further 
the cause of science. 

It is more than probable that his career as an ex- 
plorer and pioneer to civilization and commerce is term- 
inated ; stiU he would fain hope that his humble exer- 
tions may not be without their fruits. 

When he first arrived in Africa, he generally traveled 
on foot throughout the whole of the day, regardless of 
heat, and almost scorning the idea of riding on horse- 
back, or using any other mode of conveyance ; indeed, 
he was wont to vie with the natives in endurance ; but 
now, owing to the severe hardships he has undergone, 
his constitution is undermined, and the foundation of a 
malady has been laid that it is feared he will carry with 
him to the day of his death ; yet such is the perverse- 
ness of human nature that, did circumstances permit, 
he would return to this life of trial and privation. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Departure from Sweden. — Day-dreams. — Fraternal Love,— A tempt- 
ing Offer. — Preparations for Journey to Africa. — Departure from 
England. — Arrival at the Cape. — Town and Inhabitants. — Table 
Mountain. — Curious Legend. — Preparation for Journey into the 
Interior. — Departure for Walfisch Bay Page 19 

CHAPTER 11. 
Arrival at Walfisch Bay. — Scenery. — Harbor described. — Want of 
Water. — Capabilities for Trade. — Fish. — Wild-fowl. — Mirage. — 
Sand Fountain. — The Bush-tick. — The Naras. — Quadrupeds 
scarce. — Meeting the Hottentots. — Their filthy Habits. — The 
Alarum. — The Turn-out. — Death of a Lion. — Arrival at Schepp- 
mansdorf. — The Place described. — Mr. Bam. — Missionary Life. — 
Ingratitude of Natives. — Missionary Wagons 29 

CHAPTER in. 

Preparations for Journey. — Breaking-in Oxen. — Departure from 
Scheppmansdorf. — An infuriated Ox. — The Naarip Plain. — The 
scarlet Flower. — The Usab Gorge. — The Swakop River. — Tracks 
of Rhinoceros seen. — Anecdote of that Animal. — A Sunrise in the 
Tropics. — Sufferings from Heat and Thirst. — Arrival at Daviep : 
great resort of Lions. — A Horse and Mule killed by them. — The 
Author goes in pursuit. — A troop of Lions. — Unsuccessful Chase. — 
Mules' flesh palatable 44 

CHAPTER IV. 

The Gnoo and the Gemsbok. — Pursuit of a Rhinoceros. — Venomous 
Fly. — Fruit of the Acacia nutritious. — Sun-stroke. — Crested Parrot. 
— A Giraffe shot. — Tjobis Fountain. — Singular Omelet. — Nutritious 
Gum. — Arrival at Richterfeldt. — Mr. Rath and the Missions. — The 
Damaras : their Persons, Habits, &c. — Lions Troublesome. — Panic. 
— Horse Sickness 56 



VIU CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER V. 

Hans Larsen. — His Exploits. — He joins the Expedition. — How people 
travel on Ox-back. — Rhinoceros Hunt. — Death of the Beast. — 
*' Look before you Leap." — Anecdote proving the Truth of the Prov- 
erb. — Hans and the Lion. — The Doctor in Difficulties. — Sufferings 
on the Naarip Plain. — Arrival at Scheppmansdorf Page 68 

CHAPTER VI. 

Return to Scheppmansdorf. — Training Oxen for the Yoke. — Sporting. 
— The Flamingo. — The Butcher-bird : curious Superstition regard- 
ing it. — Preparing for Journey. — Servants described 76 

CHAPTER Vn. 

Departure from Scheppmansdorf. — Cattle refractory at starting. — 
Tineas. — Always travel by Night. — Rhinoceros Hunt. — The Au- 
thor in danger of a second Sun-stroke. — Reach Onanis. — A Tribe 
of Hill-Damaras settled there. — Singular Manner in which these 
People . smoke. — Effects of the Weed. — The Euphorbia Candela- 
brum. — Remarkable Properties of this vegetable Poison. — Guinea- 
fowl: the best Manner of shooting them. — Meet a troop of Gi- 
raffes. — Tjobis Fountain again. — Attacked by Lions. — Providential 
Escape. — Arrival at Richterfeldt 83 

CHAPTER Vni. 

A hearty Welcome. — ^We remove the Encampment. — An Apparition. 
— Audacity of wild Beasts. — Depriving Lions of their Prey. — Ex- 
cessive Heat. — Singular effects of great Heat. — Depart for Barmen. 
— Meet a troop of Zebras. — Their flesh not equal to Venison. — The 
Missionary's Wall. — A sad Catastrophe. — The " Kameel-Doorn." — 
Buxton Fountain. — The Scorpion. — Arrival at Barmen 95 

CHAPTER EX. 

Barmen. — Thunder-storm in the Tropics. — A Man killed by Light- 
ning. — Warm Spring. — Mr. Hahn : his Missionary Labor ; Seed 
sown in exceeding stony Ground. — The Lake Omanbonde. — Mr. 
Galton's Mission of Peace. — The Author meets a Lion by the way ; 
the Beast bolts. — Singular Chase of a Gnoo. — "Killing two Birds 
with one Stone." — A Lion Hunt. — The Author escapes Death by a 
Miracle. — Consequences of shooting on a Sunday 106 



CONTENTS. IX 

CHAPTER X. 

A Christmas in the Desert. — Mr. Galton's Return from the Erongo 
Mountain. — He passes numerous Villages. — Great Drought ; the 
Natives have a Choice of two Evils. — The Hill-Damaras. — The Da- 
maras a Pastoral People. — The vi^hole country Public Property. — 
Enormous herds of Cattle. — They are as destructive as Locusts to 
the Vegetation. — Departure from Richterfeldt. — The Author kills 
an Oryx. — The Oxen refractory, — Danger of traversing dry "Water- 
courses on the approach of the Rainy Season. — Message from the 
Robber-chief Jonker. — Emeute among the Servants. — Depart for 
Schmelen's Hope Page 119 

CHAPTER XI. 

Schmelen's Hope. — Scenery. — Missionary Station. — Raid of the Na- 
maquas. — Ingratitude of the Natives. — Jonker's Feud v^^ith Kahi- 
chene ; his Barbarities ; his Treachery. — Mr. Galton departs for 
Eikams. — Author's successful sporting Excursions. — He captures a 
young Steinbok and a Koodoo. — They are easily domesticated. — 
Hyaenas very troublesome ; several destroyed by Spring-guns. — The 
latter described. — Visit from a Leopard ; it wounds a Dog ; Chase 
and Death of the Leopard. — The Caracal 126 

CHAPTER XII. 

Wild-fowl abundant.— The Great Bustard.— The Termites.— Wild 
Bees. — Mushrooms. — The Chief Zwartbooi. — Return of Mr. Galton. 
— He makes a Treaty with Jonker. — He visits Rehoboth. — Misdo- 
ings of John Waggoner and Gabriel. — Change of Servants. — Swarm 
of Caterpillars. — A reconnoitring Expedition. — Thunder-storm. — 
The Omatako Mountains. — Zebra-flesh a God-send. — Tropical Phe- 
nomenon. — The Damaras not remarkable for Veracity. — Encamp 
in an Ant-hill. — ^Return to Schmelen's Hope. — Preparations for vis - 
iting Omanbonde 135 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Depart from Schmelen's Hope. — Meeting with Kahichene. — Oxen 
Stolen. — Summary Justice. — Superstition. — Meeting an old Friend. 
— Singular Custom. — Gluttony of the Damaras. — How they eat 
Flesh by the Yard and not by the Pound. — Superstitious Cus- 
tom. — A nondescript Animal. — The Author loses his Way. — Rav- 
ages of the Termites. — "Wait a bit, if you please." — Magnificent 
Fountain. — Remains of Damara Villages. — Horrors of War. — 

A 2 



X CONTENTS. 

Meet Bushmen. — Meet Damaras. — Difficulties encountered by Af- 
rican Travelers. — Reach the Lake Omanbonde. — Cruel Disappoint- 
ment Page 146 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Omanbonde visited by Hippopotami. — Vegetation, &c., described. — 
Game somewhat scarce. — Combat between Elephant and Rhinoce- 
ros. — Advance or Retreat. — Favorable reports of the Ovambo-land. 
— Resolve to proceed there. — Reconnoitre the Country. — Depart 
from Omanbonde. — Author shoots a Giraffe. — Splendid Mirage. — 
The Fan-palm. — The Guide absconds. — Commotion among the 
Natives. — Arrive at Okamabute. — Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt. — 
Vegetation. — Accident to Wagon. — Obliged to proceed on Ox-back. 
— The Party go astray. — Baboon Fountain. — Meeting with the 
Ovambo ; their personal Appearance, &c. — Return to Encampment. 

— An Elephant killed. — Discover a curious Plant. — Immorality. 
—Reflections 162 

CHAPTER XV. 

Depart from Okamabuti. — Visit from a Lion. — Amulets. — Revisit 
Baboon Fountain. — Otjikoto ; a wonderful Freak of Nature ; Re- 
markable Cavern. — Natives unacquainted with the Art of Swim- 
ming. — Fish abundant in Otjikoto ; frequented by immense Flocks 
of Doves. — Panic of the Ovambo on seeing Birds shot on the Wing. 

— Arrive at Omutjamatunda. — A greasy Welcome. — Ducks and 
Grouse numerous. — Author finds himself somewhat "overdone." — 
"Salt-pans." — All "look Blue." — A second Paradise. — Hospitable 
Reception. — Vegetation. — People live in Patriarchal Style. — Popu- 
lation. — Enormous Hogs. — Arrive at the Residence of the redoubt- 
able Nangoro 178 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Visit from Nangoro. — His extreme Obesity. — One must be fat to wear 
a Crown. — His non-appreciation of Eloquence. — Singular Effects 
of Fireworks on the Natives. — Cure for making a wry Face. — Ball 
at the Palace. — The Ladies very attractive and very loving. — Their 
Dress, Ornaments, &c. — Honesty of the Ovambo. — Kindness to the 
Poor. — Love of Country. — Hospitality. — Delicate manner of Eat- 
ing. — Loose Morals. — ^Law of Succession, — Religion. — Houses. — 
Domestic Animals. — Implements of Husbandry. — Manner of Tilling 
the Ground. — Articles of Barter. — Metallurgy 190 



CONTENTS. XI 

CHAPTER XVn. 

The Eiver Cunene. — The Travelers are Prisoners at large. — Kingly 
Revenge. — Kingly Liberality. — Depart from Ondonga. — Sufferings 
and Consequences resulting from Cold. — Return to Okamabuti. — 
Damara Women murdered by Bushmen. — Preparations for Jour- 
ney. — Obtain Guides. — Depart from Tjopopa's Werft. — Game abun- 
dant. — Author and three Lions stalk Antelopes in Company. — Ex- 
traordinary Visitation. — The Rhinoceros's Guardian Angel. — The 
Textor Erythrorhynchus. — The Amadina Squamifrons ; singular 
Construction of its Nest. — Return to Barmen Page 204 

CHAPTER XVHL 

The Damaras. — Whence they came. — Their Conquests. — The Tide 
turns. — Damara-land only partially inhabited. — -Climate. — Sea- 
sons. — Mythology. — Religion. — Superstitions. — Marriage. — Poly- 
gamy. — Children.— Circumcision. — Bury their Dead. — Way they 
mourn. — Children interred alive. — Buri&l of the Chief, and Super- 
stitions consequentlthereon.— Maladies. — Damaras do not live long; 
the Cause thereof.— Food.-^-Music and Dancing. — -How^ they swear. 
— Power of the Chieftain limited.— Slothful People. — Numerals. — 
Astronomy .TT-Domestic Animals ; their Diseases. 214 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Dispatch a Messenger to Cape-Town. — Depart from Barmen. — Eik- 
hams.— Eyebrecht.-^Depart from Eikhams.— Elephant Fountain. — 
Tunobis. — Enormous quantities of Game. — Shooting by Night at 
the " Skarm." — The Author has several narrow Escapes. — Checked 
in attempt to reach the Ngami. — The Party set out on their Return. 
— Reach Elephant Fountain. — How to make Soap. — Pitfalls. — A 
night Adventure.:^GamB scarce. — Join Hans. — The Party nearly 
poisoned.- — Arrival at Walfisch Bay. — A tub Adventure. — Extraor- 
dinary Mortality among the Fish. — Author narrowly escapes Drown- 
ing.-^Arrival of the Missionary Vessel. — Letters from Home. — Mr. 
Galton returns to Europe.r— Reflections 229 

CHAPTER XX. 

Capture of young Ostriches. — Natural History of the Ostrich ; where 
found ; Description of ; Size ; Weight ; Age ; Voice ; Strength ; 
Speed ; Food ; Water ; Breeding ; Incubation ; Cunning ; Stones 
found in Eggs ; Chicks ; Flesh. — Brain in request among the Ro- 
mans. — Eggs highly prized. — Uses of Egg-shells. — Feathers an ar- 



Xll CONTENTS. 

tide of Commerce. — Ostrich Parasols. — The Bird's destructive Pro- 
pensities. — Habits. — Resembles Quadrupeds. — Domestication. — 
The Chase. — Snares. — Ingenious Device. — Enemies of the 
Ostrich Page 247 

CHAPTER XXI. • 

Sudden Floods. — John Allen's Sufferings. — Hans and the Author en- 
ter into Partnership. — Young Grass injurious to Cattle. — Depart 
from Walfisch Bay. — Attractive Scenery. — Troops of Lions. — Ex- 
traordinary Proceedings of Kites. — Flight of Butterflies. — Attach- 
ment of Animals to one another. — Arrival at Richterfeldt ; at Bar- 
men. — Hans's narrow Escape. — Self-possession.— Heavy Rains. — ■ 
Runavv^ay Ox ; he tosses the Author. — Depart from Barmen. — Dif- 
ficulty of crossing Rivers. — Encounter great numbers of Oryxes. 264 

CHAPTER XXII. 

The Oryx ; more than one Species. — Where found. — Probably known 
in Europe previous to the discovery of the Passage round the Cape 
of Good Hope. — Description of the Oryx. — Gregarious. — Speed. — 
Food. — Water not necessary to its existence. — Will face the Lion. 
— Foi-midable Horns. — Their Use. — Flesh. — The Chase of this 
Animal 272 

CHAPTER XXIII. 

Arrival at Eikhams. — Native Dogs ; cruelly treated. — Jonker Afrika- 
ner. — The Author visits the Red Nation ; the bad Repute of these 
People. — The Author attacked by Ophthalmia. — The embryo Lo- 
cust. — The "flying" Locust; its Devastations. — The Locust-bird. 
— Arrival at Rehoboth ; the Place described 277 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Return to Eikhams. — Ugly Fall. — Splendid Landscape. — Jonker's De- 
linquencies. — How to manage the Natives. — The Ondara. — It kills a 
Man. — How his Comrade revenges him. — Medical Properties of the 
Ondara. — The Cockatrice. — The Cobra di Capella, — The Puff-ad- 
der. — The Spitting Snake. — The Black Snake. — Few Deaths caused 
by Snakes. — Antidotes for Snake-bites. — Return to Rehoboth.. 287 

CHAPTER XXV. 

The Author's Tent takes Fire. — He loses every thing but his Papers. 
— He is laid on a bed of Sickness. — Want of Medicine, &c. — Re- 
flections. — Whole Villages infected with Fever. — Abundance of 



CONTENTS. Xlll 

Game. — Extraordinary Shot at an Ostrich. — A Lion breakfasts on 
his Wife. — Wondei'ful shooting Star. — Remarkable Mirage. — Game 
and Lions plentiful. — The Ebony-tree. — Arrival at Bethany, a 
Missionary Station. — The Trouble of a large Herd of Cattle. — A 
thirsty Man's Cogitation. — Curious Superstition. — The Damara Cat- 
tle described. — People who live entirely without Water. — Cross the 
Orange River. — Sterile Country Page 299 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

Great Namaqua-land. — Its Boundaries and Extent. — Its Rivers. — Na- 
ture of the Country. — Vegetation and Climate. — Geological Struc- 
ture. — Minerals. — "Topnaars" and " Oerlams." — Houses. — My- 
thology and Religion. — Tumuli. — Wonderful Rock. — Curious Le- 
gend of the Hare. — Coming of Age. — The Witch-doctor. — Amu- 
lets. — Superstitions. — A Namaqua's notion of the Sun. — Marriage. 
— Polygamy. — Children. — Barbarous Practice. — Longevity. — Sin- 
gular Customs. — Ornaments. — Tattooing. — Arms. — Idle Habits. — 
Fond of Amusements. — Music and Dancing. — Spirits. — Mead. — 
Domestic Animals 311 

CHAPTER XXVII. 
Leave the Orange River. — Arrival at Komaggas. — Gardening and 
Agriculture. — The Author starts alone for the Cape. — Colony 
Horses. — Enmity of the Boers to " Britishers." — Dutch Salutation. 
— The Author must have been at Timbuctoo, whether or no. — He 
arrives at Cape-Town. — Cuts a sorry figure. — Is run away with. — 
A Feast of Oranges. — Ghost Stories. — Cattle Auction. — Hans and 
John Allen proceed to Australia. — Preparations for Journey to the 
Ngami. — Departure from the Cape 325 

CHAPTER XXVni. 

Arrival at Walfisch Bay. — Atrocities of the Namaquas. — Mr. Hahn. — 
His Philanthropy. — Author departs for Richterfeldt. — Shoots a 
Lion. — Lions unusually numerous. — Piet's Performances with Li- 
ons. — The Lion a Church-goer. — Barmen. — Eikhams. — Kamapyu's 
mad Doings and Consequences thereof. — Kamapyu is wounded by 
other Shafts than Cupid's. — Author visits Cornelius ; here he meets 
Amral and a party of Griqua Elephant-hunters. — Reach Rehoboth. 
— Tan's Mountain. — Copper Ore. — Jonathan Afrika. — A Lion sups 
on a Goat. — A Lion besieges the Cattle 339 



XIV CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

Dispatch Cattle to the Cape. — Terrible Thunder-storm. — Trees struck 
by Lightning. — The Nosop River. — A Comet. — The Author nearly 
poisoned. — Some of the Men abscond; they return to their Duty. — 
Babel-like confusion of Tongues. — Game abundant. — Author shoots 
a Giraffe. — Meet Bushmen. — Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt. — Suffer- 
ings from Hunger. — Tunobis. — Game scarce. — Author and Steed 
entrapped, — Pitfalls. — The Men turn sulky. — Preparations for de- 
parture from Tunobis. — Vicious Pack-oxen. — Consequences of ex- 
cessive Fatigue.^ — The Jackal's handiwork. — Tracks of Elephants. 
— More Pitfalls. — Loss of the Anglo-Saxon Lion and the Swedish 
Cross. — Reach Ghanze * Page 351 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Ghanze. — Spotted Hysena. — The Rhinoceros. — Where found. — Sev- 
eral Species. — Description of Rhinoceros. — Size. — Appearance. — 
Age. — Strength. — Speed. — Food. — Water. — The Young. — Affec- 
tion. — Senses. — Disposition. — Gregarious. — Indolence. — Domesti- 
cation. — Flesh. — Horns. — The Chase. — Mr. Oswell's Adventures 
with Rhinoceroses. — A Crotchet. — Where to aim at the Rhinoce- 
ros. — Does not bleed externally when wounded. — Great numbers 
slain annually ,. 368 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

Departure from Ghanze. — Nectar in the Desert. — ^Difficulty in finding 
Water. — Arrive at Abeghan. — Unsuccessful Chase. — A " Charm." 
— How to make the undrinkable drinkable. — An Elephant wounded 
and killed. — Bold and courageous Dog. — Kobis. — Author seized 
with a singular Malady. — Messengers dispatched to the Chief of the 
Lake Ngami. — A large troop of Elephants. — Author kills a huge 
Male. — Lions and Giraffe. — Author's hair-breadth Escapes : from a 
black Rhinoceros ; from a white Rhinoceros ; from two troops of 
Elephants ; he shoots a couple of his Adversaries. — Where to aim 
at an Elephant 386 

CHAPTER XXXIL 

Timbo's Return from the Lake ; his Logic ; he takes the Law in his 
own Hands. — Calf of Author's Leg goes astray. — A troop of Ele- 
phants. — Author is charged by one of them, and nari'owly escapes 
Death. — He shoots a white Rhinoceros. — He disables a black Rhi- 
noceros. — He is charged and desperately bruised and wounded by 



CONTENTS. XV 

the latter. — He saves the Life of his Attendant, Kamapyu. — Author 
again charged by the Rhinoceros, and escapes Destruction only by 
the opportune Death of his Antagonist. — Reflections. — He starts for 
the Ngami Page 402 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

Start from Kobis. — Meet Bechuanas. — False Report. — Wonderful 
Race of Men. — The Baobob-tree. — The Ngami. — First Impressions 
of the Lake. — Reflections. — Experience some Disappointment. — 
Reach the Zouga River and encamp near it. — Interview with Chief 
Lecholetebe. — Information refused. — Immoderate Laughter. — Pres- 
ents to the Chief. — His Covetousness. — His Cruelty. — Formidable 
Difficulties. — Author permitted to proceed northward 413 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

The Ngami. — When discovered. — Its various Names. — Its Size and 
Form. — Great Changes in its Waters. — Singular Phenomenon. — The 
Teoge River. — The Zouga River. — The Mukuru-Mukovanja River. 
— Animals. — Birds. — Crocodiles. — Serpents. — Fish 423 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

The Batoana. — Government. — Eloquence. — Langua:ge. — Mythology. 
— Religion. — Superstition. — The Rain-maker. — Polygamy. — Cir- 

- cumcision. — Burial. — Disposition of the Bechuanas. — Thievish Pro- 
pensities. — Dress. — Great Snuff'-takers. — Smoking. — Occupations. 
— Agriculture. — Commerce. — Hunting and Fishing 436 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Departure for Libebe. — The Canoe. — The Lake. — Reach the Teoge. 
— Adventure with a Leche'. — Luxurious Vegetation. — Exuberance 
of animal Life. — Buffaloes. — The Koodoo. — His Haunts. — Pace. 
— Food. — Flesh. — Hide. — Disposition. — Gregarious Habits. — The 
Chase ; 456 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Tsetse Fly. — Confined to particular Spots. — Its Size. — Its Destructive- 
ness. — Fatal to Domestic Animals. — Symptoms in the Ox when 
bitten by the Tsetse 468 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

The Crocodile. — ^An Englishman killed by one of these Monsters. — 
The Omoroanga Vavarra River. — Hardships. — Beautiful Scenery. 
— ^Lecholetebe's Treachery. — The Reed-ferry 471 



XVI CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

The Bayeye. — Their Country ; Persons ; Language ; Disposition ; Ly- 
ing and Pilfering Habits. — Polygamy practiced among the Bayeye. 
— Their Houses ; Dress ; Ornaments ; Weapons ; Liquors ; Agri- 
culture ; Gi'ain ; Fruits ; Granaries. — Hunting. — Fishing. — Nets. — 
Diseases. — The Matsanyana. — The Bavicko. — Libebe Page 476 

CHAPTER XL. 

Departure from the Bayeye Werft. — The Reed-raft. — The Hippopota- 
mus. — Behemoth or Hippopotamus. — "Where found. — Two Species. 
— Description of Hippopotamus. — Appearance. — Size. — Swims like 
a Duck. — Food. — Destructive Propensities of the Animal. — Disposi- 
tion. — Sagacity. — Memory. — Gregarious Habits. — Nocturnal Habits. 
— Domestication. — Food. — Flesh. — Hide. — Ivory. — Medicinal Vir- 
tues 485 

CHAPTER XLI. 

The Bayeye harpoon the Hippopotamus. — ^The Hai-poon described. — 
How the Chase of the Hippopotamus is conducted by the Bayeye. 
— How it was conducted by the ancient Egyptians. — The Spear 
used by them. — Ferocity of the Hippopotamus. — Killed by Guns. — 
Frightful Accident.— The Downfall 495 

CHAPTER XLH. 

Return to the Lake. — The Author starts for Namaqua-land to procure 
Wagons. — Night Adventure with a Lion.— Death of the Beast. — 
Sufferings of the Author 506 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page 

LIONS PULLING DOWN GIRAFFE To face Title. 

MALAY 24 

VIEW OF WALFISCH BAY 30 

DAMAKAS 63 

HILL-DAMARA PIPE 89 

THE LUCKY ESCAPE 117 

SHOOTING-TRAP 132 

FAN-PALM 167 

OVAMBO PIPE 174 

OVAMBO DAGGER AND SHEATH 174 

OVAMBO BASKET FOR MERCHANDISE. 174 

OTJIKOTO FOUNTAIN 180 

INTERVIEW WITH KING NANGORO 191 

OVAMBO BEER-CUP AND BEER-SPOON 193 

OVAMBO GUITAR 193 

OVAMBO 195 

OVAMBO MEAT-DISH 197 

OVAMBO DWELLING-HOUSE AND CORN-STORES 200 

VIEW IN ONDONGA 201 

OVAMBO BLACKSMITHS AT WORK 203 

UNWELCOME HUNTING COMPANIONS 211 

DAMARA GRAVE 224 

JONKER AFRIKANER. 232 

WILD boar's HEAD 233 

COURSING YOUNG OSTRICHES 249 

ORYX OR GEMSBOK 273 

SKULL OF A BECHUANA OX 308 

dacre's pulpit 333 

negro boy 338 

pitfalls 361 

heads of rhinoceroses 371 

horns of rhinoceros oswellii 372 



XVlll ILLUSTEATIONS. 

Page 

rCETUS OF RHINOCEROS KEITLOA 376 

THE APPROACH OF ELEPHANTS 398 

MORE CLOSE THAN AGREEABLE 4:06 

DESPERATE SITUATION 409 

NAKONG AND LECHE 432 

THE BECHUANA PICHO 438 

ASCENDING THE TEOGE 461 

TSETSE FLY 468 

THE REED-FERRT 476 

BATETE 481 

MEDAL 498 

HIPPOPOTAMUS HARPOON 496 

THE REED-RAFT AND HARPOONERS 497 

THE SPEAR 498 

EGYPTIANS AND HIPPOPOTAMUS 500 

THE SPEAR 501 

THE REEL 501 

THE DOWNFALL 505 

AUTHOR AND STEED BROKEN DOWN 510 

SIGNAL STATION AT CAPE-TOWN 511 



LAKE NGAMl 



CHAPTER I. 

Departure from Sweden. — Day-dreams. — Eraternal Love. — A tempt- 
ing Offer. — Preparations for Journey to Africa. — Departure from 
England. — Arrival at the Cape. — Town and Inhabitants. — Table 
Mountain. — Curious Legend. — Preparation for Journey into the 
Interior. — Departure for Walfisch Bay. 

It was at the close of the year 1849 that I left Gothen- 
bourg, in a sailing vessel, for Hull, at which place I arrived 
in safety, after a boisterous and somewhat dangerous pas- 
sage of about fourteen days' duration. Though a Swede by 
birth, I am half an Englishman by parentage ; and it was 
with pleasure that I visited, for the second time, a country 
endeared to me by the ties of kindred and the remembrance 
of former hospitality. 

My stay in England, however, was intended to be only of 
^hort duration. I carried with me thither a considerable 
collection of living birds and quadrupeds, together with nu- 
merous preserved specimens of natural history, the produce 
of many a long hunting excursion amid the mountains, lakes, 
and forests of my native country. These I was anxious to 
dispose of in England, and then proceed in my travels, though 
to what quarter of the globe I had scarcely yet determined. 

From my earliest youth, my day-dreams had carried me 
into the wilds of Africa. Passionately fond of traveling, ac- 
customed from my childhood to field sports and to the study 
of natural history, and (as I hope I may say with truth) de- 
sirous of rendering myself useful in my generation, I earnest- 



20 DAT-DREAMS. 

ly loDged to explore some portion of that continent where all 
my predilections could be fully indulged, and where much 
still remained in obscurity which might advantageously be 
brought to light. The expense, however, of such a journey 
was to me an insurmountable obstacle. I had, therefore, 
long since given up all idea of making it, and had turned my 
thoughts northward to Iceland, a country Tsdthin my reach, 
and where I purposed studpng the habits and characteristics 
of the rarer species of the northern fauna. While at Hull, 
accordingly, I consulted some whaling captains on the sub- 
ject of my enterprise, and had almost completed my arrange- 
ments, when a visit to London, on some private affairs, en- 
tirely changed my destination. 

Before lea-sdng Hull I v\dtnessed a striking example of that 
attachment toward each other so frequently found to exist 
in the most savasfe animals. By the kindness of the secre- 
tary, I had been permitted to place my collection in the gar- 
dens of the Hull Zoological Society. Among others were 
two brown bears — twins — somewhat more than a year old, 
and playful as kittens when together. Indeed, no greater 
punishment could be inflicted upon these beasts than to dis- 
unite them for however short a time. Still, there was a 
marked contrast in their dispositions. One of them was 
good-tempered and gentle as a lamb, while the other fre- 
quently exhibited signs of a sulky and treacherous character. 
Tempted by an offer for the purchase of the former of these 
animals, I consented, after much hesitation, to his being sep- 
arated from his brother. 

It was long before I forgave myself this act. On the fol- 
lo^ving day, on my proceeding, as usual, to inspect the col- 
lection, one of the keepers ran up to me in the greatest haste, 
exclaiming, "Sir, I am glad you are come, for your bear 
has gone mad!" He then told me that, during the night, 
the beast had destroyed his den, and was found in the morn- 
ing roaming wild about the garden. Luckily, the keeper 



FRATERNAL LOVE. 21 

managed to seize him just as he was escaping into the coun- 
try, and, with the help of several others, succeeded in shut- 
ting him up again. The bear, however, refused his food, and 
raved in so fearful a manner that, unless he could be quieted, 
it was clear he would do some mischief 

On my arrival at his den, I found the poor brute in a most 
furious state, tearing the wooden floor with his claws, and 
gnawing the barricaded front with his teeth. I had no soon- 
er opened the door than he sprang furiously at me, and 
struck me repeated blows with his powerful paws. As, how- 
ever, I had reared him from a cub, we had too often measured 
our strength together for me to fear him now; and I soon 
made him retreat into the corner of his prison, where he re- 
mained howling in the most heartrending manner. It was 
a most sickening sight to behold the poor creature with his 
eyes bloodshot, and protruding from the sockets ; his mouth 
and chest white with foam, and his body crusted with dirt. 
I am not ashamed to confess that at one time I felt my own 
eyes moistened. Neither blows nor kind words were of any 
effect : they only served to irritate and infuriate him ; and I 
saw clearly that the only remedy would be, either to shoot 
him, or to restore him to his brother's companionship. I 
chose the latter alternative ; and the purchaser of the other 
bear, my kind friend Sir Henry Hunloke, on being informed 
of the circumstance, consented to take this one also. 

Shortly after my arrival in London, Sir Hyde Parker, an- 
other valued friend of mine, and " The King of Fishermen," 
introduced me to Mr. Francis Galton, who was then just on 
the point of undertaking -an expedition to Southern Africa; 
his intention being to explore th» unknown regions beyond 
the boundary of the Cape of Good Hope Colony, and to pene- 
trate, if possible, to the recently discovered Lake Ngami. 
Upon finding that I also had an intention of traveling, and 
that our tastes and pursuits were in many respects similar, 
he proposed to me to give up my talked-of trip to the far 



22 PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY TO AFRICA. 

north, and accompany him to the southward ; promising, at 
the same time, to pay the whole of my expenses. This offer 
awoke within me all my former ambition ; and, although I 
could not be blind to the difficulties and dangers that must 
necessarily attend such an expedition, I embraced, after some 
hesitation, Mr. Galton's tempting and liberal proposal. 

Preparations for our long and hazardous journey were now 
rapidly made. An immense quantity o goods of every kind 
was speedily amassed, intended partly for barter and partly 
for presents to barbarous chiefs. Muskets, long sword-knives, 
boar-spears, axes, hatchets, clasp and strike-light knivos, 
Dutch tinder-boxes, daggers, burning-glasses, compasses, gilt 
rings (copper or brass), alarums, beads of every size and col- 
or, wolf-traps, rat-traps, old military dresses, cast-off embas- 
sador's uniforms — these, and a host of other articles too vari- 
ous to enumerate, formed our stock in trade. 

To the above we added, mostly for our own use, guns and 
rifles, a vast quantity of ammunition of all kinds, instru- 
ments for taking observations, arsenical and other prepara- 
tions for preserving objects of natural history, writing mate- 
rials, sketch-books, paints, pencils, canteens, knives, forks, 
dishes, &c. 

It was also deemed advisable that we should take with us 
boats for the navigation of Lake Ngami, those used by the 
natives being unsafe. We therefore supplied ourselves with 
three, each adapted for a specific purpose. 

Having thus provided, as far as possible, for all emer- 
gences, we transferred ourselves and baggage on board the 
splendid but unfortunate ship, the Dalhousie.* Here we 

* It will doubtless be remembered that, in a gale of wind oiF the 
British coast, the Dalhousie was thrown on her beam-ends, and found- 
ered in half an hour afterward, Avhen, with a single exception, every 
soul on board perished. Out of the several vessels in which I have at 
different times been a passenger, the Dalhousie is the third that has 
perished shortly after my leaving her ! 



DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. 23 

found, to our dismay, in addition to a number of other 
passengers, several hundred emigrants, destined to the Cape 
of Good Hope. Instead, however, of these people proving, 
as v^e had at first anticipated, a great annoyance, we found 
that they contributed considerably toward enlivening and 
diverting us during a long and tedious passage. 

I am not, however, about to inflict upon my readers the 
particulars of our voyage to the Cape. Suffice it to say 
that, after a few days' delay at Plymouth, we put to sea in 
half a gale of wind, on the 7th of April, 1850, and experi- 
enced subsequently the usual vicissitudes of rough and 
smooth weather. At one time we were carried by a gentle 
breeze past the lovely island of Madeira, and so near as to 
distinguish its pleasant vineyards, and neat, pretty cottages, 
scattered over the mountain side to the very summit ; at 
another we were driven so far westward by gales and ad- 
verse winds as to sight the coast of South America, until, 
at length, on the night of the 23d of June, the much-wished- 
for land was descried, and on the following noon we anchored 
safely in Table Bay, after a passage of eighty-six days — a 
time at least a third longer than the average. How truly 
welcome to my eyes, as we sailed into the bay, was the fine 
panoramic view of Cape-Town, with the picturesque Table 
Mountain rising immediately in the background ! 

Upon landing, we took up our quarters at Welch's hotel. 
Our design was to stay a short time at Cape-Town, in order 
to obtain information respecting our intended route, and to 
procure whatever was still wanting for our journey. We then 
proposed to proceed by land northward, taking the course 
of the Trans- Vaal river. It will presently be seen, however, 
that our desires in this respect were entirely frustrated. 

To give to an English reader a full description of Cape- 
Town would, indeed, be a superfluous task. I fear, also, 
that in some respects I should be found to differ from other 
travelers. 



24 



CAPE-TOWN AND ITS INHABITANTS. 



Cape-Town is generally described as a clean and neat 
place. With all due deference, I must dissent widely from 
this opinion. All the streets, for instance, are unpaved, and 
are, moreover, half filled with rubbish, swept from the shops 
and warehouses, until some friendly shower carries it away. 
Undoubtedly the town is regularly built, with broad streets, 
laid out at right angles to each other ; but as almost every 
person of property resides in the country, few handsome 
dwelling-houses are to be met with — and by far the greater 
number are in the Dutch style. Here, however, as every 
where else where the English have obtained firm footing, 
improvements are very apparent ; and, doubtless, now that 
the colony has obtained its own Legislature, such improve- 
ments will become still more visible. 

No one can be at Cape-Town for a single day without 
being struck by the infinite variety of the human race en- 
countered in the streets : Indians, Chinese, Malays, Caffres, 
Bechuanas, Hottentots, Creoles, "Afrikanders," half-castes of 
many kinds, negroes of every variety from the east and west 
coasts of Africa, and Europeans of all countries, form the 
^ motley population of the place. 

Of all these, with the exception 
of the Europeans, the Malays are 
by far the most conspicuous and 
important. They comprise, indeed, 
no inconsiderable portion of the in- 
habitants, and are, moreover, dis- 
tinguished for their industry and 
sobriety. Many of them are ex- 
ceedingly well oflf, and, not unfre- 
quently, keep their carriages and 
horses. They profess the Moham- 
medan religion, and have their own 
clergy and places of worship. Two 
thirds of the week they work hard, 




TABLE MOUNTAIN. 25 

and devote the remainder to pleasure, spending mucli of their 
time and money on their dress, more especially the women. 
These latter seldom have any covering for the head ; but the 
men tie round it a red handkerchief, over which they wear 
an enormous umbrella-shaped straw hat, admirably adapted 
to ward off the sun's rays, but useless and inconvenient in 
windy weather. 

The Malays are usually very honest ; but, strange to re- 
late, on a certain day of the year they exert their ingenuity 
in purloining their neighbors' poultry, and. Spartan-like, do 
not consider this dishonorable, provided they are not detect- 
ed in the fact : 

" To be taken, to be seen, 
These have crimes accounted been." 

To be at Cape-Town, without ascending the far-famed 
Table Mountain, was, of course, not to be thought of. The 
undertaking, however, is not altogether without danger. On 
the side of the town, access to the summit is only practicable 
on foot, and that by a narrow and slippery path ; but on the 
opposite side the Table may be gained on horseback, though 
with some difficulty. The whole mountain side, moreover, 
is intersected by deep and numerous ravines, which are ren- 
dered more dangerous by the dense fogs that, at certain sea- 
sons of the y^ar, arise suddenly from the sea. 

One fine afternoon I had unconsciously approached the 
foot of the mountain, and the top looked so near and invit- 
ing, that, though the sun was fast sinking, I determined to 
make the ascent. At the very outset I lost the road ; but, 
having been all my life a mountain-climber, I pushed boldly 
forward. The task, however, proved more difficult than I 
expected, and the sun's broad disk had already touched the 
horizon when I reached the summit. Nevertheless, the mag- 
nificent panorama that now lay spread before me amply re- 
warded me for my trouble. It was, however, only for a very 
short time that I could enjoy the beautiful scene ; darkness 

B 



26 CURIOUS LEGEND, 

was rapidly encroaching over the valley below ; and as in 
these regions there is but one step from light to darkness, I 
was compelled to commence the descent without a moment's 
delay. I confess that this was not done without some ap- 
prehension ; for, what with the quick-coming night, and the 
terrible ravines that lay yawning beneath my feet, the task 
was any thing but agreeable. I found it necessary for safety 
to take off my boots, which I fastened to my waist ; and at 
length, after much exertion, with hands torn, and trowsers 
almost in rags, I arrived late in the evening at our hotel, 
where they had begun to entertain some doubt of my safety. 
As a proof that my fears were not altogether groundless, a 
short time before this, a young man, who was wandering 
about the mountain in broad daylight, missed his footing, 
was precipitated down its sides, and brought in the next day 
a mutilated corpse. 

When Europeans first arrived in the Cape Colony, it would 
appear that almost all the larger quadrupeds indigenous to 
Southern Africa existed in the neighborhood of Table Mount- 
ain. A curious anecdote is preserved in the archives of 
Cape-Town relating to the death of a rhineceros, which, for 
its quaintness and originality, is perhaps worthy of record. 

Once upon a time — so runs the legend — some laborers em- 
ployed in a field discovered a huge rhinoceros immovably 
fixed in the quicksands of the salt river which is within a 
mile of the town. The alarm being given, a number of coun- 
try people, armed with such weapons as were at hand, rushed 
to the spot with an intention of dispatching the monster. Its 
appearance, however, was so formidable, that they deemed it 
advisable to open their battery at a most respectful distance. 
But, seeing that all the animal's efforts to extricate itself were 
fruitless, the men gradually grew more courageous, and ap- 
proached much nearer. Still, whether from the inefficiency 
of their weapons, or want of skill, they were unable to make 
any impression on the tough and almost impenetrable hide 



PREPARATION FOR JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR. 27 

of the beast. At length they began to despair, and it was a 
question if they should not beat a retreat ; when an individ- 
ual, more sagacious than the rest, stepped forward, and sug- 
gested that a hole should be cut in the animal's hide, by 
which means easy access might be had to its vitals, and they 
could then destroy it at their leisure ! The happy device 
was loudly applauded ; and though, I believe, the tale ends 
here, it may be fairly concluded that, after such an excel- 
lent recommendation, success could not but crown their en- 
deavors. 

We had now been at Cape-Town somewhat less than a 
week, and had already added considerably to the stock of 
articles of exchange, provisions, and other necessaries for our 
journey. To convey the immense quantity of luggage, we 
provided ourselves with two gigantic wagons, each repre- 
sented to hold three or four thousand pounds' weight, togeth- 
er with a sort of cart* for ourselves. 

Mr. Galton bought also nine excellent mules, which could 
be used either for draft or packing ; two riding horses ; and, 
in addition to these, he secured about half a dozen dogs, 
which, if the truth be told, were of a somewhat mongrel de- 
scription. 

Mr. Galton also engaged the needful people to accompany 
us on our travels, such as wagon-drivers, herdsmen, cooks, 
&c., in all amounting to seven individuals. 

Our preparations being now complete, we were about to 
set out on our journey, when, to our dismay, we received in- 
formation which entirely overthrew our plans. It was re- 
ported to us that the Boers on the Trans-Vaal River (the very 
line of country we purposed taking) had lately turned back 
several traders and travelers who were on their way north- 

. * The term "cart," in this sense, implies a large, roomy, and cov- 
ered vehicle, capable of holding four or six individuals, and from five 
hundred to one thousand pounds of baggage. It is usually drawn by 
Six or eight mules or horses. 



28 JOURNEY DEFERRED. 

ward, and had, moreover, threatened to kill any person who 
should attempt to pass through their territories with the in- 
tention of penetrating to Lake Ngami. This intelligence 
being equally unexpected and unwelcome, we were at a loss 
on what to decide. On asking the opinion of the Governor 
of the Cape, Sir Harry Smith, to whose kindness and hospi- 
tality we were, on several occasions, indebted, he strongly 
dissuaded us from attempting the route in question. " The 
Boers," he said, " are determined men ; and, although I have 
no fear for the safety of your lives, they will assuredly rob 
you of all your goods and cattle, and thus prevent your pro- 
ceeding farther." The counsel given us by his excellency 
settled the point. We were, however, determined not to be 
idle ; but it was by no means easy to decide on what course 
to pursue. As the whole of the interior, by which a passage 
could be obtained to the lake, was either occupied by the 
Boers, or served as their hunting-ground, we were compelled 
to choose between the eastern and western coasts. The for- 
mer of these, however, was well known to be infected by 
fevers fatal to Europeans; while the latter presented, for a 
considerable distance northward, nothing but a sandy shore, 
destitute of fresh water and vegetation. The country inter- 
vening between the western coast and the lake, moreover, 
was represented as very unhealthy. 

While in this state of uncertainty, we made the acquaint- 
ance of a Mr. M , who lately had an establishment at 

Walfisch Bay, on the west coast of Africa, about seven hund- 
red geographical miles north of the Cape. He strongly rec- 
ommended us to select this place as the starting-point for our 
journey into the interior, which opinion was confirmed by 
some missionaries whom we met in Cape-Town, and who 
had a settlement in the neighborhood of the bay in question. 

This route was ultimately adopted by us ; but, as vessels 
only frequented Walfisch Bay once or twice in the course of 
every two years, Mr. Galton at once chartered a small schoon- 



ARRIVAL AT WALFISCH BAY. 29 

er, named the Foam, the sixth part of the expense of which 
was defrayed by the missionaries referred to, who were anx- 
ious not only to forward some supplies, but to obtain a pas- 
sage for a young member of their society, the Rev. Mr. 
Schoneberg, who was about proceeding on a mission of 
peace and good-will into Damara-land. 

As our plans were now so entirely changed, and as we 
were about to travel through an almost unknown region, we 
thought it expedient to disencumber ourselves of whatever 
could in any way be spared. We left, accordingly, at the 
Cape, among other things, two of our boats ; taking with us, 
however, the other, a mackintosh punt, as being light and 
portable, hoping some day or other to see her floating on the 
waters of the Ngami. 

Our arrangements being finished, and the goods, &c., 
shipped, we unfurled our sails on the 7th of August, and 
bade farewell to Cape-Town, where, during our short stay, 
we had experienced much kindness and hospitality. 



CHAPTER II. 



Arrival at Walfisch Bay. — Scenery. — Harbor described. — Want of 
Water. — Capabilities for Trade. — Fish. — ^Wild-fowl. — Mirage. — 
Sand Fountain. — The Bush-tick — The Naras. — Quadrupeds 
scarce. — Meeting the Hottentots. — Their filthy Habits. — The 
Alarum. — The Turn-out. — Death of a Lion. — Arrival at Schepp- 
mansdorf. — The Place described. — Mr. Bam. — Missionary Life. — 
Ingratitude of Natives. — Missionary Wagons. 

In the afternoon of the 20th of August we found ourselves 
safely anchored at the entrance of Walfisch Bay. From the 
prevalence of southerly winds, this voyage seldom occupies 
more than a week, but on the present occasion we were 
double that time performing it. 

The first appearance of the coast, as seen from Walfisch 
Bay, is little calculated to inspire confidence in the traveler 



30 



SCENERY HARBOR DESCRIBED. 




VIEW OF WALFISCH BAY. 



about to penetrate into the interior. A desert of sand, 
bounded only by the horizon, meets the eye in every quarter, 
assuming, in one direction, the shape of dreary flats ; in an- 
other, of shifting hillocks ; while in some parts it rises al- 
jnost to the height of mountains. 

Walfisch Bay has been long known to Europeans, and was 
once hastily surveyed by Commodore Owen, of the Royal 
Navy. It is a very spacious, commodious, and comparatively 
safe harbor, being on three sides protected by a sandy shore. 
The only winds to which it is exposed are N. and N.W. ; 
but these, fortunately, are not of frequent occurrence. Its 
situation is about N. and S. The anchorage is good. Large 
ships take shelter under the lee of a sandy peninsula, the 
extremity of which is known to navigators by the name of 
"Pelican Point," Smaller craft, however, ride safely with- 
in less than half a mile of the shore. 

The great disadvantage of Walfisch Bay is that no fresh 
water can be found near the beach ; but at a distance of 
three miles inland abundance may be obtained, as also good 
pasturage for cattle. I mention this circumstance as being 
essential to the establishment of any cattle-trade in future. 

During the time the guano trade flourished on the west 
coast of Africa, Walfisch Bay was largely resorted to by 
vessels of every size, chiefly with a view of obtaining fresh 
provisions. At that period, certain parties from the Cape 
had an establishment here for the salting and curing of beef. 
They, moreover, furnished the guano-traders, as also Cape- 



riSH WILD-FOWL. 31 

Town, with cattle ; and had, in addition, a contract with the 
British government for supplying St. Helena with live-stock. 
The latter speculation proved exceedingly lucrative for a 
time, and a profit of many hundred per cent, was said to be 
realized. From some mismanagement, however, the contract 
for St. Helena was thrown up by the government, and the 
parties in question were fined a large sum of money for its 
non-fulfillment. Shortly afterward the establishment was 
broken up, and for several years the house and store re- 
mained unoccupied ; but they are now again tenanted by 
people belonging to merchants from Cape-Town. 

Walfisch Bay affords an easy and speedy communication 
with the interior. By the late explorations of Mr. Galton 
and myself in that quarter, we have become acquainted with 
many countries previously unknown, or only partially ex- 
plored, to which British commerce might easily be extended. 
Walfisch Bay and the neighborhood abounds with fish of 
various kinds : at certain seasons, indeed, it is much frequent- 
ed by a number of the smaller species of whale, known by 
the name of " humpbacks," which come here to breed. Sev- 
eral cargoes of oil, the produce of this fish, have been already 
exported. 

At the inner part of the harbor, a piece of shallow water 
extends nearly a mile into the interior, and is separated from 
the sea, on the west side, by Pelican Point. This lagoon 
teems with various kinds of fish, and at low water, many 
that have lingered behind are left sprawling helplessly in the 
mud. At such times, the natives are frequently seen ap- 
proaching ; and, with a gemsbok's horn affixed to a slender 
stick, they transfix their finny prey at leisure. Even hyaenas 
and jackals seize such e^^portunities to satisfy their hunger. 

Walfisch Bay is frequented by immense numbers of water- 
fowl, such as geese, ducks, different species of cormorants, 
pelicans, flamingoes, and countless flocks of sandpipers. But, 
as the surrounding country is every where open, they are dif- 



32 ARCTIC DUCK, 

ficult of approach. Nevertheless, with a little tact and ex- 
perience, tolerably good sport may be obtained, and capital 
rifle-practice at all times. Hardly any of tlie water-fowl 
breed here. 

Every morning, at daybreak, myriads of flamingoes, peli- 
cans, cormorants, &c., are seen moving from their roosting- 
places in and about the bay, and flying in a northerly direc- 
tion. About noon they begin to return to the southern por- 
tion of the bay, and continue arriving there, in an almost 
continuous stream, until nightfall. 

The way in which the " duikers" (cormorants and shags) 
obtain their food is not uninteresting. Instead of hovering 
over their prey, as the gull, or waiting quietly for it in some 
secluded spot, like the kingfisher, they make their attacks in 
a noisy and exciting manner. Mr. Lloyd, in his " Scandina- 
vian Adventures," has given a very interesting account of 
the manner in which the Arctic duck (Jiarelda glacialis, 
Steph.) procures its food ; and, as it applies to the birds 
above named, I can not do better than quote him on the 
subject. 

" The hareld is a most restless bird," says he, " and per- 
petually in motion. It rarely happens that one sees it in a 
state of repose during the daytime. The flock — for there 
are almost always several in company — swim pretty fast 
against the wind ; and the individuals comprising it keep up 
a sort of race with each other. Some of the number are al- 
ways diving ; and, as these remain long under water, and 
their comrades are going rapidly ahead in the mean while, 
they are, of course, a good way behind the rest on their re- 
appearance at the surface. Immediately on coming up, 
therefore, they take wing, and, flying over the backs of their 
comrades, resume their position in the ranks, or rather fly 
somewhat beyond their fellows, with the object, as it would 
seem, of being the foremost of the party. This frequently 
continues across the bay or inlet, until the flock is " brought 



MIRAGE. 33 

up" by the opposing shore, when they generally all take wing 
and move off elsewhere. *****< Fair play is a 
jewel,' says the old saw, and so, perhaps, thinks the hareld ; 
for it would really appear as if it adopted the somewhat cu- 
rious manoeuvre just mentioned to prevent its companions 
from going over the ground previously." 

The day after our arrival we moved our small craft with- 
in half a mile of the shore, and, as soon as she was safely 
anchored, we proceeded to reconnoitre the neighborhood. 
The first thing which attracted our attention was a mirage 
of the most striking character and intensity of efiect. Ob- 
jects, distant only a few hundred feet, became perfectly met- 
amorphosed. Thus, for instance, a small bird would look as 
big as a rock, or the trunk of a tree ; pelicans assumed the 
appearance of ships under canvas ; the numerous skeletons 
and bones of stranded whales were exaggerated into clusters 
of lofty houses, and dreary and sterile plains presented the 
aspect of charming lakes. In short, every object had a be- 
wildering and supernatural appearance, and the whole at- 
mosphere was misty, tremulous, and wavy. This phenome- 
non is at all times very remarkable, but during the hot 
season of the year it is more surprising and deceptive. At 
an after period Mr. Galton tried to map the bay, but this 
mirage frustrated all his endeavors. An object that he had, 
perhaps, chosen for a mark, became totally indistinguishable 
when he moved to the next station. 

On the beach we found a small house, constructed of 
planks, in tolerable preservation, which at high water was 
completely surrounded by the sea. This had originally been 
erected by a Captain Greybourn for trading purposes, but 
was now in the possession of the Rhenish Missionary Society. 
It was kindly thrown open to our use, and proved of the 
greatest comfort to us ; for at this season the nights were 
bitterly cold, and the dew so heavy as completely to satu- 
rate every article of clothing that was exposed. 

B2 



34 SAND FOUNTAIN. 

We had not been many minutes on shore when some 
half-naked, half-starved, cut-throat-looking savages made 
their appearance, armed with muskets and assegais. Noth- 
ing cOuld exceed the squalid, wretched, and ludicrous aspect 
of these people, which was increased by a foolish endeavor 
to assume a martial bearing, no doubt with a view of mak- 
ing an impression on us. Without noticing either their 
weapons or swaggering air, and in order to disarm suspicion, 
we walked straight up to them, and shook hands with appa- 
rent cordiality. Our missionary friend, INIr. Schoneberg, then 
explained to them, by signs and gestures, that he wished to 
have a letter conveyed to Mr. Bam, his colleague, residing 
at Scheppmansdorf, some twenty miles off, in an easterly 
direction. It soon became apparent that they were accus- 
tomed to similar errands ; for, on receiving a small gratuity 
of tobacco on the spot, with a promise of further payment 
on their return, they set out immediately, and executed their 
task with so much dispatch, that, before the dawn of next 
morning, Mr. Bam had arrived. 

In the mean time, we made an excursion to a place called 
Sand Fountain, about three miles inland. On our way there 
we crossed a broad flat, which in spring tides is entirely 
flooded. In spite of this submersion, the tracks of wagons, 
animals, &c., of several years' standing, were as clear and 
distinct as if imprinted but yesterday ! At Sand Fountain 
we found another wooden house, but uninhabited, belonging 

to Mr. D , a partner of Mr. M . The natives had 

taken advantage of the absence of the owner to injure and 
destroy the few pieces of furniture left behind, and leaves 
of books and panes of window glass were wantonly strewn 
about the ground. We next visited the so-called " fountain,'* 
which was hard by ; but, instead of a copious spring — as the 
name of the place gave us reason to expect — we found, to 
our dismay, nothing but a small hole, some five or six inches 
in diameter, and half as many deep ; the water, moreover, 



• UNPALATABLE WATER. 35 

was of SO execrable a quality as to make it totally undrink- 
able. However, on cleaning away the sand, it flowed pretty 
fi-eely, and we flattered ourselves that, by a little care and 
trouble, we might render it fit for use, if not exactly pala- 
table. 

After having thus far explored the country, we returned 
to the vessel. On the following morning, at daybreak, we 
set about landing our effects, mules, horses, &c., which was 
not done without some difiiculty. As soon as the goods 
belonging to the missionary should have been removed to 
Scheppmansdorf, Mr. Bam most considerately promised to 
assist us with his oxen. In the interval — as there was no 
fresh water on the beach — we deemed it advisable to remove 
our luggage, by means of the mules, to Sand Fountain, where 
we should, at least, be able to obtain water — though bad of 
its kind — and be better oflT in other respects. 

On the fourth day, the schooner which had conveyed us 
to Walfisch Bay set sail for the Cape, leaving us entirely to 
our own resources on a desert coast, and — -excepting the 
several missionary stations scattered over the country — at 
several months' tedious journey by land to the nearest point 
of civilization. 

On returning to Sand Fountain, our first care was to sink 
an old perforated tar-barrel in a place dug for the purpose ; 
but instead of improving the quality of the water, it only 
made matters worse ! Fortunately, we had taken the pre- 
caution to bring with us from the Cape a " copper distiller ;" 
but the water, even thus purified, could only be used for 
cooking, or making very strong coffee and tea. Strange 
enough, when the owner of the house resided here, water 
was abundant and excellent ; but the spot where it was ob- 
tained was now hidden from view by an immense sand-hill, 
which defied digging. 

At Sand Fountain we had the full benefit of the sea-breeze, 
which made the temperature very agreeable, the thermometer 



36 BUSH-TICK. 

never exceeding seventy-five degrees in the shade at noon. 
The sand, however, was a cruel annoyance, entering into 
every particle of food, and penetrating our clothes to the 
very skin. But we were subjected to a still more formidable 
inconvenience ; for, besides myriads of fieas, our encampment 
swarmed with a species of bush-tick, whose bite was so se- 
vere and irritating as almost to drive us mad. To escape, 
if possible, the horrible persecutions of these bloodthirsty 
creatures, I took refuge one night in the cart, and was con- 
gratulating myself on having at last secured a place free 
from their attacks. But I was mistaken. I had not been 
long asleep before I was awakened by a disagreeable irrita- 
tion over my whole body, which shortly became intolerable ; 
and, notwithstanding the night air was very sharp, and the 
dew heavy, I cast oiF all my clothes, and rolled on the icy- 
cold sand till the blood flowed freely from every pore. 
Strange as it may appear, I found this expedient serviceable. 

On another occasion, a bush-tick, but of a still more pois- 
onous species, attached itself to one of my feet ; and, though 
a stinging sensation was produced, I never thought of exam- 
ining the part, till one day, when enjoying the unusual lux- 
ury of a cold bath, I accidentally discovered the intruder 
deeply buried in the flesh, and it was only with very great 
pain that I succeeded in extracting it, or rather its body, for 
the head remained in the wound. The poisonous eflfect of 
its bite was so acrimonious as to cause partial lameness for 
three following months ! 

The bush-tick does not confine its attacks to men only, for 
it attaches itself with even greater pertinacity to the inferior 
animals. Many a poor dog have I seen killed by its relent- 
less persecutions ; and even the sturdy ox has been known to 
succumb under the poisonous influence of these insects.* 

* When a bush-tick is found attached to any part of the body of a 
man, the simplest and the most effectual way of getting rid of it, 
without any disagreeable result, is to anoint the place to which the 



THE NARAS. 37 

Sand Fountain, notwithstanding its disagreeable guests, 
had its advantages. Almost every little sand-hillock there- 
about was covered with a " creeper," which produced a kind 
of prickly gourd (called by the natives naras), of the most 
delicious flavor. It is about the size of an ordinary turnip 
(a Swede), and, when ripe, has a greenish exterior, with a 
tinge of lemon. The interior, again, which is of a deep 
orange color, presents a most cooling, refreshing, and invit- 
ing appearance. A stranger, however, must be particularly 
cautious not to eat of it too freely, as otherwise it produces 
a peculiar sickness, and great soreness of the gum and lips. 
For three or four months in the year it constitutes the chief 
food of the natives. 

The naras contains a great number of seeds, not unlike a 
peeled almond in appearance and taste, and being easily sep- 
arated from the fleshy parts, they are carefully collected, ex- 
posed to the sun, dried, and then stored away in little skin 
bags. When the fruit fails, the natives have recourse to the 
seedSj which are equally nutritious, and perhaps even more 
wholesome. The naras may also be preserved by being 
boiled. When of a certain consistency, it is spread out into 
thin cakes, in which state it presents the appearance of brown 
moist sugar, and may be kept for almost any length of time. 
These cakes are, however, rather rich and luscious. 

But it is not man alone that derives benefit from this re- 
markable plant, for every animal, from the field-mouse to 
the ox, and even the feline and canine race, devour it with 
great avidity. Birds* are also very partial to it, more es- 
pecially ostriches, who, during the naras season, are found 
in great abundance in these parts. 

insect has fixed itself with pipe oil. In cases of brute animals, I 
have found tar to answer the piirpose exceedingly well. 

* I have seen the white Egyptian vulture feed upon it ! This is, I 
believe, with one more exception, the only instance where this class 
of birds are known to partake of vegetable food. 



38 THE NARAS QUADRUPEDS SCARCE. 

It is ill such instances, more especially, that the mind be- 
comes powerfully impressed with the wise provisions of na- 
ture, and the great goodness of the Almighty, who even 
from the desert raises good and wholesome sustenance for 
man and all his creatures. 

"By his bounteous hand, 
God covers earth with food for man and beast, 
Insect and bird ; yea, the poor creeping worm 
Partakes the Creator's bounty." 

In this barren and poverty-stricken country, food is so 
scarce that, without the naras, the land would be all but un- 
inhabitable. The naras serves, moreover, a double purpose ; 
for, besides its usefulness as food, it fixes with wonderful te- 
nacity, by means of extensive ramifications, the constantly 
shifting sands ; it is, indeed, to those parts what the sand- 
reed (ammophila arundinacia) is to the sandy shores and 
downs of England. 

The naras only grows in the bed of the Kuisip River, in 
the neighborhood of the sea. A few plants are to be* met 
with at the mouth of the Orange River, as also, according 
to Captain Messum, in a few localities between the Swakop 
and the Nourse River. 

The general aspect of the country about Sand Fountain is 
very dreary and desolate. The soil is entirely composed of 
sand. The vegetation, moreover, is stunted in the extreme, 
consisting chiefly of the above-mentioned creeper, a species 
of tamarisk tree (or rather bush), and a few dew-plants. 
Consequently, the animal world, as might be expected, did 
not present any great variety. Nevertheless, being an en- 
thusiastic sportsman, and devoted to the study of natural his- 
tory, I made frequent short excursions into the neighborhood, 
on which occasions my spoils consisted for the most part of 
some exquisitely beautiful lizards, a few long-legged beetles, 
and some pretty species of field-mice. Once in a time, more- 
over, I viewed a solitary gazelle in the distance. 



THE ALARUM THE TURN-OUT. 39 

A few miles from our encampment resided a small kraal 
of Hottentots, under the chief Frederick, who occasionally 
brought us some milk and a few goats as a supply for the 
larder, in exchange for which they received old soldiers' coats 
(worth sixpence a piece), handkerchiefs, hats, tobacco, and a 
variety of other trifling articles. But they infinitely pre- 
ferred to beg, and were not the least ashamed to ask for even 
the shirt on one's back. 

These men were excessively dirty in their habits. One 
fine morning I observed an individual attentively examining 
his caross, spread out before him in a sunny and sheltered 
spot. On approaching him, in order to ascertain the cause 
of his deep meditation, I found, to my astonishment and dis- 
gust, that he was feasting on certain loathsome insects, that 
can not with propriety be named to ears polite. This was 
only one instance out of a hundred that might be named of 
their filthy customs. 

As Frederick the chieftain, and a few of his half-starved 
and Chinese-featured followers, were one day intently watch- 
ing the process of our packing and unpacking divers trunks, 
I placed alongside of him, as if by accident, a small box- 
alarum, and then resumed my employment. On the first 
shrill sound of the instrument, our friend leaped from his 
seat like one suddenly demented ; and during the whole time 
the jarring notes continued, he remained standing at a re- 
spectful distance, trembling violently from head to foot. 

As no draft cattle could be obtained in the neighbor- 
hood, nor, indeed, within a less distance than from one hund- 
red and fifty to two hundred miles, Mr. Galton started on an 
excursion into the interior with a view of obtaining a supply. 

His " turn-out" was most original, and would have formed 
an excellent subject for a caricature. From both ends of the 
cart with which he made the journey protruded a number of 
common muskets and other articles intended for barter. The 
mules harnessed to the vehicle kept up a most discordant con- 



40 AN EMBARRASSIJSra SITUATION. 

cert, viciously kicking out to the right and left. The coach- 
man, bathed in perspiration, kept applying his immense Cape- 
whip to their flanks with considerable unction, while a man 
sitting alonsrside of him on the front seat abused the stub- 
born animals with a burst of all the eloquent epithets con- 
tained in the Dutch -Hottentot vocabulary. Two sulky 
goats, tied to the back of the cart, were on the point of 
strangling themselves in their endeavors to escape. To com- 
plete the picture, Galton himself, accompanied by half a doz- 
en dogs of nondescript race, toiled on cheerfully through the 
deep sand by the side of the vehicle, smoking a common clay 
pipe. 

On my friend's arrival at Scheppmansdorf, however, he 
found it necessary to adjourn his trip into the interior for a 
few days. 

In the mean time, as Mr. Bam's oxen had arrived at Sand 
Fountain, I busied myself with conveying the baggage to 
Scheppmansdorf; but, on account of its great weight and 
bulk, and the badness of the road, this occupation lasted 
several days. In the last trip we had so overloaded the 
wagons, that, after about three miles, the oxen came to a 
dead stand-still. The two teams were now yoked to one of 
the vehicles, and it proceeded on its way without further in- 
terruption, while I remained alone in charge of the other. 
It was agreed that some of the men should return with the 
cattle on the following night ; but, on arriving at Schepp- 
mansdorf, they and the oxen were so exhausted that it was 
found necessary to give both the one and the other two days' 
rest. For this delay I was not at all prepared. My small 
supply of water had been exhausted on the second day, and 
I began, for the first time in my life, to experience the misery 
of thirst. I was, however, fortunately relieved from my 
embarrassing situation by the arrival of a Hottentot, who, 
for a trifling consideration, brought me an ample supply of 
water. 



DEATH OF A LION SCHEPPMANSDOEF. 41 

At length all the baggage was safely deposited at Schepp- 
mansdorf, where I rejoined Mr. Galton. 

He had not^ I found, been many days at that place, when 
a magnificent lion suddenly appeared one night in the midst 
of the village. A small dog, that had incautiously approach- 
ed the beast, paid the penalty of its life for its daring. The 
next day a grand chase was got up, but the lion, being on 
his guard, managed to elude his pursuers. The second day, 
however, he was killed by Messrs. Galton and Bam ; and, 
on cutting him up, the poor dog was found, still undigested, 
in his stomach, bitten into five pieces. 

The natives highly rejoiced at the successful termination 
of the hunt ; for this lion had proved himself to be one of 
the most daring and destructive ever known, having, in a 
short time, killed upward of fifty oxen, cows, and horses. 
Though he had previously been chased, he had always 
escaped unscathed, and every successive attack made upon 
him only served to increase his ferocity. 

I regretted much being prevented from taking part in so 
interesting and exciting an event, but, on the other hand, I 
felt pleased that my friend had thus early had an opportunity 
of exercising his skill on one of the most noble and dreaded 
of the animal creation. My turn was yet to come. 

Scheppmansdorf — Roebank — Abbanhous — as it is indiffer- 
ently called — was first occupied as a missionary station in 
the year 1846, by the Rev. Mr. Scheppman, from whom it 
takes its name. It is situated on the left bank of the River 
Kuisip, and immediately behind rise enormous masses and 
ridges of sand. The Kuisip is a periodical stream, and is 
dependent on the rains in the interior ; but, from the great 
uncertainty of this supply, and the absorbing nature of the 
soil, it is seldom that it reaches Walfisch Bay, where it has 
its estuary. On our arrival, the Kuisip had not flowed for 
years ; but when it does send down its mighty torrent, it 
fertilizes and changes the aspect of the country to a wonder- 



42 MR. BAM. 

ful degree. Kain falls seldom or never at this place, but 
thirsty nature is relieved by heavy dews. Fresh water and 
fuel, however, two of the great necessaries of life, are found 
in abundance. 

Sandy and barren as the soil appears to the eye, portions 
of it, nevertheless, are capable of great fertility. From time 
to time, Mr. Bam has cultivated small spots of garden ground 
in the bed of the river ; but, although many things thrive ex- 
ceedingly well, the trouble, risk, and labor were too great to 
make it worth his while to persevere. A sudden and unex- 
pected flood, the effect of heavy rains in the interior, often 
lays waste in a few minutes what has taken months to raise. 

The principal trees thereabouts are the ana and the giraffe- 
thorn {acacia giraffce) ; and the chief herbage, a species of 
sand-reed, which is much relished by the cattle when once 
accustomed to it, but more especially by horses, mules, and 
donkeys, which thrive and fatten wonderfully on this diet. 

During our stay at Scheppmansdorf we were the constant 
guests of Mr. and Mrs. Bam, but we felt almost sorry to tres- 
pass on a hospitality that we knew they could ill afford, for 
it was only once in every two years that they received their 
supplies from the Cape, and then only in sufficient quantities 
for their own families. The genuine sincerity, however, with 
which it was offered overruled all scruples. 

Mr. Bam had long been a dweller in various parts of Great 
Namaqua-land.* His present residence, however, in this its 
western portion, was of comparatively recent date. Although 
he had used every effort to civilize and Christianize his small 
community, all his endeavors had hitherto proved nearly 
abortive ; but as we become acquainted with the character 
of the Namaquas, who are partially-civilized Hottentots, the 
wonder ceases, and we discover that they possess every vice 

* The southern limit of Great Namaqua-land is, at the present mo- 
ment, the Orange River. To the north it is bounded by Damara-land, 
or by about the twenty-second degree of south latitude. 



MISSIONARY LIFE. 43^ 

of savages, and none of their noble qualities. So long as 
they are fed and clothed, they are willing enough to congre- 
gate round the missionary, and to listen to his exhortation. 
The moment, however, the food and clothing are discontin- 
ued, their feigned attachment to his person and to his doc- 
trines is at an end, and they do not scruple to treat their 
benefactor with ingratitude, and load him with abuse. 

The missionary is more or less dependent on his own re- 
sources. Such assistance as he obtains from the natives is 
so trivial, and procured with so much trouble, that it is often 
gladly dispensed with. The good man is his own architect, 
smith, wheelwright, tinker, gardener, &c., while his faithful 
spouse officiates as nurse, cook, washerwoman, and so forth. 
Occasionally, to get the drudgery off their hands, they adopt 
some poor boy and girl, who, after they have been taught 
with infinite labor to make themselves useful, and have ex- 
perienced nothing but kindness, will often leave their pro- 
tectors abruptly, or, what is nearly as bad, become lazy and 
indolent. 

A Namaqua, it would appear, is not able to appreciate 
kindness, and no word in his language, as far as I can re- 
member, is expressive of gratitude ! The same is the case, 
as I shall hereafter have occasion to mention, with their north- 
ern neighbors, the Damaras, and though a sad, it is never- 
theless a true picture. 

When wagons were first introduced into Great Namaqua- 
land, they caused many conjectures and much astonishment 
among the natives, who conceived them to be some gigantic 
animal possessed of vitality. A conveyance of this kind, be- 
longing to the Rev. Mr. Schmelen, once broke down, and was 
left sticking in the sand. One day a Bushman came to the 
owner, and said that he had seen his " pack-ox" standing in 
the desert for a long time with a broken leg, and, as he did 
not observe it had any grass, he was afraid that it would soon 
die of hunger unless taken away ! 



44 PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY. 



CHAPTER III. 

Preparations for Journey. — Breaking-in Oxen. — Departure from 
Scheppmansdorf. — An infuriated Ox. — The Naarip Plain. — The 
scarlet Flower. — The Usab Gorge. — The Swakop River. — Tracks 
of Rhinoceros seen. — Anecdote of that Animal. — A Sunrise in the 
Tropics. — Sufferings from Heat and Thirst. — Arrival at Daviep : 
great resort of Lions. — A Horse and Mule killed by them. — The 
Author goes in pursuit. — A troop of Lions. — Unsuccessful Chase. — 
Mules' flesh palatable. 

Mr. Galton had now so far altered his plans that, instead 
of proceeding up the country with only one half of his par- 
ty for the purchase of cattle, it was arranged that we should 
make the journey together. The wagons and the bulk of 
our effects were to be left at Scheppmansdorf, and we were 
only to take with us some few articles of exchange, a small 
quantity of provisions, and a moderate supply of ammunition. 

Finding, however, that the cart could not conveniently 
hold all our baggage, though now reduced to the smallest 
quantity possible, it was resolved to pack a portion on oxen. 
These animals, on account of their great hardihood, are in- 
valuable in South Africa ; the more so, as they can be equal- 
ly well used for draft, the *'pack," or the "saddle." But as 
we had no cattle trained for either of these purposes, and 
only one or two were procurable at the missionary station, 
we were necessitated, prior to our departure thence, to break 
in a few. No easy matter, by-the-by; for oxen are of a 
wild and stubborn disposition, and it requires months to 
make tliem tractable. We were, however, totally at a loss 
how to set to work. 

But fortunately, at this time, Mr. Galton had engaged a 



BEEAKING-IN OXEN. 45 

Mr. Stewardson, tailor by profession, but now "jack of all 
trades," to accompany us up the country in the capacity of 
cicerone, etc. ; and as this man, from long residence among 
the Hottentots, was thoroughly conversant with the myste- 
ries of ox-breaking, to him, therefore, we deputed the difficult 
task. 

At the end of a "riem," or long leather thong, a pretty 
large noose is made, which is loosely attached to, or rather 
suspended from, the end of a slight stick some five or six feet 
in length. With this stick in his hand, a man, under shelter 
of the herd, stealthily approaches the ox selected to be oper- 
ated on. When sufficiently near, he places the noose (though 
at some little distance from the ground) just in advance of 
the hind feet of the animal ; and when the latter steps into 
it, he draws it tight. The instant the ox finds himself in the 
toils, he makes a tremendous rush forward ; but, as several 
people hold the outer end of the " riem," he — in sailor lan- 
guage — is quickly " brought up." The force of the check is 
indeed such as often to capsize one or more of the men. He 
now renews his efforts ; he kicks, foams, bellows ; and his 
companions, at first startled, return and join in chorus ; the 
men shout, the dogs bark furiously, and the affair becomes 
at once dangerous and highly exciting. The captured ani- 
mal not unfrequently grows frantic with rage and fear, and 
turns upon his assailant, when the only chance of escape is 
to let go the hold of the " riem." Usually he soon exhausts 
himself by his own exertions, when one or two men instant- 
ly seize him by the tail, another thong having also been 
passed round his horns ; and by bringing the two to bear in 
exactly opposite directions, or, in other words, by using the 
two as levers at a right angle with his body, he is easily 
brought to the ground. This being once effected, the tail is 
passed between his legs and held forcibly down over his ribs, 
and the head is twisted on one side, with the horns fixed in 
the ground. A short, strong stick, of peculiar shape, is then 



46 BKEAKING-IN OXEN. 

forced through the cartilage of the nose, and to either end 
of this stick is attached (in bridle fashion) a thin, tough 
leathern thong. From the extreme tenderness of the nose 
he is now more easily managed ; but if he is still found very 
vicious, he is either packed in his prostrate position, or fast- 
ened with his head to a tree, while two or three persons 
keep the " riem" tight about his legs, so as to prevent him 
from turning round or injuring any person with his feet. 
For the " packing," however, a more common and conven- 
ient plan is to secure him between two tame oxen, with a 
person placed outside each of these animals. 

For the first day or two, only a single skin, or empty bag, 
is put on his back, which is firmly secured with a thong 
eighty or ninety feet in length (those employed by the Nama- 
quas for the same purpose are about twice as long) ; but 
bulk as well as weight is daily added ; and though he kicks 
and plunges violently, and sometimes with such efiect as to 
throw off his pack, the ox soon becomes more tractable. 
Strange enough, those who show the most spirit in the begin- 
ning are often the first subdued. But an ox that lies doA^ii 
when in the act of" packing" him generally proves the most 
troublesome. Indeed, not one in ten that does so is fit for 
any thing. 

I have seen oxen that no punishment, however severe, 
would induce to rise ; not even the application of fire. This 
would seem a cruel expedient ; but when it is remembered 
that his thus remaining immovable is entirely attributable to 
obstinacy, and that a person's life may depend on getting 
forward, the application of this torture admits of some excuse. 
But even when, at last, he has been trained to carry the 
pack or the saddle, there is another difficulty, scarcely less 
formidable, to overcome. From the gregarious habits of the 
ox, he is unwilling either to proceed in advance of the rest, 
or to remain at any distance behind his comrades ; and if 
there is no one to lead, the whole troop will instantly come 



DEPARTURE FROM SCIIEPPMANSDORF. 47 

to a stand-still. Only a few can be trained as leaders. 
Such animals are always selected as have a quick step, and 
of themselves are in the habit of keeping ahead, and apart 
from the rest of the herd. Oxen of this description at all 
times hold the first rank in a traveling caravan. 

At length, after great exertions and endless delays, we 
were able to fix upon the day for our departure. Our ar- 
rangements were as follows : On the cart, which was drawn 
by eight mules, we placed about one thousand pounds, con- 
sisting chiefly of guns, presents for chieftains and others, 
articles for barter, implements of natural history, bedding, 
&c. Six hundred weight (ammunition and provisions) were 
besides distributed among four " pack"-oxen and one mule. 

The object of the expedition being entirely for the purpose 
of obtaining cattle for draft and slaughter, we were given to 
understand that after about eight to ten days' journey we 
should arrive at some native villages, where we might pro- 
cure any number of beasts required. Our course, as far as 
we could understand, was to the northeast, and through an 
exceedingly wild and sterile part of the country. 

On the morning of the 19th of September we left Schepp- 
mansdorf. The young cattle proved exceedingly unmanage- 
able ; and we had not been on the road many minutes be- 
fore a small handsome ox, which from the very beginning had 
given us much trouble in breaking-in, left the herd, and was 
apparently about retracing his steps to the missionary station. 
To prevent this, Galton and I endeavored to head him, on 
which he set off at a rapid pace. On finding himself hard 
pressed, however, he suddenly wheeled round and rushed 
toward my friend at headlong speed. Thinking it merely a 
demonstration, Mr. Galton remained stationary ; but by so 
doing he nearly lost his life, for the infuriated beast charged 
home. Fortunately, however, his horn merely grazed my 
friend's leg, though it inflicted some injury on the shoulder 
of the horse. 



48 THE SCARLET FLOWER. 

After this little adventure, we continued our route at a 
pretty quick pace over a hard, crisp, gravely country, to- 
tally devoid of water, with scarcely a vestige of vegetation. 

It was not until about ten o'clock at night, and after 
having traveled nearly twelve hours, that we reached a small 
granite rock, at the foot of which we succeeded in obtaining 
a few pints of very brackish water. Both Mr. Galton and 
myself were very tired. In order to save the horses, and to 
give the men an occasional mount, we had walked a con- 
siderable part of the way ; and after partaking of some coffee, 
&c., we quickly resigned our weary limbs to sleep. 

At break of day we were again stirring ; and while the 
men were harnessing the mules, &c., I ascended the rock, 
where I discovered a most beautiful air-plant in full blossom, 
of a bright scarlet color, with the lower part of the interior 
of the corolla tinged with lemon. 

The sight of such a lovely flower in this dreary and deso- 
late region excited within me some emotion, and I now fully 
appreciated the touching expression of Mungo Park, when, 
having in a state of complete exhaustion thrown himself 
down to die, he discovered at his side a beautiful little moss, 
and exclaimed, " Can that Being who planted, watered, and 
brought to perfection in this obscure part of the world a 
thing which appears of so small importance, look with un- 
concern upon the situation and sufferings of a creature formed 
after his own image ? Surely not." 

Even the mighty Nimrod, Gordon Gumming, v/hose whole 
soul one would imagine to be engrossed by lions and ele- 
phants, seems to have been struck with equal delight as my- 
self at the sight of this charming flower : " In the heat of 
the chase," says he, "I paused, spell-bound, to contemplate 
with admiration its fascinating beauty." 

We continued our journey over the same sterile plain 
(Naarip) till about ten o'clock A.M., when we suddenly en- 
tered a narrow and desolate-looking mountain gorge, called 



TRACKS OF KHINOCEROS SEEN. 49 

Usab, sloping rapidly toward the bed of a periodical river. 
Here, under the shade of a stunted acacia, Stewardson rec- 
ommended us to " outspan ;" and, leaving our cook in charge 
of the cart, we proceeded with the animals at once in search 
of water. 

For more than two miles we continued to follow the gorge, 
which, as we approached the river, assumed a more gloomy, 
though perhaps more striking appearance, being overhung 
with towering and fantastically-shaped granite rocks. Not- 
withstanding this, the river — to which the natives give the 
name of Schwackaup, or Swakop, as Europeans call it — 
presented a most cheerful and pleasant aspect ; for, though 
not flowing at the time, its moist bed was luxuriantly over- 
grown with grass, creepers, and pretty ice -plants. The 
banks on either side were also more or less lined with gigan- 
tic reeds, of a most refreshing color ; and above the reeds 
rose several beautiful trees, such as the acacia, the black 
ebony, &c. 

Under a projecting rock, a few hundred paces from the 
spot where we struck upon the river, we discovered a pool of 
excellent water, where man and beast, in long and copious 
drafts, soon quenched a burning thirst. This being done, 
we indulged in a delicious bath, which highly refreshed our 
fatigued and dusty limbs. 

On a lofty and inaccessible rock overhanging the river-bed 
I again saw some of those beautiful flowers which in the 
early morning had caused me so much delight, and, with a 
well-directed ball, I brought down one almost to my feet. 

In the sand we discovered the broad footprints of a rhinoc- 
eros. From their freshness it was apparent that the mon- 
ster had visited the river-bed during the preceding night, but 
all our endeavors to rouse him proved ineffectual. 

While still talking about the prospect of soon seeing this 
singular animal in his native haunts, I remembered a story 
Mr. Bam had told us of a wonderful escape he once had 

C 



50 ANECDOTE OF THE KHnSTOCEROS. 

from one of these beasts, and which I will endeavor to give in 
his own words. 

"As we entered the Swakop River one day," said he, "we 
observed the tracks of a rhinoceros, and, soon after unyok- 
ing our oxen, the men requested to be allowed to go in search 
of the beast. This I readily granted, only reserving a native 
to assist me in kindling the fire and preparing our meal. 
While we were thus engaged, we heard shouting and firing ; 
and, on looking in the direction whence the noise proceeded, 
discovered, to our horror, a rhinoceros rushing furiously at 
us at the top of his speed. Our only chance of escape was 
the wagon, into which we hurriedly flung ourselves. And 
it was high time that we should seek refuge, for the next 
instant the enraged brute struck his powerful horn into the 
' buik-plank' (the bottom boards) with such force as to push 
the wagon several paces forward, although it was standing 
in very heavy sand. Most providentially, he attacked the 
vehicle from behind ; for, if he had struck it on the side, he 
could hardly have failed to upset it, ponderous as it was. 
From the wagon he made a dash at the fire, overturning 
the pot we had placed alongside it, and scattering the burn- 
ing brands in every direction. Then, without doing any fur- 
ther damage, he proceeded on his wild career. Unfortunate- 
ly, the men had taken with them all the guns, otherwise, I 
might easily have shot him dead on the spot. The Damara, 
however, threw his assegai at him, but the soft iron bent 
like a reed against his thick and almost impenetrable hide." 

The greater part of the afternoon was spent under the 
shade of some wide-spreading acacias, and in hunting for 
specimens of natural history. A species of Francolin {fran- 
colinus achpersus), and one or two pretty kinds of fly-catch- 
ers, were among the day's spoil. 

A little before sunset we returned to the camp ; and, as 
we were to continue our journey on the morrow's dawn, we 
picketed the mules and horses, and made our encampment as 



A SrNRISE IN THE TROPICS. 51 

snug as possible. Though the ground was our couch, and 
the sky our canopy, we slept soundly, and awoke early the 
next morning, greatly refreshed. We much needed this re- 
newal of our vigor, for the day proved exceedingly trying 
both to men and cattle. 

Once more we were on the Naarip plain, though this 
time we traveled parallel with the Swakop (which here pur- 
sued an easterly course), on the edge of those gloomy rocks 
through which its deep and turbulent channel has forced its 
way. 

Just as WQi entered this wild and dreary waste, the sun 
rose in all its refulgence, converting, as if by magic, the 
whole of the eastern sky into one mass of the most dazzling 
light— tinting the distant mountains with a soft vermilion, 
and causing the dew-bespangled pebbles beneath our feet to 
sparkle like so many diamonds. He who has not witnessed 
a sunrise or a sunset in the tropics (rendered the more re- 
markable by the nearly total absence of twilight) can not 
form the least idea of its magnificence and splendor. 

But alas ! these sights, so lovely to the eye, are often fol- 
lowed by such intense heats as to be nearly insupportable to 
the way-worn traveler. We were now in the month of Sep- 
tember, and the rays of the sun, at noon falling almost ver- 
tically on our heads, caused a fearfully high state of temper- 
ature. The hot sand, moreover, cruelly burnt our feet, and 
not a breath of wind stirred the glaring and seething atmos- 
phere. To complete our misery, we suffered from the most 
violent thirst, which our scanty supply of water, half boiling 
as it was, could in no way tend to mitigate. 

Our poor animals seemed to suffer as much as ourselves. 
Their gait, protruding tongues, and drooping heads indicated 
great distress. Still they toiled on, but slowly and painfully, 
through the sand, which had now become soft and yielding. 
Long before we had accomplished the day's stage, one of the 
mules dropped down from exhaustion, and we were obliged 



52 ARRIVAL AT DAVIEP. 

to leave the poor animal to its fate, trusting, however, that 
when the atmosphere should become a little cooler, it would 
follow on our track. We dared not stop, nor would delay 
have been of any avail, for as far as the eye could reach 
neither bush nor blade of grass was to be seen. 

In the early morning I rode one of the horses, but after a 
time, observing that some of the men looked jaded and faint, 
I dismounted, and gave it up to them, proceeding myself on 
foot during the remainder of the day. Mr. Galton had rid- 
den in advance on the other shore, and when we met I was 
almost speechless from thirst, with my mouth and lips dread- 
fully parched. Often subsequently have I suffered cruelly 
from want of water, and for a much longer period than on 
the present occasion, but never do I remember to have been 
so much distressed as now; for though from childhood ac- 
customed and inured to privations of all kinds, I haU not pre- 
viously experienced the effect of thirst under a tropical sun. 

Again we left our cart some little way from the river, and 
drove the thirsty and weary animals loose to the water, which 
was fortunately not far distant ; but, though men and beasts 
drank to repletion, the water seemed to have lost its prop- 
erty, for our best endeavors to slake our thirst proved una- 
vailing. 

The name of the place was Daviep, and it was reported 
to be a favorite resort of lions, who regularly reared their 
young in a neighboring mountain, called Tineas, whence they 
made predatory excursions. We accordingly lost no time in 
reconnoitring the ground; but, not finding any indications 
of the presence of lions, or even that they had haunted the 
place lately, we had little apprehension of their paying us a 
visit; and as the mules and horses sadly wanted rest and 
food, we deemed it advisable to leave them to themselves 
during the night, merely taking the precaution to "knee- 
halter" them. We paid dearly, however, for our too easy 
confidence. 



A HORSE AND MULE KILLED BY LIONS. 53 

As, on our return to the cart in the evening, the mule that 
had been left behind in the course of the day had not yet 
made her appearance, I and Stewardson, each mounting an 
ox, returned to the spot where she had last been seen. The 
animal, however, had disappeared ; and finding that her 
tracks led toward the river, where it would have been next 
to madness to follow her in the dark, we retraced our steps 
at once, trusting that instinct, which had made her go in 
search of water, would also be a guide in seeking her com- 
panions. 

. Early on the following morning one of the wagon-drivers 
was dispatched to the river to look after our animals, while 
Mr. Galton and myself followed at our ease ; but what was 
our horror, on entering the bed of the stream, to find that 
several lions had recently passed and repassed it in every di- 
rection! This, together with the absence of the mules and 
horses, at once foreboded evil. We were not long left to 
conjectures, for almost immediately our servant joined us, 
and said that a mule and a horse had been killed by the 
lions, and partly devoured. He added, that on his approach- 
ing the scene of the catastrophe, he saw five of those beasts 
feasting on the carcasses, but on perceiving him they had 
retreated with terrible growlings ! Instead of his presence 
having scared the lions from their prey, however, as he as- 
serted, we had reason to believe that, so soon as he was 
aware of them, he immediately hid himself among the rocks, 
and that it was not until emboldened by seeing us he had 
left his hiding-place. Had it been otherwise, he would have 
had ample time to give us notice of what had occurred prior 
to our leaving the encampment. 

Singularly enough, the dead mule was the identical one 
we had been in search of on the preceding night, and it 
would appear that it had just rejoined its companions, or was 
on the point of doing so, when it was attacked and killed. 
Being a remarkably fine and handsome animal, its loss was 



54 THE AUTHOR GOES IN PURSUIT. 

much regretted : the horse, moreover, was the best of the 
two we had brought from the Cape. 

On examining the ground, we were glad to find that the 
other horse and remaining mule had made good their escape 
down the bed of the river, though evidently pursued by the 
lions for some distance. How many of these beasts there 
really had been we were unable to ascertain, but they could 
not have been less than seven or eight. 

Having thus far ascertained the fate of the poor animals, 
we dispatched our brave wagon-driver for Stewardson and 
the remainder of the men, as also for proper guns and 
ammunition, as we had determined, if possible, to have our 
revenge. 

On leaving Scheppmansdorf, we had, unfortunately, only 
brought with us three or four small goats as provision for the 
journey. This scanty supply was now nearly exhausted, and 
it being uncertain when we should meet with any native 
village where we could barter for more, we deemed it ad- 
visable, in order to provide against contingencies, to lay in a 
store of mule-flesh and horse-flesh ; and though our people 
seemed horror-stricken at the idea, there was not a second 
alternative. While waiting the return of the men, we ac- 
cordingly set about cutting off from the slain animals such 
pieces as had not been defiled by the lions. This being 
accomplished, we covered the meat with a heap of stones, 
and the men having arrived, we proceeded in search of the 
depredators. 

But, though we beat both sides of the river for a consider- 
able distance, we were unable to discover the beasts. At 
one time, and when I was quite alone on the inner side of 
the thick reed-bed that lined the bank, I observed some 
beautiful " klip-springers," or mountain gazelles, and fired both 
barrels, though, unfortunately, without effect. The report of 
my gun caused a momentary consternation to Mr. Galton 
and the men, who imagined that I had fallen in with the 



TKOOP OP LIONS. 55 

lions, while, from the nature of the ground, they would have 
been unable to render me any assistance. 

Being at last obliged to give up the search, two or three 
of the men on whom we could best depend were sent on the 
tracks of the scared mules and the remaining horse. After 
many hours' hard walking they were discovered, but the 
poor beasts had received such a fright that it was only with 
great trouble and exertion that they were secured. 

Thinking that the lions would in all probability return 
during the night to make an end of what was left of the 
horse and mule, Galton and I determined to watch for them, 
and selected for our ambush the summit of a steep rock im- 
mediately near one of the carcasses. 

Shortly after sunset we proceeded to put our plan into 
execution, and, having arrived within a short distance of 
the slain animals, one of the people suddenly exclaimed, " Oh ! 
look at the six bucks!" Imagine our astonishment when, 
turning our eyes in the direction to which he pointed, we saw, 
instead of antelopes, six magnificent lions ; and this, more- 
over, on the very rock on which we had purposed ambush- 
ing ourselves, and where, as we foolishly imagined, we should 
have been in perfect security ! 

On perceiving that they were discovered, the beasts re- 
treated behind the rock, but one or another of them would 
nevertheless steal from its hiding-place occasionally and take 
a peep at us. 

Contrary to the counsel of Mr. Galton and others of our 
party, I now ascended the acclivity where we had last seen 
the beasts ; but, although they were nowhere visible, I had 
every reason to believe the whole troop was not far distant 
from the spot where I stood. 

To have ambushed ourselves in the rock originally select- 
ed was (from the evidence we had just had of its insecurity) 
not now to be thought of, and we therefore looked out for a 
safer place. The only one that offered, however, was a large 



56 



MK. HAHN MULES FLESH PALATABLE. 



acacia ; but it was more than two hundred yards from either 
of the carcasses, and its stem was so thick and straight that 
it was impossible to ascend it. Moreover, total darkness had 
now succeeded the short twilight ; and, however reluctant- 
ly, we left the lions in full possession of the field and the rem- 
nant of their prey. 

On returning to our encampment, we found a wagon had 
arrived, belonging to Mr. Hahn, a missionary of the Rhenish 
Society, settled among the Damaras. The vehicle was on its 
road to Scheppmansdorf, in order to fetch some goods that 
had recently arrived from the Cape. The driver civilly sup- 
plied us with a few sheep, which, to the great joy of our peo- 
ple, enabled us to dispense with the store of horse-flesh and 
mule-flesh we had just laid in. We did not, however, throw 
the meat away altogether, for both Mr. Galton and myself 
subsequently dined upon it on more than one occasion, and 
really found it very palatable, more especially that of the 
horse. 



CHAPTER IV. 

The Gnoo and the Gemsbok. — ^Pursuit of a Rhinoceros. — Venomous 
Fly. — ^Fruit of the Acacia nutritious. — Sun-stroke. — Crested Parrot. 
— ^A Giraffe shot. — Tjobis Fountain. — Singular Omelet. — Nutritious 
Gum. — ^Arrival at Richterfeldt. — Mr. Rath and the Missions. — The 
Damaras : their Persons, Habits, &c. — Lions Troublesome. — Panic. 
— Horse Sickness. 

The second morning after the adventure with the Rons 
we continued our journey, alternately on the banks and in 
the bed of the Swakop. The road was exceedingly heavy, 
being for the most part composed of loose gravel and fine 
sand. Stewardson, who had the management of our travel- 
ing arrangements, instead of starting us at daybreak, or 
previously, as he ought to have done, did not put the caval- 
cade in motion until an hour after sunrise. The consequence 



PURSUIT OF A RHINOCEROS. 57 

was, that before we were half through the allotted stage the 
sun had reached its zenith, and scorched and harassed us 
dreadfully. 

As yet, with the exception of a few zebras, &c., we had 
seen no wild animals, though the " spoor" or track of the 
gnoo and the gemsbok were frequent enough. This day, 
however, at a turn of the road, we came suddenly upon a 
few of the latter, but the sight so fascinated us that, instead 
of firing, as we might have done, for they were within range, 
we gazed at them in astonishment. 

We passed the night at a fountain called Annis, situated 
on the side of the river. On the following morning, and at 
only a few hundred paces from our bivouac, we discovered 
the tracks of several rhinoceroses. Finding that one of these 
animals had been drinking in a pool hard by during the 
latter part of the night, Galton, Stewardson, and myself 
went in search of the beast, the cart following in the bed of 
the river. But, though we pursued the tracks of the animal 
at a pretty rapid pace for nearly three hours, we were un- 
able to come up with him, and therefore discontinued the 
chase in despair and rejoined our caravan. 

During the following day I observed several curious-look- 
ing crested parrots of a grayish color, which screamed dis- 
cordantly on our approach; but as they always perched on 
the top of the very highest trees, and kept an excellent look- 
out, I could not possibly get within gunshot. 

I met, besides, with a vast number of delicate and pretty 
butterflies, as also a wasp-looking fly of the most brilliant 
dark blue. Having struck one of these to the ground, I was 
about to secure it, when it stung me severely in the hand, 
and in a very few seconds the wounded part began to fester, 
and swelled to an enormous size, causing the most acute pain. 

While following the bed of the river, our mules and cattle 
fared sumptuously ; for, although we found but little grass, 
there was always an abundance of fine young reods ; but, 

C2 



58 THE ACACIA-TREE SUN-STROKE. 

until animals are accustomed to this diet, it only serves to 
weaken them. Cattle, however, that are used to this coarse 
food soon become fat, and when killed prove, contrary to 
what might be expected, capital eating. When the reeds 
become somewhat old and dry they are fired by the natives, 
and in a fortnight or three weeks they have again attained 
a luxuriant growth. 

The pods of a species of acacia (ana), which had drop- 
ped from the trees, were also much relished by the cattle. 
Stewardson informed us that when the latter are able to feed 
on them regularly, they soon become fat. The fruit has an 
acrid taste, but is not altogether unpalatable. 

The wood of this tree, though straight-grained, close, and 
weighty, is not considered good for implements of husbandry. 
I have been assured, however, that when the tree is burned 
down the quality of the wood is much improved ! 

Stewardson's habit of starting late had nearly proved fatal 
to me ; for one day, while pursuing on foot some interesting 
birds, I had fallen considerably behind my companions, and, 
in order to come up with them, I was necessitated to put my 
best foot forward. The sun's rays (in themselves exceedingly 
powerful) being reflected from the surrounding barren hills 
and the burning sand, made the heat equal to that of an 
oven. 

I had only just caught sight of our party, when I was 
seized with sudden giddiness, and the horrible idea flashed 
across my mind that I had received a " sun-stroke." Being 
fully aware of the danger, I collected all my energies, and 
made the most strenuous efforts to overtake my friend. But 
the stupor increased every moment, and my voice became so 
faint that for a long time I was unable to make myself 
heard. However, I did at last succeed, and Galton at once 
rode up to me and placed his horse at my disposal. It was 
high time, for another minute would probably have proved 
too late. As it was, I managed with great difficulty to reach 



CKESTED PARROT GIRAFFE SHOT. 59 

a small clump of trees hard by, and, tumbling off the animal, 
remained for some time in a state of almost total unconscious- 
ness. When at last I recovered from this stupor, the heat 
was less, and a gentle breeze having sprung up, I was able 
slowly to proceed. My head, however, ached intolerably. 

The usual result of a coup de soleil is known to be either 
almost instantaneous death, or an affection of the brain for 
life. In my case I expected nothing short of the latter in- 
fliction. Happily, however, after about several months daily 
suffering I was thoroughly restored, and in time I could brave 
heat and fatigue as well as any native. 

Having followed the course of the Swakop for some days, 
we struck into one of its tributaries called Tjobis. At the 
mouth of this stream we met, for the first time, with a vast 
number of Guinea-fowls, which we afterward found very 
common throughout the country. We also made acquaint- 
ance with one or two species of toucans ; and I succeeded, at 
last, in obtaining several specimens of the parrot-looking 
birds of which mention has lately been made. They were 
the chizoerhis concolor of Doctor Smith. 

After many hours of fatiguing travel we met Galton, who 
had ridden on in advance. His face beamed with delight 
while announcing to us that he had just killed a fine giraffe. 
The news was most welcome to every one ; for, to say noth- 
ing of the prospect of a feast, the heat of the sun and the 
heavy nature of the ground made us all feel exceedingly 
weary, and we were, therefore, extremely glad of a pretext 
to take some repose. 

The mules were forthwith unharnessed, and all hands 
were put in requisition to cut up our prize and to "jerk" the 
meat ; but this proved lean and tough. 

The bones, however, of the giraffe contain a great deal of 
marrow, which, when properly prepared, is eaten with gusto 
by every one, and even when in a raw state is sometimes 
greedily devoured by the natives. 



60 TJOBIS FOUNTAIN SINGULAR OMELET. 

As there was no water where we had " outspanned," we 
were obliged toward evening to continue our journey ; and 
when we arrived at "Tjobis Fountain," situated in the bed 
of the Tjobis River, it was already dark. 

Here we were at once visited by several Hill-Damaras, of 
whom more hereafter. On finding that a giraffe had been 
killed and that they were at liberty to take what flesh we 
had left, their joy knew no bounds, and some of them actu- 
ally returned that same night to the carcass. These men 
kindly brought us some sweet gum, a kind of coarse stir- 
about made from the seeds of a species of grass, and a few 
ostrich eggs. 

Our cook soon made us an excellent omelet from one of 
the last, and that by a very simple process. A hole is made 
at one end of the egg, through which is introduced some 
salt, pepper, &c. The egg is then well shaken, so as thor- 
oughly to mix the white, the yolk, and the several ingre- 
dients mentioned. It is then placed in the hot ashes, where 
it is baked to perfection. An egg thus prepared, although 
supposed to contain as much as twenty-four of the common 
fowl egg, is not considered too much for a single hungry in- 
dividual ! 

We remained nearly two days at *' Tjobis Fountain," 
which gave our animals time to recover a little from their 
late exhaustion ; but as it was reported to be another favor- 
ite resort of lions, and recollecting that we had lately been 
taught a severe lesson, we took the precaution — as may well 
be imagined — to secure the horse and the mules during the 
night. Many zebras came off in the dark to drink, but al- 
ways absented themselves during the day, and the heat was 
too intense and harassing for pursuing them at a distance. 

The soil continued sandy as before, but the vegetation 
had, notwithstanding, vastly improved ; for, instead of naked 
and desolate plains, the ground was now covered with a pro- 
fusion of thin grass, dwarfish shrubs, isolated aloes, and one 



NUTRITIOUS GUM ^ARRIVAL AT RICHTERFELDT. 61 

or two species of thorn trees. The latter produced at this 
season an abundance of excellent and nutritious gum, which, 
though almost as sweet as sugar, might be partaken of in 
any quantity without the least inconvenience or disagreeable 
consequence. 

In the afternoon of the third day we took our departure 
from " Tjobis Fountain," and at an early hour on the fol- 
lowing morning found ourselves once more in the bed of the 
Swakop ; but here, unfortunately, our mules came to a dead 
stand-still, and nothing could induce them to proceed any 
further. Indeed, they were completely knocked up, and we 
had entirely to thank Stewardson for this misfortune ; for 
had we traveled by night, as we ought to have done, instead 
of during the hottest part of the day, the poor creatures 
might have been as fresh as when they left Scheppmansdorf, 
and we ourselves spared much suffering. It stands to rea- 
son that no animal, however hardy, will bear much work or 
fatigue in the day at this terribly hot season of the year. 
Fortunately, the missionary station of Kichterfeldt was now 
within two hours* ride, and Galton at once pushed on for 
the purpose of obtaining assistance. In a short time, six 
oxen, with attendants, yokes, &c., arrived, and we were able 
to prosecute our journey without further delay. On reach- 
ing the station, we were most kindly and hospitably received 
by the Rev. Mr. Rath, of the Rhenish Society. 

Richterfeldt is prettily situated on the bank of the River 
Swakop, and at the junction of one of its tributaries, the 
Ommutenna. It is well supplied with fresh water, which is 
either obtained from a prolific mineral spring, or by digging 
a few inches in the bed of the rivers. There is an abundance 
of garden ground, which, when properly cultivated and irri- 
gated, is exceedingly productive. Nearly all European vege- 
tables thrive well ; wheat grows to perfection, and is of excel- 
lent quality ; but here, as at Scheppmansdorf, floods at times 
cause sad havoc. The pasturages are extensive and excellent. 



62 IVnSSIONARY STATION THE DAMARAS. 

Ricliterfeldt was founded in 1848, and Mr. Rath had 
consequently not been very long settled there. He had 
taken up his quarters in a temporary hut, consisting of a 
mud wall four feet high, covered over by mat-work and 
canvas. At the back of his house were three small native 
villages, composed of about fifty or sixty wretched hovels, 
gmd numbering — children included — about two hundred in- 
habitants. They were all very poor ; but a few possessed a 
small drove of sheep or goats, which they obtained in barter 
for goods given them by the missionary as recompense for 
labor, errands, and other services. The currency is iron- 
ware : the regular price for an ox, at this time, was an iron 
assegai, without the handle ; that of a sheep or goat, a cer- 
tain quantity of iron or copper wire, or two pieces of iron 
hoop, each five or six inches in length. The Damaras have 
a perfect mania for copper and iron, but more especially for 
the latter ; and it is strange to see how well a few pieces of 
polished iron become them, when worn as ornaments. 

The Damaras, speaking generally, are an exceedingly fine 
race of men. Indeed, it is by no means unusual to meet 
with individuals six feet and some inches in height, and sym- 
metrically proportioned withal. Their features are, besides, 
good and regular ; and many might serve as perfect models 
of the human figure. Their air and carriage, moreover, is 
very graceful and expressive. But, though their outward 
appearance denotes great strength, they can by no means 
compare, in this respect, with even moderately strong Euro- 
peans. 

The complexion of these people is dark, though not en- 
tirely black ; but great difference is observable in this respect. 
Hence, in their own language, they distinguish between the 
Ovathorondu — the black individuals — and Ovatherandu, or red 
ones. Their eyes are black, but the expression is rather soft. 

I never saw any albinos in Damara-land, though such are 
said to occur amono; the Caffres. 



THE DAMARASo 



63 




DAMARAS. 



64 COSTUME. 

The women are often of the most delicate and symmetrical 
shape, with full and rounded forms, and very small hands 
and feet. Nevertheless, from their precarious mode of life, 
and constant exposure to the sun, &c., any beauty they pos- 
sess is soon lost ; and, in a more advanced age, many become 
the most hideous of human beings. 

Both sexes are exceedingly filthy in their habits. Dirt 
often accumulates to such a degree on their persons as to 
make the color of their skin totally indistinguishable ; while, 
to complete the disguise, they smear themselves with a pro- 
fusion of red ochre and grease. Hence the exhalation hover- 
ing about them is disgusting in the extreme. 

Neither men nor women wear much clothing. Their ha- 
biliments consist merely of a skin or two of sheep or goats, 
with the hair on or off, which they wrap loosely round the 
waist, or throw across the shoulders. These skins, as with 
their own limbs, are besmeared with large quantities of red 
ochre and grease, and with the wealthier classes are orna- 
mented with coarse iron and copper beads, of vai'ious size. 

The men usually go bareheaded; but, in case of cold 
or rain, they wear a sort of cap, or rather piece of skin, 
which they can convert into any shape or size that fancy 
may dictate. 

Independently of the skins, the women wear a kind of bod- 
ice, made from thousands of little rounded pieces of ostrich 
egg-shells strung on threads, seven or eight such strings be- 
ing fastened together ; but I am not sure that it is not more 
for ornament than real utility. The head-dress of the mar- 
ried women is curious and highly picturesque, being not un- 
like a helmet in shape and general appearance. 

Boys are usually seen in a state of almost absolute nudity. 
The girls, however, wear a kind of apron, cut up into a num- 
ber of fine strings, which are sometimes ornamented with iron 
and copper beads. 

Few ornaments are worn by the men, who prefer seeing 



PERSONAL DECORATION ^WEAPONS. 65 

them on the persons of their wives and daughters. They de- 
light, however, in an amazing quantity of thin leathern 
" riems" (forming also part of their dress), which they wind 
around their loins in a negligent and graceful manner. These 
"riems" — which are often many hundred feet in length — 
serve as a receptacle for their knobsticks or kieries, their ar- 
rows, &c., but become, at the same time, a refuge for the 
most obnoxious insects. 

The women, when they can afford it, wear a profusion of 
iron and copper rings — those of gold or brass are held in little 
estimation — round their waists and ankles. 

The weapons of the Damaras are the assegai, the kierie, 
and the bow and arrow ; they have also a few guns. 

The head of the assegai consists of iron, and is usually kept 
well polished ; being, moreover, of a soft texture, it is easily 
sharpened, or repaired, if out of order. The shaft, though, 
at times, also made of iron, is commonly of wood, the end be- 
ing usually ornamented with a bushy ox-tail. On account 
of its great breadth, the assegai is not well adapted for stab- 
bing, and its weight is such that it can not be thrown to any 
considerable distance. This weapon, in short, is chiefly used 
instead of a knife, and, though rather an awkward substitute, 
it answers the purpose tolerably well. 

The kierie is a favorite weapon with the Damaras. They 
handle it with much adroitness, and kill birds and small 
quadrupeds with surprising dexterity. Most savage tribes in 
Southern Africa use this instrument with great advantage 
and effect. Thus, in speaking of the Matabili, Harris says, 
"They rarely miss a partridge or a Guinea-fowl on the 
wing." In an experienced hand, the kierie becomes a most 
dangerous and effective weapon, as a single well-directed 
blow is sufficient to lay low the strongest man. 

The bow and arrow, on the other hand, though a constant 
companion, is not, with the Damaras, as effective as it ought 
to be. They never attain perfection in archery. At ten or 



66 DIVISION OF TRIBES LIONS TROUBLESOME. 

a dozen yards they will shoot tolerably well, but beyond 
that distance they are wretched marksmen. 

The Damaras are divided into two large tribes, the Ovahe- 
rero and the Ovapantiereu, of which the former lives nearest 
to the sea ; still, with the exception of a slight difference in 
the language, they appear to be one and the same people. 
They may again be divided into rich and poor Damaras,* or 
those who subsist on the produce of their herds, and those 
who have no cattle, or at least very few, and who live chief- 
ly by the chase, and what wild fruit and roots they can pick 
up abroad. These are called Ovatjimba, and are looked upon 
with the utmost contempt by the prosperous classes, who re- 
duce them to a state of slavery, and do not even scruple to 
take their lives. 

But, as the Damaras are little known to Europeans, much 
is to be said of them, and they will require a chapter to 
themselves. I shall, therefore, reserve a more detailed ac- 
count of their peculiarities, customs, manners, &c., to a later 
period, when I became better acquainted with them and their 
country. 

In consequence of an unusually severe drought this year, 
most of the rain-pools in the neighborhood of Richterfeldt 
were dried up ; but as spring-water was still to be found at 
that place, a great number of wild animals nightly congre- 
gated there. As usual under such circumstances, the game 
was followed by troops of lions, who were a constant annoy- 
ance to us. To guard against their attacks, we had on our 
first arrival made a strong fence or inclosure round the 
camp, but even then we did not feel very secure. 

One evening these beasts were more than usually trouble- 
some. The sun had hardly sunk below the horizon when 
they began their terror-striking music, and kept it up with- 

* To prevent confusion, when speaking hereafter of these people, I 
shall simply call them Damaras, in contradistinction to the Hill-Da- 
maras, who are a totally different race of natives. 



THE LIONS— A PANIC 67 

out intermission till a late hour, when all became silent. Be- 
lieving that they had taken themselves off, I sent the men 
who had been watching to sleep. I was, however, deceived ; 
for two hours had hardly elapsed when within a short dis- 
tance of our encampment, there arose a most horrible roar- 
ing, intermingled with the rushing to and fro, the kicking, 
plunging, and neighing of a troop of zebras, which instantly 
brought every man to his feet, and the consternation and 
confusion became indescribable. Some of them rushed about 
like maniacs, lamenting most piteously that they ever left 
the Cape. Others convulsively grasped their blankets in 
their arms, and cried like children ; while a few stood motion- 
less, with fear and anguish depicted in their countenances. 
It was in vain that I tried to calm their agitation. They 
seemed fully convinced that their last hour had come, and 
that they should perish miserably by the fangs of wild beasts. 

On going just outside the inclosure, I could distinctly see 
the glimmering of lions' eyes, as our small, well-kept bivouac- 
fire fell full upon them. I sent a ball or two after the in- 
truders, but, as it appeared afterward, without effect. 

The next morning we found that the zebras had escaped 
unscathed, and we attributed the unusual anger and ferocity 
of their pursuers to the disappointment they had experienced 
in losing their favorite prey. 

We had only been a short time at Richterfeldt when three 
of our mules, and the remaining horse, were seized with a 
mortal disease, and in the course of a few hours they all died. 
Though the loss of the animals was great to us, their death 
was a god-send to the poor Damaras, who devoured the car- 
casses bodily, and without the least disagreeable result. 

The distemper in question is usually known by the vague 
name of " paarde-sikte" (the horse-sickness); and, as the 
cause is totally unknown, no remedy has yet been found 
efficient to stop it. Throughout Great Namaqua-land it is 
particularly fatal. Some people attribute this singular dis- 



68 



HOESE-SICKNESS HANS LAHSEN- 



ease to poisonous herbs, of which the animals have inad- 
vertently partaken; others, to the dew; and others, again, 
to the eating the young grass;* but all these suppositions 
are highly improbable, for reasons which it would be un- 
necessary to enter into here. 

Fatal as the disease is to horses, yet, happily, there are 
places (even in districts where it commits the greatest rav- 
ages) that are always exempt from it. And, as these locali- 
ties are well known to the natives, if one's horse be sent to 
them prior to the commencement of the sickly season — usu- 
ally the months of November and December — the animals in- 
variably escape the malady. The attack of our animals was 
an unusual exception to this rule, for they fell victims to the 
disease fully a month prior to the rainy season. 

From the Orange River on the south, and as far north as 
Europeans have penetrated from the Cape side, this deadly 
disease is known to prevail, and is one of the greatest draw- 
backs to successful traveling in South Africa. 



CHAPTER V. 

Hans Larsen. — His Exploits. — He joins the Expedition. — How people 
travel on Ox-back. — Rhinoceros Hunt. — Death of the Beast. — 
"Look before you Leap." — Anecdote proving the Truth of the Prov- 
erb. — Hans and the Lion. — The Doctor in Difficulties. — Sufferings 
on the Naarip Plain. — Arrival at Scheppmansdorf. 

When at the Cape we heard much of an individual named 
Hans Larsen, who was distinguished in a very remai'kable 
degree for courage, energy, perseverance, and endurance. 
This man was a Dane by birth, and a sailor by profession ; 

* A similar notion prevails with regard to that most curious little 
animal, the lemming (leinmus norvegicus, "Worm.), on whose m3Steri- 
ous appearance and disappearance so many hypotheses have been un- 
satisfactorily expended. See Lloyd's '' Scandinavian Adventures," 
vol. ii., chap. v. 



HANS LAESEN HIS GREAT STRENGTH. 69 

but, becoming disgusted with a seafaring life, had a few years 
previously left his ship, and was now residing somewhere near 
to Walfisch Bay. 

On visiting Mr. Bam at Scheppmansdorf, that gentleman 
confirmed to the full all we had been told about Hans, and 
strongly recommended Mr. Galton to take him into his serv- 
ice. It was not, however, until our arrival at Richterfeldt, 
where Hans then resided, that we had an opportunity to make 
his personal acquaintance. Up to a rather recent period he 
had been in charge of a herd of cattle, but he was now liv- 
ing independently on the produce of his live-stock and the 
spoils of the chase. 

Hans was a fine specimen of the true Northman — fair 
complexion, light hair, blue eyes ; and, though not above the 
ordinary stature, he was very muscular, and powerfully built. 
His strength, indeed, almost exceeded belief. One of his 
feats was to carry an enormous anvil — which no ordinary 
man could lift from the ground — with as many persons as 
could possibly cling to it. On one occasion he had borne 
from place to place a block of stone which required ten men 
to lift on to his shoulders ! 

In consequence of his great strength and courage, he was 
much feared by the natives, who nevertheless took pleasure 
in teasing him ; but, being of a very quiet disposition, he sel- 
dom resented their impertinences. One day, however, when 
they had carried their jokes somewhat too far, he raised his 
Herculean fist, and with a single blow leveled to the ground 
the nearest of his tormentors. At first it was thought that 
the man was killed ; but, fortunately, he was only stunned. 
On recovering from his stupor he vowed vengeance; but, 
unable to carry out his purpose alone, he laid his complaint 
before the chief of the tribe, and a " raad," or counsel, was 
held. Many were for severe punishment ; but at last, when 
all the members had spoken, the chief rose and told them 
that, in his opinion, the offense should be passed over, and 



70 HANS ENGAGED AS HEAD MAN. 

that, for the future, it would be better not to molest Hans, 
for if they did they would only fare worse. This advice 
was felt to be a prudent caution, and from that day forward 
they ceased to worry the Dane. 

Hans was an excellent and indefatigable sportsman, and 
so successful that, though the country, on his first arrival, lit- 
erally teemed with rhinoceroses, lions, giraffes, zebras, gnoos, 
gemsboks, &c., he had all but exterminated them. 

To give the reader some idea of the abundance of game 
and wild beasts then existing in this part of Africa, I may 
mention than Hans once shot, with his own hand, no less 
than nine rhinoceroses in the course of a single day.^ 

Hans ate very little animal food, but, whenever he could 
afford it, he drank an amazing quantity of tea and coffee. 
His chief nourishment, however, was thick sour milk, which 
he swallowed in gallons. It is wonderful how people thrive 
on this diet, which is the main sustenance of the Damaras, 
who, as has been already said, are remarkably fine-looking 
men. 

Hans, on the proposal being made to him by Mr. Galton, 
agreed to accompany us in the capacity of head man, and 
we were truly fortunate to secure so able and practiced a 
hand. Indeed, from after-experience, it is very doubtful 
whether we should have been able to get on without him. 
We had, moreover, found that it would be next to impossi- 
ble to obtain from the natives, by barter, any considerable 
number of cattle ; and, even had we succeeded, they would 
have been so wild and unmanageable that we could not have 
made use of them for months. Now, as Hans had a small 
drove of his own, several of which were already broken-in, 
and the rest more or less tractable, and was willing to part 
with them at a moderate price, Mr. Galton secured the whole 

* His hunting dress on these occasions consisted simply of a thick, 
coarse blue shirt or blouse, secured by a belt round his waist, contain- 
ing his balls, caps, wadding, &c. 



RIDING ON OX-BACK. 71 

lot without a moment's hesitation, and thus we had overcome 
a difficulty which had long given us some uneasiness. 

Hans had in his employ an English lad named John Al- 
len, who had also been a sailor, and who, like his master, 
had left his ship in .Walfisch Bay. In the absence of his 
employer, John had been accustomed to take charge of the 
cattle and the house; and, being an excellent and well-be- 
haved youth, he also was admitted into Mr. Galton's service. 

After a few day's rest, it was determined that Hans and 
myself, together with most of the people, should return to 
Scheppmansdorf for the purpose of breaking-in the oxen, 
and bringing up the wagons and the stores. 

Hans presented me with an ox called " Spring," which I 
afterward rode upward of two thousand miles. On the day 
of our departure he mounted us all on oxen, and a curious 
sight it was to see some of the men take their seats who had 
never before ridden on ox-back. It is impossible to guide an 
ox as one would guide a horse, for in the attempt to do so 
you would instantly jerk the stick out of his nose, which at 
once deprives you of every control over the beast ; but by 
pulling both sides of the bridle at the same time, and toward 
the side you wish him to take, he is easily managed. Your 
seat is not less awkward and difficult ; for the skin of the ox, 
unlike that of the horse, is loose, and, notwithstanding your 
saddle may be tightly girthed, you keep rocking to and fro 
like a child in a cradle. A few days, however, enables a 
person to acquire a certain steadiness, and long habit will do 
the rest. 

Ox-traveling, when once a man is accustomed to it, is not 
so disagreeable as might be expected, particularly if one suc- 
ceeds in obtaining a tractable animal. On emergences, an ox 
can be made to proceed at a tolerably quick pace ; for, though 
his walk is only about three miles an hour at an average, he 
may be made to perform double that distance in the same 
time. Mr. Galton once accomplished twenty-four miles in 
four hours, and that, too, through heavy sand ! 



72 EHINOCEKOS HUNT. 

Early one morning we reached Annis Fountain, where, as 
on a previous occasion, we observed a number of rhinoceros 
tracks. Leaving the men to take care of the oxen, Hans, 
Stewardson, and myself selected the freshest " spoor," and 
started off in pursuit ; but after several hours' hard walking 
under a burning sun, we were apparently as far from the 
quarry as ever, and Stewardson, who was quite knocked up, 
used his best endeavors to persuade us from proceeding far- 
ther. We would not listen to him, however, but, allowing 
him to return to the encampment, continued to toil on, 
though with but little hope of success. 

An hour might have elapsed after we had thus parted 
from Stewardson when I observed in a distant glen a dark 
object, which, as it excited my suspicion, I instantly pointed 
out to Hans, who would not believe that it was any thing 
but a large " boulder." Nevertheless, we proceeded toward 
the spot, and I soon saw that the shapeless mass was nothing 
less than the rhinoceros of which we were in search. Hans, 
however, who had had frequent opportunities of seeing this 
animal in all positions, remained skeptical on the point, and 
it was not till we were within about twenty paces of the 
beast that his doubts were removed. With noiseless and 
quickened step, and our guns on the fullest cock, we made up 
to the monster, which still gave no signs of life. At last, 
however, one of us whistled, on which, and with the rapidity 
of thought, the beast sat up on its haunches, and surveyed us 
with a curious and sulky look. But it was only a moment ; 
for, before he had time to get on his legs, two well-directed 
balls laid him prostrate within less than half a dozen paces 
of our feet. 

In the prid^ of success, I somewhat foolishly leaped upon 
his back, and, African-like, plunged my hunting-knife into 
the flesh, to ascertain if our prize was fat. But whether life 
was not altogether extinct, or that the sudden access of my 
weight caused a vibration in the lately-living body, certain it 



AN UNEXPECTED RIDE. 73 

is that I felt the beast move under me, when, as may be sup- 
posed, I speedily jumped to the ground again, and made off. 
Though my apprehensions in this instance were groundless, 
the following anecdote, related to me by the natives, will 
show that there is considerable danger in too quickly ap- 
proaching an apparently dead rhinoceros :* 

Some Namaquas had shot one of these animals as it was 
rising from its sleep. One of the party, imagining the beast 
to be dead, straightway went up to it and (with like object 
as myself) acted precisely as I had done. The beast, how- 
ever, had only been stunned, and, as soon as he felt the cold 
steel enter his body, he started to his feet and made off at full 
speed. This action was so instantaneous as to prevent the 
man from dismounting, and the other Namaquas were par- 
alyzed with fear. Fortunately, however, after the beast had 
run forty or fifty paces, he suddenly stopped short and looked 
round. The favorable opportunity was not lost ; for one of 
the party, more courageous than the rest, instantly fired, and, 
as good luck would have it, brought the animal to the ground, 
with his terror-stricken rider still clinging to his back. 

On rejoining our party, Stewardson was not a little sur- 
prised at our success, and mortified at his own want of perse- 
verance. The flesh of the rhipoceros was poor but not un- 
palatable, and we remained a day at Annis to cut up and 
dry part of it as provision for the journey. We also carried 
away a goodly supply of the beast's hide for the purpose of 
converting it into ^' shamboks."| 

* Most animals, when shot or otherwise killed, fall on their sides ; 
but the rhinoceros is often an exception to this rule : at least such is 
my experience. In nine cases out of ten, of all those I have killed 
during my wanderings in Africa — and they amount to upward of one 
hundred — I found them on their knees, with the fore parts of their 
ponderous heads resting on the ground. 

t The " shambok" (a Dutch term) consists of a strip of the stout- 
est part of the hide of the rhinoceros or the hippopotamus. After 
being stretched on the ground, and when it has acquired a certain 

D 



74 "losing the way" the eule. 

One day, as I was riding with Hans, he pointed out to me 
a place where he had been attacked by a lion in broad day- 
light, pulled off his ox, and only escaped death by a miracle. 

Not being encumbered by a vehicle, we were now able to 
hold the course of the Swakop uninterruptedly ; but on ar- 
riving at the Usab gorge, it became necessary to leave the 
river and to cross the Naarip plain to Scheppmansdorf. 
From the great length of this stage (fifteen hours' actual 
travel), and the total absence of water and pasturage, it is 
necessary to traverse it during the night. As thick fogs and 
mists, however, are not uncommon here, the traveler is ex- 
posed to some risk. It not unfrequently happens that he 
loses the track ; the result of which usually is, that when the 
day breaks upon him he finds himself either back at the place 
from which he started or in some unknown part of the plain. 
Instances are narrated of people having remained in this in- 
hospitable desert as long as three days ! " Losing the way," 
as my friend Galton says, '• is the rule here and not the ex- 
ception ; and a person who has crossed the plain without do- 
ing so rather plumes himself upon the feat." 

Hans recited to me the particulars of an adventure which 
happened to a European in this wilderness. During the time 
Captain Greybourn (to whom allusion has already been made) 
was established at Walfisch Bay, the medical gentleman who 
resided with him had occasion to cross the Naarip plain ; but, 
being a total stranger to the country, he engaged a Hottentot 
as guide. The day proved hot and oppressive, and the way- 
farers had not proceeded far when the doctor felt faint and 

stiffness, the strip is subjected to a severe hammering, for the double 
purpose of condensing it and giving it a rounded shape. It is then 
reduced to the desired size by means of a knife or plane ; and, lastly, 
a piece of sand-paper, or glass, if at hand, is employed to give it the 
finishing smoothness and polish. The "shambok" is exceedingly 
tough and pliable, will inflict the most severe wounds and bruises, and 
will last for years. The price of one of these " whips," in the colony, 
varies from eighteen pence to as much as nine or ten shillings. 



THE doctor's adventure. 75 

thirsty. On inquiry of his attendant whether any water 
could be obtained, he received a sulky and unsatisfactory 
answer, and was about to prosecute his journey, when the 
man thus abruptly addressed him : 

"You've got a very nice hat, sir, which you must give 
me, or I will not stir another step." 

Under ordinary circumstances, to comply with such a re- 
quest would have been inconvenient, but it was still more 
annoying in the present instance, exposed as the doctor was 
to a scorching sun. Finding himself, however, entirely at 
the man's mercy, and seeing nothing but a howling wilder- 
ness all around him, he grudgingly gave the hat, hoping to 
be exempted from further importunity. But he was mis- 
taken in this matter ; for he had not proceeded much farther 
when the Hottentot sat himself quietly down on the sand, 
complaining bitterly of the immense distance they had yet to 
perform, adding, with a sly look at the doctor, that he 
thought his jacket would fit him exactly! The medical 
gentleman was amazed at the fellow's impudence, and at 
first refused this new demand ; but, as the man said that un- 
less he received the garment he would leave him to his fate, 
he was obliged to comply. 

In this manner he gradually divested the chicken-hearted 
doctor of his apparel, and would, in all probability, not have 
left him in possession of the shirt on his back had it not been 
for the timely arrival of Hans and another European, -then on 
their way to Walfisch Bay. The doctor's story was, of 
course, soon told, and the rascally Hottentot was not only 
deprived of his booty, but soundly thrashed into the bargain. 

After having given the animals the necessary rest, we set 
out the next afternoon, about three o'clock, on the last stage 
for Scheppmansdorf. As the evening was starlight, we pro- 
ceeded at a brisk pace till about midnight, when there sud- 
denly arose from the sea a gloomy, bitter cold mist, which 
soon enveloped us in total darkness, and completely saturated 



76 EETURN TO SCHEPPMANSDOEF. 

every article of our dress. Unfortunately, in the early part 
of the night we had purposely left the wagon-track to save 
a very circuitous part of the road, and we had now nothing 
to guide us. Still, we toiled on as well as we could. 

But we had great difficulty in getting the poor Damaras 
to keep pace with us, who, being naked, suffered extremely. 
Every ten minutes they would lie down on the cold sand, 
perfectly indifferent to the consequences. If we had not 
used the utmost vigilance in keeping them moving, I am 
quite convinced that some of them would have perished. 
Toward morning the cold became so intense that I was no 
longer capable of holding the reins, and therefore dismount- 
ed and proceeded on foot. Daybreak brought no relief, for 
the fog still prevented us from ascertaining our position. The 
instinct of the oxen, however, came to our rescue, and, by 
giving them their own way, they soon took us safely to our 
destination. 



CHAPTER VI. 



Return to Scheppmansdorf. — Training Oxen for the Yoke. — Sporting. 
— The Flamingo. — The Butcher-bird : curious Superstition regard- 
ing it. — Preparing for Journey. — Servants described. 

Mr. and Mrs. Bam and their family were, I was glad to 
find, in» good health, and, as heretofore, they gave me not 
only a most kind reception, but placed at my disposal the 
best of every thing which the house afforded. 

It is wonderful what habit and association will effect. 
When I visited Scheppmansdorf in the first instance, I 
thought it the most dismal spot that human eye ever rested 
on ; but in the short space of a few weeks it had almost 
become endeared to me. I found what Shakspeare calls the 
" soul of goodness in things evil." Dreariness was softened 
down into peaceful seclusion ; the savage country round 



TRAINING OXEN FOR THE YOKE. 77 

about assumed the dignity of primeval nature, fresh from the 
hand of the Creator ; and the solemn and stern night-silence 
only hushed me into sounder sleep. These feelings and this 
trusting repose mainly originated in the kind ministrations 
and unaffected welcome of sincere friends. 

After a day or two's rest we began the difficult and labo- 
rious task of breaking-in the oxen ; but it proved a much 
more difficult one than I had anticipated. While herded to- 
gether these animals looked tame and docile enough, but the 
instant they felt the lasso round their legs or horns their char- 
acter changed completely. 

The spirit of Damara cattle is fiery and wild in the ex- 
treme, and I have known many an ox which ten strong men 
were unable to manage. The only remedy in such a case is 
to lasso the beast by his legs and horns, and, after having 
thrown him down, to affix to his neck a heavy iron chain, of 
sufficient length to trail along the ground. The effect on the 
animal of this incumbrance is in some instances very remark- 
able ; for, instead of a wild, stubborn, and unbending brute, 
in a short time he is all docility. Indeed, it not unfrequent- 
ly happens that he becomes too lazy to be of any use. 

While at Scheppmansdorf, and whenever I could snatch a 
moment from my busy life, I never failed to shoulder my gun 
with a view of obtaining specimens of natural history or a 
" re-enforcement for the larder," and an hour's walk not un- 
frequently procured me a tolerable share of both. Ducks and 
geese, though somewhat shy, were by no means uncommon. 
Quadrupeds of every description, however, were scarce, yet 
I managed occasionally to bag a steinbok or a hare. 

Almost every morn we were visited by a splendid flock of 
pelicans, who kept soaring above the place for hours togeth- 
er ; now in wide, graceful circles, the next instant in a com- 
pact body, sometimes rising into the sky till they became 
nearly invisible, then suddenly sinking till they almost touch- 
ed the earth ; when abruptly, as if recollecting that the land 



78 THE FISCAAL PREPARING TO TRAVEL. 

was not their proper home, they would resume their airy sta- 
tion. They generally ended by settling near a large reedy 
fountain ; but they were very difficult of approach. 

The lanius subcoronatus, a species of shrike, first described 
by Dr. Andrew Smith, I found to be common at Schepp- 
mansdorf, as also the butcher-bird, which, as known, always 
impales its prey on some thorn or sharp-pointed stick before 
devouring it. The Cape people call this bird the " fiscaal," 
or magistrate, in consequence of a superstitious belief that it 
represents among the smaller animals what the judge does 
among men. Many even go farther, and say that the " fis- 
caal" only administers justice on a Friday; probably from 
the Dutch court of justice being held in former times on that 
particular day. 

Part of the oxen being at length pretty well trained to the 
yoke, we made preparations for our departure. 

When we left the Cape, the behef was entertained that 
we should be able to carry thirty or forty hundred weight 
on each wagon ; but on taking into account our young and 
wild cattle, and the sandy and heavy soil through which we 
should have to pass, we had, ere this, made up our minds to 
reduce the quantity to rather less than one third of this 
weight, or to about fifteen hundred pounds. Even this, as 
will be shortly seen, proved too great. Accordingly, every 
article was carefully weighed with the steelyard previously 
to being stowed away in the wagons. 

Before proceeding farther in my narrative, it may be 
proper to introduce to the reader our traveling establish- 
ment, as the character of the several individuals composing 
it had by this time become pretty well developed. And 
though among our retainers we had more than one "black 
sheep," and others whom it was exceedingly difficult to keep 
in order, yet, taking them together, they were probably a 
fair average of the servants likely to be picked up by the 
Afi'ican traveler. On an expedition similar to the one in 



SERVANTS. 79 

which we were engaged, I should remark, people can not be 
too particular in the selection of their attendants ; for, to say 
no':hing of the success of the undertaking, one's personal 
comfort mainly depends on their good behavior. 

First in order was a youth named Gabriel, a native of 
the Cape. He had been engaged by Galton chiefly for his 
smiling face and winning looks, but he proved himself to be 
the most troublesome of the whole lot. In our journey up 
the country he had already exhibited a vindictive temper 
and quarrelsome disposition, which at length broke forth 
with increased violence. On two separate occasions he at- 
tempted, if I was rightly informed, the lives of his fellow- 
servants. Upon this atrocity, I spoke to him with earnest 
reprobation, and trusted that I had produced some effect; 
when, to my astonishment and mortification, the very next 
day he was guilty of the same outrage. After a dispute 
with one of his companions, he rushed upon him with a 
hatchet, and would undoubtedly have cleft his skull had it 
not been for a Hottentot, who warded oiF the blow. So lit- 
tle did the young villain think of the crime he had intended 
to perpetrate, that upon receiving punishment he had the 
impudence to remonstrate, and to ask why he was flogged ! 

Next in order came Abraham Wenzel (a native also, I 
believe, of Cape-Town), a wheelwright by trade, and by habit 
a thief. Even before leaving Scheppmansdorf I received 
information that he had purloined divers articles from the 
stores, for which crime he received his due punishment. 

Another of our servants was named John Waggoner. 
This man teased us continually by his sulkiness and reluct- 
ance to work, assigning as a reason that he had been seized 
with home-sickness, and that he wished to return imme- 
diately to the Cape. Some little time afterward he was 
gratified in his wish; and, as will subsequently be seen, he 
proved himself the worst scamp of the set. But John per- 
formed his fraudulent tricks with so much cleverness, inge- 



80 SERVANTS. 

nuity, and self-confidence, that, out of mere adrAiration at 
his dexterity, I could not refrain from excusing him. 

John St. Helena, a relative of the last-mentioned, was 
born in the Cape colony, and officiated as our head wagoner. 
This man exhibited the most extraordinary disposition ; for, 
though sometimes he would be good-natured, willing, and 
hard-working, at others he was sulky, ill-tempered, and indo- 
lent. At first I felt much annoyed at his irritable and 
changeable temper ; but I soon found that by interfering I 
only made matters worse; and, as he was an "excellent 
whip," it was necessary to put up with and overlook a great 
deal, as we should have found it almost impossible to re- 
place him in so wild and inhospitable a region. About three 
years afterward I employed him again, and, strange to say, 
he was then the best of servants. 

Another of the attendants, John Williams, also a colony 
man, was a short, stout, merry, mischievous-looking lad, 
who agreed to serve in any capacity to which he might be 
competent. He now cooked for the men, assisted in "in- 
spanning" and leading the oxen, washed clothes — in short, 
made himself generally useful. Still he was careless, thought- 
less, and dirty in his habits, and had not the least idea of 
husbanding the provisions. The result was, that before we 
had been many months in the country, our stock of vegeta- 
bles, coffee, tea, and other necessaries was all but gone. 

Our own cook, John Mortar, a native of Madeira, was the 
very reverse of this. He was careful, frugal, industrious, 
strictly honest, and deeply attached to his master's interest. 
His only fault was irritability; but this, in a cook, is always 
excusable. I had a great regard for poor John, and I believe 
the attachment was mutual. 

Mortar had been cook to the club in Cape-Town, where 
he won golden opinions; but, though he had certainly at- 
tained some proficiency in the culinary art, he required a 
whole grocer's shop to prepare a dinner; and it was some 



SEKVANTS. 81 

time before he could reconcile himself to make a beef-steak 
a la fagon sauvage. 

John had a famous way of telling stories, and, like his 
own dishes, they were very savory and well-spiced: a tale 
never degenerated in his hands; and when, in his happier 
moments, he condescended to open his mind, he never failed 
to keep his audience in" a roar of laughter. He had, more- 
over, great ambition, and could never bear that any one 
should interfere with his cooking establishment. The arrival 
of a batch of natives at his fire was the signal for a general 
burst of eloquent abuse ; and if this did not suffice, he had a 
provoking way of scattering the hot coals and ashes over the 
naked legs of the poor unsuspecting savages, which, of course, 
never failed to have the desired effect. I often trembled for 
John, for his mind was clearly too republican to make any 
difference between chief and subject, and I was surprised 
that he never got into a scrape. I suppose, however, the 
comical manner in which his dangerous experiments were 
always carried on served rather to amuse than irritate or 
provoke. 

John lived to return to the Cape, where he became an- 
other Gulliver, embellishing his adventures among the sav- 
ages with marvels which would have done honor to the in- 
vention even of Dean Swift. 

I now come to the last, but certainly not the least inter- 
esting of the servants. This man's name was Timbo. He 
was a native of Mazapa, a country far in the interior, lying 
to the west of the Portuguese settlements on the east coast 
of Africa. 

When yet a child, Timbo's country was invaded by a 
ferocious and powerful tribe of Caffres, who carried off the 
cattle, and slew many of the inhabitants. Among the latter 
were his parents; he himself escaped to a neighboring tribe. 
As this, however, soon after shared a similar fate to his own, 
he was, for a long time, a "stranger on the face of the 

D2 



82 THE HANDSOME BLACK UMBO. 

earth." At last he was sold as a slave to the Portuguese, 
but after a while effected his escape. His liberty, however, 
was of short duration, for he was soon recaptured, and put 
on board a slaver. Fortunately, the vessel fell into the 
hands of an English cruiser, and Timbo, together with a great 
number of slaves, was brought to the Cape and liberated. 

Though of a shining dark complexion, Timbo was a re- 
markably fine-looking man, and well formed. He bore the 
reputation of being a complete lady-killer, not only with 
those of his own color, but also among the European "fair 
sex." He had, therefore, no great difficulty in securing a 
partner. His choice, however, seems to have been unfortu- 
nate; for, on his return after eighteen months' absence, he 
found that his faithless spouse had not only deserted him for 
another, but had also carried off with her nearly the whole 
of his hard-earned wages. On asking him one day whether 
he had any intention of again marrying, he replied in his 
strange patois, " No, maser ; me no more marry ; women too 
great rascals in the Kaap !" 

But it was not only of a handsome face and good figure 
that Timbo could boast, for he possessed, in addition, many 
excellent qualities, such as even temper, generosity, honesty, 
prudence, industry ; and, like our cook, he was sincere in his 
attachment to the interest of his employer. With Galton 
and myself he was a great favorite. He possessed, moreover, 
the most cheerful disposition, and an inexhaustible store of 
fun. I was, indeed, never tired of listening to his tales, for 
he told them with such force and simplicity that it was im- 
possible not to be pleased and amused. 

When reproached for any thing of which he knew himself 
to be innocent, he would lay his hand on his breast and say, 
"No, maser ; me know dat, me tell you." Or, "No, maser ; 
me heart know that, me heart reproach me, and me tell 
you." 

Timbo had a wonderful aptitude for languages; but, though 



DEPARTURE FROM SCHEPPMANSDORF. 83 

acquainted with many, he spoke none well. Still, his speech 
was remarkably fluent, and nothing brought it forth with 
such abundant fervor as when mention was made of his own 
country. This was like touching an electric rod, and he 
spoke in ecstasies. No European could take more pride in 
his native soil than this man did in his ; and if the rest of 
his countrymen resembled him, they must indeed have been 
a fine race of men, and, undoubtedly, capable of a very high 
degree of cultivation. 



CHAPTEK VII. 



Departure from Scheppmansdorf. — Cattle refractory at starting. — 
Tineas. — Always travel by Night. — Rhinoceros Hunt. — The Au- 
thor in danger of a second Sun-stroke. — Reach Onanis. — A Tribe 
of Hill-Damaras settled there. — Singular Manner in which these 
People smoke. — Effects of the Weed. — The Euphorbia Candela- 
brum. — Remarkable Properties of this vegetable Poison. — Guinea- 
fowl: the best Manner of shooting them. — Meet a troop of Gi- 
raffes. — Tjobis Fountain again. — Attacked by Lions. — Providential 
Escape. — Arrival at Richterfeldt. 

After only three weeks' stay at Scheppmansdorf, and 
though our oxen were but partially broken-in, Hans one day 
informed me that we might set out in safety. Accordingly, 
the final arrangements were hastily completed, and on the 
13 th of November I once more bade farewell to the place, 
and its kind, obliging, and hospitable inhabitants. 

At first starting, and while the sand was very deep and 
yielding, the oxen caused us much trouble; but when we 
were on the hard and firm Naarip, all went well, and we 
arrived at the Usab gorge, where we encamped, without far- 
ther inconvenience than passing a cold and sleepless night. 

The next evening we resumed our journey, but, instead 
of following the course of the Swakop — which, with our 
young oxen and heavy wagons, would have been next to im- 



84 TTNCAS. 

possible — it was deemed advisable that we should still con- 
tinue on the Naarip, where, though water was scarce, the 
road was hard and good. Tineas Mountain, which on our 
former journey was to the right, was now, of course, to our 
left. After about fourteen hours' fatiguing travel we reach- 
ed the small River Tineas, where we unyoked, and rested 
ourselves and the weary oxen until nightfall, when we were 
asrain en route. 

As we had now adopted the plan of traveling during the 
night, so as not to distress the animals too much, we found 
it necessary to keep a sharp look-out, both on account of the 
wild beasts, and for fear of losing our way. The latter was 
particularly to be guarded against ; for, in this land of 
drought, any considerable deviation from the regular track is 
not unfrequently followed by serious consequences. Hans 
and myself were accustomed to keep watch by turns, for we 
never dared trust to the men ; but this night, owing to our 
previous fatigue, we both unfortunately fell asleep. 

When I awoke, I found that we were far out of our proper 
course, and all the men were snoring in the wagons. How- 
ever, as it was starlight, and the landmarks very conspicu- 
ous, we had not much difficulty in recovering the proper 
track. 

Toward break of day we unyoked the tired oxen in the 
bed of a small dry water-course, where we found abundance 
of excellent grass. The unattached cattle did not join us till 
late in the afternoon, as the men in charge of them had fallen 
asleep. Their negligence, however, was excused on account 
of the good news they brought. It appeared that soon after 
it was light they discovered a huge rhinoceros, accompanied 
by a nearly full-grown calf, following in their wake, and that 
they had only lost sight of the beasts when within a short 
distance of our bivouac. 

So favorable an opportunity was too tempting to let slip. 
Having hurriedly partaken of some breakfast, and provided 



I 



RHINOCEROS HUNT. 85 

ourselves with a small supply of water, I, Hans, and an at- 
tendant started in pursuit of the animals, and we had not 
left the camp for much more than an hour when we fell in 
with their "spoor." The beasts themselves, however, could 
nowhere be seen ; and as several tracks crossed each other 
more than once (the animals having probably been feeding 
thereabouts), Hans and I took different directions in search 
of the trail we were to follow. We had hardly parted when 
I heard a tremendous crash among the bushes, and about a 
hundred yards in advance I saw, to my great vexation, the 
two rhinoceroses going away at full speed. Notwithstand- 
ing the distance and the unfavorable position of the beasts, 
I fired at the mother ; but, though the ball apparently took 
effect, she in no wise slackened her pace. 

Hans did not discharge his gun, because, as he said, the 
bushes prevented him from having more than a very indis- 
tinct view of the beasts. 

When I had reloaded we gave chase, and as that part of 
the plain we had now reached was totally devoid of every 
kind of vegetation that could obstruct the sight, we easily 
kept the animals in view. By degrees they slackened their 
speed, and in about twenty minutes abruptly came to a 
stand-still, curiously regarding me as, having (though unob- 
served to myself) separated from Hans, I rapidly made up 
to them. When within fifteen to twenty paces, I halted, 
took aim at the mother, and pulled the trigger, but, to my 
great annoyance, my gun missed fire. While in the very 
act of discharging my second barrel she wheeled about, and 
the ball, instead of entering her heart, lodged in her hind 
quarters, and only tended to quicken her pace. 

In the heat of pursuit, I had taken no notice of Hans and 
our attendant ; but, now that my attention was no longer 
exclusively drawn to the rhinoceros, I looked round to as- 
certain why they had not fired as well as myself, when, to 
my utter astonishment, I saw both of them about half a 



86 RHINOCEROS HUNT. 

mile in the background, standing motionless, and watching 
my proceedings. On their rejoining me, and in the first 
burst of indignation, I charged them with cowardice ; but 
Hans immediately drew himself up to his full height, and 
indignantly but respectfully replied as follows : 

" Sir ! when you have had my experience, you will never 
call that man a coward who does not attack a wounded 
black rhinoceros on an open and naked plain. I would rath- 
er," he continued, "face fifty lions than one of these animals 
in such an exposed situation, for not one in a hundred 
would take it as quietly as this has done. A wounded black 
rhinoceros seldom waits to be attacked, but charges instant- 
ly ; and there would not have been the least chance of sav- 
ing one's life in an open place like this. Had there been 
but the smallest bush or stone, I shouldn't have hesitated a 
moment, for the sight of the rhinoceros is bad, and if there 
is the least cover it is easy to avoid him. Not many years 
ago, a great Namaqua chief, who, contrary to the advice of 
his friends, had fired at a rhinoceros under precisely similar 
circumstances to yourself, lost his life by his rashness." 

I could not but be sensibly aware of the injustice of my 
accusation and my own foolhardiness ; yet I then felt but 
half convinced of the truth of what Hans had told me, and 
should certainly have acted in the like imprudent manner 
(as indeed I did on many subsequent occasions) had another 
opportunity offered. But, after all, Hans was perfectly 
right, as I am sure every one who has come much in con- 
tact with the beast in question will readily admit. Indeed, 
after the severe lesson which, at an after period, I received 
from a black rhinoceros, I am free to confess that nothing in 
the world would ever again induce me willfully to expose 
myself in the way just mentioned. 

To proceed. After receiving my fire, both mother and 
calf galloped off as fast as their legs would carry them ; but 
gradually they slackened their pace to a canter, then to a 




RHmOCEROS HUNT. 87 

trot, and finally to a walk. By this time, however, they 
were so far away that, but for the certain knowledge of their 
identity, we might readily have taken them for stocks or 
stones. The indistinctness of objects, moreover, even at a 
moderate distance, was increased by the effects of a most 
perplexing mirage. 

While discussing the propriety of following up the rhi- 
noceroses, we saw them make for an isolated tree, no doubt 
with the intention of sheltering themselves from the scorch- 
ing rays of the sun. This decided us on continuing the 
chase ; and, although suffering greatly from thirst (our small 
supply of water having been long exhausted)^ the hope of 
ultimate success gave us strength to proceed. 

Approaching under cover of some stunted bushes, and 
when almost certain of closing with the beasts, and putting 
an end to one or both, I was startled by the report of guns 
close behind me, and on turning round I found that Hans 
and our man had fired. I never felt more vexed in my life, 
for we were still a good hundred yards from the animals, and 
it had been previously agreed that — unless the beasts knew 
of our presence — we were not to fire until within a very 
short distance of them. As, however, the evil could not be 
remedied, I lost no time in firing ; but the brutes being fully 
one hundred and fifty paces from me, I had small hope of in- 
flicting serious injury. That I hit the mother, however, was 
very certain, for, at the instant of discharging my gun, she 
bounded like a cat into the air ; and Hans, who looked upon 
this as a sure sign of her being mortally wounded, exclaim- 
ed, " Aha, old girl, you are safe !" Annoyed as I was, I 
could not help smiling, and ironically- replied, "To be sure, 
she is safe enough." And so it proved, for we never saw her 
or her calf again. 

I felt disappointed at our failure and the chance of a 
feast, and was moreover sorry for the poor rhinoceros ; for, 
though she was lost to us, I felt certain it was only to die a 



88 THE AUTHOR IN DANGER OF A SECOND SUN-STROKE. 

lingering death at a distance. From experience, indeed, I 
should say that a similar fate awaits a large portion of birds 
and animals that escape us after being badly wounded. 

Under ordinary circumstances, I would certainly have con- 
tinued the pursuit ; but this was now impossible- We could 
not reach our encampment under many hours, and we suffer- 
ed painfully from thirst; while, owing to severe and con- 
tinued exertions under a burning sun, I was attacked by 
torturing headache. Long before we could reach the wagons, 
I experienced precisely the same feelings as when I received 
a sun-stroke. Knowing that a renewal of the same infliction 
would in all probability prove fatal, I still toiled on ; yet, at 
last, the faintness and exhaustion became so overpowering, 
that, regardless of danger, I threw myself on a small flat rock, 
so heated by the sun that I was unable to hold my hand 
on it for a moment, and even the limbs protected by my 
dress were almost blistered. I then urged Hans to proceed 
as quickly as possible, in order that, if he found I did not 
immediately follow, he might send me some water. 

Hans had not long been gone, however, when the rock be- 
came so intolerably hot that, stupefied as I was, I found it 
necessary to rise from it ; when, with a faltering step, and in 
a state of almost total unconsciousness, I made for the wag- 
ons, which I reached in safety just as Hans was about to 
dispatch a man to me with an ample supply of water. My 
apprehensions, however, had been vain. A few hours' rest 
and quiet gradually restored me. 

The oppressive heat under which I had suffered so severe- 
ly had also made the cattle very thirsty, and they refused to 
eat the dry and sun-burnt grass. As soon, therefore, as the 
air became a little cooler, we pushed on to Onanis, where we 
arrived somewhat late in the evening. Notwithstanding the 
darkness, and the risk of being attacked by lions, which some- 
times swarm here, we were obliged to supply our cattle with 
water ; and, as we had to dig for it in the bed of a small pe- 



ONANIS — TOBACCO AND HEMP. 89 

riodical stream hard by, it was close on midnight before we 
could think of refreshment or sleep. 

Onanis is the permanent residence of a kraal of very poor 
Hill-Damaras,* who subsist chiefly upon the few wild roots 
which their sterile neighborhood produces. Most of them, 
however, manage to raise a little tobacco, for which they 
have a perfect mania, and which, moreover, they value near- 
ly as much as the necessaries of life. 

They also cultivate " dacka," or hemp, not, as with us, for 
its fibre, but for the sake of the young leaves and seeds, which 
they use as a substitute for tobacco, and which is of the most 
intoxicating and injurious character. It not unfrequently 
happens, indeed, that those who indulge too freely in the use 
of this plant are affected by disease of the brain. 

The manner in which the Hill-Damaras smoke is widely 
different either from Hindu, Mussulman, or Christian. In- 
stead of simply inhaling the smoke, and then immediately 
letting it escape, either by the mouth or nostril, they swallow 
it deliberately. The process is too singular to be passed over 
without notice. 




HILL-DAMAEA PIPE. 

A small quantity of water is put into a large horn — usu- 
ally of a koodoo — three or four feet long. A short clay pipe, 
filled either with tobacco or "dacka," is then introduced, 
and fixed vertically into the side near the extremity of the 

* The proper name of these people is Haukoin, which literally means 
"real men." By the Namaquas they are styled Ghou-Damop or Da- 
man — a term not sufficiently decorous for translation. The name Hill- 
Damaras is that by which they are best known, and, being really very 
appropriate to their habits and mode of living, I shall retain it through- 
out the course of this narrative. 



90 HOW THE HILL-DAMAKAS SMOKE. 

narrow end, communicating with the interior by means of a 
small aperture. This being done, the party present place 
themselves in a circle, observing deep silence, and with open 
mouths, and eyes glistening with delight, they anxiously abide 
their turn. The chief man usually has the honor of enjoy- 
ing the first pull at the pipe. From the moment that the 
orifice of the horn is applied to his lips, he seems to lose all 
consciousness of every thing around him, and becomes entire- 
ly absorbed in the enjoyment. As little or no smoke escapes 
from his mouth, the effect is soon sufficiently apparent. His 
features become contorted, his eyes glassy and vacant, his 
mouth covered with froth, his whole body convulsed, and in 
a few seconds he is prostrate on the ground. A little water 
is then thrown over his body, proceeding not unfrequently 
from the mouth of a friend ; his hair is violently pulled, or 
his head unceremoniously thumped with the hand. These 
somewhat disagreeable applications usually have the effect of 
restoring him to himself in a few minutes. Cases, however, 
have been known where people have died on the spot from 
overcharging their stomachs with the poisonous fumes. 

The Ovaherero use tobacco in a similar manner as just 
described, with this difference only, that they inhale the 
smoke simply through short clay pipes without using water 
to cool it, which, of course makes it all the more dangerous. 

The first time we were present at a smoking bout we were 
disgusted and frightened; but, from its being of every-day 
occurrence, we at length became somewhat reconciled to it, 
as also to many other unpleasant sights and customs. 

Instead of the naked and barren Naarip, the country had 
now begun to assume a more pleasing appearance ; for, though 
every thing looked dry and parched at this season, there was 
no want of vegetation. Besides a variety of shrubs and 
stunted bashes, the periodical water-courses were marked by 
the handsome black-stemmed mimosa, and other species of 
the acacia family. The hill-sides, also, were in many 



THE EUPHORBIA CANDELABRUM GAME. 91 

places covered with the graceful but poisonous euphorbia 
candelabrum. 

The Ovaherero tip their arrows with this vegetable poi- 
son, and the Hill-Damaras introduce it in a liquid state 
into pools wh§re wild beasts are known to drink ; and the 
flesh of any animal thus destroyed is perfectly wholesome. 
But its most remarkable property is, that while it invariably 
kills the white rhinoceros, it is freely and harmlessly partaken 
of by the black species, whether the plant itself be eaten, or a 
solution of it drunk. The juice of the euphorbia candelabrum 
has a milk-white appearance, and is very gummy, with an 
acrid taste. 

The wild bee is occasionally known to extract its food 
from the flowers and the juice of this cactus. In such a case 
the honey becomes more or less poisonous. Mr. Moflat 
mentions an instance of his party suffering much pain and 
inconvenience from having partaken of such honey. They 
felt as if their throats had been on fire. 

In seasons when rain falls abundantly, Onanis becomes 
one of the finest grazing localities throughout Namaqua-land, 
and is capable of sustaining many hundred head of cattle for 
several months together. The hills then afford a variety of 
shrubs and bushes of which goats and sheep are fond. The 
surrounding plains are covered with fine grass, and a species 
of yellow flower much relished by the cattle. 

This district used to be one of Hans' favorite camping 
places ; for, besides the abundant and excellent pasture- 
grounds, it was largely resorted to by game of all kinds, and 
is still frequented by the lion, the gemsbok, the giraffe, the 
zebra, the gnoo, the rhinoceros, and several other animals. 

We were to have resumed our journey on the following 
night, but in the interval Hans' right hand and arm had 
suddenly, and from some unknown cause, swelled in a most 
alarming manner. In consequence of this mishap, we found 
it necessary to devote another day to rest. 



92 GUINEA-FOWL TROOP OF GIRAFFES. 

On the evening of our arrival at Onanis, we had started 
an immense number of Guinea-fowls near the water, and, 
thinking it a favorable opportunity to replenish our exhaust- 
ed larder, I slung a double-barreled gun across my shoulder, 
and immediately started off; but, though I soon found the'' 
birds, they were so wild that for a long time I could not get 
v^^ithin range of them. At last, after having chased them 
about the rocks till I was nearly tired, they scattered them- 
selves among the stones, and lay so close that, unless I 
almost trod upon them, they would not rise. With a steady 
pointer, I believe the whole flock might easily have been 
killed, and, as it was, I made a very large bag. 

The flesh of the wild Guinea-fowl — that of the young, at 
least — is tender and well-flavored, and their eggs are excel- 
lent. The speed of this bird is almost incredible. On even 
ground a man is no match for it. Where the country is well 
wooded, the best plan to shoot them is with a " cocker," or 
other dog that challenges freely to them when "treed;" 
for while the birds are intently watching his movements, 
they may easily be approached within gun-shot. With a 
small pea-rifle this sort of sport is particularly amusing. 

Early on the afternoon of the second day, Hans having 
now partially recovered, we started from Onanis, and with 
the exception of a short stoppage, for the purpose of prepar- 
ing some coffee and to allow the cattle to take a few mouth- 
fuls of grass, we traveled throughout the whole night. 

Soon after daylight we discovered a numerous troop of 
giraffes. The country, however, was open and unfavorable 
for stalking, and before we could get within range they were 
off. The speed of these animals is by no means inconsider- 
able, more especially on gently rising ground. In such a 
locality, and from their being very long-winded, a tolerably 
swift horse is seldom able to overtake them under less than 
two or three miles. It is one of the most curious sights im- 
aginable to see a troop of these animals at full speed, balanc- 



ATTACKED BY LIONS. 93 

ing themselves to and fro in a manner not easily described, 
and whisking, at regular intervals, from side to side, their tails, 
tufted at the end, while their long and tapering necks, sway- 
ing backward and forward, follow the motion of their bodies. 

On account of the many short turns, the hilly nature of 
the ground in places, and the unusual length of the wagons, 
we anticipated considerable difficulty in the course of this 
stage. But we got safely through it without accident of any 
kind, and arrived at Tjobis Fountain about nine o'clock. 

We left this place the evening of the same day, and, with 
the exception of resting for an hour or two by the way, we 
pushed on throughout the night. 

At daybreak, and just as we reached the Swakop, we 
were suddenly startled by the most tremendous roaring of 
lions, which evidently were close at hand. In a few mo- 
ments afterward, two of those magnificent beasts — male and 
female — emerged from the bushes at about one hundred and 
fifty paces ahead of us. On perceiving the cavalcade, they 
gave another terrific roar,, of so angry a nature as to cause 
the greatest consternation among the cattle. Those attached 
to the foremost wagon wheeled round instantaneously, and, 
before it was possible to prevent them, ran right into the 
midst of the aftermost team, and I expected every moment 
to see the vehicles capsized or smashed to atoms. 

What with the bellowing of the oxen, the shouting and 
screaming of the men, the smashing and breaking of yokes, 
&c., and the continued roar of the lions, the scene was such 
as to baffle all description. 

The lion himself, after having approached very near to us, 
again retreated into the bushes ; but the lioness seated her- 
self quietly within less than a hundred yards of the wagons, 
growling most furiously. Throwing the reins over the saddle 
of " Spring," who, by-the-by, had nearly unseated me on the 
first appearance of the lions, I sprang to the ground, and 
seizing a double-barreled gun, which I always kept loaded 



94 ATTACKED BY LIONS. 

for emergences, I made toward the beast, intending to punish 
her for her audacity, when Hans imploringly begged me to 
desist. " For," said he, " if you do not shoot her dead on 
the spot, she will be down upon us in an instant." 

Allowing myself to be guided by his advice, I refrained 
from firing, but nevertheless took up my position within about 
fifty paces of, and opposite to the lioness, as well to draw off 
her attention from the men, and thus enable them to put the 
cattle and vehicles to rights, as to be in readiness to give her 
a warm reception, should she think proper to charge. 

A short time before we were thus uncerdnoniously at- 
tacked, one of the draft oxen, which had always been very 
wild, managed to escape from the yoke, and a fleet-footed 
Damara was left behind to bring him on. In the midst of 
our confusion, we heard cries of distress and loud shouting 
behind us, and, on looking round, we saw, to our horror, the 
lion in full chase as well of the refractory ox as the man, 
who was trying to keep off his fierce pursuer by violently 
waving the fire-brand which he carried in his hand.* Tell- 
ing Hans to mind the lioness as well as he could in my ab- 
sence, I immediately ran to the rescue of the Damara and 
his charge ; but, before I had proceeded far, the ox, catching 
sight of the remainder of the herd, made a successful dash 
right across the lion's path, and fortunately rejoined us in 
safety. The object of the lion was clearly more the beast 
than the man ; for, upon finding himself thus suddenly baf- 
fled, he stopped short, and with a savage look at us, and an 
angry growl, bounded out of sight as quick as thought ; and 
by the time I returned to the wagons, the lioness had thought 
fit to follow her lord's example. Thus, almost without any 
effort on our side, we were providentially saved from this 
most extraordinary and dangerous attack. 

* In the nights the Damaras invariably carry a fire-brand, which 
they hold close to their bodies, in order to shelter themselves, in some 
degree, from the wind and cold. 



ARRIVE AT RICHTERFELDT A HEARTY WELCOME. 95 

At the first appearance of the lions the men took refuge 
in the wagons, and long after the danger was over they 
trembled violently from fear and apprehension. 

As a general rule, a lion, unless previously molested, will 
seldom attack an ox in the yoke or when attended by man, 
but long abstinence makes him desperate. 

After considerable trouble and difficulty, we succeeded in 
rearranging the oxen, which had become excessively scared. 
Two or three hours' further traveling brought us, without, 
other mishap, safe to Kichterfeldt, where our hair-breadth 
escape was listened to with the deepest interest. 

We had left Scheppmansdorf, as said, in the afternoon 
of the 13th of November, and reached our present quarters 
early on the morning of the 22d of the same month. The 
whole of the distance by road could not have been much less 
than one hundred and thirty miles. Having performed this 
in five stages, and in about the same number of days, our 
rate of traveling, at an average, had been twenty -five miles 
daily. Taking into consideration the nature of the ground, 
the young and half-broken oxen, &c., it may fairly be con- 
sidered first-rate speed, and our efforts were loudly praised 
by every one. 



CHAPTEK VIII. 



A hearty Welcome. — We remove the Encampment. — An Apparition. 
— Audacity of wild Beasts. — Depriving Lions of their Prey. — Ex- 
cessive Heat. — Singular effects of great Heat. — Depart for Barmen. 
— Meet a troop of Zebras. — Their flesh not equal to Venison. — The 
Missionary's Wall. — A sad Catastrophe. — The " Kameel-Doorn." — 
Buxton Fountain. — The Scorpion. — Arrival at Barmen. 

Immediately on our arrival at Richterfeldt we were sur- 
rounded by scores of natives, who, with yells, vociferations, 
clapping of hands, grotesque dances, and so forth, testified 
their joy at our return. Mr. Rath, moreover, highly compli' 



96 LEAVE OF ABSENCE GRANTED. 

mented us on the dispatch with which we had broken-in the 
oxen and performed the journey. 

Mr. Galton, I ascertained, had lately departed for Barmen, 
Mr. Hahn's station. I determined to follow him as soon as 
I had taken sufficient rest after my fatiguing journey. In the 
mean time, the wagons were to remain at Richterfeldt till 
our return to that place. 

At first we pitched our camp in the same spot we had oc- 
cupied previously to our departure for Scheppmansdorf ; but 
the high palisades that protected it had been destroyed in our 
absence by the natives, who had carried away the wood for 
fuel. This, however, was of little consequence, as the old 
inclosure would now have been too small to contain both the 
cattle and our cumbersome conveyances. Moreover, as the 
place was situated in the bed of a periodical stream, a tribu- 
tary of the Swakop, and as the rainy season was fast ap- 
proaching, it would have been imprudent to remain here any 
length of time. Accordingly, we brought our wagons, &c., 
to Hans' own kraal, which was near at hand on the bank of 
the river, as there we should be perfectly secure in case of 
any sudden inundation. 

The day before our removal, the men had asked and ob- 
tained permission to spend the evening with Hans at his en- 
campment. Even the dogs had absented themselves, and I 
was thus left altogether alone. This night, though some- 
what warm, was delightfully bright and still. To enjoy the 
beautiful weather, I had taken my bedding out of the wagon, 
and placed it on the ground alongside the wheels, facing a 
small clump of low tamarisk-trees, distant not above twenty 
paces. Being a bad sleeper, I lay awake until a very late 
hour. All nature was hushed and silent, and the night so 
calm that I might have heard the falling of a leaf. Sudden- 
ly my attention was drawn to the tamarisk grove, whence 
proceeded a low, rustling noise like that of some animal cau- 
tiously making its way through it. Thinking it probable that 



AUDACITY OF LIONS. 97 

a hyaena or a jackal was about to pay me a visit, I sat up in 
my bed, and seizing my gun, which I invariably kept within 
reach, I prepared to give the intruder a warm reception. 
Imagine my surprise, however, when, instead of one or other 
of these skulking animals, a stately lion stood suddenly be- 
fore me ! In an instant my gun was pointed at his breast ; 
but, hoping he would presently turn his broadside toward me, 
which would have given me a much better chance of destroy- 
ing him, I refrained from firing. In this expectation, how- 
ever, I was disappointed ; for, on perceiving the wagons, he 
retreated a step or two, and uttering a low growl, vanished 
the next moment among the bushes. 

There is something so grand and imposing in the appear- 
ance of the king of beasts in his native wilds, more especial- 
ly when he assumes an attitude of surprise or defiance, that 
it is impossible not to feel more or less awed in his presence. 

On mentioning to Mr. Rath, the following morning, my ad- 
venture of the preceding night, be expressed no kind of sur- 
prise, for the tamarisk grove in question was often known, 
he said, to harbor lions and other beasts of prey. He added, 
moreover, that lions not unfrequently penetrated thence into 
his garden, and even approached within a few paces of the 
dwelling-house itself. 

Returning somewhat late one very dark night from Mr. 
Rath's house to our encampment, I was suddenly startled by 
sounds of the most painful description, not unlike the stifled 
groanings of a person who is on the point of drowning. It 
at once struck me that the lions had surprised some unfor- 
tunate native while lying in ambush near the water for wild 
animals that came there to drink. While listening in anxious 
suspense to the wailings in question — which gradually be- 
came more and more faint — there reached me from another 
quarter a confused sound of human voices and of hurried 
footsteps. This only tended to confirm my first impression ; 
but, from the impenetrable darkness, I could not ascertain 

E 



98 DEPRIVING THE LION OF HIS PEEY. 

any thing with certainty. Being unable, however, to endure 
the suspense any longer, and regardless of the danger to which 
I exposed myself, I caught up my fowling-piece, which hap- 
pened to be loaded with ball, and set out in the direction 
whence the wailings, now fast dying away, proceeded. 

I had not gone very far, however, before I fell in with a 
number of the natives, who were hastening in the same di- 
rection as myself 

My road, for the most part, lay through a dense tamarisk 
coppice, and it was surprising to me how I ever managed to 
thread the labyrinth. The hope of saving human life, how- 
ever, enabled me to overcome all obstacles. I might have 
been three or four minutes in the brake when, on coming to 
a small opening, I suddenly encountered, and all but stumbled 
over, a large black mass lying at my feet, while close to my 
ear I heard the twang of a bow-string and the whizzing of 
an arrow. At the same moment, and within a very few 
paces of where I stood, I was startled by the terrific roar of 
a lion, which seemed to shake the ground beneath me. This 
was immediately followed by a savage and exulting cry of 
triumph from a number of the natives. 

Having recovered from my surprise, I found that the dark 
object that had nearly upset me was one of the natives stoop- 
ing over a dead zebra, which the lion had just killed, and 
then learned, for the first time, to my great astonishment as 
well as relief, that the wailings which had caused me so much 
uneasiness, and which I imagined were those of a dying man, 
proceeded from this poor animal.* 

The design of the natives, who, from the first, I take it, 
well knew what they were about, was simply to possess them- 
selves of the zebra, in which they had fully succeeded. "While 

* I have since had frequent opportunities of hearing the dying groans 
of the zebra, which in reality greatly resemble the faint gasps and 
ejaculations of a drowning man. Even the subdued neighings of this 
animal, when heard from a distance, are of a very melancholy nature. 



DEPRIVING THE LION OF HIS PEEY. 99 

some busied themselves in lighting a fire, the rest joined in a 
sort of war-dance round the carcass, accompanied by the 
most wild and fantastic gestures, totally disregarding the 
proximity of the lion, who had only retreated a few paces. 
As the fire began to blaze, indeed, we could distinctly see him 
pacing to and fro among the bushes on the edge of the river's 
bank. 

He, moreover, forcibly reminded us of his presence by cru- 
elly lacerating a small dog belonging to one of the party 
which had incautiously approached him too closely. By a 
slight touch of his murderous paw he ripped up its body 
from head to foot ; but, notwithstanding its entrails dragged 
on the ground, the poor creature managed to crawl to our 
fire, where it breathed its last in the course of a few seconds. 
It was a most touching sight to see the faithful animal wag- 
ging its tail in recognition of its master, who was trying to 
replace the intestines and to stop the flow of the blood. 

The savage features of the natives, which received an un- 
naturally wild character as the glare of the half-blazing fire 
fell upon them ; the dying dog, with his wild master stoop- 
ing despondingly over him ; the mutilated carcass of the ze- 
bra, and the presence of the lion within a few paces of us, 
presented one of the most striking scenes it was ever my for- 
tune to witness. 

Expecting every moment that the lion would make a dash 
at us, I stood prepared to receive him. More than once, in- 
deed, I leveled my gun at him, and was on the point of pull- 
ing the trigger ; but, being now sufficiently acquainted with 
the character of the animal to know that, if I did not shoot 
him on the spot, the attempt would probably prove the 
death-signal to one or other of us, I refrained from firing. 

Contrary to my expectation, however, he allowed us to 
cut up and to carry away the entire zebra without molest- 
ing us in any way. During the process, the natives occa- 
sionally hurled huge burning brands at the beast ; but these, 



100 EXCESSIVE HEAT- 

instead of driving him to a distance, had only the effect of 
making him the more savage.* 

Similar attempts to deprive the lion of his prey are of fre- 
quent occurrence in the interior of Africa. Indeed, it is no 
unusual thing to find a number of natives residing near such 
pools of w^ater as are frequented by antelopes, other v/ild an- 
imals, and their constant attendant, the lion, subsisting al- 
most altogether in this way, or on carcasses w^hich the lion 
has not had time to devour before the return of day, when it 
is his habit to retire to his lair. 

But it is not always that the attempt to deprive the lion 
of his prey succeeds as well as in the instance just mention- 
ed. Generally speaking, indeed, if he is famishing with hun- 
ger, he turns upon his assailants, and many a man has thus 
lost his life. One often meets with individuals, either muti- 
lated or bearing dreadful scars, the result of wounds received 
in such encounters. 

The heat had, by this time, become almost insupportable, 
and it was only with great inconvenience that a person could 
move about after the sun was a few hours above the horizon. 
Even the cattle were dreadfully distressed. As early as 
eight o'clock in the morning they would leave off grazing, in 
order to seek shelter under some tree or bush against the 
scorching rays of the sun. 

Every afternoon, regularly at two o'clock, we had a strong 
breeze from the westward.' Strange to say, however, this, 
though coming from the sea, instead of cooling the atmos- 
phere, only tended to increase its oppressiveness. We ex- 
perienced precisely the same sensation as when standing be- 
fore the mouth of a heated oven. The quicksilver rose to 
such a height as almost to make us doubt our own eyes. 
Even at Scheppmansdorf, which is situated less than twenty 

* I have been told that on a similar occasion to the present, a lion 
was so injured by the flaming missiles thrown at him, that he was 
found shortly afterward dead of his wounds. 



EFFECTS OF EXCESSIVE HEAT. 101 

miles as the crow flies from the sea, and where there is al- 
most always a refreshing breeze, the thermometer, at noon, 
in an airy situation, and in the shade, rises, for many days 
together, to 110 degrees of Fahrenheit ! 

In consequence of the fiery state of the atmosphere, every 
article of horn or wood shrank and contracted most surpris- 
ingly. Even the gun-stocks, made of the best English wal- 
nut, lost an eighth of an inch of their original solidity. The 
ink dried in the pen almost the instant it left the stand.* 

Our wagons, moreover, which on leaving Scheppmansdorf 
were in excellent order, were now quite infirm. The spokes 
and the tires became loose, and the felloes and naves exhib- 
ited large gaps and fissures. To save them, however, as 
much as possible, we set about making a shed of reeds and 
rushes, strongly bound together by cords and light wooden 
sticks. 

As soon as this was finished, I began my preparations for 
visiting Galton at Barmen ; and as Mr. Schoneberg was also 
anxious to make the acquaintance of Mr. Hahn, his intended 
colleague, it was agreed that we should travel together. On 
the day appointed we set oiit, mounted on oxen, and accom- 
panied by a Hottentot as guide and interpreter. Besides his 
native tongue, this man spoke Dutch and Damara fluently. 

* Captain Sturt, who in his explorations in Austraha seems to have 
experienced the same heat in even a greater degree, says, 

" The mean of the thermometer for the months of December, Janu- 
ary, and February had been 101, 104, and 105 degrees respectively, in 
the shade. Under its effects, every screw in our boxes had been 
drawn, and the horn handles of our instruments, as well as our combs, 
were spHt into fine laminae. The lead dropped out of our pencils, and 
our signal rockets were entirely spoiled; our hair, as well as the wool 
on the sheep, ceased to grow, and our nails had become brittle as glass. 
The flour lost more than eight per cent, of its original weight, and 
the other provisions in still greater proportion." In another part of 
his narrative, this enterprising explorer mentions the quicksilver once 
to have risen to 132 degrees in the shade, the thermometer being 
placed in the fork of a tree, five feet from the ground ! 



102 UN-OXED TROOP OF ZEBEAS. 

One or two natives were also engaged to drive and to assist 
in packing the oxen. 

As usual, I rode " Spring," and Mr. Schoneberg an ox 
lent to him by Mr. Rath ; but, unfortunately, the latter ani- 
mal turned very vicious, and before we had proceeded many 
hundred yards I saw my friend pitched head foremost into 
the moist bed of the Swakop. On rising from his uncom- 
fortable berth, the reverend gentleman looked very blank 
and crestfallen, and nothing could again induce him to re- 
mount the brute. Being, however, anxious to prosecute the 
journey, I made him an offer of my own ox, which was grate- 
fully accepted. 

After this little mishap, all went on well for a while. 
Unfortunately, however, in an unguarded moment, I too was 
doomed to be "un-oxed," to the great delight and amuse- 
ment of my companion. Confiding in his superior skill ^n 
managing a refractory ox, our guide now generously ex- 
changed with me. Notwithstanding his boasting, he was as 
unfortunate as ourselves, for in the course of half an hour 
he had twice bitten the dust. Nothing daunted, however, 
he mounted a third time, and ultimately succeeded in con- 
vincing the animal that he was determined to be master. 

In the course of the day we suddenly came upon a troop 
of zebras. Quickly dismounting, I took a running shot at 
them as they were disappearing in the brushwood, and had 
the good fortune to bring a fine male dead to the ground. 
Immediately " off-saddling," we helped ourselves to the best 
parts of the meat, leaving the rest to one of our Damaras, 
who thought a "tuck-out" of flesh — as Hans would have 
called it — preferable to a wearisome journey to Barmen. 

The flesh of the zebra, or " wild horse," as the Dutch call 
it, is eatable, but by no means good ; for, besides possessing 
a very strong odor and peculiar flavor, it has a very oily 
taste. With plenty of pepper and salt, however, a steak is 
not to be despised by the hungry traveler. 



THE missionary's WAIL. 103 

The heat throughout the day had been terrific. Before 
the sun had well disappeared behind the mountains between 
which we traveled, Mr. Schoneberg was completely knocked 
up, and we were obliged to encamp for the night. Each of 
us carried a small tin water-can ; but, instead of having it 
filled, as I did, with the pure liquid, Mrs. Rath had kindly, 
but unwisely, provided her friend with a mixture of water, 
sugar, and cinnamon. This, as may be supposed, only served 
to increase his thirst. 

We had hardly finished removing the packs and saddles 
from our tired steeds before the poor missionary threw him- 
self despondingly on the ground, exclaiming, " Ah ! Mr. An- 
dersson, if we were to tell people in Europe what we suffer 
here, none would believe us." I could not help smiling at 
this burst of despair ; for, though from the heat the day had 
been distressing enough, we had by no means suffered either 
from want of water or food. Poor Mr. Schoneberg ! he was 
totally unfit for the hardships he must necessarily encounter 
in the African deserts. Indeed, not many weeks afterward 
he all but perished from his inability to endure thirst for a 
short period. 

The next morning at daybreak we were again in the sad- 
dle. Our course was northerly, and a little by east ; and the 
greater part of the road lay some distance from the Swakop, 
which at one point forced its way through a narrow, pic- 
turesque, and bold gorge. 

In one place we passed at the foot of ^'Scheppman's Mount- 
ain," so called from a melancholy event which occurred here 
a few years ago. A missionary named Scheppman had made 
the ascent to obtain a view of the surrounding country, but 
in descending the cock of his gun was caught by a bough, 
and the contents were lodged in one of his legs. After hav- 
ing suffered agonies for a few days, he iCxpired, and the hill 
has ever since gone by his name. 

The vegetation was more rank than in the parts we had 



104 THE KAJVIEEL-DOOEN. 

previously traversed. In the course of the day we crossed 
the dry beds of several large, sandy, and periodical streams, 
which were all tributaries to the Swakop. The country near 
these streams was thickly studded with splendid forests of 
the gigantic and park-like acacia, known to the Dutch as the 
" kameel-doorn," or giraffe thorn {acacia girafce). This tree 
derives its name from its constituting the favorite and prin- 
cipal food of the beautiful camelopard. On account of its 
immense size and peculiar growth, having the foliage dis- 
posed from the top downward in umbrella-shaped masses, it 
is a great ornament to the country ; but, strange to say, it is 
invariably found only in arid districts. 

The " kameel-doorn" is evidently of very slow growth, and 
requires, probably, many hundred years to arrive at maturi- 
ty. The grain is therefore very close ; and the wood is so 
heavy that, after being dried for years, it will sink when 
thrown into the water. Our northern oak can in no wise 
be compared with it as regards hardness and solidity. The 
grain is, however, rather short, and the wood consequently 
brittle. Notwithstanding this defect, it is very strong, and 
is extensively used for building purposes and implements of 
husbandry. It is, moreover, almost the only wood strong 
enough for the axle-trees of wagons. Tools of the best ma- 
terials, however, are indispensable in working it. I have 
seen many a well-tempered axe and adze blunted and spoil- 
ed when brought in contact with it. The outer part of the 
tree is of a whitish color, but the heart is reddish-brown, not 
unlike mahogany, and capable of a high polish. 

It is in the branches of this acacia, mentioned by several 
South African travelers, that the social grossbeak {loxia so- 
cio) chiefly constructs its interesting and singular nest. 

Through the stupidity and mismanagement of our guide, 
who apparently knew but little of the road, we missed a 
watering-place where we were to have halted, and, in con- 
sequence, suffered extremely from thirst. Mr. Schoneberg, 



BUXTON FOUNTAIN — SCORPIONS. 105 

moreover, had been very unwell during the day, and when 
we arrived at the end of the stage, which was not until 
seven o'clock at night, he was even more fatigued and ex- 
hausted than on the preceding evening. 

We bivouacked by the side of "Buxton Fountain," so 
called in honor of the late Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton, from 
whom and his family, if I am rightly informed, Mrs. Hahn 
had experienced much kindness. It is a hot spring, and the 
water, which flows out of a granite rock, is nearly of a boil- 
ing temperature, and has a brackish and disagreeable taste. 

The soil, moreover, all round this fountain is impregnated 
with saline substances. A considerable number of wild ani- 
mals congregate here nightly in order to quench their thirst. 
Lions, also, are at times numerous, but on this occasion 
they did not molest us. 

Having partaken of some supper, I was about to resign my 
weary limbs to repose, when suddenly there issued from a 
small hole, close to my head, a swarm of scorpions. Their 
appearance brought me to my feet in an instant ; for, though 
not a particularly nervous man, I am free to confess to a 
great horror of all crawling things. 

During the hot months these animals lie dormant, but 
on the approach of the rainy season they come forth in great 
numbers. On removing stones, decayed pieces of wood, &c., 
it is necessary to be very cautious. The instant the scorpion 
feels himself in contact with any part of the body of a man 
or beast, he lifts his tail, and with his horny sting inflicts 
a wound which, though rarely fatal, is still of a very painful 
nature.* 

Like the snake, the scorpion is fond of warmth, and it is 
not uncommon, on awakening in the morning, to find one or 

* "The black, or. rock scorpion," says Lieutenant Patterson, "is 
nearly as venomous as any of the serpent tribe. A farmer, who re- 
sided at a place called the Paarle, near the Cape, was stung by one in 
the foot during my stay in the country, and died in a few hours." 

E 2 



106 BAKMEN. 

two of these horrid creatures snugly ensconced in the folds of 
the blanket or under the pillow. On one occasion I killed 
a scorpion measuring nearly seven and a half inches in 
length, that had thus unceremoniously introduced itself into 
my bed. 

The following morning our guide declared it to be only a 
few hours' further traveling to Barmen. We therefore did 
not hurry our departure, but took ample time to prepare, 
and to partake of, a substantial breakfast, consisting of some 
strong coffee, and steaks of zebra-flesh, simply prepared on 
the hot embers of our bivouac fire. 

We arrived at Barmen just as the family was sitting down 
to dinner, and Mr. Hahn kindly invited us to join in the am- 
ple repast. I was happy to find JNIr. Galton in the enjoyment 
of health and excellent spirits, and he seemed delighted at 
our safe and speedy return. 



CHAPTER IX. 



Barmen. — Thunder-storm in the Tropics. — A Man killed by Light- 
ning. — Warm Spring. — Mr. Hahn : his Missionary Labor ; Seed 
sown in exceeding stony Ground. — The Lake Omanbonde. — Mr. 
Galton's Mission of Peace. — The Author meets a Lion by the way ; 
the Beast bolts. — Singular Chase of a Gnoo. — " Balling two Birds 
with one Stone." — A Lion Hunt. — The Author escapes Death by a 
Miracle. — Consequences of shooting on a Sunday. 

At a first glance. Barmen has a rather dreary aspect. 
Hans thought it resembled many of the most desolate parts 
of Iceland ; but, when more closely examined, it is found to 
be by no means devoid either of interest or beauty. It is 
situated about three quarters of a mile from the Swakop, 
and on its right bank. Toward the west, and immediately 
behind the station, rise irregular masses of low, broken rocks, 
ending abruptly on one side in a bluff, about one thousand 
feet high. The whole are covered with a profusion of shrubs, 



A THUNBEK-STORM IN THE TROPICS. 107 

and several species of thorn-trees of the genus acacia, which, 
during the greater part of the year, assume every shade of 
green. To the eastward it faces the Swakop, the course of 
which is conspicuously marked by the handsome black- 
stemmed mimosa. Beyond this, the view is limited by a 
noble range of picturesque mountains, rising between six 
and seven thousand feet above the level of the sea. These 
receive additional interest from being more or less a continu- 
ation of those mighty chains which take their rise a very few 
miles from Cape-Town, thus extending, in a direct line, 
about one thousand miles. 

Within a stone' s-throw of the missionary house, a turbu- 
lent mountain stream winds its tortuous course. It flows, 
however, only during heavy rains, when its great fall and 
violence prove very destructive to the native gardens. 

About two years from the period of which I am now 
writing, I happened to be on a visit to Barmen, on which 
occasion I witnessed one of those extraordinary phenomena 
only to be seen to perfection in tropical climes. One after- 
noon, heavy and threatening clouds suddenly gathered in the 
eastern horizon, the thunder rolled ominously in the dis- 
tance, and the sky was rent by vivid lightnings. Knowing, 
from long experience, its imports, we instantly set about 
placing every thing under shelter that could be injured by 
the wet. This was hardly accomplished when large drops 
of rain began to descend, and in a few seconds the sluice- 
gates of heaven appeared to have opened. The storm did 
not last above half an hour, but this short time was suffi- 
cient to convert the whole country into one sheet of water. 
The noise, moreover, caused by the river and a number of 
minor mountain streams, as they rolled down their dark, 
muddy torrents in waves rising often as high as ten feet, was 
perfectly deafening. Gigantic trees, recently uprooted, and 
others in a state of decay, were carried away with irresistible 
fury, and tossed about on the foaming billows like so many 



108 MR. HAHN. 

straws. Every vestige of many gardens was swept away ; 
and some of the native huts, which had been imprudently 
erected too close to the river, shared a similar fate. Indeed, 
it must have been a miniature deluge. 

Wonderful, however, as is the sudden creation of these 
floods, the very short time they require to disappear is no less 
striking. An hour's sunshine is sometimes sufficient to trans- 
form flooded fields into a smiling landscape. 

These commotions of the elements are of frequent occur- 
rence in the tropics during the rainy season. Soon after IVIr. 
Galton's arrival at Barmen there was a very heavy thunder- 
storm. One evening, as he and Mr. Hahn were conversing, 
they saw a Damara struck dead by lightning within a hund- 
red yards of where they stood. 

Water was abundant at Barmen, -and very good. Mr. 
Hahn had dug a large well in his own garden, which was of 
very great convenience and comfort, as the water thus ob- 
tained was always clean and wholesome. Within a couple 
of hundred paces of the dwelling-house there were, moreover, 
two copious fountains. One of these was a warm spring, 
the temperature being 157 degrees of Fahrenheit. By means 
of small channels, this spring was made to irrigate a consid- 
erable portion of garden land, and was also of great use in 
seasoning timber. To the laundress, besides, it was invalu- 
able. During our stay at Barmen we indulged freely in the 
unusual and uncommon luxury of a bath, but it proved 
somewhat relaxing. 

Mr. Hahn was a Russian by birth, but had, for a number 
of years, devoted himself to the service of the German Rhen- 
ish Missionary Society, and was now using his best endeav- 
ors to convert the natives of this benighted land. At first 
he had settled among a tribe of Namaquas, under the pow- 
erful robber - chief Jonker Afrikaner, of whom presently. 
Finding, however, that these people infinitely preferred to 
cut the throats of their fell owr creatures than to listen to his 



THE MISSIONARIES AND THE NATIVES. 109 

exhortations, and knowing, moreover, that several mission- 
aries had abeady established themselves throughout various 
parts of Great Namaqua-land, he thought that he might use 
his influence to more advantage with the Damaras, among 
whom, therefore, he had pitched his tent. Messrs. Rath and 
Kolbe were his coadjutors in the good cause. 

Seeing that their best endeavors were of little avail with- 
out a proper knowledge of the Damara language, they work- 
ed hard in order to master it, but the difficulty was immense. 
At last, by the merest chance, they discovered the key to it, 
and from that moment they made rapid progress ; so much 
so that, in the course of a few years, Mr. Hahn was able to 
return to Germany, where he has compiled and published a 
grammar and dictionary. 

On the fiirst appearance of the missionaries in Damara- 
land, the natives were very reserved, and retired with their 
cattle into the interior. Being wholly dependent on them 
for supplies of live-stock, the settlers suffered great hardships 
and privations. Indeed, on more than one occasion starva- 
tion stared them in the face, and they lived for a long time 
in a precarious way on such wild animals as their Hottentot 
servants managed to kill. The Damaras, moreover, prob- 
ably judging others by themselves, conceived the idea that 
the missionaries had come into the country with some sinis- 
ter object, and that it would be advisable to frustrate it. 
Accordingly, they assembled in great numbers within a few 
miles of Barmen for the purpose of exterminating the new 
settlers. Their diabolical intentions were, however, frustrated 
by the counsel of one of their tribe. At the time of which 
I am now writing, Mr. Hahn and his coadjutors had com- 
pletely succeeded in pacifying and conciliating the Damaras, 
and a great number of the poorer classes were now living at 
the station, where, by a little industry and perseverance, 
many managed to live in tolerable comfort. The great 
source of their wealth consisted in the cultivation of tobacco, 



110 THE SEED IS SOWN IN VERY STONY GROUND. 

which here grew to perfection, the leaves of this plant often 
attaining the size of three feet by two. What they did not 
consume themselves was bartered for cattle to their wealth- 
ier countrymen. 

Here, however, their civilization seemed to be at a stand- 
still. The missionaries were laudably and strenuously ex- 
erting themselves in their behalf, but as yet they had met 
with little or no encouragement. To the mind of a Damara, 
the idea of men visiting them solely from love and charity 
is utterly inconceivable. They can not banish a suspicion 
that the motives of the stranger must be interested ; and 
they not unfrequently require a bribe in return for any serv- 
ices they may render to the missionary cause. As an in- 
stance of the utter failure of religious zeal in these parts, I 
may mention that Mr. Hahn, who is liked and respected by 
the natives, never succeeded, as he himself told me, in con- 
verting a single individual! In one instance, however, he 
imagined that he had made a convert ; but, before the indi- 
vidual in question could be finally admitted as a member of 
the Christian Church, it was necessary that he should give 
satisfactory answers to certain questions. One of these was, 
whether, according to the usages of Christianity, he would 
be contented with one wife. To this the man replied that 
though he was very anxious to oblige Mr. Hahn and his 
friends personally, and to further the objects of the mission 
in every way possible, yet his conscience would not permit 
him to make so great a sacrifice as that required. 

The wealthy Damaras were even more indifferent to spir- 
itual matters than their poorer brethren ; and if they hap- 
pened to visit any of the stations, it was not for the purpose 
of hearing the Gospel preached, but either in the hope of 
protection against their enemies, or with a \'iew to business 
by bartering tobacco, iron-ware, and so forth. One excep- 
tion to this rule was found in the case of the chief Kahichene, 
who had settled with part of his tribe at Schmelen's Hope. 



1 



THE LAKE OMANBONDE. Ill 

Mr. Gallon had not been idle during my absence. Be- 
sides collecting much interesting information with regard to 
the Damaras and the Namaquas, he had ascertained the ex- 
istence of a fresh-water lake called Omanbonde. This had 
the effect of raising our spirits considerably. We had land- 
ed at Walfisch Bay with a vague idea as to our route, and 
had hitherto felt quite at a loss how to act. 

To enable us to reach Omanbonde it was necessary to 
pass through Damara-land, which was totally unknown to 
Europeans. Even the missionaries who had resided several 
years on the frontiers were ignorant of the country beyond 
a very few miles of their own stations. The Damaras them- 
selves entertained the most extravagant notions of its extent, 
population, and fertility. The people, however, were known 
to be inhospitable, treacherous, suspicious, and inimical to 
strangers. It had always been considered insecure to travel 
among them, but more particularly so at this time, since 
their southern neighbors, the Kamaquas, attracted by their 
vast herds, had lately made several extensive raids upon 
them, killing the people, and carrying off large numbers of 
cattle, sheep, &c. They believed, and with some show of 
reason, that every individual of a light complexion was 
leagued against them. They well knew that the cattle stolen 
from them by their enemies, the Namaquas, were sold to 
European traders ; and they knew, also, that if, by accident 
or design, the cattle belonging to the missionaries, or other 
white men, were stolen by the thievish people in question, 
they were always restored on application. This, together 
with the fact than a European could pass unmolested 
through the Namaqua territory, strengthened them in the 
conviction that we were enemies in disguise. 

In order, therefore, to calm their excited feelings, to as- 
sure them of our friendly and peaceable intentions, and to 
explain to them the real motive of our journey, Mr. Galton 
had dispatched messengers to the principal Damara chiefs. 



112 A SUKPRISE. 

He also wrote to Jonker Afrikaner (having previously sent 
messengers to him while at Richterfeldt), remonstrating with 
him on the barbarity and injustice of his conduct. Jonker 
is a leading chieftain among the Namaqua-Hottentots. He 
headed in person the greater part of the marauding expedi- 
tions into Damara-land. 

Having spent a few days agreeably and usefully at Bar- 
men, we prepared to return to our camp at Richterfeldt ; but 
when the day of departure had arrived, I felt very feverish, 
and Galton was obliged to prosecute his journey without me. 
In a short time, however, I was able to follow. 

On riding briskly along early one morning, I observed, as 
I thought, a solitary zebra a few hundred yards in advance. 
Instantly aHghting, and leaving " Spring" to take care of 
himself, I made toward the quarry, gun in hand, under cover 
of a few small trees. Having proceeded for some distance, I 
peeped cautiously from behind a bush, when I found, to my 
astonishment, that the animal which I had taken for a zebra 
was nothing less than a noble lion. He was quietly gazing 
at me. I must confess I felt a little startled at the unex- 
pected apparition ; but, recovering quickly from my surprise, 
I advanced to meet him. He, however, did not think fit to 
wait till I was within proper range, but turned tail, and fled 
toward the Swakop. Hoping to be able to come to close 
quarters with him, I followed at the top of my speed, and 
was rapidly gaining ground on the brute, when suddenly, 
with two or three immense bounds, he cleared an open space, 
and was the next moment hidden from view among the thick 
reeds that here lined the banks of the river. Having no 
dogs with me, all my efforts to dislodge him from his strong- 
hold proved unavailing. While still lingering about the 
place, I came upon the carcass of a gnoo, on which a troop 
of lions had apparently been feasting not many minutes pre- 
viously. Undoubtedly my somewhat dastardly friend had 
been one of the party. 



CHASE OF A GNOO. 113 

In the afternoon of the same day that I reached Richter- 
feldt a very exciting and animating chase took place. A 
gnoo had been slightly wounded by a Hottentot servant of 
Mr. Rath. The natives, who had watched the whole affair 
from the station, immediately gave chase to the animal. 
Finding itself hard pressed, the gnoo, in its fright, took ref- 
uge in the village, where it was quickly hemmed in on all 
sides. Every woman and child had turned out to witness its 
destruction, while the men were vociferously contending about 
the right to the carcass. Assegais and arrows, moreover, 
were whizzing thick round our ears, and I had considerable 
difficulty in making my way through this scene of confusion 
to the poor gnoo, which I found at bay in the middle of Mr. 
Rath's sheep-kraal, not twenty feet from his own dwelling. 
It was pierced with two assegais, and the blood flowed in 
streams down its panting and foaming sides. 

Though the gnoo is but a comparatively small animal, its 
high fore quarters, its coarse and shaggy mane, and its buffalo 
head, gives it a very imposing and formidable appearance. 
It was impatiently stamping and striking the ground with its 
fore feet, and its looks seemed to bid defiance to us all. 

At some risk, on account of the immense concourse of 
people assembled, I put a ball through the animal's shoul- 
ders, which at once ended its sufferings. A few minutes more 
— ^nay, rather seconds — there was not a vestige to be seen of 
it. Indeed, it was literally torn to pieces by the natives. 

On paying my respects, later in the evening, to Mr. and 
Mrs. Rath, I was politely informed that the penalty for 
shooting the gnoo was a goat. This being explained, I found, 
to my surprise, that the ball had passed clean through the 
antelope, and had struck dead a goat belonging to these 
worthy people. 

The day previously to my reaching the encampment, Mr. 
Galton had started on an excursion to the westward. His 
object was chiefly to procure cattle from the natives, for we 



114 LION HUNT. 

had not yet succeeded in obtaining a sufficiency of animals. 
He was also anxious to see and explore Erongo, a mountain 
famous at once for its peculiar formation, and as a strong- 
hold of that curious race, the Hill-Damaras. Mr. Galton 
was accompanied by Hans, who had already visited the place, 
and a few other servants. On his return from Erongo, we 
were to start, with the wagons, up the country. 

One day, when eating my humble dinner, I was interrupt- 
ed by the arrival of several natives, who, in breathless haste, 
related that an ongeama, or lion, had just killed one of their 
goats close to the mission station (Richterfeldt), and begged 
of me to lend them a hand in destroying the beast. They 
had so often cried " wolf" that I did not give much heed to 
their statements ; but, as they persisted in their story, I at 
last determined to ascertain its truth. Having strapped to 
my waist a shooting-belt, containing the several requisites of 
a hunter, such as bullets, caps, knife, &c., I shouldered my 
trusty double-barreled gun (after loading it with steel-point- 
ed balls), and followed the men. 

In a short time we reached the spot where the lion was 
believed to have taken refuge. This was in a dense tama- 
risk brake of some considerable extent, situated partially on 
and below the sloping banks of the Swakop, near to its junc- 
tion with the Ommutenna, one of its tributaries. 

On the rising ground above the brake in question were 
drawn up, in battle array, a number of Damaras and Nama- 
quas, some armed with assegais, and a few with guns. Oth- 
ers of the party were in the brake itself, endeavoring to oust 
the lion. 

But as it seemed to me that the "beaters" were timid, 
and, moreover, somewhat slow in their movements, I called 
them back, and, accompanied by only one or two persons, as 
also a few worthless dogs, entered the brake myself It was 
rather a dangerous proceeding ; for, in places, the cover was 
so thick and tangled as to oblige me to creep on my hands 



LION HUNT. 115 

and knees, and the lion, in consequence, might easily have 
pounced upon me without a moment's warning. At that 
time, however, I had not obtained any experimental knowl- 
edge of the old saying, " A burnt child dreads the fire," and 
therefore felt little or no apprehension. 

Thus I had proceeded for some time, when suddenly, and 
within a few paces of where I stood, I heard a low, angry 
growl, which caused the dogs, with hair erect in the manner 
of hogs' bristles, and with their tails between their legs, to 
slink behind my heels. Immediately afterward a tremendous 
shout of " Ongeama ! Ongeama !" was raised by the natives 
on the bank above, followed by a discharge of fire-arms. 
Presently, however, all was still again, for the lion, as I sub- 
sequently learned, after showing himself on the outskirts of 
the brake, had retreated into it. 

Once more I attempted to dislodge the beast ; but, finding 
the enemy awaiting him in the more open country, he was 
very loth to leave his stronghold. Again, however, I suc- 
ceeded in driving him to the edge of the brake, where, as in 
the first instance, he was received with a volley ; but a broom- 
stick would have been equally efficacious as a gun in the 
hands of these people, for out of a great number of shot that 
were fired, not one seemed to have taken effect. 

Worn out at length by my exertions, and disgusted be- 
yond measure at the way in which the natives bungled the 
affair, I left the tamarisk brake, and, rejoining them on the 
bank above, offered to change places with them ; but my pro- 
posal, as I expected, was forthwith declined. 

As the day, however, was now fast drawing to a close, I 
determined to make one other effort to destroy the lion, and, 
should that prove unsuccessful, to give up the chase. Accord- 
ingly, accompanied by only a single native, I again entered 
the brake in question, which I examined for some time with- 
out seeing any thing ; but on arriving at that part of the 
cover we had first searched, and when in a spot compara- 



116 LION HUNT. 

lively free from bushes, up suddenly sprung the beast within 
a few paces of me. It was a black-maned lion, and one of 
the largest I ever remember to have encountered in Africa. 
But his movements were so rapid, so silent and smooth with- 
al, that it was not until he had partially entered the thick 
cover (at which time he might have been about thirty paces 
distant) that I could fire. On receiving the ball, he wheeled 
short about, and with a terrific roar bounded toward me. 
"When within a few paces, he couched, as if about to spring, 
having his head imbedded, so to say, between his fore-paws. 

Drawing a large hunting-knife and slipping it over the 
wrist of my right hand, I dropped on one knee, and, thus pre- 
pared, awaited his onset. It was an awful moment of sus- 
pense, and my situation was critical in the extreme. Still, 
my presence of mind never for a moment forsook me — ^in- 
deed, I felt that nothing but the most perfect coolness and 
absolute self-command would be of any avail. 

I would now have become the assailant ; but, as — owing 
to the intervening bushes, and clouds of dust raised by the 
lion's lashing his tail against the ground — I was unable to 
see his head, while to aim at any other part would have been 
madness, I refrained from firing. While intently watching 
his every motion, he suddenly bounded toward me ; but, 
whether it was owing to his not perceiving me, partially con- 
cealed as I was in the long grass, or to my instinctively 
throwing my body on one side, or to his miscalculating the 
distance, in making his last spring he went clear over me, 
and alighted on the ground three or four paces beyond. In- 
stantly, and without rising, I wheeled round on my knee and 
discharged my second barrel ; and as his broadside was then 
toward me, lodged a ball in his shoulder, which it completely 
smashed. On receiving my second fire, he made another 
iind more determined rush at me, but, owing to his disabled 
state, I happily avoided him. It was, however, only by a 
hair's breadth, for he passed me within arm's length. He 



THE LUCKY ESCAPE. 



117 




118 LION HUNT — SHOOTING ON SUNDAY. 

afterward scrambled into the thick cover beyond, where, as 
night was then approaching, I did not deem it prudent to 
pursue him. 

At an early hour on the next morning, however, we fol- 
lowed his " spoor," and soon came to the spot where he had 
passed the night. The sand here was one patch of blood, 
and the bushes immediately about were broken, and beaten 
down by his weight as he had staggered to and fro in his 
effort to get on his legs again. Strange to say, however, we 
here lost all clew to the beast. A large troop of lions, that 
had been feasting on a giraffe in the early morning, had 
obliterated his tracks, and it was not until some days after- 
ward, and when the carcass was in a state of decomposition, 
that his death was ascertained. He breathed his last very 
near to where we were "at fault;" but, in prosecuting the 
search, we had unfortunately taken exactly the opposite di- 
rection. 

On our homeward path from the pursuit of the lion we 
fell in with a herd of zebras, and, while discharging my gun 
at them, I accidentally pulled both triggers at once. The 
piece being very light, and loaded with double charges, tfie 
barrel flew out of the stock, the cocks burying themselves 
deep in the flesh on either side of my nose, just under the 
eyes, and left scars visible to this day. Mr. Rath, on seeing 
me in this plight, was good enough to say, by way of consola- 
tion, that it was undoubtedly a just punishment of Heaven 
in consequence of my having carried a gun on a Sunday ! 



A CHRISTMAS EST THE DESERT. 119 



CHAPTEE X. 

A Christinas in the Desert. — Mr. Galton's Retmn from the Erongo 
Mountain.— He passes numerous Villages. — Great Drought ; the 
Natives have a Choice of two Evils. — The Hill-Damaras. — The Da- 
maras a Pastoral People. — The whole country Public Property. — 
Enormous herds of Cattle. — They are as destructive as Locusts to 
the Vegetation. — Departure from Richterfeldt. — The Author kills 
an Oryx. — The Oxen refractory. — Danger of traversing dry "Water- 
courses on the approach of the Rainy Season. — Message from the 
Robber-chief Jonker. — Emeute among the Servants. — Depart for 
Schmelen's Hope. 

We had now been rather more than four months in the 
country, and Christmas had imperceptibly stolen upon us. 
Singularly enough, though I kept a journal, I was not aware 
of the fact until one morning the men came to wish me a 
" merry Christmas." A merry Christmas ! alas! there were 
no merry children — no joyous feast — no Christmas trees or 
other indication of " the hallowed and gracious time." One 
day was of the same importance to us as another. Moreover, 
our store of grocery, &c., was too scant to enable our cook to 
produce us a plum-pudding, or any of those dainty dishes 
that even the working-man in civilized countries would be 
sorry to be without at this season. Fortunately, we had now 
so accustomed ourselves to " bush-diet," that we did not even 
feel the want of what others might deem to be the neces- 
saries of life. Constant exposure to the fresh air and per- 
petual exercise had so greatly increased our appetites, and 
improved our digestive powers, that, though we might not, 
like the natives, demolish a " yard" or so of flesh at a meal, 
we could, nevertheless, play our part at meals as well as any 
London alderman ; in fact, we could eat at all times, and 
scarcely any thing ever came amiss. A draft of water 



120 THE EKONGO MOUNTAIN. 

from the pure spring, and a piece of dried meat just warmed 
in the hot ashes, was as much relished by us as a glass of 
sparkling pale ale and a slice of Yorkshire ham would have 
been in Europe. 

In this way we managed to live on cheerfully and agree- 
ably ; yet thoughts of home, with all its comforts, and friends 
dear to memory, would now and then flash across our minds. 
Such reflections, however, we tried to avoid, as they only 
served to sadden us. 

On the morning of the 26th of December Galton return- 
ed from his excursion to Erongo. He had been suffering from 
fever, and was right glad to find himself safe back at the en- 
campment. The trip had been rather satisfactory. The 
chief result of it was an addition of about twenty oxen, and 
double that number of sheep and goats, to our live-stock. We 
were now pretty well provided against all emergences, at 
least for some time to come. Galton had, moreover, ascend- 
ed the mountain, with which he expressed himself much 
struck and pleased. He fully corroborated the story of the 
natives as to its impregnability, for it was accessible only 
in one or two places, and these could easily be defended 
against a whole army by a mere handful of men. 

In round numbers, it was about three thousand feet above 
the level of the plain, and extended in a straight line upward 
of fifteen miles. The vegetation appeared very much the 
same as elsewhere in Damara-land, but perhaps more rank. 
The wild fig-tree grew rather plentifully among the crevices 
of the rocks, and the travelers obtained an abundance of the 
fruit, which was very palatable. 

Erongo was only inhabited by Hiil-Damaras, under the 
rule of different petty chiefs. From all accounts, they were 
possessed of numerous herds of cattle ; but my friend only 
saw their tracks, as the natives were unwilling to sell or to 
exhibit any of the animals. They waged an exterminating 
war with the Damaras, who lived in the plains below, and, 



THE ERONGO MOUNTAIN STRANGE CUSTOM. 121 

having seen the party pass unmolested through the territory 
of their mortal enemies, they were naturally suspicious as to 
their motive. They probably thought that Mr. Galton had 
come vs^ith a view to spy out and reconnoitre their stronghold, 
and then to return with re-enforcements in order to carry 
off their cattle. 

Both in going and coming Galton had passed through sev- 
eral large villages of Damaras, who complained bitterly of 
the severe drought, which was daily carrying off numbers of 
their stock. The only place that still afforded grass and wa- 
ter in tolerable abundance was the country bordering on the 
River Swakop; but there they feared the Namaquas. How- 
ever, they had only two alternatives — either to risk being- 
plundered by these unscrupulous people, or to perish, with 
their cattle, from hunger and thirst. The first of these was 
thought the least of the two, and they were, therefore, grad- 
ually approaching the dangerous district. Indeed, several 
kraals had already been established at Richterfeldt. 

Being entirely a pastoral people, the Damaras have no 
notions of permanent habitations. The whole country is con- 
sidered public property. As soon as the grass is eaten off 
or the water exhausted in one place, they move away to an- 
other. Notwithstanding this, and the loose notions gener- 
ally entertained by them as to meum and iuum, there is an 
understanding that he who arrives first at any given locality 
is the master of it as long as he chooses to remain there, and 
no one will intrude upon him without having previously ask- 
ed and obtained his permission. The same is observed even 
with regard to strangers. Thus the once powerful chief 
Kahichene was anxious to take up his quarters at Richter- 
feldt ; but, acting on the understanding described, he first dis- 
patched some of his head men to Mr. Rath, to ascertain from 
him how far he was agreeable to his proposal. The reverend 
gentleman replied that their master could do as he liked in 
this matter, as he himself was but a stranger, and conse- 

F 



122 



IMMENSE HERDS OF CATTLE. 



quently could not lay any claim to the soil. However, the 
messengers would not listen to this, and told him that their 
chief would never think of intruding without having obtained 
special permission to do so. 

At this period Kahichene was supposed to be the richest 
and most potent chieftain throughout the country. His 
wealth, of course, consisted solely in oxen and sheep. To 
give some idea of the number he then possessed, I will state 
that, early on the day after the interview just mentioned had 
taken place, the first droves began to make their appearance, 
and continued to arrive, without intermission, till late in the 
evening of the second day. Moreover, they did not come in 
files of one or two, but the whole bed and banks of the Swa- 
kop were actually covered with one living mass of oxen ; and, 
after all, this was but a small portion of what he really own- 
ed. In the space of three short weeks not a blade of grass 
or green thing was to be met with for many miles on either 
side of Richterfeldt. Indeed, a person unacquainted with 
the real cause of this desolation would have been likely to 
attribute it to the devastating influence of that scourge of Af- 
rica, the locust. ' 

Much valuable time had hitherto been lost in obtaining 
information of the country and the inhabitants, in buying 
and breaking-in of cattle, and so forth, and this without our 
having accomplished any considerable distance. We were 
now in hopes, however, of being able to prosecute our journey 
in earnest, and no time was lost in making the final arrange- 
ments for our departure. Our intended route lay to the north 
of Eichterfeldt ; but as the country was said to be very hilly 
and densely wooded, we deemed it advisable to proceed via 
Barmen. As hardly mules enough were left to draw the cart, 
it was thought best to leave it behind in charge of Mr. Rath, 
who kindly promised to look after it in our absence. The 
two wagons were thought sufficiently large to contain our- 
selves and baggage. 



DEPARTURE FROM RICHTERFELDT. 123 

The oxen, which from the beginnmg had been only par- 
tially broken-in, were now, from their long rest, wild, refrac- 
tory, and unmanageable in the extreme. Before we could 
effectually secure the two spans (teams) necessary for the 
wagons, several hours had elapsed, and it was not till late 
in the afternoon of the 30th of December, 1850, that we 
were able to bid a final farewell to Richterfeldt and its oblig- 
ing inhabitants. 

We made but little progress the first day ; and when we 
bivouacked for the night, which was on the right bank of the 
Swakop, we were only three hours' journey from the mis- 
sionary station. Indeed, we were obliged to come to an ear- 
ly halt in consequence of the mules and some of the oxen 
having taken themselves off. 

During the night we were serenaded by whole troops of 
lions and hy2enas. One of the latter had the boldness to 
come within the encampment, and only retreated after an ob- 
stinate combat with the dogs. In the bed of the river, more- 
over, and where our cattle had been drinking during the night, 
we discovered a spot where a lion had made a dash at a ze- 
bra, but his prey had evidently disappointed him. 

Next morning, without waiting for the return of the men 
who had been sent in search of the missing animals, I shoul- 
dered my gun and went in advance, in the hope of procuring 
a few specimens of natural history, as also of meeting with 
game of some kind or other ; nor was I disappointed. At a 
bend of the river I suddenly encountered a fine herd of oryxes 
or gemsboks, the supposed South African unicorn. As they 
dashed across my path at double-quick time, and at least 
one hundred and fifty yards in advance, I fired at the leading 
animal (which proved a full-grown female), and had the 
satisfaction to see it drop to the shot. On going up to my 
prize, I found that the ball — a conical one — had passed clean 
through both shoulders, and this was, perhaps, somewhat re- 
markable, as the gun-barrel was smooth in the bore. Ilav- 



124 THE OXEN INTRACTABLE. 

ing carefully removed the skin, with the head attached to it, 
I set to work to quarter the flesh, which was rather a labo- 
rious task. 

Though it was winter (January), the day was oppressive- 
ly hot, and the leafless thorn-trees afforded no shelter against 
the burning rays of the sun. I suffered excessively from 
thirst, and, unfortunately, the wagons did not overtake me 
till after sunset. The Damaras yelled with delight at the 
sight of the oryx. They had a glorious gorge that night, 
and the return of daylight found them still at their feast ! 

With the exception of a heavy thunder-storm, accompanied 
by a deluge of rain, our journey to Barmen was marked by 
no farther incident worth recording. We reached it in safe- 
ty on the 9th of January, 1851, after seven days' travel, half 
of which would have been sufficient under ordinary circum- 
stances ; but we had experienced very considerable difficul- 
ties in getting our wagons forward. The oxen pulled well 
enough so long as the country was level, but the moment 
they had to face a hill they came to a stand, and no amount 
of flogging would induce them to move. When the whip 
was applied, it only produced a furious bellowing, kicking, 
tossing of heads, switching of tails, and so forth. On such 
occasions they would not unfrequently twist themselves en- 
tirely round in the yoke, and it often took a whole hour to 
put them to rights again. 

On account of the thick wood and general ruggedness of 
the country, the dry beds of periodical water-courses afford 
the only really practicable road. On the approach of the 
rainy season, however, these are not always safe ; for, when 
in imagined security, the traveler may perhaps all at once 
find himself in the midst of a foaming torrent. If the oxen 
are not well trained, most serious results are to be dreaded. 
There are many instances of wagons with their teams hav- 
ing been thus surprised and swept away. Our fears on this 
head, therefore, were not quieted until we were in full view 



KEFRACTORY SERVANTS. 125 

of the missionary-house at Barmen. Indeed, it was high 
time, for on the third day of our arrival there the Swakop 
sent down its mighty flood. 

The first showers of rain, it should be remarked, usually 
fall as early as September and October, but the rainy season 
does not fairly set in until December and January. 

A letter from Jonker Afrikaner was awaiting our arrival, 
expressing a wish that Mr. Galton, in person, would pay him 
an early visit, that they might confer together on the affairs 
of the country. My friend was at first a little undecided 
how to act, as it might only have been a ruse of the crafty 
chief to entrap him. However, as, under 'every circumstance, 
it would be better to know his real intentions than to be kept 
in constant uncertainty and suspense, he determined, as soon 
as circumstances permitted, to comply with Jonker's desire. 

When we bade farewell to Richterfeldt, it was in the firm 
conviction that the principal obstacles to the expedition had 
been removed ; but we were sadly mistaken. Under differ- 
ent pretexts, the natives whom we had engaged suddenly 
refused to proceed any further. Even the man who had 
first drawn our attention to the Lake Omanbonde, and who 
seemed to be the only one acquainted with it, threatened to 
leave us. Our Cape servants also became somewhat sulky 
and discontented. Indeed, two of them, Gabriel and John 
Waggoner, whom the reader will remember as havine al- 
ready given us some trouble, demanded and obtained their 
dismissal. Thus circumstanced, it was out of the question 
to think of immediately carrying our plan into execution. 
We felt excessively annoyed, and our stock of patience was 
well-nigh exhausted. Still, we did not give up all hope of 
ultimate success. 

Barmen, however, was ill suited as an encampment ; for, 
though agreeable enough as a residence for ourselves, grass 
for the cattle was scarce and distant. Mr. Hahn advised 
us to push on to Schmelen's Hope, situated at about fifteen 



126 schmelen's hope. 

miles to the northward, where, inasmuch as there had not 
been any natives dwelling of late, we should find abundance 
of pasturage. Accordingly, we acted on his suggestion, and 
in the afternoon of the 13 th of January were established at 
that place. 



CHAPTEK XI. 



Sclimelen's Hope. — Scenery. — Missionary Station. — Raid of the Na- 
maquas. — Ingratitude of the Natives.— Jonker's Feud with Kahi- 
chene ; his Barbai'ities ; his Treachery. — Mr. Galton departs for 
Eikams. — Author's successful sporting Excursions. — He captures a 
young Steinbok and a Koodoo. — They are easily domesticated. — 
Hyeenas very troublesome ; several destroyed by Spring-guns. — The 
latter described. — Visit from a Leopard ; it wounds a Dog ; Chase 
and Death of the Leopard.^The Caracal, 

Schmelen's Hope is picturesquely situated on the right 
bank of the Little Swakop, and just at the confluence of one 
of its tributaries, the banks of which were lined with ma- 
jestic trees of the mimosa and the acacia family. Some of 
these were now in full bloom, and presented an interesting 
and beautiful appearance. Heavy showers of rain, more- 
over, having lately fallen, the grateful earth acknowledged 
the tribute by rapidly sending forth her boundless store of 
aromatic herbs and plants — ^ 

"Herbs for man's use of various power, 
That either food or physic yield." 

The whole aspect of the country changed as if by magic, 
and I gazed on the altered features of the landscape in 
rapture and amazement. It strongly reminded me of the 
Psalmist's words — 

" His rains from heaven parch'd hills recruit, 
That soon transmit the liquid store, 
Till earth is burden'd with her fruit, 
And Nature's lap can hold no more." 



MISSIONARY STATION NAM AQUAS. 127 

Schmelen's Hope {Schmelen^s Vervachtung) is so called, 
partly on account of its advanced position, and partly in 
honor of its founder, the Eev. Mr. Schmelen, who, by all ac- 
counts, was one of the most gifted and most enterprising of 
missionaries that ever set foot on African soil. For a time 
this station was occupied by Mr. Hahn, and recently by his 
colleague, Mr. Kolbe. About the time that we landed at 
Walfisch Bay, however, the latter had found it necessary to 
beat a precipitate retreat, in consequence of an attack upon 
the station by a party of Namaquas. 

Shortly after Mr. Kolbe's settlement at Schmelen's Hope 
he was joined by Kahichene — of whom mention has been 
made in the foregoing pages — and a considerable number of 
his tribe. They continued to live here in the most unsus- 
pecting security. The missionary cause made considerable 
progress, and hopes were really entertained that Damara- 
land might eventually be civilized. The golden visions of a 
happy future for this unfortunate country were, however, 
speedily dispersed by the sudden appearance of a party of 
Namaquas, under the immediate command of Jonker Afri- 
kander. By this band a great number of natives were mas- 
sacred ; a considerable booty of cattle was carried off; and 
Kahichene himself had a hairbreadth escape. Just as he 
was making good his retreat, he was observed and followed 
by a mounted Namaqua. On finding himself hard pressed, 
and that it was impossible to avoid his pursuer, the chief 
turned quickly round, and the next instant, with a poisoned 
arrow, laid the man dead at his feet. 

Many acts of great cruelty were perpetrated on this occa- 
sion, of which the following may be cited. Several Damaras 
had taken refuge on the summit of an isolated rock eighty 
or ninety feet in height. As soon as the Namaquas perceived 
them, they coolly seated themselves round the base, and, 
whenever any of the poor fellows peeped forth from their 
hiding-places, they were shot like so many crows. Mr. Gal- 



128 INGRATITUDE OI" THE NATIVES. 

ton and myself visited the spot soon after our arrival at 
Schmelen's Hope, and saw the bleached bones of the victims 
scattered about, but we were unable to ascertain the exact 
number of people killed, as the jackals and the hyaenas had 
carried away and demolished many parts of the skeletons. 

Though no direct attack was made on the missionary sta- 
tion on this occasion, Mr. Kolbe nevertheless considered it 
would be imprudent to remain there any longer. According- 
ly, packing the most valuable of his goods on his wagon, he 
hurriedly departed for Barmen. 

A few days afterward, some fugitive Damaras returned 
to the place of their misfortunes, and, on jfinding the house 
abandoned, they were base enough to despoil it of its con- 
tents. Moreover, what they could not themselves use they 
"wantonly destroyed or scattered about on the ground. On 
our arrival at Schmelen's Hope, therefore, we found nothing 
remaining but the mere shell of the house. This, though 
simply constructed of clay, and thatched with reeds, was 
rather neatly executed, and had apparently, at one time, 
been the exterior of a comfortable dwelling. 

Water was obtained from a large pool or vley, w^hich, 
however, in very arid years, might dry away. About five 
miles up the Swakop was, moreover, a rather copious fount- 
ain, called Okandu, where cattle might drink. 

Generally speaking, if they have a chance of obtaining cat- 
tle, the Namaquas are not at all nice as to whether they rob 
friend or foe. On this particular occasion, however, they 
were supposed to have had an old grudge against Kahichene 
and his tribe. Once, as Jonker and a large party of his fol- 
lowers were on the way to Walfisch Ba}^, their provisions 
failed them, and hearing that Kahichene, with whom they 
were then on friendly terms, wao in the neighborhood, they 
bent their steps toward his kraal. Kahichene received them 
civill}', but refused to supply their wants. He, however, ad- 
vised Jonker to help himself to cattle from another Damara 



jonkek's treachery. 129 

chief, who, he said (though without any kind of foundation ), 
was their mutual enemy. Jonker did not wait to be told 
twice, but immediately attacked this man's kraal. In the 
fight that ensued, some of Kahichane's people were accident- 
ally killed ; but he, believing the slaughter had been inten- 
tionally perpetrated, made a furious onset on Jonker that very 
night. As usually happens, however, and perhaps in some 
degree owing to the Damaras having fewer guns than the 
Namaquas, he was beaten off with very severe loss. Though 
the affair was afterward made up between the chiefs, Jonker, 
in his heart, never forgave Kahichene's attack upon him, 
which he looked upon as a breach of faith. 

In all the attacks of the Namaquas the most atrocious bar- 
barities were committed. The men were unmercifully shot 
down; the hands and the feet of the women lopped off; the 
bowels of the children ripped up, &c. ; and all this to gratify 
a savage thirst for blood. Many poor creatures have I my- 
self seen dragging out a miserable existence that had thus 
been deprived of limbs or otherwise cruelly mutilated. 

Jonker himself would seem to have been callous to all the 
better feelings of our nature. News having been brought to 
him on one occasion of the loss of a merchant vessel (some- 
where about Cape Cross), he and his men started in search 
of the wreck. Before reaching it, some of his cattle were 
stolen, and as the theft was conjectured to have been com- 
mitted by the Damaras, Jonker sent for the chief of the sus- 
pected tribe, received him in a friendly way, and invited him 
to remain at his camp for the night, in the course of which, 
however, he caused him to be brutally murdered. Before ex- 
piring, the poor fellow requested permission to see his Avife 
and children, but Jonker was inhuman enough to refuse his 
request. On receiving a denial, the unfortunate man turned 
toward his slayer, and, wiping the blood from his face, ex- 
claimed, "Since you have dealt thus treacherously by mo, 
and even refused to allow mc to see my family, you shall, 

1'^ 2 



130 SPORTING EXCUKSIONS. 

never prosper ; and my cattle, which I well know you covet, 
shall be a curse to you !" 

It has been asserted that Jonker once contemplated the ex- 
_termination of all grown men among the Damaras, and of di- 
viding the women, the children, and the cattle among his own 
people, hoping thereby to make his tribe the most powerful 
in that part of Africa. 

On the 16th of January Mr. Galton started for Eikhams, 
the residence of Jonker Afrikaner, on his mission of peace. 
He was accompanied by Hans, John Mortar, and two or three 
native servants. 

Two days later, the mules, though closely watched, man- 
aged to elude our vigilance and make good their escape. 
Fortunately, they were intercepted at Barmen, whence they 
were kindly sent back by Mr. Hahn. Not long afterward 
they again went off, but, passing Barmen this time in the 
night, no one saw them, and, consequently, they were allow- 
ed to pursue their course uninterruptedly, and were never re- 
taken. Strange to relate, these animals (with the exception 
of two that were destroyed by lions in the neighborhood of 
Richterfeldt) ultimately found their way back to Schepp- 
mansdorf, having traveled above 200 miles by themselves ! 

During Mr. Galton' s absence I managed to beguile the 
time agreeably and usefully. Indeed, I spent some of my 
happiest days in this quiet, secluded, and charming spot, in 
the full enjoyment of unrestrained liberty. The mornings 
were usually devoted to excursions in the neighborhood in 
search of game. Of quadrupeds, we had the giraffe, the 
gnoo, the gemsbok, the springbok, the koodoo, the pallah, the 
steinbok, &c., so that I had no difficulty in keeping the lard- 
er pretty well supplied. I also made many an interesting 
and valuable addition to my collection of specimens of nat- 
ural history. 

One day a young steinbok was captured, as also a koo- 
doo, and I was fortunate enough to rear both. 



DEATH OF TWO FAVORITES IlYiENAS. 131 

With the steinbok I had very little trouble, a she-goat, 
whom I deprived of its kid, having taken to it kindly, and 
become to it a second mother. The koodoo did not give me 
much more trouble ; for, after a few days, during which milk 
was given to it with a spoon, it would of itself suck from 
what mothers call a " feeding-bottle,"* and butt and pull 
away at it as if it was drawing nourishment from the teats 
of its dam. 

Both the steinbok and the koodoo were very pretty crea- 
tures, and in a short time became very tame and affectionate. 
Their lively and graceful caperings, and playful frolics, were 
to us all a source of much amusement. Their end, however, 
was somewhat tragical : the steinbok died from exhaustion 
after a severe day's march, and the koodoo, which would 
have been a valuable addition to the beautiful menagerie in 
Regent's Park, I was obliged to kill, because we could not 
obtain a sufficiency of proper food for its maintenance, and 
had no room in the wagon for its conveyance. It grieved me 
much to destroy the poor creature, but there was no alterna- 
tive. 

Hyasnas, called wolves by the colonists, were very nu- 
merous at Schmelen's Hope, and exceedingly audacious and 
troublesome. More than once, during dark and drizzling 
nights, they made their way into the sheep-kraal, where they 
committed sad havoc. We had several chases after them, 
but they managed invariably to elude us. 

To get rid of these troublesome guests, we placed some 
spring-guns in their path, and by means of this contrivance 
compassed the death of several. 

The manner in which the spring-gun is set for the hyaena 
is as follows : 

Two young trees are selected and divested of their lower 
branches, or, in lieu of such, a couple of stout posts, firmly 

* A bottle of any kind, filled with milk, and with a quill (enveloped 
in linen) inserted in the cork. 



132 



SPRING GUN FOR THE HY^NA, 



,^;'i'ii!iiiife. 



\ 







V i 



'^^m'^^^Mkii 



ml/J- 



VISIT PROM A LEOPARD. 133 

driven into the ground, will answer the purpose equally well. 
To these trees or posts, as the case may be, the gun is firmlj 
lashed in a horizontal position, and with the muzzle pointing 
slightly upward. A piece of wood about six inches in length 
— the lever, in short — is tied to the side of the gun-stock in 
such a manner as to move slightly forward and backward. 
A short piece of string connects the trigger with the lower 
part of the lever. To the upper extremity of the latter is 
attached a longer piece of cord, to the outer end of which, 
after it has been passed through one of the empty ramrod 
tubes, is tied a lump of flesh, which is pushed over the muz- 
zle of the gun. 

These matters being arranged, a sort of fence, consistiiig 
of thorny bushes, is made around the spot, only one small, 
narrow opening being left, and that right in front of the 
muzzle of the gun. A " drag," consisting of tainted flesh or 
other offal, is then trailed from diflerent points of the sur- 
rounding country directly up to the " toils." 

When the hyaena seizes the bait — which she can only do 
by gaping across the muzzle of the weapon — and pulls at it, 
the gun at once explodes, and the chances are a hundred to 
one that the brains of the animal are scattered far and wide. 

During our stay at Schmelen's Hope we not unfrequently 
received visits from leopards, by the Dutch erroneously call- 
ed " tigers," under which denomination the jD^mther is also 
included; but I do not believe that tigers, at least of the 
species common to the East Indies, exist on the African 
continent. The Damaras, however, assert that the real tiger 
is found in the country, and they once pointed out to Mr. 
I?ath the tracks of an animal which he declared to me were 
very diflerent from any he had ever before seen in Africa, 
and which the natives assured him were those of the animal 
in question. 

One night I was suddenly awoke by a furious barking of 
our dogs, accompanied by cries of distress. Suspecting that 



134 DEATH OF THE BEAST. 

some beast of prey had seized upon one of them, I leaped, un- 
dressed, out of my bed, and, gun in hand, hurried to the spot 
whence the cries proceeded. The night was pitchy dark, 
however, and I could distinguish nothing ; yet, in the hope 
of frightening the intruder away, I shouted at the top of my 
voice. In a few moments a torch was lighted, and we then 
discerned the tracks of a leopard, and also large patches of 
blood. On counting the dogs, I found that " Summer," the 
best and fleetest of our kennel, was missing. As it was in 
vain that I called and searched for him, I concluded that the 
tiger had carried him away, and as nothing further could 
be done that night, I again retired to rest ; but the fate of 
the poor animal continued to haunt me, and drove sleep away. 
I had seated myself on the front chest of the wagon, when 
suddenly the melancholy cries were repeated, and, on reach- 
ing the spot, I found "Summer" stretched at full length 
in the middle of a bush. Though the poor creature had sev- 
eral deep wounds about his throat and chest, he at once rec- 
ognized me, and, wagging his tail, looked wistfully in my 
face. The sight sickened me as I carried him into the house, 
where, in time, however, he recovered. 

The very next day " Summer" was revenged in a very un- 
expected manner. Some of the servants had gone into the 
bed of the river to chase away a jackal, when they suddenly 
encountered a leopard in the act of springing at our goats, 
which were grazing, unconscious of danger, on the river's 
bank. On finding himself discovered, he immediately took 
refuge in a tree, where he was at once attacked by the men. 
It was, however, not until he had received upward of sixteen 
wounds — some of which were inflicted by poisoned arrows — 
that life became extinct. I arrived at the scene of conflict 
only to see him die. 

During the whole affair the men had stationed themselves 
at the foot of the tree, to the branches of which the leopard 
was pertinaciously clinging ; and, having expended all their 



THE CARACAL WILD-FOWL ABUNDANT. 135 

ammunition, one of them proposed — and the suggestion was 
taken into serious consideration — that they should pull him 
down by the tail ! 

The poorer of the Damaras, when hard pressed for food, 
eat the flesh of the leopard, the hyaena, and many other beasts 
of prey. 

The caracal {felis caracal), or the wild-cat, as it is gener- 
ally called in these parts, was not uncommon in the neigh- 
borhood of Schmelen's Hope. The fur of this animal is 
warm and handsome, and is much esteemed by the natives, 
who convert the skins into carosses, &c. 

According to Professor Thunberg, who gives it on the 
authority of the Dutch boers, the skin of the caracal is also 
" very efficacious as a discutient when applied to parts af- 
fected with cold or rheumatism." 



CHAPTER Xn. 



Wild-fowl abundant.— The Great Bustard.— The Termites.— Wild 
Bees. — Mushrooms. — The Chief Zwartbooi. — Return of Mr. Galton. 
— He makes a Treaty with Jonker. — He visits Rehoboth. — Misdo- 
ings of John Waggoner and Gabriel. — Change of Servants. — Swarm 
of Caterpillars. — A reconnoitring Expedition. — Thunder-storm. — 
The Omatako Mountains. — Zebra-flesh a God-send. — Tropical Phe- 
nomenon. — The Damaras not remarkable for Veracity. — Encamp 
in an Ant-hill. — Return to Schmelen's Hope. — Preparations for vis- 
iting Omanbonde. 

We never fared better than at Schmelen's Hope. Besides 
the larger game mentioned, our table was plentifully sup- 
plied with geese, ducks. Guinea-fowls, francolins, grouse, and 
so forth. The large bustard {otis kori, Burch.), the South 
African paauw, was, moreover, very abundant, but so shy 
that to kill it, even with the rifle, was considered a dexter- 
ous exploit. One that I shot weighed no less than twenty- 
eight pounds. I have since repeatedly killed African bust- 



136 THE TERMITES. 

ards of this species, but I never saw a second bird that at- 
tained more than two thirds of the weight just specified; 
usually they do not exceed fourteen or fifteen pounds. The 
flesh is very tender and palatable ; indeed, to my notion, it 
is the best-flavored of all the game-birds found throughout 
this portion of South Africa. 

It being now the breeding season, the numerous flocks of 
Guinea-fowls in the neighborhood afforded us a constant sup- 
ply of fresh eggs, which, as has been said elsewhere, are ex- 
cellent. 

Schmelen's Hope swarmed with termites, or white ants.* 
My ideas of ant-hills were here, for the first time, realized ; 
for some of the abodes of this interesting though destructive 
insect measured as much as one hundred feet in circumfer- 
ence at the base, and rose to about twenty in height ! Ter- 
mites are seldom seen in the daytime ; but it is not an unu- 
sual thing, after having passed a night on the ground, to find 
skins, rugs, &c., perforated by them in a hundred different 
places. 

In constructing their nests, the termites do not add to them 
externally, as with the species of ant common to England, 
but enlarge them from within by thrusting out, so to say, 
the wall. Their labors are commonly carried on in the 
dark, and at early morn each night's addition to the build- 
ing may be discovered by its moisture. " They unite," says 
the " English Cyclopaedia," " in societies composed each of 
an immense number of individuals, living in the ground and 
in trees, and often attacking the wood-work of houses, in 
which they form innumerable galleries, all of which lead to a 
central point. In forming these galleries they avoid piercing 
the surface of the wood-work, and hence it appears sound, 
when the slightest touch is sometimes sufficient to cause it to 

* For a detailed account of this curious and interesting insect, see 
]Mr. Westwood (British Cyclopcpdia) ; Mr. Savage {Annals of Natural 
History, vol. v., v. 02), ^z^^.. 



WILD BEES WILLIAM ZM^AKTBOOI. 137 

fall to pieces." This is a clear, and, I have no doubt, a cor- 
rect account. I myself have often been astonished to find 
huge trees, apparently sound, crumble to pieces on being 
touched by the hand. 

Wild bees very frequently make their nests in the gigantic 
dwellings of the termites. In some years bees are very nu- 
merous. The disposition of these insects would appear to be 
unusually quiet and forbearing. Indeed, I never knew a man 
to be stung by them when robbing their nests. Commonly, 
these are smoked in the first instance, but just as often (as I 
myself have many times witnessed) they are fearlessly ap- 
proached, and plundered by the naked savage without this 
precaution. 

It is another interesting fact in connection with the dwell- 
ings of the termites that, during the rainy season, mushrooms 
grow in great abundance on their sides. In size and flavor 
these mushrooms are far superior to any found in Europe. 
Care, however, must be taken in selecting them, for other 
fungi of a poisonous nature are almost identical in appear- 
ance. Two of the children of one of our Damaras were 
very nearly killed by eating some of these instead of mush- 
rooms. 

On the Cth of February I received a visit from a great 
Namaqua chieftain named William Zwartbooi, and found 
him a very agreeable old personage. He had met Mr. Gal- 
ton not far from Eikhams, who had sent him to Schmelen's 
Hope to wait his return. 

At one time this chief had robbed and massacred the Da- 
maras in precisely a similar way as Jonker Afrikaner ; but, 
thanks to the exertions of the missionaries, he had been grad- 
ually weaned from his evil practices, and w^as now living on 
excellent terms with his neighbors. 

Jonker and Zwartbooi associated occasionally, but they 
were by no means well disposed toward each other. On one 
occasion, when the latter had expressed displeasure at his 



138 THE CHIEF ZWARTBOOI. 

friend's inhuman proceedings against the Damaras, Jonker 
told him that if he (Zwartbooi) meddled with his affairs he 
would pay him such a visit as would put a stop to his devo- 
tions and make him cry for quarter. 

Within Zwartbooi's territory was a mountain called Tans, 
where horses might pasture throughout the year without be- 
ing exposed to the "paarde ziekte," the cruel distemper to 
which these animals are subject. Almost all the northern 
Namaquas, Jonker among the rest, are in the habit of send- 
ing their horses here during the sickly season. 

On one occasion, when Jonker was about to make a 
"raid" on the Damaras, he sent an express to Zwartbooi 
for his horses ; but this chief, having been apprised of the 
cause for which the steeds were wanted, refused, under some 
pretext, to give them up, and, while parleying, the favorable 
opportunity was lost. It seems Jonker never forgave Zwart- 
booi this act of treachery, as he called it, and determined, 
let the risk be whatever it might, never again to put him- 
self in another man's power. 

Two days after Zwartbooi's arrival at Schmelen's Hope 
Mr. Galton returned. He had been successful beyond his 
most sanguine expectations, for Jonker had not alone for- 
mally apologized to Mr. Kolbe for his brutal behavior at 
Schmelen's Hope, but had expressed regret at his past con- 
duct, and had faithfully promised, for the future, to live in 
peace and amity with the Damaras. Several important reg- 
ulations had, moreover, been proposed by my friend and ap- 
proved of by Jonker and his tribe, with a view of upholding 
order and justice in the land, but how far they were carried 
out the sequel will show. 

Fresh messengers had also been dispatched to the respect- 
ive Namaqua and Damara chiefs, with a request that they 
would attend a general meeting in order to secure to the 
country a lasting peace. We could not, however, induce 
them to do this. The late attacks were too fresh in their 



JOHN WAGGONER. 139 

memory to inspire confidence in either party : each distrust- 
ed his neighbor. 

Jonker gave Mr. Galton much interesting and valuable 
information regarding the country northward. He had him- 
self made two or three expeditions in that direction, the last 
of which, as mentioned, was for the purpose of plundering a 
vessel reported to have been wrecked off Cape Cross. 

In the course of his journey Mr. Galton visited Eeho- 
both, a Rhenish missionary station, and the residence of 
William Zwartbooi. The mission was here conducted by 
the Rev. Messrs. Kleinschmidt and Vollmer, and was at this 
period the most flourishing establishment of the kind in the 
country. 

Here my friend learned with regret that John Waggoner, 
who, as the reader may remember, was dismissed at Barmen, 
had afterward acted very disgracefully and dishonestly. He 
began by selling the same sheep to a trader three times over ; 
and, just as Mr. Galton arrived, John had absconded with 
several head of cattle, stolen from the missionaries and the 
natives. My friend at once started off in pursuit; but, 
though he followed on his track for a day and a night, he 
was obliged to return without being able to overtake him. 

Wherever John Waggoner went he represented himself as 
Mr. Galton's servant, and affirmed that he was intrusted 
with dispatches of moment for the British government at 
the Cape. He added, moreover, that, under such circum- 
stances, they were in duty bound to assist and speed him on 
his way. The most extravagant reports of our greatness 
and importance had already been circulated throughout the 
length and breadth of the land by the natives themselves. 
This, together with John's impudent and confident air, pro- 
duced the desired effect. Horses, cattle, wagons, &c., were 
every where promptly placed at his disposal. Even the mis- 
sionaries were duped, and John is said to have reached his 
desthiation, enriched with spoils, in an incredibly short time. 



140 CHANGE OF SERVANTS LARV^. 

His first act on arriving at the Cape was to engage himself 
to a trader, who imprudently advanced him a considerable 
sum of money, Avhich he coolly pocketed and then decamped. 

Our lad, Gabriel, also marked his road to the colony with 
many traits of violence and insolence, but he had neither the 
cunning nor the impudence of his associate. 

Abraham Wenzel, the thief, had again behaved improper- 
ly, and ]\Ir. Galton found it necessary to give him his dis- 
missal. 

We had thus, in a short time, lost the services of three 
men; but, fortunately, through the kindness of our friend 
Zwartbooi, we were able to replace them by two others. The 
first of these was his own henchman, Onesimus, who was a 
Damara by birth, but had been captured as a child and 
brought up among the Namaquas. He spoke the language 
of these two nations most fluently, and understood, more- 
over, a few words of Dutch. What with his capacity as an 
interpreter, his even temper and general good behavior, he 
became one of the. most useful men of our party. 

The other man, Phillippus, was also a Damara by birth, 
but had forgotten his native tongue. He spoke, however, 
the Nam aqua and the Dutch fluently. He was appointed a 
wagon-driver. 

One morning, to our surprise, we found the whole ground 
about our encampment covered with larvse of a dark-green 
color. Whence, or how they came there, was to us quite a 
mysteiy. We at length conjectured that at some previous 
period a swarm of locusts, in passing the place, had deposit- 
ed their ova in the sand, and, now that the green grass be- 
gan to spring up (which provided them with suitable food), 
their progeny emerged in the shape of worms. 

At the same time many thousand storks appeared, and ev- 
idently much relished the rich and abundant repast. 

Mr. Galton's successful remonstrances with Jonker had 
pacified the excited minds of our Damaras. It had inspired 



A RECONNOITRING EXPEDITION THUNDER-STORM. 141 

them with fresh confidence, and they no longer declined to 
accompany us. The worst of our Cape servants had been 
weeded out, and their places filled with useful and compe- 
tent men. Our stud of draft-oxen, moreover, had been 
greatly increased, to say nothing of a large supply of live- 
stock. Matters thus once more looked bright and cheering, 
and we no longer hesitated to prosecute our journey. Nev- 
ertheless, before making the final arrangements, it was deem- 
ed advisable to know something of the country immediately 
in advance of us, and how far it was practicable for wagons, 
Galton having just returned from an excursion, it was thought 
only fair that I should undertake to ascertain this point. 

Accordingly, I left Schmelen's Hope on the 24tli of Feb- 
ruary, on ox-back, accompanied by Tinibo, John St. Plelena, 
and John Allen, perhaps the three most trustworthy and use- 
ful of our servants, as also a few Damaras, who were to serve 
me as guides and herdsmen. 

On the first night after leaving Schmelen's Hope we were 
visited by a terrific thunder-storm, accompanied by a deluge 
of rain, which continued without intermission till four o'clock 
the next morning. 

With my legs drawn up under my chin, and the caross 
well wrapped round my head, I spent this dreadful night 
seated on a stone, while the men, strange to say, slept sound- 
ly at my feet in a deluge of water. The next day, however, 
was bright and warm. The earth steamed with the sweet 
odors of a tropical herbage, and the landscape looked so beau- 
tiful and smiling that I felt my heart leap with joy and grat- 
itude to the Giver of all good. The misery of the night was 
soon forgotten, and we proceeded cheerfully on our jour- 
ney. 

As we traveled on, we caught a glimpse of the beautiful 
cones of Omatako, which rise about two thousand feet above 
the level of the plain. I scarcely remember having ever been 
more struck or delighted with any particular feature in a 



142 THE OMATAKO MOUNTAINS ZEBRA-FLESH. 

landscape than when these two " Teneriffes" first broke upon 

my view. 

*' Then felt I like some watcher of the skies, 
When a new planet swims into his ken." 

"VYe must have been fifty or sixty miles from these conical 
mountains, yet there they were as distinct as if we had stood 
at their base. The immense distance at which objects can 
be seen in these regions, in a clear atmosphere, is truly mar- 
velous. 

"With the exception of a single kraal of impoverished Da- 
maras, we found no inhabitants. On leaving Schmelen's 
Hope, we had been led to suppose that we should meet with 
several werfts of wealthy natives, from whom we might ob- 
tain, in barter, an unlimited number of cattle. We foolish- 
ly enough trusted to this chance, and started with only one 
day's provision. Game, it is true, we found very abundant ; 
but the animals were very wild, and I was pressed for time, 
and could not give chase to them. One evening I fired at 
a zebra, but, not distinguishing the peculiar sound of the 
ball when striking the animal (a power of ear acquired by 
much practice), I supposed I had missed it, and, therefore, 
did not follow its tracks. On passing, however, nearly by 
the same place next evening, we found that the animal had 
been killed, and, excepting the head and part of the neck, was 
devoured by vultures. The conical ball I used on the occa- 
sion was found loose in the inside of the skeleton. Notwith- 
standing the defiled state of what was left of the carcass, we 
hailed it as a perfect god-send. For the two previous days 
we had been living on zebra-flesh in a state of decay, which 
our Damaras had accidentally picked up. Indeed, our guides 
had absconded from want of food. 

One evening, when very much fatigued from the day's 
march, and suffering cruelly from thirst, our native servants, 
by way of consolation, entertained us with the following in- 
teresting account of their countrymen. 



I 



TROPICAL PHENOMENON. 143 

"The Daraaras," thej^ said, "are now watching us from 
a distance ; and, as soon as we shall have gone to sleep, they 
will suddenly fall upon us, and assegai us." 

Timbo, John St. Helena, and John Allen evidently be- 
lieved them, and looked wretchedly uncomfortable. As for 
myself, though there certainly was nothing at all improba- 
ble in the story, I felt less apprehensive than annoyed, well 
knowing the bad effect it would have on the timid and super- 
stitious minds of my men. 

On the third day, about noon, we reached the northern 
side of Omatako, where we struck a small periodical river of 
the same name. To our dismay, however, we found it per- 
fectly dry ; and, as we had then already been twenty-four 
hours without a drop of water, I was afraid to proceed any 
further. Just as we were about to retrace our steps, the 
river, to our inexpressible delight, came down with a rush. 
To those of my readers who are not conversant with the mys- 
teries of a tropical climate, it may appear almost impossible 
that a dry water-course should in the space of five minutes, 
and without any previous indication, be converted into a foam- 
ing torrent ; yet, in the rainy season, this is almost an every- 
day occurrence. Not a cloud obscured the transparent at- 
mosphere at the time, but on the preceding night there had 
been vivid lightning and heavy thunder in the direction of 
the source of the river, which sufficiently accounted for the 
phenomenon. 

On this river I saw for the first time the gigantic foot- 
prints of elephants. The natives told me that these animals 
come here in great numbers in the winter-time, and when 
the water begins to diminish they return slowly northward. 
Hans assured me that their tracks are still to be seen as far 
south as the Kiver Swakop, close to its embouchure. 

From this point we had a very good prospect of the 
country. Several interesting mountains presented themselves 
to the view. To the north, the Konyati, Eshuameno, Ta 



144 



THE DAMARAS GREAT LIARS. 



Kabaka, and Omuvereoom, stood out in bold relief. Some 
of these were similar to that of Erongo, and, like it, inhabited 
by Hill-Damaras, as also a few Bushmen. 

I was particularly anxious to learn something of the 
country toward the north, in which direction — as before said 
— our route to Omanbonde lay ; but it was in vain that I 
endeavored to get any thing like correct information from the 
natives, notwithstanding some had actually been living there. 
I was excessively annoyed, and imagined that their conflict- 
ing accounts were purposely invented to deceive and frighten 
me ; but, as I became more intimate with the Damara char- 
acter, I found that they lied more from habit than for the 
mere sake of lying. Indeed, a Damara would believe his 
own lies, however glaring and startling they might be. Thus, 
for instance, they informed me that the mountain Omuvere- 
oom, which was distinctly visible, lay ten long days' journey 
off, and was inhabited by Hill-Damaras and Bushmen, whom 
they represented as perfect devils ; moreover, that the inter- 
vening space was entirely destitute of water, and that any one 
attempting to traverse it would be sure to perish. At a sub- 
sequent period, we not only reached this mountain after four- 
teen hours' traveling, but found an abundance of water ; and 
the natives, instead of being monsters, were the most timid 
and harmless of human beings. 

This, however, is only one of the hundred instances that 
might be mentioned of the difficulty of eliciting truth from 
the Damaras. The missionaries had been living for several 
years at Barmen and Schmelen's Hope before they were 
aware of the existence of either "Buxton" or Okandu fount- 
ain, and yet these places were within a very short distance 
of the stations, and they had made repeated inquiries after 
springs. 

With regard to the distance and situation of Omanbonde, 
the chief object of our journey, they could not say whether 
one or ten weeks would be required in order to reach it. 



RETURN TO SCHMELEN'S HOPE. 145 

One man told Galton that if he started at once for this 
place, and traveled as fast as he could, he would be an old 
man by the time he returned.* 

Returning homeward, we pursued a somewhat different 
course. The first night, the men, for the sake of variety it 
is presumed, thought fit to encamp in the middle of an ant- 
hill ! I was absent at the time, and on returning, all the 
arrangements had been made for the night. Tired as we 
were, I could not well think of moving. The result may 
easily be imagined. 

The next day, in the more open parts of the country, we 
met with a very great abundance of a kind of sweet ber- 
ry, about the size of peas, which afforded us a most delicious 
feast. 

Early in the morning of the sixth day we found ourselves 
back at Schmelen's Hope, having been sixty hours on the 
move, or, at an average, twelve hours daily. Allowing three 
miles per hour at the lowest estimation, we had gone over a 
tract of country fully one hundred and eighty miles in ex- 
tent, the greater part of which, moreover, had been perform- 
ed on foot. Under ordinary circumstances, we should, per- 
haps, have thought nothing of the performance ; but, what 
with bad living, previous long rest, and so forth, we were in 
poor condition for such sudden and severe exertions. In- 
deed, before we were at the journey's end, both man and 
beast were completely knocked up. 

The object, however, had been gained. We had ascertain- 
ed that the country, for several days' journey, was tolerably 
open and traversable for wagons ; that grass abounded ; and 

* This surpasses the graphic answer given to Bjorn Jernsida (the 
bear ironside), a famous Swedish sea-king. When on his way to 
plunder Rome, he inquired of a wayfaring man what the distance 
might be. " Look at these shoes !" said the traveler, holding up a pair 
of worn-out iron-shod sandals ; "when I left the place you inquire for, 
they were new ; judge, then, for yourself!" 

G 



146 FINAL DEPARTURE FROM SCHMELEN's HOPE. 

that (the most important point of all) we should be sure of 
water for ourselves and cattle. 

No time was now lost in making ready for a final start. 
An American, who had long been in Mr. Hahn's service, was 
about to travel to the Cape by land. Although the journey 
was supposed to last at least six or seven months, communi- 
cation was so rare in these parts that we deemed it advisable 
to benefit by it. Letters were accordingly written to friends 
and acquaintances, as also dispatches for the British govern- 
ment at the Cape. 



CHAPTER Xin. 

Depart from Schmelen's Hope. — Meeting with Kahichene. — Oxen 
Stolen. — Summary Justice. — Superstition. — Meeting an old Friend. 
— Singular Custom. — Gluttony of the Damaras. — How they eat 
Flesh by the Yard and not by the Pound. — Superstitious Cus- 
tom. — ^A nondescript Animal. — The Author loses his Way. — Rav- 
ages of the Termites. — "Wait a bit, if you please." — Magnificent 
Fountain. — Remains of Damara Villages. — Horrors of War. — 
Meet Bushmen. — Meet Damaras. — Difficulties encountered by Af- 
rican Travelers. — Reach the Lake Omanbonde. — Cruel Disappoint- 
ment. 

On the morning of the 3d of March we left Schmelen's 
Hope. The alternately rugged and sandy nature of the soil, 
the embarrassing thorn coppices, and the stubbornness and 
viciousness of the oxen, rendered our progress at first very 
slow and tedious. 

On the fifth day we arrived at a splendid vley, called 
Kotjiamkombe. From the branches of the trees and bushes 
which lined the sides of this piece of water were suspended 
innumerable graceful and fanciful nests of the well-known 
weaver-bird species. The rank grasses and reeds aflforded 
shelter to a great variety of water-fowl, some of which were 
gorgeously plumaged. Here we found Kahichene waiting to 



KAHICHENE. 147 

receive us ; he had already announced his intention to visit 
us, and, in order to propitiate our favor, had a few days pre- 
viously forwarded us a present of several head of cattle. 
The chief was accompanied by about forty of his people, who, 
taking them as a whole, were the finest body of men I have 
ever seen before or since ; yet they were all arrant knaves. 
Kahichene told them as much in our presence ; but, strange 
to say, they were not in the least abashed. 

This tribe had at one time been the richest, the most 
numerous, and the most powerful in the country ; but, what 
with their own civil broils, and the exterminating wars with 
the Namaquas, they had gradually dwindled to about twenty- 
five villages, with perhaps ten or fifteen thousand head of 
horned cattle.* 

Notwithstanding Kahichene in former days had commit- 
ted many depredations against his neighbors, we could no^ 
help liking him. In a very short time he had thoroughly 
ingratiated himself in our favor. Indeed, he was the only 
Damara, whether high or low, for whom we entertained any 
regard. Perhaps, also, his late misfortunes had insured our 
sympathy. With the missionaries, Kahichene had always 
been a very great favorite, and they looked upon him as the 
stepping-stone to the future civilization of Damara-land; 
but we have already seen how far this was realized. 

Kahichene was somewhat advanced in years, but his de- 
portment was dignified and courteous. He was, moreover, 
truthful and courageous — rare virtues among his country- 
men. It would have been well had the rest of the nation at 
all resembled this chief. 

Kahichene was at this period at variance with a very 
warlike and powerful tribe of Damaras, under the rule of 
Omugunde, or rather his son, whom he represented as a man 
degraded by every vice, and particularly inimical toward 

* Previously to my leaving Africa, I learned that the entire tribe had 
been broken up. 



148 SINGULAR TROPHIES OXEN STOLEN. 

strangers. We, of course, made due allowances, as our friend 
was speaking of his mortal enemy; but the account so terri- 
fied our men that three of them begged to be dismissed, and 
they could only be persuaded to discontinue their solicitation 
by our promising them not to pass through the territory of 
the hostile chief. 

On one occasion, some cattle belonging to Mr. Hahn had 
been stolen by a party of Omugunde's men. Remonstrances 
being made, they were after a time returned, but minus their 
tails, which were cut off by the natives, and kept by them as 
" trophies." 

In conflict with Omugunde, several of Kahichene's children 
had been killed, and one or two had unfortunately fallen 
alive into the hands of the enemy. These were kept as 
prisoners. Only one stripling was now left to solace Kahi- 
»chene in his old age. He informed us that he had made up 
his mind to try to recover his offspring and his property, or 
to die in the attempt. At first he appeared anxious for our 
assistance ; but, on mature consideration, he generously re- 
fused any interference on our part in his behalf. "For,** 
said he, " when once the war begins, there is no saying when 
or where it will end. The whole country will be in an up- 
roar ; much blood will be shed ; and it would involve you in 
endless difficulties and dangers." He, moreover, strongly 
endeavored to persuade us from proceeding northward at all, 
but in that matter he of course failed. 

We had only been a short time at Kotjiamkombe when 
it was discovered that four of our best draft-oxen were stolen 
by some stranger Damaras. On being informed of this theft, 
Kahichene became exceedingly annoyed, and even distressed, 
as he considered us under his special protection. He imme- 
diately dispatched men on their tracks, with strict orders to 
recover the oxen, and, if possible, to bring back the thieves. 
They succeeded in recapturing all the beasts but one, which 
the natives had slain and eaten. With regard to the fate of 



SUMMAKY JUSTICE SUPERSTITION. 149 

the rogues, we could never ascertain any thing with certain- 
ty. We were, however, strongly inclined to think they were 
all killed, the more so as Kahichene himself told us that, in 
case of their capture, they ought to be punished with death, 
and coolly suggested hanging as the most eligible way of rid- 
ding the world of such scoundrels. We, of course, took the 
liberty to remonstrate with the chief upon the severity of 
this measure, but with little or no effect. Indeed, one man 
was accidentally found at a distance from our camp in a 
horribly mangled state, and, on being brought to us, he 
stated that he himself, together with several of his friends, 
were driving away the cattle, when they were overtaken by 
Kahichene's men, who immediately attacked them with their 
kieries, and only left them when they thought life was ex- 
tinct. He had, however, partially recovered, but was com- 
pletely naked, having, as is usual on similar occasions, been 
stripped of every article of dress. The exterior of his body 
was nearly covered with blood. The head was almost double 
its natural size ; indeed, it resembled rather a lump of mashed 
flesh ; no particular feature could be distinguished, and his 
eyes were effectually hidden from view. The sight alto- 
gether was hideous. 

Instead of proceeding due north, as was originally pro- 
posed, it was found necessary, in order to avoid Omugunde, 
to make a considerable detour to the westward. As Kahi- 
chene, with his tribe, was encamped in that direction, he in- 
vited us to take his werft by the way, to which we cordially 
assented. On the day of our departure from Kotjiamkombe, 
the chief led the way. A branch of a particular kind of 
wood (having a small, red, bitter berry, not unlike that of 
the mountain-ash) was trailed before him — a superstitious 
act, thought to be essential in insuring success during the 
pending attack against his mortal enemy. 

Before reaching the chiefs kraal, we passed the foot of a 
very conspicuous mountain called Ombotodthu. This eleva- 



150 ARRIVE AT KAHICHENe's KRAAL. 

tion is remarkable for its peculiar red stone, which is eagerly 
sought after by the natives. Having reduced it to powder, 
they mix it with fat, when it is used as an ointment. I was 
at first struck by its great resemblance to quicksilver ore, 
and was led to believe that we had really discovered a mine 
of that valuable mineral. However, on considering; the 
harmless effect it had on the natives, and that, had it been 
quicksilver, its use would have produced an opposite result, 
I came to the conclusion that it was simply oxide of iron, 
which has since been confirmed by analysis. 

On arriving at Kahichene's werft we were well received 
by our host and his tribe, from whom we obtained by barter 
a few head of cattle. Indeed, we might here have sold all 
our articles of exchange to great advantage ; but this was 
not thought advisable, as, in case of the cattle being lost or 
stolen, we should have been in a state of complete destitu- 
tion. Could we, however, have foreseen the future, our tac- 
tics would have been different ; for, as it afterward turned 
out, this was almost the last opportunity we had of provid- 
ing ourselves with live-stock. 

By a strange chance, I accidentally became the owner of a 
percussion rifle, which had at one time belonged to Hans, 
but who, years previously, had disposed of it to a Damara. 
The latter, however, finding that he could not obtain a reg- 
ular supply of caps, offered to exchange it for a common 
flint-lock musket. The rifle was a very indifferent and clum- 
sy-looking concern, and had, if I remember rightly, been 
manufactured by Powell, of London. In justice to the 
maker, however, I must confess that a man could not possi- 
bly wish for a better. While in my possession, many hund- 
red head of large game, to say nothing of a host of bustards, 
geese, ducks. Guinea-fowl, «&;c., fell to this piece. 

Game was abundant in the neighborhood of Kahichene's 
kraal, and Hans made several successful shots. Very little, 
however, of what was killed reached us, for the portion not 



METHOD OF CUEING MEAT. 151 

immediately appropriated by the Damaras ultimately found 
its way to them through the medium of our native servants. 
In Damara-land the carcasses of all animals, whether wild or 
domesticated, are considered public property ; therefore, un- 
less the natives should share their allowances with every 
stranger that might choose to intrude himself into their com- 
pany, a withering " curse" was supposed to befall them. I 
have seen the flesh of four zebras, that had been shot by our 
party, brought to the camp in a single day, and the next 
morning we could not obtain a steak for our breakfast. 

The Damaras are the most voracious and improvident 
creatures in the world. When they have flesh they gorge 
upon it night and day, and in the most disgusting manner, 
until not a particle is left ; and, as a consequence, they not 
unfrequently starve for several days together ; but they are 
so accustomed to this mode of living that it has no injurious 
effect on them. 

In this hot climate, unless preventives of some kind were 
adopted, flesh would, of course, soon become tainted ; and as 
salt, from the difficulty of conveyance, is exceedingly scarce 
in Damara-land, the following expedient is adopted. As 
soon as the animal is killed, lumps are indiscriminately cut 
from the carcass ; a knife is plunged into an edge of one of 
these lumps, and passed round in a spiral manner, till it ar- 
rives at the middle, when a string of meat, often ten to twen- 
ty feet long, is produced, which is then suspended like fes- 
toons to the branches of the surrounding trees. By cutting 
the flesh very thin it soon dries, and may in that state be 
carried about any length of time. There is considerable 
waste in this process, as fully one third of the meat thus jerk- 
ed is lost. On such occasions, the natives take care not to 
forget their own stomachs. Besides large pots filled with 
the most delicate morsels, immense coils may be seen friz- 
zling on the coals in every direction. When half roasted, 
they seize one end with their hands, and, applying it to their 



152 DEATH OF KAHICHENE. 

mouth, they tug away voraciously, not being over particular 
as to mastication. In this waj they soon manage to get 
through a yard or two, the place of pepper and salt being 
supplied by ashes attached to the flesh, which ashes are, more- 
over, found to be an excellent remedy against bad digestion. 

I frequently observed the daughter of Kahichene's favor- 
ite wife sprinkling water over the large oxen as they return- 
ed to the werft about noon to quench their thirst. On such 
occasions she made use of a small branch of some kind of 
berry-tree, such as that which Kahichene caused to be trail- 
ed after him when wishing to be successful in his attack on 
Omugunde. In this instance (as they somewhat poetically 
expressed themselves), the aspersion was supposed, should the 
cattle be stolen, to have the power of scattering them like 
drops of water, in order to confuse their pursuers, and to fa- 
cilitate their return to the owners. 

On the 18th of March we were again en route. It was 
with regret that we parted with our friendly and hospitable 
host. Poor Kahichene we were doomed never to meet again ! 
A few months after our departure he made an attack on 
Omugunde ; but, at the very commencement of the fight, and 
when every thing promised success, his dastardly followers 
(as he always had predicted) left him. But too proud him- 
self to fly, he fell, mortally wounded, pierced with a shower 
of arrows. ■.. 

Being in advance of the wagons, I suddenly came upon 
an animal which, though considerably smaller, much resem- 
bled a lion in appearance. Under ordinary circumstances I 
should certainly have taken it for a young lion ; but I had 
been formerly given to understand that in this part of Africa 
there exists a quadruped which, in regard to shape and col- 
or, is like a lion, but in most other respects totally distinct 
from it. The beast in question is said to be nocturnal in its 
habits, to be timid and harmless, and to prey, for the most 
part, on the small species of antelopes. In the native Ian- 



ASCEND ESHUAMENO MOUNTAIN. 153 

guage it is called Onguirira, and would, as far as I could see, 
have answered the description of a puma. As it was going 
straight away from me, I did not think it prudent to fire. 

Immense quantities of game were now observed, but the 
country was open and ill adapted for stalking, and, having 
no horses, it was difficult to get within range. A few spring- 
boks, however, were killed. I also shot a hartebeest ; but, 
having been obliged to leave it for about an hour, I found, on 
my return, that it had been entirely devoured by vultures ; 
but as they could not manage to eat the bones, our men con- 
soled themselves by sucking them. The flesh of the harte- 
beest is considered extremely palatable. 

The next day we rounded the cones of Omatako ; but, to 
my great astonishment, the river of that name, although run- 
ning breast-high on my visit to it about a fortnight previous- 
ly, was now perfectly dry. Fortunately, a pool still remain- 
ed on its left bank. 

The estimate of the Damaras as to the distance between 
the mountains Omatako and Omuvereoom, of which mention 
was recently made, was now reduced from ten to three long 
days' journey. These men still said that the intervening 
country was destitute of water. We dared no longer trust 
to their conflicting and unsatisfactory accounts ; but, in order 
to enable us to judge in a measure for ourselves, Galton rode 
to the neighboring mountain, Eshuameno, whence, from its 
advanced and isolated position, a good view of the country 
was likely to be obtained. After the absence of a day and 
a night, he returned with favorable news. By means of a 
rough triangulation, he had ascertained that Omuvereoom 
could not possibly be distant above twelve or fourteen hours' 
traveling. To the north and west of Omuvereoom the coun- 
try appeared as one unbounded plain, only covered by brush- 
wood. Eastward grass and trees were abundant. This, to- 
gether with a timely fall of rain, at once determined us to 
make the attempt. 



154 



THE AUTHOR LOSES HIS WAY. 



On the morning of our departure a bitterly cold wind 
swept over the dreary wastes, and suddenly reminded us of 
the approach of the winter season. Hitherto a shirt and a 
pair of trowsers had been enough to protect our bodies, but 
this day an addition of thick flannel and a warm pea-jacket 
was found to be insutflcient. 

One evening, as Hans and myself were giving chase to a 
troop of giraffes, we were overtaken by darkness, and, in the 
heat of pursuit, had completely lost our way. Hans being the 
most experienced of the two, I blindly abandoned myself to his 
instinct and guidance. After a while, however, it struck me 
we were actually retracing our steps to Omatako, and I told 
him so, but he only laughed at my apprehensions. Still, the 
more I considered the matter, the more I became convinced 
that we were pursuing a wrong course. In order, therefore, 
to split the difference, I proposed to Hans that if in about 
an hour he did not find any indications of our whereabouts, 
he should permit me to act as " pilot" for the same space of 
time, and that if I were equally unsuccessful as himself, we 
should quietly wait for the return of daylight. Hans was 
skeptical, and, shaking his head, grudgingly gave his con- 
sent. His hour having elapsed without gaining the object 
of our search, I wheeled right round, to his great disapproval, 
and walked as hard as I could in an exactly opposite direc- 
tion. Singularly enough, only two or three minutes were 
wanting in completing ray hour when I was suddenly and 
agreeably surprised to find my foot in the deep track made 
by the wheels of the wagons. Nothing could have been more 
fortunate, for I struck it precisely at a right angle. Anoth- 
er half an hour's walk brought us safe back to our bivouac, 
where, over a substantial dinner, we joked Hans on his sin- 
gular obstinacy. His pride as a skillful woodsman had re- 
ceived a severe blow, and he would at intervals shrug his 
shoulders and repeat broken sentences of, " Well, I am sure ! 
It's too bad !" and so forth. 



JDESTRUCTIVENESS OF THE TERMITES. 155 

The day after this little adventure we continued our jour- 
ney, and in the afternoon found ourselves safe at the foot of 
the southern extremity of Omuvereoom, and its sister hill, la 
Kabaka, from which it is only separated by a narrow valley. 
We " outspanned" at a small vley, where, for the first time, 
I observed the willow-tree — an agreeable reminiscence of mr 
native land. The water, however, was of the most abomin- 
able quality, being apparently much frequented by wild ani- 
mals, who had converted the pool into something like what 
we see in a farm-yard. 

At this place we had a striking instance of the fearful rav- 
ages which termites are capable of committing in an incred- 
ibly short time. In the early part of the day after our ar- 
rival, Mr. Galton and Hans started on foot, with the inten- 
tion of ascending Omuvereoom. In consequence of a sudden 
and distressing pain in my side, I was unable to accompany 
them, and, in the hope of obtaining a little ease, made a sort 
of extempore couch on the ground, covering it with a plaid. 
On rising after a while, I discovered, to my dismay and as- 
tonishment, that my bedding had been completely cut to 
pieces by the destructive insects, and yet, when I first laid 
down, not one was visible. 

Early the next morning we pushed on to a large vley, up- 
ward of a mile in length, the finest sheet of standing water 
we had yet seen in Damara-land. It was swarming with 
geese and ducks. The vegetation had a very tropical ap- 
pearance ; several— -to us — new trees and plants, without 
thorns, presented themselves, and we began to flatter our- 
selves that we had at last passed the boundary-line of those 
thorny woods which had so long and pertinaciously harass- 
ed us. In this, however, we were disappointed. The very 
next day we entered a region far worse than any we had yet 
seen, which, indeed, bade fair to stop us altogether. Our poor 
cattle were cruelly lacerated, and it was with the utmost 
difficulty we succeeded in getting the wagons through. I 



156 MAGNIFICENT FOUNTAIN FIG-TREE. 

counted no less than seven distinct species of thorny trees 
and bushes, each of which was a perfect " Wacht-een-bigte," 
or " Wait a little," as the Dutch colonists very properly call 
these tormentors. Few individuals have ever traveled in the 
more northerly parts of Southern Africa without being greet- 
ed with a friendly salutation of ' Stop a little, if you please ;' 
and fewer still, who have disregarded this gentle hint, ever 
came away without first paying a forfeit of some part or oth- 
er of their dress. Indeed, the fish-hook principle on which 
most of the thorns are shaped, and the strength of each, make 
them most formidable enemies. At an average, each prickle 
will sustain a weight of seven pounds. Now, if the reader 
will be pleased to conceive a few scores of these to lay hold 
of a man at once, I think it will not be difficult to imagine 
the consequences. Indeed, on our return to Barmen, after a 
few months' absence, I possessed hardly a decent article of 
clothing ; and, had not Mr. Hahn kindly taken pity on my 
forlorn condition, I am afraid there would soon have been 
little difference between me and the savages. 

In the course of the day we arrived at a magnificent fount- 
ain, called Otjironjuba — the Calabash — on the side of Omu- 
vereoom. Its source was situated fully two hundred feet 
above the base of the mountain, and took its rise from differ- 
ent spots ; but, soon uniting, the stream danced merrily down 
the cliffs- These cascades, falling to the plain below, flowed 
over a bed of red gravel. A gigantic fig-tree had entwined 
its roots round the scattered blocks of stone by the side of 
Otjironjuba fountain, its wide and shady branches affording a 
delicious retreat during the heat of the noonday sun. It 
bore an abundance of fruit ; but it was not yet the season for 
figs. Several half-ripe ones that I opened contained a large 
quantity of small ants, and even wasps. Great caution, there- 
fore, is necessary in eating them. 

Otjironjuba was to us a perfect paradise. We enjoyed it 
the more on account of the marked contrast it presented to 
the country we had previously traversed. 



REMAINS OF DAMARA VILLAGES. 157 

At the foot of the mountain we discovered the remains of 
a large Hill-Damara kraal. A considerable extent of land 
had at one time been carefully cultivated, and a few young 
calabashes and pumpkins were still seen springing up from 
the parent stock of the preceding season. The day after our 
arrival one or two natives came to visit us, and no doubt, 
also, for the purpose of ascertaining who and what we were. 
We of course entertained them well, and at parting gave 
them a few trifling presents, with a request that they would 
soon return with the remainder of their tribe, in order that 
we might buy from them some goats, which, from the sur- 
rounding evidences, they must have possessed in great num- 
bers. The fresh tracks of a few horned cattle were also to 
be seen. However, our friends never came back, nor did we 
encounter any more of the natives. 

While sauntering about the place we stumbled upon sev- 
eral deserted Damara villages, and our native servants now 
told us that, after the late attack on Schmelen's Hope by 
Jonker, Kahichene and his tribe had fled with the remainder 
of their cattle to this secluded spot ; and yet, a short time 
previously, they had positively asserted that the country was 
impassable for man and beast ! They, moreover, informed us 
that several bloody fights, or rather massacres, had at that 
time taken place between the contending parties ; and that 
whenever a man, woman, or child was met, and the deed 
could be perpetrated with impunity, they were cruelly mur- 
dered. These sanguinary outrages were sometimes inflicted, 
they said, by the Damaras, and at others by the Hill-Da- 
maras. 

I climl)ed to the top of the Omuvereoom, whence I had a 
very extensive view of the country to the eastward ; but, ex- 
cepting a few periodical water-courses which originated in 
the sides of the mountain, nothing but an immense unbroken 
bush was to be seen. It was in vain that I strained my eyes 
to catch a glimpse of Omanbonde, which we were told lay 



158 



THE BUSHMEN LARGE LAKE. 



only about five days' journey hence, and at the northern ex- 
tremity of Omuvereoom. 

Elepliants occasionally visited this neighborhood, and even 
breed near a fountain somewhat farther to the northw^ard. 

After having spent a couple of days very pleasantly at Ot- 
jironjuba fountain, we for a short time followed the course 
of the rivulet which has its rise there ; but it was soon lost 
in a marsh. 

On the second day of our departure we came, unobserved, 
upon a few Bushmen, engaged in digging for wild roots, and 
succeeded in capturing a man and woman, whom, with some 
difficulty, we persuaded to show us the water. The dialect 
of these people was so different to any we had yet heard, 
that, notwithstanding our two excellent interpreters, we could 
with difficulty understand them. However, by a good deal 
of cross-questioning, we managed to make out that they had 
both been to Omanbonde, which they called Saresab ; that 
the " water was as large as the sky," and that hippopotami 
existed there. The man, moreover, said that he would con- 
duct us to the lake; but this was only a ruse, for in the 
course of the night both he and his wife absconded. 

Our doubts and anxiety increased as we approached nearer 
and nearer the inland sea, and all our thoughts were concen- 
trated in the single idea of the lake. The Bushman's story 
of the water being " as large as the sky" wrought greatly 
on our expectation. 

"Well, Andersson, what should you suppose this lake's 
greatest length to be, ehf said Galton. " Surely it can not 
cover less than fifteen miles anyhow ; and as for its breadth, 
it is, no doubt, very considerable, for the Hottentots declare 
that if you look at a man from the opposite shore he appears 
no bigger than a crow." 

It would have been well for us had w^e been less sanguine. 

As we journeyed on a course somewhat parallel with Omu- 
vereoom, we fell in with a sort of vley river — if river it could 



THE LOOKING-GLASS MEAT BY THE YARD. 159 

be called, since it consisted alternately of diy, open spaces 
and deep gulleys. Both banks of this peculiar water-course 
were hemmed in by one vast thorn-jungle, which seemed to 
defy the passage of man or beast. It was doubly fortunate, 
therefore, that we met this river, as its sides served as a good 
and open road, while a plentiful supply of water was afforded 
by the occasional pools. It was here, at last, that we arrived 
at some Damara villages, on the fifth day after leaving Otji- 
ronjuba. At first the natives tried to run away ; but we 
captured a few women, which soon induced the men to re- 
turn. These people had never before seen a white man ; and 
our sudden appearance, therefore, created no small astonish- 
ment, not to say consternation. But of all our property, noth- 
ing amused them more than the sight of a looking-glass. 
On finding that the mirror faithfully reflected the smallest of 
their motions or gesticulations, they became convulsed with 
laughter ; and some of them were so excited as to throw 
themselves on the ground, pressing their hands against their 
stomachs. Others would approach with their faces to the 
glass as close as they could, then suddenly turn it round, 
fully expecting somebody at its back. It is a great pity that 
the Damaras are such unmitigated scoundrels, for they are 
full of fun and merriment. Give them a "yard of meat" 
and a bucket of water, and they are the happiest creatures on 
the face of the earth. 

After some parleying, a man agreed to guide us to the 
lake. An afternoon's farther traveling brought us to a sec- 
ond werft, the captain of which was the j oiliest and the most 
amusing Damara that we ever saw before or since. He mim- 
icked the figure and the actions of the hippopotamus so ad- 
mirably that we should never have mistaken the animal, 
even had we not known a word of the language. He also 
gave us an amusing and laughable account of the people to 
the north. 

One day more, and the goal of our hopes and anxieties 



160 DIFFICULTIES OF THE WAY. 

would be realized ! We carefully examined our Mackintosh 
punt to see that it was sound, as we fully purposed to spend 
a few weeks on the shores of Omanbonde, in order to enjoy 
some fishing and shooting. 

By this time we had lost sight of Omuvereoom, which 
gradually dwindled into a mere sand-ridge, and was now 
identified with the plain. The vley river just mentioned, 
which had so long befriended us, we also left behind, and 
were now traveling across a very sandy tract of country. 
Fortunately, though the bushes were very thick, only a few 
were thorny. Moreover, their wood, which was quite new to 
us, was of so brittle a nature that, although trees from five 
to six inches in diameter repeatedly obstructed our path, our 
ponderous vehicles crushed them to the ground like so many 
rotten sticks. A European can form no conceplion of the 
impracticable country one has to travel over in these parts, 
and the immense difiiculties that must be surmounted. To 
give a faint idea of the obstructions of this kind of traveUng, 
we will suppose a person suddenly placed at the entrance of 
a primeval forest of unknown extent, never trodden by the 
foot of man, the haunt of savage beasts, and with soil as 
yielding as that of an English sand-down ; to this must be 
added a couple of ponderous vehicles, as large as the coal- 
vans met with in the streets of London, only a great deal 
stouter, to each of which are yoked sixteen or twenty refrac- 
tory, half- trained oxen. Let him then be told, " Through 
yonder wood lies your road ; nothing is known of it. Make 
your way as well as you can ; but remember, your cattle will 
perish if they do not get water in the course of two or three 
days." 

No greater calamity could possibly befall us than the break- 
ing of an axle-tree at a distance from water. Therefore, ev- 
ery time the wagons struck against a tree, or when the wheels 
mounted on a stone several feet in height, from which they 
descended with a crash like thunder, I would pull up abrupt- 



OMANBONDE DISAPPOINTMENT. 161 

ly, and hold my breath till all danger was over, when a weight 
like that of the nightmare fell from my mind. However, in 
the course of time, we became tolerably accustomed to the 
hazards that beset us, and looked almost with indifference on 
the dangers which constantly threatened destruction to our 
conveyances. 

About noon on the 5th of April we were rapidly approach- 
ing Omanbonde, but oh, how were we disappointed ! My 
heart beat violently with excitement. The sleepy motion of 
the oxen, as they toiled through the heavy sand, being far 
too slow for my eagerness and excited imagination, I pro- 
ceeded considerably in advance of the wagons, with about 
half a dozen Damaras, when all at once the country became 
open, and I found myself on some rising ground, gently sloping 
toward the bed of what I thought to be a dry water-course. 

"There," suddenly exclaimed one of the natives — " there is 
Omanbonde !" 

" Omanbonde !" I echoed, almost in despair ; " but where, 
in the name of heaven, is the water f 

I could say no more, for my heart failed me, and I sat 
down till the wagons came up ; when, pointing to the dry 
river-bed, I told Galton that he saw the lake before him. 

" Nonsense !" he replied ; " it is only the end or tail of it 
which you see there." 

After having descended into the bed, we continued to trav- 
el, at a rapid pace, about a mile in a westerly direction, when, 
at a bend, we discovered a large patch of green reeds. At 
this sight a momentary ray of hope brightened up every coun- 
tenance ; but the next instant it vanished, for we found that 
the natives were actually searching for water among the 
rushes ! 

The truth at last dawned upon us. We were indeed at 
Omanbonde — the lake of hippopotami ! We all felt utter 
prostration of heart. For a long while we were unable to 
give utterance to our feelings. We first looked at the reeds 



162 OMANBONDE VISITED BY HIPPOPOTAMI. 

before us, then at each other in mute dismay and astonish- 
ment. A dried-up vley, very little more than a mile in ex- 
tent, and a patch of reeds, was the only reward for months 
of toil and anxiety ! 



CHAPTER XIV. 



Omanbonde visited by Hippopotami. — Vegetation, &c., described. — 
Game somewhat scarce. — Combat between Elephant and Rhinoce- 
ros. — Advance or Retreat. — Favorable reports of the Ovambo-land. 
— Resolve to proceed there. — Reconnoitre the Country. — Depart 
from Omanbonde. — Author shoots a Giraffe. — Splendid Mirage. — 
The Fan-palm. — The Guide absconds. — Commotion among the 
Natives. — Arrive at Okamabute. — Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt. — 
Vegetation. — Accident to Wagon. — Obliged to proceed on Ox-back. 
— The Party go astray. — Baboon Fountain. — Meeting with the 
Ovambo ; their personal Appearance, &c. — Return to Encampment. 
— An Elephant killed. — Discover a curious Plant. — Immorality. 
— Reflections. 

Dry as the basin of Omanbonde then was, it neverthe- 
less appeared evident that, at no distant period, it had con- 
tained a good deal of water. Moreover, there could be but 
little doubt as to hippopotami having also, at one time, ex- 
isted there. 

On becoming better acquainted with the geography of 
these regions, we thought we were able to explain the phe- 
nomenon satisfactorily. Thus, for instance, from (or to?) 
the deep, trough-shaped basin of Omanbonde leads a peculiar 
water-course, in an easterly direction, called Omuramba-* 
k'Omanbonde, consisting of a succession of immense guUeys, 
very similar to Omanbonde itself. These (after being in a 
short time joined by the Omuramba-k'Omatako) we supposed 
to be connected with some large permanent water, abound- 

* Omuramba, in the Damara language, signifies a water-course, in 
the bed of which both grass and water is to be had. 



WELLS ^VEGETATION GAME. 163 

ing with hippopotami. In seasons when rains are plentiful, 
these troughs or gulleys fill, and, no doubt, retain the water 
from one rainy period to another, which enables the animals 
to travel at their ease to Omanbonde. Indeed, by similar 
omurambas they have found their way even as far south as 
Schmelen's Hope. According to Jonker Afrikaner's account, 
a hippopotamus had taken up its abode at this place, but was 
at last killed by a sudden inundation of the Swakop. The 
carcass was washed up at the mouth of the Tjobis, where he 
saw its remains. 

On a first look at Damara-land, an inexperienced person 
would " as soon expect," as Mr. Galton says, " a hippopota- 
mus to have traveled across the great Sahara as from Oman- 
bonde to Tjobis." The fact, however, is, that this country, 
after heavy rains, differs as much from its normal state as a 
sea-beach when dry and when at spring-tide. 

Little or no rain had fallen this year at Omanbonde, and, 
consequently, it presented a very dreary and uninteresting 
appearance. In its bed, however, we discovered several 
wells, which, together with numerous remains of Damara 
villages, clearly indicated that the so-called lake was, at 
times, largely resorted to by the natives. 

The vegetation remained precisely as hitherto, but the 
thorn coppices were, if possible, thicker and more harassing. 
The monotony of the scene was somewhat relieved by clumps 
of very fine kameel thorn-trees. 

Game was rather scarce, yet I managed to bag a few red 
bucks (pallahs) and koodoos. Tracks of giraffes, rhinoce- 
roses, and elephants were by no means uncommon, but I 
never had the good fortune to fall in with any of these ani- 
mals. 

Furious battles are said to take place occasionally between 
the two last-named ; and though, of course, strength in the 
elephant is infinitely superior to the rhinoceros, the latter, 
on account of his swiftness and sudden movements, is by no 



164 



TO RETURN OR GO FORWARD? 



means a despicable antagonist. Indeed, instances are known 
where they have perished together. At Omanbonde, we 
were told that a combat of this kind occurred not long before 
our arrival. A rhinoceros, having encountered an elephant, 
made a furious dash at him, striking his long sharp horn into 
the belly of his antagonist with such force as to be unable to 
extricate himself, and in his fall the elephant crushed his 
assailant to death. 

In sauntering one day about the neighborhood of Oman- 
bonde, Galton suddenly found himself confronted by a lion, 
which seems terribly to have terrified him ; and he candidly 
tells us that, being only armed with a small rifle, he would 
"much rather have viewed him at a telescopic distance." 

As soon as we had somewhat recovered from our bitter 
disappointment, we began seriously to consider our situation, 
and to consult on our future plans. Once more we were 
without a definite object. Should we return, or push boldly 
forward? At one time my friend entertained thoughts of 
going no farther ; in which case, though it was probable we 
might reach home in safety, it was very certain we should 
reap but little credit for what had been done. On the other 
hand, by continuing to travel northward, we exposed our- 
selves to much risk and danger. From experience, we were 
aware that, to accomplish even a comparatively short distance 
in our very slow mode of traveling, months would elapse. 
In that time, all the pools and vleys which now contained 
water would probably be dried up. This would be certain 
destruction to ourselves and cattle. Besides this, our men 
were disheartened, and wished to return. However, in that 
tespect there would be less difficulty, as they were now near- 
ly as much dependent on us as we on them, inasmuch as a 
broad tract of wild, inhospitable country separated us from 
the nearest point of civilization. 

From Jonker Afrikaner and various other sources of in- 
formation, we had already learned that at a considerable 



THE OVAMBO AN EXPLORATION. 165 

distance to the north there lived a nation called Ovambo, 
who had much intercourse with the Damaras, with whom 
they bartered cattle for iron-ware. They were a people, 
moreover, of agricultural habits, having permanent dwell- 
ings, and were reported to be industrious and strictly honest. 
The Damaras spoke in raptures of their hospitality and 
friendliness toward strangers, and represented them as a very 
numerous and powerful nation, ruled by a single chief or 
king named Nangoro, who, to their notions, was a perfect 
giant in size. With regard to the distance- to this country, 
they gave us the same wild, conflicting, and unsatisfactory 
accounts as those we received about the position of Oman- 
bonde. A variety of circumstances at last induced us, let 
the consequence be whatever it might, to attempt to reach 
this interesting land. 

As, however, no reliance could possibly be placed on the 
accounts of the natives with regard to water, character of 
the country, and so forth, it was deemed advisable, be- 
fore moving from our present encampment, to make a short 
exploratory excursion in order to see and judge for our- 
selves. 

Mr. Galton, accompanied by a few of the men, therefore 
rode northward, in order to ascertain if the route we pur- 
posed taking was traversable with wagons. On the evening 
of the third day he returned, being assured of its practicabil- 
ity. He had met with several native villages, and, though 
his reception there had by no means been very flattering, we 
determined to proceed without a moment's delay. 

None of the Damaras whom we had brought with us from 
Barmen professed to know any thing of the country we were 
about to explore. The guide, however, whom we had pro- 
cured a short distance south of Omanbonde, said that he was 
well acquainted with it, and volunteered to show us the way 
to the Ovambo provided his services should be rewarded 
with a cow-calf. Mr. Galton gladly agreed to his terms, 



166 CAMELOPAKD& — PALM-TREES. 

but, unfortunately, as the event proved, paid him his wages 
in advance. 

Early in the morning of the 12th of April we bade fare- 
well to the inhospitable shores of Omanbonde. For a few 
hours we kept parallel with the Omuramba, when we struck 
into a more easterly course. 

During the day we saw vast troops of camelopards, and 
just at nightfall I had the good fortune to kill a fine, full- 
grown male, which was an acceptable addition to our lar- 
der. Before the carcass had time to cool, twenty or thirty 
men were busy in tearing it to pieces. As usual on such oc- 
casions, the Damaras dispensed with sleep, and devoted the 
night entirely to the enjoyment of the banquet. 

The next morning we witnessed a magnificent mirage. 
Lakes, forests, hills, &c., burst on the eye and disappeared in 
rapid succession. 

Later in the day we were gratified by the sight of a large 
number of palm-trees. This harbinger of a better land was 
an agreeable surprise, bringing an mvoluntary smile of sat- 
isfaction to every face. We were astonished at the cheerful 
and refreshing effect a very slight improvement in the land- 
scape had on our spirits. In the distance these palms seem- 
ed to us to form an extensive and compact wood, but on 
nearer approach we found the trees grew at long intervals 
from each other. They were very tall and graceful, each 
branch having the appearance of a beautiful fan, and, when 
gently waved by the wind, the effect produced was indescrib- 
ably pleasing. 

This species of palm is, I believe, new to science.* It pro- 
duces fruit about the size of an apple, of a deep brown color, 
with a kernel as hard as a stone, and not unlike vegetable 
ivory. The fruit is said to have a bitter taste, but farther 

* On his return to England Mr. Galton presented the Kew Gardens 
with specimens of the fruit, but I am told that every effort to raise 
plants from it proved abortive. 



FAN-PALM. 



167 




FAN-PALM.* 



north (where, as will be presently seen, we found the tree 
very plentiful) it was very palatable. On account of the 
great height and straightness of the trunk, the fruit was very 

* The beautiful drawing from which the above wood-cut is taken 
was kindly placed at my disposal by my esteemed and accomplished 
friend Major Garden, It represents the species of fan-palm or vege- 
table ivory-palm found about Natal, and seems in general appearance 
to correspond with the kind observed by ourselves. In size, however, 
it is very inferior, for, according to the major's estimate, it does not 
much exceed fifteen feet in height, while the tree of the parts of 
which I am now speaking not unfrequently attains to the altitude of 
from thirty to fifty feet, and even more. 



168 THE GUIDE ABSCONDS A COMMOTION. 

difficult of access. The story our guide told us previously to 
leaving Barmen about a tree, the fruit of which was obtain- 
able only by means of " knob-kieries thrown up at it," was 
now easily comprehended. But we experienced greater diffi- 
culty in realizing his other tales, such as the existence of a 
people who make trees their sole dwellings, while others 
were found without joints to their limbs, who nevertheless 
were able to indulge in the refined custom of feeding each 
other by means of their toes. 

In the afternoon of this day we reached a Damara village 
which had already been visited by Mr. Galton, and camped 
near to it. Previously to our arrival here our guide abscond- 
ed, taking with him, besides the calf my friend had given 
him as payment, a horse-rug which he had borrowed from 
Timbo. 

The next morning, just as I was returning to the village 
from a successful hunt, I observed an unusual commotion 
among the natives, accompanied by the most terrific yelling, 
passionate vociferations, and brandishing of assegais. The 
cause of this uproar was at first thought to be an attack by 
the Bushmen on one of the cattle-posts of the Damaras. 
However, on investigating the matter more closely, we ascer- 
tained that the apprehensions of the Damaras arose from the 
arrival of some inhabitants of a neighboring kraal, who had 
come forcibly to recover a flock of sheep which the chief had 
taken possession of under the pretext of " hunger." 

The news of our arrival had by this time spread far and 
wide, and the Damaras were flocking together from all parts 
to see the white strangers. Some of them promised to con- 
duct us to their great chief Tjopopa, who resided at a place 
called Okamabuti, which was on our way to the Ovambo. 

In the course of our journey to Tjopopa I learned the 
history of the father of one of our visitors, who, it would ap- 
pear, had been a thorough rogue. He professed great friend- 
ship toward the Ovambo, whom he allowed freely and peace- 



ARRIVAL AT TJOPOPA'S WERFT OKAMABUTI. 169 

ably to pass through his territory ; but when, on one occa- 
sion, they were returning home with a numerous herd of 
cattle obtained by barter, he fell suddenly upon them, and 
deprived them of all their hard-earned gains. When, how- 
ever, his treacherous conduct became known to Nangoro, he 
instantly dispatched a party in order to punish him, and this 
was done so effectually that, since that day, no one has ven- 
tured to molest the Ovambo in their peaceable and industri- 
ous vocation. Indeed, this tribe now commanded a large 
share of the good- will and respect of the Damaras. 

Elephants were said to be numerous to the northward, 
and the Damaras pointed to some wooded knolls, where they 
said these animals walked " as thick as cattle." At times 
they would suddenly make their appearance in the night in 
the midst of a village, and drive the inhabitants precipi- 
tately from their dwellings. 

On the 15th of April we were again moving, and the 
very next day we entirely lost sight of the palms, which we 
did not again see till nearly a whole month's travel had been 
accomplished. 

On the I7th we reached Tjopopa's werft. It was re- 
ported that through the instrumentality of his friend Nan- 
goro this man became a chief of the first order. Be that 
as it may, he was now living in very great abundance, 
though, like many who are well off with regard to worldly 
possessions, he was avaricious in the extreme. A miser's 
parsimony always increases in proportion to the enlargement 
of his property. 

. Okamabuti may be said to be the northern limit of Da- 
mara-land. It is situated at the foot of those wooded knolls 
already pointed out to us by the natives as the resort of ele- 
phants ; indeed, the ground round about bore ample testi- 
mony to the destructive propensities of these animals. The 
place was well supplied with water by a fountain springing 
from a limestone bottom. 

H 



170 UNSUCCESSFUL ELEPHANT-HUNT A CALAMITY. 

The morning after our arrival at Okamabuti, we started 
oiF on a shooting excursion, in a northeast direction, in search 
of elephants ; but, though we discovered their fresh tracks, 
and followed these for a whole day, we were unable to over- 
take the beasts. Notwithstanding our failure, we enjoyed 
the trip extremely. The scenery was novel and highly in- 
teresting. At times we crossed savannas where the grass 
reached above our heads as we sat on the oxen, and at 
others we passed through magnificent forests of straight- 
stemmed and dark-foliaged timber-trees,* fit abodes for the 
most wonderful creatures of animated nature. 

A day or two afterward a calamity befell us which we 
had long dreaded. In order to be near the elephants, that 
we might hunt them at our leisure, we had determined to 
move our camp to a fountain a few hours further to the 
northeast, that was much frequented by these animals. On 
the morning of our departure, however, before we had pro- 
ceeded many hundred paces, our largest wagon came in con- 
tact with a stump of a tree, which entirely demolished the 
foremost axle-tree. Unfortunate as this circumstance could 
not fail to be, we had, nevertheless, every reason to feel 
thankful it occurred where it did. The natives hereabout 
had shown themselves well disposed toward us. Water and 
pasturage were abundant ; and even suitable wood for re- 
pairing the damage was to be found in the immediate neigh- 
borhood. 

* These trees consisted chiefly of what in the Cape Colony is term- 
ed Stink-hout, or stink-wood. It derives its peculiar name from an 
offensive odor that it exhales, and which it retains until thoroughly 
seasoned. In the grain and the shading it somewhat resembles wal- 
nut, biit in external appearance approaches the oak. Indeed, if I am 
not mistaken, botanists have described it as quercus Africana, in which 
case I believe it to be the only" species of that kind known to be in- 
digenous to the African continent. I am told it is by far the best wood 
in Southern Africa, and seems well adapted for various purposes, such 
as wagons, gunstocks, ship-building, &c. 



WAGONS LEFT BEHIND A GUIDE. 171 

A few days would, perhaps, have sufficed to make a tem- 
porary repair ; but, as we had a journey of several months' 
duration before us, it was necessary to make the work as 
permanent as possible, and the seasoning of the wood alone, 
in such a case, would occupy several weeks. None of us had 
much experience in carpentry; but Hans was by far the 
most practical hand, and he boldly undertook the task. To 
postpone our journey to the Ovambo till our wagons were 
in order was now, indeed, out of the question. The season 
being advanced, every day became of the greatest importance ; 
and therefore, to save time, it was resolved that we should 
leave the vehicles behind, and that Galton and myself should 
prosecute the journey without farther delay by means of 
pack-and-ride oxen. 

Having come to this determination, our first care was to 
obtain accurate information of the distance, number of water- 
ing-places, and so forth ; but the Damaras proved true to 
their nature ; for, after having spent several days in cross- 
questioning them, we were just as far from our object as 
ever. Tjopopa himself was very reserved, and would neither 
provide us with guides nor give us the least information. 
He said, however, that he was just expecting a trading cara- 
van from Ovambo-land, and that, if we remained with him 
till its arrival, he doubted not that we should, by the assist- 
ance of the individuals composing it, be enabled to reach that 
country. But no reliance could be placed in a Damara. 

While in this dilemma, a man unexpectedly came to offer 
his services as guide. Without, perhaps, inquiring sufficient- 
ly as to whether he was well acquainted with the road, we 
accepted with eagerness the proposal, and did not lose a mo- 
ment in making preparations for the journey. To shorten a 
long story, suffice it to say that we set out ; but our guide 
almost immediately lost himself; and after we had wandered 
about the hills for several days, suffering the greatest anxiety 
of mind, to say nothing of physical privations, we were about 



172 BABOON FOUNTAIN MEETING WITH THE OVAMBO. 

to retrace our steps to Okamabuti, when we fortunately fell 
in with some Bushmen. We had left both our Hottentot in- 
terpreters behind, but we managed to explain to them our 
wants and wishes. With much persuasion, two of them 
agreed to accompany us to a certain large water in advance, 
of which the Damaras had made repeated mention. These 
men desired to spend the night at their own werft ; but we 
had been so often deceived, that, in order to secure their serv- 
ices, we determined that only one of them should be allowed 
to absent himself. The other was to sleep near us ; and, as 
a further security, Galton and myself agreed alternately to 
keep watch on the fellow through the night. 

During our wanderings in the mountains we stumbled 
upon a series of wells which we christened " Baboon Fount- 
ain," on account of the number of baboons which frequented 
the place. Its real name was Otjikango. 

It was from this point that on the morning of the 2d of 
May we took our fresh departure under the guidance of our 
Bushmen friends. We had not, however, been long on the 
road before we were overtaken by three or four men whom 
our Damaras at once recognized as natives of Ovambo-land, 
coming from the very quarter we had just left. They were 
part of the expected caravan, and I need hardly say that we 
were delighted at this opportune meeting. Contrary to cus- 
tom, the men had made a short cut across the hills, and thus 
we had missed each other. On the Ovambos reaching our 
encampment, however, and finding strange tracks, and our 
bivouac fire still burning, their curiosity was greatly aroused, 
and they had detached the men whom we now encountered 
in order to bring us back. We did not much like the idea ; 
yet, in hope of obtaining from them a guide, we acquiesced, 
intending presently to pursue our journey. 

The caravan was composed of twenty-three individuals, 
of a very dark complexion, tall and robust, but remarkably 
ugly, and scantily attired. Their looks bespoke determina- 



MEETING WITH THE OVAMBO DIET. 173 

tion and independence. On acquainting them with our ob- 
ject, and our wish to obtain a guide to conduct us to their 
country, they not only refused, but became very reserved in 
their manner. They promised, however, that if we would 
return with them to Tjopopa's werft, and there wait until 
they had disposed of their articles of exchange, we were wel- 
come to accompany them home. They assured us, moreover, 
that any attempt on our part to accomplish the journey alone 
would be attended with certain destruction ; for, even sup- 
posing we should find the waters — which were few and far 
between — their chief, unless previously apprised of our ap- 
proach, would never receive us. We thought their language 
bold, and at first laughed at them ; but they remained in- 
flexible. Remonstrances were of no avail, and we soon saw 
that they were a very different style of natives from those 
with whom we had been accustomed to deal. Moreover, on 
mature consideration, we thought it only just that they should 
know something of our character before taking us into the 
heart of the country. We accordingly made necessity a law, 
and agreed to their proposal. No sooner had we done so 
than they threw off their reserve, and in a very short time 
we became the best of friends. 

Mr. Galton made them a present of some meat, which they 
greatly prized. Their sole diet, on these occasions, was ap- 
parently a kind of grain resembling Caffre-corn {Jiolcus Caffro- 
rum), which they carried in small skin-bags. This grain was 
either half boiled, simply steeped in water, or, more common- 
ly, partially crushed, and then converted into a coarse stir- 
about. They kindly gave us a liberal supply of their homely 
fare, which we eagerly partook of, being quite tired with the 
everlasting flesh-diet. Our Damaras were also treated with 
a dish of soaked corn ; but, before they were allowed to taste 
it, they were obliged to undergo the ceremony (why or where- 
fore I know not) of having a quantity of water spirted into 
their faces from the mouth of one of the Ovambo. These 



174 



THEIR HABITS ^THEIR ARMS. 



« 




people invariably made use of salt with their food, a thing 
_,^ never seen among the Damaras. 
As soon as their plain meal was 
finished, pipes — of their own man- 
ufacture — were produced, and, aft- 
^^^^' er a few whifis, a song was struck 

up. One man began to chant, and the whole party joined 
occasionally in chorus. Though somewhat monotonous, the 
music was not unpleasing. 

They were armed with bow and arrows, the assegai and 
the knob kierie; but the two first-named weapons were of 
smaller dimensions than those used by the Damaras, Their 
bows, moreover, were constructed from a kind of wood called 
mohama, which, in its natm-al state, is flat on one side, and 
thus, in a degree, of the required form. 

The arrows are generally tipped with bone or iron ; but 
they do not often poison them. They carry their quivers 
under the left arm by means of a strap across the right 
shoulder. In addition to the weapons mentioned, they have 
a dagger, protected by a leather sheath tastefully ornamented 
with thin copper wire. 



4 




i 




Carpenter's work is not much 
practiced among the Ovambo. 
The rude hatchet here represent- 
ed is nearly the only mechanic's 
tool I remember to have seen in 
their possession. 




BASKET FOR 



BASKET RETURN TO CABIP. 175 

Their articles of barter were spear-heads, knives, rings, cop- 
per and iron beads, &c., but of exceedingly rude workmanship. 
Indeed, it was to me a constant wonder how they could per- 
suade their neighbors to buy such trash. Yet all these things 
were very dear; an unfinished assegai-blade or a yard of 
beads being the regular price for an ox. 

Their merchandise was packed in small square baskets 
made out of palm-leaves : these were suspended to 
both ends of the long, smooth, and elastic pole (of 
palm wood) that each man bore poised on his 
shoulder. What with their merchandise, provis- 
ions, water, &c., the weight was often very con- 
siderable, yet they traveled much faster than our- merchandise. 
selves. 

They have no idea of making use of oxen for draft, or, 
perhaps it would be more correct to say, they value these 
animals too highly to make use of them for such purposes. 

On the 4th of May we returned to our encampment. Hans 
and Phillippus had killed an elephant during our absence, 
which highly delighted the Damaras, who had flocked to the 
neighborhood of Okamabuti in very great numbers. We were 
sorry to find that our cattle, instead of improving in condi- 
tion by their rest, were fast losing flesh. This was attribu- 
ted to the grass hereabout, which was bitter tasted, and to 
change of pasturage in general. The cattle of the natives 
were accustomed to every variety of herbage, and did not suf- 
fer. Sheep, however, failed to thrive here. 

While waiting for the return of the Ovambo traders, who, 
with the exception of their head man, Chikor'onkombe, had 
now dispersed over the neighborhood in small bands of two 
and three, I employed the time in diligently exploring the 
surrounding country and ascertaining its natural productions, 
and was fortunate enough to add many an interesting speci- 
men of insect and bird to my collection. 

The natives were unable to comprehend why I thus col- 



176 A CURIOUS PLANT ^DAMARAS LOVE TOBACCO. 

lected birds and other specimens of natural history, and on 
an evening, when I returned home, were convulsed with 
laughter on seeing the contents of my game-bag. This pas- 
sion of mine (coupled with my name being unpronounceable) 
caused them to rechristen me " Karabontera," or the bird- 
killer, by which designation I am now universally known 
throughout the country. 

The vegetation at Okamabuti was very rank and luxuriant, 
but the thorn-jungles still continued to haunt us. The hills 
were covered with a profusion of creepers, low shrubs, and 
aromatic herbs. The euphorbia candelabrum was particularly 
abundant. 

I discovered a peculiar plant growing on a very large 
succulent root, protruding about a foot above the soil. It 
produced two or three immense leaves, with a fruit so closely 
resembling grapes that, when I first brought some bunches 
to our encampment, they were mistaken for such ; but they 
were not eatable — nay, the natives pronounced them to be 
poisonous. 

There was also a tree, yielding an acid fruit somewhat 
like an apple, but with a hard kernel similar to that of a 
plum. In hot weather this fruit was very refreshing, and 
not unpalatable. 

During our stay at Okamabuti, Tjopopa's aged mother 
died. The women of the place, according to custom, howled 
most dismally for a whole day. Great numbers of cattle 
were killed or sacrificed on this occasion. 

Tjopopa would spend whole days at our camp in the most 
absolute idleness and apathy, teasing us with begging for 
every thing he saw. Like all Damaras, he had a perfect 
mania for tobacco, and considered no degradation too deep 
provided he could obtain a few inches of the narcotic weed. 
He was of an easy and mild disposition, but excessively 
stingy. We stood greatly in need of live-stock, and took 
every opportunity to display our most tempting articles of 



IMMORALITY. 177 

barter in the hope of inducing him to purchase. Brass or 
gilt ornaments he almost spurned, but cast longing eyes on 
articles of iron or copper. At last he selected goods to the 
value of four oxen, with which he quietly walked off. On 
asking him for payment the following day, he smilingly re- 
plied, "Why, between us there must be no talk of buying 
and selling. You are going to stop here a long time, and 
you want plenty of food : this I will give you." 

Knowing the truth of the adage that " a bird in the hand 
is worth two in the bush," we should infinitely have preferred 
an immediate settlement to any vague promises. And the 
end justified our apprehensions. The old rogue took good 
care neither to pay his debt, nor make us any presents of 
cattle, of which we stood so much in need. Nay, he even 
went further. Under pretext of supplying our wants, he in- 
duced his people to contribute oxen and sheep, which he was 
mean enough to keep for his own use. 

Our friend Tjopopa was rather a sensual man : he was 
supposed to have no less than twenty wives, two of whom I 
found, to my astonishment, were mother and daughter! I 
have since ascertained that this is by no means an unusual 
practice among this demoralized nation. Moreover, when a 
chief dies, his surviving wives are transferred to his brother 
or to his nearest relation. 

It is in vain that poets and philanthropists endeavor to 
persuade us that savage nations who have had no previous 
intercourse with Europeans are living in a state of the most 
enviable happiness and purity, where ignorance is virtuous 
simplicity ; poverty, frugality and temperance ; and indolence, 
laudable contempt for wealth. One single day among such 
people will be sufficient to repudiate these idle notions. 

H2 



178 DEPART FROM OKAMABUTI ^VISIT FROM A LION. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Depart from Okamabuti. — Visit from a Lion. — Amulets. — Revisit 
Baboon Fountain. — Otjikoto ; a wonderful Freak of Nature ; Re- 
markable Cavern. — Natives unacquainted with the Art of Swim- 
ming. — Fish abundant in Otjikoto ; frequented by immense Flocks 
of Doves. — Panic of the Ovambo on seeing Birds shot on the Wing. 
— Arrive at Omutjamatunda. — A greasy "Welcome. — Ducks and 
Grouse numerous. — Author finds himself somewhat "overdone." — 
"Salt-pans." — All "look Blue." — A second Paradise. — Hospitable 
Reception. — Vegetation. — People live in Patriarchal Style. — Popu- 
lation. — Enormous Hogs. — ^Arrive at the Residence of the redoubt- 
able Nangoro. 

In conversation with the Ovambo, we learned that Nan- 
goro's werft was distant at least a fortnight's steady travel. 
We therefore felt anxious for the speedy return of the trad- 
ing parties, in order that we might prosecute or journey ; but 
they tarried longer than we had expected. By degrees, how- 
ever, they reassembled at Tjopopa's werft, having brought 
about two hundred head of cattle, the result of their trade. 

On the 2 2d of May Chikor'onkombe, their leader, an- 
nounced that every thing was in readiness for a start ; and, 
as we ourselves had long been prepared, the caravan set out 
that very afternoon. 

We bivouacked at one of Tjopopa's cattle-posts, only a 
few hours' journey from Okamabuti, and had jUst finished 
dinner, when all at once our people rushed toward the fire 
with cries of " Ongeama ! ongeama !" 

And so it was. A lion had, it seems, been crouched in 
the bush within twenty paces of our camp, in readiness to 
spring on the cattle that were scattered about; but as one 
of the men who was in search of fuel had fortunately discov- 
ered him, the beast retreated. He was evidently much dis- 



AMULETS LARGE CARAVAN. 179 

pleased at being thus foiled, and kept gtowling in the dis- 
tance during the remainder of the night. The following 
morning, on meeting one of the Ovambo, I inquired whether 
they also had been troubled by the lion, to which he only re- 
plied by pointing to a piece of wood — a charm of some kind — 
hung round his neck, as much as to sa,j, " Do you think that 
any thing can hurt us or our cattle, with this in our pos- 
session ?" 

The Damaras have also great faith in amulets, consisting 
generally of the teeth of lions and hyaenas, entrails of ani- 
mals, pieces of certain kinds of wood, and so forth. Our na- 
tive servants, indeed, before leaving Okamabuti, had pur- 
chased, for a few iron beads, several charms from Tjopopa's 
favorite wife, and, thus provided, conceived themselves proof 
against every danger and calamity. 

On the 24th we again found ourselves at Otjikango ("Bab- 
oon Fountain"). By this time our caravan was completed, 
as straggling parties of natives had continued to join us ; and 
we found to our astonishment that, including ourselves, we 
mustered one hundred and seventy souls. Of this number 
were no less than seventy or eighty Damara women, bent on 
various speculations — some in hope of obtaining employment, 
some to get husbands, and others with a view of disposing of 
their shell bodices, spoken of in chapter four. The latter, 
as we afterward found, are taken to pieces by the Ovambo 
women, and worn in strings roursd the waist. In exchange, 
the Damaras receive beads, tobacco, corn, &c. 

The country between Okamabuti and Otjikango we found 
well watered with copious springs, and covered with a rank 
vegetation. Otjikango itself, being situated in a valley be- 
tween high and steep hills, was not unpicturesque. It was 
well supplied with water, which in several places oozed out 
of a kind of vley or marsh — in the rainy season undoubtedly 
a little lake. We lost no time here, but were again on the 
move at an early hour on the succeeding morning. 



180 



OTJIKOTO FOUNTAIN. 



After a day and -a half travel we suddenly found ourselves 
on the brink of Otjikoto, the most extraordinary chasm it 
was ever my fortune to see. It is scooped, so to say, out of 
the solid limestone rock, and, though on a thousand times 
larger scale, not unlike the Elv-gryta one so commonly meets 
in Scandinavia. The form of Otjikoto is cylindrical ; its di- 
ameter upward of four hundred feet, and its depth, as we as- 
certained by the lead-line, two hundred and fifteen — that is, 



\ 




OTJIKOTO FOUNTAIN. 



at the sides, for we had no means of plumbing the middle, 
but had reason to believe the depth to be pretty uniform 
throughout. To about thirty feet of the brink it is filled 
with water.* 

* Shortly before reaching "Baboon Fountain" I should remark that, 
at a place called Orujo, we saw a cavity of a similar shape, though on 
an infinitely smaller scale. It consisted of a circular-shaped basin in 
the limestone rock ninety feet in diameter by thirty in depth. As it 



OTJIKOTO KEIVIARKABLE CAVERN. 181 

Otjikoto, ''one of the most wonderful of Nature's freaks," 
is situated at the northern extremity of those broken hills 
which take their rise in the neighborhood of Okamabuti, and 
in the midst of a dense coppice. So effectually is it hidden 
from view, that a person might pass within fifty paces of it 
without being aware of its existence. Owing to its steep and 
rugged sides, cattle have not access to the water ; and even 
a man can only approach this enormous well by means of a 
steep and slippery footpath. No perceptible difference could 
be observed in the height of the water ; and the Ovambo 
informed us that, as long as they and their fathers remem- 
bered, it had always been the same. It is difficult to imag- 
ine how or whence Otjikoto receives its supplies. A spa- 
cious cavern, only visible and accessible from the water, may 
possibly be the grand reservoir. 

After gratifying our curiosity, Galton and myself, standing 
in need of a bath, plunged head foremost into the profound 
abyss. The natives were utterly astounded. Before reach- 
ing Otjikoto, they had told us that if a man or beast was 
so unfortunate as to fall into the pool, he would inevitably 
perish. We attributed this to superstitious notions ; but the 
mystery was now explained. The art of swimming was 
totally unknown in these regions. The water was very cold, 
and, from its great depth, the temperature is likely to be the 
same throughout the year. 

We swam into the cavern to which allusion has just been 
made. The transparency of the water, which was of the 
deepest sea-green, was remarkable ; and the effect produced 
in the watery mirror by the reflection of the crystallized 
walls and roof of the cavern appeared very striking and 
beautiful. In this mysterious spot, two owls and a great 
number of bats had taken up their abode. On approaching 

was dry at the time, we ascertained that the bottom was flat, or near- 
ly so. In various other places we also met with similar basins, but on 
a still smaller scale than Ornjo. 



182 LAKGE FLOCK OF DOVES THORNS. 

some of the latter, which I saw clinging to the rocks, I found, 
to my surprise, that they were dead, and had probably been 
so for many years ; at least they had all the appearance of 
mummies. 

Otjikoto contained an abundance of fish somewhat resem- 
bling perch, but those we caught were not much larger than 
one's finger. One day we had several scores of these little 
creatures for dinner, and very palatable they proved. 

In the morning and evening Otjikoto was visited by an 
incredible number of doves, some of which were most deli- 
cately and beautifully marked. On such occasions the wood 
resounded with their cooing ; but when disturbed, as they fre- 
quently were, by the invasion of a hawk, the noise caused by 
their precipitate flight was like that of a sudden rush of wind. 

Many Bushmen resided near Otjikoto, and, as every 
where else in these regions, they lived on excellent terms with 
the Ovambo, to whom they brought copper ore for sale, 
which they obtained from the neighboring hills. Indeed, as 
our acquaintance with the Ovambo increased, we were more 
and more favorably impressed with their character. They 
treated all men equally well, and even the so much despised 
Hottentots ate out of the same dish and smoked out of the 
same pipe as themselves. 

We only staid a day at Otjikoto. The next morning, 
after a few hours' travel, we lost sight of all landmarks, and 
were now making our way through dense thorn coppices, 
which harassed and delayed us exceedingly. To say nothing 
of tearing our clothes to rags, they now and then extracted 
some article from the saddle-bags. Of the regular Ovambo 
caravan route all traces had been obliterated, and we now 
first began to understand and appreciate the difficulties that 
would have beset us had we tried to prosecute the journey 
alone. Indeed, without the most experienced guides, it 
would have been an utterly hopeless task. The watering- 
places, moreover, were very few, and scattered over an im- 
mense extent of country, which was dreary in the extreme. 



A PANIC ARRIVAL AT OMUTJAMATUNDA. 183 

Shortly after leaving Otjikoto, and when walking in ad- 
vance of the caravan, in company with several of the head 
men of the Ovambo, in the hope of procuring some speci- 
mens of natural history, I suddenly flushed a brace of sand- 
grouse, both of which I brought to the ground. The eifect 
produced on my companions was ludicrous in the extreme. 
They looked as if they had received an electric shock, and 
stood aghast, with their mouths wide open. On requesting 
them to pick up the dead birds, they absolutely refused, and 
seemed petrified with fear. Their conduct was the more 
singular, as, on our first meeting, they had given us to un- 
derstand that, through the Portuguese, with whom they had 
indirect intercourse, they were well acquainted with fire-arms, 
but that they were not afraid of them, as, by simply blowing 
in the muzzle, they lost all power. 

In the afternoon of the 29th of May we reached Omutja- 
matunda, the first cattle-post belonging to the Ovambo. On 
account of this being harvest-time, our friend Chikor'on- 
kombe did not expect to find many of his countrymen here ; 
but he was mistaken, for it swarmed with people as well as 
cattle. The latter I estimated at no less than from three to 
four thousand. 

Immediately on our arrival we were surrounded by great 
numbers of inquisitive people, who looked upon the European 
portion of our party as some i^arcE aves. They appeared to 
be gratified at seeing their countrymen safe home again, and 
expressed much admiration at the fine herd of sleek cattle 
they had brought with them. 

The* way of welcoming friends among the Ovambo is 
somewhat singular. In our case, after every one was seated 
an immense dish of fresh butter was produced, when the head 
man of the post besmeared the face and breast of each indi- 
vidual with an abundance of the unction. The ceremony be- 
ing satisfactorily performed on their own friends and kins- 
men, it became evident that they contemplated the same 



184 FOUNTAIN AECHERY GROUSE. 

agreeable operation on ourselves. On seeing what was com- 
ing, Galton, held out both his hands, and exclaimed, " Oh ! 
for goodness' sake, if the thing is necessary, be it at least mod- 
erate !" His request was granted, for he escaped with a 
brush or two across the face, but it created much jest and 
mirth among the company. 

At Omutjamatunda there is a most copious fountain, sit- 
uated on some rising ground, and commanding a splendid 
prospect of the surrounding country. It was a refreshing 
sight to stand on the borders of the fountain, which was lux- 
uriantly overgrown with towering reeds, and sweep with the 
eye the extensive plain encircling the base of the hill, fre- 
quented as it was not only by vast herds of domesticated 
cattle, but with the lively springbok and troops of striped ze- 
bras. If the monotony of our dreary wanderings had not 
thus occasionally been relieved, I do not know how we 
should have borne up against our constant trials and diffi- 
culties. 

In order to ascertain the proficiency of the Ovambo in 
archery, we had shooting-matches while at Omutjamatunda. 
The result proved that they were inferior in this respect even 
to the Damaras, who, as already said, are wretched marks- 
men. The poor despised Bushmen beat both tribes out and 
out in the use of the bow, which, however, is to be expected, 
since they subsist in a great measure by the chase. 

During the two days we remained at Omutjamatunda we 
amused ourselves with shooting ducks and birds of the grouse 
kind. Both were abundant, but more especially the latter, 
jvhich literally obscured the air with their number^ every 
morning and evening, when they came to quench their 
thirst. It is, however, only in the dry season, as in the 
present instance, that they are observed in such astonishing 
"multitudes. They usually go far in search of food, and al' 
though a pair only may be seen at starting in quest of wa- 
ter, yet, as they draw nearer to the pool, they describe wide 



INTENSE COLD THE AUTHOR NEARLY BURNED. 185 

and continued circles over it, and thus, by giving time for oth- 
ers to arrive, increase their numbers. 

There is a great variety among the grouse. Thus, for in- 
stance, in the course of a single morning, and in about half 
a dozen discharges, I have bagged grouse of five different 
species, and I have procured altogether eight or nine ; but 
none of them are good eating. They chiefly live on hard, in- 
digestible seeds, often of an oily substance, which gives to 
the meat a toughness and an unsavory flavor. They are best 
when made into pies. 

I have already mentioned that we had one morning been 
suddenly apprised of the approach of winter by an intensely 
bleak wind. Since then the cold had gradually increased, 
and we suffered much in the night-time. Hitherto the abun- 
dance of fuel we had found every where enabled us to keep up 
a roaring fire, which in some degree shielded us from the 
night air. At Omutjaraatunda, however, dry wood was 
scarce, because the place was the permanent residence of a 
great number of natives, and, as a consequence, the cold was 
painfully disagreeable. 

The morning before leaving Omutjamatunda a curious ac- 
cident occurred to me. On lying down at night alongside a 
small fire, the air was quite calm, but toward morning a 
strong and cutting wind arose. To protect myself against 
the chilling blast, I was obliged to pull the blanket over my 
head, and was thus slumbering in happy ignorance of every 
thing. After a time an agreeable sensation of warmth and 
comfort stole over me, and the most exquisite visions floated 
before my imagination. By degrees, however, this pleasant 
feeling was converted into uneasiness, and ultimately into 
absolute pain. I was writhing in agonies. By a violent ef- 
fort I roused myself out of the trance, and, starting to my 
feet, discovered that the coverlet was ignited. A spark had 
fallen on it, and, being composed of quilted cotton, it had 
for a long time been slowly smouldering, which accounted 



186 "salt-pans" A SAVANNA. 

for the agreeable feeling I had at first experienced. On the 
fire coming into contact with my body-linen, however, the 
lulling sensation was changed into one of torment. Hans 
had had a similar accident at Schmelen's Hope, on which 
occasion almost the whole of the skins, &c., spread beneath 
him were consumed before he was aware of what had hap- 
pened. From that day forward, as may be supposed, I al- 
ways made my bed far away from the fire. 

On the last day of May we were again on the move. Mes- 
sengers were started in advance to apprise King Nangoro of 
our approach, and to convey to him a few trifling presents. 
They would probably reach his capital in about two days. 

In the course of the first day's journey we traversed an 
immense hollow, called Etosha, covered with saline incrus- 
tations, and having wooded and well-defined borders. Such 
places are in Africa designated " salt-pans." The surface 
consisted of a soft, greenish-yellow clay soil, strewed with 
fragments of small sandstone of a purple tint. Strange to 
relate, we had scarcely been ten minutes on this ground 
when the lower extremities of ourselves and cattle became of 
the same purple color. In some rainy seasons, the Ovambo 
informed us, the locality was flooded, and had all the appear- 
ance of a lake ; but now it was quite dry, and the soil strong- 
ly impregnated with salt. Indeed, close in shore, this com- 
modity was to be had of a very pure quality. 

At night we bivouacked on the southern extremity of a 
boundless savanna, called Otjihako-tja-Muteya, totally des- 
titute of trees, and even bushes. The natives were unable to 
give us an idea of its real extent ; but, as far as we could 
learn, it reached to the sea on the west. Like Etosha, it 
had distinct and wooded borders. 

The second of June will ever be remembered by us. On 
the afternoon of that day we first set eye on the beautiful and 
fertile plains of Ondonga, the country of the Qvambo. Vain 
would be any attempt to describe the sensations of delight 



A PARADISE HOSPITABLE RECEPTION. 187 

and pleasure experienced by us on that memorable occasion, 
or to give an idea of the enchanting panoramic scene that all 
at once opened on our view. Suffice it to say that, instead 
of the eternal jungles, where every moment we were in dan- 
ger of being dragged out of our saddles by the merciless 
thorns, the landscape now presented an apparently bound- 
less field of yellow corn, dotted with numerous peaceful home- 
steads, and bathed in the soft light of a declining tropical 
sun. Here and there, moreover, arose gigantic, wide-spread- 
ing, and dark-foliaged timber and fruit trees, while innumer- 
able fan-like palms, either singly or in groups, completed the 
picture. To us it was a perfect elysium, and well rewarded 
us for every former toil and disappointment. My friend, 
who had traveled far and wide, confessed he had never seen 
any thing that could be compared to it. Often since have I 
conjured up to my imagination this scene, and have thought 
it might not inaptly be compared to stepping out of a hot, 
white, and shadowless road into a park fresh with verdure, 
and cool with the umbrage cast down by groups of reverend 
trees. 

The first dwelling that lay in our path was that of old 
Naitjo, one of the chief men of our trading caravan, who, 
after having feasted us on such fare as the country produced 
(among which was a dish of hot dough steeped in melted 
butter), conducted us over his extensive establishment, com- 
prising his harem, his children, granaries, and so forth. Tim- 
bo was in ecstasies with the country and its hospitable in- 
habitants, and declared that it was as like as two peas to 
his own native land.* 

Another hour's travel brought us to the residence of our 
guide Chikor'onkombe, where we remained two nights and a 
day to rest our weary animals. Poor creatures! they had 
had no water for two entire days, and the consequence was 
that during the first night they broke out of the inclosures 
and strayed far away in search of it. 



188 LARGE TREES ^PALM-FRUIT ROADS GRAIN. 

On the 4th we again set forward. The aspect of the 
country was still characterized by the greatest abundance, 
and the trees became even more numerous. 

Nearly all produced edible fruit, though some were not 
•yet ripe. The trees, moreover, were on a grander scale than 
heretofore. One kind in particular — that mentioned as 
bearing a fruit somewhat resembhng an apple — attained to 
a most astonishing size. Indeed, the branches of one that 
we measured spread over a space of ground one hundred and 
forty-four feet in diameter, or four hundred and thirty-two in 
circumference ! 

The palms growing hereabout — the stems of which, before 
they began to branch out, often rose to fifty and sixty feet — 
were, to all appearance, of the same kind as that v/e had 
seen about two hundred miles to the southward ; but the 
fruit proved very good. When slightly soaked in water — 
which, by-the-by, is the best way of eating it — it tasted pre- 
cisely like gingerbread. 

There appeared to be no roads of any description. For- 
tunately, however, the harvest had just been completed, or 
nearly so, and without damage to the owners we were there- 
fore enabled to cross the fields as the crow flies. 

Two dijfferent kinds of grain we found indigenous to this 
country, viz., the common Cafire-corn, said to resemble the 
Egyptian " doura," and another sort, very small grained, 
not unlike canary-seed, and akin, I believe, to the " badjera" 
of India. This is the more nutritious of the two, and, when 
well ground, produces excellent flour. 

The stalk of both these kinds of grain is stout — the thick- 
ness of a sugar-cane — some eight or nine feet high, and juicy 
and sweet to the taste, which has no doubt given rise to a be- 
lief in the existence of the sugar-cane in many of the interior 
parts of Africa. When the grain is ripe the ear is cut ofi^, and 
the remainder is left to the cattle, which devour it greedily. 

Besides grain, the Ovambo cultivate calabashes, water- 



LIVE IN PATRIARCHAL STYLE. 189 

melons, pumpkins, beans, peas, &c. They also plant tobacco. 
When ripe, the leaves and stalks are collected, and mashed 
together in a hollow piece of wood by means of a heavy 
pole. The tobacco is, however, of a very inferior quality ; 
so much so, that our Damaras, who had a mania for the 
weed, refused to smoke it. 

There are no towns or villages in Ovambo-land, but the 
people, like the patriarchs of old, live in separate families. 
Each homestead is situated in the middle of a corn-field, and 
surrounded by high and stout palisades. The natives were 
obliged to take this precaution in order to guard against the 
sudden attacks of a neighboring hostile tribe, which kept 
constantly harassing them. Once or twice the Ovambo at- 
tempted to retaliate, but without success. The tribe just 
mentioned is the only one with whom this naturally peace- 
able people are ever at variance. If not previously provoked 
they interfere with no one. 

We were anxious to form some sort of estimate of the 
density of the population, but this was no easy matter. 
However, by counting the houses in a certain extent of coun- 
try, and taking the average number of individuals to each, 
we came to the conclusion that there were about a hundred 
persons to every square mile. 

With the exception of a few cows and goats, no cattle 
were seen about the dwellings of the natives, yet we knew 
them to be possessed of vast herds. A general scarcity of 
water and pasturage in Ondonga compelled them to send the 
oxen away to distant parts. They also breed hogs, which, 
from their mischievous propensities, are always sent to a 
distance during the time of harvest. These animals, they 
assured us, attain to an enormous size. By all accounts, 
indeed, they must be perfect monsters. And there can be 
little doubt of the fact, for captains of vessels, who are ac- 
customed to trade with the natives of the West Coast, also 
speak of a gigantic race of swine. 



190 ANCIENT CUSTOM NANGORO. 

In the afternoon of the second day after leaving Chi- 
kor'onkombe's werft we came in sight of the residence of the 
redoubtable Nangoro. We were not, however, allowed to 
enter the royal inclosures, but a clump of trees was pointed 
out to us as our encamping place. 

AVhile arranging our baggage, &c., Chikor'onkombe pro- 
ceeded to inform his royal master of our arrival, and to state 
the quantity and quality of the intended presents. Before 
making his obeisance to his majesty, the Eastern custom of 
taking off the sandals was carefully attended to. On his re- 
turn he brought a man carrying some fire, with orders to ex- 
tinguish ours, and to relight it with that from the king's 
own hearth. 



CHAPTER XYI. 



Visit from Nangoro. — His extreme Obesity. — One must be fat to wear 
a Crown. — His non-appreciation of Eloquence. — Singular Effects 
of Fireworks on the Natives. — Cure for making a wry Face. — Ball 
at the Palace. — The Ladies very attractive and very loA'ing. — Their 
Dress, Ornaments, &c. — Honesty of the Ovambo. — Kindness to the 
Poor. — ^Love of Country. — Hospitality. — Delicate manner of Eat- 
ing. — Loose Morals. — ^Law of Succession. — Eeligion. — Houses. — 
Domestic Animals. — Implements of Husbandry. — Manner of Tilling 
the Ground. — Articles of Barter. — Metallurgy. 

We had been nearly three days at Nangoro' s capital be- 
fore its royal occupant honored our camp with his presence. 
This unaccountable delay gave us some uneasiness ; yet we 
could not but surmise that he had been longing to see us 
during the whole time. I believe it, however, to be a kind 
of rule with most native princes of note in this part of Af- 
rica, to keep strangers waiting in order to impress them with 
a due sense of dignity and importance. 

If obesity is to be considered as a sign of royalty, jSTangoro 
was " every inch a king." To our notions, however, he was 
the most ungainly and unwieldy figure we had ever seen. 



THE ROYAL VISIT. 1^91 

His walk resembled rather the waddling of a duck than the 
firm and easy gait which we are wont to associate with roy- 
alty. Moreover, he was in a state of almost absolute nudity, 
which showed him off to the greatest possible advantage. It 



INTERVIEW WITH KING NANGOKO. 



appeared strange to us that he should be the only really fat 
person in the whole of Ondonga. This peculiarity no doubt 
is attributable to the custom that prevails in other parts of 
Africa, viz., that of selecting for rulers such persons only 
who have a natural tendency to corpulence, or, more com- 
monly, fattening them for the dignity as we fatten pigs.* 

With the exception of a cow and an ox, Niuigoro appeared 
to appreciate few or none of the presents which Mr. Galton 
bestowed on him. And as for my friend's brilliant and en- 

* In speaking of the Matabili, Captain Harris says, "To be fat is 
the greatest of all crimes, no person being allowed that privilege but 
the king." Here, then, we have a new kind of Use-viajestc. Accord- 
ing to some of the African tribes, obesity in plebeians is high-treason I 



192 "too fat" EFFECT OF FIRE-ARMS CUNNING. 

ergetic orations, they had no more effect on the ear of royal- 
ty than if addressed to a stock or a stone. It was in vain 
that he represented to his majesty the advantages of a more 
immediate communication v^ith Europeans. Nangoro spoke 
little or nothing. He could not be eloquent because excess- 
ive fat had made him short-winded. Like Falstaff, his 
" voice was broken." Any attempt on his part to utter a 
sentence of decent length would have put an end to him, so 
he merely "grunted" whenever he desired to express either 
approbation or dissatisfaction. 

In common with his men, he was at first very incredulous 
as to the effect produced by fire-arms; but when he wit- 
nessed the depth that our steel- pointed conical balls pene- 
trated into the trunk of a sound tree, he soon changed his 
opinion, and evidently became favorably impressed with their 
efficacy. As for the men of his tribe who had not yet seen 
guns, and who had flocked to the camp to have a look at us, 
they became so alarmed that, at the instant of each discharge, 
they fell flat on their faces, and remained in their prostrate 
position for some little time afterward. A few very indiffer- 
ent fireworks which we displayed created nearly equal sur- 
prise and consternation. 

In another interview with Nangoro he requested us to 
shoot some elephants, which were said to abound at no great 
distance, and which, at times, committed great havoc among 
the corn-fields, trampling down what they did not consume. 
However much we might have relished the proposal under 
other circumstances, we now peremptorily refused to comply. 
We reasoned thus : " Supposing we were successful, Nangoro 
would not only bag all the ivory — an article he was known 
to covet and to sell largely to the Portuguese — but he would 
keep us in Ondonga till all the elephants were shot or scared 
away." Neither of these results suited our purpose. The 
cunning fellow soon had an opportunity of revenging himself 
on us for this disregard of his royal wish. 



BEER CURE FOR A WRY FACE BALL. 



193 



On paying our respects to his majesty one day, we were re- 
galed with a prodigious quantity of beer, brewed from grain, 
and served out of a monster calabash with spoons (made from 




' e^lili^J-i''^ii'*i^i'Ui^^VtMK S^ 



BEEB-CUP AND BEEE-BPOON. 



diminutive pumpkins), in nicely-worked wooden goblets. Be- 
ing unwell at the time, I was not in a state properly to ap- 
preciate the tempting beverage. Nangoro, however, who 
probably attributed the wry face that I made to the influence 
of the liquor, suddenly thrust his sceptre, which, by the way, 
was simply a pointed stick, with great force into the pit of 
my stomach. I was sitting cross-legged on the ground at 
the time, but the blow was so violent as to cause me to spring 
to my feet in an instant. Nangoro was evidently much 
pleased with his practical joke. As for myself, I sincerely 
wished him at the antipodes. However, for fear of offending 
royalty, I choked my rising anger, and reseated myself with 
the best grace I could, but I tried in vain to produce a smile. 
On another occasion we attended a ball at the royal res- 
idence. An entertainment of this kind was given every 
night soon after dark, but it was the most stupid and unin- 
teresting affair I ever witnessed. The musical instruments 
were the well-known African tom-tom and a kind of guitar. 




194 THE women: their dress and ornaments. 

We did not join in the dance, but amused ourselves with ad- 
miring the ladies. What with their charms, which were by 
no means inconsiderable, and the wonderful regard they 
evinced for us, these damsels all but ruined our peace of 
mind. 

The features of the Ovambo women, though coarse, are 
not unpleasing. When young they possess very good figures. 
As they grow older, however, the symmetry gradually dis- 
appears, and they become exceedingly stout and ungainly. 
One of the causes of this is probably to be found in the heavy 
copper ornaments with which they load their wrists and an- 
kles. Some of the ankle-rings must weigh as much as two 
or three pounds, and they have often a pair on each leg. 
Moreover, their necks, waists, and hips are almost hidden 
from view by a profusion of shells, cowries, and beads of ev- 
ery size and color, which sometimes are rather prettily ar- 
ranged* Another cause of their losing their good looks in 
comparatively early life is the constant and severe labor 
they are obliged to undergo. In this land of industry no 
one is allowed to be idle, and this is more especially the 
case with the females. Work begins at sunrise and ends at 
sunset. 

The hair of both men and women is short, crisp, and 
woolly. With the exception of the crown, which is always 
left untouched, the men often shave the head, which has the 
effect of magnifying the natural prominence of the hinder 
parts of it. The women, on the other hand, not satisfied 
with the gifts nature has bestowed upon them, resort, like 
the polished ladies of Europe, to artificial exaggerations. 
They besmear and stiffen the hair with cakes of grease and a 
vermilion-colored substance, which, from being constantly 
added to and pressed upon it, gives to the upper part of the 

* These ornaments, together with a narrow and soft piece of skin 
in front, and another behind of stout hide, constitute the dress of the 
Ovambo ladies. 



OVAMBO. 



195 




OVAMBO. 



196 HONESTY OF THE OVAMBO NO PAUPERISM. 

head a broad and flat look. The persons of the women are 
also profusely besmeared with grease and red ochre. 

Besides ear-rings of beads or shells, the men display but few 
ornaments. With regard to clothing, both sexes are far more 
scantily attired than the Damaras. When grown up, they 
chip the middle tooth in the under jaw. 

The Ovambo, ^o far as came under my own observation, 
were strictly honest. Indeed, they appeared to entertain 
great horror of theft, and said that a man detected in pil- 
fering would be brought to the king's residence and there 
speared to death. In various parts of the country a kind of 
magistrate is appointed, whose duty is to report all misde- 
meanors. Without permission, the natives would not even 
touch any thing, and we could leave our camp free from the 
least apprehension of being plundered. As a proof of their 
honesty, I may mention that, when we left the Ovambo 
country, the servants forgot some trifles, and such was the 
integrity of the people that messengers actually came after 
us a very considerable distance to restore the articles left be- 
hind. In Damara and Namaqua-land, on the contrary, a 
traveler is in constant danger of being robbed, and, when 
stopping at a place, it is always necessary to keep the strict- 
est watch on the movements of the inhabitants. 

But honesty was not the only good quality of this fine race 
of men. There was no pauperism in the country. Crippled 
and aged people, moreover, seemed to be carefully tended and 
nursed. Wliat a contrast to their neighbors, the Damaras, 
who, when a man becomes old, and no longer able to shift 
for himself, carry him into the desert or the forest, where he 
soon falls a prey to wild beasts, or is left to perish on his 
own hearth ! Nay, he is often knocked on the head, or oth- 
erwise put to death. 

The Ovambo are very national, and exceedingly proud of 
their native soil. They are offended when questioned as to 
the number of chiefs by whom they are ruled. "We ac- 



LOVE OF COUNTRY HOW THEY EAT. 197 

knowledge only one king. But a Damara," they would add, 
with a contemptuous smile, '' when possessed of a few cows, 
considers himself at once a chieftain." 

The people have also very strong local attachments. At 
an after period, while Mr. Galton was waiting at St. Helena 
for a ship to convey him to England, he was told "that 
slaves were not exported from south of Benguela because they 
never thrived when taken away, but became home-sick and 
died." This, no doubt, refers in part to the Ovambo. More- 
over, though people of every class and tribe are permitted to 
intermarry with them, they are, in such case, never allowed 
to leave the country. 

The Ovambo are decidedly hospitable. We often had the 
good fortune to partake of their liberality. Their staple food 
is a kind of coarse stir-about, which is always served hot, 
either with melted butter or sour milk. 

Being once on a shooting excursion, our guide took us to 
a friend's house, where we were regaled with the above fare. 
But, as no spoons accompanied it, we felt at a loss how to set 
to work. On seeing the dilemma we were in, our host quick- 
ly plunged his greasy fingers into the middle of the steaming 
mess, and brought out a handfull, which he dashed into the 
milk. Having stirred it quickly round with all his might, he 
next opened his spacious mouth, in which the agreeable mix- 
ture vanished as if by magic. He finally licked his fingers 
and smacked his lips with evident satisfaction, looking at us 
as much as to say, "That's the 
trick, my boys!" However un- 
pleasant this initiation might have 
appeared to us, it would have been 
ungrateful, if not offensive, to re- 
fuse ; therefore we commenced in MEAT-Dibn. 
earnest, according to example, emptying the dish, and occa- 
sionally burning our fingers, to the great amusement of our 
swarthy friends. . - 




198 LOOSE MORALS RULE OF SUCCESSION. 

Although generally very rich in cattle, and fond of animal 
diet, their beasts would seem to be kept rather for show than 
for food. When an ox is killed, the greater portion of the 
animal is disposed of by the owner to the neighbors, who 
give the produce of their ground in exchange. 

The morality of the Ovambo is very low, and polygamy 
is practiced to a great extent. A man may have as many 
wives as he can afford to keep ; but, as with the Damaras, 
there is always one who is the favorite and the highest in 
rank. Woman is looked upon as a mere commodity — an 
article of commerce. If the husband be poor, the price of a 
wife is two oxen and one cow ; but should his circumstances 
be tolerably flourishing, three oxen and two cows will be ex- 
pected. The chief, however, is an exception to this rule. 
In his case, the honor of an alliance with him is supposed to 
be a sufficient compensation. Our fat friend Nangoro had 
largely benefited by this privilege ; for, though certainly far 
behind the King of Dahomey in regard to the number of 
wives, yet his harem boasted of one hundred and six enchant- 
ing beauties ! 

In case of the death of the king, the son of his favorite 
wife succeeds him ; but if he has no male issue by this woman, 
her daughter then assumes the sovereignty. The Princess 
Chipanga was the intended successor to Nangoro. My friend 
thought that his bearded face had made an impression on 
this amiable lady ; but, though experience has since taught 
us that he was by no means averse to matrimony, he pre- 
ferred to settle his affections on one of his own fair country- 
women rather than marry the "greasy negress" Chipanga, 
heiress of On donga. 

We read of nations who are supposed to be destitute of 
any religious principles whatever. If we had placed reliance 
on what the natives themselves told us, we should have set 
down the Ovambo as one of such benighted races. But can 
there be so deplorable a condition of the human mind ? Does 



RELIGION ^A FUTURE STATE. 199 

not all nature forbid it ? Do not the sun, the moon, the stars, 
the solemn night, and cheerful dawn, announce a Creator 
even to the children of the wilderness ? Is it not proclaim- 
ed in the awful voice of thunder, and written on the sky by 

" the most terrible and nimble stroke 
Of quick, cross lightning?" 

Is it possible that any reasoning creature can be so degraded 
as not to have some notion, however faint and inadequate, 
of an Almighty Being ? Such a conception is necessarily in- 
cluded, more or less, in all forms of idolatry, even the most 
absurd and bestial. The indefinable apprehensions of a sav- 
age, and his dread of something which he can not describe, 
are testimonies that at least he suspects (however dimly and 
ignorantly) that the visible is not the whole. This may be 
the germ of religion — the first uncouth approaches of " faith" 
as the " evidence of things not seen" — the distant and im- 
perfectly-heard announcement of a God. 

May not our incorrect ideas on this head, in reference to 
the Ovambo, be attributed to want of time and insufficient 
knowledge of their language, habits, and shyness in reveal- 
ing such matters to strangers'? When interrogating our 
guide on the subject of religion, he would abruptly stop us 
with a " Hush !" Does not this ejaculation express awe and 
reverence, and a deep sense of his own utter insufficiency to 
enter on so solemn a theme ? The Ovambo always evinced 
much uneasiness whenever, in alluding to the state of man 
after death, we mentioned Nangoro. " If you speak in that 
manner," they said in a whisper, " and it should come to the 
hearing of the king, he will think that you may want to kill 
him." They, moreover, hinted that similar questions might 
materially hurt our interest, which was too direct a hint to be 
misunderstood. To speak of the death of a king or chief, or 
merely to allude to the heir-apparent, many savage nations 
consider equivalent to high treason. 

As already said, the Ovambo surround their dwellings 



200 



FOBM AND SIZE OF HOUSES. 




DWELLING-HOUSE ANT> C0BN-ST0EE8, 



with high palisades, consisting of stout poles about eight or 
nine feet in height, fixed firmly in the ground at short in- 
tervals from each other. The interior arrangements of these 
inclosures were most intricate. They comprised the dwell- 
ing-houses of masters and attendants, open spaces devoted to 
amusement and consultation, granaries, pig-sties, roosting- 
places for fowls, the cattle kraal, and so forth. 

Their houses are of a circular form. The lower part con- 
sists of slender poles, about two feet six inches high, driven 
into the ground, and farther secured by means of cord, &c., 
the whole being plastered over with clay. The roof, which 
is formed of rushes, is not unlike that of a bee-hive. The 
height of the whole house, from the ground to the top of the 
" hive," does not much exceed four feet, while in circumfer- 
ence it is about sixteen. 

They store the grain in gigantic baskets, generally manu- 
factured from palm-leaves, plastered with clay, and covered 



ANIMALS PICTURESQUE VIEW. 



201 



with nearly the same material and in the same manner as the 
dwelling-houses. They are, moreover, of every dimension, 
and by means of a frame-work of wood are raised about a 
foot from the ground. 

The domestic animals of the Ovambo are the ox, the 
sheep, the goat, the pig, the dog, and the barn-door fowl. 
The latter was of a small breed, a kind of bantam, very hand- 
some, and, if properly fed and housed, the hens would lay 
eggs daily. 

The wet season in these latitudes commences about the 
same period as in Damara-land, that is, in October and No- 
vember. When the first heavy rains are over, the Ovambo 
begin to sow grain, &c. ; but they plant tobacco in the dry 




VIEW IN ONDONGA/ 



* The above wood-cut is a view of the country near Nangoro's resi- 
dence. The huts in the distance are those of Bushmen. A great 
number of these people dwell among the Ovambo, to whom they stand 
in a kind of vassalage and relationship. 

I 2 



202 HUSBANDRY ^IVORY BEADS. 

time of the year. Both sexes assist in tilling the ground, 
which, near the surface, consists of a flinty sand-soil. A 
short distance beneath blue clay appears. The land must 
be rich and fertile, as manure is seldom made use of. The 
only farm-implement we saw in use among the Ovambo was 
a kind of hoe of very rude workmanship. Instead of culti- 
vating a whole piece of ground, as with us, they simply dig 
a hole here and there, in which they deposit a handfuU of corn. 
When a little above ground, those seedlings which are too 
thick are transplanted. The process of reaping, cleaning, 
and grinding falls almost exclusively on the women. The 
grain is reduced to flour by means of a stout pole in a kind 
of mortar or hollow wooden tube. While the females are 
thus employed, some of the men tend to the herding of the 
cattle, and the rest make trading excursions to the neigh- 
boring tribes. 

The chief article of export is ivory, which they procure 
from elephants caught in pitfalls. In exchange for this they 
obtain beads, iron, copper, shells, cowries, &c. ; and such ar- 
ticles as they do not consume themselves they sell to the 
Damaras. As far as we could learn, they make four expedi- 
tions annually into Damara-land, two by the way of Okama- 
buti, and two by that of Omaruru. The return for these sev- 
eral journeys, on an average, would seem to be about eight 
hundred head of cattle. Since we were in the country, how- 
ever, it is probable that great changes may have taken place. 

Next to their cattle they prize beads; but, though they 
never refuse whatever is offered to them, there are some sorts 
that they more especially value, and it is of very great im- 
portance to the traveler and the trader to be aware of this, 
as, in reality, beads constitute his only money or means of 
exchange. Thus, throughout Ondonga, large red (oval or 
cylindrically-shaped), large bluish white, small dark indigo, 
small black (spotted with red), and red, in general, are more 
particularly in request. 



METALLURGY. 



203 



The Ovambo have some slight knowledge of metallurgy. 
Though no mineral is indigenous to their own country, they 
procure copper and iron ore in abundance from their neigh- 
bors, which they smelt in fire-proof crucibles. The bellows 
employed in heating the iron are very indifferent, and stones 
serve as substitutes for hammer and anvil. Yet, rude as 
these implements are, they manage not only to manufacture 
their own ornaments and farming tools, but almost all the 
iron-ware used in barter. 



' — ^ ^C^i^ 




BLAOKSMITUS AT WORK. 



204 THE RIVER CUNENE. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

The River Cunene. — The Travelers are Prisoners at large. — Kinglj 
Revenge. — Kingly Liberality. — Depart from Ondonga. — Sufferings 
and Consequences resulting from Cold. — Return to Okamabuti, — 
Damara Women murdered by Bushmen. — Preparations for Jour- 
ney. — Obtain Guides. — Depart from Tjopopa's Werft. — Game abun- 
dant. — Author and three Lions stalk Antelopes in Company. — Ex- 
traordinary Visitation. — The Rhinoceros's Guardian Angel. — The 
Textor Erythrorhynchus. — The Amadina Squamifrons ; singular 
Construction of its Nest. — Return to Baraien. 

Many years previously to our visit to the Ovambo, a 
French frigate discovered the embouchure of a magnificent 
river known as Cunene, between the seventeenth and eight- 
eenth degrees of south latitude. Other vessels were sent out 
to explore it, and to ascertain its course, &c., but, strange to 
say, they searched for it in vain !* 

The discoverers could not, however, have been mistaken ; 
and as we now approached the latitudes in question, we 
made inquiries, and soon found that only four days' travel 
north of Ondonga there existed a river of great size, which 
we doubted not was identical with Cunene ; and farther in- 
quiry fully corroborated this supposition. A runaway slave 
from Benguela, who was living at the time among the Ovam- 
bo, informed us that in its upper course (or rather another 
branch) this river is called Mukuru Mukovanja, but that in 
its lower course it is designated Cunene. Moreover, that, 
though of very considerable size, and containing a large vol- 
ume of water, it does not always find its way directly into 
the sea. He declared the cause of this to be the formation 

* Captain Messum, master of a merchant vessel, subsequently in- 
foraicd me tliat he has seen it. 



THE RIVER CUNENE PRISONERS AT LARGE. 205 

of sand-banks at its mouth, which compels it to take a sub- 
terraneous course. Occasionally, however, it breaks through 
these barriers. This was exceedingly interesting, inasmuch 
as it explained the cause of its mysterious disappearance. 

The Ovambo themselves gave us to understand that they 
often extended their trading excursions to the Cunene, and 
even crossed it by means of canoes. The people dwelling on 
its south bank were called Ovapangari (a few of whom we 
saw in Ondonga) and Ovabundya. The latter were repre- 
sented as living among " many waters," which we conjec- 
tured meant the confluence of some of the branches. 

Our curiosity to see the Cunene was greatly aroused, 
though, in order to accomplish this object, it would be neces- 
sary to overcome many difficulties. Pleasant as our arrival 
and stay at Ondonga had generally been, it was in some re- 
spects attended with much inconvenience. The freedom we 
had enjoyed to such perfection among the Damaras ceased 
with our entrance into Ovambo-land. We could hardly stir 
half a mile from our camp without having first obtained the 
permission of our despotic friend, and much less could we 
think of returning or proceeding. We had left half our par- 
ty behind us in a savage and inhospitable country without a 
sufficiency of provisions. Our own stores were very deficient 
in animal food. No pasturage was left in Ondonga but corn- 
stubble, or rather corn-stalks ; and of this, as well as of wa- 
ter, the inhabitants were extremely tenacious. The conse- 
quence was that the poor cattle daily fell off in condition. 
We were already two long weeks' journey distant from our 
camp at Okamabuti, and to undertake an excursion to the 
Cunene, and return, would occupy fully another fortnight, 
making thus, at the very least, a whole month's actual trav- 
el. This, we feared, was more than our emaciated cattle 
were equal to. Yet, notwithstanding all these formidable 
difficulties, the enterprise was of such great importance that 
we determined not to give it up without a struggle. Unless 



206 KOYAL REVENGE DEPART FROM ONDONGA. 

we could obtain the consent and assistance of Nangoro, we 
were aware that all our efforts would be unavailing. Ac- 
cordingly, we informed him of our plans, with a request that 
he would provide us with guides. But he sulkily replied 
that, as we did not choose to kill elephants for him, he could 
not oblige us in this matter ! Under any circumstances such 
ungenerous conduct would have been highly vexatious ; but, 
in our situation, we could only submit, and hope it was all 
for the best, and that which his majesty intended an act of 
revenge might in the end be the means of saving ourselves. 

Thus frustrated in our plans, and having seen and ascer- 
tained every thing we could in the country, we at once de- 
termined to retrace our steps. However, after what had just 
fallen from the lips of the chief, it was not without some mis- 
givings that we waited to know his wishes and intentions 
with regard to our departure. But there was no cause for 
anxiety. Having squeezed every thing out of us that would 
have been of any use to him, he was evidently but too well 
pleased to see us leave his territory, which would relieve him 
from the necessity of making us any presents. During our 
stay in Ondonga, all that this royal miser gave us was a 
small basket of flour ; though, on our finally leaving his do- 
minion, he ordered one of his "bread-eaters," who accom- 
panied us as guide to the frontier, to levy a tribute of corn 
on his subjects for our behoof; but this largess, at the ex- 
pense of others, came too late, as we had already laid in a 
sufficient stock of the staff of life, which we had obtained 
from the natives by barter. 

The 13th of June was fixed for our departure. We were 
not, however, able to get away till two days later. On the 
18th we were fairly out of sight of the fertile plains of On- 
donga. Nangoro had originally promised to send our old 
friend Chikor'onkombe back with us ; but the fellow abrupt- 
ly and treacherously deserted us. This proved of great in- 
convenience; and it was only by exerting all our ingenuity 



DEPART FROM ONDONGA ARRIVAL AT OKAMABUTI. 207 

that we ultimately succeeded in finding our way home. As 
has been already said, there were no landmarks by which 
we could steer. 

The nights had now become bitterly cold. In crossing the 
Otjihako-tja-Muteya we were obliged to bivouac on this 
bleak and exposed plain without a particle of fuel. What 
with the piercing wind and low temperature, it was one of 
the most trying nights I remember to have spent in Africa. 
Indeed, I hardly ever felt the cold more during the most se- 
vere Scandinavian winter. Even the cattle were so exceed- 
ingly distressed that several of our best draft-oxen never 
thoroughly recovered. Our poor Damaras suffered fearful- 
ly ; and it was only by huddling themselves together at the 
bottom of a dried-up well that they were enabled to keep the 
least warmth in their bodies. Timbo, however, appeared to 
be the greatest sufferer. One morning we were amazed at 
finding his dark, shiny skin suddenly changed into a pale 
ashy gray. 

Owing to the scarcity of water at this time of the year, 
game was rare. Indeed, we only met with animals, such as 
the giraffe, the koodoo, the gemsbok, the eland, &c., that ei- 
ther wholly or in great part can do without water. 

On the 1st of July, after about a fortnight's steady travel, 
we reached our encampment in safety. The two hundred 
miles of country we had crossed presented, perhaps, as dreary 
and uninteresting a prospect as can well be imagined. 

In our absence, Tjopopa, with his people, left Okamabuti, 
and removed a few miles farther to the westward. Our men 
followed his example. On approaching the camp, we espied 
Hans perched in the top of a tree anxiously looking out for 
our return. The whole party was almost wild with delight 
at seeing us safe back, of which they began to despair. They 
had passed a most dreary time. The natives, though friend- 
ly, teased and annoyed them excessively with begging and 
even pilfering, the chief, as not unfrequently happens, hav- 



208 GAME SCARCE BUSHMEN GUIDES. 

ing been the most importunate of the whole lot. Moreover, 
he had not paid his debt, nor would he sell Hans any more 
cattle ; and, as there was then very little game in the neigh- 
borhood, they were so pressed for food that Hans was obliged 
to reduce the men's allowances very considerably. Our Da- 
mara servants lived for some time solely on such birds and 
small animals as they could kill by means of the dogs. For- 
tunately, Hans possessed some tobacco; and, while the na- 
tives refused every thing else, he was able to obtain a few 
sheep for this article, which proved a most opportune supply. 

Not many days previous to our arrival eight Damara wom- 
en had been surprised by the Bushmen and unmercifully put 
to death. This, however, was not to be wondered at, for the 
Damaras themselves are always waging an exterminating 
war on the Bushmen. Indeed, they hunt them down, wher- 
ever met with, like wild beasts. 

Hans had succeeded in repairing the wagon most satis- 
factorily ; and the oxen, though rather lean, were in tolera- 
bly good working order. We now determined to turn our 
faces homeward without a moment's delay. A very few 
days were sufficient to enable us to complete the final prepa- 
rations. 

By this time all the pools of rain-water which had be- 
friended us on our journey northward were dried up, and it 
would therefore have been impossible to retrace our steps 
by the same route. The Damaras strongly advised us to 
strike the Omuramba-k'Omatako at a certain point, and 
by following its course they assured us we should find water 
and pasturage in abundance. One man, in particular, who 
had always shown himself civil and obliging, ofiered to act 
as guide the first part of the way ; for the remainder we 
secured the services of a lad professing to be well acquainted 
with the country. Having on so many occasions been de- 
ceived by the natives, we did not much relish the idea of 
again trusting ourselves to their guidance. However, there 



DEPART FROM TJOPOPA's WERFT. 209 

was no alternative ; and in this instance, to do justice to the 
men, I must say they not only spoke the truth, but perform- 
ed their services most satisfactorily. 

Without bidding farewell to Tjopopa, who throughout had 
treated us inhospitably, we yoked our oxen on the 5th of 
July, and after about three days' travel arrived in the Omu- 
ramba. At this point the river (or rather the river-bed) ap- 
peared to cease altogether ; but the natives declared that it 
continued to flow toward the Ovatjona or Matjo'na. I have 
since ascertained that they alluded to the Bechuana country. 
Hence we traveled steadily up toward its source. Its bed, 
which sometimes spread out into a flat, and at others formed 
a narrow channel, afforded us always a good and open road. 
The country on both sides was hemmed in by an apparently 
endless thorn coppice. We usually found water daily, at first 
in pools, but afterward exclusively in wells, varying in depth 
from a few feet to as much as forty. These were generally 
choked up with sand, and it often occupied us half a day to 
clean them out. I remember, on one occasion, working hard, 
with a party consisting of about thirty men and women, 
during upward of twenty hours, before we could obtain a 
sufficiency of water. It was cold work ; for about sunrise 
the ice was often half an inch thick, and we had no water- 
proof boots to protect our feet. 

Game now became abundant. We managed to kill suffi- 
cient for the table without being obliged to have recourse to 
our few remaining live-stock. I saw here for the first time 
that magnificent antelope, the eland. 

Beasts of prey were likewise numerous. Indeed, they 
always follow the larger game. During the nights we were 
constantly annoyed by the dismal bowlings of the hyasnas ; 
and we had some very exciting foot-chases after these animals. 

While out hunting early one morning I espied a small 
troop of gnoos quietly grazing at a bend of the river. Cau- 
tiously approaching them under shelter of the intervening" 



210 STALKING GNOOS IN COMPANY WITH LIONS. 

ground, they suddenly tossed their heads, switched their tails, 
scraped the earth impatiently with their hoofs, and sniffed the 
air. I was puzzled how to account for this unusual agita- 
tion, as, from my position, I was certain they could not have 
discovered me. But I had not much time for conjecture, for 
the next instant I was startled by the growl of some animal 
close to me. On looking in the direction whence it proceed- 
ed, I discovered, to my utter astonishment, two lions and a 
lioness on the rising ground just above me, and, as it seem- 
ed, they also were on the look-out for the gnoos.* I instinct- 
ively leveled my piece at the head of the nearest of the beasts ; 
but a moment's reflection convinced me that the odds were 
too great, and I therefore thought it best to reserve my fire, 
so as to be in readiness to receive them should they charge. 
After having regarded me for a few seconds, however, they 
growlingly disappeared behind a sand-hill. 

By this time the gnoos had become aware of the lions, 
and were making off at the top of their speed. Being anx- 
ious to obtain a shot at them, I followed on their tracks, but 
soon found, to my dismay, that my three royal friends, with 
jaws distended and uttering furious growls, were followino- a 
course parallel to mine. Though I must confess I did not 
at all like their looks, as only excessive hunger could have 
induced them, in broad day, to seek for victims, I neverthe- 
less continued to follow the tracks of the antelopes until they 
led me into the bush, where I presently lost them as well as 
myself. 

On first seeing the gnoos, I left my henchman " Bill," a 
Damara lad, who carried my spare gun, at some distance 
behind, with directions to follow on my track according to 
circumstances. Now that the gnoos were lost to me, I shout- 
ed loudly to the youth, and also discharged my gun more than 

* The plate facing the page represents two lions observing me, while 
the lioness, not yet aware of my presence, is still eagerly pushing on 
toward the intended victims. 



UNWELCOME HUNTING COMPANIONS. 



211 



'V/W-Mtf iJSi'hi I'li' 



O 

w 

d 

H 
t— I 

O 
!^ 

M 

o 

CO 




212 EXTRAORDINARY VISITATION. 

. once, but was unable to elicit a reply. Thinking, however 
that he might have returned to our encampment (which was 
at no great distance), I also repaired there. But " Bill" had 
not been heard of. The harassing suspicion at once crossed 
my mind that the lions had eaten him. Without a moment's 
delay, I hurried back to the spot where I had last seen the 
beasts, but all my endeavors to find the poor fellow were 
unavailing. What with anxiety on his account, and my ex- 
ertions under a broiling sun (for if the weather was frosty 
at night, it calcined one by day), I was unable to proceed 
farther, and sat myself down on the ground to wait for the 
arrival of the wagons, which were now moving forward. 
Just at this moment, the Damara, to my inexpressible de- 
light, emerged from the bush. His story was soon told. 
He had, like myself, lost his way, and it was long before he 
was able to recover the right track. 

One morning, as we were about to yoke the oxen, we were 
amused to see them suddenly start off in every direction in 
the wildest confusion, and cutting the most ridiculous capers. 
The cause of this commotion was the arrival of a large flock 
of the huphaga Africana, which alighted on the backs of the 
cattle for the purpose of feeding on the ticks with which their 
hides are covered. By means of their long claws and elastic 
tails, these birds are enabled to cling to and search every part 
of the beast. It was evident, however, that our oxen had 
never experienced a similar visitation ; no wonder, there- 
fore, that they were taken somewhat aback at being thus 
unceremoniously assailed. 

The huphaga Africana is also a frequent companion of the 
rhinoceros, to which, besides being of service in ridding him 
of many of the insects that infest his hide, it performs the 
important part of sentinel. On many occasions has this 
watchful bird prevented me from getting a shot at that beast. 
The moment it suspects danger, it flies almost perpendicu- 
larly up into the air, uttering sharp, shrill notes, that nev- 



birds' nests used foe wadding. 213 

er fail to attract the attention of the rhinoceros, who, with- 
out waiting to ascertain the cause, almost instantly seeks 
safety in a precipitate flight. According to Mr. Gumming, 
these birds also attend upon the hippopotamus. 

Another bird (textor erythrorhynchus) is also in the habit 
of feeding upon parasitical insects, but is said to restrict its 
visits to the buffalo. In the part of Damara-land of which I 
am now speaking, that animal is unknown, yet the bird was 
in very great numbers. It appeared to be very social in its 
habits, living in colonies, and building its nest, which consists 
of dry sticks, on lofty trees. 

We also made acquaintance with a small, sparrow-looking 
bird, the amadina squamifrons, which deserves notice on ac- 
count of its peculiar and interesting nest. According to Dr. 
Andrew Smith, this is placed on a small shrub, and is con- 
structed of grass. But in Damara-land and parts adjacent, 
the materials are of a beautifully soft texture, not unlike 
sheep's wool. I never could discover the plant from which 
it was procured. The Hottentots use it as a substitute for 
gun-wadding, and it is by no means a bad makeshift. The 
nest is so strongly put together that one has difficulty in 
separating it. When the old bird absents itself, it effectually 
conceals the opening of the nest from view. Even long after 
I was acquainted with this peculiarity, I was puzzled to find 
it out. Just above the entrance is a small hollow, which has 
no communication with the interior of the nest, but which, 
by the uninitiated, is often mistaken for it. In this tube the 
male bird sits at night. 

We occasionally fell in with Damara villages. In our 
journey northward the natives had shown themselves ex- 
cessively timid and suspicious, but now that they had so 
many evidences of our peaceful intentions, they approached 
our camp without the least reserve or hesitation; but we 
could not induce them to part with any cattle, of which we 
stood much in need. 



214 RETURN TO BARMEN THE DAMARAS. 

Gn the 26th of July we came in sight of Omatako, and 
many other well known hills. On the 3d of August we 
found ourselves at Schmelen's Hope ; but how dilFerent an 
aspect did it present to that which lived in our memory ! 
When we left it about three months previously, the country 
was covered with the most luxuriant vegetation. Since 
then, the Damaras had been encamping there with their cat- 
tle, and we were now unable to obtain sufficient pasturage 
for our animals. The water, moreover, was all but exhausted. 

On the following day, the 4th of August, we continued 
our journey to Barmen, where we arrived on the afternoon 
of the same day safe and well. 

Thus ended an expedition which, although it might not 
have been so successful as we had anticipated, was not with- 
out its fruits. 



CHAPTER XVin. 



The Damaras. — Whence they came. — Their Conquests. — The Tide 
tm*ns. — Damara-land only partially inhabited. — Climate. — Sea- 
sons. — Mythology. — Religion. — Superstitions. — Marriage. — Poly- 
gamy. — Children. — Circumcision. — Bury their Dead. — Way they 
mourn. — Children interred alive. — Burial of the Chief, and Super- 
stitions consequent thereon. — Maladies. — Damaras do not live long; 
the Cause thereof. — Food. — Music and Dancing. — How they swear. 
— Power of the Chieftain limited. — Slothful People. — Numerals. — 
Astronomy. — Domestic Animals ; their Diseases. 

Frequent opportunities had by this time been afforded me 
of observing and studying the physical features of the coun- 
try, the character of the natives, and their religious rites and 
customs. Having previously said but little on these sub- 
jects, I propose now to give some account of them. Though, 
from the lying habits of the Damaras, great difficulty has 
arisen in arriving at the truth, I believe that my statements 
will not be very wide of the mark. Besides the concurrent 



OEIGIN OF THE DAMAKAS. 215 

testimony of many of the natives, I have had the satisfaction, 
on comparing my notes with those of the missionaries, to 
find them agree in the main ; and as it has been my fate to 
witness the complete ruin and downfall of the Damaras — 
who, probably, before another century has passed away will 
be forgotten — I think that a connected and somewhat detail- 
ed description of their history may not be unacceptable to 
the general reader. 

That the Damaras have not resided for any length of time 
in the country which they now occupy is quite certain, 
though whence they came is doubtful. Some of these peo- 
ple point to the north as their original home ; others con- 
jecture that they migrated from the northeast.* Be this as 
it may, it would appear quite certain that about seventy years 
ago not a Damara was to be found south of the Kaoko, but 
that, at some time within this period, they invaded the coun- 
try, then inhabited by Bushmen and Hill-Damaras, the last 
being in all probability the aborigines. Not having a war- 
like disposition, the Hill-Damaras were easily subdued, and 
those who were not killed were made captives. The few 
that escaped took refuge among the mountains, or other in- 
hospitable and inaccessible regions, where they are still found 
dragging on a most miserable and degraded existence. 

The Damaras were once, undoubtedly, a great nation ; 
but, unlike others which gradually become powerful by the 
union of a number of smaller tribes under the head of a sin- 
gle chief or king, they have dwindled into an endless number 
of petty tribes, ruled by as many chiefs. 

* In my journey to the Lake Ngami at an after period, I observed 
whole forests of a species of tree called Omumborombonga, the sup- 
posed progenitor of the Damaras. This fact, coupled with our knowl- 
edge that all the tribes to the north are more or less conversant with 
agriculture, of which the Damaras know nothing (having no word in 
their language for cereal food), and that many of the nations to the 
east are partly pastoral, would seem to indicate a northeast or east 
direction as their original home. 



216 ' THE NAM AQUA-HOTTENTOTS. 

After their conquest of the country, the Damaras con- 
tinued to extend themselves, without much opposition, to the 
east nearly as far as Lake Ngami, and to about the twenty- 
fourth degree of latitude on the south. At both these points, 
however, they were checked in their onward career. At 
first they were attacked by the Matjo'nas, with whom, from 
time to time, they had several desperate conflicts ; and though 
they appear to have fought well, they were ultimately obliged 
to retreat with considerable loss. But it was from the Na- 
maqua-Hottentots that thay were destined to experience the 
greatest reverse, by whom, as will by-and-by be shown, they 
were finally destroyed or broken up. 

About the period of the conquest alluded to a small tribe 
of Namaqua-Hottentots had pitched their tents on the banks 
of the Orange River, under the rule of Jonker Afrikaner,* 
who was then a chief of only secondary importance ; yet, as 
his people were possessed of horses and fire-arms, he soon 
became formidable to his enemies. The territory lying be- 
tween him and the Damaras was occupied by various tribes 
of Namaquas, who, on finding themselves hard pressed by the 
Damaras sent to Jonker to demand his assistance. This he 
granted ; and, like another Caesar, " came, saw, and con- 
quered." Indeed, that day sealed the fate of Damara-land. 
The Namaquas, at first the oppressed, became in their turn 

* His father, Christian Afrikaner, once lived within the present 
boundary of the Cape Colony ; but his brother having killed a Dutch 
farmer, from whom the tribe is said to have suffered much wTong, he 
and his kindred were obliged to fly the country. He then settled on 
the banks of the Garib or Orange River, where he soon became famous 
for his daring and ferocious exploits against his neighbors. In this 
state of things he was found by the Rev. Mr. Moffat, well known for 
his missionary labors in Southern Africa, who, after having experi- 
enced much opposition, finally succeeded in converting him to Chris- 
tianity. At his death the present Jonker Afrikaner^ though an elder 
brother was still living, assumed the chieftainship, Avhich occasioned a 
division in the tribe, and was, moreover, the original cause of their 
migration northward. 



1 



CLIMATE SEASONS WHIRLWINDS. 217 

the oppressors. In proportion as they grew powerful and 
successful, the prospect of booty, which the vast herds of 
sleek cattle so amply afforded them, was the sole object of 
their inroads upon the Daraaras. They appeared to have 
adopted the motto of the old sea-kings, 

"That they should take who have the power, 
And they should keep who can." 

From my first arrival in the country to the time I left it 
— a period of less than four years — the Namaquas had de- 
prived the Damaras of fully one half of their cattle, the other 
portion having already been taken from them previously to 
my visit. With the loss of their property followed that of 
their independence. 

Although a large tract of country is marked on the maps 
as Damara-land, a small portion only is inhabitable. This 
may also be affirmed of Namaqua-land ; and in both cases 
the disparity arises either from scarcity of water or the fre- 
quency of inextricable jungles of thorn-wood. 

Damara-land being situated in the tropic of Capricorn, 
the seasons are naturally the reverse of those in Europe. 
In the month of August, when our summer may be said to 
be at an end, hot westerly winds begin to blow, which quickly 
parch up and destroy the vegetation. At the same time, 
whirlwinds sweep over the country with tremendous veloc- 
ity, driving along vast columns of sand many feet in diame- 
ter and several hundred in height. At times ten or fifteen 
of these columns may be seen chasing each other. The 
Damaras designate them Orukumb'ombura, or rain-beggars, 
a most appropriate name, as they usually occur just before 
the first rains fall. 

Showers, accompanied by thunder and vivid lightning, are 
not unusual in the months of September and October, but 
the regular rajns do not set in till December and January, 
when they continue with but slight intermission till May. 
In this month and June strong easterly winds prevail, which 



218 MYTHOLOGY. 

are not only disagreeable, but injurious to health. The lips 
crack, and the skin feels dry and harsh. Occasionally, at 
this time, tropical rains fall, but they do more harm than 
good, as a sudden cold which annihilates vegetation is inva- 
riably the result. In July and August the nights are the 
coldest, and it is then no unusual thing to find ice half an 
inch thick. Snow is of rare occurrence. 

The Damaras and the Bechuanas have nearly the same 
notion as to their origin. Thus the latter believe that the 
founders of their nation and the^ animals of the country 
emerged from a cave, while the former declare that they 
sprung from a tree. When men and beasts first burst from 
the parent tree — so runs the tradition — all was enveloped in 
profound darkness. A Damara then lit a fire, which so fright- 
ened the zebra, the giraffe, the gnoo, and every other beast 
now found wild in the country, that they all fled from the 
presence of man, while the domestic animals, such as the ox, 
the sheep,* and the dog, collected fearlessly round the blaz- 
ing brands. 

The tree from which the Damaras are descended is to be 
seen, they say, at a place called Omaruru. But somehow 
there must be more than one parent tree, for both in going 
and coming we met with several Omumborombongas, all of 
which the natives treated with filial affection.! 

The chief deity of the Damaras is called Omukuru. His 
abode is said to be in the far north ; but it would be some- 
what difficult to specify his attributes. Each tribe is sup- 
posed to have its own Omukuru, to whom it ascribes all its 
superstitious habits and customs, peculiarities, &c. The tribe 
is divided into castes or "eandas." Thus there are Ovakue- 
yuba, those of the sun, or related to the sun, and Ovakue- 
nombura, those related to the rain, &c., each of which has 

* Some Damaras attribute the origin of the sheep to a large stone. 
t The grain of this tree is so very close, and the wood so exceed- 
ingly weighty, that we gave it the name of the " iron tree." 



RELIGION WITCHCRAFT SUPERSTITIONS. 219 

its peculiar rites and superstitions. These, moreover, are 
derived from the mother, and not from the father. If a man 
of the Ovakueyuba marries a vi^oman of the Ovakuenombura, 
their offspring adopt the notions, &c., peculiar to the latter, 
and vice-versa. They can not account for this division of 
castes; they merely say it is derived from the "wind." 
Some religious notions, no doubt, lie at the bottom of this. 

Though the Damaras do not profess absolutely to believe 
in a life hereafter, they have a confused notion of a future 
state. Thus they not unfrequently bring provisions to the 
grave of a deceased friend or relation, requesting him to eat 
and make merry. In return, they invoke his blessing, and 
pray for success against their enemies, an abundance of cattle, 
numerous wives, and prosperity in their undertakings. 

The spirits of deceased persons are believed to appear after 
death, but are then seldom seen in their natural form. They 
usually assume on such occasions the shape of a dog, having, 
not unfrequently, the foot of an ostrich. Any individual 
to whom such an apparition (Otjruru) might appear, es- 
pecially if it should follow and accost him, is supposed to die 
soon after. 

The Damaras have great faith in witchcraft. Individuals 
versed in the black art are called Omundu-Onganga, or 
Omundu-Ondyai, and are much sought after. Any person 
falling sick is immediately attended by one of these impostors, 
whose panacea is to besmear the mouth and the forehead of 
the patient with the ordure of the hyaena, which is supposed 
to possess particularly healing virtues. The sorcerer, more- 
over, makes signs and conjurations. 

Some very singular superstitions about meat exist among 
the Damaras. Thus a man will perhaps not eat the flesh of 
an ox which may happen to be marked with black, white, or 
red spots. Others refuse to partake of a sheep should it 
have no horns ; while some would not touch the meat of 
draft-oxen, according to the rule of the " eanda" to which 



220 SUPERSTITION. 

he belongs. If meat is offered a Damara, he will accept it ; 
but, before he ventures to eat it, he carefully inquires about 
the color of the animal, whether it had horns, &c. ; and 
should it prove forbidden food, he will in all probability 
leave it untouched, even though he might be dying of hunger. 
Some even carry their scruples so far as to avoid coming in 
contact with vessels in which such food has been cooked; 
nay, even the smoke of the fire by which it is prepared is 
considered injurious. Hence the religious superstitions of 
these people often expose them to no small amount of incon- 
venience and suffering. 

The fat of particular animals is supposed to possess certain 
virtues, and is carefully collected and kept in vessels of a 
peculiar kind. A small portion of this is given in solution, 
with water, to persons who return safely to their homes after 
a lengthened absence at the cattle-posts. The chief also 
makes use of it as an unguent for his body. 

When an ox accidentally dies at a chiefs werft, his daugh- 
ter (the offspring, probably, of his favorite or chief wife) ties 
a double knot on her leather apron. Should this be neglected, 
a " curse" is believed to be the consequence. She also places 
a piece of wood on the back of the dead animal, praying at 
the same time for long life, plenty of cattle, &c. This wom- 
an is called Ondangere, and is to the Damaras what the 
vestal was among the ancient Romans ; for, besides attending 
to the sacrifices, it is her duty to keep up the "holy fire" 
(Omurangere). 

Outside the chief's hut, where he is accustomed to sit in 
the daytime, a fire is always kept burning ; but, in case of 
rain or bad weather, it is transferred to the hut of the priest- 
ess, who, should it be deemed advisable to change the site of 
the village, precedes the oxen with a portion of this conse- 
crated fire, every possible care being taken to prevent it from 
being extinguished. Should, however, this calamity happen, 
the whole tribe is immediately assembled, and large expiatory 



SUPERSTITION. 221 

offerings of cattle are made, after which the fire is relit in 
the primitive way, namely, by friction. This again reminds 
us of the " holy fire" of the Romans, which, under similar cir- 
cumstances, could only be relit by fire from heaven. 

A portion of such fire is also given to the head man of a 
kraal when about to remove from that of the chief. The 
duties of a vestal then devolve on the daughter of the emi- 
grant. 

For every wild animal that a young man destroys, his fa- 
ther makes four small oblong incisions on the front of the 
son's body as marks of honor and distinction. He is, more- 
over, presented with a sheep or cow. If either of these should 
produce young ones, they are slaughtered and eaten, but only 
males are allowed to partake of such food. 

The chief of a kraal must always taste the provisions be- 
fore they can be eaten by the rest of the tribe. Though 
sweet milk, when boiled, may be freely drunk by the women 
and children, it is more commonly swallowed in an acid 
state. 

Should a sportsman return from a successful hunt, he takes 
water in his mouth, and ejects it three times over his feet, as 
also in the fire of his own hearth. 

When cattle are required merely for food, they are suffo- 
cated ; but if for sacrifices, they are speared to death. On 
the decease of one of the tribe, they have also the cruel prac- 
tice of destroying the poor beasts with clubs, which I believe 
to be a kind of expiatory offering. The flesh of such cattle 
as are killed on the death of a chief is principally consumed 
by his servants. 

The women marry at very much the same age as those in 
Europe, but few ceremonies are connected with this import- 
ant affair. A girl is sometimes betrothed to a man when 
yet a child, though, under such circumstances, she remains 
with her parents till of proper age. The woman, upon be- 
ing asked in marriage, puts on a helmet-shaped head-dress, 



222 POLYGAMY SINGULAR CUSTOMS. 

kept in readiness for such occasions, and for a certain time 
hides her face by means of a piece of thin, soft skin attached 
to the front of the " casque," which she can raise or let fall 
in much the same manner as a curtain. 

Polygamy is practiced to a great extent, and, as has been 
said elsewhere, women are bargained for like merchandise, 
the price varying according to the circumstances of the hus- 
band. Yet, though a man may have as many wives as he 
likes, I never knew one to have more than twenty ! — a pretty 
good supply, however, it must be admitted. 

The favorite wife always takes precedence of the rest, and, 
if she should have a son, he succeeds to his father's posses- 
sions and authority. 

Each wife builds for herself a hut of a semicircular form, 
the walls of which consist of boughs, sticks, &c., the whole 
being plastered over. 

Twins are not uncommon with the Damaras, Children are, 
generally speaking, easily reared. During infancy, sheep's 
milk constitutes their chief diet. Their heads are more or 
less deprived of hair ; the boys are shaved, but the crown of 
the head of the girls is left untouched. Even grown-up fe- 
males follow this custom. To the hair thus left they attach 
— not very unlike the Ovambo — thin strings, made from 
some fibrous substance. 

All males are circumcised, but no particular period of life 
is prescribed for this operation, which usually takes place 
when any event of national interest occurs. 

Children are named after great public incidents ; but, as 
they grow up, should any circumstance arise of still greater 
importance to the community, they are renamed, retaining, 
however, the original appellation ; and, since there may be 
no limit to remarkable transactions, it follows that an indi- 
vidual may have more names than any Spanish hidalgo can 
boast. 

Between the age of fifteen and twenty, both sexes chip a 



BURYING THE DEAD. 223 

wedge-shaped piece of the two centre teeth in the upper jaw, 
and at a later period they extract entirely from the lower 
two or three teeth. The first operation is usually performed 
by means of a piece of iron, a flint, or simply a stone. 

The Damaras bury their dead. Immediately after disso- 
lution, the back bone of the corpse is broken with a stone,* 
and it is then bent together with the chin resting on the 
knees. Afterward it is wrapped in ox-hides, and deposited 
in a hole in the ground dug for the purpose, care being taken 
to place the face toward the north. This is done, they say, 
to remind them (the natives) whence they originally came. 
The Bechuana mode of disposing of the dead is very similar. 

Upon the death of one of the tribe, the whole population 
of the place assemble to deplore the event. The bowlings 
and lamentations on such occasions are most discordant and 
dreadful. Tears are considered favorable signs, and the more 
plentifully they fall on the corpse the better. Two months 
is the usual period for a son to mourn his father, but the 
time is modified according to circumstances. The wealthier 
the deceased, the greater the outward signs of sorrow — a 
kind of feeling which, at any rate, bears some approximation 
to that of civilized life. During the season of mourning, the 
mourner wears a dark-colored skin cap, conically shaped on 
the top, with certain ornaments afiixed to it. Round the 
neck is suspended a "riem," to the two extremities of which 
is attached a small piece of ostrich egg-shell. In case of 
the death of a valued friend, the adults will occasionally 
shave the head completely, and keep it in that state for years. 

When a woman in reduced circumstances dies and leaves 
a child, it is not unfrequently buried alive with its mother. 
Mr. Eath was once fortunate enough, to be the means of 

* I am told that this is not unfrequently done before life is quite 
extinct ! It is moreover affirmed, that when the sick man begins to 
breathe hard a skin is immediately thrown over his face, which, no 
doubt, often causes premature death. 



224 



DAMARA GSAVE. 



saving a child that was about to be destroyed in this barbar- 
ous manner. 

After having consigned the remains of a chief to his last 
resting-place, they collect his arms, war-dress, &c., and sus- 
pend them to a pole or to a tree at the head of the grave. 




DAMABA GRAVE. 



The horns of such oxen as have been killed in commemora- 
tion of the occasion are hung up in like manner — a custom 
also found among the natives of Madagascar. The tomb 
consists of a large heap of stones, surrounded by an inclosure 
of thorn bushes, no doubt to prevent hyaenas and other car- 
nivorous animals from extracting the corpse. Sometimes, 



DEATH OF A CHIEF CUSTOMS. 225 

however, the chief, should he have expressed a wish to that 
effect, instead of being buried, is placed in a reclining posi- 
tion on a slightly raised platform in the centre of his own 
hut, which, in such a case, is surrounded by stout and strong 
palisadings. 

When a chief feels his dissolution approaching, he calls his 
sons to the bedside, and gives them his benediction, which 
consists solely in wishing them an abundance of the good 
things of this world. 

The eldest son of the chief's favorite wife succeeds his fa- 
ther; and as soon as the obsequies are over, he quits the 
desolate spot, remaining absent for years. At last, however, 
he returns, and immediately proceeds to his parent's grave, 
where he kneels down, and, in a whispering voice, tells the 
deceased that he is there with his family, and the cattle that 
he gave him. He then prays for long life, also that his herds 
may thrive and multiply ; and, in short, that he may obtain 
all those things that are dear to a savage. This duty being 
performed, he constructs a kraal on the identical spot where 
once the ancestral camp stood; even the huts and the fire- 
places are placed as much as possible in their former position. 
The chief's own hut is always upon the east side of the in- 
closure. 

The flesh of the first animal slaughtered here is cooked in 
a particular vessel, and, when ready, the chief hands a por- 
tion of it to every one present. An image, consisting of two 
pieces of wood,* supposed to represent the household deity, or 
rather the deified parent, is then produced, and moistened in 
the platter of each individual. The chief then takes the im- 
age, and after affixing a piece of meat to the upper end of it, 
he plants it in the ground on the identical spot where his 
parent was accustomed to sacrifice. The first pail of milk 
produced from the cattle is also taken to the grave, a small 

* Each caste has a particular tree or shrub consecrated to it. Of 
this shrub, a couple of twigs or sticks represent the deceased. 

K2 



226 MALADIES CRUELTY. 

quantity is poured on the ground, and a blessing asked on the 
remainder. 

Fever and ophthalmia (eye-sickness) are the prevailing 
maladies. The symptoms in fever are headache, pains in 
the neck and bowels, general weakness, and ague. It makes 
its appearance about April and May, or when the periodical 
rains have ceased. Ophthalmia, on the other hand, begins to 
show itself in September and October, but reaches its maxi- 
mum when the cold season sets in. The first sensation ex- 
perienced is as if the pupil of the eye was too large. A gath- 
ering of water in the sides and under the eyelids then ensues. 
In a short time this fluid becomes scaldingly hot, and, if not 
quickly and carefully removed, the pain will be intense. The 
sight is sometimes completely destroyed by this malady. In- 
deed, one not unfrequently meets with people either totally 
blind or minus one eye. Europeans are as liable to these 
inflictions as the natives. I speak from experience, having 
myself been a severe sufferer from fever and ophthalmia. 

Comparatively few old people are to be met with in Da- 
mara-land, for which several reasons may be assigned, such 
as their cruel civil broils, and their want of compassion for 
aged and disabled individuals. At times, indeed, they would 
seem to do all they can to hasten the death of such sufferers. 
Some instances of this atrocity have come to my knowledge : 
one of the most shocking occurred at Barmen. 

Finding that a certain poor woman, being nearly blind, 
was unable to provide for herself, Mr. Hahn took compassion 
on the helpless creature, and gave her a small quantity of 
provision almost daily. The brother, finding he could not 
obtain the same boon, grew jealous of the preference shown 
to his sister, and secretly resolved to kill her. This he effect- 
ed by taking her to a spot destitute of water, under the pre- 
text that they were to dig roots, where she was left to her 
fate. A boy who accompanied them asserted that, on the 
unnatural brother returning to the place some days after- 



FOOD MUSIC AND DANCING CUSTOMS. 227 

ward, and finding his sister still lingering, he beat her about 
the head with his knob-stick until life was extinct. 

Milk is the staple food of the Damaras. They eat or 
drink it out of one and the same dish without its being clean- 
ed otherwise than occasionally by the tongues of dogs. The 
people have a notion that if they wash their '' bamboos" 
(pails) the cows would cease to give milk. 

With the exception of the spoils of the chase, they destroy 
but few animals for food. Indeed, unless it be on the occa- 
sion of a marriage, a birth, a death, or a circumcision, cattle 
are rarely killed. 

The Damaras are very fond of music and dancing. The 
only musical instrument known among them is the bow (a 
kind of temporary rude Jews' -harp), from which they con- 
trive to extract a sort of wild melody. By this instrument 
the performer endeavors (and frequently with much success) 
to imitate, musically, the motion peculiar to different ani- 
mals ; for example, the awkward gallop of the giraffe, the 
quick trot of the zebra, and the lively caperings of the beau- , 
tiful springbok. 

The dance consists mostly of mimic representations of the 
actions of oxen and sheep. The dancers accompany their 
gesticulations by monotonous tunes, and keep time by clap- 
ping their hands and striking the ground with their feet. 

As with the Ovambo, the Eastern custom of taking off the 
sandals before entering a stranger's house is observed. 

The Damaras swear "by the tears of their mothers." 
This is most touching and beautiful : it elevates the oath to 
heaven. 

Generally speaking, a chief has but nominal power over 
his subjects. On an attempt to punish heavy offenses, the 
guilty individual often coolly decamps with his cattle, and 
takes refuge with another tribe. In minor matters, howev- 
er, from superstitious customs and old habits, the chief is 
more or less obeyed. 



228 SLAVES ^NUMERALS DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 

The Damaras are idle creatures. What is not done by 
the women is left to the slaves, who are either descendants 
of impoverished members of their own tribe (is not this an- 
other approach to civilization f) or captured Bushmen. The 
former are seized upon when children, and mostly employed 
as herdsmen. 

The Damaras have numerals up to a hundred ; notwith- 
standing which, they are sorely puzzled should the sum ex- 
ceed the number of fingers. They count like bad poets, who 
settle their metre by their digits. It is a most amusing 
sight to witness a group trying to reckon a dozen head of 
cattle. 

Though they give names to many of the heavenly bodies, 
they have a very absurd conception of their character, rota- 
tory motion, and so forth. Thus many imagine that the 
sun which sets at night is different from that which rises in 
the morning. Like the children who wondered what was 
done with the old moons, perhaps these savages are equally 
perplexed to ascertain what becomes of the old sum. 

The domestic animals indigenous to the country are oxen, 
sheep, and dogs. The latter greatly resemble those men- 
tioned as existing among the Namaquas, but, be it said to 
the honor of the Damaras, they take much more care of these 
associates and companions of man than their southern neigh- 
bors. Indeed, I have known them to pay as much as two 
fine oxen for a dog. 

Of the Damara cattle I shall have occasion to speak here- 
after. The sheep are (or rather were) plentiful, and the 
mutton is by no means bad. Though somewhat spare-look- 
ing, they furnish good joints when cut up. Skin and offal 
included, they not unfrequently weigh 100 pounds, and some- 
times as much as 110 to 120 pounds. They have large tails, 
like those of the Cape Colony, but they do not arrive at such 
a formidable size. They have no wool, but a kind of short, 
glossy hair, lying close to the skin, covers the body. The 



DISEASES OF CATTLE " BLOOD-SICKNESS." 229 

greatest peculiarity of these animals is their color, which is 
of every hue and tint. 

Cattle are subject to several diseases. The most common 
and dangerous is that which affects the throat, and which 
invariably proves fatal. Cataracts on the eye, frequently 
followed by blindness and swelling of the feet, are also very 
common ailments. 

Sheep often die from the blood conglomerating in divers 
places under the skin, which is called the " blood-sickness." 
It is even asserted that man is affected by this disease (some- 
times from partaking of the flesh of the infected animal), and 
that the only thing to save him under such circumstances is 
instantly to cut away the parts affected. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Dispatch a Messenger to Cape-Town. — Depart from Barmen. — Eik- 
hams. — Eyebrecht. — Depart from Eikhams. — Elephant Fountain. — 
Tunobis. — Enormous quantities of Game. — Shooting by Night at 
the "Skarm." — The Author has several narrow Escapes. — Checked 
in attempt to reach the Ngami. — The Party set out on their Return. 
— Reach Elephant Fountain. — How to make Soap. — Pitfalls. — A 
night Adventure. — Game scarce. — Join Hans. — The Party nearly 
poisoned. — Arrival at Walfisch Bay. — A tub Adventure. — Extraor- 
dinary Mortality among the Fish. — Author narrowly escapes Drown- 
ing. — Arrival of the Missionary Vessel. — Letters from Home. — Mr. 
Galton returns to Europe^ — Reflections. 

The vessel which brought the missionary stores to Walfisch 
Bay every second year was expected in December, and by 
this opportunity we hoped to be able to return to Europe, 
or at least to the Cape. In order, however, to insure a pas- 
sage, Mr. Galton dispatched a messenger to his banker in 
Cape-Town to make the needful arrangements. In the 
mean time, as we had still several months on our hands, 
Galton resolved to employ the interval in making an excur- 



230 LEAVE BARMEN EIKHAMS. 

sion to the eastward, partly with the view of penetrating to 
the Lake Ngami, our original object, and partly to become 
better acquainted with Great Namaqua-land and its serai- 
civilized inhabitants. Moreover, the prospect of good sport 
with the larger game, which every one said we were sure to 
meet with in abundance, was a further inducement to under- 
take the journey. 

It was arranged that Hans should proceed to Walfisch 
Bay with one of the vehicles to fetch the remainder of the 
stores, &c., while Galton and myself, with the other wagon, 
prosecuted our journey to the eastward. A rendezvous hav- 
ing been appointed where Hans was to meet us, we left Bar- 
men in the afternoon of the 12th of August. In about three 
days we reached Eikhams, the residence, as already said, of 
Jonker Afrikaner ; where my friend, before j&nally leaving 
the country, was anxious to settle certain disputes between 
the native tribes. 

Eikhams is very prettily situated on the slope of a hill, 
bare at the summit, but at its base adorned with very fine 
groups of mimosas, among which a tributary to the Swakop 
winds its course. It was the only spot in South Africa 
where I ever saw any thing resembling a twilight. This 
was produced from the reflection of the setting sun on the 
peaks of the picturesque mountain ranges by which it is al- 
most entirely surrounded. 

Eikhams is abundantly supplied with water from three or 
four copious springs, and the site of these springs being ele- 
vated, the land in the lower ground is easily irrigated. The 
natives construct gardens, wherein they grow many sorts of 
vegetables, some of which arrive at perfection. The soil is 
exceedingly fertile, and seems well suited to the cultivation 
of tobacco. Taking it as a whole, Eikhams is the prettiest 
place I ever saw either in Damara-land or Namaqua-land. 

About twenty minutes' walk from Eikhams is a bountiful 
hot spring. The water, just where it gushes out from the 



JONKER SHOWS OFF TO ADVANTAGE. 231 

limestone rock, has a temperature of 194 degrees of Fahren- 
heit. Mr. Plahn informed me that here, on one occasion, he 
boiled a piece of meat, and that, though not quite so good 
as when dressed in the ordinary manner, it was not unpal- 
atable. 

Eikhams, as already said, was formerly a Rhenish mis- 
sionary station. It was founded so far back as 1843 by the 
Rev, C H. Hahn, resident at New Barmen in Damara-land. 
After a time, however, it was given up to the Wesleyan So- 
ciety, which sent Mr. Haddy to reside there. This gentle- 
man erected an excellent dwelling-house and a most sub- 
stantial church. For a while the mission flourished, but 
was latterly abandoned, and the station is now rapidly fall- 
ing into decay. This, I am sorry to say, has been the fate 
of many other institutions of a similar nature in Southern 
Africa. 

Among other gifts, Mr. Galton presented Jonker with a 
splendid cocked hat and richly-gilt uniform : a court dress, 
in fact, that had once probably adorned the person of some 
great man when paying his respects to majesty, and with 
which the African chief expressed himself highly gratified. 

Being desirous of obtaining a likeness of so famous a per- 
sonage as Afrikaner, I requested him one day to put on this 
costume and allow me to take his portrait. He good-na- 
turedly consented to my solicitation, and on the following 
morning appeared duly appareled. We rather expected to 
have a laugh at him, since his gait and figure were some- 
what unprepossessing ; but we were disappointed. He march- 
ed up to his seat with as much ease and dignity as if he were 
familiar with the usage of courts. 

During our stay at Eikhams we became acquainted with 
a Mr. Eyebrecht, formerly in the missionary employ, but now 
Jonker's right-hand man. In addition to excellent English 
and Dutch, he spoke the Namaqua and the Damara tongues 
rather fluently. As he was well acquainted with the coun- 



232 



PORTRAIT OF JONKER DELAY. 




JONKER AI-KIKAMEK. 



try, Mr. Galton secured his services for our tour to the east- 
ward, and he proved of the greatest assistance. 

On arriving at Eikhams Mr. Galton imagined that his busi- 
ness with Jonker would soon be arranged ; but in this part 
of the world expedition is not the order of the day, and we 
were therefore so long delayed as to prevent our departure 
until the 30th of August. 

In the course of our journey we encountered a great num- 
ber and variety of wild animals, and consequently our larder 
was Avell supplied. Indeed, in a few hours, on a certain 
night, I bagged no less than three hartebeests, two pallahs, 
and live zebras, and, had I felt inclined, might have shot 




ELEPHANT FOUNTAIN REACH TDNOBIS. 233 

double this number. We also 
observed a few wild boars. 

After a fortnight's harass- 
ing travel we arrived at Ele- 
phant Fountain, formerly a 
Wesleyan missionary station. 
It was founded in 1847 by the 
Rev. Mr. Tindal, but had of 
late years been abandoned in 
consequence of a destructive 

WILD boar's head. r» 1 . 1 • 1 rt^ 

lever, which carried on many 
of the natives. Even the few Europeans settled there suf- 
fered severely. It was situated within the territory of the 
chief Amral, who was born and bred in the Cape Colony, 
and, if I am not misinformed, was raised to his present dig- 
nity partly through missionary influence. 

Elephant Fountain is chiefly inhabited by Hill-Damaras, 
who cultivate extensive gardens of tobacco, &c. Game was 
abundant thereabout, but we had not then time to look aft- 
er it. 

From Elephant Fountain eastward the country was rep- 
resented as very sandy and bushy, and, as our oxen were in 
a very indifferent condition, we determined to leave the wag- 
on behind in charge of John Mortar, the cook, and to pros- 
ecute our journey with pack-and-ride oxen. Amral, with a 
great number of the tribe, expressed a wish to accompany 
us, chiefly for the sake of the anticipated sport. As we trav- 
eled on we were joined by Lambert, his son, and other Na- 
maquas, with their attendants, till at last our party amount- 
ed to several hundred individuals. 

After no little inconvenience and misery, on account of the 
great heat, the terrible drought, and scarcity of pasturage 
about the few and widely - separated watering-places, we 
reached Tunobis, or Otjombinde, on the 3d of October. Ac- 
cording to Mr. Galton's observations, this place is situated in 
latitude 21° 55^ and 21° 55' east longitude. 



234 ATTEMPT TO REACH THE NGAMI ABANDONED. 

The Bushmen who inhabited these parts declared that the 
country between here and the Ngami was then impassable, 
and that any attempt on our part to reach it would be cer- 
tain destruction to ourselves and cattle. Though we did not 
altogether credit their story, we felt that, under the circum- 
stances, it would have been highly imprudent to proceed far- 
ther. 

From a rough calculation, we concluded that we could not 
be above nine or ten days' journey from the lake, and it was, 
therefore, with no little reluctance that we gave up the at- 
tempt. However, it was all for the best, and we ought, in- 
deed, to be grateful to the natives for their truthful informa- 
tion. From after experience, I am quite confident that, had 
we tried to push on that year, nothing could have saved us 
and our beasts of burden from perishing from thirst. After 
leaving Tunobis, we should not have met with water for at 
least three days and a half of actual travel, besides the nec- 
essary delays. To perform this, even with fresh animals, 
would perhaps have been a thing unheard-of in these re- 
gions, but the difficulty was magnified by the state of our 
cattle, which were now reduced to skeletons. Indeed, even 
before reaching Tunobis, some of them had been left behind 
from sheer exhaustion. 

I must confess that, on first reading my friend's narrative, 
I was somewhat startled on coming upon his pleasant asser- 
tion that he did not much care about reaching Lake Ngami. 
It is true that, when landing at Walfisch Bay, we had but 
little hope of arriving there ; but, at least for my own part, 
I had always conceived the great goal of our journey to be 
precisely the Ngami. Moreover, with regard to his supposi- 
tion that the country hence toward the lake was compara- 
tively open and free from bushes, and that, consequently, a 
road to it could be traced without the slightest difficulty, I 
can only say that shortly after leaving Tunobis — not to men- 
tion, the scarcity of water — the bush becomes so dense, and 



ENOEMOUS QUANTITIES OF GAME. 235 

the thorns so tormenting, that I found it necessary to make 
immense detoum^ and even then all our clothes, pack-sad- 
dles, &c., were literally torn to ribbons. 

The few days that we remained at Tunobis were spent 
profitably and pleasantly. Besides much interesting infor- 
mation of the country, derived from the Bushmen, part of 
which has since been substantiated, we had abundant shoot- 
ing. From the absence of water within a distance of two 
or three days' journey of the place, the number of animals 
that nightly congregated here to quench their thirst was 
truly astonishing. 

To give the reader an idea of the immense quantity of 
game hereabouts, I may mention that, in the course of the 
few days we remained at Tunobis, our party shot, among 
other animals, upward of thirty rhinoceroses. One night, 
indeed, when quite alone, I killed, in the space of five hours 
(independently of other game), no less than eight of those 
beasts, among which were three distinct species ; and it is 
my belief that if I had persevered I might have destroyed 
double the number.* But I never took delight in useless 
slaughter. In our case, and I think I may say in all cases 
where I have been concerned in killing a great number of 
wild beasts, not a pound of flesh was ever wasted, for what 
we did not require for our own use was devoured by the 
natives. 

As another evidence of the enormous quantity of game in 
this region, I may state that the fountain in question, which 
was a copious one — nay, apparently inexhaustible — was al- 
most nightly drunk dry. 

On several occasions I had narrow escapes from being 
gored by the horns of these ugly monsters. Thus one an- 

* When we thus shot at night, we generally ensconced ourselves 
in a " skiirm," that is, a small circular inclosure six or ei^ht feet in 
diameter, the walls (usually consisting of loose stones) being about two 
feet in height. 



236 NARROW ESCAPES MORTIFICATION. 

imal, on receiving a mortal wound, charged me with such 
fury as to carry completely away the fore part of my " skarm," 
and I only saved my life by throwing myself with great force 
against the opposite wall, which fortunately gave way. 

At another time I was walking leisurely up to a huge 
female white rhinoceros, that Mr. Galton had killed durino; 
the preceding night, when all at once its calf, about the size 
of an ox, rushed upon me from behind the carcass. Its 
movements were so rapid that I had neither time to get out 
of its way nor to level my gun; but passing the barrel,' like 
a stick, against its chest, I fired, and, as luck would have it, 
the ball caused the calf to swerve on one side and take it- 
self off. A short time afterward, and at no great distance 
from our encampment, it was found dead. 

Being tired of shooting, and having got all the informa- 
tion we could from the Bushmen, we bent our steps home- 
ward. Our failure in not reaching the Lake Ngami deeply 
mortified me. Night and day I was haunted by the thought. 
Taking every thing into consideration, I could not help think- 
ing that, under more favorable circumstances, success would 
crown my endeavors, were I determined to renew the at- 
tempt. Accordingly, I made up my mind first to see my 
friend safe from the African shore, and then to return as soon 
as the rains had fallen. 

I communicated my resolve to Mr. Galton, who at once 
fully entered into my views ; and as I had neither oxen nor 
wagons, he kindly promised to supply me with both, as also 
with such articles of barter as his own reduced stores af- 
forded. 

After nearly a month's absence, we found ourselves safe 
at Elephant F'ountain. Notwithstanding we had been al- 
most solely living on fresh meat during this time, we had 
only used the one half of a small copper-cap box* of salt ! I 

* A copper-cap box, for the information of my female readers, is 
Hbout the size of a pill-box. 



BREAD NOT NECESSARY SOAP-MAKING PITFALLS. 237 

mention the circumstance to show that salt is not strictly 
necessary to man's existence. Moreover, excepting once or 
twice at the missionary table, we had not tasted bread for 
months. I had so totally forgotten the use of it, that, after 
our return to Barmen, on being entertained at Mr. Hahn's 
house, I finished my meal without noticing the piece of bread 
which was conspicuous enough alongside my plate. Our men 
grumbled a little at first at being deprived of bread, but they 
also soon got accustomed to do without it, nor did the least 
inconvenience arise from its absence. I have always heard 
that the want of bread and vegetables is the greatest hard- 
ship a man can experience. Be that as it may, the human 
system — as the above facts demonstrate — is capable of recon- 
ciling itself to nearly all conditions and circumstances. 

The men left in charge of the wagon were well, but poor 
John Mortar, the cook, looked pale and thin. On asking 
him the cause, he pointed to the fire where our food was 
cooked, and, with something like an oath, exclaimed, " Sir, 
look at that pot! I have been watching it these seven-and- 
twenty days and nights, and, after all, I find that my labor 
is thrown away !" 

Shortly after leaving Elephant Fountain, John, it seems, 
had set about making soap, of which our supply was exhaust- 
ed. Through some mistake, however, he used unslaked lime 
instead of the alkali obtained in the country from the ash of 
the native soap-bush. This at once accounted for his failure 
in regard to the article itself, and his own emaciated appear- 
ance. 

Game, as has been said, was very abundant near to Ele- 
phant Fountain, and, by means of spacious pitfalls, great 
numbers of wild animals were almost nightly captured. The 
whole ground in the neighborhood of Zwart Nosop, which 
flowed past the place, was literally a succession of pitfalls, 
and they were so cleverly arranged and well concealed that 
it required the utmost caution in walking about. Even peo- 



238 A NIGHT ADVENTURE' — SOLITUDE. 

pie thoroughly acquainted with the locality ran great risk of 
being precipitated into these dangerous traps. 

Lions were numerous and very daring. From time to 
time, several of Amral's people, while lying in ambush for 
game at night, had been either carried off or fearfully man- 
gled by these beasts. Finding that I was somewhat incau- 
tious, the chief expressed the greatest apprehensions for my 
safety, more especially as I was usually quite alone. 

On one of these occasions I must confess to having felt 
rather uncomfortable. I had posted myself in a dense mimosa 
brake, commanding the approach to the Zwart Nosop River 
at a point much frequented by wild animals, and flanked by 
an immense pitfall. The darkness was deepened by sur- 
rounding thick foliage and high river banks. Indeed, so 
black was the night that I could not discern even the muzzle 
of my gun. The gloominess of my solitude was increased by 
the occasional "Qua-qua!" of the night-heron, which made 
the succeeding hush more dreary, during which even the 
falling of leaves and rustling of insects among dry grass was 
hailed as a relief to the oppressive dumbness. To a man in 
a savage wilderness, and without a companion, silence, espe- 
cially when combined with utter privation of light, is inex- 
pressibly solemn. It strikes the mind not merely as a ne- 
gation, but as a threatening presence. It seems ominous. 
I shall never forget the loneliness and sense of desolation I 
felt on this occasion. It was past midnight, and still no game 
appeared. 

Suddenly I fancied I heard the purr and breathing of an 
animal close behind me ; but as no other indications of any 
living thing ensued, I attributed the sounds to a heated im- 
agination. All at once, however, the dismal stillness was 
disturbed by the quick steps of a troop of pallahs descending 
the stony slope leading direct to my ambush. Stooping as 
low as possible, in order to catch their outline, I waited their 
arrival v/ith my gun on full cock. Nearer and nearer they 



A NIGHT ADVENTUKE " SIR, THE LION." 239 

came, till at.la^t^ fancied the leader was on the verge of the 
pitfall ; but jhst at that moment there was a low, stifled 
growl, a rush, and then a faint cry, as of some dying animal. 
All was again silent. Though the impenetrable darkness 
prevented me from seeing any thing, I could no longer doubt 
that I was in the immediate vicinity of a lion. I freely ac- 
knowledge that I felt awed, well knowing that, were he to 
attack me, I should be completely at his mercy. My situa- 
tion was critical im the extreme. Straining eyes and ears to 
discover the beast's whereabout, I held my breath in fearful 
suspense, while every nerve was strung to the highest pitch. 
Presently I heard, 'to my astonishment, the report of a gun 
within fifty paces of my hiding-place ; then a second and a 
third shot. This made matters worse ; for I now became ap- 
prehensive that the men, not aware of my presence, might 
direct their fire toward me. I therefore sprang to my feet, 
and vociferated, " Who's there f " Sir ! the lion — the lion 1" 
replied Eyebrecht, for it was no other. The next instant he 
stood trembling before me. He had, it appeared, been sent 
by Amral to call me back, but had encountered the beast in 
his path, and fired, in order to frighten him away. 

Though I did not exactly comply with the wishes of the 
chief, I deemed it advisable, after what had passed, to re- 
move to a more open place, where I was less likely to be 
taken by surprise. Early next morning a number of Hot- 
tentots came to examine the ground, when, as I had expect- 
ed, we found the footprints of a lion at the very back of my 
" skarm," and scarcely distant the length of the gun-barrel 
from my own person, where he had evidently been crouching 
previously to leaping on the pallah (whose cry I had heard in 
the night), but which, though wounded, had effected its escape. 
How far the beast intended me mischief is hard to say, but, 
in any case, my position had not been an enviable one. 

On our return journey to Barmen it rained heavily, and in 
some places the landscape looked quite revived. Many mi- 



240 POWER OF ANIMALS TO SCENT HERBAGE. 

gratory birds, such as the swallow, the cuckoo, and others, 
had again made their appearance. 

The animals, which during the dry season are compelled 
to gather round the springs and other permanent waters, were 
enabled, by the late rains, to scatter themselves over a large 
extent of country, and were now difficult to find. There can 
be little doubt that the instinctive power of animals — domes- 
ticated as well as wild — is capable of catching the scent of 
humid winds and green herbage at a very great distance. 
Thus I have often seen oxen turn their heads toward the 
quarter where distant lightning indicated that rain had fall- 
en, and sniff with evident pleasure the breeze produced by 
colder air. Mr. Moffat, the missionary, mentions an instance 
where a great number of cattle were entirely lost, solely, as 
he supposes, from this cause. 

" Many years previous to my sojourn in Namaqua-land," 
says the reverend gentleman, " Afrikaner thus lost the great- 
er part of his cattle. One evening a strong wind commenced 
blowing from the north ; it smelt of green grass, as the na- 
tives expressed it. The cattle, not being in folds, started off 
after dark. The circumstance being unprecedented, it was 
supposed they had merely wandered out to the common, 
where they were accustomed to graze ; but it was found, aft- 
er much search, that some thousands of cattle had directed 
their course to the north. A few were recovered, but the 
majority escaped to the Damara country, after having been 
pursued hundreds of miles." 

For my own part, I have frequently passed through local- 
ities abounding with game, and, repassing them in a short 
time, I have found them deserted without any apparent cause; 
as I proceeded, however, I have discovered them in quite dif- 
ferent quarters, and ascertained that the attraction has been 
the young grass, which was either produced by the moisture 
of the atmosphere, or from the natives having fired the old 
grass. The rapidity with which parched and sun-burnt pas- 



AN ADVENTURE PASTURAGE SCARCE. 241 

turages in tropical climes are converted by any of these 
causes into luxuriant savannas is incredible, and can only be 
duly estimated by those who have themselves vi^itnessed such 
changes. 

A stage on this side of Eikhams we encountered Hans, 
who had met with a little adventure in the neighborhood of 
Scheppman's Mountain, where he had one day unyoked. He 
had been out in search of game, when on his return he was 
astonished to observe a number of natives rushing toward 
the wagon, no doubt with the intention of plundering it, and 
probably of spearing the men who had it in charge. On see- 
ing Hans approach with a gun, however, they all took to 
their heels ; but some were captured, and, after they had un- 
dergone a sound drubbing, and been threatened with death 
should they ever attempt a similar outrage, they were allow- 
ed to depart. Not many hours elapsed before these very 
savages returned to beg for tobacco ! 

"We were sorry to find that our cattle looked thin and mis- 
erable. Indeed, Hans had experienced the greatest difficulty 
in bringing on the wagon. Restored tranquillity had given 
confidence to the Damaras, who were now flocking in great 
numbers with their cattle to the banks of the Swakop, the 
result of which was that every blade of grass was consumed 
for miles around both sides of the river. This was indeed 
sad news, as our route lay precisely through these parts, and 
our draft animals were by this time in a distressingly ex- 
hausted and reduced state. It required some efforts on our 
part to overcome these difficulties, and we lost no time in re- 
tracing our steps. After Mr. Galton had disposed of some 
of the superfluous goods to the natives, and exchanged the 
run-away mules to Jonker for cattle, we bade farewell to the 
hospitable hearth of the missionaries at Barmen and Richter- 
feldt, and proceeded quickly on our road to Walfisch Bay. 

On arriving at the confluence of the Swakop and the Tjo- 
bis Rivers, we had a narrow escape from being poisoned, aa 



242 NARROW ESCAPE ^VISITORS A "SELL." 

the Hill-Damaras had mixed the juice of the euphorhia can- 
delabrum with the stagnant pool-water for the purpose of 
killing buffaloes, which were numerous hereabout. Fortu- 
nately, by having gone in advance of our party, in the hope 
of obtaining a shot at these animals, I discovered the poison- 
ed water (easily detected by its peculiar clay color) in time 
to prevent any serious mischief. Some of the dogs partook 
of it, but, having previously taken their fill of clear, pure wa- 
ter, they escaped with a heavy vomiting. At this identical 
place Hans had a short time previously found several dead 
and dying buffaloes that had been poisoned. 

The symptoms with men, after imbibing the poison in 
question — not the least of the many dangers to which the 
African traveler is almost daily exposed — are generally a full- 
ness of the system, quick pulsation, giddiness, and a violent 
"flesh-quake." 

Though our cattle suffered dreadfully from want of pastur- 
age, we reached Walfisch Bay on the 5th of December with- 
out the loss of a single ox. 

The missionary vessel had not yet arrived, but there were 
two others, a brig and a bark. The master of the first was 
an Englishman, in search of guano, as also of nitrate of soda, 
which was reported to exist on this coast. He imagined that 
he had really found the latter valuable salt, and whispered 
his discoveiy to us as a great secret. On examining the spec- 
imens in his possession, however, it was found to be noth- 
ing more nor less than pieces of common soap ! part, prob- 
ably, of the cargo of some wrecked vessel. The action of the 
water had so altered the soap in appearance that the mistake 
was really excusable. On learning from us the real nature 
of his supposed prize, the poor captain, as may be imagined, 
evinced no little chagrin and disappointment. 

The second ship was an American, in search of the sperm 
whale, which is not unfrequently found in these waters. Our 
shabby and tattered garments and unshaved faces induced 



A TUB ADVENTURE. 243 

the captain to regard us at first with suspicion, taking us not 
improbably for outlaws, unfit for other society than savage 
men and beasts. By degrees, however, his mind, as to our 
proper character, was set at rest, and we were hospitably 
entertained on board his ship, which was scrupulously clean 
* and orderly. 

The crews of many of the whaling and guano ships who 
were in the habit of frequenting Walfisch Bay had behaved 
very outrageously, either by plundering, or wantonly destroy- 
ing the contents of the temporary store-house. On one oc- 
casion they had been amusingly baffled in their dishonest and 
disreputable practices. At the time of which I am now 
speaking, the store was tenanted by Mr. Dickson, the trader, 
who possessed some very fine lion cubs. These a certain cap- 
tain determined to purloin, and, for that purpose, sent a 
number of his men in the dead of the night to carry them 
away. The animals were usually kept in a large tub or bar- 
rel ; but it so happened that, on the very evening the master 
had fixed on for the execution of his plan, they had been re- 
moved elsewhere, and that Mr. Bassingweight, one of Mr. 
Dickson's employ es, had taken up his abode in their old quar- 
ters. The sailors entered the building unperceived, and be- 
gan rapidly to roll the tub away. Mr. Bassingweight at first 
imagined he was dreaming ; but, as the motion became more 
violent, the thumping of his head against the wooden walls 
soon brought him to his senses, on which he roared out most 
lustily. The unexpected and strange noise so terrified the 
sailors that they made a precipitate retreat. 

The next morning, the captain, having previously had the 
audacity to possess himself of one of Mr. Dickson's horses, 
came riding, very drunk, to his house, and in an imperious 
and impudent tone demanded the cubs to be given up to him. 
At the same time, he thrust an immense dagger through a dish 
of pancakes which a servant was busy preparing. Mr. Dick- 
son was not at home ; but his wife, who was a shrewd and 



244 A FIGHT. 

determined woman, not only refused compliance, but com- 
manded the fellow instantly to dismount and go about his 
business. On his hesitating, she unceremoniously pulled him 
off the horse, and threatened to knock him down if he did 
not immediately leave the house. Fearing, however, that he 
might return with his crew during the night to revenge him- 
self, and, perhaps, take forcible possession of the young lions, 
she ordered Bassingweight and another of her servants (hav- 
ing previously primed them with cordials to raise their spirits 
and courage) to proceed at dusk toward the Bay to watch 
the enemy's movements. Mrs. Dickson's surmise proved cor- 
rect ; for the men had not gone far before they distinguished 
the clamorous voices of a number of persons who were rapid- 
ly approaching them. Squatting behind some sand-hillocks, 
they allowed the marauders to come within range, when they 
fired a shot over their heads, which had the desired effect. 
"Without waiting for further hostility. Jack instantly bolted. 
Elated by their easy success, Bassingweight and his compan- 
ion instantly gave chase, and on coming up with the fugitives, 
a terrible pele-mele fight ensued. Notwithstanding one of the 
men was almost a giant in strength and stature, the odds 
were too great, and they were on the point of being overpow- 
ered. At this critical moment Bassingweight called loudly 
for assistance, hoping that some of the natives, who occasion- 
ally slept on the beach, might come to the rescue. To their 
inexpressible relief, up rose from among a number of empty 
barrels, which happened to be ranged along the shore, a Bush- 
man. His appearance acted like magic, and instantly turned 
the cards in their favor ; for the sailors, as it was afterward 
ascertained, imagining the casks to be savages also, and dread- 
ing probably their poisoned arrows, were seized with a panic, 
and fled precipitately in every direction, some rushing up to 
their necks in water, while others actually fell on their knees 
begging forgiveness ! Unless for the Bushman, Bassingweight 
assured me that himself and companion must have been in- 
evitably killed. 



EXTKAORDINAKY SPECTACLE ^NARROAV ESCAPE. 245 

The bay presented at this time a most extraordinary spec- 
tacle, the whole being covered with one mass of dead fish. 
We could only account for so unusual a sight by supposing 
that an epidemic had occurred among them, more especially 
as it did not appear to be confined to one or two species of 
the finny tribe, but to all which are indigenous to the coast, 
the gigantic shark not excepted. In some of the more shel- 
tered spots the fish lay so deep that I remember on one occa- 
sion to have had some difficulty in forcing my way through 
in a small Mackintosh punt. 

As may well be expected, the effluvium arising from such 
a mass of decomposed matter was offensive and sickening. 
Whether all the fish died, or the stench drove the survivors 
away, I am unable to decide ; but certain it is that hardly a 
fish was left in the Bay. On our first arrival we captured 
large quantities by means of a small seine-net, but now all 
our attempts proved futile. 

• An incident occurred to me one day which might have 
been attended with fatal consequences. A cutter had lately 
arrived from the Cape, the object of the captain being to har- 
poon the " humpback" whale, which at this season of the 
year abounds in the vicinity of Walfisch Bay. I had paid a 
visit to the craft in the punt mentioned. On my return it 
came on to blow hard from the land. In calm weather the 
punt could be managed with great ease ; but, on account of 
her flat bottom and light construction, it was impossible to 
make head against a stiff breeze. When within a stone's 
throw of the shore she became unmanageable, and for the 
space of fully one hour all my efforts to propel her were un- 
availing. At last, finding my strength failing, I made one 
more desperate effort, and, having fortunately succeeded in 
getting her into shallow water, I leaped over the side and 
ultimately brought her to a place of safety. My arms were 
quite paralyzed, and for a while I was unable to lift them 
from my sides. Had the struggle lasted another minute, noth- 

\ 



246 AKRIVAL OP THE SHSSIONARY VESSEL BAD NEWS. 

ing could have saved me from being blown out into the open 
sea, and as there was a gale of wind at the time, there can 
be no doubt as to the result. 

On the 31st of December, being then at Scheppmansdorf, 
I received intelligence that the long-expected missionary ves- 
sel had arrived, and that she was to sail in a few days for 
St. Helena. On the following morning, the first day of the 
year 1852, a parcel of European letters was handed to me. 
It was now fully twenty months since I had heard any news 
of my friends, and I hailed this token of their interest in my 
behalf with rapture. But alas! although I had much to be 
thankful for, the intelligence was damped by the unexpected 
tidings of the death of a younger brother. Poor fellow ! 
notwithstanding he and I could never agree during life, I 
loved him dearly. His last words, uttered in delirium, were 
said to have been addressed to me, imploring me to come to 
his assistance. He died at Rio Janeiro of that scourge, the 
yellow fever. Peace be to his memory ! The cholera was 
also raging in Sweden, and I trembled for the news that might 
next reach me. 

I proceeded immediately to Walfisch Bay to bid farewell 
to Galton. John Williams, John Mortar, and Timbo were 
to accompany him to St. Helena, whence they were to be 
forwarded to Cape-Town. Hans — in himself a host — John 
Allen, and John St. Helena, agreed to remain with me. 

My specimens of natural history, which had been collected 
with much care and trouble, and which had cost me many a 
sleepless night, I consigned to Oalton's care. They consisted 
of about five hundred bird-skins, nearly double that number 
of insects, and a few odds and ends. I also took this oppor- 
tunity to forward several letters to my European friends. 

Galton appeared delighted with the prospect of soon re- 
turning to civilized life. Though he had proved himself to 
be capable of enduring hardships and fatigue as well as any 
of us, it was evident that he had had enough of it. 



GALTON ARRIVES SAFE GOLD MEDAL. 247 

The schooner was to have sailed on the 5 th of January ; 
but, in consequence of the arrival of " The Grecian" man-of- 
war, then cruising off' the West Coast, it was postponed till 
the next day. As the schooner gradually disappeared from 
view, I began to feel in full force the loneliness of my situa- 
tion, and the loss of my friend's company. It would seem 
that, the farther the object of our esteem and regard is sepa- 
rated from us, the better we are able to appreciate its value. 
Galton's excellent disposition and even temper had enabled 
us to struggle through all difficulties very happily together, 
and it was, therefore, with sincere regret that I parted from 
him. I whispered a prayer for his safe return to the bosom 
of his family. It was heard ; for, though the passage proved 
of long duration, he reached England in safety, after an ab- 
sence of two years. 

Not long subsequently to his return, the Royal Geograph- 
ical Society, I was happy to learn, bestowed upon him their 
gold medal as a reward for his services in the cause of sci- 
ence. 



CHAPTER XX. 



Capture of young Ostriches, — Natural History of the Ostrich ; where 
found ; Description of ; Size ; Weight ; Age ; Voice ; Strength ; 
Speed ; Food ; Water ; Breeding ; Incubation ; Cunning ; Stones 
found in Eggs ; Chicks ; Flesh. — Brain in request among the Ro- 
mans. — Eggs highly prized. — Uses of Egg-shells. — Feathers an ar- 
ticle of Commerce. — Ostrich Parasols. — The Bird's destructive Pro- 
pensities. — Habits. — Resembles Quadrupeds. — Domestication. — 
The Chase. — Snares. — Ingenious Device. — Enemies of the Ostrich. 

Ostriches are at all times more or less numerous on the 
Naarip Plain, but more particularly so at this season, on ac- 
count of the naras (of which mention was made in the second 
chapter) being now ripe. 

While waiting for the missionary vessel, previously to the 



248 OSTKICHES MANCEUVRES OF THE OLD BIRD. 

departure of Mr. Galton, I made several trips between the 
Bay and Scheppmansdorf, in order to arrange matters for my 
intended journey to the Ngami. On one of these occasions 
I was accompanied by my friend. When we had proceeded 
little more than half the distance, and in a part of the plain 
entirely destitute of vegetation, we discovered a male and fe- 
male ostrich, with a brood of young ones about the size of 
ordinary barn-door fowls. This was a sight we had long 
been looking for, as Galton had been requested by Professor 
Owen to procure a few craniums of the young of this bird, 
in order to settle certain anatomical questions. According- 
ly, we forthwith dismounted from our oxen and gave chase, 
which proved of no ordinary interest. 

The moment the parent birds became aware of our inten- 
tion, they set off at full speed, the female leading the way, 
the young following in her wake, and the cock, though at 
some little distance, bringing up the rear of the family party. 
It was very touching to observe the anxiety the old birds 
evinced for the safety of their progeny. Finding that we 
were quickly gaining upon them, the male at once slackened 
his pace, and diverged somewhat from his course ; but, see- 
ing that we were not to be diverted from our purpose, he 
again increased his speed, and, with wings drooping so as al- 
most to touch the ground, he hovered round us, now in wide 
circles, and then decreasing the circumference till he came 
almost within pistol-shot, when he abruptly threw himself on 
the ground, and struggled desperately to regain his legs, as it 
appeared, like a bird that has been badly wounded. Having 
previously fired at him, I really thought he was disabled, and 
made quickly toward him. But this was only a ruse on his 
part ; for, on my nearer approach, he slowly rose and began 
to run in an opposite direction to that of the female, who by 
this time was considerably ahead with her charge. 

After about an hour's severe chase, we secured nine of the 
brood ; and, though it consisted of about double that number, 



COURSING lOUNG OSTRICHES. 



249 




L 2 



250 THE OSTRICH WHERE POUND SIZE AND WEIGHT. 

we found it necessary to be contented with what we had 
bagged.* 

On returning to the Bay, however, the next morning in a 
mule-cart, Mr. Galton again encountered the same birds with 
the remainder of the family, and, after a short race, cap- 
tured six more of the chicks. 

The ostrich (which, from possessing the rudiments of a 
gall-bladder, and the absence of wings fit for flight, seems to 
form a kind of connecting link between the two great fam- 
ilies of mammalia and aves) is an inhabitant of a large portion 
of Africa, but rarely extends farther east than the deserts of 
Arabia. Throughout the Indian Archipelago, the family of 
birds (of which the ostrich is the leading type) is represented 
by the cassowary ; in Australia by the emeu ; in the south- 
ern extremity of the western hemisphere by the rhea ; and 
even in Europe, though somewhat departing from the type, 
it has its representative in the stately bustard. 

Any thing like a scientific description of the ostrich would 
here be out of place ; but it may be proper to mention that 
the lower part of the neck and the body of the mature male 
bird are of a deep glossy black, intermingled with a few 
whitish feathers, only visible when the plumage is ruffled. 
"In the female the general color of the feathers is of a gray- 
ish or ashy brown, slightly fringed with white. In both sexes 
the large plumes of the wings and tail are beautifully white." 

The ostrich, when full grown, stands no less than from 
seven to eight feet, and instances are recorded where indi- 
vidual birds have attained as much as nine. Its weight is 
proportionate. Judging from what I have experienced in 
carrying the dead body, it is not less, perhaps, than two or 
three hundred pounds. Indeed, there are persons who be- 
lieve that the mature bird, when in prime condition, as a 
butcher would say, will attain a weight of thirty stone. 

* The wood-cut on the preceding page is a faithful representation 
of the chase described, which took place shortly before sunset. 



AGE CRY STRENGTH SPEED FOOD. 25 1 

I could never obtain any data that would enable me to 
form a correct estimate of the age of the ostrich, but it may 
fairly be concluded that he lives between twenty and thirty 
years. 

The cry of the ostrich so greatly resembles that of a lion 
as occasionally to deceive even the natives. It is usually 
heard early in the morning, and at times also at night. 

The strength of the ostrich is enormous. A single blow 
from its gigantic foot (it always strikes forward) is sufficient 
to prostrate, nay, to kill many beasts of prey, such as the 
hyaena, the panther, the wild dog, the jackal, and others. 

The ostrich is exceedingly swift of foot, under ordinary 
circumstances outrunning a fleet horse : " What time she 
lifteth up herself on high, she scorneth the horse and its 
rider." On special occasions and for a short distance, its 
speed is truly marvelous, perhaps not much less than a mile 
in half a minute. Its feet appear hardly to touch the ground, 
and the length between each stride is not unfrequently twelve 
to fourteen feet. Indeed, if we are to credit the testimony^ 
of Mr. Adanson, who says he witnessed the fact in Senegal, 
such is the rapidity and muscular power of the ostrich, that, 
even with two men mounted on his back, he will outstrip an 
English horse in speed! The ostrich, moreover, is long- 
winded, if I may use the expression, so that it is a work of 
time to exhaust the bird. 

The food of the ostrich, in its wild state, consists of the 
seeds, tops, and buds of various shrubs and other plants.* 
But it is often difficult to conceive how it can manage to live 
at all, for one not unfrequently meets with it in regions ap- 
parently destitute of vegetation of any kind : 

* At the Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park, where at this moment 
several of these birds are alive, the ostrich is fed on a mixture of oats, 
barley, chaff, and cabbage, of which the respective quantities are as 
follows : oats, one pint ; barley, one pint ; chaff, half a gallon ; and 
cabbage, four pounds. 



262 OSTRICHES POLYGAMISTS THE BREEDING SEASON. 

" A region of emptiness, howling and drear, 
Which man hath abandoned from famine and fear ; 
Which the ostrich and lizard inhabit alone, 
With the twilight bat from the old hollow stone ; 
Where grass, nor herb, nor shrub take root, 
Save poisonous thorns that pierce the foot ; 
And the bitter-melon for food and drink, 
Is the pilgrim's fare by the salt lake's brink!" 

Although the ostrich is undoubtedly capable of undergo- 
ing thirst for a considerable period, yet water appears to be 
indispensable to its existence. In the dry and hot season I 
have often observed the same flock drinking almost daily. 
They swallow the water by a succession of gulps. On such 
occasions, that is, when approaching a spring, they seem 
quite stupefied. While staying at Elephant Fountain, where 
in a short time I killed eight of these magnificent birds, they 
made their appearance regularly every day about noon ; and 
although the locality afforded but indifferent shelter, they 
invariably allowed me to get within range, only retreating 
step by step. 

Like the capercali of Europe, the ostrich has a plurality 
of wives — from two to six, it is said. The breeding season 
would seem to be somewhat undefined, for I have met with 
nests in every month from June till October. Each female 
is represented as laying from twelve to sixteen eggs, and all 
in one and the same nest, which is simply a cavity scooped 
out in the sand. 

Both male and female assist in hatching the eggs, which 
are placed upright, in order, it would seem, " that the great- 
est possible number may be stowed within the space." When 
about a dozen eggs are laid, the bird, which squats astride 
over them, with its legs pointed forward, begins to sit. I 
have observed that on perceiving a man, instead of running 
away from the nest, it not unfrequently lowers its conspicu- 
ous neck till it becomes in a line with the ground, evidently 
in the hope that it may be passed unnoticed. 



INCUBATION. 253 

During the period of incubation, the ostrich, if an intruder 
approaches its nest, resorts to various artifices to induce him 
to withdraw far off. 

" One morning," says Professor Thunberg, " as I rode 
past a place where a hen-ostrich sat on her nest, the bird 
sprang up and pursued me, with a view to prevent my notic- 
ing her young ones or her eggs. Every time I turned my 
horse toward her she retreated ten or twelve paces, but as 
soon as I rode on she pursued me again." 

The period of incubation seems to vary ; but, on the av- 
erage, it may be about thirty-eight days. One or more of 
the females are said to lay meanwhile; but the supernu- 
merary eggs are placed outside the nest, and are supposed 
to serve as nourishment for the callow brood. If such real- 
ly be the case, we in this again see a wonderful provision 
of nature, inasmuch as the chicken would be unable to di- 
gest the indurated matter furnished by their too-often sterile 
haunts. 

The notion so generally entertained of the ostrich merely 
depositing her eggs in the sand, and leaving them to be vivi- 
fied by the sun, arises probably from its habit of occasionally 
quitting the nest in search of food, more especially as it gen- 
erally does so during the hottest part of the day. 

Some travelers afiirm that the ostrich not only never sits 
on her eggs after having once been handled, or even if a man 
should have passed near the nest, but that she actually de- 
stroys them ! I, for my part, can not speak to this point, 
having, whenever I found an ostrich's nest, usually plundered 
it at once, thus leaving the bird no opportunity of obeying 
so strange an instinct. 

It seems pretty certain, however, that the ostrich, as with 
many other birds, is in the habit of deserting her eggs if they 
be handled. " The slaves," says Professor Thunberg, " al- 
ways use the precaution not to take away the eggs with their 
hands (in which case the birds, who perceive it by scent, are 



254 STONES FOUND IN EGGS THE CHICKS. 

apt to quit the spot), but by means of a long stick they rake 
them out of the nest as fast as the birds lay them." 

A peculiarity in regard to the eggs of the ostrich, and, so 
far as 1 am aware, confined to the eggs of this bird alone, is 
mentioned by several African travelers. For example: 
" The farmer here likewise informed me," says the author 
just quoted, " that a stone or two is sometimes found in the 
ostrich's eggs, which is hard, white, rather flat and smooth, 
and about the size of a bean. These stones are cut and 
made into buttons, but I never had the good fortune to see 
any of them." 

Again : " In these eggs," writes Barrow, " are frequently 
discovered a number of small oval-shaped pebbles, about the 
size of a marrowfat pea, of a pale yellow color, and exceed- 
ingly hard. In one egg we found nine, and in another twelve 
of such stones." 

Notwithstanding the number of eggs laid, seldom more 
than thirty to thirty-five are hatched. Almost as soon as the 
chicks (which are about the size of pullets) have escaped from 
the shell, they are able to walk about and to follow the 
mother, on whom they are dependent for a considerable 
period. And Nature, with her usual care, has provided the 
young with a color and a covering admirably suited to the 
localities they frequent. The color is a kind of pepper-and- 
salt, harmonizing wonderfully with the variegated sand and 
gravel of the plains which they are in the habit of travers- 
ing. Indeed, when crouching under my very eyes, I have 
had the greatest difiiculty in discerning the chicks. The 
covering is neither down nor feathers, but a kind of "prickly 
external," which, no doubt, is an excellent protection against 
injury from the coarse gravel and the stunted vegetation 
among which they dwell. 

The flesh of the young ostrich is not unpalatable, but 
that of the old bird is any thing but good. To my notion, 
it tastes very much like that of the zebra. According to the 



THE FLESH EATEN BY THE ROMANS. 255 

Mosaic law, the ostrich was denounced as an unclean animal, 
and the Jews were, consequently, forbidden to eat it. The 
Arabs of the present day still adhere to this prohibition. 
Some of the native tribes of Southern Africa, however, are 
less fastidious, and partake of the flesh with great relish, 
more especially when fat. 

Though people at the present day place little or no value 
on the ostrich as an article of food, the ancient Romans, who 
were great epicures, seem to have been of a different opinion. 
We are told by Vobiscus that the pseudo-Emperor Firmus, 
"equally celebrated for his feats at the anvil and at the 
trencher, devoured, in his own imperial person, an entire 
ostrich at one sitting."* The brain of this bird was consid- 
ered a superlative delicacy ; and, like every thing else with 
that luxurious nation, it was provided on the most magnifi- 
cent scale. Thus, according to an ancient testimony, the 
Emperor Heliogabalus was served at a single feast with the 
brains of six hundred of these birds. f 

If the flesh of the ostrich be not much esteemed, its eggs, 
at all events, are prized in the highest degree by natives and 
travelers. To say nothing of their flavor, each contains as 
much as twenty-four of the eggs of the barn-door fowl, and 
weighs about three pounds. 

From the great size of the ostrich egg it might be supposed 
that one would be a sufficient meal for any man ; but I have 
known instances where two eggs have been dispatched by a 
single individual, even when mixed with a quantity of flour 
and fat. Indeed, Hans and his companion once finished five 
ostrich eggs in the course of an afternoon ! 

* Apicius gives a recipe for the best sauce. 

t The Komans, as is well known, also introduced large numbers of 
ostriches into the circus, where they were butchered by the people. 
We are told that no less than one thousand of these splendid creatures 
(together with an equal number of the stag, the fallow deer, and the 
boar tribe) were on one occasion brutally sacrificed to gratify the in^ 
satiable thirst for blood of the Roman populace. 



256 EGO-SHELLS FEATHERS. 

Even the egg-shell is of considerable value, and is an ex- 
cellent vessel for holding liquids of any kind. The Bushmen 
have hardly any other. By covering it with a light net-work, 
it may be carried slung across the saddle. Grass, wood, &c., 
serve as substitutes for corks. — 

By the monks of Dayr Antonios, we are informed that the 
Copts (by whom the eggs are looked upon as the emblem of 
watchfulness, and who suspend them in their churches) pass 
the cords of their lamps through the shell in order to prevent 
the rats from coming down and drinking the oil. 

The shell of the egg is used medicinally. The Boers, after 
reducing it to powder and mixing it with vinegar, give it to 
cattle afflicted with strangury, for which disease it is consid- 
ered a sovereign remedy. The powder itself is said to be an 
excellent preservative against blindness. 

The white wing-feathers* of the ostrich (the black ones are 
used chiefly for mourning) are a considerable article of com- 
merce. The market, however, is very fluctuating. At the 
Cape the price varies from one or two guineas sterling to as 
much as twelve for the pound, the latter sum, however, being 
only paid for very prime feathers. The thinner the quill, 
and the longer and more wavy the plume, the more it is 
prized.f Seventy to ninety feathers go to the pound. But, 
although half this number may be obtained from a single 

* The plumes, together with the eggs, of the ostrich, are said to 
have been held in much request with the ancient Egyptians. Indeed, 
they formed part of the tribute imposed on those of the conquered na- 
tions in whose country the bird abounded, and appear to have been 
used for ornaments as well as for religious purposes. "The ostrich 
feather was a symbol of the Goddess of Truth or Justice. It belonged 
also to the head-dress of Ao, was adopted by Hermes Trismegistus, 
and worn by the soldiery and the priests on certain religious festivals." 
" In Turkey, the janizary who signalized himself in arms had the priv- 
ilege of em pluming his turban, and in the kingdom of Congo the feath- 
ers, mixed with those of the peacock, are employed as the ensigns of 
war and victory." 

t Such feathers as have been plucked from the wings of the living 



OSTKICH PAKASOLS SKIN. 25? 

bird, only a small portion are of any value. In the pairing 
season, and it may be at other times, the ostrich, like the 
turkey-cock, the capercali, and many other birds, is in the 
habit of drooping its wings, so that the outer feathers trail 
on the ground, which soon destroys their beauty. The 
proper time to kill the ostrich for its plumes is shortly 
after the moulting season, or in the months of March and 
April. 

The Damaras and the Bechuanas manufacture handsome 
parasols from the black feathers of the ostrich, which serve 
as signs of mourning, or are useful for the preservation of 
the complexion. " It is a beautiful sight," says Harris, " to 
behold a savage whose skin, somewhat coarser than the hide 
of a rhinoceros, might vie in point of color with a boot, pro- 
tecting his complexion by the interposition of such an um- 
brella." 

Some of the tribes of Southern Africa are said to employ 
ostrich parasols while hunting wild animals, with a similar 
purpose to that of a Spanish bull-fighter who uses a red cloth. 
Thus, in case of a wounded beast charging a man, the latter, 
just at the moment he is about to be seized, suddenly thrusts 
the supports of the nodding plumes into the ground, and, while 
the infuriated animal is venting its rage on its supposed vic- 
tim, the native slips unperceived on one side and transfixes 
his antagonist. 

The skin of the ostrich is also said to be held in great 
request, and forms no inconsiderable article of commerce. 
"The whole defensive armor of the Nasamones, inhabitants 
of Libya, was manufactured of the birds' thick skin, which, 
even at the present day, is used as a cuirass by some of the 
Arab troops." 

The ostrich, though usually dwelling far from the haunts 
of men, occasionally approaches the homestead, and at such 

bird are said to be preferable to those obtained from the dead ostrich, 
as being less Uable to the attack of worms. 



258 HABITS OF THE OSTRICH. 

times causes the Boer considerable damage by trampling 
down and eating the grain. 

The opinions of authors and sportsmen with regard to the 
ostrich vary considerably. Some ascribe to it great stu- 
pidity, while others consider it as possessed of vivacity and 
much intelligence. Without passing a judgment, I will only 
mention that I have seen it exhibit these opposite qualities 
in no small degree. 

In a domesticated state, it is true, the ostrich appears to 
be a quiet, dull, and heavy-looking bird ; but when seen in 
its native haunts, it is restless, wary, and difficult of approach. 
From its great stature, and the prominent position of its 
eyes, its range of vision is naturally considerable, which en- 
ables it to discover danger at a considerable distance. This, 
together with the exposed localities frequented by it, probably 
accounts for the comparatively few that even the mightiest 
Nimrods of South Africa can boast of having killed. 

What may be the case with the ostrich in a wild state 
is hard to say ; but when in confinement, no bird or other 
animal demonstrates so little discrimination in the choice of 
its food, for it then swallows with avidity stones, pieces of 
wood and iron, spoons, knives, and a variety of other indi- 
gestible matters. This strange propensity and apparent ob- 
tuseness of taste obtained for the bird at an early period 
the epithet of " the iron-eating ostrich ;" 

" The estridge that will eate 
An horshowe so great 
In the steade of meat ; 
Such fervent heat 
His stomach doth freat."* 

Many amusing anecdotes are told of the strange habits of 
this bird. Once — so runs the story — when the ostrich was 
still a rare sight in Europe, a woman, on hearing of the ar- 
rival of a batch of these birds, and being anxious to obtain 
* " The Boke of Philip Sparrow." 



AN EPICURE SIMILAKITY TO THE CAMEL. 259 

a sight of them, hastily shut up her house, taking the key of 
the door in her hand. No sooner, however, had she arrived 
on the spot where the birds were kept, when one of them 
stalked gravely up to the lady, and, snatching the iron in- 
strument out of her hand, deliberately, and to her great hor- 
ror, swallowed it, actualhj shutting her out of her own house ! 

" Nothing," says Methuen, in his " Life in the Wilderness," 
when speaking of a female ostrich that came under his im- 
mediate notice, " disturbed the ostrich's digestion : dyspepsia 
was a thing ' undreamt of in its philosophy.' One day, a 
Muscovy duck brought a promising brood of ducklings into 
the world, and with maternal pride conducted them forth 
into the yard. Up, with solemn and measured stride, walk- 
ed the ostrich, and, wearing the most mild, benignant cast of 
face, swallowed them all, one after the other, like so many 
oysters, regarding the indignant hissings and bristling plu- 
mage of the hapless mother with stoical indifference." 

The ostrich is gregarious, and is met with in troops vary- 
ing from a few individuals to as many as fifty. Singularly 
enough, it is never known to associate with other birds, but, 
preferring quadrupeds, is often found in company with the 
zebra, the springbok, the gnoo, &c. Indeed, in many re- 
spects it bears a striking resemblance to four-footed animals, 
such as in its strong, jointed legs and cloven hoofs, its long, 
muscular neck, its gruff voice, the absence of the elevated 
central ridge of the breast bone, so generally characteristic 
of birds, besides other similarities already mentioned. But, 
perhaps, when compared with the camel, the affinity becomes 
still more striking. Both are "furnished with callous pro- 
tuberances on the chest and on the abdomen, on which they 
support themselves when at rest, and they both lie down in 
the same manner." In both, the feet and stomach are some- 
what similarly constructed ; and if we add to this their 
capabilities of subsisting on a scanty and stunted vegetation, 
their endurance of thirst, and their formation in general, 



260 EASILY DOMESTICATED CHASE ON HORSEBACK. 

which enables ostrich and camel to inhabit and traverse arid 
and desert regions, the resemblance is by no means so im- 
aginary as one might at first suppose. Indeed, to many of 
the nations of the East,* as well as to the Romans and the 
Greeks, the ostrich was known by the name of the camel- 
bird. 

The ostrich is easily domesticated, but is sometimes of a 
vicious disposition. The JRev. Mr. Hahn, if I remember 
rightly, told me that some of these birds, which he kept in 
confinement for a considerable period, became so mischievous 
that, lest they might injure any of the people on the station, 
he was obliged to kill them. 

Several persons have tried to breed from the tame ostrich ; 
but, to the best of my belief, all attempts have hitherto proved 
abortive. Eggs, however, have been frequently obtained, 
but the birds never showed any inclination to sit upon them. 
At the Regent's Park Gardens, moreover, repeated trials have 
been made to hatch the eggs by artificial means, but without 
success. 

The expedients resorted to in South Africa to capture the 
ostrich are various. Not unfrequently it is ridden down by 
men on horseback. Several hunters take different sides of a 
large plain, thus hemming the bird in, and chasing it back- 
ward and forward until its strength is exhausted. 

The ostrich is also at times ridden down by a single horse- 
man. Under ordinary circumstances, fleet as the horse may 
be, this would be impossible. Toward the approach of the 
rainy season, however, when the days are intolerably hot 
and oppressive, the giant bird may be seen standing motion- 
less on the plain, with wings spread and beak wide open; 
and at such times the capture may be accomplished. In- 
deed, cases have come under my notice where Namaquas, 

* Among the people of Persia and Arabia the vulgar belief is said 
to exist " that the shitur-moorg (the camel-bird) is produced by the 
union of a camel Avith a bird !" 



OSTRICH HUNTING. , 261 

after a short but spirited chase, have brought the ostrich to 
a dead stand-still. A blow on the head with a stick or a 
"shambok" is then sufficient to dispatch it. On similar 
occasions, however, horses have been known to drop down 
dead from over-exertion. 

When an ostrich finds himself observed, he will often make 
for some given point, more especially if he be hemmed in 
near a plain. He is so fully aware that safety is only to be 
, found in the open country, that he always endeavors to gain 
it. Should the sportsman understand his business, he may 
easily cut him off; but it requires a keen eye and a practiced 
hand to bring the bird down ; for on emergencies like these, 
its speed, as before said, is truly wonderful. 

The Arabs of North Africa are also accustomed to pursue 
the ostrich on horseback ; but, instead of trying to overtake 
the bird at once, it is steadily followed, even for days, with- 
out putting it to its speed, until it becomes gradually exhaust- 
ed, when it falls an easy prey to the persevering hunter.* 

In parts of Southern Africa the ostrich is run down even 
on foot. I myself have seen the Bushmen accomplish this 
exploit on the shores of Lake Ngami. They usually sur- 
round a whole troop, and with shouts and yells chase the 
terrified birds into the water, where they are, of course, 
speedily killed. " We more than once," says Harris, " fell 
in with a large party of Corannas engaged in an attempt to 
tire out an ostrich on foot, a feat which they are said some- 
times to achieve, knocking him off his legs by equaling with a 
club of rhinoceros horn fashioned like a hockey stick." 

The Bushman, however, frequently has recourse to a much 

* " When slain, the throat is opened, and a ligature being passed 
below the incision, several of the hunters raise the bird by the head 
and feet, and shake and drag him about until they obtain from the 
aperture nearly twenty pounds of a substance of mingled blood and 
fat, of the consistence of coagulated oil, which, under the denomina- 
tion of manteque, is employed in the preparation of dishes and the cure 
of various maladies." — Harrises Wild Sports. 



262 MODES OF CAPTURE. 

simpler plan of circumventing the ostrich. Having found its 
nest, he removes the eggs to a place of safety, and, ensconcing 
himself in the empty cavity, awaits the return of the bird, 
which he generally manages to dispatch with a poisoned ar- 
row. 

At other times the natives lie in wait near pools fre- 
quented by ostriches, and shoot them when they come there 
to quench their thirst. If the gun be loaded with swan-shot 
instead of ball, and one aims at the necks, several may be 
killed at a single discharge ; but this plan will, of course, 
never be adopted by the true sportsman. 

Ostriches are also not unfrequently captured in snares (sim- 
ilar to those made use of for entangling smaller species of 
antelopes), but I have quite forgotten whether by the neck 
or the leg. A long cord, having at one end a noose, is tied 
to a sapling, which is bent down, and the noose pinned to the 
ground in such a manner that when a bird treads within it 
the sapling springs back by its own natural elasticity, sus- 
pending the bird or other animal in the air, and it is only 
released from its sufferings by death. Strabo and Oppian 
make mention of snares being employed by the ancients for 
the capture of ostriches, either alluring them by stratagem 
into the toils, or driving them en masse by a brisk pursuit 
with horses and dogs. 

But the most ingenious plan of beguiling the ostrich to its 
destruction is that described by Mr. Moffat and others as 
practiced among the Bushmen. The reverend gentleman 
says: 

** A kind of flat double cushion is stuffed with straw and 
formed something like a saddle. All except the under part 
of this is covered over with feathers attached to small pegs 
and made so as to resemble the bird. The head and neck 
of an ostrich are stuffed, and a small rod introduced. The 
Bushman intending to attack game whitens his legs with any 
substance he can procure. He places the feathered saddle on 



ENEMIES OF THE OSTRICH. 263 

his shoulders, takes the bottom part of the neck in his right 
hand, and his bow and poisoned arrows in his left. Such as 
the writer has seen were most perfect mimics of the ostrich, 
and at a few hundred yards' distance it is not possible for the 
eye to detect the fraud. This human bird appears to pick 
away at the verdure, turning the head as if keeping a sharp 
look-out, shakes his feathers, now walks, and then trots till 
he gets within bow-shot ; and when the flock runs from one 
receiving an arrow, he runs too. The male ostriches will, on 
some occasions, give chase to the strange bird, when he tries 
to elude them in a way to prevent them catching his scent ; 
for when once they do, the spell is broken. Should one hap- 
pen to get too near in pursuit, he has only to run to wind- 
ward or throw oiF his saddle to avoid a stroke from a wing 
which would lay him prostrate." 

B.ut the ostrich has other enemies besides man. Beasts as 
well as birds are said to seek and devour their eggs with 
great avidity. According to Sir James Alexander (given on 
the authority of the natives about the Orange River), when 
the birds have left their nest in the middle of the day in 
search of food, "a white Egyptian vulture may be seen soar- 
ing in mid-air with a stone between his talons. Having 
carefully surveyed the ground below him, he suddenly lets 
fall the stone, and then follows it in rapid descent. Let the 
hunter run to the spot, and he will find a nest of probably a 
score of eggs, some of them broken by the vulture." 

Again, "the jackal is said to roll the eggs together to break 
them, while the hyaena pushes them off with its nose to break 
them at a distance." 

Nothing of this kind ever came under my notice, though, 
on the other hand, I have not unfrequently found the bird it- 
self destroyed by lions, panthers, wild dogs, and other beasts. 



264 SUDDEN FLOODS. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Sudden Floods. — John Allen's Sufferings. — Hans and the Author en- 
ter into Partnership. — Young Grass injurious to Cattle. — Depart 
from Walfisch Bay. — Attractive Scenery. — Troops of Lions. — Ex- 
traordinary Proceedings of Kites. — Flight of Butterflies. — Attach- 
ment of Animals to one another. — Arrival at Richterfeldt ; at Bar- 
men. — Hans's narrow^ Escape. — Self-possession. — Heavy Rains.— 
Runaway Ox ; he tosses the Author. — Depart from Barmen. — Difr 
ficulty of crossing Rivers. — Encounter great numbers of Oryxes. 

We were now in the depth of the rainy season. Rain, as 
already said, rarely falls in the neighborhood of Walfisch Bay ; 
but the gathering of heavy clouds in the eastern horizon ev- 
ery afternoon, and vivid flashes of lightning accompanied by 
distant thunder, clearly indicated that the interior of the 
country had been flooded. We had soon a proof of this in 
the sudden appearance of the long-dormant Kuisip River, 
which, now swollen to an unusual height, overflowed its 
banks, and threatened destruction to every thing that op- 
posed its course. 

This overflow was equally great in the Swakop, in the 
lower course of which our cattle were stationed under the 
charge of John Allen. One fine morning, and without the 
least previous notice, down came the torrent, and cut him off 
from the greater number of the animals, which were grazing 
on the opposite bank. He was an expert swimmer, however, 
and, boldly plunging into the swollen stream, with difficulty 
and danger succeeded in crossing. But no sooner had he 
gained the bank than the river rushed forward with tenfold 
velocity, and effectually separated him from the camp. Two 
days and a night elapsed before the water had sufficiently 
subsided to enable him to return. The sufferings of the poor 
lad meanwhile must have been very trying, for he was in a 



Allen's sufferings — hans — partnership. 265 

state of complete nudity ; and, though he had abundance of 
fuel, he had no means of lighting a fire. Lions and hyaenas, 
moreover, were numerous, and, to add to his misery, the oxen 
strayed during the night in different directions. In re-collect- 
ing them the following day, he had to cross the most rugged 
and jagged rocks, and precipices, and scorching fields of 
sand, which severely lacerated and blistered his unprotected 
feet. Most men, I venture to say, under such circumstances, 
would have left the cattle to their fate. 

As soon as the swollen Kuisip had sufficiently subsided, 
and the emaciated state of the oxen permitted, I returned 
from the Bay to Scheppmansdorf. Hans had not been idle 
during my absence. He had put the wagon in complete or- 
der, having replaced the axle-tree (which, in our journey from 
Barmen, had received a serious fracture) with a new one, and 
shortened the tires of the wheels. He had also made a new 
covering for the vehicle. I, too, had made considerable prog- 
ress with regard to the arrangements and preparations for 
my intended journey. However, on taking a more close sur- 
vey of my little property, I found that, notwithstanding Mr. 
Galton had furnished me with a variety of things, I was very 
deficient in the most important, such as articles for barter, 
presents for chiefs, instruments for taking observations, pro- 
visions, &c. As none of these were procurable by purchase 
from the vessel then in Walfisch Bay, I was placed in an awk- 
ward position. To proceed without ample supplies of all 
kinds was not advisable, nor did I much relish the idea of 
returning to the Cape — the nearest point for a refit — since 
this could only be accomplished by an overland journey of 
jnany months' duration, and the consequent loss of an entire 
season. Yet, after duly weighing the matter, I determined, 
though with no small regret, to adopt the latter course. 

I now entered into partnership with Hans, who, on his 
side, threw into the general stock goods, &c., to the amount of 
about one hundred and fifty pounds sterling. 

M 



266 DEPAKTUKE FROM SCHEPPMANSDOKF. 

It was agreed between us that we should barter our wag- 
ons, as also every article we could possibly dispense with, for 
cattle, with which we should proceed to the Cape Colony, 
where we understood live-stock always commanded a ready 
market. When we should have turned the cattle into cash, 
and provided ourselves with every thing needful, we purposed 
forthwith returning to Walfisch Bay ; I with a view of pen- 
etrating to the Lake Ngami, while Hans, in my absence, was 
to trade with the natives. Should he be successful, my share 
of the profits would materially aid me in following up my 
geographical explorations, which, I was aware, would be at- 
tended with considerable expense. 

Though our stay at Scheppmansdorf and Walfisch Bay had 
been of some duration, it was not sufficiently long to enable 
the oxen to recover their strength. They had not suffered 
actual want, but the change of pasturage, more especially 
as the grass was then young and green, instead of benefiting 
them, had rather tended to deteriorate their condition. In- 
deed, more than half of our best draft-oxen died. 

The country being at length in tolerable order for travel- 
ing, we once more, on the afternoon of the 26th of January, 
took our departure from Scheppmansdorf, keeping the same 
course as on previous occasions. Besides myself and Hans, 
our party consisted of John Allen, John St. Helena, Phillip- 
pus, Onesimus, and a few Damaras. 

The effect of the late rains began soon to show itself, for 
even the barren Naarip was in places richly carpeted with 
grass and flowers, and at every step the vegetation became 
more luxuriant. As evening, with its lengthened shadows, 
began to close upon us, the air was filled with balmy and aro-- 
matic scents. One little flower, of a milk-white color, was 
particularly sweet and attractive. I could scarcely realize 
the wonderful change in the landscape, where, less than a 
month previously, I might have exclaimed, 



TROOPS OP LIONS FLIGHTS OP KITES. 267 

" Still the same burning sun ! no cloud in heaven ! 
The hot air quivers ; and the sultry mist 
Floats o'er the desert with a show 
Of distant waters." 

The presence of herds of the beautiful oryx, the lively 
quagga, and the grotesque gnoo, which looked like 

* " Beasts of mixed and monstrous birth, 
Creations of some fabled earth," 

served further to enhance the interest of the scene. 

These were glorious times for the lions, who were exceed- 
ingly numerous. On passing Tineas and Onanis, both fa- 
mous strongholds for this animal, we started troops of them 
among the broken ground, but they invariably ran away, 
and all my efforts to get a shot at them were unavailing. 

One day, while refreshing ourselves and cattle in the midst 
of a scene like that just described, the men being busy cut- 
ting up, or " dressing," as butchers would say, two fine 
oryxes, the produce of the morning hunt, we were suddenly 
surrounded by a cloud of kites. The actions of these birds 
were most strange. Hovering within a few feet of our heads, 
they eyed us steadily for a while, and then took themselves 
off as if satisfied. Another batch would now approach so 
near that, in order to avoid coming in contact with us, they 
threw themselves on their backs, spreading out their wings 
and talons, and opening their beaks, while one or two actu- 
ally, with a swoop, snatched the food out of the hands of the 
natives. It was only after having brought down several with 
the rifle that the rest thought best to keep at a more respect- 
ful distance.* 

This day, and during the whole of the following, we en- 
countered myriads of lemon-colored butterflies. Their num- 

* Several well-known Australian explorers make mention of similar 
occurrences with this identical bird. I liave also heard that in India 
it is no unusual thing to see hawks snatch the food from a person as 
he travels alon:x. 



268 SINGULAR ATTACHMENT MRS. RATH. 

bers were so great that the sound caused by their wings re- 
sembled the distant murmuring of waves on the sea-shore. 
They always passed in the same direction as the wind blew, 
and, as numbers were constantly alighting on the flowers, 
their appearance at such times was not unlike the falling of 
leaves before a gentle autumnal breeze. 

Every day, at the halting-place, we were in thfe habit of 
training some oxen to the "pack" or the saddle. One of 
the animals particularly captivated my fancy, and I was de- 
sirous of having him well broken-in. After a little time, 
however, I learned that no person dared any longer to ap- 
proach the beast. On inquiring the cause, I found that a 
large ox had taken it under his protection, so to speak, and 
would allow no one to go near it. Whenever the servants 
attempted to catch the protege, his protector would rush at 
them furiously ; and my favorite was so well aware of this, 
that as soon as he saw any one approaching, he would run di- 
rectly to his " father," as the natives not inaptly styled the 
big ox. After having personally convinced myself of this 
singular attachment, and dreading that some serious mischief 
might ensue, I deemed it prudent to kill my poor pet. For 
many days the "father" appeared inconsolable at his loss. 
Running wildly about the herd, and smelling first at one and 
then at the other, he would moan and bellow most piteously. 
This is another proof of the strong attachment of which the 
lower animals are capable. I may add that I have frequent- 
ly seen a sheep, when the butcher has been in the act of kill- 
ing its comrade, run up to the man and butt at him most 
viciously. 

On the 5th of February we found ourselves again at Kich- 
terfeldt. Mrs. Rath, I was sorry to find, was sufiering griev- 
ously from eye-sickness, so much so that she was unable .to 
bear the least light. Indeed, not long after, the sight of one 
of her eyes was permanently injured, if not destroyed. 

Here I and Hans separated. While he went into Damara- 



ARRIVAL AT BARMEN SELF-POSSESSION. 269 

land to trade with the natives, I myself proceeded along the 
Swakop with the wagon. We had only one, the other hav- 
ing already been disposed of at Eikhams. The river was 
still running breast high, and we experienced much difficulty 
in crossing and recrossing it. One evening, just as we were 
descending the bank, from which the flood had only lately 
receded, the vehicle suddenly sank so deep in the mud as al- 
most to hide the fore wheels. Before we could extricate 
ourselves, which was a work of many hours, we were obliged 
to dig a deep trench and pave it with stones. 

In the afternoon of the 11th of February I reached Bar- 
men, where on the following day I was joined by Hans. He 
had not been very successful, and, moreover, nearly got into 
a scrape with the natives. Having one day gone some dis- 
tance in advance of his small party, he suddenly, at the turn 
of a hill, came upon some women and children, who, not- 
withstanding his friendly assurances, ran off in great fright 
to the werft, which was not far distant, screaming vociferous- 
ly. The men, thinking that they were about to be attacked 
by the Namaquas, instantly rushed to arms; and Hans, on 
coming in view of the village, unexpectedly found himself in 
the presence of several hundred Damaras, each armed with a 
huge assegai. Placing his gun against a tree, he walked 
quietly in the midst of them. His coolness so surprised and 
amazed them, that the forest of bristling spears, poised in 
the air ready to strike, were instantaneously lowered. The 
men, however, continued their yells and shouts for some 
time, and it was not until his interpreter had arrived that 
he was able to set their minds at rest as to his peaceable in- 
tentions. 

The effect often produced on savages by the self-posses- 
sion of a single European is truly wonderful. If Hans had 
evinced the smallest sign of fear or hesitation, his fate prob- 
ably would have been sealed. 

I remember, not long after this took place, to have been 



270 HEAVY EAINS RUNAWAY OX. 

journeying with fifty or sixty Damaras, accompanied only by 
my native interpreter, when the chief of the party next to 
whom I was walking turned sharply round and abruptly ac- 
costed me in the following manner: "How is it that you 
venture to go thus alone among us ? We might easily kill you 
at any time." Without a moment's hesitation I repHed, "I 
neither fear you nor any other people, and simply because I 
never injured you. You, on the other hand, are perpetually 
robbing and killing your neighbors, and, consequently, you 
have to dread the revenge of their friends and relations. Be- 
sides," I jokingly added, "it is not quite so easy as you may 
imagine to pull ' three hairs out of a lion's tail.' " This was 
exactly hitting the nail on the head ; for, if they had previ- 
ously thought my argument good, they were now amazingly 
pleased with the jest. 

We were delayed some little time at Barmen in conse- 
quence of heavy rains that now almost daily deluged the 
country. It was during this stay that the remarkable thun- 
der-storm occurred — mentioned in a preceding chapter — 
which caused such havoc among the native gardens. 

One day, while endeavoring to secure properly a young ox, 
he broke loose, and, though almost the whole village turned 
out to assist us, we were unable to recapture the animal. 
When an ox thus made off, we usually caused three or four 
of the steadiest of his comrades to be driven after him, or we 
put some good runners on his track. By the cattle or the 
men keeping up a steady pace, they would soon exhaust the 
refractory animal, and quietly bring him back to the camp. 
In this instance, Karnarute, perhaps the fleetest man in Da- 
mara-land, was sent in pursuit. 

While abiding his return I indulged in a warm bath, and, 
just as I had finished my ablutions, I observed him coming 
back with the runaway. As the animal, however, was not 
proceeding in exactly the required direction, I placed myself 
in his path for the purpose of turning him. But as he heed- 



A TOSS DEPART FROM BARMEN TORRENTS. 271 

ed not my presence, and kept his own course, the result was 
that he caught me with his horns near the ribs, and pitched 
me bodily over his back ! With the exception of being a 
good deal shaken, however, I singularly enough escaped un- 
hurt. But one of our native servants was less fortunate ; for 
on trying, like myself, to stay the ox in his headlong career, 
the poor fellow was thrown to the ground by the exasperated 
brute, who actually knelt on his body, and in all probability 
would have killed him had not the rest of the people come 
to his assistance. This accident taught us to be more care- 
ful in our future proceedings with an over-driven ox. 

On leaving Barmen, we were obliged to make a consider- 
able detour in order to avoid the " Great" Swakop, which 
continued to send down immense torrents of discolored wa- 
ter. In crossing one of its branches, known as the " Little" 
Swakop, our cattle were more than once swept away by the 
violence of the current, and our wagon had a very narrow 
escape from being capsized. When half way across the 
stream it stuck fast, and for upward of four hours all our ef- 
forts to extricate it proved ineffectual. During the whole of 
this time we were immersed up to our necks in water, which 
hourly increased. What with the velocity of the current, the 
depth of the river, and the looseness of the soil beneath, we 
were unable to obtain a firm footing, and men, oxen, and 
dogs were frequently jumbled together in the most awkward 
confusion. After almost superhuman exertions, having pre- 
viously been obliged to remove all the heavy things from the 
vehicle, we succeeded in reaching the shore in safety. Here 
again, to our dismay, we found our path barred by immense 
blocks of stone and the roughness of the ground in general 
along the bank. We had no alternative but to retrace our 
steps and recross the river at a more convenient point, which 
we successfully accomplished on the following morning, when 
the water had somewhat subsided. 

Hence we traveled about northeast, alternately in the bed 



272 THE OKTX. 

and on the banks of a tributary to the Swakop. On reach- 
ing the foot of that picturesque chain of mountains extend- 
ing in a northerly direction from Eikhams toward Schme- 
len's Hope, where it terminates rather abruptly, we encoun- 
tered great numbers of the oryx, which afforded us excellent 
sport. 



CHAPTER XXH. 

The Oiyx ; more than one Species.— Where found.— Probably known 
in Europe previous to the discovery of the Passage round the Cape 
of Good Hope.— Description of the Ory«: — Gregarious.— Speed. — 
Food. — Water not necessary to its existence. — Will face the Lion. 
— Formidable Horns.— Their Use.— Flesh.— The Chase of this 
Animal. 

Three distinct species of oryxes* are recognized by natu- 
ralists, ranging over a great extent of the more desert and 
thinly-peopled districts of Africa. In the northern part of 
the continent the type is represented by the leucoryx,t which 
strikingly resembles the oryx or gemsbok {oryx capensis)^ of 
which the accompanying drawing is an excellent represent- 
ation. 

The gemsbok (so called by the Dutch from a supposed 
resemblance to the chamois of Europe) seems restricted to 
the central and western parts of Southern Africa, few or 
none being found in its eastern portion. It was once com- 
mon within the colony, but what with its shy habits, the 

* Oi'yx capensis, oryx beisa, and oryx leucoryx. 

t The numerous engravings of the leucoryx on the sculptures of 
Egypt clearly indicate that this animal w^as well known to the nations 
inhabiting the valley of the Nile. It was chosen as an emblem, but 
whether as a good or evil symbol is uncertain, though some modern 
writers seem in favor of the former opinion. The wealthy Egyptians 
kept a great number of this antelope in a tame state, but it does not 
appear to have been considered a sacred animal. Indeed, it was in- 
discriminately sacrificed to the gods, and slaughtered for the table. 



ORYX OK GEMSBOK. 



273 




M 2 



274 THE QEMSBOK. 

constant persecution it suffers, and the advance of civiliza- 
tion, its numbers are now rapidly decreasing, and few at the 
present day are to be found within the boundaries of the 
British territory. 

Judging from some ancient coats of arms, it would really 
seem that the gemsbok was known to Europeans even before 
the Portuguese discovered the passage round the Cape of 
Good Hope.* We are told that John of Lancaster, the great 
Duke of Bedford, bore his arms supported by this animal, 
which is still on the sinister side of the heraldic shield of the 
present ducal house of Bedford. Among various embellish- 
ments, which are painted in the Bruges style of the period, 
in a Prayer-book once the property of John of Lancaster, 
are found his armorial devices, with the antelope black, 
whose straight spiral horns, although placed almost at right 
angles with the head, are evidently intended for those of the 
oryx. The animal is adorned with gilded tusks, but in other 
respects is not ill drawn. It is conjectured that this book 
was illuminated on the marriage of the Duke of Bedford with 
Anne, Princess of Burgundy. Be this as it may, it can not 
well be later than the period of his death in the year 1435. 

The gemsbok is a very remarkable animal, and, though 
possessed of many of those beautiful peculiarities which char- 
acterize antelopes, there is something anomalous about him. 
He has the mane and tail of the horse, the head and color- 
ing of the ass, and the legs and feet of the antelope. The 
horns are about three feet in length, slightly curved back- 
ward, ringed at the base, and of a shining black color. Those 
of the female are somewhat longer than the male's, but of 
more slender proportions. About one third of their entire 
length is hollow, resting on a bony protuberance. When 

* It is possible that heralds became acquainted with this animal, or 
at least with the leucoryx, through the Crusaders. Or perhaps the 
knowledge was obtained from the Romans, who, according to Martial, 
had the oryx at their games. 



COLOR SPEED POOD. 275 

both horns are perfect, and one has a side view of the ani- 
mal, they appear as one and the same, from which circum- 
stance many believe the gemsbok to be the unicorn* of 
Scripture. 

The gemsbok is a truly noble beast. The adult male 
(about the size of an ass) not unfrequently attains nearly 
four feet in height at the shoulder, and about ten in extreme 
length. The general color of the coat is a " vinous buff." 
The female is very similar in appearance, but slighter in 
form. The calves are of a reddish cream-color, which, as they 
grow up, becomes paler or whitish. They are easily tamed, 
but sometimes exhibit a vicious and treacherous disposition. 
Hans more than once domesticated them, and I myself have 
had the young alive. 

The gemsbok may be said to be gregarious in its habits ; 
for, though rarely seen together in any great number, it is 
not often met singly. 

Of all the larger quadrupeds of South Africa with which 
I can claim acquaintance, the gemsbok is undoubtedly the 
swiftest. Its speed is nearly equal to that of the horse. Un- 
less a man be a " light weight" and very well mounted, he 
has little chance of coming up with it. 

The food of the gemsbok consists of grass, succulent plants 
(often of a very acrid taste), shrubs, &c. 

As with several other animals indigenous to Southern 
Africa, water is not supposed to be essential to the existence 
of the gemsbok. Gordon Gumming, indeed, tells us " that 
it never by any chance tastes water." But this, I appre- 
hend, is a mistake ; for I have not only seen it on several 
occasions while in the very act of drinking, but perfectly well 
authenticated instances have come to my knowledge where 
whole troops of these animals have been discovered either 
dead or in a dying state near pools purposely poisoned by the 

* For some curious remarks on the unicorn, see Barrow, vol. ii., p. 
269, et seq. 



276 THE GEMSBOK AND THE LION. 

natives for the capture of wild animals. • The gemsbok, it is 
true, is found in the most dreary and desolate districts far 
distant from water : 

" A region of drought, where no river glides, 
Nor rippling brook with osier'd sides — 
With no reedy pool, nor mossy fountain, 
Nor shady tree, nor cloud-capp'd mountain." 

Nevertheless (more especially at early morn), it occasionally 
frequents the banks of periodical rivers, flanked or bordered 
by broken ground or hills ; and it is to such localities, when 
pursued, that it flies for refuge. 

Though the gemsbok has rarely, if ever, been known to 
attack man, it is quite capable of defending itself. With its 
formidable horns it can strike an object (that is, inflict 
wounds) in front as well as behind, which, from their point- 
ing backward, was hardly to be expected. When driven to 
bay by dogs, it has been seen to place its head between its 
legs (the tips of its horns, in the while, almost resting on the 
ground), and to rip open, or toss into the air, such of its as- 
sailants as have had the boldness to confront it. In this 
manner Hans told me he lost, at different times, the best dogs 
in his pack. 

In open ground, the gemsbok, it is said, will stand on the 
defensive even against the lion himself. Hans, indeed, knew 
an instance where a lion and a gemsbok were found lying 
dead in each other's grasp, the latter having, with his horns, 
transfixed his assailant ! The carcasses of the two were dis- 
covered before decomposition had taken place. The lion 
seems to have a great dread of the horns of the gemsbok; 
for, by all accounts, he rarely ventures to attack except by 
stealth. 

The horns of this animal are used by the natives for a va^ 
riety of purposes. When polished, they form strong and 
handsome walking-sticks. The flesh, which is well tasted, is 
highly prized. 



THE CHASE AKRIVAL AT EIKHAMS. 277 

" Owing to the uneven nature of the ground which the 
oryx frequents," says Gordon Gumming, " its shy and sus- 
picious disposition, and the extreme distances from water to 
which it must be followed, it is never stalked or driven to an 
ambush like other antelopes, but is hunted on horseback, and 
ridden down by a long, severe, tail-on-end chase." This is 
not exactly correct, for when on foot I have killed great 
numbers of these animals. Moreover, were the option left 
me, I would rather " stalk" them than pursue them on horse- 
back. Such was also Hans's experience, who, during his 
seven years' nomade life in Damara-land, has probably kill- 
ed more gemsboks than any hunter in Southern Africa. I 
have also known this animal to be driven into pitfalls. 

The gemsbok, as a rule, runs, like the eland, against the 
wind when pursued. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



Arrival at Eikhams. — Native Dogs ; cruelly treated. — Jonker Afrika- 
ner. — The Author visits the Bed Nation ; the bad Repute of these 
People. — The Author attacked by Ophthalmia. — The embryo Lo- 
cust. — The " flying" Locust ; its Devastations. — The Locust-bird. 
— ^Arrival at Rehoboth ; the Place described. 

In the afternoon of the 20th of February we drove in to 
Eikhams during a terrific thunder-storm, drenched to the 
skin. The deluging rain continued to descend the whole of 
the ensuing night, and the place on the following morning 
looked like a foaming torrent. In consequence of this inun- 
dation, our ox-gear, and, in short, every thing untanned, was 
completely saturated, and greatly resembled a heap of moist 
wash-leather. 

The starved native dogs had taken advantage of this cir- 
cumstance, and devoured rather more than two feet of our 
" trek-touw." The curs are of the greatest annoyance to the 
traveler in Namaqua-land, for, since the owners rarely feed 



278 NATIVE DOGS CRUEL TREATMENT. 

them, they greedily devour almost every thing they come 
across. I have had my powder-flask, "veld" shoes, and 
even rifle (the stock of which may have happened to be cov- 
ered with hide, in order to keep it from cracking) abstracted 
by them from my side during the night. A person's first 
impulse on making the discovery is to vow vengeance on the 
head of the thieves ; but, on seeing the emaciated state of the 
poor creatures, in which every rib might be counted, anger 
is turned into pity, and the uplifted arm, ready to strike the 
blow, falls to its place. 

It has been said with much truth by a missionary that 
"the Namaquas feed their dogs with stripes." From being 
constantly kicked and knocked about in the most brutal 
manner, they gradually become so accustomed to ill-treat- 
ment that flogging produces little or no effect. When struck, 
they merely shrug up their backs, open their jaws, grin in a 
ghastly manner, and, if the chastisement be continued, howl 
most piteously. This, and their skeleton appearance, are 
enough to sicken a person. 

It would be somewhat difficult to determine to what spe- 
cies of the canine race these dogs belong, or from what breed 
they originally descended. They bear some slight resem- 
blance to those I have seen at the homesteads of the Swedish 
peasants.* 

Jonker had removed his werft to some little distance from 
Eikhams. He invariably did this every year after the rains, 
in order to save the pasturage for the dry season. I rode 
over to the village, where I found nearly the whole tribe — 

* Mr. Lichten stein, when speaking of the Bushmen dogs, which 
may be considered identical with those of the Hottentots, thus writes : 
"These dogs, in their size and form, have a striking resemblance to 
the black-backed fox of Southern Africa, the jackal, as he is falsely 
called, canis mesomelas ; so that it seems very probable that the one is 
really a descendant from the other, only that the properties of the an- 
imal are, in the course of time, somewhat changed, from its having 
been tamed and trained bv the hand of man." 



STRENGTH OF JONKER's TRIBE ^TPIE RED NATION. 279 

women and children, at least — congregated. This was an 
opportunity I had long desired, since it would enable me to 
form a rough estimate of their number. Jonker and most 
of the men were absent ; but by counting the huts, and tak- 
ing the average number of individuals to each, I came to the 
conclusion that the aggregate of Namaquas capable of carry- 
ing arms did not exceed five hundred. The servants, or 
rather slaves, on the other hand, consisti^ of Bushmen, Hill- 
Damaras, and impoverished Damaras, were probably three 
or four times as numerous. By supposing each man to be 
possessed of one gun, which is perhaps below the mark, Jon- 
ker's tribe possess in round numbers two thousand firelocks. 
If their courage corresponded to their numerical strength, 
they might prove a formidable body even to Europeans, but 
this is fortunately far from being the case. 

Jonker was indebted to us several head of cattle, and we 
were accordingly anxious for his return, but no person could 
or would inform us when this was likely to happen. With 
regard to other inquiries, such as the object and motive of 
his present journey, the answers were equally unsatisfactory. 
Nevertheless, the shyness of the natives, when interrogated 
on these points, coupled with our knowledge that Jonker 
was accompanied by almost all his warriors, made us sus- 
pect that he had gone on a plundering expedition against the 
Damaras. 

After a few days' stay at Eikhams we directed our steps 
to a powerful tribe of Namaquas, known as the " Roode-Na- 
tie," or Red Nation. I had two objects in view for visiting 
these people, namely, to trade, and to learn something about 
them and their country. Every one I met, including the 
missionaries, represented them as the most barbarous and 
brutal of all the Hottentots in Great Namaqua-land. Only 
one trader had visited them, and him they treated so shame- 
fully as to discourage others from making a like attempt. I 
was determined, however, if possible, to ascertain the cause 



280 INSOLENCE OF THE CHIEF CORNELIUS. 

of their evil reputation, and to endeavor to establish friendly- 
relations with them. 

My reception was such as to corroborate the ill reports 
that had reached my ears. At the first werft we came to 
they stole a large quantity of clothing belonging to our serv- 
ants, but, after some trouble, we succeeded in recovering the 
property. At the next village they threatened to shoot us 
on the spot if we d^d not sell our things at their own terms! 
Three different times their chief sent to say that if we at- 
tempted to stir without his orders he would fire upon us. To 
this insolent message we quietly replied that he would have 
been at liberty to prevent our coming to his werft, but, with 
regard to our departure, we should consult our own conven- 
ience. Finding us determined, and that we were preparing 
to start, he soon came to terms, and in the most humble 
manner offered an explanation and apology for his rude con- 
duct, which, under the circumstances, we thought it best to 
accept. 

We were just about to turn our backs upon the Red Na- 
tion when a messenger arrived from Cornelius, the chief, 
with a civil and pressing invitation to visit him at his kraal. 
After some little hesitation, we consented, and speedily fol- 
lowed the envoy. On arriving at the werft, prettily situated 
at the foot of a hill near the banks of the Kubakop River, 
which here forced its passage through a very remarkable 
range of mountains, I immediately called the tribe together 
and reproached them for their bad behavior toward strangers. 
I moreover explained to them the impolicy of such conduct, 
and how very injurious it would prove to their own interest, 
since they were entirely dependent on the Cape Colony for 
their supplies of arms and ammunition, clothing, and other 
commodities. 

My efforts in bringing about a thorough good understand- 
ing were successful. A short time afterward, indeed, a num- 
ber of traders, encouraged by my favorable reception, visited 



BUT FEW SLAVES ATTACKED BY OPHTHALMIA. 281 

these people, and supplied their wants at the same rate as 
paid by the other Hottentot tribes residing in Great Nama- 
qua-land. Moreover, they have lately admitted a mission- 
ary among them, and it is to be hoped that through good ex- 
amples they may ultimately be civilized. 

The chief stronghold of the Red Nation is about the Ku- 
bakop, but a part of the tribe is settled on the Fish River. 
Taken as a v^^hole, they possess probably the worst portion 
of the northern part of Great Namaqua-land. They call 
themselves Kaikhous, a word signifying large ridges of hills, 
in contradistinction to Zwartboi's tribe, the name of which is 
Kharikhous, or small ridges. They look upon Jonker and 
his people, who are known as " Oerlam," not only with jeal- 
ousy, but with something akin to contempt. 

I found but few Damara slaves among the Red Nation, 
which at first struck me as singular, for their outrage on the 
Damaras was, at least, of equal extent to that perpetrated 
by the rest of the northern Namaquas. I could only explain 
this by supposing that they killed their prisoners. I after- 
ward learned that my conjecture was correct, and that, hav- 
ing surrounded a werft, they coolly shot down every soul, 
women and children not excepted. However, having lately 
discovered that the Damaras make useful drudges, they have, 
from interested motives, become less bloody-minded. 

While staying with Cornelius I was attacked by ophthal- 
mia, and for a few days suffered great agonies, but, fortunate- 
ly, before the disease had arrived at its maximum^ it took a 
favorable turn. 

Having succeeded in disposing of the greater part of our 
goods, we took leave of our host, and bent our steps toward 
Rehoboth, which was on our road to the Cape. The day 
after our departure we met with vast numbers of the larvae 
of the locust (grylhs devastator^ Lich.), commonly called by 
the Boers "voet- gangers," literally, foot -goers. In some 
places they might be seen packed in layers several inches in 



282 " VOET-GANGERS' ' LOCUSTS. 

thickness, and myriads were crushed and maimed by our 
wagon and cattle. Toward nightfall they crawled on to the 
bushes and the shrubs, many of which, owing to their weight 
and numbers, were either bowed down to the ground or broken 
short off. They were of a reddish color, with dark mark- 
ings, and, as they hung thus suspended, they looked like clus- 
ters of rich fruit. As they hopped along the path and 
among the grass, their appearance was no less curious and 
striking. 

These " voet-gangers" are justly dreaded by the colonists, 
as no obstacle seems capable of staying their progress. They 
are said to cross stagnant pools — ay, even the Orange River 
— ^by the leading multitudes throwing themselves heedlessly 
into the water, where they are drowned, thus affording the 
survivors a temporary bridge. Fires, which are lighted in 
their path in the hope of staying their course, are extinguish- 
ed by their myriads. "All human endeavors to diminish 
their numbers," says a recent author, " would appear like at- 
tempting to drain the ocean by a pump." 

As we traveled on next morning we encountered the locust 
itself, and in such masses as literally to darken the air. 

" Onward they came, a dark continuous cloud 
Of congregated myriads numberless, 
The rushing of whose wings was as the sound 
Of a broad river, headlong in its course 
Plunged from a mountain summit, or the roar 
Of a wild ocean in the autumn storm, 
Shattering its billows on a shore of rocks." 

Our wagon, or any other equally conspicuous object, could 
positively not be distinguished at the distance of one hundred 
paces. In a particular spot, within the circumference of a 
mile they had not left a particle of any green thing. The 
several columns that crossed our path in the course of the 
day must each have been many miles in length and breadth. 
The noise of their wings was very great, not unlike that 



LOCUSTS ^THEIR DEVASTATIONS. 283 

caused by a gale of wind whistling through the shrouds of a 
ship at anchor. It was interesting to witness at a distance 
'the various shapes and forms that these columns assumed, 
more especially when crossing mountain ranges. At one 
time they would rise abruptly in a compact body, as if pro- 
pelled by a strong gust of wind ; then, suddenly sinking, they 
would disperse into smaller battalions, not unlike vapors 
floating about a hill side at early morn, and when slightly 
agitated by the breeze; or they would resemble huge col- 
umns of sand or smoke, changing every minute their shape 
and evolutions. 

During their flight numbers were constantly alighting, an 
action which has not inaptly been compared to the falling of 
large snow-flakes. It is, however, not until the approach of 
night that they encamp. Woe to the spot they select as a 
resting-place ! When the rising sun again speeds their de- 
parture, localities which, on the preceding evening, were rich 
in vegetation, are bare and naked as the Sahara. " When 
a swarm alights on a garden," says Mr. Moffat, "or even 
fields, the crop for one season is destroyed. I have observed 
a field of young maize devoured in the space of two hours. 
They eat not only tobacco and every other vegetable, but also 
flannel and linen." 

From what has been said, it is evident that the husband- 
man has just reason to be appalled at the approach of this de- 
structive insect. To the poor Bushmen, " the children of the 
desert," on the other hand, who have neither herds to lose 
by famine nor corn-fields to be destroyed by their devasta- 
tions, their arrival is a cause of rejoicing. Pringle, in his 
song of the wild Bushman, has the following lines : 

"Yea, even the wasting locust-swarm, 
Which mighty nations dread. 
To me nor terror brings nor harm ; 
I make of them my bread." 

On the present occasion we found a great number of Hot- 



284 EATEN BY THE NATIVES LOCUST-BIRD. 

tentots, as also Hill-Damaras, busy collecting the locusts, 
which was done in a very simple and ingenious manner. 
Having gathered together large quantities of dry fuel, fires 
were lighted directly in their path, and as the insects passed 
over the flames, their wings were scorched, and they fell 
helplessly to the ground. 

They are also collected by cart-loads at night when they 
have retired to rest ; but this plan is occasionally attended 
with danger. "It has happened that in gathering them 
people have been bitten by venomous reptiles. On one occa- 
sion a woman had been traveling several miles with a large 
bundle of locusts on her head, when a serpent, which had 
been put into the sack with them, found its way out. The 
woman, supposing it to be a thong dangling about her shoul- 
ders, laid hold of it with her hand, and feeling that it was alive, 
instantly precipitated the bundle to the ground and fled." 

The locusts, after being partially roasted, are eaten fresh, 
or they are dried in the hot ashes, and then stored away for 
future emergences. The natives reduce them also to powder 
or meal by means of two stones or a wooden mortar, which 
powder, when mixed with water, produces a kind of soup or 
stir-about. I have tasted locusts prepared in various ways, 
but I can not say that I have found them very palatable. 
But they must contain a vast deal of nourishment, since the 
poor people thrive wonderfully on them. 

Birds of almost every description, more especially storks 
and kites, are seen devouring them greedily. 

The great enemy of the locust, however, is the locust-bird, 
or the " spring-haan vogel," as it is termed by the colonists. 
This is described as a species of thrush, about the size of a 
swallow, and is a constant attendant on the insect. It is 
even said to build its nest and rear its young in the midst of 
locusts, which, moreover, occasionally prey on each other; 
for when a locust becomes maimed or crippled, its compan- 
ions instantly pounce upon and devour it. 



INNUMERABLE SWAKMS OP LOCUSTS. 285 

The locust which causes such havoc to vegetation in Af- 
rica is said to be a different species to that common to Asia, 
where also, though perhaps not to the same extent, it com- 
mits great ravages. 

The Cape Colony has been particularly subject to this 
dreadful scourge, which is invariably followed by famine. 
The inroads of the locusts are periodical ; according to Prin- 
gle, about once every fifteen years. In 1808, after having 
laid waste a considerable portion of the country,* they dis- 
appeared, and did not return till 1824. They then remain- 
ed for several years, but in 1830 took their departure. 

The proper home of the locust is yet a mystery. Expe- 
rience only tells us that they come southward from the 
north. They rarely appear in any number except in years 
of abundance. 

Almost every day during several months we encountered 
innumerable swarms of these insects, and it was not till we 
had crossed the Orange River that we fairly lost sight of 
them. 

* Barrow, who wrote about this period, and who gives a remarkable 
account of the devastations of these insects, probably alludes to this 
very circumstance when he says, 

" The present year is the third of their continuance, and their in- 
crease has far exceeded that of a geometrical progression whose ratio 
is a million. For ten years preceding their present visit the colony 
had been entirely freed from them. Their last departure was rather 
singular. All the full-grown insects were driven into the sea by a 
tempestuous northeast wind, and were afterward cast upon the beach, 
where, it is said, they formed a bank of three or four feet high, which 
extended from the mouth of the Bosjeman's River to that of the Becka, 
a distance of near fifty English miles ; and it is asserted that when 
this mass became putrid, and the wind was at southeast, the stench 
was sensibly felt in several parts of Sneuwberg. * * =f.- The larvae 
at the same time were emigrating to the northward. The column of 
these imperfect insects passed the houses of two of our party, who as- 
sured me that it continued moving forward, without any interruption 
except by night, for more than a month." 



286 EEHOBOTH MESSRS. KLEIKSCHMIDT AND VOLOIEE. 

On the 15th of March we reached Rehoboth, where, as 
already said, there is a missionary station pertaining to the 
Bhenish Society. Here I had the pleasure of making the 
acquaintance of the Rev. Messrs. Kleinschmidt and Vollmer. 
They resided in substantial clay houses thatched with reeds. 
The church, in the erection of which ]\ir. Kleinschmidt had 
taken a very active part, is a handsome and roomy structure, 
capable of holding several hundred people. From the dis- 
proportionate breadth of the building, however, the roof 
could not sustain its own weight, and some time previously 
to my visit the greater part had fallen down. Divine serv- 
ice, nevertheless, continued to be performed in that portion 
of the building which remained uninjured. 

At this period the station was in a most flourishing con- 
dition. But, alas ! circumstances have since changed, and 
it is now a question whether the mission can continue to ex- 
ist. Should it be abandoned, ten years of unremitted labor 
and exertion will be entirely lost, and I sadly fear it will 
break the heart of its founder — the worthy and venerable 
Kleinschmidt. 

Kehoboth is well supplied with good and clear water from 
a fountain hard by. There is also a copious warm spring 
flowing from a limestone rock ; but the water is looked upon 
as unwholesome, and only made use of for cattle, washing of 
clothes, and the seasoning of timber. 

The warm spring in question is situated on rising ground, 
and consequently affords facilities for irrigation, though, un- 
fortunately, the soil is scanty and unfavorable for gardening. 
The missionaries and a few natives have by perseverance 
succeeded in fertilizing patches of ground which are tolerably ^ 
productive. Indeed, I have known a fig-tree — certainly not 
above five or six feet in height — in Mr. Klein Schmidt's gar- 
den to produce a dish of fruit every day for a space of more 
than three months. The garden vegetables which thrive best 
are pumpkins, calabashes, watermelons, &c. The wild gourd, 



I 



KETURN TO EIKHAMS ^VISIT KACHAMAHA. 287 

or melon, is also found in great abundance about Rehoboth. 
When ripe, this fruit is collected by the natives, dried, and 
stored away for seasons of scarcity. 



CHAPTER XXIV. ^ 

Return to Eikhams. — Ugly Fall. — Splendid Landscape. — Jonker's De- 
linquencies. — How to manage the Natives. — The Ondara. — It kills a 
Man. — How his Comrade revenges him. — Medical Properties of the 
Ondara. — The Cockatrice. — The Cobra di Capella. — The PufF-ad- 
der. — The Spitting Snake. — The Black Snake. — Few Denfl-r caused 
by Snakes. — Antidotes for Snake-bites. — Return to Rehoboth. 

Leaving Hans in charge of the men and cattle, I posted 
back to Eikhams, a distance of about sixty miles, in the hope 
of recovering our debt from Jonker ; but he had not yet re- 
turned. By this time, however, I received positive informa- 
tion that he and his people were engaged in a cattle-lifting 
foray. To enable me to acquire full details of their proceed- 
ings, I set off for Barmen, the head-quarter for information 
as respects Damara-land. Here fugitives arrived daily, bring- 
ing tidings of plunder and bloodshed. I felt grieved and an- 
gry at Jonker's outrageous behavior. Only a year before he 
had most solemnly promised Mr. Galton never again to mo- 
lest the Damaras. 

Hearing that Kachamaha, the most powerful chief in the 
country since the death of Kahichene, resided not far from 
Barmen, and that he had been a severe sufferer by the depre- 
dations of the Nam aquas, I determined to visit him, with a 
view of ascertaining the extent of his own and his country- 
men's losses. 

I found Kachamaha's kraal on the steep banks of a peri- 
odical stream, one of the largest tributaries of the Swakop. 
The situation was most picturesque. The wonderful luxu- 
riance of the vegetation, and extreme beauty of the landscape 
at this season, the thousands of cattle crowding the verdant 



288 SPLENDID LANDSCAPE AN UGLY FALL. 

slopes, the purling stream, which made a music strange to 

these regions — 

" A noise like of a hidden brook 
In the leafy month of June, 
That to the sleeping woods all night 
^ Singeth a quiet tune" — 

the mimosa (now in full blossom), the numerous fires on an 
evening, around which bustling and merry groups of savages 
were busily preparing their plain " veld-kost" of wild roots 
and bulbs — these, and many other signs of abundance, cheer- 
fulness, and content, infused a sensation of tranquil happiness 
which I had not experienced since my arrival in this sun- 
burnt and unhappy land. 

The result of my own and Mr. Hahn's inquiries was a 
conviction that Jonker, with his murderous horde, had de- 
stroyed in his recent foray upward of forty werfts or villages, 
and that the aggregate number of cattle carried off could not 
have been much short of ten or eleven thousand. One pow- 
erful tribe of Damaras had been completely broken up. "With 
regard to the number of people killed, we were unable to as- 
certain any thing with certainty, but we had reason to think 
that on this occasion it was not considerable. 

Having collected all the facts which I thought necessary 
to convict Jonker of his guilt, I retraced my steps to Eik- 
hams. 

Almost immediately after leaving Barmen I had a very 
ugly fall from my ox. He was plunging and kicking most 
viciously, but I succeeded for a time in keeping my seat. 
Unfortunately, however, all at once both girths gave way, 
and, after performing a summersault in the air, I came with 
a violent thump to the ground. I alighted in a sitting posi- 
tion, but, as ill luck would have it, my left leg came in con- 
tact with the stump of a tree, which inflicted a wound fully 
two inches in depth, and nearly the same in length. In this 
state I was obliged to ride upward of one hundred miles, and 



INTERVIEW WITH JONKER HIS DEFENSE. 289 

the consequence was, that by the time I reached Eehoboth, 
what with the heat of the sun and the jolting of the ox, my 
limb was alarmingly inflamed. A week's rest, however, re- 
stored me, in a degree, to health. 

On arriving near Eikhams, I observed almost every hill 
and dale covered with numerous herds of cattle, the spoils 
of the last excursion. On my arrival, I requested an imme- 
diate interview with the chief. In a day or two, accompa- 
nied by twenty of his principal men, he made his appearance. 
The meeting took place in the old church, where I had estab- 
lished myself, which gave a certain solemnity to the occasion. 
Eyebrecht and Onesimus acted as interpreters. 

Every one being duly seated and silence obtained, I thus 
addressed the chieftain : 

" Captain Jonker ! when I last saw you, I shook hands 
with you : it grieves me that I can not do so to-day ; the 
cause you must be aware of" I then proceeded boldly to 
accuse him of his late depredations in Damara-land, to which 
both he and the rest of the audience listened in the most 
profound silence. 

Having finished my harangue, the cunning chief requested 
to be allowed to speak a few words in his defense, which, of 
course, was granted. He then entered into a very long and 
cleverly concocted story of the great losses he had sustained 
at the hands of the Damaras, and that what he had now done 
was solely in self-defense, or as indemnification for robberies 
committed on himself. Whatever truth there might have 
been in his assertion as to preceding outrages, his story on 
the present occasion was one chain of falsehood, and this I 
clearly proved to him. At last, finding no further excuse, 
and perceiving that I knew all about his proceedings, he con- 
fessed that, in passing through the country, his men had cer- 
tainly "taken a few head of cattle, but," added he, "we left 
plenty after us." The manner in which he thus attempted 
to get out of the scra|)e was so ridiculous that I could not 

X 



290 HOW TO MANAGE THE NATIVES THE ONDARA. 

help smiling. After a little more parley, the conference 
broke up. 

The Namaquas, however much they may be averse to hear 
the truth, respect the man who speaks his mind boldly. For 
this very reason, I was never denied a favor or request, if in 
their power to grant it. The case was similar with Mr. Halin, 
who acted on the same principle as myself. 

In my dealings with the natives, and more especially with 
the Namaquas, I made it a rule to treat them civilly, and 
even deferentially, but I never mixed very freely with them. 
The moment a person becomes too familiar, they lose all re- 
spect for him. The only check he has on their avarice, and 
safeguard against their treachery, is to exert, as far as possi- 
ble, a certain moral influence over their minds. This he ef- 
fects to a certain extent by showing himself superior to their 
faults and vices. It might be convenient enough to imitate 
them in some respects, but, on the whole, it will prove inju- 
rious and detrimental to the traveler's interest. 

After a short stay at Eikhams, I bade adieu to Jonker, 
and set off on my return to Rehoboth. 

One morning, when crossing a periodical stream, I ob- 
served in its sandy bed the tracks of an immense serpent, 
in size, as it would seem, . not much inferior to the boa con- 
strictor. I had previously heard that such monsters inhab- 
ited this part of Africa,* but the natives declared they were 

* Large species of serpents of the python family are known to in- 
habit many parts of the African continent. Dr. Smith, in his " Zool- 
ogy of South Africa," when speaking of a certain species {python Na- 
talensis) found sparingly in the neighborhood of Natal, thus says : 

" It occasionally attains a very large size, and, according to the na- 
tives, individuals have been seen whose circumference was equal to 
that of the body of a stout man : we have ourselves seen a skin 
which measured twenty-five feet, though a portion of the tail was de- 
ficient. It feeds upon quadrupeds, and for some days after swallow- 
ing food it remains in a torpid state, and may then be easily destroy- 
ed. The South Africans, however, seldom avail themselves of these 
opportunities of ridding themselves of a reptile they view with horror, 



A SNAKE STORY. 291 

poisonous (not characteristic of this family of reptiles), and, 
consequently, feared them greatly. The Damaras call the 
serpent in question the Ondara, and said that its chief food 
was the rock-rabbit {hyrax capensis). Mr. Hahn had an op- 
portunity of seeing one of these huge creatures, which had 
been accidentally killed by the people at Rehoboth. It meas- 
ured eighteen feet in length.* 

I was told a very striking story of the Ondara, but I am 
not at all prepared to vouch for its truth. 

Two Hill-Damaras had, it seems, gone in search of honey, 
and having found a bees' nest in the cleft of a rock, one of them 
made his way through the confined aperture that led to it 
for the purpose of possessing himself of the honey-comb. But 
he had not long been thus engaged when he discovered a nar- 
row circular passage leading apparently right through the 
nest. He told this to his comrade on the outside who sug- 
gested that it was probably caused by a serpent. However, 
seeing nothing to indicate the reptile's presence, he resumed 
his labor, and, having secured the honey-comb, was about to 
withdraw from the aperture, when, to his horror, he saw a 
huge ondara making toward him. The reptile passed the 
poor fellow in the first instance, but, suddenly turning round, 
it plunged its murderous fangs into the man's body. The 
poison was of so virulent a nature as to cause almost instan- 
taneous death. The survivor, witnessing the fate of his 

as they believe that it has a certain influence over their destinies ; and 
affirm that no person has ever been known to maltreat it without 
sooner or later paying for his audacity." 

* Mr. Freeman, in " A Tour in South Africa," mentions having 
heard of one of this kind of reptiles being destroyed that actually ex- 
ceeded this size nearly three times. "This enormous serpent," says 
the reverend gentleman, "was hanging from the bough of a large 
tree, and was killed only after a desperate struggle. It measured fifty 
feet in length. This was ascertained by a number of men lying down 
at full length by its side. It took nine men to reach from the head to 
the tail, and was of prodigious girth round the body." 



292 A SNAKE WITH LEGS THE COCKATRICE. 

friend, fled precipitately. On his way home, however, and 
when his agitation had subsided, he determined to revenge 
himself on the reptile, and early the following day he return- 
ed to put his plan into execution. 

Having seen the serpent leave the aperture in question, he 
slipped unperceived into it, and quietly awaited the reptile's 
return. As soon as he observed it approaching, he coolly 
placed his open hand across the narrowest part of the pas- 
sage, and, just as the monster's eyes glared within, he grasp- 
ed it by the throat, and, by striking its head to and fro 
against the rocks on either side, soon succeeded in destroy- 
ing it. 

Many Namaquas believe that the ondara possesses certain 
medicinal virtues ; therefore, when they succeed in killing 
the reptile, its flesh is carefully preserved. If a person falls 
sick, a portion is either applied externally in the form of an 
unction, or given to the patient in a decoction. 

The natives mention a very singular little snake, about 
seven or eight inches long, possessing four distinct legs, each 
provided "vsith toes and nails like a lizard. It is difficult to 
conceive for what purpose these limbs (which are placed 
somewhat apart, and rather to the side, as in the seal) have 
been destined by nature, since they are apparently never 
used. The motion of this curious creature, which is of a 
dark slate color, is said to be that of a perfect snake. Three 
specimens were brought at different times to Mr. Hahn w^hen 
at Barmen. 

The story of the cockatrice, so common in many parts of 
the world, is also found among the Damaras ; but instead of 
crowing, or, rather, chuckling like a fowl when going to roost, 
they say it bleats like a lamb. It attacks man as well as 
beast, and its bite is considered fatal. They point to the dis- 
tant north as its proper home. In Timbo's country it is 
termed "hangara," and is said to attain to twelve feet, or 
even more, in length, with a beautifully variegated skin. On 



REPTILES NUMEROUS ^THE COBRA DI CAPELLA. 293 

its head, like the Guinea-fowl, it has a horny protuberance of 
a reddish color. It dwells chiefly in trees. Its chuckle is 
heard at nightfall ; and people, imagining that the noise pro- 
ceeds from one of their own domestic fowls that has strayed, 
hasten to drive it home. But this frequently causes their 
destruction ; for, as soon as the cockatrice perceives its vic- 
tim within reach, it darts at it with the speed of lightning ; 
and if its fangs enter the flesh, death invariably ensues. Tim- 
bo informed me that he once saw a dog belonging to his fa- 
ther thus killed. Moreover, the cockatrice, like the wild dog, 
wantonly destroys more at a time than it can consume. 

Notwithstanding the dryness of the soil and the atmos- 
phere between the Orange River and the seventeenth or 
eighteenth degrees of south latitude, reptiles are rather numer- 
ous. Indeed, some parts of Damara-land are so infested by 
them as to be almost uninhabitable. For my own part, how- 
ever, I have encountered comparatively few. I never saw 
the cobra di capella, though it does exist in these regions. 
It is common enough in the colony, and is even met with in 
the neighborhood of the Table Mountain. 

An acquaintance of mine had a remarkable escape from 
this reptile. Being passionately fond of botany, he was one 
day studying the flora of the so-called " Cape Flats." Having 
discovered a rare plant, he was stooping down to gather it, 
when up started a cobra immediately beneath his hand. My 
friend had no time to turn round, but retreated backward as 
quickly as his legs would carry him. The serpent, however, 
was fast gaining ground, and, had the chase lasted a few sec- 
onds longer, must inevitably have caught him; but just at 
this critical moment my friend stumbled over an ant-hill and 
fell to the ground on his back, and while in this position he 
saw, to his inexpressible relief, the enraged cobra dash furi- 
ously past him. 

Pringle says that this snake has been known to dart at a 
man on horseback, and ^' with such force as to overshoot its 



294 DIFFERENT SPECIES OF SNAKES. 

aim." The average length of a full-grown specimen I be- 
lieve to be about five feet. 

The puff-adder {vipera inflatd) was not uncommon in Na- 
maqua-land and Damara-land. My saddle-ox had an ex- 
ceedingly narrow escape from being bitten by one. The rep- 
tile was lying at length across the path, and I did not dis- 
cover it until the ox almost trod on it. Any serpent less 
slow in its movements must have fixed its fangs in the ani- 
mal. Another time a woman, the wife of a native servant 
of mine, found one of these horrid creatures comfortably 
sleeping in the folds of her skin apron. 

Notwithstanding its venomous character, the puff-adder, 
from its inert, heavy, and sluggish habits, is comparatively 
harmless. The only real danger arises from treading on it. 
This, however, is not always easy to avoid, since its color 
so much resembles the ground. 

When about to seize its prey or attack the enemy, the 
puff-adder is said to be unable to dart forward, but, on the 
other hand, to possess the faculty of throwing itself backward 
with unerring certainty. 

Different species of what the Dutch term " schaap-steker," 
or sheep-stinger;* "boom-slang," or tree-snake; "ringel- 
hals," or ring-throat ; " the spuig-slang," or spitting-snake ;f 
the '^ z wart-slang," or black-snake, |&c., are also occasional- 
ly met with, but none of these are very poisonous. The 
spuig-slang, however, is much dreaded by the colonist, less 
for its bite — which, though venomous, is not fatal — but from 
its peculiar habit of projecting a jet of poison to a distance 
of several feet toward the eyes of any person who may hap- 
pen to approach its haunts, the result of which is usually loss 
of sight. 

The common people at the Cape have some very singular 
notions and superstitions about the different reptiles indigen- 
ous to the Cape Colony, but more especially with regard to 

* Trimerorhinus rhombeatus. f Naia haje. J Columber canus. 



CREDULITY FEW DEATHS FROM SNAKE-BITES. 295 

the zwart-slang. Our wagon-driver told us that this snake 
is very fond of women's milk, and solemnly declared that he 
had known several instances where it has entered people's 
dwellings at night, and if it met with a sleeping mother, has 
dexterously abstracted her milk. I remember a somewhat 
similar story having been told me by the peasantry of some 
parts of Sweden, who state that to kill a snake was not 
alone a duty, but an expiatory sacrifice, since " seven sins" 
would be forgiven an individual for each serpent slain by him. 
Accordingly, in the credulity of my childish days, I was a 
perfect Thalaba ! 

Incorrect ideas of the power of the reptile family, coupled 
with superstitious dread, have no doubt served considerably 
to exaggerate the fear of snakes. Many, we know, are of 
the most venomous character ; but, as we become better ac- 
quainted with the different species, we shall find that by far 
the greater portion are harmless, or nearly so. The remark- 
ably few cases of death occurring from their bites are a cor- 
roboration of this. Moreover, like the rest of lower animals, 
the most deadly reptile will generally fly at the sight of man. 
It only exerts its formidable powers of destruction when 
about to be trampled upon or assailed. Were it otherwise, 
many of the more humid parts of our globe, where snakes 
literally swarm, would be uninhabitable. Before setting foot 
on African soil, my head was full of the dangers to which I 
should be exposed from them, either when " treading the 
maze of the jungle," or when traversing the endless sand- 
plains. Habit and experience have since taught me to re- 
gard snakes with something akin to indifference. 

Some of the antidotes in Southern Africa for the bites of 
snakes and the stings of poisonous insects are simple, singu- 
lar, and striking. 

The first point to be attended to is (if it be practicable) 
to tie a string or ligature tight above the wounded part, so 
as to prevent the venom spreading. 



296 ANTIDOTES FOR SNAKE-BITES. 

Cutting away, or applying caustic to the wounded part, 
if promptly and unhesitatingly done, is also likely to prevent 
fatal consequences. 

Europeans have usually recourse to eau cle luce, five drops 
of which is administered to the patient in a glass of water 
every ten minutes until the poison is counteracted. Eau de 
luce is also applied externally. Another very good plan is 
to scarify with a knife the wound, and then boldly to suck 
it. Care, however, must be taken that one has no sore about 
the lips or mouth. Sweet milk, oil, or spirits of hartshorn 
must then be applied to the wound. The patient should also 
be made to drink freely of sweet milk. 

In the Cape Colony, the Dutch farmers resort to a cruel 
but apparently effective plan to counteract the bad effects of 
a serpent's bite. An incision having been made in the breast 
of a living fowl, the bitten part is applied to the wound. If 
the poison be very deadly, the bird soon evinces symptoms of 
distress, " becomes drowsy, droops its head, and dies." It is 
replaced by a second, a third, and more if requisite. When, 
however, the bird no longer exhibits any of the signs just 
mentioned, the patient is considered out of danger. A frog 
similarly applied is supposed to be equally efficacious. 

A certain white bean found in some parts of the colony 
(designated, somewhat singularly, the gentleman bean) has 
also been known to cure the bites of serpents and other pois- 
onous creatures. Thus a Damara woman who had been 
stung by a scorpion was once brought to Mx. Hahn with her 
whole body very much swollen and inflamed. She was al- 
ready in such a state as to be unable to walk. He instantly 
divided one of the beans in question, and applied it to the 
wound, to which it adhered with such tenacity as only to be 
removed by force. When the virus was extracted, the bean 
dropped off of its own accord, and the woman, after a time, 
thoroughly recovered. 

" As an antidote against the bite of serpents," says Thun- 



THE SNAKE-STONE. 297 

berg, in his Travels in South Africa, " the blood of the tur- 
tle was much cried up, which, on account of this extraor- 
dinary virtue, the inhabitants dry in the form of small scales 
or membranes, and carry about them when they travel in 
this country, which swarms with this most noxious vermin. 
Whenever any one is wounded by a serpent, he takes a couple 
of pinches of the dried blood internally, and applies a little 
of it to the wound."* 

And Kolben, when speaking of the cobras (called by the 
first colonists the hair-serpent), says : 

" Some affirm that there is in the head of the hair-serpent 
a stone, which is a never failing antidote both against the 
poison of this and every other sort of serpent. I killed a 
great many hair-serpents at the Cape, and searched very 
narrowly the heads of all I killed in order to find this stone, 
but I could never discover any such thing. Perhaps it is 
only to be found at one season of the year, as are the stones 
in the heads of crawfish. 

"There are in the hands of the Cape Europeans," Kolben 
goes on to say, *i.a great manjj^. stones called serpent-stones, 
but they are artificial ones. They are brought from the East 
Indies, where they are prepared by the Brachmans, who are 
alone, it seems, possessed of the secret of the composition, 
and will not let it go out of their own body at any price. I 
am heartily sorry the secret is not in the Christian world, 
and that the Brachmans are inflexible in this particular, be- 
cause those stones are of admirable virtues. I saw one of 
them tried upon a child at the Cape, who had receiv'd a pois- 
onous bite in one of the arms, but it could not be discover'd 
from what creature. When the stone was brought, the arm 
was prodigiously swell' d and inflam'd. The stone, being ap- 
plied to the wound, stuck to it very closely, without any 
manner of bandage or support, drinking in the poison till it 

* Turtle blood is also asserted to be a good remedy against wounds 
caused by poisoned arrows. 

N2 



298 THE SNAKE-STONE. 

could receive no more, and then it dropt off. The stone 
was then laid in milk, that it might purge itself of the pois- 
on ; and it did so presently, the poison turning the milk yel- 
low. The stone, as soon as it was purg'd, was again applied 
to the wound ; and when it had drank in its dose, it was 
again laid in milk. And this was reiterated till such time 
as the stone had exhausted all the poison, after which the 
arm was quickly heal'd." 

Mr. Thunberg also tells us that the farmers in the Cape 
Colony cure the bites of serpents and of other venomous 
reptiles by means of the " slange-steen," or snake-stone. 
" It is imported," he says, " from the Indies, especially from 
Malabar, and costs several rix dollars. It is convex on one 
side, of a black color, with a pale ash-gray speck in the mid- 
dle, and tubulated with very minute pores. When thrown 
into water it causes bubbles to rise, which is a proof of its 
being genuine, as it is, also, that if put into the mouth it 
adheres to the palate. When it is applied to any part that 
has been bitten by a serpent, it sticks fast to the wound and 
extracts the poison ; as soon as it is saturated, it falls off of 
itself. If it be then put into milk, it is supposed to be puri- 
fied from the poison it had absorbed, and the milk is said to 
be turned blue by it. Frequently, however, the wound is 
scarified with a razor previously to the application of the 
stone." 

" This antidote," says Barrow, when speaking of the snake- 
stone, *' appears to be, in fact, nothing more than a piece of 
firm bone of some animal made into an oval shape, and 
burnt round the edges so as to leave a whitish spot in the 
middle. The country-people, who purchase this remedy un- 
der the idea of its being a stone taken out of the head of a 
certain species of serpent, were very much astonished on 
being told that it was only a piece of bone, and the more so 
on finding that this substance stood their test of the goodness 
of the slange-steen, which was that of throwing out bubbles 



THE author's tent TAKES FIRE. 299 

on the surface when immersed in water. To the porosity of 
the bone may be ascribed its healing qualities, if it actually 
possesses any ; for which reason, any other substance made 
up of capillary tubes, as common sponge, for instance, might 
perhaps be equally efficacious." 

To resume : Our journey to Rehoboth was unattended with 
any very remarkable incident, and we reached that place 
in safety after an absence of twenty-three days. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

The Author's Tent takes Fire. — He loses every thing but his Papers. 
— He is laid on a bed of Sickness. — Want of Medicine, &c. — Re- 
flections. — Whole Villages infected with Fever. — Abundance of 
Game. — Extraordinary Shot at an Ostrich. — A Lion breakfasts on 
his Wife. — Wonderful shooting Star. — Remarkable Mirage. — Game 
and Lions plentiful. — The Ebony-tree. — Arrival at Bethany, a 
Missionary Station. — The Trouble of a large Herd of Cattle. — A 
thirsty Man's Cogitation. — Curious Superstition. — The Damara Cat- 
tle described. — People who live entirely without Water. — Cross the 
Orange River. — Sterile Country. 

The old adage, '* Misfortunes never come singly," was ex- 
emplified in my case. The wound in my leg being now 
nearly healed, we were preparing to leave Rehoboth, when 
one evening my hut accidentally caught fire, and, being en- 
tirely constructed of dry grass and sticks, it was burnt to 
the ground before any thing of moment could be saved. By 
rushing through the flames, however, I fortunately succeeded 
in preserving the greater part of my papers and memoranda, 
which to me were invaluable. I also rescued my saddle; 
but, in so doing, my clothes took fire, and I had a very nar- 
row escape from being burnt to death. A shirt, a pair of 
trowsers, a cap, and a pair of under-done shoes, which had 
not been long enough at the fire to be thoroughly roasted, 
were all that was left me. My situation, consequently, was 
not very enviable. Through the kindness of Messrs. Klein- 



300 MISFORTUNES NEVER COME SINGLY. 

Schmidt and Vollmer, however, I was once more able to ap- 
pear decently appareled. 

But I was soon destined to experience a greater calamity. 
A few stages south of Kehoboth, which we left on the 22d 
of April, en route to the Cape, and while camped on the 
banks of the Hountop, I was attacked by intermittent fever, 
which quickly carried me to the verge of the grave. My 
sufferings and privations during this period were indeed se- 
vere. Regularly every morning at eleven o'clock I was seized 
with a violent shivering fit, which lasted three hours. Then 
came the fever, of almost as long duration, accompanied by 
racking headache and profuse perspiration. After this my 
head was tolerably free from pain, but I was so completely 
exhausted that to turn in my bed was a laborious effort. 
The climate, moreover, at this season was very trying ; for, 
while the days were moderately warm (the thermometer av- 
eraging Q>6^ at noon), the nights were piercingly cold and 
frosty. At sunrise the ice was from an eighth part of an 
inch to one inch thick. I became very sensitive to these 
changes, inasmuch as during the greater part of the illness I 
was compelled to sleep in the open air, having previously dis- 
posed of our wagons to the natives. What little medicine I 
once possessed was consumed in the recent conflagration, and 
the missionaries — owing to the fever having broken out most 
alarmingly among themselves and the natives — were unable 
to spare me any. To add to my misfortunes, no suitable food 
was procurable. .Milk and meat were my only diet. The 
latter I could not digest, and the former soon became insipid 
to my taste. The men, it is true, had once the good fortune 
to surprise an ostrich in its nest, but the eggs were too rich 
and heavy for my weak stomach. 

Up to this period my busy and roving life had left me but 
little time for serious reflection. Now, however, that the 
cares of the world no longer occupied my thoughts, I felt the 
full force of my lonely situation, During the long and sleep- 



EEFLECTIONS ALLEN SICK GAME ABUNDANT. 301 

less nights I was often seized with an indescribable sensation 
of sadness and melancholy. Death itself I did not fear ; but 
to perish in a foreign land, in the midst of strangers, far away 
from all I loved, was an idea to which I could hardly recon- 
cile myself What hand would close my eyes? what mourn- 
er would follow my cofhn ? or what friend would shed a tear 
on my lonely and distant grave ? 

I was alone ! Oh, may the reader never experience the 
full meaning of that melancholy word ! 

After upward of two months of no ordinary sufferings, my 
strong constitution prevailed, and I was convalescent; but 
several weeks elapsed before I recovered my usual health and 
vigor. 

John Allen was also seriously ill from the same malady, 
which had the character of an epidemic, for in a very short 
time it spread like wildfire throughout the length and breadth 
of Great Namaqua-land, and vast numbers of people suc- 
cumbed under it. The disease, indeed, was of so destructive 
a nature that it swept off whole villages. In one kraal in 
particular, all the inhabitants perished, and the cattle were 
left to take care of themselves. 

Fever (the cause of which is unknown) is not common in 
these parts, and makes its appearance only occasionally. 

We had pitched our tent, as already said, near the Houn- 
top River. The country thereabout was a succession of vleys 
or gulleys, then filled with excellent clear water, teeming with 
water-fowl. Quails, birds of the grouse tribe, and wood- 
pigeons, were also numerous. Of the larger animals we had 
the zebra, the springbok, the ostrich, and an occasional oryx 
and hartebeest ; but, from their being much persecuted by 
the natives, combined with nakedness of the country, they 
were extremely wary and difficult of approach. 

Game of many kinds being thus abundant, it may well be 
supposed that, as soon as my strength permitted me to carry 
a gun, I at once took the field, as well for amusement as for 



302 GOOD SPORT A LION DEVOURING A LIONESS. 

the purpose of replenishing our larder, which was but very 
ill supplied. 

One day I made a capital shot at an ostrich, which, when 
running at full speed, I brought down at the long distance 
of two hundred and thirty paces. On a previous occasion I 
killed one of these splendid birds when upward of three hund- 
red paces from me. 

Another day I had the good fortune to shoot a rhinoceros. 
He was probably a straggler, for these animals have long 
since disappeared from the part of the country where we 
were then encamped, and, indeed, are now very rarely to be 
met with south of the Kuisip E-iver. 

Early one morning one of our herdsmen came running up 
to us in great fright, and announced that a lion was devour- 
ing a lioness ! We thought at first that the man must be 
mistaken; but his story was perfectly true, and only her 
skull, the larger bones, and the skin were left. On examin- 
ing the ground more closely, the fresh remains of a young 
springbok were also discovered. We therefore conjectured 
that the lion and lioness being very hungry, and the antelope 
not proving a sufficient meal for both, they had quarreled ; 
and he, after killing his wife, had coolly eaten her also. A 
most substantial breakfast it must have been ! 

On only one other occasion have I known lions to prey on 
each other. This was when on my way to Lake Ngami. 
On a certain night we had badly wounded a lion. He re- 
treated growlingly into the bush, and immediately afterward 
a whole troop of lions rushed upon their disabled brother 
and tore him to pieces. 

A singular and interesting atmospheric phenomenon oc- 
curred at Hountop. Between seven and eight o'clock in the 
evening of the 24th of June, when reading by the side of my 
bivouac fire, I was suddenly startled by the whole atmosphere 
becoming brilliantly, nay, almost painfully illuminated. On 
turning to the quarter of the heavens whence this radiance 



SHOOTING STAR JVnRAGE. 303 

proceeded, I discovered a most magnificent shooting star, 
passing slowly in an oblique direction through space, with an 
immense tail attached to it, and emitting sparks of dazzling 
light. The fire by which I sat was exceedingly bright, and 
the moon clear and brilliant, yet they were both totally 
eclipsed by this immense body of light. Its great beauty and 
brilliancy might perhaps be best realized by saying that it 
was like a star of the second or third order when compared 
to the moon at full. 

After a time, the pasturage being nearly exhausted in the 
neighborhood of the Hountop, we removed our camp a few 
miles southward to another periodical river called the Aam- 
houp. During our stay here we observed some very strik- 
ing and singular horizontal refractions of the air. Once I 
saw an ostrich walking on the horizon line, while its double 
— clear and well defined — appeared immediately above it. 
Both the ostrich and its double, moreover, were divided into 
three different portions by as many dijfferent strata of air. 

Again : regularly every morning, for nearly a month, the 
projecting ledge of a rock was converted into the semblance 
of a splendid and embattled castle. As the atmosphere be- 
came uniformly heated, the mirage melted away into a soft, 
watery haze. 

In usual refractions the inverted image of an object gen- 
erally appears above the object itself, but occasionally the 
effect is reversed. Captain Scoresby, the well-known Arctic 
navigator, once by these means discovered his father's vessel 
the day before it actually came in sight. 

It has long puzzled the learned to account for the mirage. 
I believe, however, it is now pretty well known to arise from 
the unequal density and temperature of the lower strata of 
air. 

The abundance of good water and pasturage had enabled 
our cattle to get into excellent condition ; and as the season 
was now far advanced, and I was sufficiently well to travel, 



304 BETHANY EBONY-TKEE MR. KNUDSEN. 

we deemed it necessary to move slowly on toward the Cape 
Colony. Accordingly, on the 9th of J«ly we left our camp 
on the Aamhoup, a place where we had experienced both 
misery and happiness. 

Our course lay along and at the foot of a very picturesque 
range of table hills, averaging about one thousand feet in 
height. To the westward were also mountains of a similar 
nature, but less regular. They were of the trap formation, 
and consisted chiefly of limestone. 

Water continued for a time to be tolerably abundant, but 
pasturage began soon to fail us. Two causes were to be as- 
signed for this, namely, the devastation of the locusts, and 
the inferior quality of the soil, which became stony, inter- 
spersed here and there with ridges of sand. 

Among the latter we encountered herds of gemsboks, and 
troops of lions following on their scent. The mere sight of 
the tracks of the latter frightened a friend with whom I was 
traveling almost out of his wits. We were riding in advance 
of our cattle at the time, and it was with difficulty that I 
could prevent him from returning with precipitation. 

On the 4th of August we arrived in the neighborhood of 
another Rhenish missionary station, called Bethany. Here 
we met with the ebony- tree, of which I had only before seen 
a few stragglers in the Swakop Kiver, near the Usab gorge. 
Hence on to the Orange River this tree became more or less 
abundant, but it was stunted and gnarled. Our bivouac fires 
usually consisted of its wood. 

While Hans and the men were busy preparing our food 
and camp for the night, I strolled on to the station, which I 
found deserted by every living creature. Only a short time 
previously the Rev. Mr. Knudsen officiated here, but had been 
obliged to leave on account of some disagreement with the 
native tribe and its chief, David Christian. It had always 
been considered as inferior to most of the other missionary 
stations in this part of Africa ; but, what with the absence 



BETHANY TWICE ABANDONED BY THE MISSIONARIES. 305 

of the inhabitants, the devastation of the locust — which had 
destroyed every particle of vegetation — and the black and 
parched appearance of the soil, it now looked wild and dreary 
in the extreme. The lengthened shadows of evening threw 
an additional gloom over this once busy scene of cheerful 
industry. Oh, changes, mysterious and incomprehensible! 
Surely God, in -his infinite wisdom, will not permit the han- 
diwork of his servants, raised only by years of perseverance, 
toil, and privations, to perish without some recompense! 

Bethany, if I am not mistaken, became a scene of mission- 
ary labor as early as 1820. The enterprising and venerable 
Mr. Schmelen then officiated here, but he found it necessary, 
after a time, to abandon the place. Subsequently to his de- 
parture it remained deserted for upward of twenty years, 
when, in 1843, it was once more tenanted, and this time by 
Mr. Knudsen, who, in his turn, as seen above, was obliged to 
move off elsewhere. 

After leaving Bethany, water and pasturage became every 
day more scarce. All the vleys and pools of rain-water were 
dried up. The Koanquip River, however, long befriended us, 
as in its bed we generally managed to obtain a supply of 
grass and water for our cattle, which now amounted to sev- 
eral hundred head. 

But the labor and fatigue of watering the latter was im- 
mense. No person who has not been circumstanced as we 
were can form the least conception of the trouble, care, and 
anxiety that a large drove of cattle occasions. Perhaps, 
after having dug for twenty consecutive hours — and this I 
have done more than once — the water is found insufficient 
in quantity, or (which is almost as bad) the ground falls in, 
or the cattle themselves spoil it by their wallowing and ex- 
crement. 

These native cattle are the most troublesome and disgust- 
ing brutes possible ; for, after having spoiled the water by 
their own wildness and wantonness, they rush furiously 



306 TROUBLE ATTENDANT ON A HERD OF CATTLE. 

about, bellowing and moaning. It is enough to discourage 
the stoutest heart. 

When arriving at a place where we supposed water was 
to be found, the plan usually adopted, in order to guard 
against the cattle destroying our work, was to send them 
away to pasture. In the mean time, every available man 
went speedily to work with such implements as were pro- 
curable : spades, wooden troughs, pieces of wood or of bark, 
were indiiFerently put in requisition ; and even our hands 
were used with great effect, though not without sustaining 
injury. Having worked the aperture of sufficient depth and 
width, it was fenced in by thorn-bushes, leaving only a single 
entrance. The oxen were then sent for, and allowed to ap- 
proach singly or in greater number, according to the extent 
of the water. Sometimes, however, if the nature of the 
ground did not permit the cattle to have access to the water, 
a hollow was scooped in the earth near the edge of the pit, 
into which (or into a piece of sail-cloth, if at hand) the water 
was poured by means of small wooden pails, usually de- 
nominated " bamboos." 

Owing to this tedious process, coupled with the slowness 
with which water filters through sand, and the immense 
quantity (usually five or six bucketsful) that a thirsty ox 
will drink, and the quarrelsome disposition of the animals 
themselves, watering four hundred head of cattle will often 
occupy a whole day or night ; and, since a person is in a 
great degree dependent on his cattle, whether for food, draft, 
&c., he himself must never think of refreshment or rest until 
their wants have been provided for. 

The scarcity of water, and the uncertainty of finding it 
in these parched regions is so great, that when, after a long 
day's journey, the anxiously-looked-for pool is found to be dry, 
it is almost enough to drive a man mad, especially if he be 
a stranger to the country, and unaccustomed to traversing 
the African wilds. One's .cogitations at such times are apt 



SUPERSTITION CATTLE DESCRIBED HORNS. 307 

to be something to the following effect. " If I advance and 
do not find water within a certain period, it will be inevi- 
table destruction. To retrace my steps to the last watering- 
place is not to be thought of, as, from the distance and the 
exhausted state of the cattle, it would never be reached. 
What remains for me but to lie down and die ?" 

The common people at the Cape entertain a notion that 
cattle refrain from feeding only once within the year, name- 
ly, on Christmas eve. Then, it is affirmed, they fall on their 
knees, and with closed mouths and half-shut eyes (a sign of 
placidity), silently thank the Giver of all good things for the 
grass and water they have enjoyed during the past twelve 
months. They say, moreover, that a person may witness 
this act of devotion by keeping well to leeward and out of 
sight of the animals.* 

Our cattle consisted chiefly of the Damara breed, which, 
so far as I am aware, differs widely from any found in Eu- 
rope. They are big-boned, but not particularly weighty; 
their legs are slender, and they have small, hard, and dura- 
ble feet. The hair on the body is short, smooth, and glossy, 
and the extremity of the tail is adorned with a tuft of long, 
bushy hair, nearly touching the ground. This tuft consti- 
tutes the chief ornament of the Damara assegai. 

But the horns are the most remarkable feature of the Da- 
mara cattle. They are usually placed on the head at an an- 
gle of from forty-five to ninety degrees, and are at times 
beautifully arched and twisted, but rarely bent inward. They 
are of an incredible length, and one often meets with oxen 
the tips of whose horns are from seven to eight feet apart. 

* This superstition is common in Devonshire, in the western parts 
of which it used, till lately, to be affirmed, "that at twelve o'clock at 
night on Christmas eve, the oxen in their stalls are always found on 
their knees in an attitude of devotion ; and that, since the alteration 
of the style, they continue to do this only on the eve of old Christmas 
day." Bravo, oxen ! — (^See Brand's ^^ Popular Antiquities") 



308 



ENORMOUS HOKNS OF CATTLE. 



The Bechuana cattle (of greater bulk and stouter propor- 
tions) seem to surpass the Damara cattle in this respect. 
Among many other curious and interesting objects, there is 
now in the collection of Colonel Thomas Steel, of Upper 
Brook Street, a perfect cranium of a young Bechuana ox,* 




8KU1JL OF A BECHUANA OX. 

of which the wood-cut is a fair representation. The follow- 
ing are its dimensions : 

Entire length of liorns from tip to tip along the cun^e... 13 ft. 5 in. 

Distance (straight) between the tips of the horns 8 8i 

Circumference of horns at the root 1 62^ 

Breadth of cranium between the eyes 9^ 

Length " " " 2 2 

But I have been told on good authority that in some parts 
of Africa horns of cattle are found greatly to exceed the above 
dimensions. The horns, indeed, are of so enormous a size 
as serioysly to inconvenience the animal. Their length and 
weight have been kno^vn to be so great as to twist the head 
to one side, one of the horns dragging on the ground, while 
the other pointed upward. 

The Damaras prize their oxen in proportion to the size of 

* This remarkable beast was a long time in the possession of Mr. 
^swell, who, I believe, intended to bring it alive to England, but un- 
avoidable circumstances prevented this distinguished traveler from car- 
rying his plan into execution. 



ARTIFICIAL CALF CATTLE VALUED NEXT TO WOMEN. 309 

their horns. Some African tribes take much pains in form- 
ing them of a certain shape. This is effected either by saw- 
ing off the tips, splitting them, bending them forcibly when 
yet tender, and so forth. 

The Damara cow is of slender proportions and very wild. 
Before she can be milked, it is always needful to lash her 
head to a tree, in like manner as the Laplanders treat their 
reindeer, or to tie her hind legs together. The best cow 
rarely gives more than two or three pints of milk daily, and, 
should her calf die or be taken from her, she absolutely re- 
fuses to give any at all, in which case it is necessary to re- 
sort to artificial means. One plan is to stuff a calf-skin with 
hay or grass, and afterward to place it on the ground for the 
cow to slobber over. Sometimes the adoption of the latter 
expedient gives rise to ludicrous scenes ; for the cow, when 
tenderly caressing her supposed offspring, has all at once got 
scent of the hay or grass, when, thrusting her snout into the 
skin, she has greedily devoured its contents ! 

The Damaras, as well as other nations, take great delight 
in having whole droves of cattle of the same color. The 
Namaquas have a perfect mania for a uniform team. Bright 
brown is the favorite color ; and I myself have always found 
beasts of this hue to be the strongest and most generally ser- 
viceable. Dark brown oxen with a yellowish streak along 
the back — by the Dutch designated "geel-bak" — are also 
usually stout and enduring. Yellow, and more especially 
white, oxen are considered weak, and unable to bear much 
fatigue or hardship. 

The Damaras, as with almost every other people of South- 
ern Africa, value their cattle next to their women, and take 
a pride in possessing animals that look high bred. The ox, 
in fact, forms the chief theme of the songs of the Damaras. 
They, moreover, rarely or never make use of a handsome 
animal as a beast of burden, but employ quiet, ugly bulls for 
such purposes. These have a buffalo look about them, and 
their horns^ moreover, rarely attain to any size. 



310 MEN AND CATTLE LIVE WITHOUT WATKR. 

From their quick step, good feet, and enduring powers, the 
Damara cattle are much prized by the farmers of the Cape 
Colony. The only drawback is their wildness and immense 
size of their horns, which they sometimes use with fatal effect. 

The day before we reached the Orange River we fell in 
with a kraal of Hottentots, whom, to our great surprise, we 
found living in a locality altogether destitute of water! The 
milk of their cows and goats supplied its place. Their cat- 
tle, moreover, never obtained water, but found a substitute 
in a kind of ice-plant (mesembryanthemum), of an exceedingly 
succulent nature, which abounds in these regions. But our 
own oxen, not accustomed to such diet, would rarely or never 
touch it. Until I had actually convinced myself — as I had 
often the opportunity of doing at an after period — that men 
and beasts could live entirely without water, I should, per- 
haps, have had some difficulty in realizing this singular fact. 

On the 21st of August we effected the passage of the 
Orange River in safety at what is called the Zendlings Drift, 
or the missionary ford. We had no boat, and those of the 
men who could not swim were obliged to lay hold of the tails 
of the cattle, to which they pertinaciously clung. On gain- 
ing the opposite bank, which was very steep, the oxen, in 
climbing it, entirely submerged their charge, to the great de- 
light and amusement of such of their companions as had 
landed at a more convenient point. 

The Orange River was at this season almost at its lowest, 
yet it was a noble and highly picturesque stream. Looking 
eastward, its aspect was particularly imposing. Its breadth 
at this point might have been from two to three hundred 
yards. The banks were on both sides lined with evergreen 
thorns, drooping willows, ebony-trees, &c. ; and the water 
forced its passage through a bold and striking gorge, over- 
hung by precipices from two to three thousand feet high. 
But the country all round was desolate. The hills, which at 
some distant period had evidently been subject to volcanic 



STERILE COUNTRY GREAT NAMAQUA-LAND. 311 

eruptions, had a sunburnt and crumbling appearance, and 
were almost wholly destitute of vegetation. The soil in the 
neighborhood of the mountains consisted of pure sand, and 
was covered with low and succulent shrubs, from which oui 
cattle, hitherto accustomed to revel in the almost boundless, 
savannas of Damara-land, turned with disgust. The coun- 
try for several weeks' journey in advance of us was reprfr 
sented as of a similar nature. 

We began now seriously to tremble for the poor beasts, 
which had already lost flesh. Upward of two months' trav- 
eling had to be performed before we could reach our desti- 
nation. 

With the exception of that portion of Namaqua-land and 
Damara-land bordering on the coast, the part of the country 
I speak of has the most inauspicious appearance I ever saw. 
Its sterility arises probably from being situated near the limit, 
not only of the "thunder-rains," but of the regular rains 
(" mist-rains," as they are called in the colony), and the con- 
sequent frequency of great droughts. Indeed, scarcely any 
rain falls here in some years. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 



Great Namaqua-land. — Its Boundaries and Extent. — Its Rivers. — ^Na- 
ture of the Country.— Vegetation and Climate. — Geological Struc- 
ture. — Minerals. — "Topnaars" and " Oerlams." — Houses. — My- 
thology and Religion. — Tumuli. — Wonderful Rock. — Curious Le- 
gend of the Hare. — Coming of Age. — The Witch-doctor. — Amu- 
lets. — Superstitions. — A Namaqua's notion of the Sun. — Marriage. 
— Polygamy. — Children. — Barbarous Practice. — Longevity. — Sin- 
gular Customs.- — Ornaments. — Tattooing. — Arms. — Idle Habits. — 
Fond of Amusements. — Music and Dancing. — Spirits. — Mead. — 
Domestic Animals. 

Having now brought my narrative to a period when I am 
about to leave Great Namaqua-land, it may be well to say a 



312 GREAT NAMAQUA-LAND. 

few words of this country, its inhabitants, their manners and 
customs, &c. 

The portion of Africa known as Namaqua-land is divided 
into two distinct parts, viz., Little and Great Namaqua-land. 
By the former is understood the territory (now British) be- 
tween the Orange River and about the 31st degree of lati- 
tude on the south ; by the latter, the country between the 
last-named river and Damara-land, its eastern boundary be- 
ing the Kalahari desert, while on the west it is washed by 
the billows of the Atlantic Ocean. 

Great Namaqua-land covers a surface of no less than one 
hundred and twelve thousand geographical square miles,* 
with probably a population of scarcely thirty thousand souls, 
or less than four persons to the square mile. Excepting the 
great Sahara itself, there is, perhaps, not a country in the 
world, of equal extent, so scantily peopled, so destitute of 
water, so dismal, and so generally barren and useless. It is 
truly a " region of curses." 

The coast-line of Great Namaqua-land, like that of Dama- 
ra-land, consists of a dreary sandy waste, extending in places 
from thirty to forty miles into the interior — in others to a 
hundred or more — and is, wdth very few exceptions, unin- 
habitable. 

Some of the rivers, such as the Kuisip, and others of little 
importance, empty themselves into the Atlantic; but the 
larger portion run in an easterly direction, and are chiefly 
tributaries to the Fish River. This remarkable water-course, 
which takes its rise in the most northerly limit of Great 
Namaqua-land, finally joins the Orange River about three or 
four days' journey from where the latter finds an outlet into 
the sea, thus intersecting the country throughout its entire 
length. 

Great Namaqua-land is characterized by immense sandy 

* Or about 148,000 English square miles. The area of Damara-land 
is about 29,000 English square miles. 



CLIMATE GEOLOGICAL STKUCTUKE. 313 

plains, traversed by hill and rock, and thickly strewn with 
quartz, which reflects a dazzling and perplexing light. Two 
to three days' journey south of Rehoboth, the dense thorny 
bush, so peculiar to Damara-land, ceases, and with the ex- 
ception of a few mimosas along the water-courses, and occa- 
sional ebony-trees, the arboreous vegetation is scanty and 
stunted. For more than six months of the year it is scorched 
by an almost vertical sun. The rains, which are always 
accompanied by heavy thunder, are periodical and very par- 
tial. In its northern portion, the wet season sets in at the 
same time as in Damara-land ; but in a southerly direction, 
the rains are later and more uncertain ; and, as has been said 
in the last chapter, little or none falls about the lower course 
of the Orange River and the neighborhood. The springs 
(which are often either hot or salt) are indifferent and scantily 
distributed. The periodical water-courses, therefore, afford 
the chief supply. 

The Namaquas, as well as the Damaras, are loud in their 
complaints that less rain falls now than half a century back* 
Indeed, the numerous ancient beds of rivers in the vast sandy 
plains, and the deeply-scored slopes and sides of the now 
" sunburnt" and crumbling hills, clearly indicate that almost 
the whole country north of the Orange River, as far as Euro- 
peans have penetrated from the Cape side, has at some 
former period been much more abundantly watered. In 
some parts, the destruction of forests, which are well known 
to retain and condense vapory particles, may partly account 
for such atmospheric changes ; but in this region we must 
look for other causes. 

In a geological point of view. Great Namaqua-land pre- 
sents many interesting features. Between the Orange River 
and Walfisch Bay, beginning at the sea-side, three distinct 
terrace-like risings of the country are recognized. Besides 
the granite, which is the prevailing rock, great masses of 
quartz are met with either, as aforesaid, scattered over its 

O 



314 MINERALS TOPNAARS AND OERLAMS. 

surface, or filling up the large gaps and fissures occasioned 
by ancient eruptions. Iron and sandstone, and slate forma- 
tions, are also not uncommon. 

At some remote period this land must have been subject- 
ed to volcanic agencies ; and though not one of these has 
taken place in the memory of the present generation, rum- 
bling noises underground and tremors of the earth are of fre- 
quent occurrence. The existence of hot water springs ; the 
confusion of the fantastically and curiously-shaped hills — 
" the strata bending and dipping from the perpendicular to 
the horizontal, and in others extending in a straight line 
from one hill to another" — bear ample testimony to its vol- 
canic nature. The presence, moreover, of vast quantities of 
minerals is a further evidence of its igneous character. Tin, 
lead, iron, and copper ore is often met with. I have had 
specimens of the latter mineral in my possession containing 
from forty to ninety per cent, of pure metal. At eight to ten 
days' journey with " ox wagon," east of the missionary 
station, Bethany, meteoric iron is found in apparently inex- 
haustible quantities. I have seen lumps, of several hundred 
weights, brought from thence, so pure and malleable that the 
natives converted it into balls for their guns, &c., without any 
previous application of fire. As Great Namaqua-land be- 
comes better known, it is more than probable that it will be 
found equally prolific in minerals — if not more so — as Little 
Namaqua-land, where, of late, extensive and valuable mines 
have been brought to light. 

The term Hottentot and Namaqua have probably origin- 
ated with Europeans, since neither is found in the native 
language. The Hottentots of these regions may be divided 
into two great branches, viz., the " Topnaars" and the " Oer- 
lams." With the latter is generally understood the new- 
comers and the semi-civilized ; but the real signification of 
the term is doubtful. Some conjecture the " Oerlam" to be 
a corruption of the Dutch word " o'erland," or overland — 



TRIBES HOUSES. 315 

that is, people who have come over land. Be this as it may, 
the Nam aqua-Hottentots consider it as a compliment to be 
addressed as " Oerlam." " Topnaar," on the other hand, sig- 
nifies the First, the Highest, the Great, or those vrho origin- 
ally inhabited Great Namaqua-land, and they view with con- 
siderable jealousy the progress and superiority of the " Oer- 
lams," whom they justly consider as intruders. 

The northern Namaquas are divided into numerous tribes, 
each under petty chiefs. The principal of these are Jonker 
Afrikaner, Cornelius, Amral, Zwartbooi, Jan Boois, Will- 
iam Frg,nsman, Paul Goliath, David Christian, and Bondel 
Zwartz. 

The Namaquas dwell in small round huts, made on the 
same principle as those of the Damaras, and covered with 
mats composed of rushes, which are prepared in the follow- 
ing manner ; A quantity of the inner bark of the mimosa is 
collected and dried. When wanted for immediate use, the 
required portion is put into hot water and softened. Each 
member of the family then fills his mouth with as much of 
the fibre as it can hold, and chews it until it becomes quite 
pliable, when it is at once converted into strings by the rude 
process of twisting it on the naked leg. A large quantity is 
in this manner manufactured in an incredibly short time. 
The rushes are then cut to the desired length, and laid out 
on the ground singly, and in a row, when holes are made, at 
intervals of about two inches, through each rush, and the 
string in question passed through them by means of a bone 
or thorn needle. The ends of the rushes, however, are se- 
cured more strongly by back-stitches. These mats serve a 
double purpose. In warm weather they are open and airy, 
while, being of a porous texture, a shower closes them, and 
after a while they become proof against the most deluging 
rains. 

When they remove their habitations, these mattings and 
the frame-work of the hut, which consists of semicircular 



316 MYTHOLOGY EELIGION. 

boughs, are packed on oxen. Their household utensils, such 
as calabashes, milk-pails, pots, &c., are suspended to the 
boughs, and in the midst of all this confusion is often seated 
the good dame of the house, surrounded by her promising 
offspring. 

It has been asserted by travelers and others that the 
Namaquas have not the slightest idea of a Superior Being, 
or of a life hereafter. Yet they believe in Heitjeebib, or 
Heitjekobib, whom they consider to have the power to grant 
or withhold them success and prosperity. But whether Heit- 
jeebib is a deity, a goblin, or merely a deified ancestor, I 
shall not presume to say. At all events, they affirm he 
exists in the graves of all deceased people ; and whenever a 
Hottentot passes a burial-place, he invariably throws a stone, 
a bush, or other token of offering and affection on the tomb, 
pronouncing the name of Heitjeebib, and invoking his bless- 
ing and protection in his undertakings. From being thus 
constantly added to, these heaps often attain a great size. 
They are found throughout the country (I have observed 
them even in Damara-land), and frequently in situations per- 
fectly " stoneless," from which may be inferred that the na- 
^ves carry the materials a long distance. Captain Harris 
mentions having seen similar heaps among the Matabili, but 
was unable to account for their presence. The Hottentots 
have an indistinct notion that they came from an easterly 
direction, and it is possible that the stone tumuli found by 
the traveler may have something to do with this tradition. 

The natives in these parts have a strange tale of a rock in 
which the tracks of all the different animals indigenous to 
the country are distinctly visible ; moreover, that man and 
beast lived here together in great amity ; but one day, from 
some unknown cause, their Deity appeared unexpectedly and 
dispersed them. I never had the good fortune to obtain a 
sight of this marvelous rock. Mr. Moffat, who makes men- 
tion of a similar story prevailing among the Bechuanas, was 



CURIOUS LEGEND. 317 

equally unsuccessful. " Once I heard a man of influence," 
says the rev3rend gentleman, " telling his story on the sub- 
ject. I, of course, could not say that I believed the won- 
drous tale, but very mildly hinted that he might be misin- 
formed, on which he swore, by his ancestors and his king, 
that he had visited the spot, and paid a tax to see the won- 
der ; and that, consequently, his testimony was indubitable." 

The Namaquas have the following singular superstition 
with regard to the hare, which no adult is allowed to eat. 
The legend involves the sublime Christian doctrine of im- 
mortality. 

Once upon a time the moon called the hare, and com- 
manded him to convey to man the following message : " As 
I die and am born again,* so you shall die and be again 
alive." The hare hastened to obey ; but instead of saying, 
" As I die and am born again," he said, "As I die and am 
not born again." On his return, the moon inquired what 
words he had conveyed to mankind ; and on being informed, 
the luminary exclaimed, "What! have you said to man, 
' As I die and am not born again, so you shall die and not 
be again alive !' " And with this he hurled a stick at the 
hare with such force as to split open his lips, which is the 
cause of the peculiar formation of this animal's mouth. The 
hare quickly betook himself to flight, and is said to be flying 
to the present day. The old Namaquas used to say, "We 
are still enraged with the hare, because he has brought such 
a bad message, and we will not eat him." 

On the occasion of a youth coming of age, or, rather, when 
becoming a "man," there is great rejoicing. From that day 
forward he is forbidden to eat the hare, or even to come in 
contact with the fire where this animal has been prepared. 
Should he transgress this command, he is not unfrequently 
banished from his werft, though, on paying a fine, he may 

* "When speaking of the moon, the Namaquas do not say, like our- 
selves, that it rises and sets, but that " it dies and is born again." 



318 THE WITCH-DOCTOR. 

again be admitted to the community. He is, moreover, no 
longer permitted to "suck the goats."* 

The Namaquas, like almost all nations who are sunk in 
barbarism, have great faith in sorcery, and male and female 
witch-doctors equally play conspicuous parts. These im- 
postors are supposed to have the power to procure rain, to 
restore the sick to health, to discover the cause of a person's 
death, and to perform other miracles. They are crafty crea- 
tures, and know how to take advantage of the popular igno- 
rance. Even civilized men have been deceived by their wiles. 
Their principal stipulation before they exercise any of their 
arts is to have some animal slaughtered, which they prescribe 
according to their fancy and to the wealth of their patients. 
Mr. Moffat tells us that a stout ox might be a cure for a 
slight cold in a chieftain, while a kid would be a remedy for 
a fever among the poor, from whom there could be no chance 
of obtaining any thing greater. 

The Nam aqua witch-doctor is called kaiaoh^ or kaiaobs if 
a woman. On being called to the sick-bed, after having ex- 
amined the patient, he or she generally declares that the ail- 
ment is caused by a great snake (toros) having fired an ar- 
row into the stomach. The sorcerer operates by feeling this 
part of the body, and by a good squeezing endeavors to coax 
the illness away. Another approved plan is to make a small 
incision on the body about the place where the cause of the 
disease is supposed to lurk, and to suck it out. The produc- 
tion of a snake, a frog, an insect, or the like, is frequently 
the result. Eyebrecht solemnly declared that he once was 
an eye-witness to such an operation on a woman at Jonker's 
place. When the witch-doctor arrived, a sheep was killed, 
and the sinews of the back were cut out and rolled up into a 
small ball, which the patient was made to swallow, the re- 

* It is a practice among the young Namaquas to hold a goat be- 
tween the knees, and draw the milk directly from the teats of the an- 
imal into their own mouths. 



WITCH-DOCTORS AMULETS. 319 

mainder of the animal, of course, being appropriated to the 
sorcerer's own stomach. A few days afterward the wizard 
returned, and cut some small holes in the abdomen of the pa- 
tient, on which a small snake escaped, then a lizard, numer- 
ous other animals following. 

To become a witch-doctor of any importance, a person is 
required to be instructed by one previously well versed in the 
mysteries of the black art. He must begin his lessons by 
swallowing animal poison, be bitten by venomous reptiles, or 
have poison inoculated into his body. A cap, a handker- 
chief, or any sort of clothing worn by such a person until it 
has become perfectly saturated with filth is considered the 
most infallible cure for all kinds of diseases, poisonous bites, 
&c- On emergences a corner of this treasure is washed, and 
the dirty water thus produced is given to the patient, beast 
or man, to drink- The chief Amral assured me that he 
possessed a cap of this kind with which he had effected innu- 
merable cures. " It is sure," he said, " to cause relief when 
nothing else is of any avail." The witch-doctors have also 
other disgusting methods of effecting cures. 

Like most of the tribes in Southern Africa, the Nama- 
quas have great faith in amulets, which consist, as usual, 
of the teeth and claws of lions, hyaenas, and other wild 
beasts, pieces of wood, bone, dried flesh and fat, roots of 
plants, &c. 

When a chief died, it was formerly customary to call the 
whole tribe together, and to give a grand feast in honor of 
the occasion. The fat, and all the choice parts of the slaugh- 
tered animals, were preserved for the son of the deceased, who 
was to succeed his father in the chieftainship.* The raw fat 
was placed on his head, and worn until it became dry, when 

* After a great hunt, it was also the custom to reserve for the chief 
the best pieces of the different kinds of game which had been killed, 
such as the breast of the eland, the hump of the rhinoceros, and so 
forth, the rest being divided among the tribe. 



320 TRANSFORMATION. 

it was transferred to some crone, who carefully preserved it 
as a much-prized amulet. 

During his journey ings in Great Namaqua-land, Sir James 
Alexander was told by the natives that the Bushwomen have 
it in their power to change their forms into lions, hyaenas, 
and other beasts of prey. The following legend illustrates 
this superstition : 

" Once on a time, a certain Namaqua was traveling in 
company with a Bushwoman carrying a child on her back. 
They had proceeded some distance on their journey, when 
a troop of wild horses (zebras) appeared, and the man said 
to the woman, ' I am hungry ; and as I know you can turn 
yourself into a lion, do so now, and catch us a wild horse, 
that we may eat.' 

"The woman answered, 'You'll be afraid.* 

" * No, no,' said the man. ' I am afraid of dying of hun- 
ger, but not of you.' 

"While he was speaking, hair began to appear at the 
back of the woman's neck, her nails assumed the appearance 
of claws, and her features altered. She set down the child. 

" The man, alarmed at the change, climbed a tree close by, 
while the woman glared at him fearfully ; and, going to one 
side, she threw off her skin petticoat, when a perfect lion 
rushed out into the plain. It bounded and crept among the 
bushes toward the wild horses ; and, springing on one of 
them, it fell, and the lion lapped its blood. The lion then 
came back to where the child was crying, and the man called 
from the tree, * Enough ! enough ! Don't hurt me. Put 
off your lion's shape. I'll never ask to see this again.' 

" The lion looked at him and growled. ' I'll remain here 
till I die,' exclaimed the man, 'if you don't become a woman 
again.' The mane and tail began to disappear, the lion went 
toward the bush where the skin petticoat lay : it was slipped 
on, and the woman, in her proper shape, took up the child. 
The man descended, partook of the horse's flesh, but never 
again asked the woman to catch game for hira." 



ASTEONOMY MARRIAGE. 321 

On the death of a person, some of his cattle (the richer 
the deceased, the more numerous the animals) are killed, and 
a banquet is given to his relations and friends. On these oc- 
casions the poor beasts are suffocated. Ordinarily, and when 
intended for food alone, animals are dispatched by some sharp- 
cutting instrument. The flesh, never eaten raw, and not oft- 
en when roasted, is usually served up when boiled. 

The ideas of a Namaqua as to the formation and rotary 
motion of the heavenly bodies, if not very profound, are un- 
questionably very original. " The sun, by some of the peo- 
ple of this benighted land," says an enterprising traveler, "is 
considered to be a mass of fat, which descends nightly to the 
sea, where it is laid hold of by the chief of a white man's 
ship, who cuts away a portion of tallow, and, giving the rest 
a kick, it bounds away, sinks under the wave, goes round 
below, and then comes up again in the east." 

When a man feels a desire to enter the matrimonial state, 
he goes to the father of the woman on whom he has settled 
his affection, and demands her in marriage. If the parent be 
favorable to the match, the affair may be considered as set- 
tled. An ox or a cow is then killed outside the door of the 
bride's home, and the ceremony is over. 

Polygamy is practiced without limitation. If a man be- 
come tired of his wife, he unceremoniously returns her to 
the parental roof, and however much she (or the parents) 
may object to so summary a proceeding, there is no remedy. 

Widows are left to shift for themselves. 

They neither cradle nor circumcise their children, which 
they are said to name in the following singular manner. No 
man nor woman has more than one name, which is retained 
even after marriage. If a daughter be born, she assumes the 
name of her father, while a boy would be called after his 
mother, with very little alteration. I never could under- 
stand the reason of this. 

Within the memory of the present generation, a barbarous 

02 



322 BAEBABOUS PRACTICE NAM AQUAS LONG-LIVED. 

practice prevailed of leaving old and disabled people to per- 
ish fai' away from the dwellings of men. A slight fence was 
raised round the "living-dead," and a small supply of water 
was placed at his side, when he was abandoned to his fate. 
Mr. Moffat, during his wanderings in Namaqua-land, saw one 
of these wretches (a woman), and on inquiring the cause of 
her being thus deserted, she replied, " I am old, you see, and 
no longer able to serve them (referring to her grown-up chil- 
dren). When they kill game, I am too feeble to help in car- 
rying home the flesh ; I am incapable of gathering wood to 
make fire ; and I can not carry their children on my back, as 
I used to do." 

The Namaquas may be said to be long-lived, for individ- 
uals have been known to reach the advanced age of ninety, 
and even one hundred years. This is the more remarkable, 
when the very wretched life they lead is taken into consid- 
eration. 

The Namaquas have a singular custom both among them- 
selves and with regard to strangers, which consists in the 
ado2:)tion of a " father" and a " mother." This practice is so 
widely observed, that few who come in contact with the sev- 
eral tribes are able to avoid it. Almost every European 
trader, indeed, possesses in each village which he is in the 
habit of frequenting either a so-called "father" or " mother." 
But the custom is a most inconvenient one, to the traveler at 
least, for he may be pretty sure that, as soon as this near de- 
gree of consanguinity is established between himself and a 
Namaqua, he will be asked for a horse or an ox, or it may 
be for the very coat upon his back, which, as in duty bound, 
he is expected to hand over to " papa" or " mamma," as the 
case may be. The poor son, it is true, has also the privilege 
of demanding any thing that may captivate his fancy ; but 
since a native is usually more forward and importunate than 
a European, the bargain, as a rule, is generally a losing one 
to the latter. 



SINGULAE CUSTOM ORNAMENTS ARMS. 323 

When two Namaquas are talking together, and one is re- 
lating a story, the listener repeats the last words of the speak- 
er, even if he should know as much of the matter as his in- 
formant. For instance : if a man begin his recital by say- 
ing, " As I walked along the river, a very large rhinoceros 
rushed suddenly upon me." " Rushed suddenly upon me,'* 
echoes the auditor. " He was very fat." *' Very fat," the 
other ejaculates, and so forth. 

The Namaquas are fond of ornamenting their persons pro- 
fusely with brass, iron, and copper, but more especially with 
small beads of various colors. A kind of black, dull bead, 
manufactured by themselves, is particularly esteemed. A 
quantity of resin is procured, which they melt and mix with 
powdered charcoal, and, during the process of cooling, it is 
diligently kneaded, until, being converted to the consistency 
of gum, it is drawn out into long, narrow bars. Again it is 
gently heated over a slow fire, when small bits are detached 
and worked between the fingers till they assume the desired 
shape. Their patterns of bead-work are by no means devoid 
of taste. 

These people tattoo themselves, and also anoint and be- 
sprinkle their bodies with a profusion of grease and powders. 
The latter are of several kinds, and are chiefly obtained from 
the leaves of plants of the croton and diosma families. These 
powders are called " buku" by the Namaquas, and are much 
esteemed, more especially the kind procured south of the 
Orange River, which has a very agreeable and aromatic scent. 

The sole arms of the Namaquas of the present day are 
guns. Their original weapons, which consisted of the bow 
and arrow, the assegai, and an immense shield (made out of 
an entire, sin gle-r folded ox-hide), are now rarely seen. 

The Namaquas are an excessively idle race. They may 
be seen basking in the sun for days together in listless inac- 
tivity, frequently almost perishing from thirst or hunger, 
when, with very little exertion, they may have it in their 



324 DIVERSIONS DISTILLING DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 

power to satisfy the cravings of nature. If urged to work, 
they have been heard to say, "Why should we resemble 
the worms of the ground V A few may occasionally be seen 
employing themselves in making neat little camp-stools and 
in repairing guns, for which they have a certain aptitude. 
Jonker Afrikaner — be it said to his honor — is by far the 
most industrious Hottentot that I have yet seen. 

They are excessively fond of diversions, more especially 
music and dancing. They do not, however, distinguish them- 
selves by grace in their movements, nor do they even possess 
that dexterity and flexibility of limb that the Ovambo ladies 
— at the expense of our peace of mind — exhibited at King 
Nangoro's court ball. 

They understand and practice the art of distilling spirits. 
When a certain kind of berry, of a sweet and agreeable taste, 
is ripe, large quantities are collected and put into a skin bag 
to ferment. On being sufficiently advanced, they are depos- 
ited in a large pot and boiled, and the steam drawn off into 
another vessel joined to it by an old gun-barrel. The liquor 
is then allowed to settle for a few days, and becomes so strong 
and intoxicating that a small glass or two is sufficient to up- 
set any man's reason not previously accustomed to it. I 
have seen the natives become perfectly maddened by its 
effect. * 

They also make a kind of mead (a favorite drink with the 
ancient Northmen), which is a pleasant and refreshing bev- 
erage, and, unless partaken of to excess, is comparatively 
harmless. 

The domestic animals of the country are the cow, the 
sheep, the goat, and the dog. The sheep is highly prized by 
them, so much so that at one time (before the introduction 
of tobacco) it was more thought of than any thing else — even 
than women ! The original breed of Namaqua cattle is near- 
ly extinct. The southern tribes still possess it, though more 
or less mixed with that of the colony and D^mara-land- In 



LEAVE THE ORANGE RIVER KOMAGGAS. 325 

shape and size the Namaqua cattle approach nearer the Eu- 
ropean breed than to that indigenous to the countries north 
of them. They are of moderate size, very compact, and 
have short but stout horns (usually curved inward), with 
rather large hoofs. 



CHAPTER XXVIL 



Leave the Orange River. — Arrival at Komaggas. — Gardening and 
Agriculture. — The Author starts alone for the Cape. — Colony- 
Horses. — Enmity of the Boers to "Britishers." — Dutch Salutation. 
— The Author must have been at Timbuctoo, whether or no. — He 
arrives at Cape-Town. — Cuts a sorry figure. — Is run away with. — 
A Teast of Oranges. — Ghost Stories. — Cattle Auction. — Hans and 
John Allen proceed to Australia. — Preparations for Journey to the 
Ngami. — Departure from the Cape. 

On the 25th of August we left the inhospitable banks of 
the Orange River. After rather more than a week's slow 
travel through dreary and uninteresting tracts of land, covered 
by a deep, yielding sandy soil, bearing a dwarfish vegetation, 
we arrived at Komaggas, also a Rhenish missionary station. 
The Rev. Mr. Welch now officiated here.* The congrega- 
tion consists of a promiscuous collection of Hottentots and 
the offspring of other dark-colored natives. 

Komaggas is picturesquely situated, and well supplied with 
water. Gardening is brought almost to perfection ; and, not- 
withstanding the dryness of the atmosphere, corn is cultivated 
with success in the neighborhood. Indeed, the best wheat 
in the west part of the colony, I am informed, is grown here ; 
but its cultivation is attended with much labor, since it can 

* This institution was founded by the Rev. Mr. Schmelen. In 
1830, during the administration of Sir Lowry Cole, it received by 
charter an extensive grant of territory from the British government at 
the Cape. On that memorable occasion the zealous missionary pre- 
sented to the governor a translation of the four Gospels in the Nama- 
qua tongue. 



326 PROCUKE HORSES THE CAPE COLONY HORSE. 

only be raised on the stimmit of hills (which retain moisture 
longer than the lowlands) rising not unfrequently several 
thousand feet above the sea. 

Except at the station and one or two other spots, the ex- 
tensive grounds are scantily watered and ill adapted for graz- 
ing. During our visit, numbers of cattle were dying from 
starvation. The region is, moreover, in some seasons infected 
by diseases fatal to beasts of pasture, and these maladies, of 
late years, have been of so destructive a character as nearly 
to exterminate the cattle. Indeed, many of the Bastards and 
Hottentots, v/ho chiefly inhabit these parts, and who were 
formerly living in great abundance, are reduced to beggary 
from this cause. 

I now determined to leave Hans, and proceed in advance 
to Cape-Town, with a view of making arrangements about 
the sale of the cattle and the intended expedition to the Nga- 
mi. As we were now in a locality where horses might be 
obtained, I procured three or four of these animals without 
delay, partly for cash and partly for cattle. The rate of ex- 
change was from five to ten oxen, according to the qualities 
of the horse ; or, if money, 100 rix doll. (£7 10). A first- 
rate hack might be purchased for £10, though, of course, 
high-bred horses were more expensive. 

The Cape Colony horse is a wonderful beast. He is sup- 
posed to be of Spanish descent, but of late years has been 
much crossed by various breeds. Without any pretension to 
beauty, he is, perhaps, unrivaled in docility, hardiness, and 
endurance. In eight days (one of which was devoted to rest) 
I rode, accompanied by a Hottentot servant, from near Ko- 
maggas to Cape-Town, a distance of upward of four hund- 
red miles by road, thus averaging fifty miles per day. On 
an after occasion I remember to have performed upward of 
ninety miles at a very great pace, only once or twice re- 
moving the saddle for a few minutes. And be it borne in 
mind that the animals were young, indifferently broken-i:^ 
unshod, and had never been stall-fed. 



THE CAPE COLOHiTY HORSE. 327 

A most striking instance of the extraordinary endurance 
of Colony horses occurred a few years ago in Great Nama- 
qua-land. The animal in question belonged to a son of the 
Hottentot chief Zwartbooi, who one day, while hunting in an 
open tract of country, fell in with a troop of eleven giraftes, 
to which he immediately gave chase, and the whole of which 
he rode down and shot in succession. But the immense ex- 
ertion was too much for the gallant creature, whose life was 
thus sacrificed. 

This remarkable horse was well known throughout Great 
Namaqua-land, and is said to have been quite mad with ex- 
citement when he observed a wild animal. He only ceased 
to pursue when the game was either killed or no longer in 
sight. 

The Colony horses, with a little training, answer admira- 
bly for either hunting or shooting- They may be taught to 
remain stationary for hours together by merely turning the 
bridle over their heads, resting the extremities of the reins 
on the ground. They seldom trot ; the usual pace is a can- 
ter, and occasionally an amble. 

So much has already been said and written on the Cape 
Colony, its sturdy Boers, its soil, its productions, and so forth, 
that it would be superfluous to add any thing farther. Suf- 
fice it to mention a few of the most remarkable incidents of 
my journey. 

Soon after leaving Komaggas, my horse — a young half- 
trained stallion which had only been ridden thrice — shied, 
and, rearing on his hind legs, came to the ground on his back 
with sudden violence. Providentially, the soil was soft and 
yielding, and although I sustained his whole weight for a few 
seconds, I escaped with no worse consequence than a tight 
squeezing. 

After leaving Komaggas the homesteads of the Boer be- 
came daily more numerous. Riding up one morning to a 
house, with a view of obtaining some bread and flour, I was 



328 DUTCH "WELCOME HOSPITALITY. 

greeted with the follondng civil address : " Daar komt weder 
die verdoomde Engelsman ;" that is, "There comes again 
the cursed Enghshman." Though I had heard much of the 
aversion these men entertain for all that is British, and their 
coarse language in general, I certainly had not expected that 
they would have carried their animosity so far. Walking 
straight up to the individual that had thus accosted me, I 
said, in as good Dutch as I could muster, " My good friend, 
in my country, when a stranger does us the honor to pay us 
a visit, before even asking his errand or his name, much less 
abusing him, we invite him to our table ; and, when he has 
quenched his thirst and satisfied his hunger, we may prob- 
ably inquire whence he comes or where he goes ;" and with 
this I leaped into the saddle. The fellow clearly felt the re- 
buke, for, on turning my horse's head away, he endeavored 
to persuade me to stop ; but his rude salutation had quite 
spoiled my appetite. 

As a rule, however, though frequently coarse and abrupt 
in their language and conversation, they are undeniably hos- 
pitable ; and when a person can converse with them in their 
own language, and accommodate himself to their manners 
and peculiarities, they are excellent fellows, as I have often 
experienced. To several of their customs, nevertheless, the 
stranger will find some difficulty in reconciling himself 

In these localities, on meeting a wayfaring man, the Dutch 
Boer invariably thus accosts him : " Good-day ! Where do 
you come from 1 Where are you going "? Are you married ? 
How many children have you ?" and so forth. If you should 
be so unfortunate as not to have entered into the marriage 
state, he is astonished beyond measure, and looks upon you 
with something like contempt. 

Like most people who are novices in a foreign language, I 
committed at first sad mistakes, and many a joke and laugh 
originated at my expense. Once, indeed, my awkwardness 
cost me the loss of a supper, of which I stood greatly in need, 



AT TIMBUCTOO, WHETHER OR NO. 329 

having ridden some fifty miles in the course of the day with- 
out tasting food of any description. In the Dutch language, 
" danken" signifies a direct refusal ; but, not being aware of 
this, I interpreted it in the very reverse sense, as meaning, 
" If you please." As often, therefore, as I repeated the om- 
inous word, so often had I the mortification of seeing the 
smoking dishes pass by me ! 

Refreshing myself one afternoon at a comfortable farm- 
house, the worthy host inquired whence and how far I had 
journeyed. Having made a rough calculation in my own 
mind, I told him the approximate distance. No sooner had 
I done so than he clasped his hands together, and, turning 
to his wife, exclaimed, in the utmost amazement, " Gracious 
heavens ! the man has been in Timbuctoo !" " No, my good 
friend, not quite so far," I remarked. But he became too 
much absorbed in the novel idea, and, without attending to 
me, he went on to say, " Yes, indeed, the man has been at 
Timbuctoo." I again took the liberty to remonstrate, when 
his brother, who was also present, ejaculated, *' Yes, brother, 
you are right. Timbuctoo ! ah ! eh ? yes ! Let me see, 
Timbuctoo. Ah ! I remember to have read that it is situated 
at the end of Africa, in a place where you can see nothing 
but sand." Once more I attempted to explain, but to no 
purpose. Right or wrong, I must have been at Timbuctoo. 
I secretly wished I had been there. 

Finding they apparently knew more about my travels than 
I did, I left them to themselves to discuss the merit of the 
journey, and, diving into the eatables which had been lib- 
erally spread before me, I did ample justice to their hospi- 
tality. 

On the 2 2d of September I reached Cape-Town, where 
my appearance afforded no little delight and amusement to 
the mob, who shouted merrily after me, " Look at the jockey ! 
ha ! ha ! ha !" My dress was certainly highly picturesque. 
An old English hunting-cap — a present from a friend — 



330 A TURN-OUT ^NECK OR NOTHING. 

adorned my head. The striped jacket that I wore, now well 
bleached with sun and rain, had shrunk to such a degree as 
to reach only a few inches down my back ; and as for sleeves, 
they just covered the elbows, the rest having been left on the 
" Wacht-een-bigte" bushes. My nether garments, consisting 
of a pair of moleskin trowsers, were on a par with my jack- 
et, for they hardly reached to the calf of my leg ; and, to com- 
plete the "turn-out," my *'veld" shoes were of untanned 
leather, and so sunburnt as to resemble bricks. And as 
Cape-Town at that time could boast of no " Moses and Son," 
or " Silver and Co.," it was only by degrees, and exploring 
the different shops, that I was able to remodel my dress. 

I lost no time in advertising our cattle; and, having se- 
cured a good auctioneer and made some other arrangements, 
I again set off to join my party. 

Just as I left Cape-Town, my horse, which was excessive- 
ly shy, took fright, and started off at a rate which would 
have "taken the shine" out of even John Gilpin's runaway 
steed. In the attempt to stop him, the bit (a very substan- 
tial one) broke, and in an instant I was at the animal's mer- 
cy. Finding myself in an awkward predicament, and being 
desirous to shorten the race as much as possible, I unhesi- 
tatingly gave him both spur and whip, and, as a conse- 
quence, ditches, walls, and fences were le'aped and passed at 
a fearful rate, to the great danger of myself and those I en- 
countered. I do not profess to be skilled in horsemanship, 
my experience as an equestrian being very small. It was, 
therefore, as much as I could do to keep my seat. Neverthe- 
less, I had the good fortune to escape unhurt, for after a while 
my steed became exhausted, and pulled up of his own accord. 

I found Hans in good health. The Dutch Boers had once 
or twice behaved rudely, but the Dane's herculean appear- 
ance and independent manner quickly cooled their ire, and 
he was allowed to pass unmolested. He told his adventures 
with graphic effect and racy humor. 



A FEAST OF ORANGES GHOST-STOKIES. 331 

Oranges, which are very abundant in these parts, were be- 
ginning to ripen. One day some of our Damaras expressed 
a wish to taste the enticing fruit, and, being supplied with a 
shilling, they started off. In a short time they brought back 
no less than two hundred oranges. They had scarcely fin- 
ished a dozen or two, however, before the effect became irre- 
sistible. The acidity of the fruit at this time of the year was 
so great that it acted with the force of gun-cotton ; and, aft- 
er having a " good blow-out," they were so disordered as to 
be unable to taste food for several successive days. Indeed, 
they were effectually cured of their orange mania. 

At the bivouac fire I was often entertained with ghost-sto- 
ries. John, our wagon-driver, who seemed fully to believe 
in apparitions, was the chief narrator. 

" Ghosts," said he, " abound in and about the neighbor- 
hood of the Cape. At times they appear in the shape of 
dogs; at others, in that of human beings. Once, late at 
night, I was coming from Simon's Bay, when the oxen all of 
a sudden stopped short, and would have darted right into the 
bush had I not been quick to turn them. Just then, noth- 
ing could be seen ; but presently a large white dog, with a 
chain round the neck, appeared. He passed us slowly with- 
out injuring us in any way, and shaped his course over a 
cross-road, when we continued our journey. At another time 
I met the " spook" (ghost) in the form of a very tall black 
man, accompanied by a large dog of the same color. 

*' Frequently, when returning late at night to my master's 
place, while yet at a distance, I have seen the whole yard 
and dwelling-house splendidly illuminated, but on coming to 
the spot all was gone. 

" As a protection to the garden, my master had erected a 
hut, where men slept at night. After a while, however, the 
place became so haunted that the watchmen fled, and slept 
any where they could in the bush. The * spooks' were seen 
continually to promenade up and down the walks arm-in- 
arm, taking an occasional peep into the house. 



332 CATTLE SOLD BY AUCTION A TREAT. 

"In dark nights a ghost would sometimes appear at the 
head of the team, and, laying hold of the thong attached to 
the leading ox, would conduct the cattle out of their proper 
course, I being totally unconscious of the proceedings at the 
time. 

" Again, I would hear wagons and carriages coming along 
the road at a brisk pace, and, while making way for them to 
pass, I found, to my astonishment, that the vehicles were al- 
ready far ahead of us." 

On the 18th of October, and when within a day's ride of 
Cape-Town, we disposed of our cattle by public auction. 

Owing to the great distance we had brought them, and the 
scarcity of pasturage during the latter part of the journey, 
our cattle had become very lean, and, although they were 
in themselves an exceedingly fine lot, their want of condition 
neither suited the butcher nor the grazier. In their emaci- 
ated state, indeed, it would require fully a year before they 
would become acclimatized and refattened, in which inter\^al, 
and before getting accustomed to their new pasturage, many 
would probably die. They scarcely averaged £2 per head. 
The cows sold almost the best ; not on account of the milk 
they yielded, for that was little or nothing, but simply be- 
cause, strange to say, they were exempted from a peculiar 
disease (strangu7y) which kills the oxen in these parts. The 
Boers are in consequence obliged to make use of cows for ag- 
ricultural purposes. 

It is customary on these occasions to give a banquet to 
the purchasers, who chiefly consist of Dutch farmers ; and 
if the cattle are known to be fit for slaughter, the butchers 
of the metropolis also come in for a share. A large quan- 
tity of wine is supposed to be necessary to facilitate the sale. 
Fortunately, this kind of liquor is very cheap ; and though 
a person may have to entertain from fifty to one hundred 
people for two days together, the expense of such festivities 
rarely exceeds seven or eight pounds sterling. 



EXCURSIONS D acre's PULPIT. 



331 



Our hands being now free, the first object to which we 
turned our attention was to secure a vessel to carry us back 
to Walfisch Bay. There happened just then to be none at 
the Cape but we were promised one within a certain period. 
In the mean time, we occupied ourselves in making the need- 
ful purchases, &c. 

I also made excursions into the neighborhood. Among 
other interesting places, I visited, in company with Mr. Bain 
(the distinguished South African geologist), the famous pass, 
called after my kind host. Bain's Kloof, through which the 
road leads across the Drakenstein mountains from the village 
of Wellington to the district of Worcestershire. The vig- 
nette below is a view of a certain part of the pass designated 




DACEE'S PtIXPIT. 



Dacre's pulpit, and has been selected from the portfolio ot 
an accomplished friend in Cape-Town. 

We had nearly finished our arrangements when the news 
arrived at the Cape of the extraordinary successes met with 



334 AUSTRALIAN DIGGINGS HANS AND JOHN ALLEN, 

at the Australian gold-diggings, and the same mania, though 
not quite to the same extent, which had turned the people's 
heads all over the world, took possession of the inhabitants 
of this colony. Every available vessel was bought up or 
chartered for the "diggings." I began seriously to appre- 
hend that this would deprive us of the craft we had engaged. 
Indeed, the owner did actually sell her, but, fortunately, 
placed another at our disposal, the alteration, however, caus- 
ing us very great delay. 

Though the loss, at this period, of the assistance of Hans 
would have been grievous and irreparable, I thought it my 
duty to explain to him the respective advantages of remain- 
ing with me and going to Australia. By adhering to the 
trading, he would be pretty sure to secure a fair income an- 
nually, while by adopting the other plan he might have the 
chance of realizing a fortune in the course of a year or two. 
I urged that if he felt at all inclined to try his luck at the 
" diggings," he should not hesitate ; for, in that case, I would 
take charge of his goods and dispose of them as if they were 
my own. Hans evidently appreciated my well-meant inten- 
tions, but generously refused to do any thing that was not in 
strict accordance with my own wishes. However, I could 
not take advantage of such an offer in his position, but told 
him to think the matter well over by himself, and to be en- 
tirely guided by his own inclination. 

After much hesitation, Hans finally came to the determ- 
ination to migrate to Australia, and John Allen having also 
expressed a wish to accompany him, I drew up an agreement 
between them of such a nature that they might dissolve part- 
nership if they wished, without detriment to either. With 
regard to myself and Hans, we agreed to share each other's 
fortunes, though far apart, bad or good. 

Matters having been thus far settled, I immediately ar- 
ranged about the passage of the two adventurers ; provided 
them with a supply of every article necessary for such an ex- 



ALL ALONE REFLECTIONS PROCURE INSTRUMENTS. 335 

pedition, and nearly one hundred pounds sterling in ready 
money. This change in our original plans proved of great 
inconvenience to me, inasmuch as we had already sunk every 
available shilling of our small capital in the intended expedi- 
tion to Walfisch Bay. However, it was all successfully ar- 
ranged, and in the early part of January, 1853, they took 
their departure. 

Thus once more I was alone. I could not help reflecting 
on the difficulties of my position. Two of the best men that, 
perhaps, ever set foot on African soil, with whom I had 
shared hardships and privations of no trifling character, had 
left me to seek their fortunes in remote climes. On me alone, 
then, devolved the task of watching over and improving the 
united interest of myself and Hans. Another duty, not less 
urgent, claimed my attention, namely, that of solving the 
grand geographical problem — the discovery of a route from 
the west coast to the Lake Ngami. 

On mentioning my trying position to some Cape friends, 
they coolly advised me to dispose of my goods and return to 
Europe. I turned in disgust from the proposal, which only 
served to urge me to renewed exertions. My spirits rose in 
proportion to the difficulties. 

Immediately on the departure of Hans and John Allen, 
I hastened to attend to my own aflTairs. I was tolerably well 
supplied with every thing but servants and instruments for 
taking astronomical observations. After much search and 
many bargains, I succeeded in getting together a very fair set 
of the latter, consisting of a large, good-working sextant, a 
box-sextant for taking angular bearings, two artificial hor- 
izons (one of colored plate-glass mounted in brass, with lev- 
eling screws, and another for mercury), an excellent azimuth 
compass, one or two good pocket-compasses, three boiling- 
point thermometers for ascertaining heights of places above 
the level of the sea, two telescopes, one for common field- 
work, and the other large enough for occultations, a chro- 



336 TIMBO AGAIN NEW SERVANTS. 

nometer watch, and two ordinary watches. Mr. Maclear, 
the royal astronomer at the Cape, kindly assisted me in se- 
lecting most of the above instruments. He, moreover, took a 
great deal of pains in adjusting them, and showing me their 
use, though I fear I almost wore out his patience, for I was 
excessively stupid in this respect. But I trust the result has 
proved that his labor was not altogether thrown away. 

Shortly after our arrival at the Cape I had been fortunate 
enough in securing the services of an old acquaintance, Tim- 
bo, who had safely returned from St. Helena, where he left 
Mr. Galton. He proved invaluable to me. To his charge 
my dogs and native servants were confided, and they throve 
wonderfully under his management. 

I had intended to send two or three Damaras with Hans 
to Australia ; but one day, previous to his departure, they 
came to me in great tribulation, and said they did not want 
to go any farther, but wished to return with me to their own 
land. If such was really their intention, it became my duty 
to gratify them ; but I could not help feeling a little vexed, 
for, since no one but Timbo could speak their language, I 
strongly suspected that he had influenced their decision. 
With a view of ascertaining the fact, I called him, and told 
him my opinion ; but he stoutly denied the charge, adding, 
" Suppose, master, me was to take a horse from the stable 
in the Kaap to Wynberg, or to any other strange place, and 
then leave him to himself, surely he would return whence he 
came ; and so it is with the natives." I was struck with 
the sagacity of the remark, and said no more about the 
matter. 

Timbo had procured a passage from St. Helena in the 
Birkenhead man-of-war, and on the voyage he got acquainted 
with an English lad, George Bonfield, aged sixteen. A mu- 
tual attachment sprung up between the shrewd Ethiopian 
and the youthful Saxon, and in a short time the former 
was the means of indirectly saving the life of the latter. On 



I 



ATTACHMENT A NONE-SUCH. 337 

the arrival of the vessel at the Cape, the boy requested per- 
mision to land, in order to enjoy the society of his swarthy 
friend. This was granted, on condition that he should rejoin 
the vessel at Simon's Bay. 

While doubling the southern extremity of Africa, the un- 
fortunate Birkenhead struck, and, as is well known, was to- 
tally lost, with almost all hands on board. 

Timbo took every care of the boy, whose life had thus 
been saved. He put him to school, and afterward secured 
him a berth with a tradesman in Cape-Town. Finding that 
the youth was anxious to see something more of the world, 
and to add to his store of knowledge, I took him into my 
employ. He accompanied me to the Great Lake, and when, 
in the course of the journey, I became ill, and crippled by 
wounds inflicted by wild animals, his presence and tender 
care greatly relieved and soothed my sufferings. 

On Timbo's recommendation, and from possessing a smat- 
tering of Portuguese, I engaged a Mozambique liberated 
slave of the name of Louis ; but he turned out the filthiest, 
laziest, most sensual, and most useless man I ever came 
across. Just as I was about to engage him, he said, " Of 
course, master give me my washing and ironing." "My 
good fellow," I replied, "has Timbo not explained to you the 
sort of country we are going to % You must thank your 
stars if you get water enough to wash your face, much less 
your clothes. And, if you happen to get a sufficiency for the 
latter purpose, you will certainly have to cleanse your own 
garments. In the wilderness, according to an old saying, 
* every man is his own washerwoman.' " 

A young Hottentot, whom I engaged as wagon-driver for 
the journey, ran into debt, and shuffled his cards so cleverly 
that I did not become aware of the circumstance until the 
day fixed for our departure, when there was, of course, no 
time to look for another driver, and I had no alternative left 
but to pay his liabilities. 

P 



338 



PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 



The last of my servants, also a Hottentot and a wagon- 
driver, known as " old Piet," was, however, a most excellent 
and well-behaved man. He had been, it is true, in the habit 
of getting drunk, but, once out of the Cape, he proved him- 
self a hard-working, honest, and faithful fellow, and has never 
since left my service. 

Finding that a Mr. Reid, 
whose acquaintance I had made 
in Great Namaqua-land, and 
who had been very kind and at- 
tentive to me when I was laid 
up by fever, was about to un- 
dertake a trading excursion to 
Walfisch Bay, I gladly availed 
myself of the opportunity thus 
afforded of dividing between us 
the expenses of a vessel ; a con- 
^ siderable sum was accordingly 
S saved to me. 

At last, after many difficul- 
ties and delays, we were ready ; 
and on the sixteenth of January, 
having embarked in the schoon- 
er Flying Fish, we unfurled our 
sails and bade farewell to Cape- 
Town, where, during a second stay, I enjoyed much kindness 
and hospitality. "flfl 

* The above wood-cut is a portrait of a negro youth bom and bred 
at the Cape. He has been jobbing, and is returning home with the 
various articles intrusted to his charge. 




NE6B0-B0Y. 



ARRIVE AT WALPISCH BAY — -THE NAMAQUA. 339 



CHAPTER ;xx:pii. , , 

Arrival atWalfisch Bay.—- Atrocities of the Naitiaqtias.— Mr. Halm': — 
His Philanthropy. — Author departs for Richterfeldt. — Shoots a 
Lion. — Lions unusually numerous. — Piet's Performances with Li- 
ons. — The Lion a Church-goer. — Barmen. — Eikhams. — Kamapyu's 
mad Doings and Consequences thereof. — Kamapyu is wounded by 
other Shafts than Cupid's. — Author visits Cornelius ; here he meets 
Amral and a party of Griqua Elephant-hunters. — ^Reach Rehoboth. 
—Tan's Mountain. — Copper Ore. — Jonathan Afrika. — A Lion sups 
on a Goat. — A Lion besieges the Cattle. 

We had an excellent run to Walfisch Bay, and reached it 
on the 23d of the month in which we left the Cape. In the 
afternoon I landed the horses, but very nearly lost the best. 
The halter having slipped off his head, he was making 
straight for the sea, and was well-nigh exhausted before we 
could again secure him. The same night I rode over to 
Scheppmansdorf, but the darkness was so profound that I was 
unable to see the track or hold any course. It was by the 
merest accident that I stumbled upon the house, to the great 
surprise of my old friends, the Bam family, whom I found 
well, but not so comfortably lodged as when I saw them last, 
the Kuisip having swept away their dwelling-house and out- 
buildings. 

From the worthy missionary I learned much both to please 
and grieve me. The Namaquas had, as usual, been pillaging 
the Damaras, and were dealing death and desolation around 
them. It was no longer considered safe even for white men 
to remain. Indeed, the Namaquas had already attacked 
Richterfeldt. Early one morning a horde of these maraud- 
ers suddenly appeared, and carried off all the cattle belonging 
to the people of the station. Not satisfied with this, they 



340 IHEET OLD FKIENDS» 

fired several shots into the dwelling-house, though, fortunate- 
ly, without effect. Mrs. Rath and children were laid up by 
" eye-sickness," and Mr. Schoneberg, who had arrived the 
day previously, and who was in a very weak state from the 
effects of a recent severe illness, was almost frightened out 
of his senses by the sudden and unexpected onset. 

On Mr. Rath walking up to the barbarians to remonstrate 
with them on their brutal conduct, they seized and flogged 
him most severely. A Damara who was at his side they 
shot dead. In consequence of this attack, Messrs. Rath and 
Schoneberg were daily expected to leave their stations, and 
to remove to Mr. Bam's place. 

On the other hand, I heard that a party of Bechuanas had 
been visiting Jonker Afrikaner, and it was supposed they had 
crossed the Kalahari desert. This was gratifying intelli- 
gence, because, if these natives had been able to pass through 
such dreaded regions, I might also humbly hope to do the 
same. 

On my return to the Bay I found almost all my goods, 
and those of my friend, Mr. Reid, safely landed, and, with 
the assistance of Mr. Bam's oxen, every thing was quickly 
transferred to the station. This was scarcely effected when 
the Rev. Messrs. Kleinschmidt and Hahn arrived from the 
Cape. The latter had been on his road to Europe to pay a 
visit to his family, and make some arrangements respecting 
the education of his children. But his heart bled for the 
wretched condition of this benighted land, and, at immense 
sacrifice, he returned with a view of endeavoring once more 
to bring about a reconciliation between the Namaquas and 
the Damaras. 

Next to the love and worship which we owe to our Cre- 
ator must be ranked the love of our own species. This Di- 
vine doctrine recalls those beautiful lines by Leigh Hunt ; 

" Abou Ben Adhem (may his tribe increase !) 
Awoke one night from a deep dream of peace, 



PHILANTHROPY JONKER INEXORABLE MR. BAM. 341 

And saw, v/ithin the moonlight in his room, 
Making it rich, and like a lily in bloom, 
An angel writing in a book of gold : 
Exceeding peace had made Ben Adhem bold, 
And to the presence in the room he said, 
* What writest thou ?' The vision raised its head, 
And, with a look made of all sweet accord, 
Answered, ' The names of those who love the Lord.' 
'And is mine one?' said Abou. 'Nay, not so,' 
Eeplied the angel. Abou spoke more low. 
But cheerly still ; and said, ' I pray thee, then, 
Write me as one that loves his fellow-men.' 

The angel wrote, and vanished. The next night 
It came again with a great wakening light. 
And showed the names whom love of God had bless'd. 
And lo ! Ben Adhem' s name led all the rest." 

All Mr. Hahn's exertions and painstakings, however, were 
in vain. Jonker was inexorable. He flatly told him there 
was no occasion for missionaries, since they themselves were 
quite capable of managing the affairs of the country. This 
proved the death-blow to the Damara mission ; for, though 
Messrs. Schoneberg and Rath continued their labors for some 
time afterward, they were finally compelled to desist. 

On leaving Great Namaqua-land the preceding year, I 
placed two teams of wagon-oxen under the charge of my 
friend, William Zwartbooi, to be kept ready for emergences. 
I now lost no time in sending people to fetch them down ; 
but the distance was great, and I could not expect them for 
several weeks to come. Through my interference, Mr. Bam 
kindly furnished Mr. Reid with a sufficiency of trained oxen 
for his own conveyance at a very moderate cost, which ena- 
bled him to start for the interior with scarcely any delay. 

While waiting for my own cattle, I busied myself with 
arranging my baggage, sketching plans for the future, eating 
naras, and now and then mounting my steed to chase the 
ostrich. 

On the 9th of February Mr. Rath arrived, and, seeing my 



!o42 THE AUTHOR SHOOTS A LION. 

diiemma, kindly proposed to place some of his oxen at my 
disposal as far as Barmen. I gratefully accepted the disin- 
terested offer, and having obtained a few more oxen from the 
Namaqua chief Jacob, at Scheppmansdorf, I prepared to 
commence my journey with one of the wagons, leaving the 
other to follow as soon as my cattle arrived. Rehoboth 
having been appointed as the place of rendezvous, I started. 

My course, as on former occasions, lay by Tineas, Onanis, 
and Tjobis, places well known to the reader. I saw a good 
deal of game, but was too much pressed for time to stop and 
shoot. Until we reached Richterfeldt, little or nothing of 
interest occurred. William and Bonfield, in rambling about 
the hills one day, stumbled upon a lion, and it being the first 
time they had ever seen the dreaded beast in his native state, 
they became almost petrified with fear. 

I also had an opportunity of shooting one of these animals. 
While one day pursuing some gemsboks, a lion unexpectedly 
sprang out of a bush within forty or fifty paces of me. The 
brute's sudden appearance somewhat startled me, but I had 
so often been balked in my attempts to get a shot at lions 
that I only hesitated for a moment. Accordingly, the lion 
having turned round to look at me, I took a deliberate aim 
at his forehead and fired, and, as good luck would have it, 
with deadly effect. Indeed, so accurate was my aim that it 
almost split his skull in two, and, as a matter of course, killed 
him on the spot. 

My prize proved a full-grown male, but his hide was so 
much worn and torn that I did not deem it worth the trouble 
of preservation. 

Lions had been unusually numerous and daring during the 
year. Mr. Eath's wagon-driver, Piet, a mighty Nimrod, and 
his two foster-sons, had killed upward of twenty in the 
course of a few months. And many and wonderful were 
their escapes from these animals. 

One night the old man was awakened by a peculiar noise 



piet's performance with lions. 343 

outside his door, which was constructed so as to shut in two 
parts. The lower division was closed, but the upper was 
left open on account of the oppressive state of the atmos- 
phere. Quietly taking up his gun, Piet stole softly to the 
door, expecting to meet with a hyaena, as he knew that one 
of these beasts was in the habit of harassing the goat-kids, 
which, for better security, he had kraaled against the wall 
of the house. His amazement, however, was great when, 
instead of a hyaena, a lion stood before him. Without losing 
his presence of mind, he poked the muzzle of his piece against 
the animal's head and blew out its brains. 

Again : Kiding along one morning in a very weak state, 
having just recovered from a severe fever, a lion suddenly 
rushed at him. The ox became frightened, and threw the 
old man. One of his feet was caught in the stirrup ; but, 
fortunately, the " veld" shoe slipped off. '^ I know," said the 
veteran hunter, "I was thrown, and that I got on my legs 
again, but in what manner is quite a mystery to me this day. 
I called, as loud as my feeble voice permitted, to my people 
to bring a gun, the lion always getting nearer and nearer, 
until he stood within arm's length. I once or twice tried to 
pull out my pistol or my sword-knife, which, as you know, 
I usually carry about with me, but in my anxiety I missed 
them. My jacket was lying just in front of me on the ground, 
but the brute had one of his paws on it. I felt desperate, 
however, and, pulling it forcibly away, struck the lion on the 
head, when he grinned and growled terribly, and I expected 
every moment he would tear me to pieces. At this junc- 
ture, my Damara, who fortunately had heard my cries of 
distress, came running up with my gun. Taking the piece 
from the man, I fired at the lion, who had retreated a few 
paces, where he sat quietly looking at me. I don't know 
whether I hit him, for what with the sudden fright, and 
my weak constitution, I felt very unsteady. Be that as it 
may, it had, at all events, the effect of scaring him away, 



344 A LION GOES TO CHURCH MEET MK. HELD. 

for at the report of the gun he instantly betook himself to 
cover." 

On another occasion, when the missionary wagon was on 
its road to Walfisch Bay, a lion sprang unexpectedly into 
the midst of the sleeping party, which was bivouacking, at 
the time, on the banks of the Kubakop River. One of Piet's 
sons, who was present, picked up his gun from the ground ; 
but, in order to prevent the dew from injuring it, he had 
wrapped his waistcoat round the lock, and in the hurry he 
was unable to disengage the garment. Finding, however, 
that the lion was just about to lay hold of him, he held out 
the piece and fired at random, but fortunately with deadly 
effect. 

Once a lion found his way into the church at Richterfeldt ! 
The alarm being given, the Damaras, assegai in hand, rush- 
ed to the spot, and, seizing him by the tail and ears, dragged 
him bodily out of the sacred edifice. The poor brute was 
actually dying from starvation, and offered but a very feeble 
resistance. I saw his skin. 

At Barmen I was obliged to leave Mr. E-ath's cattle ; but, 
by the assistance of Mr. Hahn's wagon-driver, who, on rea- 
sonable terms, lent me half a dozen first-rate oxen, I was able 
to prosecute my journey. On arriving at Eikhams I met 
my friend Reid, who had been very successful in the disposal 
of his stock in trade. I saw Jonker ; but, though he was 
civil and obliging, the constant forfeiture of his word had dis- 
gusted me, and I felt compelled to treat him with great cool- 
ness and reserve. 

Before leaving Eikhams, an accident occurred that might 
have ended seriously. A half-cast native lad, whom Eye- 
brecht had placed at my disposal, was the occasion of it. 
Though a shrewd youth, he was cursed with a passionate 
temper. The Namaquas had been teasing him for some time, 
when, suddenly unfolding his clasp-knife, he threatened to 
stab the nearest man, but was quickly deprived of the deadly 



THE AUTHOR SAVES KAMAPYU'S LIFE. 345 

instrument. His blood was up, however, and, seeing my rifle 
standing against the wall of the old church, he made a rush 
for it, and was about to discharge the contents into one of 
his tormentors, when, throwing myself hurriedly between the 
contending parties, I fortunately prevented the catastrophe. 
Being now convinced that a storm was brewing, I quickly 
pushed the boy through the door of the building, and placed 
myself resolutely at the entrance. 

Notwithstanding the Namaquas would not hesitate to shoot 
any of their slaves for the smallest offense, they consider such 
an act on the part of one of the subjected race against his 
master to be of so atrocious a character that they would un- 
doubtedly have torn the lad to pieces had I not been present. 
As it was, they rose to a man, and swore they would have 
his life. The boy, on his part, instead of betraying any symp- 
toms of fear, was foaming with rage, and, had I permitted 
it, would unhesitatingly have attacked the whole party. 

Finding that I was determined to foil them of their vic- 
tim, they turned their ire on me. I quietly told them that 
the lad was in my employ, and that, if they left him alone, I 
would duly investigate the matter, and, should I find him 
guilty, would punish him severely; but, if they chose to 
take the law into their own hands, they must look to the 
consequences, for they should only pass to the youth over my 
body. This somewhat cooled their rage, and, after much 
parleying, the matter was finally and peaceably settled. 

Many a time since has the same boy, by the violence of his 
temper, placed me and himself in the most critical positions, 
and I often marveled that he was not killed. At last he re- 
ceived a severe lesson. Having one day coquetted with some 
Kalahari women, the indignant husband or parent sent him 
off with two poisoned arrows, one of which pierced his nose, 
and the other transfixed his arm. For a short time he suf- 
fered agonies, but escap.ed with his life. 

Excepting his passionate temper, he was an excellent fel- 

* r2 



346 VISITS COitNELIUS CATTLE-TKADE. 

low — honest, willing, obliging, industrious, enduring, but, 
above all, an inimitable " tracker." Indeed, in this respect 
he surpassed the Bushmen. Many a weary mile have I trod- 
den under his able guidance, and many a wild beast have I 
laid low by his assistance. His sight was also remarkable. 
I rather pride myself on my experience as a woodsman, and 
usually proved a match for the natives ; but this youth beat 
me hollow. My men called him Kamapyu — a most appro- 
priate name, since it signified hot water. I was at last com- 
pelled to part with him, which I did with considerable re- 
luctance. I rewarded his services, which had proved inval- 
uable to me, by a variety of things, besides sufficient cattle to 
buy him half a dozen wives, an acquisition which, next to 
carnivorous food, is the greatest bliss of a savage. 

After my departure from Jonker's I directed my steps to- 
ward Cornelius. On taking leave of this chief the previous 
year, I promised forthwith to return with a supply of goods, 
provided he and his people behaved themselves satisfactorily. 
In order to save time, I dispatched a messenger to acquaint 
him with my approach, as also to request him to call his 
tribe together, and urge them to bring such cattle as they de- 
sired to dispose of. My wish was attended to ; for, on arriv- 
ing at the werft, I found about two hundred head of cattle 
waiting for me, which, after some little bargaining, I secured 
in the course of two days. I had the misfortune, however, 
to lose a small portion of this number, which broke through 
the kraal in the night, and were never again heard of. I 
strongly suspect they were stolen by the original owners. I 
had also the mishap to get my telescope spoiled. Being 
probably smitten by the lustre of the metal, the mischievous 
Namaqua lads extracted the object-glass, which could be of 
no earthly use to them except as an ornament. 

About this time two of my horses died of the " horse-sick- 
ness." One still remained, and, though a remarkably fleet 
animal, was so shy as to be useless as a hunter. He was the 



AMRAL A PARTY OF GKIQUAS. 347 

same that ran away with me at Cape-Town. The natives 
offered to buy him at a great price, but I had made up my 
mind that, rather than go without him,, I would run the risk 
of losing him by the fearful distemper in question. How- 
ever, he lived to see the Lake, where I finally disposed of 
him. 

Some days after my arrival at Cornelius's werft, my old 
friend Amral made his appearance. He was accompanied 
by a party of Griquas,* from whom I learned much to in- 
terest me. 

In the hope of meeting with elephants, they had crossed 
the Kalahari direct from their own country, but had suiffer- 
ed great privations ; for, though from all appearances water 
must have been abundant in the rainy season, the desert was 
fearfully dry when they passed through it. They had occa- 
sionally been as much as nine consecutive days without a 
drop of water, but sustained their own lives and those of 
their quadrupeds by sucking and eating the wild gourd, 
which fortunately covered the waste in great abundance. 
To lessen the bitterness of the juice, they first cooked or 
roasted the fruit. 

The party, which consisted of no less than forty-seven 
wagons, had penetrated to within a few days of the Lake 
Ngami, but not finding elephants, they retraced their steps. 
A certain portion of the country they had visited was infest- 
ed by the " tsetse," by whose poisonous bites they had lost 
some of the cattle and horses. The "horse-sickness" also 
prevailed. 

I engaged as Bechuana interpreter one of the Griquas, 
who had visited the lake by the ordinary route {via Kuru- 
man). He spoke of the inhabitants as civil and hospitable, 
but warned me against the Dutch farmers, should I fall in 
with any. I was well aware of their troublesome disposi- 

* Descendants of Dutch farmers and Hottentot women, and hence 
also called Bastards. 



348 ARRIVAL AT REHOBOTH TANS MOUNTAIN. 

tion, but, of course, made due allowance for the exaggera- 
tions of an individual belonging to a nation who are sworn 
enemies to the Boers. The Griquas supposed that Ngami 
might be reached in nine days from Tunobis (the farthest 
point to the eastward reached by Mi*. Galton about a year 
and a half ago), and said that two or three fountains existed 
on the road. 

On the 17th of March I found myself at Rehoboth, hav- 
ing, in little more than a month, with borrowed oxen, pass- 
ed over several hundred miles of country, and obtained by 
barter about three hundred head of cattle. I felt rather 
proud of the performance. My other wagons, which I had 
ordered to take the Kuisip route, had not yet arrived. I 
felt disappointed, and was unable to account for the delay, 
since want of oxen could not have been the cause, the mis- 
sionaries having kindly and promptly sent me more than one 
team. Indeed, Onesimus had started with upward of forty 
well-trained beasts several weeks previously to my reaching 
the station, and I began to fear that some evil had befallen 
them. 

While abiding their forthcoming, I busied myself in map- 
ping the country and exploring the neighborhood. Close to 
the station rose some conspicuous masses of granite (on Mr. 
Galton' s map erroneously termed limestone), interspersed 
with large quantities of glittering quartz. From the high- 
est peak I obtained a fine and extensive view of the sur- 
rounding country. The beautiful table-mountain of Tans, 
visible from many points, stood out in bold relief against the 
western horizon. In a clear atmosphere it may be distin- 
guished at an immense distance. Thus it can be discerned 
at Onanis, from the top of " Wit- water" range, at Rehoboth, 
and even considerably to the south on the P'ish River. 

Sir James Alexander, in his journey to Walfisch Bay from 
the Orange River, climbed Tans Mountain, and considered 
its elevation to be about 4000 feet, but he does not say 



COPPEK ORE A FALSE PKIEND JONATHAN AFRIKA. 349 

whether above the plain or the level of the sea. Be that as 
it may, however, I do not think either estimation correct. 
Mr. Vollmer, who once, with great labor, crossed the table 
of Tans in his own wagon, informed me that its western as- 
pect, or the side facing the Kuisip, is very steep and high, 
but the eastern slope is gradual, and not a great deal elevated 
above the plain. 

The rocks all about Rehoboth are strongly impregnated 
with copper, and specimens of the ore of a very productive 
quality (forty to ninety per cent.) are occasionally found. I 
presented Mr. Reid with several pieces, giving him permission 
to use them as he thought fit. I advised him, however, to 
get them analyzed by Mr. Schmieterleuv, whom I knew to 
be a straightforward man ; but he preferred to subject them 

to his own friend. Dr. G . After about a year's absence 

I met Mr. Reid again, and on asking him what advantage 
he had derived from the copper I gave to him, he replied, 

" None whatever. Dr. G declared the specimens were 

worthless." Yet not long afterward he went into partner- 
ship with a certain merchant on the strength of these identi- 
cal specimens. So much for friendship ! 

Captain Zwartbooi's people had started off to Damara-land 
under pretext of looking out for fountains, but the sequel 
proved it was solely with a view of stealing cattle. The ex- 
ample set them by Jonker, Cornelius, and others, was too 
strong to be longer withstood. 

One evening Jonathan Afrika presented himself at the sta- 
tion. I had already, at Barmen, seen this man, who was of 
Bechuana extraction, but had been brought up among civil- 
ized people. A shrewder fellow I never came across. He 
bore an excellent character throughout the country. When 

he first arrived he accompanied Mr. M , the trader, in 

whose service he suffered much privation. 

Jonathan, who soon afterward entered into my service, was 
a man of great courage and an excellent marksman. He 



350 A NIMROD A lion's SUPPER. 

had shared many a hunting exploit with his friend Hans, and 
had made numerous lions bite the dust. 

On one occasion, Jonathan was riding leisurely along, when 
suddenly, a short distance in advance of him, a fine lion rush- 
ed out of the bushes. Throwing himself quickly off the ox, 
he gave chase to the beast, calling out loudly, "Nay, stop 
a little. To-day we must, indeed, talk with each other." 
Whether the lion thought he could not escape, or that he 
considered his dignity concerned, I shall not presume to say ; 
but, at all events, he stopped to look at his pursuer. No 
sooner, however, had he turned his head, than a well-directed 
ball entered one of his eyes, and laid him low in an instant. 

After waiting at Rehoboth for about a week, I had the 
satisfaction to see my men and wagon arrive in safety. The 
cause of the delay had been the nature of the road, the great- 
er part of which consisted of a succession of sand-ridges, as 
bad as those at Scheppmansdorf The oxen were good, and 
more than sufficient to do the work ; but, from want of yokes, 
they could only make use of twelve at a time. 

The men had also been much plagued by lions. One fine 
moonlight night, just as they had unyoked at the base of a 
small sand-hill, one of these animals appeared immediately 
above. After having eyed them for a moment, he dashed in 
among the goats, and, before the men could get their guns in 
order, he was out of harm's way with one of the quadrupeds. 

At another time, a lion made a rush at the cattle when at 
pasture, who fled precipitately into a defile, where, not find- 
ing an outlet, they faced about and confronted their fierce an- 
tagonist. The beast evidently dreaded the forest of bristling 
horns ; for, after having paced to and fro at the entrance of 
the pass the best part of the night, keeping cattle and men in 
great tribulation by his savage growls, he slunk off toward 
morning. 



DISPATCH CATTLE TO THE CAPE. 351 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Dispatch Cattle to the Cape. — Terrible Thunder-storm. — Trees struck 
by Lightning, — The Nosop River. — A Comet. — The Author nearly 
poisoned. — Some of the Men abscond ; they return to their Duty. — 
Babel-like confusion of Tongues. — Game abundant. — Author shoots 
a Giraffe. — Meet Bushmen. — Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt. — Suffer- 
ings from Hunger. — Tunobis. — Game scarce. — Author and Steed 
entrapped. — Pitfalls. — The Men turn sulky. — Preparations for de- 
parture from Tunobis. — Vicious Pack-oxen. — Consequences of ex- 
cessive Fatigue. — The Jackal's handiwork. — Tracks of Elephants. 
— More Pitfalls. — Loss of the Anglo-Saxon Lion and the Swedish 
Cross. — Reach Ghanze. 

On the 1st of April I dispatched my cattle (three hundred 
and sixty in number) to the Cape, in charge of old Piet and 
Thomas Gibbons, William, and two or three Damaras. The 
first-mentioned was well accustomed to a large drove of oxen, 
and was the only one of the party in whom I had any con- 
fidence. Under such circumstances, it was perhaps natural 
that I should feel some misgivings about their safe arrival. 
But I placed my trust in that same Providence who had 
hitherto watched over the lonely stranger, firm in the con- 
viction that whatever befell me or my property (both of 
which I was about to risk in the cause of humanity and 
civilization) would be for the best. 

Fearing from experience that wagons would be only an 
incumbrance, and impede the dispatch, if not defeat the 
success of my expedition to the Ngami, I parted with them. 
As I knew, however, that the road as far as Tunobis was 
practicable for wheel carriages, I borrowed an old battered 
vehicle for the occasion, intending to send it back with Eye- 
brecht. Thence I purposed pursuing the journey with pack- 
and-ride oxen. This, though the most eligible plan, subjects 



352 TERRIBLE THUNDER-STORM. 

the traveler to much hardship and inconvenience, from ex- 
posure to the inclemency of the weather, and the very small 
stock of provisions, &c., that can be conveyed. 

Up to this period the men had worked well and willingly ; 
but the day on which I bade farewell to the hospitable mis- 
sionary roof (5th of April) Timbo became sulky, and ex- 
pressed a wish to return to the Cape, from which I had some 
difficulty in persuading him. It was the first time I had 
real cause for being dissatisfied with the man, but not the 
last. 

Four days after this little difficulty was got over, it came 
on to rain so tremendously that it seemed as if we were 
going to have another deluge. For three days and as many 
nights it continued to pour down with scarcely any inter- 
mission. The scriptural expression, "The windows of heaven 
were opened," might indeed have been here realized. Dur- 
ing the last twelve hours the thunder and lightning were 
truly appalling, and perfectly stunned and blinded us. Peal 
after peal, flash after flash, followed in rapid succession, re- 
echoed and reflected from a hundred peaks. Trees were 
broken short off" or torn up by the roots by the violence of 
the wind. 

"The clouds, 
From many a horrid rift, abortive pour'd 
Fierce rain with lightning mix'd, water with fire 
In ruin reconciled ; nor slept the winds 
Within their stony caves, but rush'd abroad 
From the four hinges of the world, and fell 
On the vexed wilderness, whose tallest pines 
(Though rooted deep as high) and sturdiest oaks 
Bow'd their stiff necks, loaden with stormy blast 
Or torn up sheer." 

The men's tent, which was secured with numerous strong 
straps to the side of the wagon, was carried bodily away, 
and men and quadrupeds were literally swimming in the tor- 
rent, which, rushing down with irresistible fury from the 




ITS EFFECTS GAME BONES ^NOSOP KIVEK. 353 

slopes of the hills, swept over our camping-ground. The 
poor dogs howled from fear and suffering. Every moment I 
expected to see the wagon capsized by the blast, or, what 
was worse, struck by lightning, as we had somewhat incau- 
tiously encamped under a kameel-doorn boom, which is one 
of the most certain of conductors. Indeed, nearly two thirds 
of the full-grown trees of this kind are found splintered by 
the electric fluid. 

So completely did this deluge saturate and swamp the lo- 
cality, that for two days after the rains had ceased we were 
unable to move ; yet such is the partial operation even of 
such thunder-storms as we had just endured, that, after trav- 
eling a day or two farther to the eastward, we all but per- 
ished from thirst, and the vegetation was parched and sun- 
burnt ! 

Our route lay through a country similar in character to 
that traveled over by Mr. Galton and myself about a year 
and a half previously in our journey to the eastward, name- 
ly, large sandy plains, richly covered with fine grass and 
brushwood, with occasional clusters of kameel- thorn- trees. 
"Water was very scarce. 

From the number of bleached bones of rhinoceroses, gi- 
raffes, and other wild beasts scattered about, it was evident 
that game had at one time been abundant in these parts ; but 
the introduction of fire-arms among the Namaquas had ei- 
ther put an end to the animals, or scared them away to less 
peopled haunts. With the exception of hyaenas and jackals, 
beasts of any size were scarce. 

In about a fortnight we reached the Nosop River, near to 
its junction with the Black Nosop. The two streams, when 
united, flow under the common name of Nosop; and, though 
nothing is known of the course of this river three days south 
of Wesley Vale, it is believed ultimately to make its way 
to the Orange River. Indeed, the fact of fish having been 
found in the pools at Elephant Fountain of similar kind to 



354 A HAPPY FAMILY COMET SICKNESS. 

those inhabiting the Garieb (the Orange) River strengthens 
the supposition. 

I had ordered Eyebrecht to meet me on the Nosop, and I 
found him in company with a handsome Griqua girl, whom 
he had married according to the fashion of the Namaquas. 
The union bade fair to be a fruitful one, for the happy couple 
were already blessed with an infant. The face of the tawny- 
complexioned husband was beaming with paternal pride and 
satisfaction. He was living with his father-in-law (Jan 
Zaal), a great hunter, with whom I also took up my quarters 
for a short time. The people were exceedingly kind to me, 
and remarkably clean and neat in all their household ar- 
rangements. Besides, I enjoyed an unlimited supply of sweet 
and sour milk, both of which I greatly relished. 

During my stay on the Nosop I observed for several nights 
a remarkable comet. On the last of April, about eight 
o'clock in the evening, when about to set, the latitude being 
23° S., it bore 296° by compass. 

Having engaged my host's son, Klaas Zaal, to accompany 
me as a wagon-driver as far as Tunobis, whence he and Eye- 
brecht were to return, I was again on the move on the after- 
noon of the 4th of May. For a day or two we followed the 
right bank of the White Nosop, and then crossed over to the 
other branch, where, in order to explore the road before us, 
we rested a couple of days. 

Having proceeded one morning in search of game, I be- 
came very hungry, and, observing an inviting bean-looking 
fruit, I ate greedily of it, but it nearly cost me my life. I 
was seized with giddiness, vomiting, and racking pains, and 
arrived in a staggering and bewildered state at our camp, 
completely exhausted. I then learned that the pulse I had 
eaten was, in a raw state, highly deleterious, but if cooked, 
could not alone be eaten with impunity, but was really bene- 
ficial. 

Almost from my first entrance into the country, thinking 



SOME OF THE SERVANTS ABSCOND INTERPRETEES. 355 

that I might one day be obliged to live on Bushman diet, I 
partook eagerly of every root, bulb, berry, &c., that grew wild 
about the country, but always (with the exception of the 
above instance) took the precaution first to ascertain from the 
natives its properties. I derived benefit from this plan ; for, 
when ordinary food failed me, I could at all events contrive 
to exist for a time on this rude fare. 

On returning one day to the camp from a fatiguing hunt, 
I found that all my Damaras had absconded. I was aston- 
ished and vexed beyond measure, for the greater part had 
been long in my employ, and had proved themselves very 
faithful. One of them had, only the day previously, been 
telling me that, unless I drove him forcibly away, he would 
never abandon me, but would share my fortune, whether good 
or bad. I soon discovered that Timbo had caused the de- 
fection. I had appointed him head man of the servants ; but 
he being dark-complexioned, the Damaras did not like to be 
ruled by one so much resembling themselves. 

In the first burst of anger I declared I would do without 
them, and that I would punish them severely on my return. 
A moment's reflection, however, convinced me that, both for 
my own sake, and by way of example for the remainder of 
the men, it was necessary, if possible, to bring them back to 
their duty. Eyebrecht was accordingly dispatched on this 
errand. After several days' absence he returned with the 
runaways, and as they looked penitent, I thought it best to 
pass the offense quietly over, and say nothing. 

At Twass, the head-quarters of Lambert, Amral's eldest 
son — a chief of even greater importance than his father — I 
was joined by Piet, the Griqua, who was to accompany me 
to the Lake in the capacity of interpreter. He knew the 
Bechuana language tolerably well, and, as a matter of course, 
spoke Dutch fluently. Onesimus also knew a smattering of 
this last tongue, and was perfect in the Damara and Nama- 
qua. Louis was pretty well versed in Portuguese and the 



356 NEW ROUTE EYEBRECHT UNHORSED. 

different dialects of the countries bordering upon the settle- 
ments about the Mozambique Channel. Personally, I could 
make myself understood in more than one European lan- 
guage ; and this Babel-like confusion was completed by Tim- 
bo's patois. 

The preceding year, when our steps were pointed in the 
same direction as at present, we traveled on the summit of 
the low range of hills which take their rise near to Twass, 
extending eastward. We were then on saddle-oxen ; but, 
from what we saw of the country, we deemed it nearly im- 
practicable for wagons. I therefore determined to strike 
through the woods at the base of the hills in question, or 
along the valley intervening between them and another 
mountain range running in the same direction. The soil 
proved exceedingly soft and yielding, and the bushes harass- 
ing ; yet this new route was preferable to the other. 

We saw a good deal of game, chiefly of the larger kinds ; 
but the animals were wary, and I shot badly. My horse 
was so unsteady as to be of little or no use. His speed was 
great ; he was a match for the swiftest antelope ; but when 
I fired from his back, he was very apt to start on one side. 
If his rider, at such times, was not on his guard, the chances 
were in favor of his being dismounted. One day Eyebrecht 
begged eagerly to be allowed to try his hand on the giraffes, 
which abounded in this locality. His request was granted, 
and I lent him my horse, though we well knew what would 
be the result. After nearly a whole day's absence, he re- 
turned, when the men hailed him with shouts of laughter, as 
his appearance too plainly indicated his misfortunes. But, 
notwithstanding his flushed face and torn and soiled dress, 
he stoutly denied having been thrown. It so happened, how- 
ever, that the very next day we passed a spot where he had 
been chasing a herd of giraffes, and where we could distinct- 
ly see the marks of how the scared horse had been dragging 
Eyebrecht along the ground for a considerable distance. 



A FEAST AND A FAST UNSUCCESSFUL ELEPHANT-HUNT. 357 

On arriving at Elephant Kloof we had better success. 
My first prize consisted of a magnificent giraffe, which 
dropped dead to the first shot — the only instance I recol- 
lected of killing this animal outright with a single bullet. I 
never before or since (excepting, perhaps, a cow-elephant) 
saw so fat an animal. The flesh was delicious, and I thought 
my men would kill themselves by gorging. Indeed, Bonfield 
became seriously ill, and for a whole week was unable to 
take nourishment of any description, not even coffee. Ev- 
ery thing he tried to swallow was instantly rejected. At one 
time I became apprehensive for his safety. My Griqua guide 
also got indisposed from feeding too heartily on an oily os- 
trich. 

From the midst of abundance we were, or rather I was, 
soon reduced to the other extreme. When half way to Ot- 
jombinde we encountered some Bushmen, who persuaded me 
to go in search of elephants, which they said abounded at no 
great distance. A person might visit the place they frequent- 
ed, and come back the same day. Having hastily made a 
few arrangements, I set out, but, foolishly relying on their 
statements, provided myself with only one small slice of raw 
flesh, which, after a while, in the full anticipation of a quick 
and successful return, I gave to the half-starved " children 
of the desert." I was sadly out of reckoning, however, for, 
instead of it being merely a few hours to the water in ques- 
tion, we traveled a whole day at a brisk pace before reaching 
our destination. 

We were now at the beginning of the cold season, and the 
nights had already attained a very low temperature. The 
day had been oppressively hot, we had journeyed rapidly, 
and, in the hurry, I had come away without my coat. As 
evening set in I felt a deadly chill stealing over me, and 
though we found fuel, I deemed it necessary to do with as 
little fire as possible, for fear of alarming the elephants, should 
they make their appearance. Thrusting my head into a bush, 



358 SUFFERINGS FROM HUNGER. 

and bundling the rest of my body in as small a compass as 
was possible, I spent a long and comfortless night. 

At break of day we were stirring. On arriving at the wa- 
ter, which was not far distant from our bivouac, we had the 
satisfaction to discover the fresh tracks of elephants, but out 
of the troop that had visited the place there was only one 
bull. His tracks were of course selected in preference to the 
rest, but, though we followed them perseveringly till near 
sunset, all our endeavors to come up with the animal proved 
vain. 

Hungry, disheartened, and exhausted, we retraced our steps 
to the bivouac, where we spent another still more cheerless 
night. Two days had now elapsed without my having tasted 
a morsel of food, nor did I obtain any until I reached my own 
people at the expiration of the third day.* 

During the last twelve hours, I am free to confess, I was 
almost ravenous enough to eat my shoe-soles, and probably 
might have done so had time and opportunity permitted to 
boil them down to a jelly. Contrary to custom, the field we 
had traversed was destitute of eatables of any sort. Once, 
indeed, I observed a small antelope, but the animal only seem- 
ed to mock our sufferings, for, before I could level my piece, 
he vanished. Seeing the Bushmen try to appease their hun- 
ger with a bitter woody substance, I could not resist the 
temptation to taste it, though warned of the consequences ; 
but scarcely had I masticated the first mouthful before I 
was seized with tormenting nausea and sickness. 

From our great success on a former occasion at Tunobis, 
I expected to find full employment for my rifle on my ar- 
rival there. But, alas ! now that we stood so much in need 
of animal food, not a wild beast was to be seen. At first, 

* On accidentally mentioning my fast to Captain Sturt, the distin- 
guished Australian traveler, he assured me it was a mere trifle to what 
he himself had once suffered, having been six and a half consecutive 
days without nourishment of any kind ! 



THE GUNS ALL BEWITCHED A DILEMMA. 359 

one might almost be led to imagine that the amazing num- 
ber i^ of animals congregated here less than two years before 
must be either killed or driven altogether away from the lo- 
cality ; but this was not the case. Water was still to be 
found in the vleys and pools at some distance, and, until 
these were exhausted, wild animals were little likely to visit 
a spot where they were subject to constant persecution. 

One or two rhinoceroses, however, occasionally visited the 
fountains, as appeared by their tracks. These I determined 
to watch, while I dispersed my men over the adjoining coun- 
try in search of game. One night a huge animal came wad- 
dling along, but, though I lodged a ball in its body, it was to 
no purpose. The men were equally unsuccessful, and re- 
turned, after several days' absence, half starved, and, conse- 
quently, as ravenous as wolves. They had encountered sev- 
eral rhinoceroses, zebras, &c., but they only wounded or 
mangled the poor beasts. It seemed as if every gun, mine 
included, had been bewitched, 

Tunobis, as often stated in the preceding pages, was the 
farthest easterly point which Galton and myself had attain- 
ed in our journey toward the Ngami. Every inch of the 
ground ahead was now unknown to Europeans at least. 
The Bushmen, it is true, had furnished us with some infor- 
mation, but it was either too vague to be relied upon, or not 
applicable to the course I intended to pursue. Knowing 
nearly the position of the Lake, I was anxious to take as 
straight a line as possible ; but, on consulting the few natives 
hereabout, they declared that, were I to do so, it would be 
certain destruction to myself and cattle, inasmuch as the 
" field" in that direction was one howling wilderness, totally 
destitute of water. By traveling southward, however, for a 
few stages along the sandy and dry water-course of Otjom- 
binde, I should, they said, run no risk. I was quite at a loss 
to know how far I could depend on their information ; but 
Piet, the interpreter, who had crossed the Kalahari in tlie be- 



360 THE PITFALL. 

ginning of the rainy season, having corroborated their story, 
I no longer hesitated to follow their advice. 

Before finally quitting Tunobis, an incident occurred which 
bade fair to finish my career in this world. Cantering along 
one day in the bed of the River Otjombinde, with a view of 
ascertaining its course, I all at once found myself on the very 
verge of a pitfall ! but it was too late, for at the moment I 
was about to rein in my horse, down we both went together, 
with a fearful crash, through the light net-work of sticks and 
grass that covered it, to the bottom of the gulf, which could 
not have been less than ten feet in depth, though happily 
without either of us breaking our necks. 

This pitfall was specially intended for the giraffe, which 
abounded hereabout, and was very different in construction 
from those in use for elephants, rhinoceroses, and other large 
animals ; for, instead of a single cavity, it was divided into 
two compartments, separated from each other by a wall of 
earth. Though I never before knew the meaning of this pe- 
culiar arrangement, it was soon explained. My horse, having 
recovered somewhat from his surprise and the stunning ef- 
fects of the fall, plunged violently forward, and endeavored 
to leap the wall in question ; but he only got his fore quar- 
ters over it, and the depth of the hole preventing him from 
touching the ground either with his fore or hind feet, his 
whole weight rested on his belly, and thus suspended be- 
tween earth and heaven, he became totally helpless. 

Seeing that the poor animal could not possibly live long 
in this position, and that I was too far from camp to return 
for assistance, I unhesitatingly sprang back into the pit from 
which I had just extricated myself, and placing my shoulders 
under his chest (my feet resting against the side of the pit to 
give me a better leverage), I exerted all my strength, and 
succeeded in pushing him back into the compartment in which 
he had been originally deposited. Finding that he was about 
to renew the plunge, I seized the bridle with my left hand 



THE PITFALL RELEASE. 



36; 



and held his head forcibly down, while with my right hand, 
and by the aid of a stick that I picked up, I scraped away 
the soil on one side of the pit so that it became in a degree 
an inclined plane ; with my feet I also so far leveled the 
wall that it formed a kind of platform. This matter being 
arranged, I laid myself on my back on the edge of the pit and 
pulled stoutly at the bridle. The horse understood me, for 
with a violent jerk of his body he sprang on to the platform, 
and next to the inclined plane, where for a moment he near- 
ly lost his equilibrium, but at last successfully cleared the 
abyss. 

The poor brute was so sensible of the danger he had es- 
caped that, on finding himself on firm ground, he uttered a 
wild, half-suppressed neighing, or rather scream, and con- 
tinued to tremble violently for several minutes. On examin- 
ing him, I found he had sustained no farther injury than 
the loss of a few inches of skin and a quantity of hair. As 




PITFALLS. 



Q 



362 GAME-PITS ENDURANCE OF THE NATIVES. 

for myself, I escaped with a violent twist of the neck, which 
inconvenienced me slightly for a few days. 

Almost all the tribes of Southern Africa avail themselves 
of pitfalls (often on a most gigantic scale) for the capture of 
game. These traps, or rather these lines of pitfalls, are either 
constructed in the shape of very obtuse triangles, open at the 
base and gradually tapering to a point, where a single, double, 
or treble row of pits are dug, into which the game is driven 
by shouts or yells, or they are formed in the shape of a cres- 
cent — often miles in extent — usually shutting out a valley 
or defile, with pits at every fifty or a hundred paces apart, 
artfully concealed with grass, sand, &c., the intervening spaces 
being planted and filled up with stout palisades, closely inter- 
woven with boughs and branches of thorn-trees. 

The Hill-Damaras are remarkable for the perseverance 
and industry they exhibit in the construction of game-pits. 
From want of proper tools, the trees have first to be burnt 
down and then carried on men's shoulders to their destina- 
tion, and when we add to this that the task is frequently ex- 
ecuted in the most arid districts — the haunts of the gemsbok, 
the eland, the koodoo, and other tenants of the wilds, who 
are capable of existing more or less without water for long 
periods — it is easy to imagine the labor and fatigue of the 
process. 

On counting over the different articles of my baggage, I 
found that at least nine or ten oxen would be required to 
carry them, in addition to those necessary for myself and 
men to ride upon. Almost all my cattle were young, and 
only half broken-in, and there was scarcely time for further 
training. To save all trouble, I felt inclined to push on with 
the old wagon ; but, for more than one reason, the idea was 
quickly abandoned. I worked night and day, but was much 
harassed. Through carelessness, the hyaenas were allowed 
to devour the skins intended for pack "riems" and divers 
minor articles. The men were lazy, stubborn, and ill-humor- 



SERVANT PUNISHED ^PEEPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 363 

ed, and I was kept constantly on the rack by their annoy- 
ances. One day I was obliged to resort to the very unusual 
measure of flogging Onesimus, who by this time thought 
himself too civilized to need correction. Indeed, they were 
all more or less of this opinion, and wanted their dismissal. 
Having always been kind and considerate toward my men — 
too much so, perhaps — I felt disgusted at their ingratitude, 
and exclaimed, rather passionately, "Yes; go, cowards! go 
and tell your friends that you have left your master in the des- 
ert to the mercy of wild beasts and savage men ; go and exult. 
Your conduct shall not prevent me from persevering in my 
plans." On more mature consideration, however, they thought 
better of it, and again returned to their duty with a good 
will. 

After many delays and the most strenuous exertions, ev- 
ery thing was at length in readiness for a start. Before set- 
ting off, I wrote to some of my friends at the Cape, and also 
a letter or two to Europe, intrusting them to Eyebrecht, who 
returned forthwith to Walfisch Bay. 

At noon of the 14th of June we assembled pur oxen and 
began to pack ; but, though we labored till our heads turned 
giddy and our arms were paralyzed, we made but slow prog- 
ress. No sooner had we finished arranging the burden of 
one ox than another threw off his pack. It is utterly im- 
possible for those who have never had ocular demonstration 
of this kind of work with half- wild cattle to understand the 
difficulty, and imagine the ludicrous scenes that take place. 
I have already given a faint sketch of the process of training 
oxen, from which the reader may glean some notion of the 
obstacles to be surmounted, bearing in mind, at the same 
time, that instead of a single ox we had ten to load, besides 
those on which we were mounted, and which were not the 
most manageable. 

At last we were off; but the day was then so far advanced 
that we were unable to accomplish more than seven or eight 



364 TIRED OUT— LAUGHED AT BY A JACKAL. 

miles before we found it necessary to make a halt and biv- 
ouac for the night. We were so thoroughly knocked up with 
the severe labor of the day, that after having hastily removed 
the packs from the vicious beasts, we literally dropped to 
sleep where we stood, not one of the party giving a thought 
as to food, fire, water, or covering, of each and all of which 
we stood greatly in need. 

On returning to consciousness the following morning, the 
first object that met my half-sleepy gaze was a jackal, busily 
engaged examining our baggage. Having no gun within 
reach, I threw a handful of sand at the impudent fellow, on 
which he saluted me with a mocking laugh, and slowly re- 
treated. But had I then been aware of the full extent of his 
mischievous propensities, he should certainly not have es- 
caped so easy. The brute had, indeed, devoured one of the 
" riems" with which we secured the packs on the oxen. 
Nothing could possibly have been more unfortunate ; the 
thong was, at that time, worth its weight in gold. We had 
ten oxen to pack, and only nine " riems !" Here, then, was 
a fine opportunity for a man to exert his ingenuity. It was 
totally out of the question to divide any of the remaining 
straps, for they were short and narrow enough already, and 
they must be of a certain length and solidity in order to serve 
the purpose effectually. At length, however, and after much 
searching, patching, and splicing, a very indifferent substitute 
was produced, and we were again en route, though not be- 
fore I had, for the fiftieth time, vowed dire vengeance against 
the whole race of jackals. 

This day (May 15th) we proceeded alternately in the bed 
and on the borders of the Otjombinde River. The soil con- 
sisted of fine white sand, reflecting a light dazzling and pain- 
ful to the eyes, while it was soft and yielding to the feet. 
The grass was still green and very plentiful, and the vegeta- 
tion, in general, was rank. We passed several vleys contain- 
ing small quantities of muddy water, alive with loathsome 



m 



SAND-WELLS IN THE DESERT. 365 

reptiles; and, in some places, the wallowing of elephants and 
rhinoceroses had converted it into a substance not unlike a 
mass of well-kneaded dough, heaving with insect life, and 
tinted and variegated by the stains of larger animals. Yet 
we drank, or rather gulped it v^ith avidity ! 

We encountered also a vast number of" sand- wells," vary- 
ing from one to three fathoms in depth, with an average di- 
ameter at the top of twenty feet. The construction of these 
pits indicated great perseverance and skill, and had evidently 
been formed by a pastoral people possessed of large herds of 
cattle. No European would have ever dreamed of looking 
for water in such localities, since it usually lay ten feet below 
the surface of the ground, which gave no indication whatever 
of its presence. Not having been used or kept in repair for 
many a long year, several were partially filled with sand, 
but the greater portions were still in tolerable order. They 
contained no standing water, but plenty of moisture ; and, 
by inserting a reed — the plan adopted by the Bushmen when 
the liquid will not flow — enough to quench a person's thirst 
was generally obtained. Elephants had been at work in 
many, but were clearly disappointed. 

About sunset we came to a large vley where a troop of 
elephants had evidently only a short time previously been 
enjoying themselves. This circumstance put my men on the 
qui Vive; and my Griqua interpreter, who was one of the 
most chicken-hearted of beings, took good care to magnify 
the danger of encountering these animals at night. He de- 
clared that it was absolutely necessary to come to a halt; 
but this did not suit my purpose at all. I assured my men 
that elephants, if left unmolested, were very timid and civil 
beasts, and that, no doubt, if we met them and only gave 
them room to pass, they would in all probability treat us 
with equal courtesy. This having in some degree quieted 
their apprehensions, we proceeded till about nine o'clock, 
when we unloaded the tired oxen and camped for the night. 



366 THE BIVOUAC MOKE PITFALLS SPORT. 

As for ourselves, though much fatigued, we took the pre- 
caution to provide security from all skulking night-prowlers c 
By a roaring fire, and over a hearty supper, we forgot the 
miseries of the day, and, in the firm anticipation of success, 
cheerfully resigned our weary limbs to sleep. 

At an early hour the next morning we were on the move. 
The air being cool, we proceeded briskly. About noon some 
Bushmen were observed digging roots ; but they only allowed 
us to approach within shouting distance. We managed, how- 
ever, to hold some little conversation with them, and learned 
that water was not far off. They warned us to proceed with 
caution, as the whole river-bed in advance was undermined 
with pitfalls. And true enough ; for, before being aware of 
it, we found ourselves entrapped in a maze of yawning chasms, 
down some of which bipeds and quadrupeds went together in 
the most amicable confusion. However, being partially pre- 
pared for the event, and traveling at a slow pace, we escaped 
with a few bruises. To prevent a recurrence of the mischief, 
a man or two proceeded in advance, and unmasked the re- 
mainder. They were constructed on the same principle as 
the one into which I had a short time previously been so un- 
ceremoniously precipitated. 

At two o'clock P.M. we came to a halt by a well of clear, 
good water. Within gunshot of this place was a " salt-lick," 
much frequented by wild animals, such as rhinoceroses, gi- 
raffes, gemsboks, koodoos, elands, gnoos, &c. ; but I prefer- 
red to devote the ensuing night to rest and astronomical ob- 
servations rather than lying in ambush for game. 

At an after period I had some good sport in this locality, 
as also some spirited chases after elands. But space prevents 
me from entering into details. 

The Otjombinde, without materially taking us out of our 
direct route, had thus far befriended us ; but, if I wished to 
reach the Lake, it was now out of the question any longer to 
follow this river, as hence it pursued too southerly a course. 




LOSS OF THE " LION" AND THE "CROSS." 367 

According to the advice of the Bushmen, therefore, we now 
left it to the right, and struck out in a nortlierly direction 
through an intensely dense " Wacht-een-bigte" (thorn-jun- 
gle). After a few hours' travel, "we packed-off" to the 
eastward of some dilapidated limestone pits ; but, though they 
contained water, from the depth of the cavities, and the dif- 
ficulty of access to them, it occupied the men several hours 
to supply the wants of our small herd of cattle. The next 
stage — a short one — we slept without water. 

In the course of the following day's march we had tra- 
versed dense brakes which annoyed us excessively, for the 
thorns not only tore our flesh and clothes, but subtracted 
several articles of value from the pack-saddles. Among other 
losses, I had to bewail that of two magnificent flags — the 
British and the Swedish — which had been expressly made 
for and presented to me by my friend, Mr. Letterstedt, the 
Swedish consul-general at the Cape, and which I hoped to 
have unfurled on the shores of the far-famed Ngami. All my 
efforts to recover these valued standards proved fruitless, some 
hyaenas having probably swallowed the Anglo-Saxon Lion 
and the Swedish Cross. 

At dusk, after having been ten hours in the saddle, we 
reached a famous place called Ghanze, where we pitched oui^ 
camp. 



368 GHANZE. 



CHAPTEE XXX. 

Ghanze. — Spotted Hyaena. — The Ehinoceros. — Where found. — Sev- 
eral Species. — Description of Rhinoceros. — Size. — Appearance. — 
Age. — Strength. — Speed. — Food. — "Water. — The Young. — Affec- 
tion. — Senses. — Disposition. — Gregarious. — Indolence. — Domesti- 
cation. — Flesh. — Horns. — The Chase. — Mr. Oswell's Adventures 
with Rhinoceroses. — A Crotchet. — Where to aim at the Rhinoce- 
ros. — Does not bleed externally when wounded. — Great numbers 
slain annually. 

Ghanze, according to the interpretation of my Griqua, 
signifies very large, and jet very small. Absurd as this ex- 
planation may appear, there is, nevertheless, some aptness in 
it. The "very large" means that from the moisture of the 
ground there is an indication of much water, while the real 
quantity is trifling. Ghanze is a peculiar and dreary-look- 
ing place, consisting of an extensive hollow with innumera- 
ble small stones scattered over its surface, and one side fenced 
by a natural limestone wall three to five feet in height. The 
whole is hemmed in with thorn coppices intersected by nu- 
merous footpaths, the work of those huge creatures, the ele- 
phant and the rhinoceros, who have probably wandered here 
for ages in undisputed sway. Here and there an " iron-tree," 
the mythological progenitor of the Damaras, stands majestic- 
ally forth, shooting its wide-spreading branches high into 
space. 

Ghanze, it would appear, has been long known to the Be- 
chuanas and the Griquas. A party of the latter, I was told, 
reached it many years previously to my arrival in a despair- 
ing state, having been obliged to abandon their wagons in the 
Kalahari. The body of men from whom I obtained my in- 
terpreter had also visited it. It had even been frequented by 



THE SPOTTED HYiENA HOW MUTILATED? 369 

Europeans. An English traveler, Moyle, crossed the desert 
in safety, and arrived at Ghanze in 1852, on a trading and 
hunting expedition. From this place he was guided by 
Bushmen to Great Namaqua-land, whence he retraced his 
steps home. The year after this he again crossed the desert, 
though under unfavorable circumstances, having, with the 
exception of two horses, lost all his beasts of burden, as also 
his servants, some of whom died from want. 

Almost the first animal I saw at this place was a gigantic 
"tiger-wolf," or spotted hyaena, which, to my surprise, in- 
stead of seeking safety in flight, remained stationary, grin- 
ning in the most ghastly manner. Having approached with- 
in twenty paces, I perceived, to my horror, that his fore 
paws, and the skin and flesh of his front legs, had been gnaw- 
ed away, and that he could scarcely move from the spot. 
To shorten the sufferings of the poor beast, I seized my op- 
portunity and knocked him on the head with a stone, and, 
catching him by the tail, drove my hunting knife deep into 
his side ; but I had to repeat the operation more than once 
before I xjould put an end to his existence. I am at a loss 
how to account for his mangled condition. It certainly could 
not have been from age, for his teeth were good. Could it 
be possible that, from want of food, he had become too weak 
for further exertions, and that, as a last resource, he had at« 
tacked his own body ? or was he an example of that extra- 
ordinary species of cruelty said to be practiced by the lion on 
the hyaena when the latter has the insolence to interfere with 
the monarch's prey 1* 

Fortune once again favored us ; for, in the course of the 
few days we remained at Ghanze, several rhinoceroses were 
shot, affording an abundance of provisions. These animals 
were very numerous, but rather shy. One night I counted 

* It is asserted by more than one experienced hunter, that when 
the hyaena proves troublesome, the lion has been known to bite off all 
its feet, and, thus mutilated, leave the poor animal to its fate ! 

Q2 



370 RHINOCEROSES DIFFERENT SPECIES. 

twenty defiling past me, though beyond reach. The cause 
of so unusual a number being seen together was as follows : 
In the early part of the night, one or two were approaching 
the water, but, having winded me, they kept walking rest= 
lessly round the place, grunting and snorting most viciously. 
This had the effect of putting those who arrived later on 
guard, and they soon joined company. 

Of all the South African animals, not the least curious, 
perhaps, is the rhinoceros. He inhabits a large portion of 
the African continent — such localities, at least, as are suita- 
ble to his habits. Formerly, as before mentioned, he was 
common even in the immediate vicinity of Cape-Town ; but, 
owing to constant persecution, is now rarely met farther to 
the southward (I speak of the West Coast) than about the 
twenty-third degree of latitude. In the interior, however, 
the tribe is still very numerous. " On one occasion," says 
Captain Harris, in a private letter, "while walking from the 
wagons to bring the head of a koodoo that I had killed about 
a mile off, I encountered twenty-two rhinoceroses, and had 
to shoot four of them to clear the way." 

The rhinoceros is, moreover, an inhabitant of Bengal, 
Siam, China, and other countries of Asia ; also of Java, 
Sumatra, and Ceylon. But the three species* indigenous to 
this quarter of the globe would seem to be quite different 
from any yet found in Africa. Almost all the Asiatic species 
have an exceedingly coarse hide, covered with large folds, not 
unlike a coat of mail, while that of the African species is 
comparatively smooth. Two of the Indian rhinoceroses have 
only one horn, whereas all the African are provided with 
two.f The third Asiatic species, which is found in the isl- 

* Rhinoceros Indicus, Rhinoceros Sondaicus, and Rhinoceros Bicomis 
Sumatrensis. 

t I have met persons who told me that they have killed jrhinoceroses 
with three horns ; but in all such cases (and they have been but few), 
the third, or posterior horn is so small as to be scarcely perceptible. 



HEADS OF RHINOCEROSES. 



371 



and of Sumatra, resembles the African in having two horns, 
but in other respects differs considerably. 

Though the rhinoceros is abundant in the interior of Af- 




HEADS OF EHINOCEEOSES. 



rica, it is described as far more numerous in Asia, and as less 
generally distributed than the elephant. 

Four distinct species of rhinoceroses are known to exist in 
South Africa, two of which are of a dark color, and two of a 
whitish hue. Hence they are usually designated the " black" 
and the " white" rhinoceros. 

One of the two species of ''black" — -the Borele, as it is 
called by the Bechuanas — -is the common small black rhinoc- 

* The above wood-cut is a rough but characteristic outline of the 
heads of the four distinct species of rhinoceroses recognized as indig- 
enous to Africa. The two lowest heads in the sketch are those of 
^he " black." 



372 



HORNS OF RHINOCEROS OSWELLH. 



eros {rhinoceros hicornis)\ the other, the Keitloa {rhinoceros 
Keitloa), or the two-horned black rhinoceros, as it is also 
termed by naturalists. The latter differs from the Borele in 
being somewhat larger, with a longer neck; in having the 
horns of nearly equal length, with a lesser number of wrinkles 
about the head ; and it is of a more wild and morose disposi- 
tion. The upper lip of both (more especially in the Keitloa) 
is pointed, overlaps the lower, and is capable of extension. 
It is pliable, and the animal can move it from side to side, 
twist it round a stick, collect its food, or seize with it any 
thing it would carry to its mouth. Both species are ex- 
tremely fierce, and, excepting the buffalo, are perhaps the 
most dangerous of all the beasts in Southern Africa. 

Of the white species, we have the common white rhinoc- 
eros {rhinoceros simus, Burch.), called Monoohoo by the Be- 
chuanas, and the Kobaaba {rhinocei^os Osweliii, Grray), or long- 




nORXS OP RHINOCKROS OSWELLII. 



DESCRIPTION OF RHINOCEROS. 373 

horned white rhinoceros.* It is with regard to their horns 
that the two species chiefly differ from each other ; for while 
the anterior horn of the Monoohoo has an average length of 
two or three feet, curving backward, that of the Kobaaba 
not unfrequently exceeds four feet, and is slightly pointed for- 
ward, inclining from the snout at about an angle of forty-five 
degrees. This rhinoceros is also the rarer of the two, and is 
only found in the more interior parts of South Africa. 

The chief distinguishing characteristics of the white rhi- 
noceros are its superior size, the extraordinary prolongation 
of its head, which is not far from one third of the whole 
length of the animal's body, its square nose (hence also 
designated i' square-nosed rhinoceros"), and the greater length 
of the anterior horns. 

The " black" and the " white" rhinoceros, though so nearly 
allied to each other, differ widely in their mode of living, 
habits, &c. The chief sustenance of the former animal con- 
sists of the roots of certain bushes, which it plows up with 
its strong horn, and the shoots and tender boughs of the 
"wait-a-bit" thorn; while the "white" rhinoceros, on the 
contrary, feeds solely on grasses. 

In disposition, also, there is a marked distinction between 
them ; for while the " black" is of a very savage nature, the 

* Only the horns of this species have been described by naturalists.. 
Dr. Gray, of the British Museum, seems to be one of the first who 
drew attention to the Kobaaba as a distinct rhinoceros. In the " Pro- 
ceedings of the Zoological Society," No. ccl., p. 46, the following de- 
tails appear. They were obtained from a pair of horns (of which the 
wood-cut in the opposite page is an excellent likeness) presented by Mr. 
Oswell to Colonel Thomas Steele, of Upper Brook Street : 

"The front horn is elongated and thick ; but, instead of being' bent 
back, as is the general character of J?, bicornis, or erect, as in R. simus, 
it is bent forward, so that the upper surface is worn flat by being rubbed 
against the ground. The front horn is thirty-one inches long, flat, 
square, rough and fibrous in front, rounded and smooth behind. The 
hinder horn, eleven inches in length, is short, conical, and sub-quad- 
rangular." 



374 DESCRIPTION OF RHINOCEROS. 

"white," on the other hand, is of a comparatively mild dis- 
position, and, unless in defense of its young, or when hotly 
pursued, or wounded, will rarely attack a man. 
• The body of the rhinoceros is long and thick ; its belly is 
large, and hangs near the ground ; its legs are short, round, 
and very strong ; and its hoofs are divided into three parts, 
each pointing forward. The head, which is remarkably 
formed, is large ; the ears are long and erect ; its eyes small 
and sunk. The horns, which are composed of a mass of fine 
longitudinal threads or laminae, forming a beautifully hard 
and solid substance, are not affixed to the skull, but merely 
attached to the skin, resting, however, in some degree, on a 
bony protuberance above the nostrils. It is belicYed by many 
that, when the animal is at rest, the horns are soft and pli- 
able, but that, when on the move, they at once become hard 
and solid. Moreover, that it can, at will, turn the posterior 
horn, the other horn meanwhile remaining firm and erect ; 
but there can scarcely be sufficient foundation for such no- 
tions. 

In size the African rhinoceros — the white species, at least 
— is only exceeded by the elephant. A full-grown male {H. 
simus) measures from the snout to the extremity of the tail 
(which is about two feet) between fourteen and sixteen feet, 
with a circumference often or twelve. To judge from these 
data, and the general bulkiness of the body, it can not weigh 
less than from four to five thousand pounds. In our " bush- 
cuisine" we reckoned one of these animals equal to three 
good-sized oxen. 

The general appearance of the African rhinoceros is not 
unlike that of an immense hog shorn of his hair, or, rather, 
bristles, for, with the exception of a tuft at the extremity of 
the ears and the tail, it has no hair whatever ; and, as if in 
mockery of its giant form, its eyes are ludicrously small — so 
small, indeed, that at a short distance th^ are impercepti- 
ble. Altogether, what with its huge body, misshapen head, 



AGE STRENGTH SPEED FOOD. 375 

ungainly legs and feet, and diminutive organs of vision, the 
rhinoceros is the very image of ugliness. 

I have no data that would enable me to determine the age 
of this animal, but if we are to judge from the length of time 
that the horns require to be perfected, and supposing the an- 
imal to continue to grow in the mean while, it may be safe- 
ly conjectured that he is one of the most long-lived of beasts. 
Indeed, it is probable he attains the age of one hundred 
years. 

In strength the rhinoceros is scarcely inferior to the ele- 
phant. Of its prodigious power sufficient evidence was 
shown in the manner in which it charged the missionary 
wagon, as mentioned at page 50 of this volume. It is on 
record, moreover, that the rhinoceros which Emanuel, King 
of Portugal, sent to the Pope in the year 1513, destroyed, in 
a paroxysm of fury, the vessel in which he was transported. 

Ungainly and heavy as the rhinoceros looks, it is, never- 
theless, so exceedingly swift of foot — at least as regards the 
black species — "that a horse with a rider," to quote the 
words of Gordon Gumming, " can rarely manage to overtake 
it." The testimony of Captain Harris is to the like effect ; 
for, when speaking of the chase of this animal, and after tell- 
ing us that it is most difficult to kill, he says, "From its 
clumsy appearance, one would never suppose it could dart 
about as it does, like lightning." 

The food of the rhinoceros consists entirely, as mentioned, 
of vegetables, shoots of trees, grasses, &c. It is fond of the 
sugar-cane, and eats all kinds of grain ;* but it does not seem 
to be a voracious feeder. Indeed, it would appear to be 
somewhat fastidious in the selection of its food, in search of 
which it wanders far and wide. 

* The Asiatic specimen in the Zoological Gardens, Kegent's Park, 
is fed on clover, straw, rice, and bran. His daily allowance is one 
truss of straw, three quarters of a truss of clover, one quart of rice, 
half a bushel of bran, and twenty to twenty-four gallons of water. 



376 



WATER ^YOUNG BREEDING SIZE. 




Water is indispensable to the rhinoceros, and, even if his 
usual haunts be distant from the fountain, he seeks it at least 
once in the course of the twenty-four hours, as well to quench 
his thirst as to wallow in the mud, with which his body is 
frequently incrusted, leaving to the thirsty traveler nothing 
but a mass of well-kneaded dough. 

^^- 7 P 

FCETUS OP EHINOCEEOS KEITLOA- 

Little seems to be known of the breeding habits of this 
animal : whether it lives in monogamy, or has a plurality of 
wives, and so forth. It appears certain, however, that the 
female only produces one young at a birth, and that, too, at 
considerable intervals. During the first month, the young 
rhinoceros exceeds not the size of a large dog, with the mer- 
est indication of horns. A complete and full-grown foetus 
of ^. Keitloa that I once obtained measured thus : 

Length of body (from tip of nose, over the head, and pt. in. 

along the back) to insertion of tail 3 6 

Length of tail 10 

Circumference of body behind shoulder 2 4 

" neck 1 6 

" head (across the eyes) 1 8 

Height at the shoulder 2 1 

Length of head between ears and eyes 4^ 

Breadth " " " 4 

" " " eyes (corner nearest nostrils) 7 



HORNS HEARING SMELL SIGHT DISPOSITION. 377 

At the age of two years the horn is said to be not more 
than an inch long ; at six years old it is nine or ten inches 
long, and grows, as seen in the white species, to the length 
of three or four feet. 

The rhinoceros is a very affectionate mother, and guards 
her offspring with the tenderest care. The young, in its turn, 
clings dotingly to its dam, and, even for a day or two after 
the latter has been killed, the calf is frequently found along- 
side the carcass. Several instances of the kind have come 
under my personal notice, and many others are to be found 
in the records of African travelers and hunters. 

The sense of hearing and smell of this animal is most 
acute. I have had numerous opportunities of testing both 
these qualities. Even when feeding, lying down, or obeying 
any passing demand of nature, he will listen with a deep and 
continued attention until the noise that has attracted his at- 
tention ceases. He " winds" an enemy from a very great dis- 
tance ; but if one be to leeward of him, it is not difficult to ap- 
proach within a few paces. 

His sight, on the other hand, is not good. From the pe- 
culiar position of his eyes, which are deep set in the head, 
and his unwieldy horns, he can only see what is immediately 
before him. 

The " black" species, as before said, are of a very sullen 
and morose disposition. They are, moreover, subject to sud- 
den paroxysms of unprovoked fury, rushing and charging 
with inconceivable fierceness animals, stones, bushes- — in 
short, any object that comes in their way. 

Seen in his native wilds, either when browsing at his leis- 
ure, or listlessly sauntering about, a person would take the 
rhinoceros to be the most stupid and inoffensive of creatures ; 
yet, when his ire is roused, he becomes the reverse, and is 
then the most agile and terrible of animals. 

Colonel Williamson speaks of a rhinoceros in India whose 
ferocity was such as to render the roads impassable by at- 



378 FEROCITY OF THE RHINOCEROS. 

tacking travelers, or those who passed near his haunts ; and he 
relates an attack upon a sporting company by the same ani- 
mal, in the close of the year 1788, as generally known to the 
army and residents of the district. " Two officers belonging 
to the troops cantoned at Dunapore, near Patna, went down 
the river toward Monghyr to shoot and hunt. They had 
encamped in the vicinity of Derrzapore, and had heard some 
reports of a rhinoceros having attacked some travelers many 
miles off. One morning, just as they were rising, about day- 
break, to go in quest of game, they heard a violent uproar ; 
and, on looking out, found that a rhinoceros was goring their 
horses, both of which, being fastened by their head and heel 
with ropes, were consequently unable either to escape or re- 
sist. Their servants took to their heels, and concealed them- 
selves in the neighboring jungle ; and the gentlemen had just 
time to climb up into a small tree not far distant, before the 
furious beast, having completed the destruction of the horses, 
turned his attention to their masters. They were barely 
out of his reach, and by no means exempt from danger, es- 
pecially as he assumed a threatening appearance, and seemed 
intent on their downfall. After keeping them in dreadful 
suspense for some time, and using some efforts to dislodge 
them, seeing the sun rise, he retreated to his haunt; not, 
however, without occasionally casting an eye back, as with 
regret, at leaving what he wanted the power to destroy." 

But the rhinoceros is not dangerous to man alone : all the 
beasts of the forest dread him, and none venture to attack 
this truly formidable animal. The lion, if they chance to 
meet, slinks out of his way. Even the elephant, should they 
encounter, retreats, if possible, without hazarding an engage- 
ment. Maj or Lally stated to the author of ' ' Oriental Sports" 
that he once witnessed, from a distant hill, a most desperate 
battle between a large male elephant and a rhinoceros, in 
which the former was worsted and fled. Amral told me 
that one day, while himself and party were engaged in pur- 



GREGARIOUS HABITS DOMESTICATION. 379 

suit of an elephant, a black rhinoceros suddenly appeared 
among them, charging madly both beasts and men, several 
of whom had narrow escapes from being gored by the an- 
imal. 

The rhinoceros will also fight his own species. One night, 
when at the "skarm," I saw four huge beasts engage each 
other at the same time, and so furious was the strife, .and 
their gruntings so horrible, that it caused the greatest con- 
sternation among my party, who were encamped some little 
way off. I succeeded after a while in killing two of them, 
one of which was actually unfit for food, being quite rotten 
from wounds received on previous occasions, and, probably, 
under similar circumstances. 

The rhinoceros, though it can not strictly be called a gre- 
garious animal, and though most commonly met with singly 
or in pairs, would seem to be of a somewhat social disposition. 
Indeed, as many as a dozen have been seen pasturing and 
browsing together. 

The rhinoceros is nocturnal in his habits. At the ap- 
proach of dusk he commences his rambles, and, if not dis- 
turbed, generally visits the pool at an early hour of the 
evening; afterward he not unfrequently wanders over a 
great extent of country. Soon after sunrise he seeks repose 
and shelter against the heat under some friendly mimosa, 
or 'the projecting ledge of a rock, where he spends the day 
in sleep, either stretched at full length or in a standing po- 
sition. Thus seen from a distance, he may easily be mistak- 
en for the fragment of a rock. 

The Asiatic species is frequently kept in confinement, but, 
though generally tractable, his morose and savage nature 
makes him rather dangerous. The least provocation often 
puts him into a tempest of passion, when he will not hesitate 
to destroy his best friend. In his rage he will jump about, 
and leap to a great height, driving his head furiously, and 
with incredible swiftness, against the partitions of his place 



380 FLESH AND HORNS OP THE RHINOCEROS. 

of confinement. Three or four specimens are at the present 
day alive in England. 

The flesh of the rhinoceros varies greatly in quality. That 
of the "black" species, from its leanness, and the animal 
feeding on the " wait-a-bit" thorn bushes, which gives it an 
acrid and bitter flavor, is not over-esteemed. That of the 
white, on the other hand, whose sustenance consists of grass, 
which imparts to it an agreeable taste, coupled with its usu- 
al fatness, is greatly sought after by natives and colonists. 
Indeed, the flesh of this animal seems always to have been 
in repute in the Cape Colony. Kolben, when speaking of it, 
says, " The flesh of a rhinoceros, which I have often eaten 
with a great deal of satisfaction, is not so sinewy as some 
writers have represented." 

The horns of the rhinoceros, which are capable of a high 
polish, are a valuable article of commerce. At the Cape 
this commodity fetches half as much as ordinary elephant 
ivory. It is extensively used in the manufacture of sword- 
handles, drinking-cups, ramrods for rifles, and a variety of 
other purposes. In Turkey the rhinoceros horn is much es- 
teemed, more especially such as have a reddish tint about 
the grain. These, when made into cups, the Turks believe 
to have the virtue of detecting poison. 

"The horns of the rhinoceros," says Thunberg, "were 
kept by some people, both in town and country, not only as 
rarities, but also as useful in diseases, and for the purpose of 
detecting poison. As to the former of these intentions, the 
fine shavings of the horns taken internally were supposed to 
cure convulsions and spasms in children. "With respect to 
the latter, it was generally believed that goblets made of these 
horns in a turner's lathe would discover a poisonous draft 
that was put into them by making the liquor ferment till it 
ran quite out of the goblet. Such horns as were taken from 
a rhinoceros calf were said to be the best, and the most to be 
depended upon." 




VIRTUE OP THE HORNS THE CHASE. 381 

" The horn of the rhinoceros," Kolben tells us, " will not 
endure the touch of poison. I have often been a witness to 
this. Many people of fashion at the Cape have cups turn'd 
out of the rhinoceros horn. Some have them set in silver, 
and some in gold. If wine is pour'd into one of these cups, 
it immediately rises and bubbles up as if it were boiling ; and 
if there be poison in it, the cup immediately splits. If poi- 
son be put by itself into one of those cups, the cup, in an in- 
stant, flies to pieces. Tho' this matter is known to thou- 
sands of persons, yet some writers have affirm'd that the 
rhinoceros horn has no such virtue. The chips made in turn- 
ing one of those cups are ever carefully sav'd, and return'd to 
the owner of the cup, being esteem' d of great benefit in con- 
vulsions, faintings, and many other illfiesses." 

The chase of the rhinoceros is variously conducted in South- 
ern Africa. One of the most approved plans is to stalk the 
animal either when feeding or reposing. If the sportsman 
keep well under the wind, and there be the least cover, he 
has no difficulty in approaching the beast within easy range, 
when, if the ball be well directed, the prey is usually killed 
on the spot. With a little precaution, this kind of sport 
may be conducted without greatly endangering a person's 
safety. 

But by far the most convenient way of destroying this an- 
imal is to shoot him from the " skarm" as he comes to the 
pool to quench his thirst. In this manner I have myself 
killed several scores of rhinoceroses. 

Occasionally he is also taken in pitfalls, which are con- 
structed in pretty much the same manner as those for the 
capture of elephants and other large game. 

He is not often pursued on horseback, and chiefly because 
his speed and endurance are such that it is very difficult to 
come up with and follow him, to say nothing of the danger 
attendant on such a course. Many a hunter, indeed, has 
thereby endangered his life. 



382 MR. OSWELL AND THE "VVTHTE EHCCOCEROS. 

" Once, as I was returning from an elephant chase," said 
Mr. Oswell to me, one day in conversation, " I observed a 
huo:e white rhinoceros a short distance ahead. I was rid- 
ing a most excellent hunter, the best and fleetest steed that 
I ever possessed during my shooting excursions in Africa, at 
the time ; but it was a rule -u-ith me never to pursue a rhi- 
noceros on horseback, and simply because this animal is so 
much more easily approached and killed on foot. On this 
occasion, however, it seemed as if fate had interfered. Turn- 
ing to my after-rider, I called out, * By Heaven ! that fellow 
has got a fine horn. I T\'ill have a shot at him.' "With that 
I clapped spurs to my horse, who soon brought me alongside 
the huofe beast, and the next instant I lodofed a ball in his 
body, but, as it turned out, not with deadly effect. On re- 
ceiving my shot, the rhinoceros, to my great surprise, instead 
of seeking safety in flight, as is the habit of this generally 
inoffensive animal, suddenly stopped short, then turned sharp- 
ly round, and, having eyed me most curiously for a second or 
two, walked slowly toward me. I never dreamed of danger. 
Nevertheless, I instinctively turned my horse's head away ; 
but, strange to say, this creature, usually so docile and gen- 
tle — which the slightest touch of the reins would be suflicient 
to guide — now absolutely refused to give me his head. "When 
at last he did so, it was too late; for, not-^-ithstanding the 
rhinoceros had only been walking, the distance between us 
was so inconsiderable that by this time I clearly saw contact 
was unavoidable. Indeed, in another moment I observed 
the brute bend low his head, and, with a thrust upward, 
struck his horn into the ribs of the horse -vN^ith such force as 
to penetrate to the very saddle on the opposite side, where I 
felt its sharp point against my leg. The violence of the blow 
was so tremendous as to cause the horse to make a complete 
somersault in the air, coming heavily down on his back. 
With regard to myself, I was, as a matter of course, violently 
precipitated to the ground. While thus prostrated, I acta- 



4 



MR. OS WELL AND THE BLACK RHINOCEROS. 383 

ally saw the horn of the infuriated brute alongside of me ; 
but, seemingly satisfied with his revenge, without attempting 
to do further mischief, he started off at a canter from the 
scene of action. My after-rider having by this time come 
up, I rushed upon him, and, almost pulling him off' the horse, 
leaped into the saddle, and, without a hat, and my face 
streaming with blood, was quickly in pursuit of the retreat- 
ing beast, which I soon had the satisfaction to see stretched 
lifeless at my feet. 

" My friend Captain Vardon, by whom I was accompa- 
nied on this journey, soon after joined me, and, seeing my 
head and face covered with blood, at first imagined me to be 
mortally hurt or dying. However, with the exception of a 
blow on the skull, occasioned by the stirrup-iron, which laid 
my head open a few inches, I received no further injury ; but 
the horse was killed on the spot." 

Again : " On another occasion, as I was bending my steps 
toward my camp on foot, I espied, at no great distance, two 
rhinoceroses of the species Keitloa. They were feeding, and 
slowly approaching me. I immediately couched and quiet- 
ly waited their arrival ; but, though they soon came within 
range, from their constantly facing nae, I was unable to fire, 
well knowing the uselessness of a shot at the head. In a 
short time they had approached so close that, on account of 
the exposed nature of the ground, I could neither retreat nor 
advance, and my position became highly critical. I was 
afraid to fire; for, even had I succeeded in killing one, the 
other would, in all likelihood, have run over and trampled 
me to death. In this dilemma the thought struck me that, 
on account of their bad sight, I might possibly save myself 
by trying to run past them. No time was to be lost ; and 
accordingly, just as the leading animal almost touched me, I 
stood up and dashed past it. The brute, however, was much 
too quick for me, and before I had made good many paces, I 
heard a violent snorting at my heels, and had only time to 



384 MR. OSWELL WOUNDED A CROTCHET. 

fire my gun at random into his head, when I felt myself im- 
paled on his horn. 

" The shock stunned me completely. The first return to 
consciousness was, I recollect, finding myself seated on one 
of my ponies, and a CaiFre leading it. I had an indistinct 
notion of having been hunting, and, on observing the man, I 
asked quickly why he was not following the track of the an- 
imal, when he mumbled something to the effect that it was 
gone. 

" By accident I touched my right hip with my hand, and 
on withdrawing it, was astonished to find it clotted with 
blood. Yet my senses were still so confused, and the side so 
benumbed, that I actually kept feeling and working the wound 
with my fingers. While trying to account for my strange 
position, I observed some of my men coming toward me with 
a cartel, and on asking them what they were about, they 
cried out that they had come to fetch my body, having been 
told that I was killed by some animal. The truth now for 
the first time broke upon me, and I was quickly made aware 
of my crippled condition. The wound I had received was 
of a very serious character, and, though it ultimately healed, 
it left scars behind which no doubt will remain to the day 
of my death." 

We are fond of the marvelous. It is generally received as 
a fact that the hide of the rhinoceros is impenetrable to a 
bullet, or even to an " iron ingot," as a certain writer quaint- 
ly expresses it. But this is just as idle a notion, as regards 
the African species at least, as that entertained respecting 
the softness and pliability of the animal's horns, for a com- 
mon leaden ball will find its way through the hide with the 
greatest facility. It is true, one should be near the brute ; 
for, though I have known a rhinoceros killed at the distance 
of a hundred yards, it is an exception to the rule. Indeed, 
beyond thirty or forty paces one can not make sure of the 
shot. Under all circumstances, a double charge of powder 
is desirable. 



THE PART TO AIM AT SELDOM BLEEDS EXTERNALLY. 385 

Though a common leaden ball may do the work well 
enough, I would not recommend it. The best metal is spel- 
ter, which has almost the hardness of iron, with all the weight 
of lead ; but it is often difficult to procure. For want of a 
better, two thirds lead and one third solder answers the pur- 
pose very well. • 

The most deadly part to aim at is just behind the shoul- 
der ; a ball through the centre of the lobes of the lungs is 
certain to cause almost instantaneous death. From the very 
solid structure of the head, the great thickness of the hide 
on that part, the position of the horns, the smallness of the 
brain,* a shot in the head rarely or never proves f^ital. The 
same may be said of the breast. 

However severely wounded the rhinoceros may be, he sel- 
dom bleeds externally. This is attributable in part, no doubt, 
to the great thickness of the hide, and its elasticity, which 
occasions the hole caused by the bullet nearly to close up, 
as also from the hide not being firmly attached to the body, 
but constantly moving. If the animal bleed at all, it is from 
the mouth and nostrils, which is a pretty sure sign that it is 
mortally stricken, and the chances are it will be found dead 
within a short distance. 

The number of rhinoceroses destroyed annually in South 
Africa is very considerable. Of this some idea may be 
formed when I mention that Messrs. Oswell and Vardon 
killed in one year no less than eighty-nine of these animals ; 
in my present journey, I myself shot, single-handed, nearly 
two thirds of this amount. 

* Sparrman says that the cavity containing the brains of a rhinoc- 
eros that he shot was only six inches long, and four high, and of an 
oval shape. On being filled with peas, it was found to hold barely one 
quart ; a human skull, measured at the same time, did not require 
much less than three pints to fill it. 

R 



386 DEPARTURE FROM GHANZE SEARCH FOR WATER. 



, CHAPTER XXXI. 

Departure from Ghanze. — Nectar in the Desert. — DijQficulty in finding 
Water. — Amve at Abeghan. — Unsuccessful Chase. — A " Charm." 
— How to make the undrinkable drinkable. — An Elephant wounded 
and killed. — Bold and courageous Dog. — Kobis.— Author seized 
■with a singular Malady. — Messengers dispatched to the Chief of the 
Lake Ngami. — A large troop of Elephants. — Author kills a huge 
Male. — Ciions and Giraffe. — Author's hair-breadth Escapes : from a 
black Rhinoceros ; from a white Rhinoceros ; from two troops of 
Elephants ; he shoots a couple of his Adversaries. — ^Where to aim 
at an Elephant. 

Having enjoyed a good deal of shooting, and feasted our- 
selves and Bushmen on rhinoceros flesh to our hearts' content, 
we left Ghanze on the 23d of June. The first portion of the 
country through which our road led was very thorny ; but 
the bush gradually opened, and we journeyed with more ease. 

In the early part of the day after our departure I caused 
my horse to be saddled, and rode off to look for water. 
About noon I reached a hollow, of a similar nature as 
Ghanze', but on a smaller scale. I thought I perceived indi- 
cations of the existence of water ; and having '' hoppled" the 
steed, went in search of it. The elephants, however, had so 
trampled the place, that, though I could not doubt of water 
being there, I soon found that it was only to be had by a 
vast deal of labor. 

While reflecting on what was best to do, whether to re- 
main and clear out the pit, or to push on in hopes of finding 
another watering-place, I observed several small birds flying 
in and out at a small crevice in the limestone rock. Run- 
ning to the spot, I discovered a narrow circular aperture, 
about two feet broad, and perhaps twice as much in depth, 



NECTAE THE " EYE" OF A SPRING DISAPPOINTMENT. 387 

with something at the bottom reflecting light. Taking for 
granted that it was water which thus shone, and being tor- 
mented with thirst, I leaped into the hole and greedily swal- 
lowed a large quantity. I was too eager to be able to dis- 
tinguish its taste, but, having somewhat slaked my burning- 
thirst, my palate resumed its function, and I thought I had 
never experienced so abominable a flavor. Imagine my hor- 
ror when, taking a small portion in the hollow of my hand 
and holding it up to the light, I found I had been drinking 
hlood, mixed with the refuse of some wild animal ! I shall 
never forget the loathing I felt on making this discovery, and, 
though my stomach was presently relieved of its nauseous 
contents, I long retained a qualmish sensation. The myste- 
ry was, however, cleared up. On a more close examination 
of the aperture in question, it was found that a herd of zebras 
had, like myself, been looking for water, and, in so doing, one 
of them had fallen in, and been found and killed by the Bush- 
men. Hence the blood and offal of the unfortunate animal. 

As soon as the men arrived with the cattle, every person 
who could be spared was employed in cleaning out the hole 
where I had at first seen indications of water. Large frag- 
ments of rock, which the bulky forms of elephants and other 
gigantic animals had pushed into the cavity, were removed 
after immense exertions. Occasionally, in displacing a firm- 
ly-imbedded stone or piece of wood, the pure liquid would 
gush forth with great vigor, and we flattered ourselves that 
we had found the "eye" of a spring, but the next instant all 
our hopes vanished. After eight or nine hours' hard work, 
our best endeavors to discover any steady supply of water 
proved abortive. The little we did obtain — sufficient for the 
horse and dogs — was of such questionable quality that, thirsty 
as we were, it was with the utmost repugnance we could pre- 
vail on ourselves to swallow a few mouthfuls. 

At break of day the next morning we renewed our labors, 
but with no better success. I now became anxious foi' tlie 



388 WATER DISCOVERED A GLORIOUS NIGHT. 

safety of the cattle, which began to show symptoms of dis- 
tress. Mounting my horse, and guided by two active Bush- 
men, I rode briskly in the direction of the Lake, giving or- 
ders to my men to continue their exertions during the remain- 
der of the day ; but, should they not succeed in obtaining a 
sufficiency of drink for the cattle by the next morning, they 
were to follow on my tracks. 

I had ridden long. The sun had already sunk below the 
tree-tops, and yet no water. The Bushmen, however, gave 
me to understand by signs that it was not far off, and the 
number of wild-beast-tracks gave weight to their assertion. 
At last the noisy chattering of Guinea-fowls, the cooing of 
doves, and the screams of paroquets broke on my ear, and 
indicated a more favorable vicinity. Putting spurs to my 
horse, I struck into a large " game-path," and just as the sun 
was sinking below the horizon I came alongside a large sheet 
of clear water. I felt truly thankful, and only wanted my 
own people and cattle to complete my happiness. This place, 
according to my interpreter, was called Abeghan. 

At dark I tied up my horse some little distance fi'om the 
water, cut him an ample supply of grass with my hunting- 
knife, and, having struck a light for the Bushmen, and given 
them, as a reward for their services, the piece of flesh we 
carried with us, I shouldered my rifle, and proceeded to the 
fountain with a view of procuring something for the larder. 
It was a glorious night. The sky was dark, but studded 
with innumerable twinkling stars reflected in the watery 
mirror below. For some fifty paces the locality was tol- 
erably free from bushes, and on one side the prospect ex- 
tended nearly a quarter of a mile through an avenue lined 
on either side with noble Damara *' parent trees." Else- 
where the darkness was impenetrable. Silence, like that 
of the sepulchre, reigned in this remote solitude, relieved 
at long intervals by the hyaena and the jackal lapping the 
water, and the distant grunting of the rhinoceros. The 



BAD LUCK — -A CHARM TIMBO. 389 

latter, however, took cai'e not to come within range of the 
rifle. 

At the return of daylight, having then been already twen- 
ty-four hours without food, I felt very hungry, and hastened 
back to the Bushmen to see whether they had left any of the 
flesh I had given them ; but I might as well have searched 
the dens of ravenous wolves as the lair of these starved "chil- 
dren of the desert." Indeed, they looked very crestfallen 
when I announced my bad luck. 

Fearing my men might possibly delay in following me, I 
wrote a few hurried lines in my note-book, and tearing out 
the leaf, handed it to one of the guides with the intimation 
that he must hasten back whence he came ; but, having nev- 
er seen a piece of paper before, he received it at first with 
caution, and, taking it between two of his fingers, began 
blowing on it, thinking probably it was a kind of " charm" 
for better luck. Seeing me smile, he took courage and blew 
still harder. This was too much, and I burst into a roar of 
laughter, in which I was heartily joined by my tawny friend. 
However, after numerous signs and gestures, I made him com- 
prehend my wishes, and off he started to meet the caravan. 

After another twelve hours' fasting and waiting, and just 
as it was getting dark, I had the satisfaction to see the whole 
party arrive safely. They had succeeded in procuring enough 
water for almost all the oxen. 

To guard against thirst by the way, the men had brought 
two wooden kegs of water from the last halting-place. See- 
ing Timbo about to take his fill from one of the vessels in 
question, I observed to him that there was surely no longer 
any necessity to partake of such villainous stuff. He never- 
theless drank, exclaiming, *' Master, the water is capital!" 
*^ Nonsense," I ejaculated, skeptically, " you don't mean to 
say that that abominable fluid is good V " Well," he rejoined, 
" if master won't believe me, he better try it himself." Less 
from any faith in what he said than from curiosity, I did 



390 AN IKREP ARABLE ACCIDENT. 

taste it, and, truly enough, it was "capital." Even the 
smell had vanished. Every body agreed in praising its ex- 
cellence. I could not account for so great a marvel, but 
supposed that under the influence of the sun the water had 
undergone some chemical change. In the course of twelve 
hours, four gallons of turbid water had, without any appar- 
ent cause, been converted into a fluid as bright and sweet as 
was ever drawn from fresh spring. 

On leaving the pestiferous fountain, I intrusted young 
Bonfield with my watch, in order that he might ascertain 
the number of hours they were on the road. On a^ain meet- 
ing the lad, he told me in a flurried manner that he thought 
there was something the matter with the "piece," as it would 
not go properly. The truth at once flashed across me. In 
winding it up, he had forcibly pushed it the wrong way, and 
thus made it useless. I can not describe my feelings on as- 
certaining this fact. My chronometer and another watch 
had some time previously ceased to act. This was my last 
time-piece. I had no longer the means of going on with my 
observations. Latitudes I could still manage, but as for 
longitudes, the most important part, it was out of the ques- 
tion — at least I thought so at the time. I had indulged in 
the hope of being able to settle the position of the Lake. 

I was totally unacquainted with the mechanism of a 
watch ; but necessity has no law, and, as a last chance, I 
determined to pull it to pieces, in order to ascertain the 
cause of its stopping. Twice I did so, and twice I success- 
fully put it together, but it would not go properly. I dis- 
sected it a third time, but was even less fortunate than be- 
fore, for the chain snapped in two places. Nothing daunted, 
however, I procured a very fine, well-dried gut, with which 
I tried to splice it ; but it is easy to imagine the result. I 
believe at that moment I would have freely given the best 
half of what I possessed in this world — and that, perhaps, 
after all, was not much — for a good strong watch. 



AN ELEPHANT WOUNDED COURAGEOUS DOG. 391 

The second night after my arrival at Abeghan, and when 
lying in wait near the water for wild animals, I was surprised 
by three huge bull-elephants, whose approach had been so 
silent that, before I was aware of their presence, they were 
within ten paces of me. I was ambushed in a very exposed 
place, but nevertheless stoutly held my ground, and, taking a 
steady aim at the fore leg of the leader, fired. As he wheeled 
about I saluted him with the contents of the second barrel. 
He gave a loud shriek, and, curling up his trunk, trotted 
quickly away. The next day we followed many a weary 
mile on his track. He had separated from the rest ; but we 
were unable to overtake him. Some time afterward, how- 
ever, I heard of his death. The Bushmen brought the tusks. 

The same evening I shot a couple of rhinoceroses. One 
of them, on receiving my ball, made a headlong charge, and 
was so close upon me that, to avoid actual contact, I threw 
myself backward and fell to the ground. He then ran a few 
hundred yards, when he came to a stand. At break of day 
my men went on his trail. He had still strength enough to 
make a dash at them, and would probably have laid hold of 
some of them, had not a small bitch (half terrier and half 
bull dog), called " Venus" (in derision of her ugliness), caught 
the enraged animal by the lower lip, where she stuck with 
such tenacity that the rhinoceros, with all his fury, was un- 
able to shake her off. She only relinquished her hold when 
her huge antagonist was fairly laid prostrate by a ball. 

But the sagacity of this favorite dog was as great as her 
courage. Being now in a game country, all sorts of beasts 
of prey abounded, more especially jackals, which might be 
seen running about by dozens. In order not to frighten the 
elephants and other large animals, we were in the habit of 
encamping some little way from the water, to which Miss 
" Venus" regularly resorted to bathe and drink. On perceiv- 
ing a jackal, she instantly crouched, looking very timid. 
" Reynard," mistaking her posture as an indication of fear, 



392 "VENUS's" SAGACITY REACH KOBIS GOOD NEWS. 

and probably thinking that, from her diminutive size, she 
would prove an easy conquest, boldly approached his sup- 
posed victim. But he had reckoned without mine host ; for 
the instant the cunning dog found her antagonist sufficiently 
near, she leaped like a cat at his throat, and once there, the 
beast had no chance. She then returned to camp, where her 
contented looks and bloody jaws soon attracted the attention 
of the men, who immediately went on her track and brought 
the jackal, who was valued on account of his fur. 

Having dried some of the flesh of the rhinoceroses, and 
given the rest to the hungry Bushmen, who had already be- 
gun to flock round us, we set out for Kobis, which we reach- 
ed after less than two hours' journeying. This place, owing 
probably to heavy rains at no very distant period, was a, mag- 
nificent sheet of water (a glorious sight to our thirsty imag- 
ination), swarming with geese and ducks. From the num- 
ber of well and freshly trodden paths, we conjectured it to 
be the great stronghold of game ; nor were we disappointed. 
I therefore determined to devote a few days here to shoot- 
ing, and selected my camp with caution and to the best of 
my judgment. 

I had not been long settled in my new quarters when 
some Bushmen made their appearance, carrying bundles of 
reeds (intended as shafts for their arrows), which they had 
brought from the Lake Ngami, or " Tlannis," as they called 
it in their language. They had been five days on the road, 
but said it might be reached in two. This was cheerful 
news. But I was nearly foiled in my plans on the threshold 
of the object of my ambition. 

Having late one night, with much danger and difficulty, 
succeeded in dispatching an enormously large white rhinoc- 
eros, I fell asleep toward morning, overpowered by the ex- 
ertion and fatigue of several previous nights' watching. I 
was awakened by a smarting sensation a little below the left 
knee ; and when I reached my people the pain had become 



SINGULAK MALADY EMBASSADORS APPOINTED. 393 

intolerable. I was compelled to go to bed immediately. The 
next day the affected part was much inflamed. The skin 
became so tender that I could not bear even the touch of my 
linen ; and when little George applied (though with the ten- 
derest care) the lotion I had prescribed, I screamed with an- 
guish. No position suited me. If I was compelled to change, 
which could only be effected by another person's assistance, 
the movement was agonizing. 

Apprehending that my illness might be of some duration, 
and knowing but too well the character of savages, I deemed 
it advisable to dispatch one or two of my men with a few 
trifling presents to Lecholetebe, the chief of the Bechuanas 
and the other people who inhabited the borders of the Lake 
Ngami, to inform him of my arpival in his neighborhood and 
the motive of my journey. Timbo, and Piet the Griqua, 
were selected to carry out my wishes. 

While anxiously awaiting their return, we once more ran 
short of flesh. I possessed a few sheep, it is true, but I was 
afraid to kill them, not knowing what the future had in store 
for me. 

I therefore dispersed my men over the surrounding coun- 
try ; but, though they met with game in abundance, from 
mismanagement and bad shooting they were unable to bag a 
single animal. 

One evening I desperately resolved to go to the water my- 
self, in the hope of succeeding better. Accordingly, I ordered 
my servants to prepare a " skarm," and to carry me there, 
taking the chance of being run over or gored by elephants or 
rhinoceroses ; for, in my disabled state, it was impossible, 
should any animal charge, to get out of its way. Seeing my 
helpless condition, the men remonstrated, but I was resolved 
to go, and fortune favored me. 

I had patiently waited till nigh morning without seeing 
any thing but hyaenas and jackals. I believe these creatures 
knew I would not hurt them, for they approached within a 

R 2 



394 AUTHOR SHOOTS AN ELEPHANT. 

very few paces, staring and laughing at me in the most im- 
pudent manner. I threw gravel pebbles at them, but this 
only served to increase their mockery. I could stand it no 
longer, but hurled my camp-chair at their heads, when they 
quickly betook themselves to flight. 

Scarcely had they made their exit than I heard the heavy 
tramp of elephants. At this sound my heart beat violently, 
but it was only momentarily. The next instant I recovered 
my self-possession. Pushing my gun gently over the " skarm," 
I quietly waited (without daring to think of my poor leg) the 
approach of the giants. Nearer and nearer they came ; their 
steps were more distinct and measured ; confused forms were 
seen advancing among the trees. Gradually they assumed 
shape ; and, lo ! suddenly a liuge elephant stood out in bold 
relief against the sky line; then another, and another, till 
the ground became alive with their numbers. There must 
have been at least fifty. They hesitated for a moment, but 
then came swiftly on by a broad path at right angles to and 
within a dozen feet of my place of concealment. I scarcely 
dared to breathe. The leader stood conspicuously forth from 
the rest, and, as a matter of course, I selected him for a 
mark. Having allowed the huge creature to pass a few paces 
beyond me, so as to have an opportunity of a second shot, I 
gave a low whistle, which instantly arrested the attention of 
the brutes, who, partially raising their huge ears, and de- 
scribing with their trunks eccentric circles through the air, 
seemed anxiously to inquire the cause of the strange noise. 
This was my opportunity ; and, in an instant, the forest re- 
sounded with the report of the gun. Curling up his trunk, 
the stricken animal uttered a faint cry, and, turning sharply 
round, staggered back whence he came. It was clear the 
wound he had received was mortal ; but, to make more sure, 
I gave him the contents of my second barrel, though appar^ 
ently without effect. Having reached the skirts of the wood, 
he tottered, and, plunging violently forward, came heavily 
to the crround. 



^ 



THE CAMP ALARMED REJOICINGS. 395 

I had eagerly watched the scene ; and now, strange to re- 
late, that the danger and excitement was over, I was seized 
with a violent tremor. After a time, however, when my 
nerves had become somewhat composed, I pushed down part 
of the inclosure, and, though crippled, crawled on all fours 
up to the carcass. Having ascertained that life was extinct, 
I scrambled on to the back of the defunct elephant, where, 
like a schoolboy, I seated myself in triumph. 

By this time the day began to dawn. Being within hear- 
ing of the camp, and feeling chilly, I shouted to my people 
to bring some fire. But, though I received no answer, I 
could distinctly hear them in earnest conversation, as if dis- 
cussing some weighty matter. I shouted again and again, 
but with no better success. Being convinced they must have 
heard me, I was puzzled and vexed at not receiving a reply. 
At last, after having waited fully a quarter of an hour, I ob- 
served a number of flickering lights, resembling so many 
will-o'-the-wisps, and soon afterward I was joined by my 
men. The mystery of their unaccountable silence to me was 
presently explained. It appeared that on first hearing my 
shouts, which they took to be cries of distress, they were 
struck with fear and astonishment ; and, as the shouts pro- 
ceeded from a rather different quarter to that where they had 
left me on the previous evening, they were led to suppose that 
some savage beast had carried me away. Their own loud 
talking, it seemed, had arisen in debating in what manner 
they could best assist me. I could not help saying to myself, 
" How brave and considerate !" 

There was now no want of flesh, and the result was great 
rejoicings. The report of my success spread like wildfire, 
and the animal was scarcely cold before scores of hungry 
Bushmen — like so many vultures — had assembled to partici- 
pate in the feast. Before noon, with the exception of the 
sternum, the head, and some of the larger bones, every ves- 
tige of the giant beast had disappeared. The way in which 



396 LIONS AND GIRAFFE. 

the Bushmen gorge on the carcass of elephants is very dis- 
gusting ; and the process of cutting it up, in which they show 
no little method and dexterity, is nearly equally so. 

Elephants, rhinoceroses, gnoos, zebras, &c., were now shot 
almost nightly. Giraffes were not very numerous in this 
neighborhood, but occasionally they made their appearance 
at the pool, when I managed to get a shot.* 

Late one evening, in another part of the country, I had 
badly wounded a lion, and at an early hour on the succeed- 
ing morning was following the bloody tracks of the beast, in 
the hope of putting an end to his career. Presently we 
came upon the " spoor" of a whole troop of lions, as also 
that of a solitary giraffe. So many tracks confused us ; and 
while endeavoring to pick out from the rest those of the 
wounded lion, I observed my native attendants suddenly 
rush forward, and the next instant the jungle re-echoed with 
shouts of triumph. Thinking they had discovered the lion 
we were in pursuit of, I also hurried forward ; but imagine 
my surprise when, emerging into an opening in the jungle, 1 
saw, not a dead lion, as I expected, but five living lions (two 
males and three females), two of whom were in the act of 
puUing down a splendid giraffe, the other three watching, 
close at hand, and with devouring looks, the deadly strife. 
The beautiful illustration facing the title-page of this volume 
is an exact representation of this most interesting incident. 

The scene was of so imposing a nature that, for the mo- 
ment, I forgot I carried a gun. The natives, however, in 
anticipation of a " glorious gorge," dashed madly forward, 
and, with the most piercing shrieks and yells, compelled the 
lions to beat a hasty retreat. 

When I reached the giraffe, now stretched at full length 
on the sand, it made a few ineffectual attempts to raise its 

* It was my intention to introduce at length the history of this ani- 
mal ; hut being (as already alluded to in a preceding chapter) con- 
fined as to space, I must, though reluctantly, abandon the idea. 



M\ 



OTHER ANIMALS DREAD THE ELEPHANT. 397 

neck ; its body heaved and quivered for a moment, and the 
next instant the poor animal was dead. It had received 
several deep gashes about the flanks and chest, caused by the 
claws and teeth of its fierce assailants. The strong and 
tough muscles of the neck were also bitten through. 

All thought of pursuing the wounded lion was now out 
of the question. The natives remained gorging on the carcass 
of the camelopard until it was devoured. A day or two 
afterward, however, I had the good fortune to fall in with 
my royal antagonist, and finished him without much diffi- 
culty. 

At Kobis and the neighborhood I enjoyed shooting to per- 
fection.* But I had many hair-breadth escapes from ele- 
phants and rhinoceroses. 

* The cut on the next page represents one of those numerous and 
exciting scenes that I have witnessed at night, at the water, when 
lying in ambush for game. There is one fact — a fact that has hitherto 
escaped the attention of the African sportsman — connected with this 
illustration that makes it particularly interesting, and which induced 
me to designate it "The Approach of Elephants." The animals are 
just appearing above the distant hill. If the spring or pool, as the 
case may be,.be of small extent, all the animals present will invariably 
retire from the water as soon as they are aware of the presence of the 
elephants, of whom they appear to have an instinctive dread, and will 
remain at a respectful distance until the giants have quenched their 
thirst. Thus, long before I have seen, or even heard the elephants, 
I have been warned of their approach by the symptoms of uneasiness 
displayed by such animals as happened to be drinking at the time. 
The giraffe, for instance, begins to sway his long neck to and fro ; 
the zebra utters subdued, plaintive cries ; the gnoo glides away with a 
noiseless step; and even the ponderous and quarrelsome black rhinoc- 
eros, when he has time for reflection, will pull up sh&Yt in his walk to 
listen ; then, turning round, he listens again, and, if he feel satisfied 
that his suspicions are correct, he invariably makes oif, usually giving 
vent to his fear or ire by one of his vicious and peculiar snorts. Once, 
it is true, I saw a rhinoceros drinking together with a herd of seven 
male elephants ; but then he was of the white species, and, besides, I 
do not believe that either party knew of each other's proximity. 



398 



THE APPROACH OF ELEPHANTS. 







HAIR-BREADTH ESCAPE FROM A RHINOCEROS. 399 

One fine moonlight night, when snugly ensconced in my 
"skarm," and contemplating the strange but picturesque 
scene before me, my reverie was interrupted by the inhar- 
monious grunting of a black rhinoceros. He was evidently 
in bad humor, for, as he emerged from among the trees into 
more open ground, I observed him madly charging any thing 
and every thing that he encountered, such as bushes, stones, 
&c. Even the whitened skulls and skeletons of his own 
species, lying scattered about on the ground, were attacked 
with inconceivable fury. I was much amused at his eccentric 
pastime ; but, owing to the openness of the ground, and the 
quantity of the limestone thereabout, which made objects 
more distinct, he was not easy of approach. However, after 
divesting myself of my shoes, and all the more conspicuous 
parts of my dress, I managed to crawl — pushing my gun be- 
fore me — to within a short distance of the snorting beast. 
As he was advancing in a direct line toward me, I did not 
like to fire, because one has little chance of killing the rhi- 
noceros when in that position. Having approached to within 
a few feet of me, his attention was attracted, and suddenly 
uttering one of those strange "blowing" noises so peculiar 
to the beast when alarmed or enraged, he prepared to treat 
me in a similar manner to the stones and skulls he had just 
so unceremoniously tossed about. Not a moment was to be 
lost ; and, in self-defense, I fired at his head. I shall never 
forget the confusion of the animal on receiving the contents 
of my gun. Springing nearly perpendicularly into the air, 
and to the height of many feet, he came down again with a 
thump that seemed to make the earth tremble ; then plung- 
ing violently forward (in doing which he all but trampled on 
me), he ran round and round the spot for fully five minutes, 
enveloping every object in a cloud of dust. At last he dashed 
into the wood and was hidden from view. Not finding blood 
on his tracks, I had no reason to suppose he was much hurt. 
My notion is, the bullet struck his horn, partially stunning 



400 ESCAPE PROM A TROOP OF ELEPHANTS. 

him with its jarring violence. Had my gun missed fire 
when he charged, it is more than probable I should have 
been impaled. 

Again : having on a certain night stalked to within a 
few paces of a huge white rhinoceros (a female as it proved), 
I put a ball in her shoulder, but it nearly cost me dear; 
for, guided by the flash of the gun, she rushed upon me with 
such fury that I had only time to throw myself on my back, 
in which position I remained motionless. This saved my 
life ; for, not observing me, she came to a sudden halt just as 
her feet were about to crush my body. She was so near to 
me that I felt the saliva from her mouth trickle on my face ! 
I was in an agony of suspense, though, happily, only for a 
moment ; for, having impatiently sniffed the air, she wheeled 
about, and made off at her utmost speed. I then saw, for 
the first time, that her calf was in company, and at once 
recognized the pair as old acquaintances, and as specially 
vicious animals. 

On another occasion, when the night was very dark, I 
crept to within a short distance of seven bull elephants, and 
was endeavoring to pick out the largest, when I was startled 
by a peculiar rumbHng noise close behind me. Springing 
to my feet, I perceived, to my surprise and alarm, a semi- 
circle of female elephants, with their calves, bearing down 
upon me. My position was critical, being between two fires, 
so to say, and I had no other choice than either to plunge 
into the pool, which could only be crossed by swimming, in 
the face of the male elephants, or to break through the ranks 
of the females. I adopted the latter alternative, but first 
fired at the nearest of the seven bulls ; and then, and without 
a moment's delay, I rushed on the more open rank of the 
female phalanx, uttering, at the time, loud shouts. My cries 
caused a momentary panic among the animals, of which I 
took advantage and slipped out between them, discharging 
my second barrel into the shoulder of the neai'est as I passed 



TWO KILLED IN ONE NIGHT ^WHERE TO AIM. 401 

her. No sooner, however, had I effected my escape, than 
the whole herd made a simultaneous rush at me, and trump- 
eted so shrilly as to cause every man at the camp, as I learn- 
ed afterward, to start out of his sleep. Fortunately, the 
darkness prevented the beasts from following me ; and, the 
jungle being close by, I was soon in safety. In my precipi- 
tate flight, however, I severely lacerated my feet ; for, when 
stalking the elephants, I had taken off my shoes, that I might 
the better steal upon them. 

When, after a while, I ventured out of my place of con- 
cealment, I found every thing quiet ; only one solitary ele- 
phant remained. Having approached within a short dis- 
tance, I could distinctly see him laving water on to his sides 
with his trunk. I immediately suspected he belonged to the 
troop of seven bulls, and was the one that I had fired at. 
Seating myself right across his path, I quietly watched his 
proceedings. After a time I saw him, as I thought, moving 
off in an opposite direction ; but I was mistaken, for in an- 
other instant his towering form loomed above me. It was 
too late to get out of his way ; so, quickly raising myself on 
one knee, I took a steady aim at his fore leg. On receiving 
the ball he uttered the most plaintive cries, and, rushing past 
me, soon disappeared in the neighboring forest. The next 
afternoon he was discovered dead within rifle-shot of the 
water. It had been a very successful night, for a fine female 
elephant had also fallen to my other shot.* 

* I lost many noble beasts from the small calibre of my guns, which 
did not carry more than fourteen and seventeen balls respectively to 
the pound. This was more especially the case as regarded the ele- 
phants ; and it was not until after a time, and when they had become 
scarce and shy, that I found out the way of bringing them down with 
any certainty at one or two shots. I found the best part to aim at 
(when shooting by night) was the shoulder, either behind or in the 
centre, near to the lower edge of the ear. Another good point, pro- 
vided the gun be of large calibre, is to fire at the leg, which once 
broken, the animal, in almost every instance, is completely at the mer- 
cy of the hunter. 



402 TIMBO'S KETUKN LECHOLETEBE LOGIC. 



CHAPTER XXXn. 

Timbo's Return from the Lake ; his Logic ; he takes the Law in his 
own Hands. — Calf of Author's Leg goes astray. — A troop of Ele- 
phants, — Author is charged by one of them, and narrowly escapes 
Death. — He shoots a white Rhinoceros. — He disables a black Rhi- 
noceros. — He is charged and desperately bruised and wounded by 
the latter. — He saves the Life of his Attendant, Kamapyu. — Author 
again charged by the Rhinoceros, and escapes Destruction only by 
the opportune Death of his Antagonist. — Reflections. — He starts for 
the Ngami. 

After about a week's absence Timbo returned. I learn- 
ed from him that, previously to his arrival at the Ngami, 
Lecholetebe, the chief, had not, contrary to my expectations, 
been made aware of my approach, and the sudden appear- 
ance of strangers, therefore, created no small degree of sur- 
prise and consternation both to him and his people, who fled 
precipitately with their flocks. 

Many years before, when my friends, the Damaras, extend- 
ed their migration to the neighborhood of the lake in ques- 
tion, the Bechuanas were in the habit of robbing them of 
their cattle. *' How does it happen," said Lecholetebe to 
Timbo, " that the Damaras are your servants ? They are a 
mighty nation, rich in cattle, which I know well, because my 
father fought many a bloody battle with them. We invari- 
ably came off victorious, though often at the cost of numbers 
of our warriors, who were slain by the broad assegai of the Da- 
maras. All is not right ! Is your master richer than they ?" 

To this query Timbo logically replied, "No, my master 
no rich; master very poor ; but master has something, and Da- 
maras nothing ; therefore master more rich than Damaras." 

Timbo then explained the way in which that tribe had 



TIMBO TAKES THE LAW INTO HIS OWN HANDS. 403 

been impoverished and nearly exterminated, as also the mo- 
tives of our journey. On hearing all this, the apprehensions 
of the chief gradually subsided, and he became more com- 
municative and friendly, urging Timbo to return to me with- 
out delay and hurry on my departure, being anxious, as he 
said, for my arrival ; he moreover hinted that he would forth- 
with send men to meet and assist us in our progress. But 
here ended his courtesy ; for subsequently he allowed our 
party, while at his town, all but to starve. It seems a char- 
acteristic of black chieftains to be avaricious. 

Previously to reaching Lecholetebe's residence it was nec- 
essary to cross the Zouga, his town having been removed to 
the north side of the river, from fear, as it is said, of Sekomo, 
another Bechuana chieftain. When Timbo and his party 
were on their return to me, the natives refused to ferry them 
over the river without payment. " Me have no money," 
said Timbo ; ''but me soon make Caffres do it for nothing : 
me say, ' So you will not row me across !' And with that 
me lay hold of big stick, and me pitch into the rascals. Oh, 
master, such fun ! me now get plenty of boats." " But were 
you not afraid of resorting to such severe measures'?" I in- 
quired. " Me frightened !" he exclaimed ; " no, me flog na- 
tives very well ; it do them plenty good ; the fellows too lazy 
to do work." 

I now resolved to lose no more time, but to push on at 
once to the Lake. My leg had in some degree recovered its 
strength, but, unobserved by me, it had received a somewhat 
ugly twist. Little George first drew my attention to the 
fact : " Sir," said he, " your leg has grown crooked." 

" Crooked !" echoed I, somewhat angrily. " What do you 
mean?" 

" Only," he wickedly replied, " the calf is nearly where 
the shin ought to be." 

The boy's remark was not without foundation ; but in time 
the leg assumed its proper shape. 



404 GAME WARY ELEPHANTS APPROACHING. 

Notwithstanding my anxious desire to reach the Ngami — 
the goal of my wishes — I determined, before finally leaving 
Kobis, to devote one more day, or rather night, to the de- 
struction of the denizens of the forest. But the adventure 
nearly terminated fatally ; and the night of the 15th of July 
will ever be remembered by me as one of the most eventful 
epochs of my life ; for, in the course of it, I was three s^- 
eral times in the very jaws of death, and only escaped de- 
struction by a miracle. 

From the constant persecution to which the larger game 
bad of late been subjected at Kobis, it had become not only 
scarce, but wary ; and hearing that elephants and rhinoce- 
roses still continued to resort to Abeghan, I forthwith proceed- 
ed there on the night in question. Somewhat incautiously 
I took up my position — alone, as usual — on a narrow neck 
of land dividing two small pools, the space on either side 
of my "skarm" being only sufficient for a large animal to 
stand between me and the water. I was provided with a 
blanket and two or three spare guns. 

It was one of those magnificent tropical moonlight nights 
when an indescribable soft and enchanting light is shed over 
the slumbering landscape ; the moon was so bright and clear 
that I could discern even a small animal at a considerable 
distance. 

I had just completed my arrangements, when a noise that 
I can liken only to the passage of a train of artillery broke 
the stillness of the air ; it evidently came fi'om the direction 
of one of the numerous stony paths, or rather tracks, leading 
to the water, and I imagined it was caused by some wagons 
that might have crossed the Kalahari. Raising myself par- 
tially fi'om my recumbent posture, I fixed my eyes steadily on 
the part of the bush whence the strange sounds proceeded, 
but for some time I was unable to make out the cause. All 
at once, however, the mystery was explained by the appear- 
ance of an immense elephant, immediately followed by oth- 



m 



THE AUTHOR ESCAPES DEATH BY A MIRACLE. 405 

ers, amounting to eighteen. Their towering forms told me 
at a glance that they were all males. It was a splendid 
sight to behold so many huge creatures approaching with a 
free, sweeping, unsuspecting, and stately step. The some- 
what elevated ground whence they emerged, and which grad- 
ually sloped toward the water, together with the misty night 
air, gave an increased appearance of bulk and mightiness to 
their naturally giant structures. 

Crouching down as low as possible in the "skarm," I 
waited with beating heart and ready rifle the approach of the 
leading male, who, unconscious of peril, was making straight 
for my hiding-place. The position of his body, however, 
was unfavorable for a shot ; and, knowing from experience 
that I had little chance of obtaining more than a single good 
one, I waited for an opportunity to fire at his shoulder, 
which, as before said, is preferable to any other part when 
shooting at night. But this chance, unfortunately, was not 
afforded till his enormous bulk towered above my head. The 
consequence was, that, while in the act of raising the muzzle 
of my rifle over the " skarm," my body caught his eye, and, 
before I could place the piece to my shoulder, he swung him- 
self round, and with trunk elevated and ears spread, desper- 
ately charged me. It was now too late to think of flight, 
much less of slaying the savage beast. My own life was in 
imminent jeopardy ; and seeing that, if I remained partially 
erect, he would inevitably seize me with his proboscis, I 
threw myself on my back with some violence, in which 
position, and without shouldering the rifle, I fired upward at 
random toward his chest, uttering at the same time the most 
piercing shouts and cries. The change of position, in all 
human probability, saved my life ; for, at the same instant, 
the trunk of the enraged animal descended precisely on the 
spot where I had been previously couched, sweeping away 
the stones (many of a large size) that formed the fore part 
of my *' skarm" like so many pebbles. In another moment 
his broad fore feet passed directly over my face. 



406 



MORE CLOSE THAN AGREEABLE. 




M 



EXCITING SPORT. 407 

I now expected nothing short of being crushed to death. 
But imagine my relief when, instead of renewing the charge, 
he swerved to the left, and moved off with considerable rapid- 
ity, most happily without my having received other injuries 
than a few bruises, occasioned by the falling of the stones. 
Under Providence, I attribute my extraordinary escape to 
the confusion of the animal, caused by the wound I had in- 
flicted on him, and to the cries elicited from me when in my 
utmost need. 

Immediately after the elephant had left me I was on my 
legs„ and, snatching up a spare rifle lying at hand, I pointed 
at him as he was retreating, and pulled the trigger ; but, to 
my intense mortification, the piece missed flre. It was mat- 
ter of thankfulness to me, however, that a similar mishap had 
not occurred when the animal charged ; for, had my gun not 
then exploded, nothing, as I conceive, could have saved me 
from destruction. 

During this incident the rest of the elephants retreated 
into the bush ; but by the time I had repaired my " skarm," 
they reappeared with stealthy and cautious steps on the op- 
posite side of the pool, though so distant that I could not fire 
with any prospect of success. As they did not approach near- 
er, I attempted to stalk them, but they would not allow me 
to come to close quarters, and after a while moved off alto- 
gether. 

While pondering over my late wonderful escape, I observed, 
at a little distance, a huge white rhinoceros protrude his pon- 
derous and misshapen head through the bushes, and presently 
afterward he approached to within a dozen paces of my am- 
buscade. His broadside was then fully exposed to view, and 
notwithstanding I still felt a little nervous from my conflict 
with the elephant, I lost no time in firing. The beast did 
not at once fall to the ground, but from appearances I had 
every reason to believe he would not live long. 

Scarcely had I reloaded when a black rhinoceros of the 



408 KENCOUNTEKS WITH KHESTOCEROSES. 

species Keitloa (a female, as it proved) stood drinking at the 
water ; but her position, as with the elephant in the first in- 
stance, was unfavorable for a good shot. As, however, she 
was very near me, I thought I was pretty sure of breaking 
her leg and thereby disabling her, and in this I succeeded. 
My fire seemed to madden her : she rushed wildly forward on 
three legs, when I gave her a second shot, though apparently 
with little or no effect. I felt sorry at not being able to end 
her sufferings at once ; but, as I was too well acquainted with 
the habits of the rhinoceros to venture on pursuing her un- 
der the circumstances, I determined to wait patiently for day- 
light, and then destroy her with the aid of my dogs. But it 
was not to be. 

As no more elephants or other large game appeared, I 
thought, after a time, it might be as well to go in search of the 
white rhinoceros previously wounded ; and I was not long in 
finding his carcass ; for my ball, as I supposed, had caused 
his almost immediate death. 

In heading back to my " skarm," I accidentally took a turn 
in the direction pursued by the black rhinoceros, and by ill 
luck, as the event proved, at once encountered her. She was 
still on her legs, but her position, as before, was unfavorable. 
Hoping, however, to make her change it for a better, and 
thus enable me to destroy her at once, I took up a stone, and 
hurled it at lier with all my force ; when, snorting horribly, 
erecting her tail, keeping her head close to the ground, and 
raising clouds of dust by her feet, she rushed at me with fear- 
ful fury. I had only just time to level my rifle and fire be- 
fore she was upon me ; and the next instant, while instinct- 
ively turning round for the purpose of retreating, she laid me 
prostrate. The shock was so violent as to send my rifle, pow- 
der-flask, and ball-pouch, as also my cap, spinning in the air ; 
the gun, indeed, as afterward ascertained, to a distance of 
fully ten feet. On the beast charging me, it crossed my mind 
that, unless gored at once by her horn, her impetus would be 



J 



DESPERATE SITUATION. 



409 



■'! \ 




s 



410 WOUNDED BY A BLACK RHINOCEROS. 

such (after knocking me down, which I took for granted would 
be the case) as to carry her beyond me, and I might thus be 
afforded a chance of escape. So, indeed, it happened; for, 
having tumbled me over (in doing which her head, and the 
fore part of her body, owing to the violence of the charge, was 
half buried in the sand), and trampled on me with great vio- 
lence, her fore quarter passed over my body. Struggling for 
life, I seized my opportunity, and, as she was recovering her- 
self for a renewal of the charge, I scrambled out from between 
her hind legs. 

But the enraged beast had not yet done with me. Scarce- 
ly had I regained my feet before she struck me down a second 
time, and with her horn ripped up my right thigh (though not 
very deeply) from near the knee to the hip ; with her fore feet, 
moreover, she hit me a terrific blow on the left shoulder, near 
the back of the neck. My ribs bent under the enormous 
weight and pressure, and for a moment I must, as I believe, 
have lost consciousness — I have, at least, very indistinct no- 
tions of what afterward took place. All I remember is, that 
when I raised my head I heard a furious snorting and plung- 
ing among the neighboring bushes. I now arose, though with 
great difficulty, and made my way, in the best manner I was 
able, toward a large tree near at hand for shelter ; but this 
precaution was needless; the beast, for the time at least, 
showed no inclination further to molest me. Either in the 
melee^ or owing to the confusion caused by her wounds, she 
had lost sight of me, or she felt satisfied with the revenge she 
had taken. Be that as it may, I escaped with life, though 
sadly wounded and severely bruised, in which disabled state 
I had great difficulty in getting back to my " skarm." 

During the greater part of the conflict I preserved my 
presence of mind ; but after the danger was over, and when 
I had leisure to collect my scattered and confused senses, I 
was seized with a nervous affection, causing a violent trem- 
bling. ' I have since killed many rhinoceroses, as well for 



AUTHOR SAVES KAMAPYU'S LIFE. 411 

sport as food, but several weeks elapsed before I could again 
attack those animals with any coolness. 

About sunrise, Kamapyu, my half-caste boy, whom I had 
left on the preceding evening about half a mile away, came 
to the " skarm" to convey my guns and other things to our 
encampment. In few words I related to him the mishap 
that had befallen me. He listened with seeming incredulity, 
but the sight of my gashed thigh soon convinced him I was 
not in joke. 

I afterward directed him to take one of the guns and pro- 
ceed in search of the wounded rhinoceros, cautioning him to 
be careful in approaching the beast, which I had reason to 
believe was not yet dead. He had only been absent a few 
minutes when I heard a cry of distress. Striking my hand 
against my forehead, I exclaimed, "Good God I the brute 
has attacked the lad also !" 

Seizing hold of my rifle, I scrambled through the bushes 
as fast as my crippled condition would permit, and, when I 
had proceeded two or three hundred yards, a scene suddenly 
presented itself that I shall vividly remember to the last days 
of my existence. Among some bushes, and within a couple 
of yards of each other, stood the rhinoceros and the young 
savage, the former supporting herself on three legs, covered 
with blood and froth, and snorting in the most furious man- 
ner ; the latter petrified with fear — spell-bound, as it were — 
and riveted to the spot. Creeping, therefore, to the side of 
the rhinoceros opposite to that on which the boy was stand- 
ing, so as to draw her attention from him, I leveled and fired, 
on which the beast charged wildly to and fro without any 
distinct object. While she was thus occupied I poured in 
shot after shot, but thought she would never fall. At length, 
however, she*sank slowly to the ground, and, imagining that 
she was in her death agonies, and that all danger was over, 
I walked unhesitatingly close up to her, and was on the point 
of placing the muzzle of my gun to her ear to give her the 



412 REFLECTIONS SET OFF FOR THE LAKE. 

coup de grace, when, to my horror, she once more rose on her 
legs. Taking a hurried aim, I pulled the trigger, and instant- 
ly retreated, with the beast in full pursuit. The race, how- 
ever, was a short one, for, just as I threw myself into a bush 
for safety, she fell dead at my feet, so near me, indeed, that I 
could have touched her with the muzzle of my rifle ! Anoth- 
er moment, and I should probably have been impaled on her 
murderous horn, which, though short, was sharp as a razor.* 

When reflecting on the wonderful and providential es- 
capes I recently experienced, I could not help thinking "that 
I had been spared for some good purpose, and my heart was 
lifted in humble gratitude to the Almighty, who had thus 
extended over me His protecting hand. 

The second day after the scenes described my bruises be- 
gan to show themselves, and on the third day they were 
fully developed, giving my body a black and yellow hue. 
So far as I was aware, none of my bones were broken ; but 
burning and agonizing pains in the region of the chest were 
clearly symptomatic of severe internal injury. Indeed, at 
first, serious apprehensions were entertained for my life. 
After great suffering, however, I recovered ; and, as my shoot- 
ing mania had by this time somewhat cooled down, my whole 
thoughts were bent on seeing the Ngami. Though my frame 
was quite unequal to bear fatigue, my spirit would not brook 
longer delay. 

With the assistance of my men, I therefore mounted my 
steed on the 23d of July, and was off for the Lake, leaving 
my hunting spoils and other effects under the care of the 
Bushman-chief at Kobis. 

* The black rhinoceros is, under all circumstances, as already men- 
tioned, a morose and sulky beast. The one in question was unusual- 
ly savage, as she had probably a young sucking calf. We did not see 
the latter, it is true, but assumed such to be the case from the beast's 
teats being full of milk. It is most likely that her oiFspring was of too 
tender an age to accompany her, and that, as not unfrequently hap- 
pens, she concealed it among the bushes when about to quench her 
thirst at the pool. 



START FROM KOBIS MEET BECHUANAS. 413 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

Start from Kobis. — Meet Bechuanas. — False Eeport. — ^Wonderful 
Eace of Men. — The Baobob-tree. — The Ngami. — First Impressions 
of the Lake. — Reflections. — Experience some Disappointment. — 
Reach the Zouga River and encamp near it. — Interview with Chief 
Lecholetebe. — Information refused. — Immoderate Laughter. — Pres- 
ents to the Chief. — His Covetousness. — His Cruelty. — Formidable 
Difficulties. — Author permitted to proceed northward. 

Our first day's march from Kobis lay through an exceed- 
ingly dense " wait-a-bit" thorn coppice, crossed in every di- 
rection by numerous paths of rhinoceroses and elephants. 
The soil consisted of soft and yielding sand, which made trav- 
eling very fatiguing. The second day, at an early hour, we 
arrived at a fine vley of water, where I was met by a num- 
ber of Bechuanas (among whom were some of the leading 
men of the tribe) waiting to conduct me to Lecholetebe, who 
had given them orders to render me any assistance I might 
require. Whether this was from courtesy, or to serve his 
own purposes, I am uncertain ; though, from what I after- 
ward saw of the chief, I am inclined to think it was entirely 
from selfish motives. 

The men in question belonged to a tribe called Batoana, 
residing on the shores of the Lake Ngami. They were re- 
markably fine-looking fellows, stout and well built, with 
Caffre features and longish hair. Their appearance, indeed, 
was not unlike that of the Daraaras. One and all were 
armed with a shield (oblong in form, and made of a single 
fold of ox-hide), and a bundle of assegais of various descrip- 
tions, each provided with several barbs. What with these 
formidable weapons and their martial bearing, the aspect 
of these savages was imposing and warlike. They wore few 
or no ornaments. 



414 A FALSE ALARM SENSUALITY AND CUNNING. 

By a liberal supply of tobacco and flesh, we soon became 
excellent friends ; but all my endeavors to elicit information 
about the country were fruitless. They merely shrugged 
their shoulders, urging as an excuse their ignorance of such 
matters; they said, however, that their chief would, no 
doubt, satisfy my curiosity on these points. 

We bivouacked at the vley, where a great number of 
Bushmen — friends and relatives of those at Kobis — also hap- 
pened to be encamped. Just as I had retired to rest, and 
while watching with interest the animated features and ges- 
tures of our new friends, the Bechuanas, who, by a glorious 
fire, were regaling themselves with the pipe and the " flesh- 
pots," Bonfield came running up to me in great haste, say- 
ing, "Please, sir, the Bushmen tell us that Sebetoane, 
having heard of our coming, had sent a message to Lecho- 
letebe with orders to dispatch people to waylay and kill us, 
and that these were the very individuals to whom the task 
was intrusted !" 

Being myself by this time pretty well used to similarly 
absurd and unfounded stories, and knowing that I had noth- 
ing to fear, I took no notice of the communication, but again 
retired with as much unconcern as if I had been in a civil- 
ized country. This, however, was far from the case with my 
men, for the following morning I learned that their anxiety 
had kept them awake during the greater part of the night, 
and that some had actually packed up their things, intend- 
ing to steal away secretly. 

The next morning proved the groundlessness of the report. 
The Bushmen, we found, had fabricated the story as a means 
of prolonging my stay among them, in the anticipation of 
obtaining an occasional gorge from the spoils of the chase. 
The low cunning of this people is only equaled by their cre- 
dulity. To them, no tales can be too ridiculous and absurd 
for belief. For instance, my Bushmen guides amused me by 
relating one evening that a tribe of black people had just 



THE BAOBOB-TREE ENCAMP IN THE WOODS. 415 

taken up their abode a little in advance of us, " whose stom- 
achs rested on their knees, and whose whole aspect was of 
the most unnatural and ferocious character." 

About noon on the same day we were again en route. 
Instead of feeling our way by the zigzag tracks made by 
rhinoceroses and other wild beasts, our guides now took us a 
straight cut across the country, which was densely wooded. 

The " wait-a-bit" thorns were extremely harassing, tearing 
to ribbons our clothes, carosses, and even pack-saddle bags, 
made of strong ox-hide. Notwithstanding the wooded char- 
acter of the country, it affords excellent pasturage ; and the 
numerous old wells and pits found between Tunobis and the 
Ngami clearly indicate that these regions have, at no very 
remote period, been largely resorted to by some pastoral 
people. 

I hoped to reach the Lake by the evening, but sunset 
found us still at a distance from the object of our enterprise. 
We encamped in a dense brake, near to which were several 
gigantic baobob*-trees, the first we had seen ; the stems of 
some we judged to be from forty to sixty feet in circum- 
ference. Finding abundance of fuel, the wood was soon il- 
luminated by numerous watch-fires, around which, besides 
my own party, were grouped many a merry and laughing 
savage, each with his shield planted as a guard behind him. 
Altogether, the scene was striking and picturesque. 

The return of daylight found us again on the move. The 
morning being cool and pleasant, and our goal near, the 

* "The baobob," says Mr. Livingstone, "the body of which gives 
one the idea of a mass of granite, from its enormous size, yields a fruit 
about the size of a quart bottle ; the pulp between the seeds tastes like 
cream of tartar, and it is used by the natives to give a flavor to their 
porridge," Mr. Green writes me that plants have been raised in En- 
gland of the baobob from seeds brought home by his son, Frederick 
Green, who is at present treading in my tracks in the interior of South- 
western Africa. For further details of the baobob, see "Saturday 
Magazine" for the year 1832. 



416 FIRST YIEW Ol'^ THE LAKE GRATITUDE. 

whole party was in high spirits, and we proceeded cheerily 
on our road. 1 myself kept well ahead, in hope of obtaining 
the first glimpse of Ngami. The country hereabout was 
finely undulated, and in every distant vale with a defined 
border I thought I saw a lake. At last a blue line of great 
extent appeared in the distance, and I made sure it was the 
long-sought object ; but I was still doomed to disappointment. 
It turned out to be merely a large hollow, in the rainy season 
filled with water, but now dry and covered by saline incrust- 
ations. Several valleys, separated from each other by ridges 
of sand, bearing a rank vegetation, were afterward crossed. 
On reaching the top of one of these ridges, the natives, who 
were in advance of our party, suddenly came to a halt, and, 
pointing straight before them, exclaimed, "Ngami ! Ngami !" 
In an instant I was with the men. There, indeed, at no very 
great distance, lay spread before me an immense sheet of 
water, only bounded by the horizon — the object of my ambi- 
tion for years, and for which I had abandoned home and 
friends, and risked my life. 

The first sensation occasioned by this sight was very curi- 
ous. Long as I had been prepared for that event, it now al- 
most overwhelmed me. It was a mixture of pleasure and 
pain. My temples throbbed, and my heart beat so violently 
that I was obliged to dismount and lean against a tree for 
support until the excitement had subsided. The reader will 
no doubt think that thus giving way to my feelings was very 
childish ; but " those who know that the first glimpse of some 
great object which we have read or dreamed of from earliest 
recollection is ever a moment of intensest enjoyment, will 
forgive the transport." I felt unfeignedly thankful for the 
unbounded goodness and gracious assistance which I had ex- 
perienced from Providence throughout the whole of this pro- 
longed and perilous journey. My trials had been many; 
but, my deafest aspirations being attained, the difficulties 
were all forgotten. And here I could not avoid passing my 



DISAPPOINTMENT. 417 

previous life in review. I had penetrated into deserts almost 
unknown to civilized man ; had suffered the extremity of 
hunger and thirst, cold and heat ; and had undergone des- 
perate toil, sometimes nearly in solitude, and often without 
shelter during dreary nights in vast wildernesses haunted by 
beasts of prey. My companions were mostly savages. I 
was exposed to numerous perils by land and by water, and 
endured torments from wounds inflicted by wild animals. 
But I was mercifully preserved by the Creator through the 
manifold dangers that hovered round my path. To Him are 
due all homage, thanksgiving, and adoration. 

After feasting my eyes for a while on the interesting scene 
before me, we descended from the higher ground toward the 
Lake, which we reached in about an hour and a half. But, 
though we breathed a fresher atmosphere, no perfumed or 
balmy scents, as might have been anticipated on the borders 
of a tropical lake, were wafted on the breeze. 

Whether my expectations had been raised to too high a 
pitch, or that the grandeur of this inland sea and the luxu- 
riance of the surrounding vegetation had been somewhat ex- 
aggerated by travelers, I must confess that, on a closer in- 
spection, I felt rather disappointed. In saying this, I must 
admit having visited it at a season of the year little favora- 
ble to the display of its grandeur. But, if I am not mis- 
taken, its discoverers, Messrs. Oswell, Livingstone, and Mur- 
ray, saw it under no more auspicious circumstances. The 
eastern extremity, however, the only portion ever seen by the 
gentlemen in question, certainly possesses superior attrac- 
tions to the western, or where I first struck upon the Ngami. 

The Lake was now very low, and, at the point first seen 
by us, exceedingly shallow. The water, which had a very 
bitter and disagreeable taste, was only approachable in a few 
places, partly on account of the mud, and partly because of 
the thick coating of reeds and rushes that lined the shore, 
and which were a favorite resort of a great variety of water- 

S2 



418 ENCAMP ON THE ZOUGA ^FIRST INTERVIEW. 

fowl. Many species new to us were among them ; but we 
had no time to spare for approaching the birds. 

We twice bivouacked on the south border of Ngami before 
coming in sight of Lecholetebe's residence, situated on the 
north bank of the River Zouga, and at a short distance from 
where its waters separate themselves from the Lake. 

I had accomplished the journey from Kobis in five days. 
With unencumbered oxen, it might, with some exertion, be 
made in half this time. 

Lecholetebe requested me to pitch my tent in his immedi- 
ate vicinity ; but, feeling fatigued, and well knowing the in- 
convenience of being in too close proximity to the natives, we 
encamped on the south side of the Zouga. 

I determined to pay my respects to the chief at an early 
hour on the following morning. To make a favorable im- 
pression on the mind of savages at the first interview is of 
great importance, as much of their future good-will toward 
one depends on this, and scarcely any thing propitiates them 
more than outward show. 

Accordingly, at the contemplated hour, I donned my best 
apparel, which consisted of jacket and trowsers of fine white 
duck, a handsome red velvet sash, lined with silk of the same 
color, and a gold-embroidered skull-cap. 

The two last articles of dress were a memento of a dear 
female friend, and I had pledged myself to wear them on the 
first grand occasion. 

Having crossed the Zouga River, a few minutes' walk 
brought me to Batoana town, the capital and residence of 
Lecholetebe. I found the chief seated on a wooden stool, in 
the midst of forty or fifty of his followers, drinking coffee 
within a stout semicircular palisading. He was attired in 
a half-European and half-barbarous costume ; his lower ex- 
tremities were immersed in a pair of wide moleskin trowsers; 
he had incased his feet in socks and " veld" shoes, while from 
his shoulders depended gracefully a very handsome jackal 



THE CHIEF IGNORANT EXCHANGE VISIT. 419 

caross. This latter, however, Tie almost immediately ex- 
changed for waistcoat and jacket. 

Piet the Griqua, and a Bechuana man, whom a trader 
(then at the Lake) had kindly placed at my disposal, were 
my interpreters. After the first salutations were over, I ex- 
plained to the chief the motives of my visit, the friendly 
wishes of the British government at the Cape, and so forth. 
He listened to my story with apparent attention and in pro- 
found silence, eyeing me the whole time suspiciously. But 
he asked no question, nor did he venture any remark. 

Having conveyed to him all I had to say, I prepared to 
depart. Previously, however, to taking leave, I requested 
him to have the goodness to give me some information about 
his country, to which he abruptly replied, 

" I know nothing at all !" 

" Is there, then," I said, " none of your people who can 
furnish me with some account of it ?" 

"No," was his immediate answer. 

I was annoyed, but felt the necessity of concealing my 
vexation ; and, soon after rising, I said, " Well, Lecholetebe, 
perhaps, when we become better acquainted, you will be more 
communicative. In the mean time, when it suits you, come 
over to my encampment and have a chat, and maybe you 
will find something there to captivate your fancy." 

I had no occasion to say this twice, as I too soon found to 
my cost. Unlike our fat friend. King Nangoro, who had the 
courtesy to make us wait about three days before he conde- 
scended to see us, the Bechuana chief could scarcely restrain 
his curiosity for as many hours. 

When he arrived I was busy preparing some skins of birds 
and snakes, which caused no small amount of jesting among 
his followers. One fellow, more inquisitive and impertinent 
than the rest, approached close to me, and, seizing one of the 
reptiles by the tail, held it up before the multitude, which 
were now thronging my tent to inconvenience, and, address- 



420 IMMODERATE LAUGHTER PRESENTS. 

ing to it some unintelligible words, the whole assembly burst 
out into a deafening roar of laughter. Indeed, the mirth be- 
came so outrageous as to throw the party into convulsions, 
many casting themselves at full length on the ground, with 
their hands tightly clasped across their stomachs, as if in fear 
of bursting, while their greasy cheeks became furrowed with 
tears trickling down in streams. Fancy, reader, a royal cor- 
tege prostrated in the dust by laughter ! Although this mer- 
riment was, no doubt, at my expense, the sight more amused 
than annoyed me. 

As soon as the noise had subsided, I brought forward my 
presents for the chief, consisting of beads, knives, tobacco, 
snuiF, steel chains, rings, blue calico, red woolen caps, and 
trinkets of various kinds. Without deigning even a look of 
satisfaction, Lecholetebe silently distributed the goods among 
the principal of his men who were grouped around him, re- 
serving, apparently, nothing to himself. This being done, he 
looked anxiously round, from which I inferred that some un- 
gratified desire was still on his heart. Nor was I deceived; 
for all at once he inquired whether I had not brought him 
some powder and lead, which he might barter for ivory. I 
told him that I had some ; but, firstly, it was not more than 
I myself wanted ; and, secondly, I was prohibited by the 
British government at the Cape from disposing of either arms 
or ammunition, and that I could not think of disobeying these 
orders. 

At this declaration his countenance fell, and I saw clear- 
ly that he was very much annoyed. But I was prepared for 
his displeasure ; and, by opportunely placing in his hand a 
double-barreled pistol, which I had previously been informed 
he coveted excessively, and which I begged him to accept as 
a memento of my visit, his visage soon beamed with delight 
and satisfaction, and we became excellent friends. 

When Europeans first visited the Lake, tliey were, I am 
told, liberally entertained by Lecholetebe ; but, whatever ci- 



POLICY AND POWER OF LECHOLETEBK. 421 

vility he might have shown to strangers in former times, 
much can not be said in favor of his hospitality at the pres- 
ent day. During my vi^hole stay at the Lake, I never received 
from him so much as a handful of corn or a cup of milk. 
On the contrary, he, w^hile we ourselves were almost starv- 
ing, was in the habit of begging food daily from me. 

If any thing takes his fancy — no matter what, it may be 
the shirt you wear — he has no scruple in asking you for it 
at once. Upon your refusal, he will, perhaps, leave you for 
a time, but is sure to return and renew his request with the 
greatest pertinacity, never ceasing his solicitations till, by his 
vexatious importunity, he has succeeded in getting the object 
of his desire — a line of policy the success of which he seems 
fully to understand. 

The arrival of several wagons at the Lake at the same 
time puts him in the highest glee. On these occasions he 
never fails to make his rounds, craving bread from one, sugar 
from another, coffee from a third, meat from a fourth, and 
so on. 

The traders, however, know how to take advantage of this 
weakness in his character, and often make him pay dearly 
for such articles as may captivate his fancy ; for instance, I 
have known a man to get a good-sized bull-elephant tusk for 
three common copper drinking-cups!* 

Lecholetebe possesses great power over his people, when 
he chooses to exercise it ; but I am inclined to think their 
subjection is attributable more to superstition and the force 
of custom than to any real regard for his person. Gener- 
ally speaking, he is not of a cruel disposition ; but that he 
holds human life in very light estimation, the following in- 
cident, which came under my own immediate notice, serves 
to show. 

* When the lake was first discovered, a man told me that he ob- 
tained, in exchange for a musket, twelve hundred pounds of ivory, 
worth, at the least, £240 sterling ! 



422 HUMAN LIFE LITTLE VALUED BY LECHOLETEBE. 

Having lately bought some horses, two Bushmen were or- 
dered to take charge of them ; but, unfortunately, by their 
neglect, one of the animals fell into a quagmire, and was suf- 
focated. Being afraid to tell the truth, they reported to the 
chief that the horse had died from the effects of the bite of a 
snake. On hearing this, Lecholetebe questioned the men aa 
to the part of the body wounded by the reptile, and being 
told that it was in the head, he ordered the men to lead him 
to the place, that he might see for himself. On arriving at 
the spot, he at once saw how the case stood, and told the 
Bushmen that the animal had not died from the bite of a 
snake, but was evidently choked in the mud, to which they 
confessed, as there was no longer any chance of concealing 
the truth. Without further question or remark, the chief or- 
dered the halter of the dead horse to be loosened, and the 
hands and feet of the Bushmen to be secured with it. This 
being done, they were thrown into the mud alongside the 
dead quadruped, where, of course, they soon miserably perish- 
ed, Lecholetebe coolly exclaiming, " There, now mind the 
horse!" 

Another instance of the little value he sets on human 
(rather Bushman) life I have upon good authority. A Bush- 
man lad, who had long been successfully engaged in sheep- 
stealing, was at length detected, and, as a punishment for his 
crimes, was tied to a tree, and practiced upon with guns at 
the long distance of two hundred paces. 

The object I had now chiefly in view was to visit a place 
called Libebe, situated considerably to the north of the Lake, 
not so much to see the country as to collect information in 
regard to the mighty waters (part of which are tributaries to 
the Ngami) lately brought to light in that remote region, as 
also to ascertain if any water communication existed with 
the sea. But many difficulties were in the way. My people 
refused almost to a man to accompany me ; and as our agree- 
ment only bound them as far as the Ngami, I could not com- 



ANXIOUS TO VISIT LIBEBE LECHOLETEBE CONSENTS. 423 

pel them to go on. The parts that I should have to pass 
through are infected with fevers fatal to human life ; and then, 
again, the tsetse fly abounds, which, from the ravages it causes 
among cattle, renders traveling by land almost impossible. 

The only way left was to penetrate northward by water, 
if practicable ; but here again I found serious impediments. 
I had no boat of my own, and Lecholetebe (like all native 
chiefs) was known to be particularly hostile to any attempt 
to pass, beyond his territory. Not the most alluring promises 
of presents and rewards had yet succeeded in inducing him 
to assist any one in this matter. Consequently, I could not 
expect that he would treat me differently, the rather as I 
was really not in a position to offer him a bribe of any value. 
It being a darling scheme of mine, however, to penetrate to 
Libebe, I was determined on carrying it out, if possible. 

Accordingly, I seized the first favorable opportunity of 
broaching the subject to the chief, and requested he would 
furnish me with men and canoes. To my great astonish- 
ment, but no less delight, and without the slightest objec- 
tion, he agreed to my proposal. As, however, I could not 
flatter myself that I had produced a more favorable impres- 
sion than any other traveler, I suspected deceit of some kind, 
and the sequel proved I was not mistaken in my conjecture. 



CHAPTER XXXIY. 



The Ngami. — When discovered. — Its various Names. — Its Size and 
Form. — Great Changes in its Waters. — Singular Phenomenon. — The 
Teoge River. — The Zouga River. — The Mukuru-Mukovanja River. 
— Animals. — Birds. — Crocodiles. — Serpents. — Fish. 

At an early period of the present century rumors had 
reached Europeans of a vast lake in the interior of South 
Africa, but for a very long time its existence continued to be 
involved in mystery, and travelers and hunters were unavail- 



1 



424 THE NGAMI WHEN DISCOVERED NAMES. 

ingly expending their resources and energies to solve the grand 
problem. 

The cause of all these failures was chiefly to be found in 
the desert and inhospitable regions which lie between the 
explorers and the supposed lake, commonly known as the 
Kalahari desert. Toward the close of 1849, however, and 
when the hope of our being able to overcome this apparently 
insurmountable barrier was almost extinguished, the great 
object was accomplished by the persevering exertions of 
Messrs. Oswell, Livingstone, and Murray, and the existence 
was made knowji of a fine fresh-water lake in the centre of 
South Africa. 

This important and highly interesting discovery at once 
opened a new and extensive field for the inquiries of the ge- 
ographer and the naturalist, and gave a fresh impulse to the 
enterprising and speculating spirit of the colonists of South- 
ern Africa. The lake was described as a magnificent sheet 
of water, abounding in fish and hippopotami, and the coun- 
try around as well stocked with elephants and other large 
game, while the vegetation was said to be on the most lux- 
uriant scale. The discovery excited very considerable in- 
terest. 

The Lake goes with the natives by dificrent names — all of 
which are more or less appropriate — such as Inghabe (the gi- 
raffe) ; Noka ea Botletle (lake of the Botletle) ; Noka ea Mo- 
horbn (lake of boats) ; and Ngami, or The Waters. As the 
last designation is the one by which the Lake is best known 
to Europeans, I will retain it throughout the remainder of 
this narrative. 

As before said, on taking a nearer survey of the Lake, I 
experienced some disappointment as to its attractions. It is, 
however, indisputably a fine sheet of water, but in size is 
somewhat overrated, the estimation of its length alone being 
at one time considered no less than one hundred miles, and 
the width about fifteen or sixteen. The misconception may 



SIZE AND FORM OF THE LAKE. 425 

thus, perhaps, be accounted for. In the first instance, no 
person, to the best of my belief, has ever yet been quite round 
it ; secondly, the shores — with the exception of the south and 
west sides — are low and sandy, and in hazy weather can not 
easily be distinguished ; and, lastly, I am inclined to think 
that the discoverers mistook its length for its breadth, for, 
according to Cooly, "The travelers beheld with delight the 
fine river, and the Lake extending out of sight to the north 
and west." Again, my friend Mr. Frederick Green, who 
visited the Lake shortly after its discovery, thus states, in 
his manuscript journal, the impression he experienced on first 
viewing it. 

" The day after reaching the town of Batoani, we took a 
ride to view the Lake. From the southern side, we could 
trace the opposite shore some ten or twelve miles, but be- 
yond that distance, and to the westward, we could not, even 
with the aid of a telescope, discern any sign of land — only a 
blue horizon of water. In a subsequent journey, however, 
and when traveling along its southern shores, I found that 
the opposite strand could always be seen. When first view- 
ing it, we were not, as we then thought, looking across, but 
lengthwise.^^ 

The whole circumference is probably about sixty or seven- 
ty geographical miles ; its average breadth is seven miles, and 
not exceeding nine at its widest parts. Its shape, moreover, 
is narrow in the middle and bulging out at the two ends ; 
and I may add, that the first reports received many years 
ago from the natives about the Lake, and which concurred in 
representing it of the shape of a pair of spectacles, are correct. 

The northern shore of Ngami is low and sandy, without a 
tree or bush, or any other kind of vegetation within half a 
mile, and more commonly a mile. Beyond this distance 
(almost all round the lake) the country is very thickly wood- 
ed with various sorts of acacia indigenous to Southern Africa, 
the Damai'a " parent tree," a few species of wild fruit-trees, 



426 GREAT CHANGES IN THE LAKE. 

and here and there an occasional baobob, which raises its 
enormous head high above the highest giant of the forest. 
The southern coast of the Lake is considerably elevated, and 
the water is so closely fringed by extensive belts of reeds and 
rushes that it is only accessible in a few places, or where the 
native cattle have broken through these natural defenses. 
The west shore of the Lake is also somewhat raised, though 
the water is very shallow; but it deepens considerably to- 
ward its eastern extremity. 

The Ngami must have undergone very considerable changes 
at different periods. The natives have frequently pointed 
out to me places, now covered with vegetation, where they 
used to spear the hippopotamus. Again, there are unmis- 
takable proofs of its having been at one time of smaller di- 
mensions than at present, for submerged stumps of trees are 
constantly met with. This is not, I believe, to be attributed 
to the upheaving or to the sinking of the land, but that, in 
all probability, the Lake was originally of its present size, 
or nearly so, when a sudden and unusually large flood poured 
into it from the interior, which, on account of the flatness 
of the country, could not be drained off as quickly as it flow- 
ed in, but caused the water to rise above its usual height, 
which, remaining in that state some time, soon destroyed the 
vegetation. 

Before the Lake was known, and when only rumors had 
reached us of its existence, the natives spoke of its waters as 
retiring daily to " feed." But I am rather inclined to think 
they pointed to a singular phenomenon that I observed when 
navigating its broad waters, which I then attributed to the 
wind, though, on consideration, I suspect it was more likely 
to have arisen from the effects of the moon's attraction. 

When navigating the Lake, we were in the habit of land-- 
ing every night to bivouac, always taking the precaution to 
unload the most important articles of our baggage. The 
canoes were then pushed in shore as far as the shallowness 



THE TEOGE ITS SOURCE UNKNOWN. 427 

of the water would permit, and left to themselves, perhaps, 
as far as two hundred yards from terra firma. On remon- 
strating with the boatmen for not better securing our little 
flotilla, they replied that any further precautions were un- 
necessary, inasmuch as the water (which had already begun 
to ebb) would shortly recede and leave the canoes dry on the 
beach. I felt skeptical, but, nevertheless, allowed them to 
have their own way. In the course of the night it fell calm 
(a fresh breeze had been blowing during the day), and next 
morning we found that what the boatmen had predicted was 
fulfilled ; the canoes were as far from the water as, on the 
preceding evening, they had been from the shore. 

From the time that the wind fell the water began slowly 
to return, and about nine o'clock in the morning it was at 
its usual height, and the canoes floated once more without 
any effort on our side. 

,The Lake is fed by the Teoge at its northwest extremity. 
The river never, perhaps, much exceeds forty yards ; but it 
is deep, and, when at its greatest height, contains a large vol- 
ume of water. Its annual overflow takes place in June, July, 
and August, and sometimes even later. The source of the 
Teoge is as yet unknown, but is supposed to be very distant. 
It may probably have its rise on the same high table-land 
as the Quanza, and other streams of importance. The main 
course of the Teoge is northwest, but it is so serpentine that, 
in thirteen days when I ascended it, traveling on an average 
five miles per day, and reckoning two and a quarter miles to 
the hour, I only made about one degree of latitude due north 
of the Lake. As far as I proceeded, however, it was naviga- 
ble with smaller craft; for only in three. places that I can 
remember did I find less than five feet of water, and, gener- 
ally speaking, the depth was considerable. It must be recol- 
lected, however, that it was then at its greatest height. 

Though that portion of the Teoge ascended by me is nar- 
row, I am told that, on approaching its source, it widens 



428 THE ZOUGA GREAT HEED VLEY. 

considerably (one of the many curious points in African 
geography) ; and the country on both sides is often inundated 
to a very great extent, frequently having the appearance of 
an endless lake, thickly overgrown vv^ith reeds and rushes, 
and dotted with islets covered with beautiful trees and shrubs. 

At its eastern extremity the Ngami finds an outlet (the 
only one) in the fine and stately Zouga. This river, near to 
Batoana-town, where it escapes from the Lake, is about two 
hundred yards wide, and, from its gentle flow, appears at 
rest, the motion of the stream being imperceptible to the eye. 
Indeed, it is asserted by some — and should it be found cor- 
rect, it certainly would be a most extraordinary fact — that 
the waters of the Zouga are, at one time of the year, forced 
back into the Lake by a branch of the Teoge, which river 
thus not only feeds the Lake at its northwest extremity, as 
has been already stated, but at the east as well. From the 
very imperfect development of the water-courses in these 
parts, I do not think this impossible. 

The Zouga continues to run in an easterly direction from 
the Lake for nearly a month's journey, or a distance of about 
three hundred miles, taking all the windings into account, 
when it is lost in an immense marsh or sand-flat,* called, by 
some. Great Reed Vley. It is a perfect sea of reeds (with 
occasional openings), and affords a favorite resort to innu- 
merable herds of buffaloes. 

About twenty miles before the Zouga ceases to flow it ex- 
pands into a lake from two to four miles broad, and about 
twelve or fifteen in extent. During the dry season this riv- 
er presents " a series of pools with dry spaces between." 

The vegetation all along its course is varied and luxuri- 

* Many are of opinion that this river continues to flow subterrane- 
ously, and that it ultimately finds an outlet into the sea on the east 
coast. It is by no means uncommon in African geography — and we 
have in England an instance of it in the Mole — to find a river sud- 
denly disappearing and as unexpectedly reappearing at some little 
distance. 



a 



THE ZOUGA. 429 

ant, and in some places the scenery is quite charming, the 
banks of the river being often, to the very water's edge, cov- 
ered w^ith majestic trees of beautiful and dense foliage. The 
baobob is particularly conspicuous, attaining, not unfrequent- 
ly, round its stem, a girth of from sixty to seventy-five feet. 
" The banks," says Mr. Livingstone, in a letter to a friend, 
"are beautiful beyond any we had ever seen, except, per- 
haps, some parts of the Clyde. * * * The higher we as- 
cended the river the broader it became, until we often saw 
more than one hundred yards of clear deep water between 
the broad belt of reed which grows in the shallower parts. 
* * * One remarkable feature in this river is its period- 
ical rise and fall. It has risen nearly three feet since our ar- 
rival ; and this is the dry season. That the rise is not caused 
by rains is evident from the water being so pure. Its purity 
and softness increased as we ascended toward its junction 
with the Taraanakle, from which, although connected with 
the lake, it derives its present increased supply. The people 
could give no reason for the rise of the water further than 
that a chief, who lives in a part of the country to the north, 
called Mazzekiva, kills a man annually and throws his body 
into the stream, after which the water begins to flow." 

Before closing my remarks on the rivers of the Lake, I 
must beg to draw the attention of the reader to a circum- 
stance which may prove of the most vital interest to the civ- 
ilization and commerce of these regions. It is as follows : 

About two days west of the Teoge, two rivers are report- 
ed to exist. The one is a small branch of the Teoge, and is 
supposed, after meandering through a desert for a couple of 
days, to lose itself in a marsh. The second (and to which I 
particularly desire to draw notice) is of larger dimensions, 
though, near to its source, only periodical. In its course, 
however, it is fed by fountains — not an uncommon thing in 
Africa — and it soon increases to a constantly running stream. 
In due time it becomes a mighty river, flowing slowly through 



430 



THE MUKURU-MUKOVANJA. 



the country of several black nations, and ultimately discharg- 
ing itself into the sea. This is the statement of a party of 
Griquas who traveled in this direction in search of elephants. 
I should, perhaps, have hesitated to give credit to their ac- 
count had it not, on more than one occasion, been corrobo- 
rated. While on our visit to the Ovambo, we inquired, as 
mentioned, if they were not aware of any permanently run- 
ning river in their neighborhood, to which they immediately 
and unhesitatingly replied in the affirmative. "The Cu- 
nene," they said, " was only four or five days' foot-journey 
distant from them," but added " that it was not to be com- 
pared with a river called Mukuru-Mukovanja, that comes 
out of Ovatjona-land (clearly the Bechuana country), of 
which the Cunene is only a branch." This valuable and in- 
teresting information was confirmed by the Hill-Damaras. 

Again, when Mr. Galton and myself, distant only some 
eight or ten days' journey fi'om the Lake, were obliged to 
retrace our steps on account of excessive drought, we were 
informed by the Bushmen of the existence of a large river 
to the north, coming from Bechuana-land, and running west- 
ward. They further added that another small river comes 
from the same direction, but is soon lost in the sand, or ter- 
minates in a marsh. Now, excepting that the latter is a 
branch of the Teoge (instead of having its source in the 
Lake, in common with the large river, as they asserted), their 
account may be said to have been substantiated. 

From these statements, the existence of a river, in all 
probability of great magnitude, and perhaps navigable to its 
very source, or nearly so, is so far authenticated that I have 
had no hesitation in laying it down on my map. Assuming 
that the Teoge and the Mukuru-Mukovanja run parallel, 
though in contrary directions, at the distance from each other 
of two or three days' journey, as I was informed by the 
Griquas above mentioned, there exists an almost uninterrupt- 
ed navigation of several hundred miles, afibrding a compara- 



f 



THE LECHE. 431 

tively easy transport to the sea-coast of the produce of a rich 
and fertile interior. 

A great variety of animals are found in the Lake regions, 
more especially in the vicinity of the rivers,* such as ele- 
phants, rhinoceroses, buffaloes, giraffes, koodoos, pallahs, &c., 
as also two new species of antelopes, the nakong and the 
leche, both of which are well represented on the following 
plate. 

The leche bears some resemblance to the pallah, but is 
altogether a larger animal. In size, indeed, it almost equals 
the water-buck (aigocerus ellipsiprymnus), and the horns are 
very similar to those of the male of that beast. The general 
color of the skin is a pale brown ; chest, belly, and orbits, 
white ; and front of legs dark brown. The fur (which in the 
young animal is long, soft, and often curly) of the adult is 
short and " adpressed." The upper part of the nape and 
withers are provided with a small whorl of hair. The tip 
of the tail (slender at the base) is adorned with a tuft of 
black hair. 

The leche is a species of water-buck ; for, though not act- 
ually living in water, he is never found any distance from it. 
When pursued, the leche unhesitatingly plunges into the 
water, however deep. Great numbers are annually destroy- 
ed by the Bayeye, who convert their hides into a kind of rug 
for sleeping on, carosses, and other articles of wearing apparel. 

To the best of my belief, the nakong has never been de- 
scribed by naturalists, f Unfortunately, the materials I pos- 

* Dr. Livingstone informs us that on the first discovery of the 
Zouga, its banks literally swarmed with wild animals, and that in the 
course of three years no less than nine hundred elephants were killed. 
However, from the persecution to which the game is constantly ex- 
posed, and the introduction of fire-arms, the number of animals has 
rapidly decreased, and what remain are wild and wary. 

t Dr. Gray, of the British Museum, to whom I submitted an imper- 
fect skin and a sketch of the head of the nakong, is unable to determ- 
ine its exact nature, but seems inclined to consider it identical with 



432 



NAKONG AND LECHE. 




i 



THE NAKONG. 433 

sessed, and which would, in some degree, have enabled me to 
supply this deficiency, were left behind in Africa. Through 
the kindness of Colonel Steele, an opportunity has been af- 
forded me of inspecting one or two heads of the nakong, as 
also a caross (brought from the Lake Ngami by Mr. Oswell) 
made out of pieces of the skins of this animal. But they are 
all so imperfect that to attempt any thing like a scientific 
description would be ineffectual ; the more so, perhaps, as I 
only once had an opportunity of viewing a pair of nakongs, 
and that was at a distance. Suffice it, therefore, to say, that 
the general color of the animal is a subdued brown, darkest 
on the back, and on the front of head and legs. Beneath it 
is of a lighter hue — almost ash-colored. On each side of the 
rump, as also on the inside of the legs, if I remember rightly, 
there is a whitish line or patch. The hair of the skin, which 
is much used by the natives for carosses, is long and coarse. 
The horns are black, very like those of the koodoo, and, in 
the adult animal, would appear to attain to an equal, if not 
larger size. Before they are much developed there is scarce- 

the tragelaphus eurycerus — the broad-horned antelope — of which speci- 
mens of horns and heads have been brought from the Bight of Biafra, 
on the west coast of Africa. In the "Proceedings of the Zoological 
Society," No. 250, p. 47, the following details appear : 

"Head, pale brown. Broad band before the eyes, and two large 
spots on cheeks ; chin and front of upper lip white. Horns elongate, 
thick, scarcely bent forward at the tip. Throat with long black hairs." 

Again, from a head in Mr. Warwick's collection : 

" The horns are very similar to those of t. angasii^ but the head is 
considerably larger, nearly as large as that of the koodoo, and the 
horns are thicker and larger ; they are twenty-seven inches long in a 
straight line from base to tip, and nine inches in circumference at the 
base. The hair of the head is also paler and more uniformly colored, 
and with very large white spots on the cheek, much larger than those 
of the koodoo or of t. angasii. The throat has a distinct mane of black- 
ish rigid hairs. The muffle is very- like that of t. angasii, and larger 
than that of the koodoo. The skull is imperfect; it has no appear- 
ance of any suborbital pit or slit." 

T 



434 



HIPPOPOTAMI OTTERS BIRDS. 



ly any indication of spiral turns, and they are then not un- 
like the horns of goats. 

The nakong is a water-buck. By means of its peculiarly 
long hoofs (which are black), not unfrequently attaining a 
length of six to seven inches, it is able to traverse with fa- 
cility the reedy bogs and quagmires with which the lake 
country abounds — localities only fit for the feathery tribe. 
When at the Ngami I offered very tempting rewards to the 
natives if they would bring me this animal either dead or 
alive; but they protested that, though they frequently kill 
the nakong by pitfalls and spears, it was not then possible 
to gratify my wishes, as, at that season, the beast dwelt al- 
most entirely in muddy and watery localities, where any at- 
tempt to follow it would be certain destruction to a man. 

Hippopotami abound on the northern side of the Ngami, 
and more especially toward its northwest extremity, or to 
the right of where the Teoge River enters the lake. 

Otters are not uncommon in the rivers and the Lake. They 
appear to be of the same species as with us, but present great 
variety of color. The fur is good, and much sought after. 

If the quadrupeds of the Lake Fauna are numerous and 
varied, the aves class is no less rich and abundant. In our 
first journey through Damara-land I had made such a com- 
plete collection of its birds and insects that I almost despair- 
ed of obtaining any thing new and interesting; but here I 
found at once an unexplored and almost unlimited field for 
the naturalist. Unfortunately, I was not in a state to be 
able to benefit, to any extent, by its abundance and variety, 
which I regret exceedingly. 

The aquatic birds were particularly numerous and varied. 
A friend who visited the Lake assured me that here and on 
the Zouga he had, at one time and another, killed specimens 
of no less than nineteen species of ducks and geese. One of 
the latter varieties is not larger than a common teal, but 
clothed in the most brilliant plumage. The herons and 



THE CROCODILE. 435 

water-hens vie with the duck tribe in numbers and gaudi- 
iiess of plumage. During a hurried journey up the Teoge, 
I procured, in a short time, herons of upward of ten distinct 
species, besides several different kinds of storks, cranes, &c. 

The Lake and its rivers swarm with crocodiles. During 
the cold time of the year they resort to deep water, where 
they remain in a state of comparative inactivity ; but on the 
approach of the hot season they again come forward, and 
may be seen lying in great numbers along the banks, basking 
in the noonday sun, and looking exactly like so many logs of 
wood. I have often surprised them in this position ; and, 
if not too close, they have invariably feigned to be asleep. 
The instant, however, that I have raised my gun, or even 
merely pointed toward them, they have plunged into the deep 
like a shot. 

They are said occasionally to attain a gigantic size, but 
no authenticated instance has come to my knowledge of any 
specimen being killed which measured above fifteen or sixteen 
feet, though I have heard it asserted that they sometimes 
reach double that length. 

The crocodile chiefly lives on quadrupeds, which he lies in 
wait for, and destroys when coming to drink ; but he is said 
never to devour his prey before the flesh has arrived at a state 
of putrefaction. 

When in its native element, the power of this animal must 
be enormous ; for if the testimony of the inhabitants is to be 
relied on, he not unfrequently succeeds in destroying the buf- 
falo, which they say he accomplishes by seizing the beast by 
the muzzle and dragging him into deep water, where he suf- 
focates him. This being done, he hauls his victim back to 
the shore, and, pushing the carcass above water-mark, watch- 
es over it until it has become nicely tainted, when he com- 
mences his feast. 

From the moist and swampy nature of the ground about 
the Lake and the rivers, snakes, as may well be supposed, arc- 



43 G SERPENTS FISH ^THE BATOANA. 

numerous ; but, though they at times attain a gigantic size, 
they appear very harmless, being often destroyed by the na- 
tives, who devour them with great relish. I never myself 
saw a specimen exceeding seven or eight feet in length, but 
procured skins measuring fully three times that size. The 
Bushmen assured me that they not unfrequently surprise 
these monsters when asleep and gorged, and that on such oc- 
casions it was not unusual to dispatch them with a blow on 
the head from the knob-kierie. These snakes feed chiefly on 
birds and smaller quadrupeds. 

The finny tribe was also pretty numerous ; but my stay at 
the Lake was of too short a duration to collect much infor- 
mation on this head. I saw and tasted many different kinds, 
some of which were most excellent eating, and had a rich 
and agreeable flavor. The only ones, however, which I re- 
member had any likeness to northern fishes were a sort of 
perch, and one or two barbel kinds. 



CHAPTER XXXV. 



The Batoana. — Government. — Eloquence. — Language. — Mythology. 
— ^Religion. — Superstition. — The Rain-maker. — Polygamy. — Cir- 
cumcision. — ^Burial. — ^Disposition of the Bechuanas. — Thievish Pro- 
pensities. — Dress. — Great SnufF-takers. — Smoking. — Occupations. 
— Agriculture. — Commerce. — Hunting and Fishing. 

The people who dwell on the shores of the Lake are, as 
before said, called Batoana,* under the rule of Lecholetebe. 
They are a small tribe of that large family of *' blacks" 

* Some of the notions entertained of these people before the exist- 
ence of the Ngami was known to Europeans are curious and amusing. 
Captain Messum, in an article in the Nautical Magazine on " the ex- 
ploration of Western Africa," says that he had heard the inhabitants 
of the Lake regions represented as monsters, with only one eye in the 
centre of the forehead, and feeding on human flesh, as the giants of 
old used to take their breakfasts. " A baby was nothing ; they swal- 
lowed it whole." 



THE BECHUANAS ^THE BATOANA GOVERNMENT. 437 

known as Bechuanas, who, as a whole, are probably the most 
widely distributed and the most powerful of all the dark- 
colored nations in Southern Africa. The Batoana have not 
been long dwellers in the Lake regions; they came as con- 
querors under Lecholetebe's father. Having dispossessed the 
aborigines, they reduced them to a state of slavery, giving 
them a name corresponding to their condition, viz., Balcoba. 
or Makoha, that is, "serfs." These people, however, style 
themselves Bayeye, or "Men;" and by that appellation I 
shall hereafter call them. 

In giving a general description of the manners and cus- 
toms, religious rites, superstitions, &c., of the Bechuanas — 
the parent stock, as shown, of the Batoanas — I shall also have 
described those of the latter tribe ; for, though they may differ 
in some respects, they agree in the main. 

"The government of the people is at once both monarch- 
ical and patriarchal, and comparatively mild in its character. 
Each tribe has its chief or king, who commonly resides in the 
largest town, and is held sacred from his hereditary right to 
that office. A tribe generally includes a number of towns or 
villages, each having its distinct head, under whom there are 
a number of subordinate chiefs. These constitute the aris- 
tocracy of the nation, and all acknowledge the supremacy of 
the principal one. His power, though very great, and in 
some instances despotic, is, nevertheless, controlled by the 
senior chiefs, who, in their pichos or pitshos (their Parliament 
or public meetings), use the greatest plainness of speech in 
exposing what they consider culpable or lax in his govern- 
ment. An able speaker will sometimes turn the scale even 
against the king. * * * These assemblies keep up a 
tolerable equilibrium of power between the chiefs and their 
king; but they are only convened when it is necessary to 
adjust differences between tribes — when a predatory expedi- 
tion is to be undertaken — or when the removal of a tribe is 



438 



THE BECHUANA PICHO ELOQUENCE. 




THE BECHTTANA PICHO. 



contemplated, though occasionally matters of less moment 
are introduced."* 

The language used by the natives on public occasions, and 
more especially by the chiefs, is often powerful, eloquent, 
shrewd, and fluent, and would do honor to the best edu- 
cated European. Take the following speech as an example, 
which contains the address of the famous Basuto king, Mo- 
sheshe, to his people, when congratulating them on the happy 
event of having received three worthy missionaries among 
tlikm: 

" Rejoice, you Makare and Mokatchani ! you rulers of 
cities, rejoice ! We have all reason to rejoice on account of 
the news we have heard. There are a great many sayings 
among men. Among them some are true and some are 
false ; but the false have remained with us and multiplied ; 
therefore we ought to pick up carefully the truths we hear, 
lest they should be lost in the rubbish of lies. We are told 
that we have all been created by one Being, and that we all 
spring from one man. Sin entered man's heart when he ate 

* Moffat. 



LANGUAGE ^SIYTHOLOGY. 439 

the forbidden fruit, and we have got sin from him. These 
men say that they have sinned ; and what is sin in them is 
sin in us, because we come from one stock, and their hearts 
and ours are one thing. Ye Makare have heard these words, 
and you say they are lies. If these words do not conquer, 
the fault will lie with you. You say you will not believe 
what you do not understand. Look at an egg ! If a man 
break it, there comes only a watery and yellow substance out 
of it ; but if it be placed under the wing of a fowl, a living 
thing comes from it. Who can understand this ? Who ever 
knew how the heat of the hen produced the chicken in the 
egg"? This is incomprehensible to us, yet we do not deny 
the fact. Let us do like the hen. Let us place these truths 
in our hearts as the hen does the eggs under her wings ; let 
us sit upon them, and take the same pains, and something 
new will come of them." 

The language of the Bechuanas (the plural of Mochuana, 
a single individual) is called Sichuana, an adjective imply- 
ing any thing belonging to the nation. It is exceedingly soft 
and mellifluous, owing to there being few syllables that end 
with a consonant. The only exceptions are " nouns in the 
ablative case, plural verbs, verbs definite, and the interroga- 
tives why, how, and what, all of which end with the ringing n." 

The first acquaintance of Europeans with the Bechuanas 
dates from an early period of the history of the Cape Colony. 
There is reason to believe that this nation once extended as 
far as the Orange River, but at the present day none of 
the tribes are found beyond the 28th parallel of south lati- 
tude. 

The Bechuanas (as already mentioned in the history of 
the Damaras) believe that they originally sprang from a cave, 
said to exist in the Bakone country, where the footmarks of 
the first man may still be seen in the rock. 

If we are to credit the testimony of some missionaries, the 
Bechuanas have no notion of a Superior Being. It is a 



440 



EELIGION. 



strong argument in favor of this hypothesis that no word in 
their language properly denotes Grod. Speaking of these 
people, Mr. Moffat says : "I have often w^ished to find some- 
thing by which I could lay hold on the minds of the natives ; 
an ' altar to the unknown God,' the faith of their ancestors, 
the immortality of the soul, or any religious association ; 
but nothing of this kind ever floated in their minds. ' They 
looked on the sun with the eyes of an ox.' To tell the great- 
est of them that there was a Creator, the Governor of the 
heavens and earth — of the fall of man, or the redemption of 
the world — the resurrection of the dead, and immortality be- 
yond the grave, was to tell them what appeared to be more 
fabulous, extravagant, and ludicrous than their own vain 
stories about lions, hyaenas, and jackals. To tell them that 
these (referring, of course, to the diiferent elements of our 
creed) were articles of our faith would extort an interjection 
of superlative surprise, as if they were too preposterous for 
the most foolish to believe." 

" 'What is the differenced said a native one day to the 
writer just quoted, pointing to his dog, ' between me and that 
animal 1 You say I am immortal, and why not my dog or 
my ox ? They die ; and do you see their souls ? What is 
the difference between man and beast? None, except that 
man is the greater rogue of the two !' 

" They could not see that there was any thing in our cus- 
toms more agreeable to flesh and blood than in their own, 
but would, at the same time, admit that we were a wiser 
and a superior race of beings to themselves. For this supe- 
riority, some of their wise heads would try to account ; but 
this they could only do on the ground of our own statement, 
that God made man. 

" A wily fellow, who was the oracle of. the village in which 
he dwelt, once remarked, after hearing me enlarge on the 
subject of creation, ' If you verily believe that one Being 
created all men, then, according to reason, you must also be- 



SUPERSTITION THE RAIN-MAKEE. 441 

lieve that, in making white people, he had improved on his 
work. He tried his hand on Bushmen first, and he did not 
like them, because they were so ugly, and their language 
like that of frogs. He then tried his hand on the Hottentots; 
but these did not please him either. He then exercised his 
power and skill, and made the Bechuanas, which was a great 
improvement; and at last he made the white people. There- 
fore,' exulting with an air of triumph at the discovery, ' the 
white people are so much wiser than we are in making walk- 
ing houses (wagons), teaching the oxen to draw them over 
hill and dale, and instructing them also to plow the gardens, 
instead of making their wives do it, like the Bechuanas.' " 

Dealers in the black art are numerous among the Bechua- 
nas, who place the most implicit confidence in the sayings 
and prescriptions of the wizards. This applies more especial- 
ly to those persons who devote themselves to the study of 
"rain-making." 

The rain-maker possesses an influence over the minds of 
the people superior even to that of their king, who is like- 
wise compelled to yield to the dictates of these " arch-offi- 
cials." They are, in general, men of natural talent and in- 
genuity. Indeed, it is probable that, in the full conscious- 
ness of their superiority, they are emboldened to lay the 
public mind prostrate before their mysteries. Being, more- 
over, usually foreigners, they take good care to magnify pro- 
digiously their feats abroad. Each tribe has one rain-maker, 
and sometimes more. The wizards are also doctors ; and, at 
times, they assume the office of sextons by superintending the 
disposal of the dead, it being generally believed that the 
ceremonies practiced by these impostors have some influence 
over the watery treasures floating in the skies. It not un- 
frequently happens that the rain-maker prohibits the usual 
form of interment, and perhaps orders the dead to be dragged 
to a distance to be devoured by beasts of prey. 

Mr. Moffat, in his "Missionary Labors and Scenes in 

T2 



442 THE KAIN-MAKER. 

Southern Africa," has given at some length a very striking 
account of one of these rain-makers, which amply illustrates 
the immense influence exercised by them over the ignorant 
and superstitious mind, as also the craft and ingenuity of the 
men themselves, in order to effect their purpose. It is in 
substance as follows : 

Having for a number of years experienced severe droughts, 
the Bechuanas at Kuruman held a council as to the best 
measures for removing the evil. After some debate, a reso- 
lution was passed to send for a rain-maker of great renown, 
then staying among the Bahurutsi, two hiindred miles N.E. 
of the station. Accordingly, commissioners were dispatched, 
with strict injunctions not to return without the man ; but 
it was with some misgivings as to the success of their mission 
that the men started. However, by large promises, they suc- 
ceeded beyond their most sanguine expectations. 

During the absence of the embassadors the heavens had 
been as brass, and scarcely a passing cloud obscured the sky, 
which blazed with the dazzling rays of a vertical sun. But, 
strange to relate, the very day that the approach of the rain- 
maker w^as announced, the clouds began to gather thickly, 
the lightning darted, and the thunder rolled in awful gran- 
deur, accompanied by a few drops of rain. The deluded 
multitude were wild with delight; they rent the sky with 
their acclamations of joy, and the earth rang with their ex- 
ulting and maddening shouts. Previously to entering the 
town, the rain-maker sent a peremptory order to all the in- 
habitants to wash their feet. Scarcely was the message de- 
livered before every soul, young and old, noble and ignoble, 
flew to the adjoining river to obey the command of the man 
who they imagined was now collecting in the heavens all 
his stores of rain. 

The impostor proclaimed aloud that this year the women 
must cultivate gardens on the hills and not in the valleys, 
for the latter would be deluged. The natives, in their enthu- 



« 



THE RAIN-MAKEK. 443 

siasm, saw already their corn-fields floating in the breeze, and 
their flocks and herds return lowing homeward by noonday 
from the abundance of pasture. He told them how, in his 
wrath, he had desolated the cities of the enemies of his peo- 
ple by stretching forth his hand and commanding the clouds 
to burst upon them ; how he had arrested the progress of a 
powerful army by causing a flood to descend, which formed 
a mighty river, and stayed their course. These, and many 
other pretended displays of his power, were received as sober 
truths, and the chief and the nobles gazed on him with silent 
amazement The report of his fame spread like wildfire, 
and the rulers of the neighboring tribes came to pay him 
homage. 

In order to carry on the fraud, he would, when clouds ap- 
peared, command the women neither to plant nor sow, leji.- 
the seeds should be washed away. He would also requir^ 
them to go to the fields, and gather certain roots and herbs, 
with which he might light what appeared to the natives 
mysterious fires. Elate with hope, they would go in crowds 
to the hills and valleys, collect herbs, return to the town with 
songs, and lay their gatherings at the magician's feet. With 
these he would sometimes proceed to certain hills, and raise 
smoke ; gladly would he have called up the wind also, if he 
could have done so, well knowing that the latter is fi:equent- 
ly the precursor of rain. He would select the time of new 
and full moon for his purpose, aware that at those seasons 
there was frequently a change in the atmosphere. But the 
rain-maker found the clouds in these parts rather harder to 
manage than those of the Bahurutsi country, whence he came. 

One day, as he was sound asleep, a shower fell, on which 
one of the principal men entered his house to congratulate 
him on the happy event; but, to his utter amazement, he 
found the magician totally insensible to what was transpir- 
ing. "Hela ka rare! (halloo, by my father!) I thought you 
were making rain," said the intruder. Arising from his 



444 THE RAIN-MAKER. 

slumber, and seeing his wife sitting on the floor, shaking a 
milk-sack in order to obtain a little butter to anoint her hair, 
the wily rain-maker adroitly replied, " Do you not see my wife 
churning rain as fast as she can "?" This ready answer gave 
entire satisfaction ; and it presently spread through the length 
and breadth of the town that the rain-maker had churned 
the shower out of a milk-sack. 

The moisture, however, caused by this shower soon dried 
up, and for many a long week afterward not a cloud ap- 
peared. The women had cultivated extensive fields, but the 
seed was lying in the soil as it had been thrown from the 
hand ; the cattle were dying from want of pasture, and hund- 
reds of emaciated men were seen going to the fields in quest 
of unwholesome roots and reptiles, while others were perish- 
ing with hunger. 

All these circumstances irritated the rain-maker very 
much, and he complained that secret rogues were disobey- 
ing his proclamations. When urged to make repeated trials, 
he would reply, " You only give me sheep and goats to kill, 
therefore I can only make goat-rain ; give me fat slaughter 
oxen, and I shall let you see ox-rain." 

One night a small cloud passed over, and a single flash of 
lightning, from which a heavy peal of thunder burst, struck 
a tree in the town. Next day the rain-maker and a number 
of people assembled to perform the usual ceremony on such 
an event. The stricken tree was ascended, and roots and 
ropes of grass were bound round different parts of the trunk. 
When these bandages were made, the conjuror deposited 
some of his nostrums, and got quantities of water handed up, 
which he poured with great solemnity on the wounded tree, 
while the assembled multitude shouted "Pula! pula!" The 
tree was now hewn down, dragged out of the town, and burn- 
ed to ashes. Soon after, the rain-maker got large bowls of 
water, with which was mingled an infusion of bulbs. All 
the men of the town were then made to pass before him, 






THE RAIN-MAKEK. 445 

when he sprinkled each person with a zebra's tail dipped in 
water. 

Finding that this did not produce the desired effect, the 
impostor had recourse to another stratagem. He well knew 
that baboons were not very easily caught among rocky glens 
and shelving precipices, and, therefore, in order to gain tirfle, 
he informed the men that, to make rain, he must have a bab- 
oon ; moreover, that not a hair on his body was to be want- 
ing ; in short, the animal should be free from blemish. After 
a long and severe pursuit, and with bodies much lacerated, a 
band of chosen runners succeeded in capturing a young bab- 
oon, which they brought back triumphantly and exultingly. 
On seeing the animal, the rogue put on a countenance ex- 
hibiting the most intense sorrow, exclaiming, "My heart is 
rent in pieces! I am dumb with grief!" Pointing, at the 
same time, to the ear of the baboon, that was slightly scratch- 
ed, and the tail, which had lost some hair, he added, "Did I 
not tell you I could not bring rain if there was one hair 
wanting ?" 

He had often said that, if they could procure him the heart 
of a lion, he would show them he could make rain so abund- 
ant that a man might think himself well off to be under shel- 
ter, as when it fell it might sweep whole towns away. He 
had discovered that the clouds required strong medicines, and 
that a lion's heart would do the business. To obtain this, 
the rain-maker well knew, was no joke. One day it was an- 
nounced that a lion had attacked one of the cattle outposts 
not far from the town, and a party set off for the twofold 
purpose of getting a key to the clouds and disposing of a 
dangerous enemy. The orders were imperative, whatever the 
consequences might be. Fortunately, the lion was shot dead 
by a man armed with a gun. Greatly elated by their suc- 
cess, they forthwith returned with their prize, singing the 
conqueror's song in full chorus. The rain-maker at once set 
about preparing his medicines, kindled his fires, and, stand- 



446 THE KAIN-MAKEK. 

ing on the top of a hill, he stretched forth his hands, beckon- 
ing to the clouds to draw near, occasionally shaking his 
spear, and threatening them with his ire should they disobej- 
his commands. The populace believed all this, and wondered 
the rain would not fall. 

Plaving discovered that a corpse which had been put into 
the ground some weeks before had not received enough wa- 
ter at its burial, and knowing the aversion of the Bechuanas 
to a dead body, he ordered the corpse to be taken up, washed, 
and re-interred. Contrary to his expectation, and horrible 
as the ceremony must have been, it was performed. Still 
the heavens remained inexorable. 

Having exhausted his skill and ingenuity, the impostor 
began to be sorely puzzled to find something on which to lay 
the blame- Like all of his profession, he was a subtle fel- 
low, in the habit of studying human nature, affable, acute, 
and exhibiting a dignity of mien, with an ample share of 
self-complacency, which he could not hide. Hitherto, he 
had studiously avoided giving the least offense to the mis- 
sionaries, who he found were men of peace, who would not 
quarrel. He frequently condescended to visit them, and in 
the course of conversation would often give a feeble assent to 
their opinion as to the sources of that element over which 
he pretended to have sovereign control. However, fifiding 
all his wiles unavailing to produce the desired result, and 
notwithstanding the many proofs of kindness he had received 
from the missionaries, he began to hint that the reverend 
gentlemen were the cause of the obstinacy of the clouds! 
One day it was discovered that the rain had been prevented 
by Mr. Moffat bringing a bag of salt vidth him from a jour- 
ney that he had undertaken to Griqua-town. But finding, 
on examination, that the reported salt was only white clay 
or chalk, the natives could not help laughing at their own 
credulity. 

From insinuations he proceeded to open accusations. Aft- 



I 



THE RAIN-MAKEE. 447 

er having kept himself secluded for a fortnight, he one day 
appeared in the public fold and proclaimed that he had at 
last discovered the cause of the drought. After keeping the 
audience in suspense for a short time, he suddenly broke forth, 
" Do you not see," he asked, " when clouds cover us, that 
Hamilton and Moffat loofewd at them? Their white faces 
scare them away, and you can not expect rain so long as 
they are in the country." This was a home stroke. The 
people became impatient, and poured forth their curses against 
the poor missionaries as the cause of all their sorrows. The 
bell, which was rung for public worship, they said, frightened 
the vapors ; the prayers even came in for a share . of the 
blame. "Don't you," said the chief one day rather fiercely 
to Mr. Moffat, "bow down in your houses, and pray and 
talk to something bad in the ground?" 

But to shorten a long story : after exposing the missiona- 
ries to much risk and danger by his insinuations and accusa- 
tions, the tables were turned in their favor. The rain-maker 
was now suspected ; his gross impositions were unveiled, and 
he was about to pay the penalty of death — the well-merited 
reward for his scandalous conduct — when Mr. Moffat gener- 
ously interfered, and, through his presence of mind and hu- 
manity, succeeded in saving the life of one who had so often 
threatened his own, and who would not have scrupled to 
take it, could he thereby have served his purpose. Death, 
however, soon overtook him, for he was eventually murdered 
among the Bauangketsi nation. 

Mr. Moffat concludes his remarks on the career of this 
notable rain-maker by the following observation : 

"It is a remarkable fact that a rain-maker never dies a 
natural death. I have known some, and heard of many, who 
had, by one means or other, fallen a prey to the fury of their 
disappointed employers; but, notwithstanding this, there 
was no want of successors. There is not one tribe whose 
people have not imbrued their hands in the blood of these 



448 POLYGAMY BURIAL. 

impostors, whom they first adore, then curse, and lastly de- 
stroy." 

Polygamy exists to an almost unlimited extent. A man 
may have as many wives as he chooses, provided he can pay 
for such privilege the usual fees, which vary according to 
the wealth of the husband. "* 

Like the Damaras, the Bechuanas practice circumcision. 
From an early age upward, even to manhood, the males are 
circumcised. Children, however, born of parents previously 
to their having been operated upon, can not inherit regal 
power. The ceremony being performed, the youth is anoint- 
ed, and at once assumes the character, air, and dress of a 
man. He is also considered fit to carry arms. 

The females have also their " religious" festival about the 
same age as the boys, and, for a certain period, are under 
the tuition of matrons, who indoctrinate them in all the 
duties of wives — passive obedience being especially inculca- 
ted. As a last ordeal, they are made to carry a piece of 
heated iron, in order to show that their hands are fit for 
labor. They are then lubricated with grease ; the lower part 
of their hair is shaven off, and the remainder profusely be- 
daubed with a paste of butter and sebilo (dark, shining ochre). 
They now adopt the usual female dress. " Raised thus from 
comparative infancy to what they consider womanhood, they 
view themselves with as much complacency as if they were 
enrobed in the attire of a daughter of an Eastern potentate. 
They have reached nearly to a climax in their life, for they 
expect soon to be married ; to be a mother they consider the 
chief end of a woman's existence." 

The Bechuanas generally bury their dead. The ceremony 
of interment, &c., varies in different localities, and is influ- 
enced by the rank of the deceased ; but the following is a 
fair specimen of the way in which these obsequies are man- 
aged. 

On the approaching dissolution of a man, a skin or net 



BURIAL OF THE DEAD. 449. 

is thrown over the body, which is held in a sitting posture, 
with the knees doubled up under the chin, until life is ex- 
tinct. A grave is then dug — very frequently in the cattle- 
fold — six feet in depth, and about three in width, the interior 
being rubbed over with a certain large bulb. The body, 
having the head covered, is then conveyed through a hole 
made for the purpose in the house and the surrounding fence, 
and deposited in the grave in a sitting position, care being 
taken to put the face of the corpse against the north. " Por- 
tions of an ant-hill are placed about the feet, when the ^et 
which held the body is gradually withdrawn. As the grave 
is filled up, the earth is handed in with bowls, while two 
men stand in the hole to tread it down round the body, great 
care being taken to pick out every thing like a root or peb- 
ble. When the earth reaches the height of the mouth, a 
small twig or branch of an acacia is thrown in, and on the 
top of the head a few roots of grass are placed. The grave 
being nearly filled, another root of grass is fixed immediately 
over the head, part of which stands above ground. When 
this portion of the ceremony is over, the men and women 
stoop, and with their hands scrape on to the little mound 
the loose soil lying about. A large bowl of water, with an 
infusion of bulbs, is now brought, when the men and women 
wash their hands and the upper part of their feet, shouting 
^Piila! pula!' (Eain! rain!) An old woman, probably 
a relative, will then bring the weapons of the deceased (bow, 
arrows, war-axe, and spears) ; also grain and garden-seeds of 
various kinds; and even the bone of an old pack-ox, with 
other things. They finally address the grave, saying, ' These 
are all your articles.' The things are then taken away, and 
bowls of water are poured on the grave, when all retire, the 
women wailing ' Yo ! yo ! yo !' with some doleful dirge, sor- 
rowing without hope." 

*' The ancients were of opinion that the face was always 
the index of the mind. Modern physiognomists have gone 



450 BECHUANA CHARACTER THIEVISH PROPENSITIES. 

a step farther, pretending that a fine form, perfect in all its 
parts, can not contain a crooked or an imperfect mind." 
Judging the mind of a Bechuana by such a rule, it would 
not be pronounced deficient in talent. Nor is it. But, 
though the Bechuanas are a very superior race of men, they 
frequently conceal cunning and duplicity under an open and 
dignified exterior. Any act, no matter how disgraceful, if 
attended with success, will make them perfectly happy. 
"The Bechuana character is frank and sociable, which, 
however, does not appear to rise from benevolence of dispo- 
sition, so much as from a degree of etiquette, and habits aris- 
ing from relationship and docility." Like most barbarians, 
their political wisdom consists in duplicity and petty cunning, 
and their ordinary wars are merely predatory incursions upon 
weaker neighbors for the purpose of carrying off cattle with 
as little exposure as possible of their own lives. 

They are exceedingly vindictive and revengeful ; but if the 
injured party be propitiated with gifts, and the enemy ac- 
knowledge the error of his doings, apparent cordiality and 
unanimity generally succeed to the most inveterate hatred. 

From the king to the slave, theft is a prevailing vice with 
the Bechuanas, and, fi^om what I have seen of them, I am 
confident that the wealthiest and the most exalted among 
them would not hesitate to steal the shirt ofi" one's back, 
could he effect it without being compromised. Their pilfer- 
ing habits know no bounds, and they carry on the game 
with much dexterity. When grouped about our camp-fires 
I have known them to abstract the tools with which we have 
been working; nay, indeed, the very knives and forks from 
our plates. Once they actually took the meat out of the 
pot as it was boiling on the fire, substituting a stone ! They 
will place their feet over any small article lying on the ground, 
burying it in the sand with their toes, and, if unable to carry- 
it away at the time, they return to fetch it at a more conven- 
ient period. 



THIEVISH PROPENSITIES. 451 

I have suffered cruelly from their thievish propensities. 
When at the Lake they deprived me of almost the whole of 
my wardrobe, besides numerous other articles. Not liking 
to make a disturbance, and knowing the uselessness of com- 
plaining, I bore my misfortunes for a time with patience ; but 
there is a limit to every thing. Finding, one morning, that 
a bag containing no less than forty pounds of shot (a most 
invaluable treasure to me) had disappeared in a mysterious 
manner, I could no longer restrain my rage. "VVe tracked 
the thief to the water, but here, of course, all our efforts to 
follow him farther were frustrated. I then proceeded direct 
to the chief, and represented to him, in the strongest colors, 
the abominable conduct of his people, who robbed me with 
impunity under his very eyes, adding that their behavior 
was the more flagitious, as I had loaded both him and his 
men with presents, and treated them with undeviating kind- 
ness. To my astonishment and disgust, he laughed outright 
in my face, and told me that he could not control his men in 
this respect. Indeed, his own relations would play him the 
same trick. 

" So much the more disgraceful to you," I remarked, add- 
ing that he might rest assured I would take good care to tell 
my countrymen of the villainous conduct of the people at 
Lake Ngami. 

"Well," he replied, " I really can not assist you in this 
matter, but will give you wholesome advice, and my author- 
ity for acting on it ; that is, to hang on the nearest tree the 
first man you catch stealing." 

He said this with so much coolness, indifference, and good- 
humor, that I could not, vexed as I was, refrain from smil- 
ing ; and, half reconciled, I turned away from him, exclaim- 
ing, "Well, Lecholetebe, you are an incurable rogue!" 

That the people really did purloin articles from their own 
chief I had an instance when at the Lake. Entering a trad- 
er's hut one day, I observed some beautiful hippopotamus teeth, 



452 DRESS EUROPEAN CUSTOMS RIDICULED. 

and on inquiring how he had become possessed of them, he 
replied, "Why, Lecholetebe has just asked the same ques- 
tion. They were stolen from the chief by his own uncle 
this very morning, who sold them to me as his individual 
property not above half an hour ago." 

The attire of the Bechuanas . is scanty enough. Those, 
however, who have had much intercourse with Europeans be- 
gin to adopt their mode of dress ; but the women, contrary 
to custom, are very tenacious of their peculiar toilet, appar- 
ently preferring the garb of mother Eve. The appearance 
of the ladies is masculine, and far from prepossessing. Their 
figures are usually short, stout, and clumsy, which is still 
farther increased by the vast numbers of beads worn by the 
more wealthy, which hang in cumbrous coils round the waist 
and neck. Their wrists, arms, and ankles, moreover, are 
encircled by rings of copper, iron, and brass, of various forms 
and sizes. They delight in finery, and besides the decora- 
tion of their own persons, they profusely ornament their skin, 
shirts, and cloaks, the whole being bedaubed with masses 
of fat and red ochre. " Their naturally woolly hair is twist- 
ed in small cords, and matted with the above substances 
into apparently metallic pendules, which, being of equal 
length, assume the appearance of a skull-cap or inverted bowl 
of steel." 

Notwithstanding the Bechuanas acknowledge us to be a 
superior race to themselves, they have no hesitation to pro- 
nounce many of our habits and customs both clumsy and 
troublesome. They laugh at us for putting our legs and 
arms into bags, and using buttons for the purpose of fasten- 
ing bandages round our bodies, instead of suspending them as 
ornaments from the neck or hair of the head. Once initiated 
in the use of these things, however, they are but too glad to 
benefit by them. To wash the body instead of lubricating 
it with grease and red ochre seems to them a disgusting cus- 
tom, and cleanliness about one's food, house, bedding, &c., 
often creates their mirth and ridicule. 



SNUFF-TAKING HANDKERCHIEFS. 453 

The Bechuanas are great snuff-takers, and they indulge in 
the luxury to excess. Sharing the contents of your snuff- 
box with a stranger is almost the greatest compliment that 
can be paid to him. Knowing their propensity in this re- 
spect, I brought with me a large supply, but, on my arrival 
at the Lake, was astonished to find that they scarcely deign- 
ed to look at it. I soon discovered the cause of their singu- 
lar abstinence, which arose simply from the article not being 
sufficiently pungent. Unless it forces tears into their eyes, 
they look upon snuff as worthless. 

The way in which the Bechuanas themselves manufacture 
snuff is singular enough. A piece of tobacco being present- 
ed to a man, two stones are forthwith procured, between 
which the weed is carefully ground, lind, when of sufficient 
fineness, a quantity of wood-ash is added, which, to their 
nostrils, constitutes the very perfection of snuff. When the 
amalgamation of the ingredients is perfected, every one pres- 
ent presses eagerly forward to have a pinch. Each fills the 
palm of his hand with the mixture, and scoops it into the 
nose with a peculiarly * shaped iron or ivory spoon, hung 
round the neck, drawing every grain leisurely up into the 
nostrils in such abundance as to force big tears into the eyes, 
thus proving the extent of the enjoyment. " Worse than 
barbarian would that man be esteemed who would wanton- 
ly interrupt a social party so employed." Their greasy fin- 
gers constitute their handkerchiefs on such occasions, and 
their faces, after one of these " snuff-floods," may not inaptly 
be likened to a dewy and furrowed field. Their snuff-boxes 
are either the kernel of the palm-fruit, hollowed out, or a 
diminutive gourd, and, like the ladles, are suspended round 
the neck, though sometimes they are secured to the arm 
above the elbow. 

The Bechuanas smoke, but it can hardly be said to be a 
fashionable vice among them. This is, at least, as regards 
the men, for the women, on the contrary, are inveterate 



454 SMOKING OCCUPATIONS. 

smokers, a habit (as already mentioned when speaking of the 
Hill-Damaras) often productive of serious bodily disorders. 

The occupations of the men consist chiefly in going to war, 
hunting, preparing fur and skins for carosses, milking the 
cows, &c., while those of the women are by far the heaviest 
— ^namely, the erection of houses, collecting and bringing 
fuel, tilling, sowing, reaping,- thrashing and grinding the 
corn, not to mention the heavy task of rearing a family. 
While cultivating the ground, I have often seen a woman 
with one or two babies fastened to her back under a scorch- 
ing sun. Yet, notwithstanding all these exhausting and gall- 
ing duties, they would be amazed were a person to tell them 
that a state of "single blessedness" would be preferable to 
that of being the drudge of a haughty and indolent husband. 

" While standing near the wife of one of the grandees," 
writes Mr. Moffat, " who, with some female companions, was 
building a house, and making preparations to scramble, by 
means of a branch, on to the roof, I remarked that they 
ought to get their husbands to do that part of the work. 
This set them all into a roar of laughter. Mahuto, the 
queen, and several of the men drawing near to ascertain the 
cause of the merriment, the wives repeated my — to them — 
strange and ludicrous proposal, when another peal of mirth 
ensued. Mahuto, who was a sensible and shrewd woman, 
stated that the plan, though hopeless, was a good one, as she 
often thought our custom was much better than theirs. It 
was reasonable that woman should attend to household af- 
fairs and the lighter parts of labor, while man, wont to boast 
of his superior strength, should employ his energy in more 
laborious occupations ; adding, she wished I would give their 
husbands medicine to make them do the work." 

The Bechuanas who inhabit the shores of the Ngami are 
rich in sheep and goats, but possess comparatively few horn- 
ed cattle. Like other tribes of that nation, they are excess- 
ively fond of their oxen, but more particularly prize their 



• 



AGRICULTURE COMMERCE HUNTING FISHING. 455 

COWS, which scarcely any thing can induce them to part 
with. Indeed, they will readily give ivory, when plentiful, 
in exchange for cows. 

Gardening and agriculture are much practiced by the Be- 
chuanas. These occupations are conducted in nearly a sim- 
ilar manner as that described among the Ovambo. The veg- 
etables and the grain are also very much the same. 

The only marketable articles as yet ascertained at the 
Lake are ostrich feathers, furs and skins of various sorts, 
rhinoceros horns, and ivory (elephant and hippopotamus). 
The staple articles of exchange are beads, and more especial- 
ly ammunition. Clothing is as yet but very little in de- 
mand, the people not being sufficiently advanced in civiliza- 
tion to care for such a luxury. Even beads are not sought 
after with the avidity they used to be, such quantities hav- 
ing of late been exported to the Lake country that (to use 
a vulgar, but very emphatic expression of Lecholete'be) " the 
women," who chiefly wear beads, "grunt under their bur- 
dens like pigs." No visitor, however, should be entirely 
without them. All large beads are useless. Small beads of 
the following colors, pink, dull white, light green, brick-col- 
ored, light blue, dark blue, and yellow, are chiefly in demand. 

The Bechuanas of the Lake are fond of the chase, and al- 
most daily parties are sent out to provide for the chiefs ta- 
ble. But, though possessed of a great number of fire-arms, 
few of the men have as yet attained any proficiency in their 
use. By far the greater portion of animals slain are obtain- 
ed by means of pitfalls dug by the Bushmen and the Bayeye 
along the banks of the rivers. As many as thirty to forty 
pitfalls may be seen extending in one continuous line. 

Though the finny tribe is pretty numerous in the Lake 
and its rivers, none of the Bechunas take the trouble to catch 
them. The conquered race, the Bayeye, however, are very 
expert and industrious fishermen. 



456 DEPAKTUKE FOR LIBEB^ 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Departure for Libebe. — The Canoe. — The Lake. — Eeach the Teoge. 
— Adventure with a Leche. — Luxurious Vegetation. — Exuberance 
of animal Life. — Buifaloes. — The Koodoo. — His Haunts. — Pace. 
— Food. — Flesh. — Hide. — ^Disposition. — Gregarious Habits. — The 
Chase. 

As Lecholetebe proved true to his word with regard to 
providing me with men and boats, I was able, after only a 
few days' stay at the Lake, to proceed on my exploring tour 
to the north. To the last moment, however, the chief and 
his people endeavored to dissuade me from the attempt, urg- 
ing, among other reasons, the enormous windings of the 
Teoge, which would prevent me from reaching my destina- 
tion for many months, as, also, the great number of hippo- 
potami, which they represented as the most savage and vora- 
cious of beasts. 

I did not give much credit to the story of these men, not 
having the least faith in their word. I told them that, with 
regard to the sinuosities of the stream, I hoped to overcome 
that difficulty by patience ; and as to the sea-cows, if they 
really were such monsters as described, I assured them I was 
quite confident that my black followers (pointing to the boat- 
men), to whom they were accustomed, would be first swal- 
lowed, which would give me time to escape. With this rude 
joke, which highly pleased my untutored audience, I stepped 
into the canoe, and waving my hand, in token of leave, to 
my men and the chief, I launched forth on the Zouga. 

The canoe in which I embarked (and they are all some- 
what similarly constructed) was but a miserable craft. It 
consisted of the trunk of a tree, about twenty feet long, point- 
ed at both ends, and hollowed out by means of fire and a 



THE CANOE A LOST PAETY A LUXURY. 457 

small hatchet. The natives are not at all particular as to 
the shape of the canoe. The after-part of some that have 
come under my notice v^^ould form an angle of near forty- 
five degrees w^ith the stem! Nevertheless, they were pro- 
pelled through the water by the Bayeye (my boatmen were 
of that nation) with considerable speed and skill. 

The " appointments" of the canoe consist of a paddle, and 
a pole ten to twelve feet in length. The paddle-man sits 
well in the stern, and attends mostly to the steering ; while 
his comrade, posted at the head of the canoe, sends her along, 
by means of the pole, with great force and skill. 

The natives, however, rarely venture any distance from 
the shore in their frail skiffs. It was said that they had 
made several attempts to cross the widest part of the Lake, 
but had never succeeded. A party, consisting of ten or 
twelve canoes, hazarded the experiment a few years previous 
to its discovery by Europeans, but were not again heard of, 
from which it was concluded that they had been overtaken 
by a storm and perished. After about an hour's paddling, 
the broad expanse of the Lake lay before me, glittering in all 
the beauty and softness produced by reflection of the warm 
rays of a tropical sun. It was, indeed, a luxury, after so 
much traveling in the burning desert, to be able at last to 
float upon 

" The glassy, cool, translucent wave," 

and the pleasure was increased by my partiality to water, 
an element with which I became familiar in the early stages 
of boyhood, and on which I have spent some of my happiest 
days. 

As I felt the cool breeze fanning my cheeks, new life seem- 
ed to stir within me, and my heart beat high with joyous 
excitement. 

Our party, at starting, consisted of only three or four ca- 
noes ; but, as we proceeded on the voyage, the number in- 
creased, and ultimately amounted to about a dozen. 



458 KEACH THE TEOGE AN ADVENTURE. 

In consequence of the frail structure of our craft, and the 
boatmen's tenacity in keeping near the shore, we were two 
days in getting from the Zouga to the western extremity of 
the Lake, although, in reality, it is only one good day's voy- 
age. It was not, therefore, until the third day that we 
reached the chief entrance of the mouth of the Teoge (for 
here the river spreads out into several branches), where there 
is a bar. The water was so low on it that although the 
stream was fast rising at the time (August), we were forced 
to draw the canoes across it by main force. It is true we 
might have avoided the inconvenience by proceeding a mile 
or two to the westward, where a channel exists that is said 
to be navigable at all seasons. 

Our voyage across the Lake was attended with no incident 
worth recording, but, on reaching the point just mentioned, 
I had a little adventure with a leche, hundreds of which 
might be seen grazing and sporting among the shallows and 
the numerous little islets of the Teoge. 

I had gone in advance of my party in the hope of obtain- 
ing a shot ; but though I met with vast numbers of animals, 
the openness of the ground prevented me from getting with- 
in range. Being quite tired by my severe but fruitless ex- 
ertions, I was resting on the rifle, contemplating the novel 
and striking scene — the Lake, with its broad blue waters — its 
finely-wooded shores — the varied and vast herds of animals — 
the Teoge, with its numerous little channels and sedgy shores 
— when I saw, a little ahead of me, two magnificent stag 
leches approaching each other, evidently with no friendly in- 
tentions. I was right in my conjecture, for in a few sec- 
onds afterward they were engaged in combat. Taking ad- 
vantage of this lucky incident, I approached, unperceived, 
within a dozen paces, when I quickly dropped on one knee 
and took a deliberate aim at the shoulder of the nearest; 
but, just as I pulled the trigger, he received a violent thrust 
from his antagonist, which made him swerve to one side, and 



ADVENTURE WITH A LECHE. 459 

the consequence was that the ball, instead of piercing his 
heart, merely smashed one of his hind legs. The animals, 
nevertheless, were so intently engaged, that, notwithstanding 
the report of the gun, and the wounded state of one of them 
(he probably attributed this to his adversary), they did not 
observe me. Throwing aside the rifle, I drew my hunting- 
knife, and thus armed, rushed upon the combatants. Just, 
however, as I was about to bury the fatal weapon in the 
flank of one of the animals, they both suddenly became aware 
of me, and fled precipitately. The wounded beast at once 
made for the river, which was hard by, and though it was 
running very swiftly at this point, perhaps not less than four 
or five miles an hour, he plunged into the water. 

Not being then aware of the aquatic habits of this species 
of antelope, I was very much astonished, and for a while 
thought the beast would surely be carried aWay by the vio- 
lence of the current and drowned. But I was soon unde- 
ceived ; for he struck bravely out for the opposite shore, his 
course being marked with streaks of crimson. On gaining 
the bank, he gave one glance behind him, shook his bloody 
and drizzling coat, and made off. I was determined, how- 
ever, not to be beaten ; and, as I had nothing on but a pair 
of trowsers and a flannel shirt, I threw myself, as I was, into 
the stream, and soon succeeded in reaching the opposite bank, 
when I at once started in pursuit. 

In this way, swimming and wading alternately, several 
rivulets, swamps, and dikes were crossed and recrossed ; but, 
for a long time, the result was doubtful. At last, however, 
the poor animal slackened his pace, staggered, and lay down, 
but again proceeded, though apparently with pain and diffi- 
culty. Seeing this, I redoubled my exertions, and having 
succeeded in turning him toward the Lake, I drove him right 
into the water, which was here shallow, and where he sev- 
eral times stuck fast in the mud. I now felt sure of my 
quarry ; and, having approached sufficiently near, I seized 



460 ASPECT OP THE COUNTRY. 

him by the wounded leg, and severed the tendon at the knee- 
joint. The struggle between us now became severe. On 
trying to lay hold of his horns, which were most formidable 
weapons, with the intention of cutting his throat, he struck 
out with so much violence as to upset me, and I was nearly 
smothered with mud and water. But the poor creature's 
course was run. His loss of blood and crippled state soon 
enabled me to put an end to his miseries. He was a noble 
old stag — the finest antelope of the species that I ever shot, 
and they were many ; he well rewarded me for all my exer- 
tions. 

After passing the bar at the mouth of the Teoge, the depth 
of the water increased, and the current flowed with less ve- 
locity — ^from two to three miles per hour, I should say. For 
the first few days' journey the country presented a rather 
dreary and monotonous appearance, being frequently flooded 
for many miles, thus converting the land on both sides into 
extensive reedy marshes, only occasionally relieved by a 
pleasant group of the date and the fan-palm. The banks 
were in many places so low that, when bivouacking on shore, 
we often slept in the water. Even where the banks rose a 
few feet above the surface, they were entirely undermined by 
the stream ; and if a stick was thrust through, water imme- 
diately appeared in the hole. Fuel was exceedingly scarce, 
and could only be purchased from the natives (thinly scatter- 
ed along its banks), who not unfrequently brought it from a 
very great distance. 

On the fourth day the landscape assumed a more pleas- 
ing aspect ; the banks of the river became higher, and were 
richly covered with a rank vegetation. There was the fan- 
palm, the date, the black-stemmed mimosa, the wild and 
wide-spreading sycamore, the elegant and dark-foliaged mo- 
shoma, and a variety of other beautiful, often to me new, 
trees, many yielding an abundance of palatable and nourish- 
ing fruit. Timbo, who accompanied me, recognized no less 



m 



VEGETATION ANIMAL LIFE. 



461 




ASCENDING THE TEOGE. 



than six or seven kinds of fruit-trees indigenous to the east 
coast of Africa and the adjacent countries. The arboreal 
scenery, indeed, in some places exceeded in beauty any thing 
that I had ever seen. I could have spent days under the 
shade of some of these ornamental trees, resounding at times 
with the wild notes of birds, while in the distance might be 
seen herds of the finest of the antelope tribe. Yet common 
prudence forbids the traveler to tarry. When the stream, 
after the annual overflow, begins to subside, noxious effluvia 
are emitted, carrying death along with them. Such is the 
climate of Africa ! 

Animal life was almost on a par with the exuberant 
vegetation. Rhinoceroses, hippopotami, buffaloes, sassabys, 
hartebeests, pallahs, reed-bucks, leche's, &c., were constantly 
seen, and every day some game animal or other was shot. 
Thus I was able to support and satisfy our large and hungry 
party, now consisting of fifty or sixty individuals. 

One fine afternoon we came to a place where the tracks 



462 



A FAILURE ^BUFFALOES FOUND. 



of buffaloes were unusually numerous ; and, having hitherto 
seen little of that animal, I determined to halt for a day or 
two, in the hope not only of becoming better acquainted with 
it, but of having good sport. The surrounding scenery, be- 
sides, was attractive, which was an additional inducement to 
devote a short time to rest and amusement. 

The first night that I passed at a " skarm" was a failure 
in respect of game, owing probably to my being to windward 
of the point whence the buffaloes were likely to come, who, 
getting scent of me from a distance, did not venture to ap- 
proach my place of concealment. A small herd of these an- 
imals, however, came within range of Timbo, whom I had 
also placed in ambush some little way from me; but, as 
usual, he missed, and they all went off unhurt. 

Returning to the camp the following morning, the natives, 
on hearing of our ill luck, looked so hungry and unhappy 
withal, that, although I stood greatly in need of rest and re- 
freshment, I again shouldered my rifle and started off in 
search of game. 

On this occasion I was accompanied by about a score of 
natives. A couple of pallahs and a koodoo were soon bagged, 
but a. noble sassaby that we met with got off unscathed. 

Afterward we searched long without finding any thing, 
but the numerous tracks of buffaloes testified that this part 
of the country was a favorite haunt of those animals. At 
last we came to the skirts of a dense thicket ; and, peering 
among the bushes, I presently espied several dark objects 
on the ground, which at once struck me must be buffaloes. 
Placing my finger on my lips as a sign that silence was re- 
quired, and pointing in the direction of the dark objects, I 
whispered the word "onja," meaning buffalo. Not the pres- 
ence of his Satanic majesty could have caused greater con- 
sternation among my followers ; for no sooner was the magic 
word uttered, than one and all of them wheeled about, and 
made a headlong retreat. One of the men was carrying a 



A PANIC — -m DOUBT — A BUFFALO KILLED. 463 

heavy rifle of mine, and wishing to get possession of it, I fol- 
lowed in their footsteps. But this made bad worse ; for, see- 
ing me also running, and thinking the enemy was at their 
heels, they redoubled their pace, nor did they stop until at 
a most respectful distance from the thicket. It was really 
absurd to see us thus endeavoring to outrun each other. 

Having at length overtaken the men and secured my 
rifle, I returned to the spot whence I had first observed the 
suspicious objects ; but, though I approached to within a 
dozen paces of them, I was unable, from the denseness of 
the cover, to make out their identity. 

A tree was hard by ; and, in the hope of obtaining a 
better view, I at once ascended it. But in this matter I was 
disappointed, for even when thus elevated I could see no 
better than from the ground. As the only mode left me of 
satisfying my doubts, I now fired into the midst of the dark 
objects in question ; but not a living thing stirred. For a 
moment I fancied I must have been in error, and that what 
I had taken for animals were neither more nor less than 
huge stones. However, to set the point at rest, after reload- 
ing, I sent a second ball in the same direction as the first, 
and this time to some purpose, for at the report of the gun 
up sprung to their feet four magnificent male buffaloes ; and 
after tossing their heads proudly, and sniffing the air for a 
moment, they broke cover in good style, and, to all appear- 
ance, unhurt. I never saw them again. 

Following leisurely on their tracks in order to ascertain 
whether any of the beasts were hurt, a herd of buffaloes — at 
least two hundred in number — suddenly rushed past us with 
the violence of a tornado, breaking down and crashing every 
thing that opposed their headlong career, and raising so 
great a cloud of dust as nearly to conceal their dark forms 
from view. I fired into the midst of them at random, and 
had the satisfaction to see a cow drop to the shot. 

The report of the rifle brought the whole herd almost im- 



464 BUFFALOES PROOF AGAINST BULLETS. 

mediately to a stand, and, facing round, they confronted us 
in one dark mass. Taking advantage of a tree at some little 
distance ahead, I stalked to within about one hundred and 
fifty paces of this formidable phalanx. Resting the gun on 
a branch, I took a steady aim at the leading bull ; but, 
though I very distinctly heard the bullet strike him, he did 
not flinch in the slightest degree. 

One of the natives having by this time mustered courage 
to steal up to me with my rifle, I fired a second time, though 
at an8ther of the herd, but with no better result. Six sev- 
eral times, at the least, did I repeat the dose, and though on 
each occasion the ball told loudly on the animal's body, 
neither it nor any one of the herd (strange as it may appear) 
budged an inch ! They seemed to be chained to the spot by 
some invisible power, eyeing me all the while with an omin- 
ous and sinister look. Their strange and unaccountable bear- 
ing puzzled me beyond measure. I expected every instant 
to see them charge down upon me. But, even had this hap- 
pened — ^though I am free to confess I felt any thing but com- 
fortable — my personal safety would not, perhaps, have been 
much endangered, as by ascending the tree against which I 
was leaning I should have been out of harm's way. How- 
ever, I was not driven to this extremity ; for, while about to 
ram down another ball, the whole herd suddenly wheeled 
about, and, with a peculiar shrieking noise, tails switching to 
and fro over their backs, and heads lowered almost to the 
ground, they made off" at a furious pace. 

On proceeding to the spot where the buffaloes had been 
standing, I observed large patches of blood on the ground, 
and felt convinced that both the animals at which I had fired 
must have been severely, if not mortally wounded. We fol- 
lowed their tracks for a considerable distance, but saw no 
more of them. From information received from the Bush- 
men at a subsequent period, however, there is little doubt that 
both perished. 



ANOTHER BUFFALO KILLED KOODOOS. 465 

The night closing in, I determined on once more lying in 
ambush. I waited long in vain ; but at last I observed a sol- 
itary buffalo — an immense bull — slowly and cautiously ap- 
proaching my hiding-place, stopping every now and then to 
listen. When so near the " skarm" as almost to touch it, I 
pulled the trigger, but, to my great annoyance, the gun snap- 
ped. On hearing the click, the animal wheeled about and 
Iiurriedly retreated ; but, after proceeding about forty paces, 
he suddenly halted, and, turning partially round, exposed his 
broadside. Having, in the interim, put on another cap, I took 
advantage of his favorable position, and again pulled the trig- 
ger. This time I succeeded in placing a bullet well in the 
beast's shoulder. The instant he received the shot he leaped 
high into the air, and then plunged violently forward. Im- 
mediately afterward I heard a deep moaning in the direction 
he had taken — an unmistakable sign that he was mortally 
hurt. Nevertheless, what with the severe lesson I had re- 
cently received from the black rhinoceros, and the well-known 
savage nature of a wounded buffalo, I did not think it pru- 
dent to follow him. The next morning, however, search was 
made, when he was found dead within less than a hundred 
yards of my " skarm," the ball having pierced his heart. 

Koodoos were also occasionally seen and killed. Of all 
that varied and beauteous form of animal life to be found in 
the boundless woods and plains of tropical South Africa, the 
koodoo is unquestionably the most distinguished for elegance 
and gracefulness, united with strength. The height of the 
male at the shoulder is about four feet. The general color 
of his body is a " rufous gray," marked with several white bars 
over the back and croup. The male carries his exquisitely 
formed head, ornamented with ponderous spiral horns of about 
three feet or more in length, very erect, which gives him an 
air of nobility and independence. The koodoo, in short, is a 
perfect picture ; and " when standing broadside on, is decided- 
ly one of the grandest-looking antelopes in the world." 

U2 



4:66 GAIT FOOD BREEDING HIDE. 

The koodoo is not uncommon throughout the more wooded 
districts of Damara-land ; but, from its leading a very seclu- 
ded life, it is not so often seen as others of the antelope tribe. 
His favorite haunts are the stonj slopes of hills, overgrown 
with brushwood. In localities not much frequented by man, 
however, and in the early part of the day, he may be seen in 
more open ground, on the outskirts of woods, borders of vleys, 
and banks of rivers. 

His gait is very gi'aceful ; but his pace, which consists of 
a moderately fast gallop, is less elegant. When pursued, he 
clears with considerable agility bushes, stones, and other 
minor obstructions that may oppose his course, his leaps be- 
ing often of very considerable extent. 

His food consists chiefly of leaves, buds, and the young 
shoots of trees and bushes. He seems capable of going a long 
time without water, and only occasionally frequents the pool. 

The koodoo produces only one young at a time. His 
flesh, when in good condition, is excellent, and the soup, or 
bouillon, made from it is delicious. The marrow extracted 
from the bones is highly prized by the natives, who deem it 
better than that obtained from any other animal. They con- 
sequently devour it greedily, and without any kind of prepa- 
ration. 

The hide of the koodoo is greatly valued, as well by the 
hunter as the colonist. It is rather thin, but exceedingly 
tough and pliable, and will stand more wear and tear than 
any other hide of the same substance. It is chiefly used for 
shoes, lashes of whips, thongs, straps, and harness in general. 
A koodoo hide, well prepared according to the custom of the 
country, is worth from twenty to thirty shillings ; and, being 
much in request among the farmers, is no despicable article 
of commerce for home consumption. 

The koodoo is naturally of a shy and timid nature ; but 
the male, when hotly pressed and wounded, will not unfre- 
quently face about, and even attack his pursuer. 



HABITS — ^MODES OF HUNTING. 467 

This species of antelope is gregarious, though seldom seen 
in large herds, five or six being the usual number. The 
males are frequently met with singly. 

As already seen, when taken young, this animal is easily 
domesticated, and becomes very tame. Notwithstanding, to 
the best of my belief, no specimen has ever been brought to 
this country alive. 

From the koodoo's secluded habits, fewer of these animals 
are killed — as regards Damara-land, at least — than any oth- 
er species of antelope indigenous to Southern Africa. He is 
sometimes hunted on horseback, and if a hunter has the good 
fortune to meet with one in a favorable and open locality, 
there is no great difficulty in running it down ; but as the 
animal holds, for the most part, to hilly and stony ground, 
and such as is wooded withal, the chase, even if successful, 
usually proves an arduous one. 

The preferable course is to hunt it on foot. Stalking the 
koodoo was a favorite pursuit of mine, and many a noble 
stag have I thus laid low. But, on account of the wooded 
nature of the country it inhabits, the difficulty of approach- 
ing unperceived within gunshot is very considerable, and it 
is greatly increased by Nature, who, with her usual wonder- 
ful provision, has provided the koodoo with the most exqui- 
site sense of hearing. Its large, prominent ears apparently 
act as a kind of focus, against which any unusual noise or 
sound is quickly arrested in its progress. 

The Bushmen have a way of their own of hunting the 
koodoo, viz., by running it down, not by speed of foot, but by 
gradually exhausting it. When a hunt of this kind is de- 
cided on, a number of these people assemble, armed with as- 
segais, &c. Having started the animal, one of the party 
takes up its ^' spoor" at a quick pace, the rest following more 
leisurely. On feeling fatigued, the leading man drops behind 
his comrades, and the next in order takes up the pursuit, and 
so on, until they secure the prize. Sometimes this is effected 



468 



THE HUNT THE TSETSE. 



in the course of a few hours ; but it happens, also, that the 
chase lasts for a whole day, or even longer. All depends on 
the ground. If stony or rocky, the men have an immense 
advantage over the animal, who, under such circumstances, 
soon becomes foot-sore, lies down repeatedly, and, after a 
while, is found unable to rise, when he is quickly dispatched. 
The women and children carry water on these occasions for 
the hunters, so that, should the animal prove very enduring, 
his pursuers may not be necessitated to give up the chase for 
want of that indispensable necessary. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

tsetse Fly. — Confined to particular Spots. — Its Size. — Its Destructive- 
ness. — Fatal to Domestic Animals. — Symptoms in the Ox when 
bitten by the Tsetse. 

During my hunting excursions along the Teoge, I en- 
countered, for the first time, that most extraordinary of in- 
sects, the tsetse {glossina morsitans, Westw.).* Among the sev- 
eral scourges to which 
the traveler is subject- 
ed in the South Afri- 
can wilderness, one of 
the greatest is this in- 
sect ; not, it is true, as 
to the wayfarer's own 
person, for he himself 
escapes very nearly un- 
scathed, but as regards 
the horses and cattle. 
The tsetse is found 
chiefly in the bush or among the reeds, but rarely in the 

* For a scientific description of this insect, see " Proceedings of the 
Zoological Society," No. ccxvii. 




TSETSE FLT. 



LOCALITY SIZE DESTRUCTIVENESS. 469 

open country. It is confined to particular spots, and is nev- 
er known to shift its haunts. Thus cattle may be seen graz- 
ing securely on one side of a river, while the opposite bank 
swarms with the insect. Should the natives, who are well 
acquainted with localities frequented by the fly, have occa- 
sion to change their cattle-posts, and are obliged to pass 
through tracts of country where it exists, they choose, I am 
told, a moonlight winter's night, as, during the hours of rest 
in the cold season, it does not bite. 

In size the tsetse is somewhat less than the common blue 
fly that settles on meat, but its wings are longer. Yet, though 
so small and insignificant in appearance, its bite carries with 
it a poison equal to that of the most deadly reptile. Many 
is the traveler who, from his draft-oxen and horses having 
been destroyed by this pestiferous insect, has not only had 
the object of his journey completely marred, but his personal 
safety endangered by the loss of his means of conveyance. 

Very lately, indeed, a party of Griquas, about twenty in 
number, who were elephant-hunting to the northwest of the 
Ngami, and who were provided with three wagons and a 
large number of trek, or draft-oxen, lost, prior to their re- 
turn to the Lake, all their cattle by the bite of the tsetse. 
Some horses, brought with them to further their sport, shared 
a similar fate. 

The very same year that this disaster happened to the 
Griquas, a party of Englishmen, among whom was my friend 
Mr. Frederick Green, attempted to reach Libebe ; but they 
had only proceeded seven or eight days' journey to the north 
of the Ngami when both horses and cattle were bitten by the 
fly in question, and the party were, in consequence, compelled 
to make a hasty retreat. One of the number, I am told, was 
thus deprived of as many as thirty-six horses, excellent hunt- 
ers, and all sustained heavy losses in cattle. 

There are large tribes which can not keep either cattle or 
sheep because the tsetse abounds in their country. But it is 



470 A PROBLEM SYMPTOMS. 

onlj fatal to domestic animals, as wild animals feed undis- 
turbed in parts infested by the insect. Yet many of them, 
such as oxen and buffaloes, horses and zebras, dogs and jack- 
als, &c., possess somewhat the same nature. Moreover, it 
bites man, and no danger follows. The sensation experi- 
enced has not inaptly been likened to the sting of a flea.* 
The problem to be solved is, what quality exists in domesti- 
cation which renders domestic animals obnoxious to this poi- 
son? "Is man not as much a domestic animal as a dog? 
Is it the tsetse at all which kills the animal ?" 

Captain Vardon, of the Indian army, one of the earlier pi- 
oneers of the more interior parts of Southern Africa, was 
among the first to decide the point ; for he rode his horse up 
a hill infested by tsetse, and in twenty days his doubts were 
removed by the death of his horse. 

According to the statement of the celebrated explorers, 
Messrs. Oswell and Livingstone, who were severe suflferers by 
the tsetse, the following symptoms are observed in the ox 
when bitten : the eye runs, the glands under the throat swell, 
the coat loses its gloss, there is a peculiar flaccidity of the 
muscles generally, and emaciation commences, which pro- 
ceeds unchecked until — perhaps months after the bite — purg- 
ing supervenes, and the animal perishes of exhaustion. Some 
die soon after the bite is inflicted, especially if they are in 
good condition, or should rain fall ; but, in general, the pro- 
cess of emaciation goes on for many weeks. In some cases 
the animals become blind before they die.f 

* When allowed to settle on the hand of man, all it is observed to 
do is to insert its proboscis a little farther than seems necessary to 
draw blood. It then partially withdraws the dart, which assumes a 
crimson hue. The mandibles now appear to be agitated ; the shrunk- 
en body swells ; and, in a few seconds, the insect becomes quite full, 
and quietly abandons its prey. 

f "One of my steeds," says Gordon Gumming, "died of the tsetse. 
The head and body of the poor animal swelled up in a most distress- 
ing manner before he died; his eyes were so swollen that he could 



SYMPTOMS IN THE OX WHEN BITTEN. 471 

" From what I have seen of the tsetse," writes Mr. Oswell 
to me, " I believe that three or four flies are sufficient to kill 
a full-grown ox. We examined about twenty of ours that 
were bitten and died, and the appearances were similar in all. 
On raising the skin, we perceived a glairy appearance of the 
muscles and flesh, which were much wasted. The stomach 
and intestines were healthy; heart, lungs, and liver, some- 
times all, but invariably one or the other, much diseased. 
The heart, in particular, attracted our attention. It was no 
longer a firm and muscular organ, but collapsed readily on 
compression, and had the appearance of flesh that had been 
steeped in water. The blood of the whole carcass was greatly 
diminished in quantity. Not more than twenty pints (a 
small pailful) were obtained from the largest ox, and this 
thick and albuminous ; the hands, when plunged into it, came 
out free of stain. The poison would seem to grow in the 
blood, and, through the blood, affect the vital organs. 

" A curious feature in the case is, that dogs, though 
reared on milk, die if bitten,* while calves and other young 
sucking animals are safe as long as they suck. Man, and all 
the wild animals, escape with impunity. Can the poison be 
alkaline, and neutralized by the acid f 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 



The Crocodile. — An Englishman killed by one of these Monsters. — 
The Omoroanga Yavarra River. — Hardships. — Beautiful Scenery. 
— Lecholetebe's Treachery. — The Eeed-ferry. 

As we journeyed up the Teoge, we frequently observed 
crocodiles basking in the sun in the more secluded parts of 
the river. One day, while trying to trace a wounded ante- 
not see; and, in darkness, he neighed for his comrades who stood 
feeding beside him." 

* A dog reared on the meat of game may be hunted in tsetse dis- 
tricts in safety I 



472 AN ENGLISHMAN KILLED BY A CKOCODILE. 

lope, I nearly trod on one of these monsters who was fast 
asleep. My foot was already descending on his tail before I 
was aware of him. Without daring to move, I gently raised 
the rifle to my shoulder, and, with a well-directed ball behind 
the ear, killed him on the spot. 

One does not often hear of crocodiles in these parts seizing 
on human beings when immersed in water, which would seem 
to prove that these animals are "man-eaters" from the com- 
pulsion of hunger rather than from habit. Indeed, I have 
been assured by several persons that there is little danger of 
being attacked, provided one makes a great noise previously 
to entering the water. Accidents, however, do occur. Only 
a few years ago an English gentleman, Mr. R , was car- 
ried off by one of these horrid creatures. He and his com- 
panion, li^Ir. M , who told me the sad story, had en- 
camped on the banks of the Zouga, and, as a number of 
water-fowl were seen disporting themselves on the stream, Mr. 

R proceeded there in the hope of obtaining a shot. He 

soon succeeded in killing several, and among the rest a Mus- 
covy duck ; but he was unable to secure it for want of a boat. 

While looking about for a canoe, he observed a fine ante- 
lope approaching ; and, running quickly toward the wagon, 
which was hard by, he called out to his men to bring him a 
rifle. On his return to the river, he found that the antelope 
had escaped. He then proceeded toward the spot whence 
he had shot at the duck, which was still floating on the sur- 
face. His companion having by this time joined him, he ex- 
pressed his determination to possess the bird at any cost, and 
that he would swim after it. He confessed, however, that 
he felt some doubt about the safety of such a proceeding, 
adding that he had once been witness to the death of a man 
who was seized and destroyed by a shark alongside his own 
boat. Notwithstanding this (his own) opinion of the risk he 
was about to incur, and the warning of his friend, he un- 
dressed and plunged into the stream. Plaving swum a little 



THE OMOKOANGA VAVARRA HARDSHIPS. 473 

distance, he was observed to throw himself on his back, as 
if startled at some object beneath him ; but in another mo- 
ment he was pursuing his course. When, however, he was 
about to lay his hands on the bird, his body was violently con- 
vulsed, and, throwing his arms on high, he uttered a most 
piercing shriek, after which he was seen to be gradually drawn 
under the surface, never to reappear ! 

On the ninth day after we had entered the Teoge we left 
the principal channel and passed into the Omoroanga (little 
river) Vavarra. This rivulet is merely one of the small 
branches of the main stream (formed by its overflowing its 
banks) so frequently met with, and which usually rejoin it 
after a day or two. The Omoroanga Vavarra is only navi- 
gable with canoes when the Teoge is at its greatest height, 
and even then the navigation is of the most intricate descrip- 
tion. The boatmen, many of whom were born and bred in 
the neighborhood, constantly lose their way. We passed 
two nights on the Omoroanga, during which time we were 
exposed to much inconvenience and hardship. 

Lecholetebe had placed two canoes at my disposal, but the 
rascally boatmen had by this time so filled them with their 
own things that no place was left for me. The consequence 
was, as the country was one succession of swamps, lakes, 
rivulets, and quagmires, I found myself early and late im- 
mersed in water, sometimes swimming, at others wading up 
to my neck. Indeed, from the time that I left my camp on 
the Zouga to my return to it, a period of about a month, I 
scarcely knew what it was to have a dry thread about me. 
The only time I could partially dry my clothes was at night 
along the bivouac-fire ; but then I had to lie down wet. It 
would have been ruinous to any constitution not previously 
inured to hardships of all kinds. 

But I was compensated for what I lost in comfort by the 
beauty of the surrounding scenery. Wherever the soil was 
raised a few feet above the surface of the water, it was 
covered by a rich and majestic vegetation. 



474 BATEYE VILLAGE DECEIVED BY LECHOLETEBE. 

At length, and after about twelve days' voyaging, we 
reached a large village where the great chief of the Bayeye 
resided. This was a charming spot, and one to which the 
most skillful artist would have had some dilGQculty in doing 
justice. Located on a small island about two hundred feet 
long by one hundred in breadth, the village consisted of 
somewhat more than a hundred houses, standing in the midst 
of a beautiful group of elegant fan-palms, and some gigantic 
wild fruit-trees. At the foot of the werft, in a semicircle, 
the clear, transparent Teoge wound its meandering course. 
On every side, as far as the eye could reach, lay stretched a 
sea of fresh water, in many places concealed from sight by a 
covering of reeds and rushes of every shade and hue, while 
numerous islands, spread over its surface, and adorned with 
rich, vegetation, gave to the whole an indescribably beautiful 
appearance. This was particularly the case at sunrise and 
sunset, when the luxuriant vegetation received additional 
charms by the brilliant but softened rays of a tropical sun. 

I had been given to understand by Lecholete'be that the 
chief at whose werft I had now arrived was to have pro- 
vided me with, other men and other boats. To save time, as 
also in accordance with the men's own wishes, I sent my 
principal guide and others to inform the chieftain of my com- 
ing, requesting him to get every thing ready ; but, on reach- 
ing the place the following day, I found, to my utter aston- 
ishment, that he, with all his people, had set out that very 
morning to hunt the sea-cow; and no one could, or rather 
would, inform me when the great man was likely to return. 

It now occurred to me that I was deceived, and my sus- 
picions at once fell upon Lecholetebe. Still, hoping I might 
be mistaken, I waited patiently for several days, but to no 
purpose. In the mean time, the women of the village had 
secretly informed Timbo, who, as usual, was a great favorite 
with the sex, that their husbands would to a certainty not 
return for a month, and that even then I could not expect 



THE author's plans MARRED. 475 

to receive any assistance from them. I felt excessively mor- 
tified at being thus basely duped, and at once called on the 
only man left in the place, who, I was informed, was the 
chief's brother, and ordered him to tell me, without prevari- 
cation, the real state of the case. As I had suspected, Le- 
choletebe was at the bottom of the affair. The man declared 
he had no orders to furnish me with men and boats, but that, 
if I insisted on proceeding, he was to give a guide to the next 
tribe, whence I was to find my way to Libebe as well as I 
could, well knowing that such an arrangement was quite in- 
compatible with my designs. 

It is impossible to describe my feelings at being thus baf- 
fled, as, from the success that had hitherto attended me, I had 
sanguinely hoped it would have been in my power fully to 
carry out all my plans. Here I was, in the midst of an in- 
undated country of unknown extent, without men, without 
conveyances, without provisions — in short, without any thing 
necessary for such an expedition. Indeed, I was so com- 
pletely at the mercy of the natives that I could not stir a 
step without their assistance. Nevertheless, rather than be 
thus foiled, I determined to risk the utmost, and directed the 
promised guide to appear without delay, declaring my inten- 
tion of proceeding to Libebe on foot. But it was quite clear 
they had resolved not to let me pass beyond them, for, though 
I waited several days more, the man was not forthcoming. 

Finding remonstrances unavailing, I had no alternative but 
to retrace my steps, and, accordingly, I requested the tem- 
porary chief to prepare the canoes to convey me back to the 
Lake. This highly delighted and gratified the wily savage. 

Mortified and annoyed at the shameful manner in which 
I had been treated, I was nevertheless glad to have come 
thus far. I had learned much in this short time (a summary 
of which will be given in the following chapters), which I 
could not have done had I remained at the Lake, to say noth- 
ing of the beautiful, diversified, and novel scenery which al- 



476 



THE KEED-FERKY THE BATETE. 



most daily presented itself to the view, which alone was a 
sufficient reward for my troubles and anxieties. 




KEED-FEERT.* 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 



The Bayeye. — Their Country ; Persons ; Language ; Disposition ; Ly- 
ing and Pilfering Habits. — Polygamy practiced among the Bayeye. 
— Their Houses ; Dress ; Ornaments ; "Weapons ; Liquors ; Agri- 
culture ; Grain ; Fruits ; Granaries. — Hunting. — Fishing. — Nets. — 
Diseases. — The Matsanyana. — The Bavicko. — Libebe. 

For a considerable distance to the northward of the chief's 
werft, the banks of the Teoge are inhabited by Bayeye, and 
a few scattered Bushmen, all acknowledging Lecholetebe as 
their chief. Cooley supposes that these people came origin- 
ally from the West Coast, and that they have been established 

* The above wood-cut represents a native in the act of ferrying him- 
self across the river on nothing but a bundle of reeds, with sidings 
and uprights of the same light materials. It is a most ingenious con- 
trivance, and, in localities where wood is scarce, answers the purpose 
admirably. 



THE BAYEYE. 477 

in their present abode for a long period. Formerly, and be- 
fore their subjugation by the Bechuanas, they must have pos- 
sessed a large territory, and even now the country they oc- 
cupy is of considerable extent, consisting, as I believe, of one 
continued plain, intersected by rivers, with extensive marshes. 
The banks of the rivers are, in general, very low, but wher- 
ever they rise a few feet above the level of the water they 
are shaded by a rank and wild vegetation. The trees are of 
a gigantic size, having their stems and branches interwoven 
with beautiful parasitical plants and creepers. 

In person, feature, and complexion the Bay eye appear close- 
ly allied to the Ovambo and the Hill-Damaras. 

The language of the Bay eye bears considerable resemblance 
to the Ovaherero, and has, moreover, some affinity with the 
dialects of the East Coast, though two or three " klicks" would 
seem to indicate a Hottentot origin.* 

The Bayeye are of a merry and cheerful disposition, and, 
like my friends the Damaras, are the happiest of creatures, 
provided they have a pot full of flesh and a pipe. These ele- 
ments of human felicity are not, however, peculiar to savages, 
as may be seen in the following stanza. of an old song, often 
chanted by our English rustic forefathers : 

" What more can any man desire, 
Nor sitting by a good coal fire, 



* As perhaps many of my readers are interested in philology, I may 
mention that in the " Geographical Journal" of this year I have intro- 
duced a short vocabulary of the Bayeye language. The words, though 
necessarily few in number, have been selected with a view to their 
utility, and consist chiefly of those denoting family relations, names 
of the different parts of the body, familiar objects, numerals, &c. I 
have, at the same time, given the corresponding terms in the Otjihe- 
rero (Damara) and the Chjlimanse (a tribe inhabiting the countr}' 
west of the Portuguese settlement on the East Coast) to show the strik- 
ing analogy existing between these languages. The nations here men- 
tioned occupy a narrow strip of territory extending obliquely across 
the continent from the West Coast almost to that of the East. 



478 



THIEVING PROPENSITIES. 



And on his knee a pretty wench, 
And on the table a bowl of punch ?' 



In one respect the English clown has an advantage over the 
barbarian of South Africa, inasmuch as the latter does not ap- 
pear to make any stipulation in favor of a female companion. 

The Bayeye are much given to lying and pilfering, and are 
as suspicious as they are deceitful. As an instance of their 
thievish propensities, I may mention that, when ascending the 
Teoge, they deprived me gradually of almost the entire stock 
of articles of exchange, consisting chiefly of beads. These 
things constituted my only money, and being well aware that 
without it 1 should not be able to get on, I determined to 
recover my property at all hazards. But, before proceeding 
to extremes, I was anxious to acquire positive proofs of the 
guilt of my treacherous companions. Accordingly, I order- 
ed my own men to mark carefully the different parcels. As 
soon as the canoes arrived at night at the appointed rendez- 
vous (we ourselves, as I have mentioned, were walking) we 
hastened to the shore, and, while Tirabo was ransacking the 
baggage, I stationed myself at the head of the canoe, in order 
to prevent the crew from landing until we had ascertained if 
any pilfering had taken place during our absence. 

Scarcely had my servant opened the first pack before he 
exclaimed, " Oh yes, master, the rascals have been there, sure 
enough !" Immediately stepping up to the native who was 
in charge of the canoe, I presented my gun, on cock, at his 
head, threatening to blow out his brains if he did not instant- 
ly produce the stolen goods. A scene of the utmost confusion 
now took place. The men appeared at first inclined to be 
hostile, many seizing their arms, while the women were run- 
ning to and fro, crying and howling in a manner which baf- 
fles all description. However, I was determined, come what 
would, to have my property back, and I quietly told them 
that their menaces should be of no avail, for the first indi- 
vidual who attempted to molest me would, to a certainty, be 



irrTHOLOGY RELIGION POLYGAMY. 479 

a dead man. And, to give effect to my threat, I added, with 
a significant look at the gun, that they well knew I was not 
much in the habit of missing my mark. Conceiving that I 
was in earnest, they thought better of the matter, and in a 
few seconds I had half a dozen of them at my feet, begging 
I would spare their lives, and promising that if I would not 
mention the circumstance to their paramount chief, Lecho- 
letebe, they would forthwith restore the missing articles. 

Being but too glad to recover my property on such easy 
terms, I declared myself satisfied, warning them, however, 
of the consequences of any future attempt on their part to 
steal, as I should certainly not again trouble myself about 
inquiring who was the thief, but would simply shoot the first 
man I came across. This had the desired effect; for they 
not only left my property untouched for the future, but treated 
me with far more civility than they had hitherto manifested. 

The men, excepting when hunting and fishing, in which 
pursuits they show great activity, usually lead a very idle 
life at home. All the drudgery falls on the women, who 
till the ground, reap, and afterward cleanse and grind the 
corn, &c. 

Kespecting their mythology and religion I am so much in 
the dark that it would not be worth while to communicate 
to the reader the little I know. It is always difficult to ob- 
tain information on these subjects from savages; and, be- 
sides, it requires both time and a knowledge of their lan- 
guage. This applies also, though not to as great extent, to 
their superstitious notions, which are numerous, and, as may 
well be supposed, often ridiculous. 

Polygamy prevails among the Bayeye, and one not un- 
frequently finds the more wealthy consoling themselves with 
half a dozen wives. 

They live in large round huts, covered with matting made 
of rushes, and constructed in the same manner as those of 
the Namaquas. 



480 DRESS ORNAMENTS ARMS OCCUPATION* 

The men have adopted, as in many other things, the dress 
of their conquerors, the Bechuanas, which consists simply of 
a piece of skin, broad in front, tied round the waist, with a 
tassel attached to it on each side falling down over the hips ; 
and, in addition to this, they wear a skin, or light caross, 
which they accommodate to the body according to the state 
of the weather. 

The women dress very much like those of the Damaras, 
viz., with a short skin skirt, which, as well as their own 
persons (when they can afford it), is profusely bedecked with 
beads and various brass, copper, and iron ornaments. But 
the plate facing this page will give a far better idea of the 
appearance, attire, &c., of these people than can be conveyed 
in words. 

They are fond of the dance, which is a mimic representa- 
tion of the playful sports and courtships of the different wild 
animals surrounding them. 

The only weapons in use among the Bay eye are light jav- 
elins, having sometimes two or three barbs. In addition to 
this, the elders of the nation carry a shield, nearly oval in 
form, made of a single fold of ox-hide ; but they have only 
become acquainted with this means of defense since they 
were subdued by the Bechuanas. To the want of shields 
they entirely attribute their own defeat. 

With regard to their habits, customs, manners, &c., much 
of what has already been said of the Bechuanas may be ap- 
plied to the Bayeye — a natural consequence of subjugation. 

Like most dark-colored nations, they are addicted to in- 
toxicating liquors. They understand how to brew beer, on 
which they frequently become inebriated. 

The men are inveterate snuff-takers, and the women 
" dacka" smokers. 

In former times the Bayeye possessed numerous herds of 
cattle, but these passed into the hands of the Bechuanas 
upon their assuming the mastery over the country. They 



BAYEYE. 



481 




BAYEYE. 



X 



482 PRODUCTS. 

are permitted, however, to rear a few goats, which they do 
less for the sake of the milk and flesh than for the skins, 
which are converted into sleeping rugs, and carosses for wear. 
They also keep a few barn-door fowls, but apparently of a 
very ordinary breed. 

They derive their chief subsistence from the produce of the 
soil, which is fertile, yielding the necessaries of life in abun- 
dance, and with little labor. A month or two before the 
rainy season the ground for cultivation is selected, cleared, 
and slightly worked by a small, short hoe, the only agricul- 
tural implement I have seen used by the Bayeye in tilling. 
After the first heavy rains they begin to sow the com, of 
which there are two kinds indigenous to the country, name- 
ly, the common " CalFre," and another sort, very small-grain- 
ed, and not unlike canary-seed — a description which is akin, 
as I am informed, to the " badjera" of India. This is more 
nutritious than the other, and, when well ground, makes ex- 
cellent flour. Tobacco, calabashes, watermelons, pumpkins, 
beans, and small peas are also grown, as well as different 
kinds of edible earth-fruits, of which the oiengora (motu-o- 
hatsi of the Bechuanas, I believe) may be mentioned in par- 
ticular. This is a sort of bean, having its pods under ground. 
It is well known to the Mozambiques ; is extensively grown 
by the black population in Mauritius, and is, I am told, no 
uncommon article of importation at the Cape of Good Hope. 

Moreover, the country, as before said, produces a variety 
of wild fruit-trees, which serve no less to beautify the scene- 
ry than to afford good and wholesome sustenance to the in- 
habitants. Among the most handsome and useful trees, the 
moshoma stands, perhaps, pre-eminent. On account of tlje 
great height, the straightness of the trunk, and the distance 
at which it begins to branch out, the fruit can only be gath- 
ered when it falls to the ground. It is then exposed to the 
sun for some time, and, when sufficiently dried, is put into 
a hollow piece of wood (a sort of mortar) and pulverized. It 



A USEFUL PLANT HUNTING— FISHING. 483 

is fit for use at any time by simply mixing it with water, 
when it is not unlike honey in appearance, and has a sweet, 
agreeable flavor. Strangers, however, must use it cautiously 
at first, for if eaten in any large quantity it is apt to derange 
the stomach. The moshoma invariably grows on the banks 
of rivers, or in their immediate neighborhood, and may, with 
the greatest facility, be conveyed down the Teoge to the 
Lake. The Bay eye use the timber extensively for canoe- 
building and in the manufacture of utensils. I found the 
moshoma growing in Ovambo-land, and I am also given to 
understand that it is common throughout the countries west 
of the Portuguese settlements on the East Coast. 

The Bayeye store their corn and other products of the soil 
in large baskets, not unlike those of the Ovambo, manufac- 
tured from palm-leaves and other fibrous and tenacious sub- 
stances. 

The Bayeye are fond of hunting, and as the country 
abounds in game, the spoils of the chase contribute material- 
ly to the support of the people. They are, moreover, ex- 
pert fishermen. They either strike the fish with a barbed 
spear, or, more commonly, capture them in nets. These are 
made from the fibrous stalks of a species of aloe, which is 
found in abundance throughout the countries of the Nama- 
quas, Damaras, the Ovambo, and others lying to the east- 
ward, but only grows to perfection about the Teoge. The 
fibres are of great tenacity, apparently stronger and more flex- 
ible than hemp, though requiring less labor and attention in 
its growth and manufacture. Could this plant be natural- 
ized, it would no doubt prove a valuable acquisition to any 
country. I believe the nets are also occasionally manufac- 
tured from fibrous and tenacious leaves, rushes, and grasses. 
The meshes are knotted the same way as in Europe. 

From the humid nature of the country, the Bayeye, al- 
though, generally speaking, a healthy race, suffer at times 
from rheumatism and other similar affections. Ophthalmia 



484 THE MATSANYANA THE BAVICKO— LIBEBE. 

is also of frequent occurrence ; and many of the natives bear 
marks of the small-pox. Like the Lake district, the Teoge 
and the surrounding country is visited by a dangerous fever, 
which carries off many of the natives. 

North of the Bayeye country we find the Matsanyana, 
but I have not been able to ascertain whether these people 
form a distinct nation. 

Still further north, that is, beyond the Matsanyana, we 
hear of the Bavicko (or Wavicko) nation, whose capital is 
called Libebe, from which also the chief derives his name. 
The Griquas, whom I mentioned when speaking of the water- 
sheds of the Lake, and whom I met and conversed with on 
the subject, say that the country about Libebe is flat and 
thickly overgrown with bush, occasionally relieved by large 
isolated trees, and that the Teoge is there of great width and 
studded with beautiful islands, on which the natives chiefly 
dwell. 

The Bavicko are represented as an industrious and honest 
people of agricultural habits. Their mode of dress resem- 
bles that of the Moviza (a great trading nation in the interior 
of the East Coast, and west of the Portuguese settlement). 
Timbo, who was well acquainted with the appearance of the 
Moviza, on hearing a description of the Bavicko, mistook 
them for the former nation. The latter have some slight 
knowledge of metallurgy. Iron they procure easily and in 
abundance from their neighbors ; but, from all I can gather, 
this ore does not seem to be indigenous to their own country. 

Libebe appears to be the centre of a great inland trade. 
Among other tribes that repair here for the purpose of com- 
merce are the Mambari, a race probably resident in the vi- 
cinity of the new Portuguese settlement. Little Fish Bay. 
A strong argument in favor of this supposition is, that the 
Griquas, lately alluded to, and who found a party of these 
men at Libebe, were informed by them that their tribe was 
visited by two different white nations : by one of them — 



DEPARTURE FROM THE BAYEYE WERFT ON A RAFT. 485 

meaning probably the Portuguese — chiefly for the purpose of 
purchasing slaves ; by the other — most likely the English or 
Americans — to obtain, by barter, ivory and other valuable 
productions of the country. The Mambari bring to Libebe, 
as articles of exchange, blue and striped cotton, baize, beads, 
and even cattle. 

Again, we find the Ovapangari and Ovapanyama also 
visiting Libebe for trading purposes. These nations, as be- 
fore mentioned, occupy the country north of Ovambo-land. 
On a visit to the latter in 1851 (Galton's expedition), we 
found the tribes above named likewise trading with the 
Ovambo. The Bavicko have, moreover, intercourse with 
Sebetoane, Lecholetebe, and others. 



CHAPTER XL. 



Departure from the Bayeye Werft. — The Reed-raft. — The Hippopota- 
mus. — Behemoth or Hippopotamus. — Where found. — Two Species. 
— Description of Hippopotamus. — Appearance. — Size. — Swims hke 
a Duck. — Food. — Destructive Propensities of the Animal. — Disposi- 
tion. — Sagacity. — Memory. — Gregarious Habits. — Nocturnal Habits. 
— Domestication. — Food. — Flesh. — Hide. — Ivory. — Medicinal Vir- 
tues. 

After about a week's stay at the Bayeye werft, I was 
once more launched on the Teoge, and only regretted that 
my course did not lie to the north instead of to the south. 
My departure afforded a fresh proof of the rascality of the 
Bayeye. As previously mentioned, according to the injunc- 
tions of Lecholetebe, I was to have two canoes at my dis- 
posal; but, on the day in question, the natives unceremoni- 
ously deposited me on a raft composed solely of reeds ! When 
I first saw the unshapely mass, I could not help smiling ; and 
it was not until I had set my people the example that they 
ventured to embark. 

This primitive raft, which is in general use among the 



486 THE REED-RAFT. 

Bajeye, either for hunting purposes or for descending the 
Teoge and other rivers, is exceedingly simple in its construc- 
tion. All one has to do is to cut the reeds (the different 
species of palmyra, from their buoyancy, are peculiarly well 
adapted to the purpose) just above the surface of the water, 
and to throw them in layers, crosswise, until the heap is of 
sufficient size to support the party. No binding of any kind 
is requisite; but fresh layers of reeds must occasionally be 
added to the raft, as, from the constant pressure at the top, 
the reeds get soaked, and the air contained in them displaced 
by water. A stout pole is placed upright in the centre of the 
mass, to which is attached a strong and long rope. When 
the voyagers wish to land, this rope is taken ashore by one 
of the men in the canoe that is always in tow or on board 
the raft, and secured to a tree or other firm object. 

No small recommendation to the reed-raft is the extreme 
facility and ease with which it can be constructed. In the 
course of an hour, three or four men can put one together of 
sufficiently large dimensions to support themselves and bag- 
gage. 

This mode of conveyance, though inconvenient enough, is 
well worthy the traveler's attention, and more especially in 
localities where suitable wood for the construction of a com- 
mon raft is difficult to procure — any where, in short, where 
boats or canoes are not obtainable. It must be borne in 
mind, however, that the reed-raft is only available where the 
current is in one's favor. 

Though I was at first much disconcerted at the appear- 
ance of our very primitive looking craft, I soon got accus- 
tomed to it, and it proved far more comfortable than might 
have been supposed. It was much safer, moreover, than our 
own canoes, one or two of which we obtained shortly after 
our departure. No efforts were made to steer or propel the 
raft, which was left entirely to the stream. As soon as we 
were caught by some projecting reed-bed — and this was of 



BEHEMOTH. 487 

frequent occurrence — the raft immediately swung round and 
thus disengaged itself; but when we came in contact with 
trees overhanging the river, we were more inconvenienced ; 
for, before we could get clear of them, ourselves and baggage 
were at times nearly swept into the water. In this manner, 
nevertheless, and without serious accident, we accomplished 
about one hundred and fifty miles in nine days, entirely by 
the force of the current, which rarely exceeded two miles an 
hour. 

While descending the Teoge we met several parties of na- 
tives in pursuit of the hippopotamus ; the men were em- 
barked on rafts similarly constructed as our own. But, be- 
fore describing the manner in which the chase is conducted 
by these people, it may be proper to say a few words regard- 
ing the natural history of the above animal. 

" Behold now behemoth which I made with thee ; he eat- 
eth grass as an ox : his bones are as strong pieces of brass ; 
his bones are like bars of iron ; he lieth under the shady 
trees, in the covert of the reed and fens. The shady trees 
cover him with their shadow : the willows of the brook com- 
pass him about. Behold, he drinketh up a river ; he trusteth 
that he can draw up Jordan into his mouth. He taketh it 
with his eyes ; his nose pierceth through snares." 

The above grand and figurative language of the book of 
Job seems particularly applicable to the hippopotamus, whom 
most people believe to be identical with the behemoth of the 
sacred writer. Indeed, in his " Systema Naturae," Linnaeus 
ends his description of the hippopotamus with calling it the 
" Behemot JohV 

The hippopotamus is generally distributed in the large 
rivers and lakes of Africa, from the confines of the Cape 
Colony to about the 22d or 23d degree of north latitude. It 
is found in none of the African rivers that fall into the Med- 
iterranean except the Nile, and in that part of it only which 
runs through Upper Egypt, or in the fens and lakes of Ethi- 



488 DESCRIPTION OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. 

opia. It is, however, receding fast before civilization. It 
inhabits both fresh and salt water. 

Formerly, there is every reason to believe it existed in parts 
of Asia ; but the species is now extinct on that continent. 

There are said to be two species of hippopotami in Africa, 
namely, the hippopotamus ainphibius and the hippopotarmis 
Liberiensis, the latter being described as very much the small- 
er of the two ; but, to the best of my belief, I never fell in 
with it. 

The hippopotamus is a most singular-looking animal, and 
has not inaptly been likened to a " form intermediate be- 
tween an overgrown hog and a high-fed bull without horns 
and with cropped ears." It has an immensely large head. 
Ray says the upper mandible is movable, as with the croco- 
dile. Each of its jaws is armed with two formidable tusks ; 
those in the lower, which are always the largest, attain, at 
times, two feet in length. The inside of the mouth has been 
described by a recent writer as resembling " a mass of butch- 
er's meat." The eyes — which Captain Harris likens " to 
the garret windows of a Dutch cottage" — the nostrils and 
ears, are all placed nearly on the same plane, which allows the 
use ol three senses, and of respiration, with a very small por- 
tion of the animal being exposed when it rises to the surface 
of the water. The size of its body is not much inferior to 
that of the elephant, but its legs are much shorter — so low, 
indeed, is the animal at times in the body that the belly al- 
most touches the ground. The hoofs are divided into four 
parts, unconnected by membranes. The skin, which is of 
nearly an inch in thickness, is destitute of covering, excepting 
a few scattered hairs on the muzzle, edges of the ears, and 
tail. The color of the animal, when on land, is of a purple 
brown ; but when seen at the bottom of a pool it appears 
altogether different, viz., of a dark blue, or, as Dr. Burchell 
describes it, of a light hue of Indian ink. 

When the hippopotamus is enraged, its appearance is most 



SIZE OF THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. 489 

forbidding and appalling, and I am not surprised to hear of 
people losing their presence of mind on being suddenly 
brought into contact with the monster, whose horrible jaws, 
when fully distended, afford ample accommodation for a man.* 

The size of the H. amphibius is enormous. The adult 
male attains a length of eleven or twelve feet, the circum- 
ference of its body being nearly the same. Its height, how- 
ever, seldom much exceeds four and a half feet. The female 
is a good deal smaller than the male, but in general appear- 
ance the sexes are nearly alike. 

The following dimensions of the female hippopotamus at 
the Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park, may enable those 
who are curious in the matter to form some notion of the 
progressive growth of the animal — at least in a state of con- 
finement — when young : 

On its an-ival, July 22, 1854. At present, Jan., 1856. 

From nose to tip of tail 8 ft. 4 in. " 10 ft. 1 in. 

Circumference of body 7 1 "89 

Height at shoulder 3 5 " 3 10 

The hippopotamus, when in the water — ^I won't say its 
" native element," for it seems to belong as much to the land 
as the deeps — swims and dives like a duck, and, considering 
its great bulk and unwieldiness of form, in a manner perfect- 
ly astonishing. When on terra Jirma, however, what with 
its dumpy legs and tlie weight they have to support, its 
progress is any thing but rapid. 

"The hippopotamus, amidst the flood 
Flexile and active as the smallest swimmer, 
But on the bank ill-balanced and infirm." 

Even were the beast to charge — provided the locality was 
tolerably open — a man would have no great difficulty in get- 
ting out of his way. It is seldom met with at any consid- 

* In an old painting at Hampton Court representing the Last Judg- 
ment, the mouth of the hippopotamus is said to be figured as the en- 
trance of the " place of the wicked." 

X 2 



490 FOOD DESTEUCTIVENESS DISPOSITION. 

erable distance from water, for which it instantly makes 
when disturbed. 

The hippopotamus is an herbaceous animal. Its chief 
food, in the selection of which it appears rather nice, con- 
sists of grass, young reeds, and bulbous succulent roots. 

When the hippopotamus is located near cultivated dis- 
tricts, it is very destructive to plantations of rice and grain. 
Mr. Melly, in his description of the Blue and White Nile, in- 
forms us that the inhabitants of a certain island found them- 
selves so plagued by these animals that they were obliged to 
apply for troops to drive them away, which was responded 
to by a hundred soldiers being dispatched in pursuit of the 
marauders. Mr. Burckhardt, again, in his travels in Nubia, 
tells us that in Dongola, the " barnick" (the Arabic name 
for hippopotamus) is a dreadful torment on account of its 
voracity, and the want of means on the part of the natives 
to destroy it. During the day it remains in the water, but 
comes on shore at night, destroying as much by the treading 
of its enormous feet as by its voracity. 

The ravages of the hippopotamus would appear to be an 
old grievance, for Sir Gardner Wilkinson, when speaking of 
the ancient Egyptians, says ; " Though not so hostile to man 
as the voracious crocodile, it was looked upon as an enemy, 
which they willingly destroyed, since the ravages it commit- 
ted at night in the fields occasioned heavy losses to the 
farmer." 

Naturalists and others represent the hippopotamus as of 
a mild and inoffensive disposition. It may be so in regions 
where it is unacquainted with man ; from the numerous un- 
provoked attacks made by these animals on voyagers, and 
the very great dread entertained of them by the Bayeye, who, 
so to say, live among them, I am inclined to believe they are 
not quite such harmless animals as we are given to under- 
stand. In ascending the Teoge, I saw comparatively little 
of them, and used almost to ridicule the natives on account 



FEARLESSNESS SAGACITY HABITS. 49 1 

of the timidity they showed when these beasts made their 
appearance. But on my return journey I very frequently 
encountered the hippopotamus. More than once I narrowly 
escaped with life, and found that the men had good reason 
to fear a contest with this truly formidable animal. 

In regions not much visited by the European hunter and 
his destructive companion, the firelock, the hippopotamus 
appears as a comparatively fearless animal, not unfrequently 
abiding the approach of man, whom he apparently surveys 
with a curious and searching look, as much as to say, 
" Why this intrusion upon my native haunts, which I have 
enjoyed in undisturbed tranquillity from time immemorial ?" 
But man is cruel, and by his relentless persecutions a na- 
ture, once unsuspicious and confiding, is soon changed to 
that of the most timid and circumspective, causing the ani- 
mal to take instant refuge in the water on hearing the least 
noise. 

The sagacity of the hippopotamus is very considerable. 
Indeed, if we are to credit the testimony of Plinius, the cun- 
ning and dexterity of this beast is so great that, when pur- 
sued, he will walk backward in order to mislead his enemies. 
" The habits of the animal," says Dr. Andrew Smith, " are 
opposed to our becoming intimately acquainted with it ; yet, 
from what has been noticed of its adroitness in guarding 
against assailants, in avoiding pits dug purposely to entrap 
it, in conducting its young both in and out of the water, and 
in migrating from localities which it may have discovered 
are not to be longer held without serious danger to others 
not exposed to such inconveniences — even though to reach 
those it may require to make long journeys — are all evidences 
that it is far from the stupid animal it has been frequently 
described." 

It is asserted that if a hippopotamus be shot dead just 
after calving, the offspring will immediately make for the 
water, an element which it has never yet seen ! 



492 MEMORY HABITS. 

Its memory is also considered good. "When once a hip- 
popotamus," says the author just quoted, " has been assailed 
in its watery dwelling, and injured from incautiously expos- 
ing itself, it will rarely be guilty of the same indiscretion a 
second time; and though its haunts may not again be ap- 
proached by hunters till after a long period has elapsed, it 
will survey such approaches, and perform the movements 
necessary for its respiration with a degree of caution, which 
clearly shows that it has not forgotten the misfortunes to 
which an opposite course had exposed it." 

The hippopotamus is gregarious, and is usually found in 
troops of from five or six, to as many as twenty or thirty. 
It is amusing to watch these animals when congregated ; to 
see them alternately rising and sinking, as if impelled by 
some invisible agency, in the while snorting most tremen- 
dously, and blowing the water in every direction. At others, 
they will remain perfectly motionless near the surface, with 
the whole or part of their heads protruding. In this posi- 
tion they look, at a little distance, like so many rocks. 

The hippopotamus is a nocturnal animal, and seldom or 
never feeds except during the night. He usually passes most 
part of the day in the water, but it is somewhat doubtful 
if this be not rather from necessity than choice. Indeed, in 
more secluded localities, one most commonly sees it reclining 
in some retired spot ; " He lieth under the shady trees, in 
the covert of the reeds and fens. The shady trees cover him 
with their shadows, the willows of the brook compass him 
about." Or it may be under shelter of an overhanging dry 
bank ; or, at least, with its body partially out of the water. 
I have not unfrequently found the animal in this situation, 
and once shot an immense fellow while fast asleep, with his 
head resting on the bank of the river. 

When, from fear of enemies, the hippopotamus is com- 
pelled to remain in the water throughout the day, it takes 
the shore on the approach of night in order to feed. Just as 



DOIHESTICATION KNOWN TO THE ANCIENTS. 493 

it emerges into the shallows, it has the peculiar habit of per- 
forming some of the functions of nature, during which it 
keeps rapidly thumping the surface of the water with its 
stumpy tail, thereby creating a very great noise. I have 
known from twenty to thirty hippopotami thus occupied at 
once ; and, to add to the din, they would at the same time 
grunt and bellow to such a degree as to deprive our party of 
the rest that exhausted nature but too much needed. 

During the nocturnal excursions of the hippopotamus on 
land, it wanders at times to some distance from the water. 
On one occasion the animal took us by surprise, for, without 
the slightest warning, it suddenly protruded its enormous 
head within a few feet of our bivouac, causing every man to 
start to his feet with the greatest precipitation, some of us, in 
the confusion, rushing into the fire and upsetting the pots 
containing our evening meal. 

The hippopotamus would seem to be easily domesticated. 
We may judge so, at least, from the fine specimens now in the 
Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park, which are as manageable 
as most of the larger animals of that magnificent establish- 
ment. Though these are the first living specimens that ever 
found their way into England, the ancient Romans (who, dur- 
ing their conquests in Northern Africa, became acquainted 
with the hippopotamus) held them in captivity. This may 

be safely inferred ; for " on a medal of 
the Emperor Philip, or rather of his 
Queen Otacilla Severa is (as seen in 
the adjoining wood-cut) a very strik- 
ing likeness of a young, and, perhaps, 
hungry hippopotamus, designed by 
some Wyon of the day. This is, per- 
haps, the earliest good figure of the 
creature ; and its representation on 
such a place shows in what estimation, as a novelty, it was 
held." 




494 FOOD FLESH HIDE ^TEETH. 

For the information of the curious in these matters, I may 
mention that the food of the larger of the hippopotami now 
in the Regent's Park Gardens, when first shipped at Alexan- 
dria in 1850, and when yet comparatively a "baby," con- 
sisted of the milk of two cows and three goats. This quan- 
tity, however, until supplemented with Indian corn-meal, was 
found insufficient to satisfy his voracity. On his arrival at 
the gardens, " oatmeal was substituted for Indian corn ; and 
the change, with an extra supply of milk, seemed to give the 
gigantic infant great satisfaction." By degrees, vegetable diet 
was supplied instead of milk ; and at the present day the 
animal is fed on clover, hay, corn, chaff, bran, mangle-wur- 
zel, carrots, and white cabbage. The three last-named vege- 
tables constitute his most favorite food. On this (1 cwt. be- 
ing his daily allowance) he thrives wonderfully, a proof of 
which is, that since his arrival (he then weighed about one 
thousand pounds) he has increased more than a ton in weight. 

The flesh of the hippopotamus is highly esteemed, and 
with justice, for it is very palatable. The tongue is reck- 
oned a delicacy, and the fat (" speck," as it is termed by the 
colonists) is very excellent, and forms a capital substitute for 
butter. In general, both flesh and fat of wild animals have 
a peculiar and often strong flavor, but that of the hippopot- 
amus is an exception. 

The hide is also in much request, and forms no mean arti- 
cle of commerce in the Cape Colony. As already mentioned, 
it is chiefly converted into " shamboks." In Northern Afri- 
ca the hide is used as whips for the dromedary, as also for 
punishing refractory servants. The ancient Egyptians em- 
ployed it largely in the manufacture of shields, helmets, jave- 
lins, &c. 

But the most valuable part of the hippopotamus is its 
teeth (canine and incisors), which are considered greatly su- 
perior to elephant ivory, and when perfect, and weighty-— 
say from live to eight pounds each — have been known to 



MEDICINAL Virtues — the haepoon described. 495 

fetch as much as one guinea per pound. It is chiefly used 
for artificial teeth, for which purpose it is particularly well 
adapted, since it does not readily turn yellow, as is frequent- 
ly the case with elephant ivory ; as also for instruments, knife- 
handles, and a variety of other purposes. 

Medicinal virtues are attributed to certain parts of the 
body of the hippopotamus. According to Thunberg, the pro- 
cessus mamillaris of this animal is an effectual remedy for the 
stone and gravel, and "the fat," says Kolben, "is reckoned 
an excellent thing against a surfeit and a redundancy of hu- 
mors in the body." 



CHAPTER XLI. 

The Bayeye harpoon the Hippopotamus. — The Harpoon described. — 
How the Chase of the Hippopotamus is conducted by the Bayeye. 
— How it was conducted by the ancient Egyptians. — The Spear 
used by them. — Ferocity of the Hippopotamus. — Killed by Guns. — 
Frightful Accident. — The Downfall. 

On the Teoge, and other rivers to the northward of Ngami, 
the natives are accustomed to harpoon the hippopotamus in 
a somewhat similar manner as that practiced with the whale. 
I will endeavor to describe the process, which, singularly 
enough, has never, to my knowledge, been done by any trav- 
eler. 

The harpoon (of iron). A, is, as seen in the following dia- 
gram, short and strong, and provided with a single barb, B. 
The shaft, or handle, C C, consists of a stout pole, from ten 
to twelve feet in length, by three or four inches in thickness. 
At the inner end of the shaft, C C, is a socket for the recep- 
tion of the harpoon, A, which is farther secured to the shaft 
(at about one third from the socket) by a number of small 
cords, E E.* These cords, when the animal is struck, and 

* The object of having the connecting line to consist of a number 
of small cords instead of a single stout one is to reduce the chance 
of its being severed by the teeth of the hippopotamus. 



496 HOTT THE CHASE IS CONDUCTED. 

a strain consequently comes upon them, relax, so as to allow 
the harpoon to slip out of the socket, though, of course, it 
still remains attached to the shaft. To the other extremity 
of the handle is fixed the harpoon-line, F, which is strong, and 
of considerable length, and to the end of this a " float" or 
" buoy," G. 

B o E „ F^ 




HIPPOPOTAMtrS HAEPOOH. 

From the weight of the shaft the harpoon is seldom or 
never hurled at the hippopotamus, but is held by the har- 
pooner, who drives it either vertically or obliquely into the 
body of the animal. 

Sometimes the chase is conducted with canoes alone; at 
others in connection with a "reed-raft," similarly construct- 
ed to that recently described. We will suppose the latter 
plan is adopted. At the appointed time the men assemble 
at the rendezvous, and after every thing has been duly ar- 
ranged, and the canoes needed for the prosecution of the 
hunt drawn up on the raft, the latter is pushed from the 
shore, and afterward abandoned entirely to the stream, which 
propels the unwieldy mass gently and noiselessly forward. 

Hippopotami are not found in all parts of the river, but 
only in certain localities. On approaching their favorite 
haunts, the natives keep a very sharp look-out for the ani- 
mals, whose presence is often known by their snorts and 
grunts, while splashing and blowing in the water, or (should 
there be no interruption to the view) by the ripple on the 
surface, long before they are actually seen. 

As soon as the position of the hippopotami is ascertained, 
one or more of the most skillful and intrepid of the hunters 
stand prepared with the harpoons, while the rest make ready 



APPROACHING THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. 



497 



to launch the canoes, should the attack prove successful. 
The bustle and noise caused by these preparations gradually 
subside. Conversation is carried on in a whisper, and every 
one is on the qui vive. The snorting and plunging become 
every moment more distinct ; but a bend in the stream still 
hides the animals from view. The angle being passed, sev- 
eral dark objects are seen floating listlessly on the water, look- 
ing more like the crests of sunken rocks than living creatures. 
Ever and anon, one or other of the shapeless masses is sub- 
merged, but soon again makes its appearance on the surface. 
On, on glides the raft with its sable crew, who are now 
worked up to the highest state of excitement. At last the 
raft is in the midst of the herd, who appear quite unconscious 
of danger. Presently one of the animals is in immediate 
contact with the raft. Now is the critical moment. The 
foremost harpooner raises himself to his full height to give 




THE KEED-KAFT AND 1IARP00WEE8. 



498 HOW THE CHASE IS CONJDrCTED— THE SPEAR. 

the greater force to the blow, and the next instant the fatal 
iron descends with unerring accuracy in the bodj of the hip- 
popotamus. 

The wounded animal plunges violently and dives to the 
bottom, but all his efforts to escape are unavailing. The 
line or the shaft of the harpoon may break, but the cruel 
barb once imbedded in the flesh, the weapon (owing to the 
thickness and toughness of the beast's hide) can not be with- 
drawn. 

As soon as the hippopotamus is struck, one or more of the 
men launch a canoe from off the raft, and hasten to the shore 
with the harpoon-line, and take a " round turn" with it about 
a tree or bunch of reeds, so that the animal may either be 
" brought up" at once, or, should there be too great a strain 
on the line, "played" (to liken small things to great) in the 
same manner as the salmon by the fisherman. But if time 
should not admit of the line being passed around a tree, or 
the like, both line and "buoy" are thrown into the water, 
and the animal goes wheresoever he chooses. 

The rest of the canoes are now all launched from off the 
raft, and chase is given to the poor brute, who, so soon as he 
comes to the surface to breathe, is saluted with a shower of 
light javelins, of which the following wood-cut is a sample. 
Again he descends, his track deeply crimsoned with gore. 
Presently, and perhaps at some little distance, he once more 
appears on the surface, when, as before, missiles of all kinds 
are hurled at his devoted head. 




THE SPEAE, 



When thus beset, the infuriated beast not unfrequently 
turns upon his assailants, and, either with his formidable 
tusks, or with a blow from his enormous head, staves in or 
capsizes the canoes. At times, indeed, not satisfied with 



ANCIENT METHOD OF CHASING THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. 499 

wreaking his vengeance on the craft, he will attack one or 
other of the crew, and, with a single grasp of his horrid jaws, 
either terribly mutilates the poor fellow, or, it may be, cuts 
his body fairly in two ! 

The chase often lasts a considerable time. So long as the 
line and the harpoon hold, the animal can not escape, be- 
cause the " buoy" always marks his whereabout. At length, 
from loss of blood or exhaustion, Behemoth succumbs to his 
pursuers. 

It is a remarkable fact that almost the same method of 
securing the hippopotamus as that just described was adopt- 
ed by the ancient Egyptians.* 

*' The hippopotamus," says Diodorus, " is chased by many 
persons, each armed with iron javelins. As soon as it makes 
its appearance at the surface of the water, they surround it 
with boats, and, closing in on all sides, they wound it with 
blades furnished with iron barbs, and having hempen ropes 
fastened to them, in order that, when wounded, it may be let 
out until its strength fails it from loss of blood." 

The many drawings relating to the chase, &c., of the hip- 
popotamus to be found on the sculptures and monuments of 
Thebes would seem to prove that the ancient Egyptians 
greatly delighted in this kind of sport. One of these rep- 
resentations is shown on the following page, and has been 
borrowed from that valuable work, "The Manners and Cus- 
toms of the Ancient Egyptians," by Sir Gardner Wilkinson, 
who thus explains the very interesting illustration. 

"The chasseur is here in the act of throwing the spear at 
the hippopotamus, which he has already wounded with three 
other blades, indicated by the ropes he holds in his left hand ; 
and having pulled the animal toward the surface of the wa- 

* In some parts of ancient Egypt the hippopotamus was worshiped. 
It is also said to have been a representation of Typho (in connection 
with the crocodile) and Mars. According to Plutarch, it " was reck- 
oned among the animals emblematic of the Evil Being." 



500 



EGYPTIANS AND HIPPOPOTAMUS. 



ter, an attendant endeavors to throw a noose over its head 
as he strikes it for the fourth time. Behind him is his son 
holding a fresh spear in readiness ;* and in order that there 
should be no question about the ropes belonging to the blades, 
the fourth is seen to extend from his hand to the shaft of the 




spear he is throwing. The upupa, heron, and other birds are 
frightened from the rushes as the boat approaches ; and the 
fish, with a young hippopotamus, seen at the bottom of the 
water, are intended to show the communication of the fenny 
lake with the Nile." 

" The spear they used on these occasions was evidently 
of a different construction from that intended for ordinary 



THE SPEAR AND REEL. 



501 



purposes, and was furnished, as Diodorus observes, with a 
rope for letting out the wounded animal, in the same man- 
ner as practiced hy the modern Ethiopians;* there was 





sometimes another line fastened to the shaft, and passing 

over a notch at its upper end, which was probably intended 

I I to give the weapon a great impetus, as well 

J vL as to retain the shaft when it left the 

blade. The rope attached to the blade was 

wound upon a reel, generally carried by 

some of the attendants. It was of very 

simple construction, consisting of a half 

ring of metal, by which it was held, and a 

bar turning on it, on which the line or 

string was wound." 

Again : " This weapon," alluding to the harpoon, " con- 
sisted of a broad, flat blade, furnished with a deep tooth or 

* Sir Gardner Wilkinson informs us further that the inhabitants at 
Sennaar still follow up the practice of their ancestors, and, like them, 
prefer chasing it in the river to an open attack on shore. 




502 LITTLE DANGER WHILE ON THE RAPT. 

barb at the side, having a strong rope of considerable length 
attached to its upper end, and running over the notched sum- 
mit of a wooden shaft, which was inserted into the head or 
blade like a common javelin. It was thrown in the same 
manner, but, on striking, the shaft fell, and the iron head 
alone remained in the body of the animal, which, on receiv- 
ing a wound, plunged into deep water, the rope having been 
immediately let out. When fatigued by exertion, the hip- 
popotamus was dragged to the boat, from which it again 
plunged, and the same was repeated till it became perfectly 
exhausted, frequently receiving additional wounds, and being 
entangled by other nooses, which the attendants held in read- 
iness as it was brought within their reach." 

To return : If the hippopotamus hunt, as just described 
by me, was conducted altogether from the reed-raft, one's per- 
sonal safety would be little, or not at all, endangered ; for, 
on account of the great size, buoyancy, and elasticity of the 
raft, the animal, however wickedly inclined, could neither 
"board" nor capsize it. But when one pursues him in a ca- 
noe — though far the most exciting way — the peril, as shown, 
is considerable. One morning, when descending the Teoge, 
we met a party of hippopotami hunters, one of whose canoes 
had been upset by one of those animals, whereby the life of 
a man was sacrificed. Indeed, similar mishaps are of con- 
stant occurrence on that river. 

Our own safety, moreover, was considerably jeopardized 
by a hippopotamus. One afternoon, about an hour before 
sunset, I sent a canoe, with several men, in advance, to look 
out for a bivouac for the night, and to collect fuel. They 
were scarcely out of sight when an immense hippopotamus, 
with its calf, rushed out from among the reeds, where she 
had been concealed, and, passing under our raft, almost im- 
mediately afterward made her appearance on the surface of 
the water. Upon seeing this, I lost no time in firing, but, 
though to all appearance mortally wounded, we lost sight 



FF,ROCITY OP THE HIPPOPOTAMUS. 503 

of her at the time. A few minutes afterward, however, on 
coming to a bend of the river, we fell in with the canoe that 
had been sent on, bottom uppermost, and found, to our great 
consternation, that the wounded beast, in going down the 
stream, had caught sight of the canoe, and, instantly attack- 
ing it, had, with one blow of her head, capsized it. The men 
saved themselves by swimming, but all the loose articles were 
either lost or spoiled by the water. Fortunately for me, how- 
ever, I had taken the advice of the Bayeye to remove the 
most valuable of my things, such as books, instruments, &c., 
to the raft previous to the canoe leaving. 

Innumerable instances, showing the ferocity of the hippo- 
potamus, are on record. " Lieutenant Vidal," says Captain 
Owen, in his Narrative of Voyages, and when speaking of 
the River Temby, "had just commenced ascending this stream 
in his boat, when suddenly a violent shock was felt from un- 
derneath, and in another moment a monstrous hippopotamus 
reared itself up from the water, and, in a most ferocious and 
menacing attitude, rushed, open-mouthed, at the boat, and, 
with one grasp of its tremendous jaws, seized and tore seven 
planks from her side ; the creature disappeared for a few 
seconds, and then rose again, apparently intending to renew 
the attack, but was fortunately deterred by the contents of 
a musket discharged in its face. The boat rapidly filled, but, 
as she was not more than an oar's length from the shore, the 
crew succeeded in reaching it before she sank. The keel, in 
all probability, touched the back of the animal, which, irri- 
tating him, occasioned the furious attack; and had he got 
his upper jaw above the gunwale, the whole broadside must 
have been torn out. The force of the shock from beneath, 
previously to the attack, was so violent that her stern was 
almost lifted out of the water, when the midshipman steer- 
ing was thrown overboard, but, fortunately, rescued before 
the irritated animal could seize him." 

In justice, however, to the poor hippopotamus, who, in 



504 KILLED BY GUNS. 

these parts, has already earned for itself a sufficiently bad 
name for ferocity, one must not attribute the whole of the 
casualties that occur on the Teoge to willful attacks on the 
part of the animal; for, owing to the narrowness of the 
stream, it doubtless, at times, happens that, on coming to the 
surface to breathe, it accidentally encounters a canoe, and in 
its fright, or, it may be, in playful frolic, upsets it. 

The colonists, and others who are possessed of guns, most 
commonly shoot the animal from the shore ; and this is not 
a matter of any great difficulty, for when it comes to the sur- 
face, either to breathe or for amusement, "a single shot 
through, or under the ear," as Captain Harris truly says, "is 
fatal to the Behemoth." If there are several "gunners," 
and they station themselves on the opposite sides of the pool 
where the hippopotami are congregated (in which case the 
animals, when rising to the surface, invariably come within 
range of one or other of the party), great slaughter may be 
committed. 

Should the hippopotamus be killed outright, it usually 
sinks, but in about half a day reappears at the surface ; and, 
in order eventually to secure the carcass, it is only necessary 
to keep a sharp look-out in the stream below. 

Shooting the hippopotamus from the shore is attended 
with but little danger. Accidents, however, do at times 
occur. 

" A native," says Mr. Moffat, " with his boy, went to the 
river to hunt sea-cows. Seeing one at a short distance below 
an island, the man passed through a narrow stream to get 
nearer to the object of his pursuit. He fired, but missed, 
when the animal immediately made for the island. The man, 
seeing his danger, ran to cross to the opposite bank of the 
river; but, before reaching it, the sea-cow seized him, and 
literally severed his body in two with his monstrous jaws. 

Various devices are resorted to by the natives of Southern 
Africa to destroy the hippopotamus. At times he is entrap- 



THE DOWNFALL. 



505 






r mm, 







•'.'<«-ff'^^??^://r-' 



THE DOWNFALL. 



506 DESCKIPTION OF THE DOWNFALL. 

ped in pitfalls ; but the most ingenious plan, and which will 
be readily understood by the preceding wood-cut, is by means 
of the downfall, which the natives would seem to practice 
with considerable success. 

A is Behemoth ; B, a downfall, consisting of a log of wood ; 
C C, stones attached to the downfall to increase its weight ; 
D, the harpoon affixed to the lower end of the downfall ; E, 
a tree, or, in lieu of it, an artificial support of about twenty- 
five feet in height ; F F, a line attached to the downfall, 
which, after having been passed over a branch of the tree or 
artificial support, crosses horizontally the pathway that the 
hippopotamus is in the habit of frequenting during his noc- 
turnal rambles. When the animal (which, from the short- 
ness of his legs, lifts his feet but little from the ground) comes 
in contact with the line, secured on either side of the path 
by a small peg, it at once snaps, or is disengaged by means 
of a trigger. The liberated downfall instantly descends, and 
the harpoon is driven deep into the back of the beast, who, 
wounded and bloody, rushes with pain and fury to the near- 
est water, where he shortly dies. His death is sometimes 
hastened by the iron being poisoned. 



CHAPTER XLII. 



Return to the Lake. — The Author starts for Namaqua-land to procure 
Wagons. — Mght Adventure with a Lion. — Death of the Beast. — 
Sufferings of the Author. 

After about a month's absence, I returned in safety to 
the Lake, and was delighted to find that affairs were going 
on prosperously at my camp. My men, however, complain- 
ed much of the begging and pilfering of the natives. They 
had also been greatly annoyed by Lecholetebe, who was one 
of the finst persons I encountered on my arrival. I had long 
been puzzling my brains how I could most effectually pay off" 



CUNNING OF LECHOLETEBE — -RETURN TO NAMAQUA-LAND. 507 

the chief for his treachery, and had resolved to assume an 
angry and dissatisfied air; but a glance at his smooth, sly, 
smiling face was sufficient to mollify every feeling of resent- 
ment ; and when, with the most innocent look, he inquired 
if I had seen Libebe, and if I felt satisfied with the trip in 
general, my anger was turned into mirth, and I burst into a 
hearty laugh. This was all my cunning friend wanted : he 
seemed like one resting completely on a profound sense of his 
own merits, and waiting to receive the thanks and praises 
which he felt to be his due. 

When stopped so unexpectedly in my exploring career by 
the artifices of Lecholetebe, I made up my mind to return 
forthwith to the Cape, partly for the purpose of obtaining a 
fresh outfit, and partly to procure boats suitable to navigate 
the Ngami and its water-sheds, and then return to the Lake 
to follow up my discoveries. But it was not to be. 

As the reader will probably remember, I reached the 
Ngami by means of pack-and-ride oxen ; but I had found 
this mode of traveling so exceedingly inconvenient that I al- 
most dreaded a renewal of it. Moreover, my collection of 
ivory, specimens of natural history, curiosities, &c., had by 
this time so increased that I found my few remaining half- 
broken-in cattle altogether inadequate to the task of convey- 
ing me and my stores to the Cape. A wagon had become 
absolutely necessary, and the only possible way of obtaining 
one was to return to Nam aqua-land, where, should my man 
Eyebrecht not have such a vehicle at my disposal, I was in 
hope of being able to borrow one from the natives. To in- 
sure dispatch, although I stood sadly in need of rest and 
quiet, I determined on undertaking the journey. 

After about a week's stay at Batoana-town, I set out for 
Namaqua-land on the 10th of September, accompanied by 
only one man, leaving Timbo in charge of th'^- camp in my 
absence. 

Before F returned to the T^jike. ajid wap fairlv on niv waA 



508 A NIGHT ADVENTURE WITH A LION. 

home, four months had elapsed ; but, though this portion of 
my travels was not devoid of interest, the volume has already 
swelled to such a bulk that I must content myself with re- 
lating merely one striking incident that befell me, and a few 
general remarks. 

Journeying in a very lonely part of the country, and only 
accompanied by a single native, I arrived one day at a fount- 
ain, situated in a defile between some craggy rocks. The 
water issued from different parts among these cliffs, forming 
little pools here and there ; and though the place was difficult 
of access, elephants and other large game were in the habit 
of flocking to the water nightly. As the stony nature of 
the ground afforded excellent " ambuscades," and being much 
in want of provision, I determined to watch the pools in 
question for a night or two. 

The first night was a failure, but in the second I succeed- 
ed in killing a white rhinoceros. After this, though I watch- 
ed long and well, nothing appeared, and at last sleep overtook 
me. How long I slumbered I know not ; but on a sudden I 
thought, or dreamed, that I was in danger. From much 
night- watching, my hearing and sight had gradually acquired 
such an acuteness that even in sleep I was able to retain a 
certain consciousness of what was passing around me, and 
it is probable that I was indebted to this remarkable faculty 
for the preservation of my life on the present occasion. At 
first I could not divest myself of fear, and for a while my 
senses were too confused to enable me to form any accurate 
notion of the imagined danger. Gradually, however, con- 
sciousness returned, and I could distinctly hear the breathing 
of an animal close to my face, accompanied by a purr like 
that of a cat. I knew that only one animal existed in these 
parts capable of producing the sound, and at once I came to 
the conclusion that a lion was actually stooping over me. 

If a man had ever cause for dread, I think I certainly had 
on this occasion. I became seriously alarmed. My first im- 



I 



DEATH OP THE BEAST— TRYING SITUATION. 509 

pulse was to get hold of my gun, which was lying ready 
cocked immediately before me, and the next to raise myself 
partially from my reclining position. In doing so, I made 
as little noise as possible ; but, slight though it might be, it 
was sufficient to attract the notice of the beast, who uttered 
a gruff kind of growl, too well known to be misunderstood. 
Following with my eyes the direction of the sound, I endeav- 
ored to discover the lion, but could only make out a large 
dark mass looming through the night-mist. Scarcely know- 
ing what I was about, I instinctively leveled my gun at the 
beast. My finger was on the trigger ; for a moment I hesi- 
tated ; but, by a sudden impulse, pulled it, and the next in- 
stant the surrounding rocks rang with the report, followed by 
roarings from the beast, as if in the agonies of death. Well 
knowing what a wounded lion is capable of, and how utter- 
ly helpless I was, I regretted my rashness. The wounded 
beast, who at times seemed to be within a few paces of the 
" skarm," and at others at some little distance, was rolling 
on the ground, and tearing it up, in convulsive agonies. How 
long this struggle between life and death lasted is hard to 
say, but to me it appeared an age. Gradually, however, and 
to my great relief, his roars and moans subsided, and after a 
while ceased altogether. 

Dawn at length appeared ; but it was not until after some 
time, and then with much caution, that I ventured to ascer- 
tain the fate of the lion, whom, to my great satisfaction, I found 
dead within fifty yards of my place of concealment. The 
beast was of an average size, but, unfortunately, the hyaenas 
and jackals had played sad havoc with his skin. 

Some time previously, my men, Eyebrecht and Klaas Zaal, 
had also shot a lion in this identical spot ; but, owing to his 
fearful growls while dying, they thought it best to decamp at 
once without ascertaining his fate. 

During the four months that I was absent from my men, 
I traveled, either alone or accompanied by a single native, 



510 



SUFFERINGS OF THE AUTHOR. 



sometimes on foot, and at others on horseback or ox-back, 
over upward of a thousand miles of country, parts of it emu- 
lating the Sahara in scarcity of water and general inhospi- 
tality. Tongue is too feeble to express what I suffered at 
times. To say nothing of narrow escapes from lions and 
other dangerous beasts, I was constantly enduring the crav- 
ings of hunger and the agonies of thirst. Occasionally I was 
as much as two days without tasting food; and it not un- 
frequently happened that in the course of the twenty-four 
hours I could only once or twice moisten my parched lips. 
Sometimes I was so overcome by these causes, coupled with 
bodily fatigue, that I fainted. Once both my steed and my- 
self (as seen in the sketch below) dropped down in the midst 
of a sand-plain, where we remained a long time in a state 





ATJTnOK AND STEED BBOKEN DOWN. 



bordering on unconsciousness, and exposed to all the injuri- 
ous effects of a tropical vsun. I would at times pursue my 



SIGNAL STATION. 



511 



course with a pained and listless step, scarcely knowing what 
I was about, and staggering like a drunken man. "This," 
says Captain Messum, when speaking of the hardships he had 
undergone in a short tour into the interior of the West Coast, 
"was the pleasure of traveling in Africa. It requires the 
endurance of a camel and the courage of a lion." 




SIGNAL STATION AT CAPE-TOWN. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



A. 

Aamhcup, the, a periodical river, 303 ; 
splendid mirage, at, ih. 

Abeghan, a watering-place, 388 ; tlie Ait- 
thor shoots a large bull-elei)haut there, 
Si)l. 

Afrika, Jonathan, 349 ; his adventure 
with a lion, 350. 

Allen, John, 71 ; enters Mr. Galton's serv- 
ice, ib. ; his adventure on the banks of 
the Swakop, 264 ; falls sick of a fever, 
301 ; emigrates with Hans to Australia, 
334. 

Amral, a Namaqua chieftain, 319. 

Amulets, great faith of the South African 
natives in, 1T9, 319. 

Ana, the, a species of acacia, 42, 58; its 
fruit nutritious food for cattle, ib. 

Animals, domestic, of the Ovambo, 201 ; 
of the Damaras, 228 ; of the Namaquas, 
324; of the Bechuanas, 454; of the 
Bayeye, 480. 

Antelopes, Author stalking, in company 
with lions, 210. 

Archery, the Ovambo inferior to the Da- 
maras in, 184. 

Alrticles of barter of the Ovambo, 175. 

B. 

Baboon Fountain, 172. 

Bahurutsi, the natives at Kuruman send 
embassadors to a rain-maker residing 
among the, 442. 

Bain, Mr., the distinguished South Afri- 
can geologist, 333. 

Bam, Mr., slight results of his missiona- 
ry efforts among the Namaquas, 42 ; his 
wonderful escape from a rhinoceros, 
49, 50. 

Baobob-tree, the, 415, 426. 

Baraien, its aspect and situation, 106 ; ill 
suited for an encampment, 125 ; return 
to, 214 ; second departure from, 241. 

Basutos, the famous king of the, 438. 

Batoana, the, a Bechuana tribe, 413; 
their appearance and manners, ib. ; 
their government, 437 ; their Pichos, 
ib. 

Bayeye, the, expert fishermen, 455. 

Beads, in request with the South African 
tribes, 202; kinds most esteemed, ib., 
- 323, 455. 

Bean, a species of white, used as an anti- 
dote for snake-bites, 296; the Author 
falls sick from eating a bean-looking 
fruit, 354. 1 

Y 



Bears, affecting story of two, 20. 

Bechuanas, the, their language, 439 ; first 
acquaintance of Europeans with, ib. ; 
their want of religious ideas, 440 ; wiz- 
ards numerous among, 441 ; hold a 
council at Kuruman as to the best 
means of removing a severe drought, 
442; practice circumcision, 448; festi- 
vals attending the age of puberty, ib. ; 
funeral ceremonies, ib. ; vindictiveness, 
450 ; theft a prevailing vice among, ib. ; 
attire, 452 ; great snuff-takers, 453. 

Beer, 193, 480. 

Bees, wild, frequently make their nests 
in the giant dwellings of the termites, 
137 ; their disposition unusually quiet 
and forbearing, ib. 

Berry, delicious, 145. 

Bethany, a Ehenish missionary station, 
304. 

Bill, a Damara lad in the Author's serv- 
ice, loses himself in the bush, 211. 

Blacksmiths, 203. 

Boers, the, on the Trans-vaal River, 27; 
Sir Harry Smith's opinion of, 28; an 
uncivil one, 328. 

Bonfield, George, 036; spoils the Au- 
thor's watch, 390. 

Boom-slang, the <or tree-snake), 294. 

Borele, a species of rhinoceros, 371, 372. 

Buffaloes, following the tracks of, 462; 
proof against bullets, 464. 

Buphaga Africana, the sentinel bird, 212. 

Bushmen, a few met with near Omuve- 
reoom, 158; Lake Omanbonde, called 
Saresab in their language, ib. ; a few 
met with near Baboon Fountain, 172 ; 
and at Otjikoto, 182 ; legend of a Bush- 
woman changing herself into a lion, 
320 ; some met with returning from 
Lake Ngami, 892 ; their manner of 
hunting the koodoo, 467. 

Bush-ticks, deadly effects of the bite of, 
30. 

Bustard, the large, very abundant at 
Schmelen's Hope, 135 ; the flesh good 
eating, 136. 

Buxton Fountain, origin of its name, 105. 

C. 

Caffre-corn, the, 188, 482. 

Oamelopards, a troop of them seen near 
Omanbondd, 106; one shot, ib. 

Canoe, description of a Bayeye, 456, 

(Jape Cross, a vessel supposed to be wreck- 
ed at, 129, 139. 

2 



514 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Cape-Town, 24; varieties of the human 
race encountered in its streets, ib. ; sen- 
sation caused by the Author's appear- 
ance in, 329. 

Caracal, the, 135; its fur warm and hand- 
some, ib. ; supposed medicinal virtues 
of the skin, ib. 

Caravan, 178 ; caravan route, 182. 

Chikor'onkombd, chief of an Ovamho 
trading caravan, 175; his residence, 
188 ; desertion of, 206. 

Christmas in the desert, 119. 

Cobra di capella, the, common in the 
Cape Colony, 293 ; a remarkable escape 
from one, ib. 

Cockatrice, the, Damara's account of, 292. 

Cold weather, 154, 185, 300. 

Comet, the Author observes a remarka- 
ble, 854. 

Cornelius, chief of a powerful tribe of 
Nam aquas, 280. 

Cow, the Damara, 30'^. 

Cunene, a river of Africa, its discovery 
and subsequent mysterious disappear- 
ance, 204 ; the Ovambo often extend 
their trading excursions to, 205; at- 
tempt of Mr. Galton's party to visit it 
frustrated, 20G ; the Ovambo' s account 
of, 430. 

D. 

Dacre's pulpit, 333. 

i)amara-land only partially inhabited, 
217; the seasons there the reverse of 
those in Europe, ib. ; reptiles numer- 
ous in, 293. 

Damaras, the, beautifully formed, 62; 
not strong, ib. ; complexion, ib. ; sym- 
metrical shape of the women, 64 ; cloth 
ing, ib. ; ornaments, weapons, 65; di 
vided into two large tribes, 66; carry 
firebrands at night, 94 ; one struck 
dead by lightning, 108 ; believe that all 
men of a light complexion are their en- 
emies, 111 ; entirely a pastoral people, 
121 ; their notions respecting property 
in land, ib. ; cruelly treated by the Na- 
maquas, 127 ; the flesh of the leopard, 
hysena, and other beasts of prey eaten 
by the poor, 135; a Damara's opinion 
of his countrymen, 143 ; addicted to 
telling falsehoods, 144; their method 
of cooking and eating, 151 ; villages, 
159 ; their immorality, 177 ; eight Da- 
mara women surprised and put to death 
by Bushmen, 208; general reflections 
on, 214, 215; whence they came, 215; 
their conquests, ib. ; attacked by the 
Namaquas, 216; their own ideas re- 
specting their origin, 218; their chief 
deity, ib. ; their tribes, ib. ; have great 
faith in witchcraft, 219 ; a fire always 
kept burning before the hut of their 
chief, 220; curious customs respecting 
food among the, 221 ; the women mar- 
ry at much the same age as those in 
Europe, ib. ; customs on the occasion 
of a girl's betrothal, %■->. ; polyrramy 



practiced among, 222 ; domestic habits, 
ib. ; customs respecting the naming of 
children, ib. ; bury their dead, 223 ; 
ceremonies on the death of one of the 
tribe, ib. ,' the law of succession among, 
222, 225; ceremonies on the accession 
of a new chief, 225; fever and ophthal- 
mia their prevailing maladies, 226 ; 
milk their staple food, 227; fond of 
music and dancing, ib. ; power of the 
chief, ib. ; rudiments of science among, 
228; value their cattle next to their 
women, 309. 

Dance, a, at Nangoro's residence, 193. 

Daviep, arrival at, 52 ; much frequented 
by lions, ib. 

Dogs, miserable plight of the Namaqua, 
278. 

Duikers, the (cormorants and shags), 
mode in which they obtain their food, 
32. 

E. 

Eggs, the, of the ostrich, 60; of the 
Guinea-fowl, 92, 136. 

Eikhams, the residence of Jonker Afri- 
kaner, 130 : twilight at, 230; abundant- 
ly supplied with water, ib. ; hot spring 
in the neighborhood of, ib. ; history of 
the mission at, 231; terrific thunder- 
storm at, 277. 

Elands, spirited chase after, 366. 

Elephants, tracks of, 143 ; breed near to 
Omuvereoom, 158 ; combat between 
rhinoceros and, 164 ; unsuccessful hunt 
of, 170; Hans and Phillippus kill one, 
175; the Author shoots a large bull- 
elephant, 391 ; a midnight meeting with 
a troop of, 394; adventure with a hei*d 
of female elephants at Kobis, 400; a 
midnight spectacle of a magnificent 
troop of, 405. 

Elephant Fountain, arrival at, 233 ; for- 
merly a Wesleyan missionary station, 
ib. ; chiefly inhabited by Hill-Dama- 
ras, ib. ; nature of the country east- 
ward of, ib. ; return to, 236 ; abundance 
of game in its neighborhood, 237. 

Elephant Kloof, the Author shoots a 
magnificent giraffe at, 357. 

Erongo, a mountain famous for its pe- 
cul ar formation, and as a stronghold 
of the Hill-Damaras, 114; about three 
thousand feet in height above the level 
of the plain, 120. 

Etosha, a sterile plain, 156; at times in- 
undated, ib. 

Euphorbia Candelabrum, use made of its 
poison by the Ovaherero and the Hill- 
Damaras, 91 ; fatal to the white rhino- 
ceros, but harmless to the black species, 
ib. ; abundant at Okamabuti, 176. 

Eyebrecht, Mr., Jonker's right-hand man, 
2.31. 



Fever, the Author attacked by, 300. 
Fig-tree, a gigantic one near Otjironjuba 
■"ountain, 156. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



515 



Fire, the Author nearly destroyed by, 

185. 
"Fiscaal," the, curious belief of the Cape 

people respecting, 78. 
Fish, 182. 
Fly, Avasp-like, 5T; the Author severely 

stung by one, ib. 
Flying-Fidh, the, a schooner, 338. 
Foam, the, a small schooner chartered by 

Mr. Galton for the voyage to Walfisch 

Bay, 28, 29. 
Fowl, domestic, 201, 482. 

G. 

Gabriel, his violent disposition, 79 ; dis- 
missed at Barmen, 125 ; marks his sub- 
sequent career with violence and inso- 
lence, 140. 

Galton, Mr., starts for the Erongo Mount- 
ain, 114 ; obtains information from 
Jonker, 139 ; departs for England, 247. 

Gemsbok, the, first sight of, 57 ; death of 
one, 123 ; tlie Damaras feast on it, 124 ; 
description of, 273. 

Geological characteristics of Great Na- 
maqua-land, 313. 

Ghanze, arrival at, 367 ; description of, 
368 ; departure from, 386. 

Giraffe, the, one killed, 59 ; their marrow 
good eating, ib. ; troop of, 92 ; peculiar 
motion of, 93 ; troop of, 154 ; a splen- 
did one pulled down by lions, 396. 

Giraflfe-thorn, the, 42. 

Gnoo, a, chase after and death of, 113 ; 
stalking them in company Avith lions, 
210. 

Grain, kind of, grown among the Ovam- 
bo, 188 ; the storing of, 201. 

Griquas, the Author meets with a party 
of, 347 ; one of them engaged as inter- 
preter, ib. ; information derived from, 
429, 430; severe losses sustained by a 
party of, 469. 

Grosbeak, the social, 104. 

Guinea-fowls, an immense number at 
Onanis, 92 ; the flesh of the young ten- 
der and well flavored, ib. ; the best 
mode of shooting them, ib. ; their eggs 
excellent, 136. 

Guitar, 193. 

H. 

Ilahn, Mr., a missionary of the Rhenish 
Society, settled among the Damaras, 
56 ; a Russian by birth, 108 ; his mis 
sionary labors, 100 ; his coadjutors, ib. ; 
his fruitless efforts to bring about a rec- 
onciliation between the Damaras and 
the Namaquas, 127. 

Hans (Larsen), 68 ; a fine specimen of the 
true Northman, 69 ; his great strength, 
ib. ; an indefatigable sportsman, 70 ; 
enters Mr. Galton's service, ib. ; his 
character for being a good woodsman 
damaged, 154; meets with a little ad- 
venture, 241 ; enters into partnership 
with the Author, 2()5; goes into Dania- 
ra-land to trade with tlie natives, 269; 



has an adventure with the Damaras, 
ib. ; emigrates to Australia, 334 

Hare, the Namaqua superstition resjject- 
ing, 317. 

Hareld, the (Arctic duck), mode in which 
it obtains its food, 32. 

Heat, effects of excessive, 51, 101. 

Heitjeebib, a deity worshiped by the Na- 
maquas, 316. 

Hill-Damaras, the, 60 ; a kraal of, at Ona- 
nis, 89 ; cultivate dacka or hemp as a 
substitute for tobacco, ib. ; unusual 
manner in which they smoke, ib. ; de- 
scription of the pipe they use, 89, 90; 
a kraal of, at the foot of Omuvereoom, 
157 ; probably the aborigines of Dama- 
ra-land, 215. 

Hippopotamus, the, the actions and figure 
of, mimicked by a Damara, 159 ; visits 
Omanbonde, 163 ; one takes up his 
abode at Schmelen's Hope, ib. ; abound 
on the northern side of Lake Ngami, 
434 ; its supposed identity with the Be- 
hemoth of Scripture, 487 ; where found, 
ib. ; two species in Africa, 488 ; descrip- 
tion of, ib. ; its food, 490 ; ravages 
caused by, ib. ; possessed of a good 
memory, 492 ; nocturnal excursions, 
493 ; easily domesticated, ib. ; kept in 
captivity by the ancient Romans, ib. ; 
details respecting those in the Zoolog- 
ical Society's Gardens in the Regent s 
Park, London, 494; its most valuable; 
parts, ib. ; manner in which the Bayeyo 
harpoon, 495 ; drawings on the monu- 
ments and sculptui-es of Thebes relat- 
ing to the chase of, 499 ; the Author's 
safety jeopardized by one, 502 ; in- 
stances of the ferocity of, 503 ; various 
devices for destroying, 504. 

History of Damara-land, 215. 

Hogs, found among the Ovambo, 189. 

Honey, wild, poisonous, 91. 

Horse, the Cape Colony, 326 ; instance of 
the extraordinary endurance of, 327. 

Horse-sickness, the, 67 ; three mules and 
one horse perish of, ib. ; its cause un- 
known, ib. ; usually makes its appeiir- 
ance in the months of November and 
December, 68 ; common throughout va- 
rious parts of Southern Africa, 68. 

Hottentots, a small kraal of, 39 ; Fred- 
erick, their chieftain, and the alarum, 
ib. ; of Great Namaqua-land, 314. 

Hountop River, the, Author's party en- 
camps nea'', 301 ; game abundant in 
the neighborhood of, ib. ; an interest- 
ing atmospheric phenomenon at, 302. 

Houses, the Ovambo, 201 ; the Damara, 
222; the Namaqua, 315; the Bayeye, 
479. 

Hysena, the, 123 ; called wolf by the col- 
onists, 181 ; mode of setting spring- 
guns for, 132; startling appearance of 
a spotted, 369. 



la Kabaka. the, a mountain, 144. 155. 



516 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Ice, 209, 300. 
/ Implementa of husbandry, 58, 104, 202. 
Ivory, 202. 

J. 

Jackal, a mischievous, 364. 

Jonker Afrikaner, 108, 112 ; a letter from, 
125 ; his quarrel with Kahichene, 127 ; 
an instance of his cruelty, 129 ; Mr. 
Galton sets out to visit, 130 ; relations 
between him and William Zwartbooi, 
138 ; sends an express to Zwartbooi for 
his horses, ib. ; promises to live in 
peace and amity with the Damaras, ?&. ; 
his fii'st victories over the Damaras, 
216 ; Avhence he came, ib. ; gifts pre- 
sented by Mr. Galton to, 231 ; the Au- 
thor takes his portrait, ib. ; loses the 
greater part of his cattle, 240 ; his werft 
in the neighborhood of Eikhams, 278; 
engaged in a cattle-lifting foray, 287 ; 
the Author upbraids him for his depre- 
dations, 289 ; his defense, ib. 

Justice, summary, 149. 

K. 

Kachamaha, a powerful Damara chief, 
287 ; the Author's visit to, ib. 

Kahichene, a Damara chieftain, 122 ; im- 
mense number of oxen and sheep pos- 
sessed by, ib. ; his quarrel with Jonker 
Afrikaner, 127 ; meets the Author's 
party at Kotjiamkombe, 147 ; his ap- 
pearance and manners, ib. ; at variance 
with a tribe of Damaras imder the rule 
of Omugunde, 149 ; his summary treat- 
ment of thieves, i&.; his kraal, f&. ; his 
death, 152. 

Kaiaob, the Namaqua witch-doctor, 318. 

Kamapyu, a half-caste native lad, 344. 

Kameel-doorn, the, 104 ; hardness of its 
wood, ib. ; the social grosbeak con- 
structs its nest in the branches of, ib. ; 
groups of, 163. 

Klaas Zaal, engaged as a wagon-driver, 
854. 

Kleinschmidt, Mr., 130, 286. 

Kobis, good shooting at, 398 ; adventure 
with a black rhinoceros there, 389 ; 
with a M'hite one, 400 ; and with a herd 
of female elephants, ib. ; departure 
from, 412. 

Kolbe, Mr., 109, 127, 138. 

ivomaggas, a Rhenish missionary station, 
325. 

Konyati, tlie, a mountain, 143. 

Koodoo, the, a young one caught and 
reared, 130 ; its tragic end, 131 ; de- 
scription of, 465; the Bushmen's man- 
ner of hunting, 467. 

Kotjiamkombe, a splendid vley, 146. 

Kuisip, the, a periodical stream, 41 ; swol 
len by heavy rains, 264. 



Lambert, eldest son of Amral, a Namaqua 

chief, .855. 
Larscn (vide Hans). 



Larvfe, locust, sudden appearance of at 
Schmelen's Hope, 140; conjecture re- 
specting, ib. ; devoured by storks, ib. 

Leche, the, a species of antelope, 431 ; the 
Author shoots one, 458. 

Lecholetebe, chief of the Batoanas, the 
Author sends presents to, 393 ; Tinibo's 
interview with, 402 ; the Author visits, 
418 ; his manner of receiving presents, 
420 ; his greediness, 421 ; his prompt 
mode of punishing his subjects, 422. 

Leopard, the, erroneously called tiger by 
the Dutch, 133 ; one seizes and wounds 
a favorite dog, 134 ; pursued and slain, 
134. 

LibL'be, the capital of the Bavicko, situ- 
ated considerably to the north of Lake 
Ngami, 422; the Author determines to 
visit, 423 ; the centre of a great inland 
trade, 484 ; visited by the Mambari, ib. 

Lightning, a man killed by, 108. 

Lion, the, a daring and destructive one 
slain by Messrs. Galton and Bam, 41 
a horse and niule killed by lions, 53 
panic caused by a troop of lions, 66. 67 
two met with on the banks of the Swa- 
kop, 93 ; narrow escape from, ib. ; mid- 
night interview with a, 97 ; one de- 
prived of his prey, 98; one mistaken 
for a zebra, 112; one kills a goat, 114; 
pursued and slain, 118; the travelers 
serenaded by a whole troop of, 123; 
Mr. Galton confronted by one, 164 ; 
stalking antelopes in company with, 
210 ; very numerous and daring in the 
neighborhood of Zwart Nosop, 238 ; ad- 
venture with one at night, ib. ; story x)f 
the seizure of lion cubs, 243 ; troops of 
them in the neighborhood of Tineas 
and Onanis, 267 ; a lion devours a lion- 
ess, 302 ; a fair shot at one, 342 ; Old 
Piet's adventures with, 343; one finds 
his way into the church at Richterfeldt, 
344 ; instances of their boldness, 350 ; 
unexpected meeting with five, 396; se- 
rious night adventure with one, 508. 

Locust, the, larvas of, 281 ; immense 
masses of, ib. ; their arrival a cause of 
rejoicing to the Bushmen, 283 ; how 
prepared as food, 284. 

Locust-bird, the {S2)ring-haan voijel), 284. 

Louis, a Mozambique liberated slave, 337. 

M. 

Mackintosh punt, 160. 

Malays, the, religion and mode of life of, 
24, 25. 

Mambari, the, an African tribe, 484. 

Matsanyana, the, an African tribe resid- 
ing north of the Bayeye, 484. 

Mimosa, the black-stemmed, found in the 
periodical water-courses, 90. 

Mirage, a remarkable, 33, 303. 

Missionaries, their exertions unavailing 
in Namaqua-land, 42 ; the natives very 
reserved on their first appearance in 
Damara -land, 109; prospect of their 
success at Sclimelen's Hope disappoint- 



GENERAL INDEX. 



517 



ed, 127 ; arrival of the missionary sliip, 
246 ; decline of the mission at Reho- 
both, 286 ; the Rhenish missionary sta- 
tion at Bethany, 304; blamed by the 
Bahurusti rain-maker as the cause of a 
severe drought, 447. 

Monoohoo, a species of rhinoceros, 372. 

Mortar, John, irritability his only fault, 
80 ; a famous teller of stories, 81 ; his 
disappointment in the matter of soap 
manufacture, 237. 

Mosheshe, the famous Basuto king, 438. 

MuTiuru-Mukovanja, a large river, 204; 
the Ovambos' account of, 430. 

Mules, the, one becomes exhausted and 
is left behind, 51 ; shortly afterward 
killed by lions, 53 ; the travelers lay in 
a stock of mules' flesh, 54 ; the flesh of, 
not uni^alatable, 56 ; worn out, 61 ; 
three killed by sickness, 67 ; escape, 
and are intercepted at Barmen, 130; 
again make off, and are not retaken, ib. 

Mummies, 182. 

Mushrooms, grow on the sides of the 
nests of the termites, 137. 

N. 

Naarip, the, a sterile plain, 48, 51 ; tra-s' 
elers often lose their way on, 74 ; the 
Author's party suffers much from cold 
on, 76; affords a good road, 84; its 
pleasant appearance after rains, 266. 

Naitjo, an Ovambo man, 188. 

Nakong, the, a species of antelope, 431 ; 
description of, 431-433. 

Namaqua - land. Great, description of, 
312 ; in a geological point of view, 313. 

Namaquas, the, their 'character, 42, 43; 
their astonishment at the first wagons 
they saAV, 43 ; treat the Damaras very 
cruelly, 127; usually very barbarous, 
129 ; their respect for truth-tellers, 290 ; 
best mode of behaving toward, ib. ; 
names of the chiefs of the Northern, 
315 ; their habitations, ib. ; their relig 
ious ideas, 316 ; their superstitions with 
regard to the hare, 317 ; have great 
faith in sorcery, 318 ; their neglect of 
widows, and cruel treatment of old and 
disabled persons, 322; their custom of 
adopting fathers and mothers, ib. ; per- 
sonal adornment, 323 ; excessively idle, 
ib. ; understand the art of distilling 
spirits, 324; attack Richterfeldt, 339; 
ill-treat the missionaries, ib. 

Nangoro, king of the Ovambo, 165 ; as- 
sists aDamara chief, 169 ; a messenger 
sent to, 186; interview with, 191; his 
personal appearance, ib. ; his wives, 
198. 

Naras, the, a delicious fruit, 27 ; its ben- 
eficial qualities, 38 ; where found, ib. 

Ngami, the Lake, preparations for nav- 
igating, 22; failure of Mr. Galton and 
the Author to reach it, 234; the Au- 
thor ri!solves to make another attempt, 
236 ; first appearance of, 416 ; arrival 
at, 417; first information received by 



Europeans respecting, 423 ; different 
names by which it is known among the 
natives, 424; description of, ib. ; Mr. 
Green' s description of, 425 ; its shores, 
ib. ; must have undergone very consid- 
erable changes at different periods, 
426 ; the Author navigates, ib. ; fed by 
the River Teoge, 427 ; finds an outlet 
at its eastern extremity in the Zouga, 
428 ; a great variety of animals found 
in its neighborhood, 431 ; hippopotami 
abound on the northern side of, 434; 
swarms with crocodiles, 435; snakes 
numerous on the shores, 435, 436; fish, 
436 ; departure from, 507. 
Nosop, the river, 353. 

O. 

Obesity equivalent to high treason among 
certain Afiican tribes, 191. 

Oerlams, a branch of the Hottentot race, 
314. 

Okamabuti, the residence of the Damara 
chief Tjopopa, 168 ; the northern limit 
of Damara-land, 169 ; rank vegetation 
at, 176. 

Omanbonde, Lake, Mr. Galton hears of, 
111 ; sui-mises respecting its extent, 
158 ; Mr. Galton' s party makes prep- 
aration for spending some time on its 
shores, 160 ; arrival at, 161 ; its insig- 
nificance ib. ; visited by hippopotami, 
ib. ; departure from, 166. 

Omatako, 141 ; its beautiful appearance, 
ib. ; the river of, 143. 

Ombotodthu, a mountain, 149 ; remarka- 
ble for its peculiar red stone, 150. 

Ommutenna, a tributary to the Swakop, 
61, 114. 

Omoroanga Vavarra, the, a branch of the 
Teoge, 473. 

Omugunde, the chief of a tribe of Dama- 
ras, 147; slays several of Kahichen^'s 
children, and keeps the others prison- 
ers, 148. 

Omukuru, the chief deity of the Dama- 
ras, 218. 

Omumborombonga, a tree, the supposed 
progenitor of the Damaras, 215. 

Omuramba-k'Omatako, a periodical riv- 
er, 208; supposed to flow toward the 
Bechuana countiy, 209. 

Omurangere, the holy fire of the Dama- 
ras, 220. 

Omutjamatunda, a cattle-post belonging 
to tlie Ovambo, 183; a copious fount- 
ain, 184; ducks and grouse numerous 
there, ib. 

Omuvereoom, the, a mountain, 144; dis- 
tance between it and Omatako, 153; 
arrival at the southern extremity of, 
155; extensive view from its summit, 
157. 

Onanis, the residence of a kraal of very 
poor Hill-Damaras, 89; fine pastur- 
ages, 91 ; troops of lions seen at, 267. 

Ondangere, the vestal virgin of the Da- 
maras, 220. 



518 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Ondara, the, a species of serpent, 291; 
story of one, ib. 

Ondonga, the country of the Ovambo, 
186 ; arrival in, ib. ; water and pastur- 
age scarce, 189 ; departure from, 206. 

Onesimus, Zwartbooi's henchman, joins 
the Author's party, 140; is flogged, 
363. 

Ongeama, native name for lion, 114 ; 
cries of, 178. 

Onguirira, a species of animal resem- 
bling, but totally distinct from, the 
lion, 153. 

Ophthalmia, the Author attacked by, 281. 

Orange River, the, description of, 310. 

Oranges, a feast of, 331. 

Orukumb' ombura, "rain -beggars," the 
name given by the Damaras to col- 
umns of sand driven along by the wind, 
21T. 

Oryx, the death of one, 123 ; the Pama- 
ras feast on it, 124 ; desciiption of, 273. 

Ostrich, the, omelet of the eggs, 60 ; the 
egg equal to twenty-four of the com- 
mon fowl, ib. ; numerous on the Naa- 
rip plain, 247 ; chase and capture of 
part of a brood of young ones, 248 ; in- 
teresting manoeuvre of a parent ostrich, 
ib. ; districts in which found, 250 ; 
types in other parts of the Avorld, ib. ; 
general appearance, ib. ; its cry great- 
ly resembles that of the lion, 251 ; its 
marvelous speed, ib. ; food, ib. ; power 
of enduring thirst, 252 ; season for 
breeding, ib. ; period of incubation, 
253 ; a peculiarity in regard to the eggs 
of the ostrich, 254 ; nature of the cov- 
ering of the young bir>ls, -ift. ; the flesh 
of the young ostrich palatable, ib. ; in 
estimation with the ancient Romans as 
an article of food, 255 ; uses to Avhich 
the egg-shells are applied, 256 ; ostrich 
feathers, ib. ; the ostrich in a Avild 
state, 258 ; its powers of digestion, 259 ; 
resemblance to quadrupeds, ib. ; modes 
in which it is captured, 262. 

Osvvell, Mr., his chase of a rhinoceros, 
382. 

Otjihako-tja-Muteya, 186 ; sufferings from 
cold on, 207. 

Otjikango, the, name of a series of wells, 
172, 179. 

Otjikoto fountain, 180; a wonderful freak 
of nature, ISl ; its remarkable cavern, 
ib. ; visited by a great number of doves, 
182 ; Bushmen reside near to it, ib. 

Otjironjuba Fountain, 156 ; departure 
from, 158. 

Otjombind^, 233. 

Otjruru, an apparition, 219. 

Ottei's, not uncommon in Lake Ngami, 
434. 

Ovaherero, the, their mode of using to- 
bacco, 90; tip their arrows with the 
poison of euphorbia candelabrum., 91. 

Ovambo, the, a people of Africa, 165; 
first interview with, 172; their food, 
173; arms, 174; effect of fireworks on. 



192 ; musical instruments in use among, 
193 ; their personal appearance, 194 ; 
their strict honesty, 196 ; no pauperism 
in their country, ib. ; their national 
pride, ib. ; hospitality, 197 ; staple food, 
ib. ; morality among, 198 ; state of re- 
ligion among, ib. ; their dwellings, 201 ; 
domestic animals, ib. ; farm imple- 
ments, 202 ; their chief articles of ex- 
port, ib. ; have some slight knowledge 
of metallurgy, 203. 

Ovapangari, the, an African tribe, 205, 
485. 

Oxen, invaluable in South Africa, 44; 
method of breaking in, 45; one charges 
Mr. Galton, 47 ; manner of guiding a 
saddle-ox, 71 ; can be made to travel at 
a pretty quick pace, ib. ; training for 
the yoke, 77; vicious one ridden by 
Mr. Schoneberg, 102 ; become wild and 
unmanageable from their over -long 
rest, 123 ; several stolen from Mr. Gal- 
ton' s party, 148 ; extraordinary confu- 
sion among, and the cause of it, 212 ; 
curious custom when an ox dies at a 
chiefs werft in Damara-land, 220; 
their instinctive power of catching the 
scent of humid winds and green herb- 
age at a great distance, 240; instance 
of affection between two, 268; Author's 
adventure with a rimaway, 270; the 
Author has an ugly fall from one, 288 ; 
superstition that they refrain from eat- 
ing on Christmas-eve, 307 ; the Damara 
breed of, ib. ; the Bechuana breed of, 
308 ; the Namaqua breed of, 324. 



Palm-trees, a large number seen, 166; 
description of a peculiar kind of fan- 
palm, ib. ; fruit of the, ib., 188. 

Parrots, crested, 57, 59. 

Pelicans, 77 ; curious mode of flight, ib. 

Phenomenon, 143. 

Phillippus, a Damara, joins the Author's 
party as a wagon-driver, 140. 

Pichos, the (or Parliaments), of the Bato- 
anas, 437. 

Pitfalls for the capture of game, 362. 

Polygamy, 198, 222, 321, 448, 479. 

Population of the Ovambo country esti- 
mated, 189. 

Portuguese, 183. 

Puff-adder, the, 294 ; its manner of seiz- 
ing its prey, ib. 

K- 

Rain-maker, the Bahurutsi, 442 ; murder- 
ed among the Bauangketsi nation, 447. 

Rains, the, begin as early as September 
and October, 125. 

Rath, Mr., 61, 109, 121; his description 
of the track of a nondescript animal, 
133. 

Rehoboth, a Rhenish missionary station, 
139, 281 ; description of, 286 ; the rocks 
in its neighborhood strongly impreg- 
nated with copper, 349. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



519 



Religion, 108. 

Reptiles, numerous in Damara-Iand and 
Namaqua-land, 293 ; superi^titions re- 
specting, 294 ; antidotes used in South- 
ern Africa for the bites of, 295. 

Rhinoceros, the, curious anecdote pre 
served in the archives of Cape-Town 
relating to a death of one, 26; Mr, 
Barn's story of his wonderful escape 
from one, 49, 50; tracks of, 49; one 
shot, T2 ; fall frequently on their knees 
when killed, 73; curious anecdote, ib. ; 
flesh not unpalatable, ib. ; hide useful, 
ib. ; discovery of a, 84; adventure in 
pursuit of one, 85; its escape, 86, 87; 
combat between elephant and, 164 ; 
several shot at Ghanze, 369 ; where 
found, 370 ; four distinct species known 
to exist in South Africa, 371 ; distinc- 
tions between the black and the white 
rhinoceros, 373; appearance of, 374; 
food, 375; breeding, 876 ; Colonel Will- 
iams's story respecting one, 377, 378; 
conflicts with elephants, 878 ; the flesh 
and horns, 380 ; adventure with a black 
rhinoceros at Kobis, 399 ; with a white 
one, 400; the Author shoots a white 
one, 407; desperate adventure with a 
black one, 407, 408 ; method of chasing, 
381 ; Mr. Oswell's stories respecting the 
chase of, 382. 

Richterfeldt, a Rhenish missionary sta- 
tion, reached, 61 ; water abundant, ib. ; 
soil fertile, ib. ; when founded, 62 ; re- 
turn to, 95 ; bid a final farewell to, 123. 

Rifle, obtained in barter, 150; excellent 
weapon, ib. 

Rights of succession, 198, 222, 225. 

Ringel-hals, the, or ring-throat, a species 
of snake, 294. 

Roode Natie, the (or Red Nation), a pow- 
erful tribe of Namaquas, 279; their 
character, 280 ; Cornelius, their chief, 
ib. ; their country, 281 ; few Damara 
slaves among them, ib. 

S. 

Salt-lick, a, 366. 

Sand Fountain, excursion to, 34 ; badness 
of its water, 35 ; its disagreeable guests, 
36; its advantages, 37; general aspect 
of the country in the neighborliood of, 
38 

Sanci-wells, 365. 

Scarlet flower, the, emotions on first see- 
ing, 48 ; observe it again, 49. 

Scenefy, striking, 170. 

Schaap-steker, the, a species of snake, 
294. 

Scheppmansdorf, Mr. Galton arrives at, 
40 ; all the baggage safely deposited at, 
41 ; description of, ib. ; first impres- 
sions of, 76 ; kind friends at, 77 ; de- 
parture from, 83. 

Scheppman's Mountain, origin of its 
name, 103. 

Sclimelen, Mr., a highly-gifted and enter- 
prising missionary, 127. 



Schmelen's Hope, its situation, 126; ori- 
gin of its name, 127; agreeable resi- 
dence ; abundance of game to be ob- 
tained there, 135 ; departure from, 146 ; 
return to, 214. 

Schoneberg, Mr., 101; his mishap, 102; 
his wailing, 103. 

Scorpions, a swarm of, 105; their fond- 
ness of warmth, ib. ; their bite poison- 
ous, but rarely fatal, ib. 

Season, the rainy, in Ovambo-land, 201 ; 
in Damara-land, 217. 

Sebetoane, an African chief, false report 
respecting, 414. 

Serpent, tracks of an immense (the On- 
dara), 290 ; story of a, 291. 

Serpent-stones, 297. 

Servants, described, 78-83 ; African trav- 
elers can not be too particular in the 
selection of, 79; become refractory, 125; 
adventure of one of them with an ox, 
270 ; Damara servants abscond, 355. 

Shambok, the, 73, 74. 

Shrike, a species of, 78; superstitious be- 
lief respecting, ib. 

Smith, Dr. Andrew, 213, 491. 

Snake, a curious species of, 292 ; several 
species occasionally met with in Da- 
mara-land and Namaqua-land, 294; 
antidotes for the bites of, 295 ; numer- 
ous in and about Lake Ngami, 435, 436. 

Snake-stone, the, 298. 

Snuff, manner in which the Bechuanas 
manufacture, 458. 

Spring, hot, at Barmen, 108 ; at Eikhams, 
230; at Rehoboth, 286. 

" Spring," Author's ride-ox, 71. 

Spuig-slang, the, or spitting-snake, 294. 

St. Helena, John, officiates as head wag- 
oner, 80 ; his extraordinary disposition, 
ib. ; discourses on ghosts, 331. 

Steinbok, tlie, a young one taken and 
reared, 130 ; its tragic end, 131. 

Stewardson, Mr., 45. 

Stink-hout, a species of oak, 170. 

Sugar-cane, supposed to exist in many 
parts of Southern Africa, 188. 

Sun-stroke, Author receives one, 58 ; us- 
ual results of a, ib. ; the Author in dan- 
ger of a scconrl, 88. 

Sunrise, the, in the tropics, 51 ; often fol- 
lowed by intense heat, and sufferings 
thereon, ib. ; a mule left behind, ib. 

Superstition, a, Avith regai'd to oxen, 152. 

Swakop, the, first appearance of, 49; its 
cheerful aspect, ib. ; the Author's party 
attacked by two lions on tbe bank of, 
93 ; the Damaras flock with their cattle 
to, 241. 



Table Mountain, 25; ascent by the Au- 
thor of, ib. 

Tans Mountain, 348." 

Tent, the Author's, takes fire, 200. 

Teoge, the River, feeds Lake Ngauii, 427 ; 
sceneiy along the banks of, 4()0 ; croco- 
diles obKcrvt'd on. 471. 



520 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Termites, the, Sclimelen's Hope swarms 
with, 136 ; their method of constructing 
their nests, ib. ; encampment in the 
middle of a nest of, 145 ; instances of 
the fearful ravages they are capable of 
committing in an incredibly-short space 
of time, 155. 

Textor erythorhyncTius^ a parasitical in- 
sect-feeding bird, 213. 

Thirst, suffering from, 52 ; -water not 
quenching thirst, ib. 

Thorn coppices, 182. 

Thunder-storm, a, in the tropics, 107, 141, 
352. 

Tiger-wolf (or spotted hysena), 369. 

Timbo, a native of Mazapa, 81 ; carried 
into captivity by Caflfres, ib. ; sold as a 
slave to the Portuguese, 82; liberated 
by an English cruiser, ib. ; his faithless 
spouse, i b. ; his good qualities, ib. ; hi 
love of (native) country, 83 ; friendship 
between him and George Bonfield, 336 ; 
turns sulky, S52 ; the Author sends him 
to Lake Ngami, 393 ; his return, 402. 

Tineas, the mountain, 52 ; great strong- 
hold and breeding-place of lions, ib. 

Tineas, the Eiver, 84. 

Tjobis, a river and tributary to the Swa- 
kop, 59. 

Tjobis Fountain, arrive at, 60, 93; de- 
part from, 61, 93. 

Tjopopa, a great chief of the Damaras, 
168 ; reach his werft, 169 ; his charac- 
ter, ih.; death of his mother, 176; his 
idleness and fondness for tobacco, ib. ; 
sensuality, 177 ; leaves Okamabuti, 
207. 

Tobacco, great size of leaves of, 110 ; the 
Ovambo cultivate it, 189; buy sheep 
for, 208. 

Topnaars, a branch of the Hottentot 
tribe, 314. 

Toucans, 59. 

Trans-vaal River, the, rumors respecting 
the churlish conduct of the Boers on, 
27. 

Traveling by day injurious, 58, 61; by 
night preferable, but dangerous, 84; 
difficulties of African, 160. 

Trees, bearing an apple-looking fruit, 
176, 189; enormous sized, ib. 

Tsetse fly, the, where chiefly found, 468 ; 
description of, 409 ; poisonous nature 
of its bite, ib. ; result of Captain Var- 
don's experiment on, 470; Mr. Oswell's 
examination of oxen bitten by, 471; 
wild animals unaffected by the poison 
of, ib. 

Tunobis, 233 ; days profitably and pleas- 
antly passed there, 235 ; immense quan- 
tity of game in the neighborhood of, ib.; 
the Author's misadventure at, 360. 

Twass, the head-quarters of the Namaqua 
chief Lambert, 355. 

U. 

Usab, the, a striking gorge, we arrive at, 
83. 



V. 

" Venus," a small half-breed dog, her 
combat with a rhinoceros, 391 ; great 
sagacity of, ih. 

Voet-gangers (vide larvse). 

VoUmer, Mr., 139, 286. 

W. 

Waggoner, John, his sulkiness and reluc- 
tance to work, 79; dismissed at Bar- 
men, 125 ; his subsequent dishonest ca- 
reer, 139. 

Wagons, the, fifteen hundred weight a 
good load for, 78 ; accident to, 170. 

Wait-a-bit thorn, the, 156 ; great strength 
of its prickles, ib. ; excessively trouble- 
some, 367, 413, 415. 

Walfisch Bay, the Author's party advised 
to select this place as a starting-point 
for their journey into the interior, 28; 
arrival at the entrance of, 29; appear- 
ance of the coast as seen from, ib. ; de- 
scription of, 30 ; trading establishments 
there, ib. ; frequented by immense 
numbers of water-fowl, 31 : outrageous 
conduct of the crews of whaling and 
guano ships visiting, 243 ; extroardi- 
nary number of dead fish in, 245 ; the 
Author's second visit to, 339. 

Water, difficulty of obtaining, 306, 387. 

Water-courses, the periodical, afford the 
only really practicable roads, 124. 

Wenzel, Abraham, 79 ; his thievish hab- 
its, ib. ; dismissed at Schmelen's Hope, 
140. 

Whirlwinds, 21T. 

Williams, John, results of his careless- 
ness, 80. 

Willow-tree, the, in the neighborhood of 
Omuvereoom, 155. 

Witch-doctor, the Namaqua, 318. 

Witchcraft, Damaras have great faith in, 
219; the Bechuanas have great faith 
in, 442. 

"Wolf," 114. 

Wolves, or hysenas, 131. 

Women, Ovambo, 194; Damara, 221; 
Bayeye, 480. 



Zebra, melancholy wail of the, 98 ; the 
Author shoots one, 102 ; its flesh not 
veiy palatable, ib. ; a lion mistaken for 
one, 112 ; the Author shoots one, 142. 

Zouga, a river which flows out of Lake 
Ngami, 403 ; runs in an easterly direc- 
tion from Lake Ngami for a distance 
of about three hundred miles, 428; veg- 
etation along its course varied and lux- 
uriant, ib. 

Zwartbooi, William, a Namaqua chief- 
tain, 137; relations between Jonker 
Afrikaner, and, ib. ; his territory, 138; 
assists us with sen-ants, 140. 

Zwart Nosop, many pitfalls for game con- 
structed in the neighborhood of, 238. 

Zwart-slang, the, or black snake, 294, 295. 



LATIN INDEX. 



521 



LATH mDEX. 



Acacia giraflfse, 42, 104. 
Aigocerus ellipsiprymnus, 431. 
Amadina squamifrons, 213. 
Behemot Jobi, 4S7. 
Biiphaga Africana, 212. 
Canis mesomelas, 278. 
Chizoerliis concolor, 53. 
Columber canus, 294. 
Croton, 323. 
Diosma, 323. 

Eupliorbia candelabrum, 91, 176. 
Felis caracal, 135. 
Francolinus adspersus, 50. 
Glossina morsitans, 468. 
Gryllas devastator, 281. 
Harelda glacialis, 32. 
Hippopotamus amphibius, 488, 489. 

" Liberiencis, 488. 

Holcus Caffrorum, 173. 
Hyrax Capensis, 291. 
Lanius subcoronatus, 78. 



Loxia socia, 104. 
Naia haje, 294. 
Oryx Capensis, 272. 
" beisa, 272, 
" leucoryx, 272. 
Otis kori, 135. 
Processus mamillaris, 4t;5. 
Python Natalensis, 290. 
Quercus Africana, 170. 
Khinoceris bicornis, 372, 373. 

" " Sumatrensis, 870. 

Indicus, 370. 
Keitloa, 372, 876. 
Oswellii, 372. 
" simus, 372, 373, 374. 

'' Sondaicus, 370. 

Textor eiythrorliynclius, 213. 
Tragelaphus Angasii, 433. 

" eurycerus, 433. 

Trimerorhinus rhombeatus, 294. 
Vipera inflata, 294. 



THE END. 



By William C. Prime, 



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